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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/real-estate-email-marketing/

Real estate email marketing

Emails have made it very easy for real estate agents to reach a large amount of people, and it has become a very common part of their business. Emails can be a tricky venture for anyone in any business, not because it is a complicated task, but because there are many things to keep in mind if you want to do it correct and effectively. The simple steps to performing a successful email campaign can be broken down into: 1. how you get the emails, 2. how you decide what to put in the emails, 3. how you go about sending the emails. Capturing emails- There are many avenues to get ahold of potential client’s emails. A pop-up box on your website or blog where visitors can sign up is great because then you know that they want to hear from you. You can also gather emails when going door to door to talk to home owners in the neighborhood and offer to send them useful information. You can use past clients in an email referral program and ask for them to provide the emails of people who they know that might be interested in your services. Some even opt for buying large email lists of people in a specific area. Whatever mix you use to capture emails, get creative so that people will be interested in receiving your email. Constructing emails- This is probably the most crucial step in an email campaign. One common mistake is that agents will send just a regular ad to their whole list, and they may do it once a month, or multiple times a month. If this is all that you are doing, eventually people on your list are going to stop opening your emails. There needs to be a good mix of useful information, interesting content, and different types of offers to keep people engaging with your emails. If they don’t interact with your emails, then you have lost their interest, and potentially their business. You also want to have a good design that looks professional and helps portray the overall message you are trying to send. Stay consistent so that your brand is recognizable but do not let it become boring. Switch things up every now and then so that it keeps them looking for what you are going to send next. Sending emails- This is the easiest of the three steps because there is a host of different email services that can handle your lists and send the different campaigns you run. You just have to find the right one that suits your needs best. Some even have templates that you can build your emails in making it easier for you. Make sure to check the reviews on the service and other details such as how large your list can be, how lists or emails are uploaded, and always test what their emails will look like in different email providers.

Once everything is in order you are ready to start planning your campaigns. Remember to keep things interesting for the people on your lists. Email marketing is something that must always be worked on and fine-tuned to be as effective as possible.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/posting-compelling-blog-content/

Posting compelling blog content

Blogs can be found all over the internet and can serve many different purposes. Most business have one, some use them as a personal website, and others see it as a medium to publish their thoughts and entertain readers. They have proven to be a very effective tool for real estate agents in particular, and have much to offer their clients. Sometimes, real estate blogs can be misunderstood, in that they have a lot more potential to benefit an agent, and some do not know in what ways to utilize them to their fullest extent. Many are told that you are supposed to publish listings on them, and maybe industry numbers or once in a while an interesting news article having to do with the housing market. These are all great things to have on a blog but this is not the only types of content that an agent can publish. First, what is the purpose of a blog? Well honestly a blog can have many purposes, but just to get right into it, a blog for a real estate agent should have some general goals:

a) Give yourself credibility

b) Client leads

c) Helping boost your site’s SEO

Let’s deal with your credibility. A blogging platform allows you to publish articles, photos, information, links, eBooks, and all sorts of other types of content. As you begin to build up content that is both relevant and interesting, there will be people that will look to your blog for information. Eventually, if you do well enough, you will become a recognizable voice in your industry or market area. Readers will realize that you know your stuff, and will gain their trust. BY gaining credibility, you automatically step into the next goal which is leads. At the end of the day, turning someone into a lead is what you want from your online presence; getting leads and making them into clients. Now that you’ve made your blog into a credible resource for many people, they will begin to look to you for information, you now have an opportunity reach out and get in touch with them. They know that if they have questions about buying or selling a house, they can come to you. Finally, your blog is going to help further optimize your website. If you want your site to rank high in a google search, your blog content is going to be a big factor in determining that. By posting great content that your readers interact with, Google looks at that and it sees a site that is worth visiting and will put it higher in its searches for terms relating to real estate and other keywords. This way you have a greater chance of new clients finding your website and converting them into sales. As you can see, all of these goals weave and work together to help your business to grow. The main thing is that if you are going to have a blog (and you should), then utilize it to its fullest potential.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/real-estate-branding-in-your-market-area/

Real estate branding in your market area

Real Estate branding is no simple task. Some believe all you have to do is put your face on a billboard and wrap your car with your logo and everyone is going to know you. Well, I’m sorry to say that it doesn’t work like that. Branding for any company takes time and effort, trying to get your image and message out to your market. You want your brand to be recognizable and trusted by those that become familiar with it. You can always go with the regular branding like mailers, flyers, pamphlets, and other things of this sort, but if you really want your brand to stand out, throw in some creative ideas as well.

What you can do:

Door to Door-Take time to walk the neighborhoods of your market. They need to see your face time and time again so that they can become familiar with you and what you do. Leave your flyers or business cars and talk to them about the market. You can even offer them resources that are good materials for home owners. If you want to get really creative then drop off cards and maybe small gifts for the holidays. Community events- If there is a city concert, or event in town then get involved. Have a booth that sales snacks or does games with prizes at the next school carnival. Keep your eyes open for any other opportunities in your area, like a local firework show for Independence Day. You want to become a recurring part of these events where people expect to see you there. They are great casual events to strike up conversations and build relationships. School activities- Schools have many activities such as sports, plays, rallies, etc. If you are the first one to step up and become a part of these events, you can become a sponsor or a main contributor to these activities. The school board and administrators will begin to know you and you can make connections with them and the families in your community. If you do it long enough, the children of these parents are going to grow up knowing you and may come to you when they are looking to buy their first house. Marketing material-As you begin to engage in these activities, and the community familiarizes itself with you, remember to include your logo and image on all marketing material at these events. Most don’t have a problem with doing this, but it is still imperative. Keep your material consistent from letterheads and envelopes to business cards and banners. The main point in branding is that you are able to be recognized by your target market and trusted as a good brand. It’s not just about plastering your image on as many flyers as you can and mailing them every month, but the people in your market need to get to know you and trust you. Getting involved in the community is a great a great way to accomplish this.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/how-to-manage-your-leads/

How to manage your leads

Many real estate agents would say that a lead is worth their weight in gold. Leads are what clients are made of and clients are what they are in business for. Agents go to extreme lengths to gather leads and use many different avenues to capture their interest. One question that comes to mind is, how does anyone successfully manage all of them? Leads are coming from email campaigns, mailers, through a website, word of mouth, and door knocking, plus a whole myriad of other creative ways. As they begin to build up, what is one to do to get the most out of them as possible? One thing that is absolutely necessary is following up on leads quickly. You should have something in place to coordinate all of your follow-up efforts. Whether it is a phone call or a pre-scheduled email, it should be done swiftly so that they can solidify you in their memory. Plan so that each lead can be get the same turnaround time, which will streamline your services. Whatever questions they have, get to them swiftly and provide a further follow up after doing so. The next thing to do would be to keep your leads updated as time goes by. For example, If someone were to contact you regarding selling their home. After speaking with you, they decide to wait if it looks like the market is going to be going up. You can keep them informed on the market statistics as time goes by. If it looks like the prices are falling, you can keep in touch where your overall message is that now is the time to sell. Now take the flip side, and if it looks like prices are rising, remind them that when they are ready to sell, that you’ll be ready to help them. You can do this with emails or postcards, and the point is to update them at the right time. Communication is key in real estate and the minimum number of times you need to communicate with a lead is 7. It may take less to convert them, but many marketing experts agree that 7 points of communication from you will allow them to remember you. First interaction is when they give you a call about buying a home. Next would be a follow up email thanking them for their call. Third would be a text saying you’re on the hunt for their home and for them to keep your fingers crossed. Fourth is a postcard sent to them, and so on. The whole point is that you need to shoot for at least 7 points of contact with a lead if you want them to remember you and eventually convert that lead. It would also be wise to keep a spreadsheet or some other record to keep track of where you are at with each lead. Effective management of each lead will put you on a path to conversions, and an overall successful business model.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/responsive-websites-for-real-estate-agents/

Responsive Websites For Real Estate Agents

If you are in real estate, then you know just how important having a website is. Almost every agent or broker has a website with their bio, accomplishments, and information about the area that they service. All to make a great first impression on potential clients that come across their page. What happens though, when someone finds your site on their phone and it looks as if all your images are larger than their screen? How about while looking on a tablet and everything is pushed into a single column? These visual problems, among others, are common to websites that are notresponsive. A Responsive Website is one that successfully adjusts to the change in screen size of the device that it is being viewed on. This is becoming extremely important as more and more web traffic is coming from mobile and tablet users. The last thing you want is for someone to leave your site because they were having trouble viewing it.

If you are looking to keep as many clients as possible, it is imperative that your website is responsive. Work with your developer to make it as responsive as possible to all sizes. If you manage the site on your own, check that the template or service you are using allows it to effectively respond to different screens. This is not only important for user experience but SEO as well. Here are some SEO benefits of a responsive website:

•           Retaining backlinks to a single site

•           Site is strengthened from less bounces

•           One site to focus all SEO efforts on

•           Google shows more search favor

As you can see, the benefits of a responsive site far outweigh not having one. Make this one of your top web marketing goals and watch the traffic begin to flow.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/relationships-referrals/

Relationships = Referrals

Referrals and relationships seem to go hand in hand, especially in real estate. In the marketing world, there are a series of steps that customers go through before finally reaching the place of referring the business or service. Step one is Brand Users, those who find the service and are going to give it a shot. Second is Regular Customers, who have found that the service is reliable and will come back again. Next is Loyalties, where they have realized the value of the service and are going to stick with it. Finally there are the Advocates, who are completely satisfied with the service and are actively telling others about it. That is the point that we want your clients to be at.

Everyone has their own “How-to” guide when it comes to getting referrals. They have their tips and what works for them, and elaborate on how it connects in their business model. With all these industry voices giving their opinion on such an important subject, how do you know which to listen to? What is it going to take for your clients to recommend other to you? For someone to take that step, it is going to take a lot of trust. So how can you build that trust and create a lasting relationship with your clients?

1. Stay in touch- even if your work with someone is finished, it is important to communicate with them. Any type of relationship will not be strong if there is a lack of communication. It could be as simple as a phone call to see if they’ve moved in all right, or a holiday or birthday card when it comes around

2. Stay Involved- If you are hosting a get-together or housewarming party, make sure to invite present and past clients. Take them out to dinner, or maybe invite them with you on an outing like a bonfire or barbeque. Being active with someone is a great way for relationship to solidify.

3.  Ask- once you’ve developed a relationship with your clients, at an appropriate time, go ahead and ask them for a referral. It could be in the middle of a conversation about their new home, or just by making a phone call. on

  If the relationship has developed enough, you may not have to ask and they may be your advocates already. For your past clients to say, “I have a friend in real estate” rather than “I know a real estate agent” can make a big difference. When contacting past clients, don’t just have referrals on your mind, but think of a relationship.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/fireplace-fuel-what-can-i-burn/

Fireplace Fuel: What Can I Burn?

Fireplaces and wood stoves are made to burn wood, and if you try to burn other things, these are some of the risks:

Harmful vapors can vent into the living space. 

Harmful vapors will vent to the outdoors.

Burning inappropriate fuel can cause mechanical damage. Chimneys can become lined with residue from inappropriate items, which may lead to a dangerous chimney fire.

  What can be burned in a fireplace?

Dried, cut firewood. Hardwoods, such as maple and oak, and softwoods, such as fir and pine. Softwoods ignite quickly and are useful to ignite the fire, while hardwoods provide a longer-lasting fire.

To dry out wood, it should be stacked in an open area so the sun can warm the pieces and the breezes can carry away the moisture. Poplar, spruce and other softwoods dry quickly, as do wood that has been split small. You can tell if the wood is dry if:

The wood has darkened from white or a cream color to yellow or grey.

There are cracks or checks in the end grain.

A hollow sound is produced when two pieces of wood are banged together.

You can split a piece and feel if the new surface is damp or dry.

The wood does not hiss while burning.

You can check its moisture content with a moisture meter.(should be less than 20%)

Pallets. Generally, pallets are safe to burn in fireplaces, except if they were treated with methyl bromide (labeled with the initials MB). Also, pallets may have been exposed to chemicals while they were in use. Check for nails while cutting pallets, they may damage a saw blade. You may also wind up with nails in your ash.

Fallen tree limbs. These can be collected and used, if they have been given time to dry.

Wood collected from housing developments. You can scavenge wood from housing developments, as long as it is not someone’s already(like the contractor).

Fire logs. These artificial logs burn cleanly and release less ash than their regular wood.

What should never be burned in a fireplace?

Painted wood. Paint contains things like  lead, chromium and titanium. These metals, especially lead, can be toxic even in small quantities if inhaled.

Pressure-treated wood. This one is really serious. Wood is commonly made resistant to fungus and insects through the addition of copper, chromate and arsenic, in a process known as CCA treatment. CCA treatment places roughly 27 grams of arsenic in every 12-foot 2×6, which is sufficient to kill about 250 adults, which is why it is illegal in the U.S. to burn pressure-treated wood. Vaporized CCA wood, known as fly ash, is extremely toxic; in one case, as reported by the American Medical Association, a family was stricken with seizures, hair loss, debilitating headaches, blackouts and nosebleeds from fly ash released when they unknowingly used CCA wood to burn in their fireplace. Even the family’s houseplants and fish succumbed to the toxic fumes.

Plywood, particleboard, chipboard or OSB. These man-made woods release formaldehyde, and potentially hydrochloric acid or dioxin, when burned. Some states have outlawed the incineration of some or all of these artificial wood products.

Rotted, diseased or moldy wood. Won’t burn long, smells terrible, and might bring insects. Plain and simple.

Damp wood. Wood that has a moisture content higher than 20% will not burn well and cause more creosote in the chimney, as well as air pollution.

Allergenic plants.  Urushiol, which is the chemical that induces the typically minor allergic reaction when skin is exposed to poison ivy, poison sumac or poison oak, is far more dangerous when inhaled. Urushiol is not destroyed by fire and can quickly cause life-threatening respiratory distress if any of these plants are burned.

Dryer lint. While it’s often used effectively as a fire-starter, lint can contain a wide array of dangerous chemicals that come from your clothes and fabric softener.

Trash. Never burn garbage, it may contain a lot of hazardous materials and chemicals that react in unpredictable ways when burned together.

Driftwood. Wood found on the beach or salty lake will release salt when burned, which will quickly corrode any metal and etch the glass of a wood stove or fireplace.

  We just have to remember that it is not safe to burn everything, and we must take caution as to the type of wood we use in our fireplace.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/porch-deck-patio-whats-the-difference/

Porch, Deck, Patio, What's the Difference?

Decks, porches, balconies, verandas and patios are outdoor architectural elements that are often confused with one another. They each have a specific intended use and design, but have similarities as well.

  Decks

A deck is a large, raised wooden floor attached to the back of a house, and usually has a railing. They can be covered, and usually have a rough or informal look that is not integrated with the rest of the house’s design. They are typically intended to be locations for outdoor activities like barbecues and parties. Access to the deck may be from the ground through a stairway, or from the house through a back door.

  Deck Facts:

The word “deck,” in this context, is generalized from decks on a ship.

The word “deck” originates from the Middle Low German word verdeck, meaning “covering.”

The first commercial boardwalk in the United States, which is considered a deck, was built in Atlantic City, New Jersey.

  Porches

  A porch is a wooden structure that forms a covered entrance to a doorway at ground level.  A porch is typically located at the front of the house.

  Porch Facts:  

Porches are often used as ante-rooms where muddy or wet clothes can be shed before entering the house.

The word “porch” originates from the Latin wordporta, which means “gate” or “entrance.”

While many houses in the southern United States, as well as Victorian-style houses, have large porches suitable for social gatherings, most modern porches are too small for comfortable social use, and  merely add to the visual appeal of the building.

Porches are typically integrated with the house’s architecture by using similar design elements.

  Balconies

  A balcony is a platform that protrudes from the wall of an upper floor of a building and is enclosed by a railing. Balconies are often highly decorative, and are not designed as social areas but, rather, add an outdoor ambiance to the indoors.

  Balcony Facts:

  In William Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Juliet famously courted Romeo from her balcony. The small balcony design typically associated with that scene is often referred to as a “Juliet balcony.”

Balconies can be large enough to resemble decks, but they do not provide access to the ground.

“Balcony” originates from the Italian word balcone, which means “large window.”

Balconies can be made from wood, iron, stone, and many other masonry materials.

  Verandahs

    A veranda is a long, roofed, open gallery built around a central structure and supported by pillars. Verandahs are often long enough to extend around the front and the sides of a structure. Their origins are uncertain, but they are known to be a hybrid of East Indian and European styles. The purpose of the verandah is social, although in a more relaxing, everyday sense than is the case of a deck or patio.

Verandah Facts:

  “Verandah” is alternately spelled “veranda.”

Verandah appears in Hindi and several other native Indian languages, although it appears to be an adaptation of the Portuguese and Spanish baranda.

Australia and New Zealand have their own unique style of verandah. Some verandahs in these countries are roof-like structures that surround commercial buildings, often on every floor. Their purpose is to provide protection from the sun.

  Patios

  A patio is typically a paved, roofless surface adjoining a residence that is generally intended for dining and recreation. These open-air living spaces are at ground level and are usually made from cement, stone, slate, or a combination of these materials.

Patio Facts:

“Patio” originates from the latin word patere, meaning “to lie open.”

“Patio” is Spanish for “backyard” or “back garden.”

In Australia, a patio often refers to any kind of outdoor verandah or balcony.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/my-homes-been-flooded/

My Home's Been Flooded!

If your house has been flooded, you need to take extra caution and make sure to have it checked out so that you can make any necessary repairs.

    Hazards in and around flood-damaged buildings include the risks of:

growth of large mold colonies;

septic system collapse;

trip-and-fall injuries;

structural collapse;

fire and explosions;

toxic sludge and materials containing waterborne bacteria; and

electrical shock hazards.

If you’ve experienced a disaster sized flood, then you may want to have an inspector check the home before entering. If you do accompany the inspector, or end up going in at your own risk, here are Safety Tips:

Watch out for downed power lines and gas leaks outside. Gas leaks will smell like rotten eggs. Call the utility company immediately if you think there is one.

When entering the building, see if the door sticks at the top. If it does, this could mean the ceiling is ready to collapse. After opening the door, stand outside the doorway, in case anything falls.

Wear sturdy, treaded boots. According to the American Red Cross, the most common injury following a disaster is cut feet. Broken bottles, nails, glass, and other dangerous objects may litter the floor, and stairs may be very slippery.

Once inside the home, check for gas leaks again. If you smell gas or hear a blowing or hissing noise, open a window and quickly leave the building. Turn off the gas at the outside main valve, if you can, and call the gas company from a neighbor’s home. If you turn off the gas for any reason, a professional must turn it back on. Never use an open flame inside of a flood-damaged house unless you know that the gas has been turned off and the house is ventilated. To inspect for damage, use a battery-powered lantern or flashlight, and not an open flame or electrical fixture in the house.

Do not use appliances that may have gotten wet unless you know they have been dismantled, cleaned and dried.

Do not go alone. Also, bring a cell phone or radio so you may call for assistance, if the need arises.

Bring a HEPA-rated respirator to use in case you detect extensive mold. If you are asthmatic or otherwise at heightened risk to mold exposure, leave the building. Other equipment, like gloves and coveralls, may also prevent contact with mold.

Look out for doors, walls, windows, floors and staircases to make sure that they don’t collapse.

Be weary of fire hazards, such as broken and leaking gas lines, flooded electrical circuits, and submerged furnaces and electrical appliances. Fire is the most frequent hazard in homes following floods.

Do not touch electrical system damage, such as broken and frayed wires, and burned insulation. You can turn off the electricity at the main fuse box or circuit breaker. If you have to step in water to get to the fuse box or circuit breaker, call an electrician first for advice. Electrical equipment should be inspected by a qualified professional and dried before being returned to service.

Inspect for sewage and water supply-line damage. If you suspect sewage lines have been damaged, avoid using the toilets and call a plumber. If water pipes are damaged, contact the water utility company and avoid operating the tap.

Watch out for animals, especially snakes, which may have been washed into the building during the flood. You can use a stick to poke through debris to check for dangerous critters.

Advice for Homeowners:

Food that has come into contact with floodwater may be contaminated and it must be thrown away.  Canned food may be salvageable if the can is not dented or damaged.

Sterilize water if it is of questionable purity. One easy way to do this is to boil it for at least five minutes. Water wells that may have been affected by floodwater should be pumped out and the water tested for purity before drinking.

Have exposed wires replaced by a qualified professional.

As much as possible, remove the mud and silt that has entered the home, both by shoveling and hosing the house down. Mud and silt contain sewage and chemicals from farms, factories, roads and buildings. Discard items, such as mattresses and wallboard, that may be contaminated by mud or silt.

Turn off the house’s electricity. Do this even if the power company has turned off electricity to the area.

Take pictures of the building and its contents for insurance purposes.

Although they are not that common in too many places here in Southern California, disaster sized floods still happen. With the recent rain, we can never be too careful, especially if this winter brings more storms.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/how-long-is-my-water-heater-going-to-last/

How Long is My Water Heater Going to Last?

While the typical water heater has a lifespan of about 10 years, there are factors that come into play that might help or hinder its useful lifespan. These factors include: correct installation; usage volume; construction quality; and maintenance.

Correct Installation

A water heater should generally be installed upright. Installing a water heater on its side will place  structural stress on it due to inadequate support for the heater and its pipes, and may cause premature failure.

Water heaters should be installed in well-ventilated areas — not just for fire safety requirements and nitrous-oxide buildup, but also because poor ventilation can shorten the lifespan of the water heater.

A water heater should not be placed in an area susceptible to flood damage. Water can rust out the exterior and pipes, decreasing the life expectancy and efficiency of the unit.  A water heater is best placed in an easily accessible area for maintenance.  It should also be readily visible for fire and health-hazard requirements.

Homeowners may install their own units to save money, but the installation of a tankless gas water heater, for example, requires more skill than the average DIY task.

Usage

The life expectancy of the water heater depends a great deal on the volume of water used. Using large quantities of water means that the water heater will have to work harder to heat the water. In addition, the greater the volume of water, the greater the corrosive effect of the water will be.

Construction Quality of the Water Heater

You get what you pay for in a water heater. Cheaper models will generally have a shorter lifespan, while more expensive models will generally last longer. A good indication of a water heater’s construction quality is its warranty.  Longer warranties naturally imply sounder construction. According to a 2007 Consumer Report that deconstructed 18 different models of water heaters, it was determined that models with longer warranties invariably were of superior manufacturing quality, with nine- and 12-year models typically having larger or higher-wattage heating elements, as well as thicker insulation. Models with larger heating elements have a much better resistance to mineral buildup or scum.

Pay attention to the model’s features.  Porcelain casing, for example, provides an additional layer of protection against rusting, and a greater level of heat insulation. Some models come with a self-cleaning feature that flushes the pipes of mineral deposits, which is an important consideration in the unit’s lifespan.  Models with larger or thicker anodes are better-equipped to fight corrosion.

Maintenance and Parts Replacement

The hardness of the water is another consideration when looking at estimating the lifespan of a water heater.  In areas where there is a higher mineral content to the water, water heaters have shorter lifespans than in other areas, as mineral buildup reduces the units’ efficiency. Even in areas where the water is softer, however, some mineral deposition is bound to occur.  A way to counteract this mineral buildup is to periodically flush the water heater system, which not only removes some of the buildup, but, in tank systems, the process heats the water in the tank. Higher-end models typically come equipped with a self-flushing feature.  In models for which manual flushing is required, it is important not to damage the water heater valve, which is usually made of plastic and is easy to break.

Although an older model may appear to be well-maintained, a question arises:  Is the maintenance worth it? Warranties often exclude labor costs, so a good rule to follow is that if the total repair cost per year is greater than 10% of the cost of buying and installing a new water heater, it is probably not worth replacing damaged parts.

It is debatable whether the cost in time and money of replacing the sacrificial anode in a water heater is worth the benefit of prolonging the use of the existing water heater by a couple of years. In the tricky process of emptying the tank and replacing the anode, it is easy to damage the unit, and, as some warranties can be voided by anode replacement, the cost of future repairs or maintenance that might otherwise be covered must be considered.

Beyond the basic telltale signs, such as a leaky puddle under the heater or cold showers in the morning that indicate that a new water heater is probably in order, the homeowner should consider the age and warranty of the model, and carefully weigh the cost-benefit of maintaining an existing heater versus buying a new one.

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New Post has been published on Get Inspector

New Post has been published on http://www.getinspector.com/blog/eminent-domain/

Eminent Domain

  Eminent domain is the right of a government to seize a citizen’s property without their consent but with monetary compensation. The property is taken either for government use or by commission to third parties for public use, or, in controversial cases, for economic development. Specific uses for seized property are typically for public utilities, highways, railroads, and for public safety.

  In the United States, eminent domain laws originated from the need during the late 18th century to assure compensation to homeowners whose houses were taken over by traveling armies. The Fifth Amendment of the United States Constitution insures this compensation, which also requires that land may be appropriated by the government only for “public use.”

Many laws maintain the long-held understanding that eminent domain is intended for the building of public works, not the promotion of private development. However, eminent domain is more often exercised by local and state governments that may enforce it. Some governments employ eminent domain for the benefit of private developers and other commercial interests on the basis that anything that increases the value of a given tract of land qualifies as “public use.”

    Eminent domain can also be used to seize blighted buildings from their owners. The definition of “blighted” varies by jurisdiction and can be overly vague, but it generally describes buildings that lack adequate ventilation, sanitation, electricity and utilities, or that pose a fire hazard, or are otherwise unsafe. In one case, whole slums were razed in southwest Washington, and the land was transferred to private developers to create condominiums, private office buildings and a shopping center. Even a non-blighted property was taken because it lay within the slum, and the courts decided that the redevelopment project could be judged as a whole, rather than on a parcel-by-parcel basis.

  Because blighted properties can be more easily seized, a home inspection performed by a qualified Eagle Eye Inspector can be used to inform homeowners of conditions that might cause a home to qualify as blighted.

    In summary, a homeowner has little say in whether their home can be taken through eminent domain, but periodic maintenance, regular inspections, and safety upgrades can make it more difficult for the property to be declared blighted and help ensure that��it maintains its full market value based on its condition.

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Electricity: Where Does it Come From, and How is it Priced?

 Electricity is generated from energy sources found in the environment, such as sunlight, coal and wind.

Houses themselves are, in effect, electrical devices, fed directly from utilities to power almost all appliances, from heaters to hair dryers. It is thus valuable for homeowners to have some understanding of where electricity comes from, what it powers, and what variables contribute to its costs.

Facts and Figures

The cost required to generate electricity varies minute by minute, reflecting its real-time demand throughout the day. Most consumers, however, pay rates based on average prices over long periods, saving them from volatile price fluctuations.

The national average electricity consumption for a U.S. residential utility customer was 11,040 kWh.

In 1879, the California Electric Light Company in San Francisco became the first company in the United States to sell electricity. They produced and sold enough electricity to power 21 lights.

Compared to other sources of energy, such as natural gas, households are predicted to become increasingly reliant on electricity over the next quarter-century. China, India and smaller developing Asian countries will experience the highest growth in demand as they switch from outmoded forms of energy.

The Three Gorges Dam in China is the world’s largest electricity-generating plant of any kind.

      How is Electricity Used in Homes?

According to national averages, electricity is consumed by American homes in the following distribution:

heating:  29%;

cooling:  17%;

water heating:  14%;

large appliances, such as refrigerators, dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers:  13%;

lighting:  12%;

other household appliances, including stoves, ovens and microwaves, and smaller appliances, such as coffee makers and dehumidifiers, power adapters, and ceiling fans:  11%; and

electronics, such as computers, TVs and DVD players:  4%.

Prices by State

Prices vary by location due to proximity to power plants and fuels, local fuel costs, and pricing regulations. The three states with the highest average prices for electricity in 2008 were:

Hawaii at 29.20¢ per kilowatt hour (kWh). Electricity prices are high in Hawaii because most of the electricity there is generated from petroleum;

Connecticut at 16.95¢ per kWh; and

New York at 16.74¢ per kWh.

States with the lowest average prices for the same year were:

West Virginia at 5.59¢ per kWh, which is a state that mines some of the country’s richest anthracite coal veins;

Wyoming at 5.68¢ per kWh, which has a large bituminous coal-mining industry, along with natural gas production; and

Idaho at 5.70¢ per kWh. Electricity in Idaho is inexpensive because of the availability of low-cost hydroelectric power from federal-owned dams.

What Raw Materials Go Into Producing Electricity?

Electricity consumed in homes and businesses in the United States is generated from the following sources:

coal, which produces 44.9 % of all power in the U.S.  Along with water, coal was used in the first power plants, and it remains the cheapest known raw material used to produce electricity. Rhode Island has no coal-generated electricity, while Wyoming’s electricity is 94.5% coal-derived.

  natural gas, which accounts for 23.4% of the country’s total power. For an equivalent amount of heat, burning natural gas produces significantly less carbon dioxide than burning coal or petroleum.

  Nuclear power, which produces 20.3% of all power used in the U.S., is a sustainable energy source because it releases no greenhouse gases, although opponents are concerned about security and waste disposal.

  hydroelectric power, which has 6.9% of the nation’s share. Worldwide, hydroelectricity accounts for 20% of all electricity generated, and nearly all power produced by renewables in general. While touted as producing no direct waste and requiring few personnel on site at dams during normal operation, some of the most deadly manmade disasters have been caused by dam failures used for hydroelectric power generation.

other renewables:  3.6%. Generation of electricity from the sun, wind, and other renewable sources has been constrained by technological limitations and stalled by local politics, although this sector is growing rapidly. Maine receives more than 26% of its electricity from renewable energy sources, while Tennessee receives almost none.

  petroleum produces the least, at 1%. While it meets nearly half of the U.S.’s energy needs, petroleum is rarely used to generate electricity.

  Other countries have significantly different electricity source profiles. France, for instance, generates almost all of its electricity using nuclear power.

  In summary, electricity is produced from a number of different sources, each with its own upsides, and financial and environmental costs.

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"Cool" Energy-Efficient Roofs

Cool roofs, also known as reflective roofs, are roof surfaces designed to reflect radiation from the sun, reducing heat transfer into the building.

    How do they differ from regular roofing products?

Unlike most North American asphalt roofs, cool roofs are specifically engineered to reflect the sun’s energy back into space instead of transferring it as heat into the building. The two basic characteristics that determine the performance of a cool roof are solar reflectance and thermal emittance. Both properties are rated on a scale from 0 to 1, where 1 is the most reflective or emissive. Although there is no industry-wide definition of a cool roof, the EPA’s Energy Star Roof Products Program has established a minimum standard, requiring that cool roof products have an initial reflectance of at least 0.65, and a reflectance of at least 0.5 after three years of weathering. By contrast, conventional asphalt roofs have a reflectivity of between 0.06 and 0.26, resulting in large amounts of heat transfer into the building’s interior.

The use of cool roof products offers the following benefits:

increased lifetime of roofing materials. Cool roofs do not experience thermal cycling as much as regular roofs. Thermal cycling can deteriorate the bond between shingles and asphalt, potentially causing premature failure;

  energy savings. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, some reflective roof products can lower roof surface temperature by up to 100 degrees and can reduce peak cooling demand by as much as 15%. Cool roofs may result in increased heating costs during the winter, but this increase is greatly outweighed by the cooling energy savings achieved during summer;

  reduction of the “heat island” effect. This is the tendency for metropolitan areas to be warmer than their surroundings due to the use of building materials that retain heat. Studies have shown that this phenomenon increases the risk of death during heatwaves and decreases air quality by increasing the production of pollutants, such as ozone;

  lower peak electrical demand. The maximum energy load an electric utility experiences in order to supply customers instantaneously, which generally occurs in late afternoons during summer as businesses and residences turn up their air conditioners, is reduced by the implementation of reflective roofs; and

  utility rebates, in some areas. Generally, utilities pay back a certain percentage — usually about $0.20 per dollar — after installation and documentation. Their motivation for these incentives is to reduce the intensity and likelihood of blackouts and brownouts.

  Cool Roof Product Types

The products generally fall into a few categories:  single-ply materials, and coatings. Single-ply materials are large sheets of pre-made roofing that are mechanically fastened over the existing roof, and then sealed at the seams. Coatings are applied using sprays, rollers or brushes over an existing clean, leak-free roof surface. “Cool” versions of asphalt shingles are also available.

These products include:

Coatings:  Roof coatings can be divided into two categories: field-applied and factory-applied. Field-applied coatings are applied directly onto the roof surface, either on a new roof assembly or over an existing roof surface (and can be applied over the top of just about anything, as long as the correct coating is selected). Factory-applied coatings are applied during the manufacturing process. Examples of factory-applied coatings include coatings applied to metal, and glazes that are applied to tiles.

  Single-Ply:  Single-ply roofing is laid down in a single layer over a low or steep-sloped roof. The single-ply membrane can be loose-laid and weighted down with ballast or pavers, or firmly set on the roof and attached with mechanical fasteners or adhesives. Single-ply thermoplastic is a flexible sheet membrane which consists of compounded plastic polymers. When heat is applied onto the surface, the single-ply thermoplastic seams are melded together, making the material seamless and effective. Most thermoplastics are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, such as polyester or fiberglass, for additional durability and strength. There are various types of single-ply thermoplastic, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO). PVC tends to be more expensive than TPO, but PVC is well-known for long-term performance and is naturally fire-retardant. TPO is a blend of polymers that can contain flame-retardants or UV absorbers.

  Asphalt Shingles:  Although a challenging technical issue, some manufacturers have created dark-colored asphalt shingles that look almost identical to conventional shingles, yet they qualify as cool roof products. They accomplish this feat through the use of engineered pigments that reflect high amounts of invisible wavelengths, namely, infrared.

    In summary, cool roofs are coatings and sheets that are applied to roofs to make them reflect the sun in order to keep building’s interior cooler and more energy-efficient, which is especially important during summer months and in warmer climates.

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Earthquakes are a serious threat to life and property not just in California, but in many parts of the United States. Catastrophic earthquakes are rare, but even minor ones can cause damage to homes that are not properly reinforced.

    Homeowners significantly decrease the probability that their homes will be adversely affected by a seismic event if these weak spots have been identified and addressed before an earthquake strikes.

  Facts and Figures

Although 45 states are subject to a great deal of damage from earthquakes, California is especially prone due to the location of many active fault areas in the state.

Shaking ground accounts for 99% of earthquake-related damage to residences. Other earthquake-related events, such as fault ruptures, liquefaction of soil, dam failure, lateral spreading, landslide, and tsunami account for the remaining 1% of damage.

    Potential Hazards

Natural gas connections may rupture or break during an earthquake, which, if ignited by an spark, could result in gas leaks, fire and/or explosion.

Full water heaters typically weigh approximately 450 pounds. Unbraced water heaters may fall over during an earthquake and rupture water, gas and/or electrical connections, resulting in an electrical or fire hazard.

Homes that are not properly secured to their foundations or that do not have sturdy foundations may break loose and cause gas connections to rupture and a subsequent fire hazard. Older concrete foundations are at a higher risk because the concrete may have already started to crumble and weaken over time. Homes built on unenforced concrete, brick or stone masonry foundations are also at a higher risk.

Stud walls holding up a home’s crawlspace that are not properly braced for horizontal movement may fail, causing a home to fall.

Homes that are built on steep slopes may collapse if the posts that support them are not properly braced.

Walls that are constructed out of unenforced clay, concrete, stone, adobe or brick masonry may fail in an earthquake because the mortar that binds them together is typically not strong enough to sustain seismic activity.

Rooms that are built over garages may collapse during an earthquake because the strength of the walls in the vicinity of the opening of the garage door is reduced.

Unenforced masonry chimneys may collapse during an earthquake. The section above the roof line is particularly at risk, and bricks may fall into the home.

Heavy furniture, shelving and appliances that are not anchored may become dislodged during an earthquake and can cause damage or injury, or can block an emergency exit for people trying to escape.

Windows may shatter during an earthquake and can cause injury.

Toxic substances that are stored in breakable containers may spill during an earthquake and cause a hazard.

  Safety Measures

Any appliances in the home that run on natural gas should be securely anchored to the floor or walls.

Water and gas pipes should be flexible to prevent ruptures and leaks.

If no automatic gas shutoff valve is installed, the manual gas shutoff valve should be in a location that is accessible to occupants in the event that they need to shut it off quickly.

Shutoff valves should be tagged/labeled.

Cement foundations should not be seriously cracked or crumbling.

Homes should be securely bolted to the foundation.

Wood stud walls supporting the first floor should be braced with plywood panels nailed to the studs or diagonal wood sheathing.

Freestanding water heaters should be braced with steel plumber’s tape or with metal straps attached to wall studs.

Braces or plywood panels should surround and reinforce garage doors that are not in line with the rest of the house.

Masonry foundations and walls should be strengthened with steel reinforcement.

Columns and walls that support homes on hillsides should be adequately braced.

There should be sheet metal straps and angle bracing installed to hold the unenforced masonry chimney to the house. Plywood panels should be present at the ceiling or roof to prevent bricks from falling into the home.

Children’s’ play areas should be located away from the chimney.

Large appliances and furniture inside the home should be secured to the walls or floor with flexible cable, braided wire or metal strapping.

Heavy objects or mirrors should be installed away from beds.

Cabinets that contain heavy or breakable objects should be secured with sliding bolts or childproof latches on the doors.

Hazardous materials should be kept in non-breakable containers and stored securely away from heat sources and appliances.

  The extent of damage caused by an earthquake is typically more substantial if a home has not been prepared for an earthquake before it strikes.  Homeowners can take appropriate measures by having their homes inspected annually by an Eagle Eye inspector.

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Choosing a Manufactured Home

Depending on the size of your home site, you can choose from single-section or multi-section designs. Homes range in size from 900 to 2,500 square feet and can be customized to your needs and preferences.

Here are some important questions to consider when choosing your manufactured home.

  What features are available?

   The interior design of your home can include many of the custom features available in a conventional home. Because most manufacturers use computer-assisted design, you’ll have flexibility in choosing variations of floor plans and décor. You can also choose from a variety of exterior designs, depending on your taste and budget. Exterior siding comes in different colors and materials, including metal, vinyl, wood and cementitious sidings, which are virtually fireproof. Awnings, enclosures around the crawlspace, patio covers, decks and steps also are available.

  How much can I expect to pay for a home?

   Depending on the size, floor plans and any custom features, a new home can cost anywhere from $15,000 to more than $100,000. This price doesn’t include the property on which it sits.

  What financing options are available?

  Your retailer usually can provide information about financing. You can also check with lenders in your area. Just as there are choices when you buy a site-built home, there are a variety of financing options when you buy a manufactured home. Down payments and loan terms are similar to conventional loans (5% to 10% of the manufactured home’s sales price), and loan terms from 15 to 30 years. Most lenders offer fixed- and variable-rate loans, and most have programs that allow you to “buy the rate down.” If you own or plan to purchase the land where you will place your home, traditional mortgage financing can often be arranged.

  What other costs can I expect to pay?

  While your mortgage payment may be your biggest expense, you’ll have other regular and periodic payments which will vary with your circumstances. Regular expenses may include utilities, property taxes, land rental fees, insurance, routine maintenance, and other service fees, such as water and sewer. Today’s manufactured homes are built to meet new national energy standards set by HUD. The energy-conserving features found in manufactured homes help reduce monthly energy costs.

How much maintenance will my home need?

  Your homeowner’s manual outlines maintenance requirements, and it’s important that you follow them. Failure to follow them could void your warranty, as well as erode the value and shorten the lifespan of your home. Additional maintenance, systems and safety information can be provided by an Eagle Eye inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

  What warranty coverage is offered on the home, its transportation, and its installation?

  All manufacturers offer a written warranty that should cover:

structural workmanship;

factory-installed plumbing, heating and electrical systems;

factory-installed appliances, which also may be covered by separate warranty; and

appliance manufacturer warranties.

  There are important differences among warranties. For example, manufacturer warranties usually do not cover installation (also called “set-up”) and transportation of the home, although you may be able to get this coverage through the retailer or installation contractor. Although you may never need such warranty services, it’s a good idea to check the coverage on any warranties offered before you buy.

Eagle Eye Property Inspectors know where to look for defective work. Whether you’re buying an existing home or considering a new home, allow the inspector to use his/her special knowledge to help protect you by finding defects while the home is still under warranty, and before they cause damage or injury to you or your family.

  Where can I locate my home?

  Many homes are placed on privately-owned property. If this option appeals to you, find out about zoning laws, restrictive covenants, and utility connections. Your retailer can give you more information. Another option is to place your home in a land-lease community specifically designed for manufactured homes. Here, you own the home but lease the land. Placing your home in a land-lease community involves fewer siting considerations, such as utility connections. A third option is buying the home and land together in a planned subdivision where siting issues are handled by the developer.

  May I move my home?

  Yes, but it’s not a common scenario. The transportation of a home can place considerable stress on its structure and components. Nevertheless, if you do plan to move your home in the future, make sure you check with the appropriate state authorities about transportation and zoning regulations. States have restrictions on weight, size and width that may prevent you from moving your home. If you relocate, make sure you use a professional transporter; never try to move the home yourself. It’s also important to check the climate zone maps for your home. These maps tell you the wind, snow and thermal zones for which your home was constructed. Use them to determine whether your home is suitable for the new location you’re considering.

  The actual overall costs connected with moving are another consideration. In addition to transport expenses, which include licensing fees to take your home through a state, you’ll have to pay for a new foundation, installation, and utility hook-ups.

  If you want more information on manufactured homes, you can check with the Department of Housing and Urban Development

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Disadvantages of Solar Energy

While the advantages offered by solar energy move some to ignore the flaws it does have, these imperfections must be acknowledged. We should take an honest look at the disadvantages of solar energy, so that it can be refined and perfected over time.

  The most significant complaints with solar energy are:

lack of consistency and reliability. Solar systems rely on the steady absorption of sunlight. The following factors limit the availability of sunlight:

  latitude. Although solar power is an option almost anywhere on the planet, the farther you are from the equator, the less power from the sun you will receive.

clouds. Clouds diminish the power of solar panels, especially in foggy or overcast regions.

night. no sun, no solar power.

  size. To power an entire building, a large solar array is required. Unfortunately, we have to build large arrays to compensate for inefficient single panels.

  panel deterioration. Like anything else left out in the sun, solar panels gradually become damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Rain, snow, dirt, temperature , hail and wind also cause wear and tear over time.

  cost.  The number of solar array panels needed to capture energy for an entire home typically costs tens of thousands of dollars, making the electricity they produce cost more than the conventional power sources. Local and state government subsidies and tax credits help, but they just divert the financial burden to taxpayers. Also the expansive battery banks needed for solar arrays are typically not covered under the warranty for the panels. They also don’t last as long as the panels, and it may cost $100 or more for each battery’s replacement.

  environmental pollutants. A few of the more notorious substances contained in panels and associated equipment include:

  cadmium. When sealed inside solar panels, cadmium is harmless. If leaked from the panel, cadmium can inflict serious environmental damage. Panels must be disposed of with extreme care in order to keep it from leaking into soil and water.

lead. Batteries are required by solar arrays to ensure a constant supply of electricity. They contain lead and sulfuric acid, which are both highly toxic, especially to marine creatures. Lead has been found to cause a number of impairments in children, including developmental disabilities. However, most of the material in dead batteries is recoverable if the batteries are recycled, as long as consumers make the effort.

  roof considerations. Solar arrays are often installed on building roofs to make use of the large, empty, sunny space. As a consequence, repairs to the underlying roof become quite tricky and often require disassembly of the solar installation before even routine roof maintenance can be performed. It’s good practice to perform needed roof work before the initial installation of a solar system to prevent future headaches.

  appearance. Like it or not, solar arrays speak loudly, and neighbors and passersby will take notice of the systems. Many homeowners are understandably reluctant to install a large solar array on an otherwise attractive tile roof.

  This is in no way here to say that solar energy is bad, because right now there are many studies being done to minimize each of these disadvantages. But, we did want to point these out to people who might be unaware of solar energy’s drawbacks.

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Closing Costs

When a home is sold, there is a point in the transaction known as the closing, when the title to the property is transferred to the new owner. The buyer and/or seller commonly incur miscellaneous fees, which are collectively known as closing costs.

Take a look at the following guide to get a better idea of what buyers and sellers are expected to pay upon closing:

inspection fees. Lenders may require a termite inspection or an analysis of the structural condition of the property in order to assure that a home will be reliable collateral to secure against a loan. An inspection of the septic system and water supply tests may also be required in rural areas. Always be sure to hire an Eagle Eye Inspector to get the most out of an inspection.

  points. This one-time, prepaid interest is paid by the buyer to the lender as a way to reduce the rate of interest on the mortgage loan. One point equals 1% of the loan’s principal. For example, one point on a $200,000 loan is $2,000. If the borrower plans to live in the home for a long time, it might be to his advantage to negotiate for more points. Points can be financed by adding them to the loan, or they may be paid upfront and deducted from the current year’s income taxes.

  title search fees. This one-time fee is used by buyers and lenders to make sure that the seller legally owns the property, and that the property has no outstanding liens or restrictions for use of which the buyer is unaware. If divorces, contested wills or court judgments are discovered during the title search, future complications can be avoided. Anyone may perform a title search, but borrowers commonly hire an attorney or title company to perform a thorough search.

  title insurance. Title insurance policies are purchased to protect the lender against an error in the results of the title search, which would otherwise endanger the lender’s investment in the borrower’s mortgage. In case the title is challenged in court, title insurance will reimburse the insured up to a predetermined dollar amount.

  appraisal fees. Lenders want to be assured that the property to be purchased is worth at least as much as the amount of the loan. An appraisal, performed by a licensed professional appraiser, will determine the fair market value of the property. The requirement of an appraisal may be waived if one has been performed recently.

  recording fees. These are paid to the clerk and recorder’s office of the county where the property is located for the service of entering an official record of the change of a property’s ownership.

  homeowners association (HOA) dues. If the property is part of an HOA, the buyer will need to cover, in advance, the requisite fees for the part of the remaining year that they will own the property.

  loan origination fee. This umbrella charge covers the evaluation and preparation of the loan, which may include fees charged by the lender’s attorney or notary. The total cost can be several thousand dollars, although it can be reduced somewhat by a larger down payment.

  prepaid interest. While the new homeowner’s first mortgage payment may not be due for some time after closing, interest starts accruing immediately after closing. For instance, if the deal closes on October 11th, the homeowner will owe interest for the 20 days preceding the first mortgage payment.

  prepaid property insurance. Lenders typically require that the first year’s premiums of property insurance be paid in advance.

  property survey fee. A survey is performed of the lot and its structures to confirm the deed’s legal description of the property,  including the property’s dimensions, and to check for encroachments, and verify that the house and other structures are where the seller says they are.

  application fee. This cost covers the assessment of the buyer’s credit report and the initial processing fee of the mortgage loan. The cost is several hundred dollars.

  property taxes. Like HOA fees, buyers must pay upfront the share of the property taxes for which they are proportionally responsible.

  Tips for Reducing Closing Costs

Home buyers short on cash can roll the closing costs into the mortgage loan. It is also possible for the lender to pay the closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate.

Choose a closing date that’s near the end of the month, as this will save money on prepaid interest.

Negotiate with the seller of the property to help pay for some of the closing costs.

In summary, closing costs include a variety of miscellaneous fees paid by the home buyer and/or seller.