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Le Sommelier blog December 2016

The timeless magic of Champagne! The GIFT EDIT, PRESENT and correct, CULTURE, Loulou, a resolutely epicurean spirit, Savoie faire

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WINE REVIEW

The timeless magic of Champagne!

Fois gras, caviar, oysters, crayfish…all benefit from being accompanied by champagne: the festive season at the end of the year is a good excuse for indulging in excess and pleasure. It’s always a magical moment to which an excellent cuvée obviously lends the defining touch. To thank ones hosts or to delight ones guests, one chooses a champagne of distinction, to sparkle all night. So… happy festivities!

 CHAMPAGNE BILLECART-SALMON, Brut Rosé NV

For many fans, the rosé Champagne Billecart-Salmon is THE rosé of excellence for all special occasions. Trade secrets and the vinification method of this wine go back to the origins of the house and have been passed down for seven generations. It is the result of a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. With a pale pink colour and golden reflections, subtle aromas, elegant mouth and light bubbles, this sublime pink champagne certainly delights! Perfect with blinis with caviar, crab terrine or Rocamadour and Tomme de Brebis. www.champagne-billecart.fr

 CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ, Blanc de Blancs, 2009

Champagne Deutz Blanc de Blancs is a beautiful vintage which slowly develops. The pale colour is highlighted by light copper notes, the nose combines white flowers and cherry-plums, the mouth is frank and pure, with scents of ripe white fruit enlivened by citrus notes, integrated into a creamy bubble. The full and lively final lengthens with a subtle hint of brioché Excellent with verrines of salmon, orange blossom crème brulée or a Beaufort. www.champagne-deutz.com

 CHAMPAGNE DOM PÉRIGNON, 2006

If it were necessary to use only one word to describe the champagne of Dom Pérignon, it would undoubtedly be "precision". This proves true throughout the vintages and the 2006 does not deviate from the rule. This new vintage brings floral and fruity notes to the nose, with a touch of liquorice. The palate is succulent and the finish is saline and fresh. Quite exquisite! Wonderful with lobster soufflé, praline Bûche de Noël or a dry goats cheese. www.domperignon.com

CHAMPAGNE G.H MUMM, Brut Sélection

Cuvée Brut Sélection celebrates the motto of Georges Hermann Mumm: "Only the best". It incarnates the expression of diversity and the nobility of the Grands Crus Champagne that the House has acquired since 1840. Its yellow colour is open and lively, with golden shades; this champagne reveals a wide range of fresh aromas, tangy (tangerine, lemon) and honeyed notes. The aromatic richness evolves to aromas of white flowers, vanilla and white fleshy fruits, before revealing a touch of toasted nuts. Feeling of freshness joins beautifully with fine flavours giving the wine an opulent texture. Superb with Foie Gras on toasted brioche, smoked salmon millefeuilles or Cabécou. www.mumm.com

 CHAMPAGNE LOUIS ROEDERER, Brut Premier

Louis Roederer’s Brut Premier asserts at once its personality and seduction: the texture is ample, fleshy and integrates quite unexpectedly mature characters and vinosity with fruity and refreshing notes. Complete, complex, both modern and powerful while remaining a classic. Fantastic with crispy aumonière (thin crêpe pastry) of scallop, mirabelle plum tart or Vacherin. www.louis-roederer.com

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LIFESTYLE

The GIFT EDIT

Welcome to our edit of the season’s most cutting-edge designs. From smartphones and action cameras to headphones and fitness accessories, Le Sommelier explores a broad range of gadgetry to delight friends and family this festive season.

FITBIT Alta fitness wristband

Fitbit’s mission is to inspire users to lead a more active life and achieve health goals. The Fitbit Alta is made to fit users’ wrists and personal style with a choice of interchangeable straps in black, plum, teal and blue. The Fitbit Alta helps users stay motivated by tracking all-day activity and gives credit for workouts with Smart Track automatic exercise recognition. www.fitbit.com

LEICA Sofort instant camera

Introducing the Leica Sofort, created by the camera brand of choice for street-style photographers. The lightweight and compact camera combines technical expertise with the fun of instant photography, and is available in a choice of three colours: orange, mint and classic white. www.uk.leica-camera.com 

BEATS Solo3 Wireless Headphones

Combining fine-tuned acoustics that maximise clarity, breadth and balance with wireless Bluetooth technology, the Beats Solo3 Wireless headphones come in an array of trend-led colours, meaning fashion-conscious music lovers can match their headphones to their clothes. The Solo3 headphones last up to 40 hours and with the help of patented Fast Fuel technology, offer three hours of playback from just five minutes of charge.

MONSTER 24K Backfloat speaker

Founded in 1979 by Noel Lee, Monster has become synonymous with the creation of high-performing, consumer friendly sound solutions. Featuring shock-and-splash-proof Pure Monster Sound technology, the new 24K Bluetooth Backfloat speaker has been designed for active lifestyles. The new technology can float, has one-touch Bluetooth pairing, powerful sound and a microphone for crystal-clear calls. www.monsterproducts.com

MICROSOFT Surface Pro 4

With a mission to help business and people throughout the world realise their full potential, Microsoft is pleased to introduce its most advanced two-in-one ever.

The Microsoft Surface Pro4 is demonstrates design like never before. 1,024 levels of pressure sensitivity offer exceptional precision, giving you a new way to edit and design. Users can select, sketch, and manipulate drawings easily with Surface Pen. Surface Pro 4 adapts to the way you work, whether you are writing at home or in a café. Detach the screen from the keyboard to convert it from a laptop into a portable clipboard. Or rotate the screen and reattach it to use it like a creative canvas.

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TRENDING

PRESENT and correct

Looking for a special gift to make a lasting impression? Take your pick from our inspired selection.

Lucky seven

It’s now used as shorthand for romance, but the rose has been rich in symbolism since ancient times. In Renaissance art, it stood for rebirth; in Roman culture, it represented secrecy and was the flower of Venus, goddess of love. Bee Goddess – a brand that specialises in spiritual jewellery – riffs on the seven-petal rose for its Rosa Mundi collection. The pieces represent love, unity, protection and good luck. www.beegoddess.com

Bulgari

With Christmas just round the corner, Bulgari has launched a series of festive bags with delicate metal work. The quilted Scaglie bag echoes the snake scales of its Serpenti collection. www.bulgari.com

OLIVIA VON HALLE

Bedtime needn’t be a reason to dress down, especially if Olivia von Halle is involved. Get pyjama party-ready with this smooth silk-satin pyjama set. www.oliviavonhalle.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

The modest plimsoll has been given a plush overhaul by the Italian house, whose Triple Stitch slip-on sneakers come in dramatic inky-hued velvet. www.zegma.co.uk 

CHANTECAILLE

Walks in lush Brazilian jungles and along untamed beaches – that’s the essence bottled in the white floral scent of Le Wild eau de parfum. www.chantecaille.com

INSIDE information

Some things have to be seen to be believed – such as the mechanical mastery that powers a Maurice Lacroix timepiece. A titan in the field of skeletonised watches, the brand has never kept its time-honoured craftsmanship under wraps. Its latest launch Masterpiece Skeleton, available in three limited-edition models, adds contemporary aesthetics into the mix. As well as affording the wearer a view of its working, the watch also features a black PVD case. www.mauricelacroix.com

FREDERIC MALLE

Created in France by Mr Jean-Claude Ellena, Frederic Malle's 'L'Eau d'Hiver' Eau de Toilette is "composed like a watercolour", fluidly balancing warm and cool accords. This unique fragrance opens with zingy Hedione, followed by soft notes of White Heliotrope and Iris. It has smooth Honey at its heart, making for a subtle scent that will linger all day. www.fredericmalle.com

TATEOSSIAN

Tateossian’s rhodium-plated brass cufflinks are meticulously made to resemble vintage watch movements - each pair has 17 round jewels and cut-out sides that allow to examine the artful craftsmanship even further. A perfect gift for a horology aficionado or engineer. www.tateossian.com  

Belt by ANDERSON

Each Anderson's belt is tanned for up to six months and hand-polished using natural wax. This timeless brown leather design has been intricately woven in Parma, Italy, and is finished with a brass buckle. Wear yours to complement casual attire. www.selfriges.co.uk

MISSONI cardigan

Cold weather calls for cosy knits, like this expertly crafted cardigan from Italian powerhouse Missoni. Spun from an incredibly plush and insulating wool, alpaca and cashmere-blend, it has a comfortable shawl collar and bold ram intarsia - a nod to the brand's colour-coded DNA. Wear it zipped up to ward off biting chills. www.missoni.com

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CULTURE

Diary December 2016

Dance, Exhibition, Film, Theatre and a new gallery in Mayfair.

DANCE Up & Down

F Scott Fitzgerald’s last and, some would say, greatest novel, Tender Is The Night, is adapted into captivating and sensual ballet by maverick Russian choreographer Boris Eifman. Set in the Jazz Age, the story follows troubled therapist Dick Diver as he is drawn ever deeper into the fragile mind of his beautiful patient, heiress Nicole. Psychology segues into seduction as the stark confines of the lunatic asylum are transformed into the vibrant environment of a jazz club. See Eifman Ballet’s dancers, in lavish costumes, act out a paean to the pleasures of a most decadent era, to the strains of George Gershwin and the lush melodies of Franz Schubert. Until 10th December at the London Coliseum

FILM Collateral beauty

From David Frankel, director of The Devil Wears Prada, comes this moving tale of an ad executive, Howard (Will Smith), who stars writing letters to the universe, seeking answers after his daughter dies. Replies come in the shape of Keira Knightley as Love, Helen Mirren as Death and Naomie Harris as Time, all with wisdom to impart – if only he would listen. A modern fable with a message for anyone who has questioned the meaning of it all. Opens on 30th December in the UK

THEATRE King Lear

How we’ve missed the brilliance of Glenda Jackson since the two-time Oscar-winner switched careers in the early ‘90s to become a politician. Now, after she let Parliament last year, we face the enthralling prospect of an actor of true genius returning to the stage. At 80, Jackson is set to play King Lear, one of the great Shakespearean roles, applying her fearsome energy to overcome the challenges of a woman playing a man’s role. Co-starring Celia Imrie, Jane Horrocks and Rhys Ifans, and directed by Deborah Warner, this production looks set to be one of the most talked-about of the season. Until 2nd December at The Old Vic

 EXHIBITION

The Vulgar: Fashion redefined

It’s “excess” all areas in this exhibition of the most colourful, eye-catching and plain outrageous fashion items of the past three centuries – all to explore that most loaded of terms, “vulgar”. John Galliano’s creations for Dior sit alongside the 10ft-wide mantua skirts of the 1700s in a line-up featuring Vivienne Westwood, Moschino, Prada and Milliner Stephen Jones, all conjured up by psychoanalyst Adam Phillips and curator Judith Clark. Until 5th February at the Barbican

 Fear and Love: Reactions to a complex World

Welcome to the latest must-see destination for lovers of great design. Less than six months after its old site by the Thames shut down, the Design Museum is reborn in Kensington with a wholly revamped building to usher in a very different era for the gallery. Back on display goes the arresting permanent collection in which road signs, the Sony Walkman and even a Kalashnikov rifle jostle for space. But there’s also the exciting prospect of a new generation of provocative exhibitions, beginning with Fear and Love: Reactions to a Complex World, which features specially commissioned installations that look to the future in our fast-changing society. From 24th November at the Design Museum

 BOOK Swing Time

In her latest novel, Zadie Smith, author of superb” White Teeth”, tells the tale of two London girls in the ‘90s, both of whom dream of making it as a dancer. But only one has the talent to take her to the top, while the other must settle for being a PA to a pop star. Switching between Europe and Africa, and certain to be steeped in Smith’s distinctive wit, this will be one of the landmarks books of 2016 and a likely contender for the next Man Booker Prize.

 A new gallery in London

Art lovers can now head to the new gallery Kamel Mennour in London located in Mayfair. Pierre Yovanovitch has signed the interior design of this new space after realising 28 Avenue Matignon. The 51 Brook Street welcomes a specific programming in relation to the three Parisian galleries. We love the atmosphere of London apartment with curved windows, mahogany flooring, beautiful white walls and a bench nestling in one of the alcoves. www.hamelmennour.com

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GASTRONOMY

Loulou, resolutely epicurean spirit

A location out of the ordinary, a new décor signed by the very Parisian architect Joseph Dirand and a gastronomy humming in Italian, the new restaurant of the Museum of Decorative Arts is quite appealing. With a terrace set between Le Louvre and La Concorde it is hard to find one more attractive!

Les Arts Decoratifs benefits from a breathtaking vista, looking out onto the museum’s verdant grounds. Its restaurant, Loulou, does too, which is one of the reasons acclaimed interior architect Joseph Dirand agreed to design it, transforming the existing Saut du Loup restaurant into a buzzy new nightspot that opened earlier this year.

“I wanted the rooms to feel as if they belong in the museum, as though I was reconstructing the home of a collector.”

To set about designing his second “museum restaurant”, Joseph Dirand focused immediately on the change of context, with Loulou’s connection to a museum of decorative arts, a clear starting point for the project. “The restaurant had to feel like an object itself and pay homage to its surroundings.”

“I wanted to balance a masculine and feminine attitude, but more specifically a masculine interior that is a tribute to women. This is why the work of Carlo Mollino came to mind – also the size and format of the various spaces already had the feeling of functioning like a small house.”

That Franco-Italian mix of past decades has produced two sensually appealing environments chez Loulou: the dimly lit ground floor is sectioned off with peekaboo rattan panels into a series of comfy dining spaces (its ceiling in black lacquer, its floor in Breccia di Medici marble), and the more expansive first floor features two main chambers decorated with Flemish-style landscape murals hand-painted in Paris, facing expansive views of the Tuileries.

Yet whether you choose to sit upstairs, downstairs, or on its sunny garden terrace, Benoit Dargère’s menu remains a constant, attracting the international fashion set who have descended upon the establishment in droves, both in and out of fashion week.

“I work in tandem with Italian chef Diego Compagno, in such that I bring my French point of view and he brings an Italian one, so we are able to create a fusion between the two. Of course we respect certain Italian classics, too, but there are other dishes where we allow ourselves more freedom, particularly to adapt to a Parisian palette.”

“The autumn menu integrates products from the south of Italy, but with a French elegance. Downstairs, we also have our charcuterie bar with exclusively Italian cheeses and meats from across the country, whether it is ham or fresh hazelnuts from Piedmont, Sicilian pistachios, and other delicacies from Diego’s region of Venice. The space looks onto leafy gardens, it has a sunny aspect, so the flavours of the Mediterranean, both wine and food, felt natural to us.” www.lolou-paris.com

 NEWs

Thornback & Peel

Infusing 19th-century wood engravings with a touch of humour, Thornback & Peel’s hand-painted kitchen linens are wonderfully playful.

 ALESSI Salad bowl

Based on the tools used by early man, the Human collection in mirror-polished stainless steel is beautifully simple. www.store.alessi.com

 BOOK La Cucina di Luca Fantin

Italy and Japan are top foodie destinations and Luca Fantin has covered both: the Italian chef heads up the Michelin-starred Il Ristorante Luca Fantin in Tokyo’s Bulgari Ginza Tower. Master his recipes and learn the inspiration behind them. www.amazon.co.uk

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DESTINATION

The Savoie faire

On and off piste, the Savoyard ski region has something for everyone. Ask ten avid skiers to name their top destinations and you could well get ten conflicting answers. But whatever your particular skiing or boarding yen, France’s Savoyard peaks can deliver. From old school to off the wall, stylish simplicity to super-luxe, it’s all out there.

COURCHEVEL a taste of high life

Les Trois Vallées proclaim itself “le plus grand domaine skiable du monde”. Which seems fair enough given its 600km of immaculately linked runs, spanning three vast valleys, each with its own focal point. Further west is Val Thorens, Europe’s highest ski resort at a dizzying 2,300m above sea level. Tucked in the middle is Méribel – all quintessential Alpine charm, its traditional aesthetic fiercely protected. And then of course there is Courchevel, where, just after the end of World War II, Trois Vallées skiing really began.

A recent arrival at the Courchevel party is LVMH White 1921, designed by 

architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte (the man former French president Francois Mitterrand turned to when his Elysée apartment needed freshening up). A chic, contemporary boutique hotel in Courchevel 1850, it has both skiing and shopping on the doorstep. Literally. It also has 26 compact rooms with modern alpine touches; a ski shop/service room where equipment hire is seamless and expertise limitless; a spa and gym; and, completing the wraparound ski experience, an immaculate level of service orchestrated by its effervescent director, Agnés Bouanani.

Dinner requires stepping out, but La Saulire, a mainstay of the Courchevel

 culinary scene since Jacques Trauchessec (still the owner) first opened its doors 40 years ago, is less than a two-minute walk away. With the arrival of chef Benoît Redondo at the start of the new millennium, truffles became the restaurant’s speciality and the prized ingredients is put to spectacular use in a range of dishes (not least the light chicken-and-truffle mousse), complemented by an impressive selection of grands crus.

Breakfast is served closer to home, in White 1921’s Le Petit Salon. Then, whether you are eyeing up the gentle runs of the Jardin Alpin or the rather more fearsome challenge of the Grand Couloir, there’s ample scope to rack up some serious mileage before midday refuelling. Delivering both the vista and the vittles, with a French-meets-Spanish-vibe, is La Soucoupe, nestling just below the top of the Coqs chair, an effusive welcome from owner Marta Pecchio is guaranteed, and with its panoramic terrace, meat grilled in front of a roaring fire and a competent sommelier, it is the sort of place for which the place “long lunch” was invented.

The haute-cuisine theme continues back in the village at Les Airelles, next to 

the Jardin Alpin piste. Stepping across the threshold is akin to entering a fairy tale – which is exactly what Raymond Fenestraz intended when she founded the hotel ahead of the 1992 Winter Olympics. Her dream was a castle in the mountains, evoking the 19th-century style of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, and although Les Airelles changed hands in 2008, that dream lives on, with staff attired in period costume and children lavishly catered for in the grandly titled Royaume des Enfants, complete with its own miniature castle. The Pierre Gagnaire restaurant, adorned with bespoke Hermes crystal, has two Michelin stars, while each winter, Cala di Volpe relocates its acclaimed Italian cuisine from Sardinia. There is also a vast pool and spa area, including a snow cave.

Just above Les Airelles, Cheval Blanc is another hotel determined to go the extra mile; in the White restaurant, La Table de Partage seats 16. And tucked away a floor below is Two-Michelin-starred Le 1947, where chef Yannick Alléno and his team work their magic in an open kitchen. www.white1921.com ; www.airelles.fr ; www.courchevel.chevablanc.com

 VAL D’ISERE Up to the challenge

Espace Killy, spanning Val d’Isère and Tignes, has some of the steepest terrain in the world, almost limitless off-piste and lift-served verticals of over 2,000m. Fifteen years ago, Val d’Isère Chalet Eagle’s Nest was unveiled as the first private ski chalet with its own indoor pool. Combined with the chalet’s position, towering over the village from a rocky perch, this created a destination with a peerless cachet. And now, the Scott Dunn flagship property, where gourmet five-course dinners by private chefs, complimentary cocktails, a team of chalet hosts and the highest-quality childcare are included, is making even more of its

lofty location. As part of a £750,000 refurbishment, a new deck was installed, with a hot tub that lets guests indulge simultaneously in mountain views and Laurent-Perrier bubbles.

Traditional Savoyard design remains at the core of the seven-bedroom chalet, but is now augmented by state-of-the-art bathrooms. The dining room’s vast picture window delivers an unparalleled prospect across the valley, while a new kitchen gives the incumbent chef carte blanche to raise the culinary bar.

To access the village from the top of the rock (down an ingenious spiral ramp), a driver is permanently on hand. Alternatively, the resort’s World Cup slope, the Face de Bellevarde is just along the road, making a fast start after breakfast quite possible. For bona fide ski in, ski out, however, the Front de Neige is the place to stay, and Le Yule, which opened late 2015, is an imposing new addition.

A vast wooden terrace slope-side is paired with a bright, stylish restaurant inside. The floor-to-ceiling window around the spa and pool afford impressive views of the face. Meanwhile, the 41 rooms and suites offer stylish boutique accommodation for skiers focused on making the most every minute. www.scottdunn.com

 MEGEVE a welcome retreat

Mégève is a village with a medieval heart and its pace of life, for locals and incomers alike, reflects that. Moreover, it remains quintessentially French, and in keeping with its roots distinguishes itself by an unapologetically genteel approach. Sure, there are 450km of pistes to keep even the keenest skier happy, but there’s no pressure. Should you simply want to enjoy the surroundings – perhaps try snow polo, take to the skies in a hot-air balloon.

Few places lend themselves more to luxuriating than Le Chalet, part of Zannier 

Hotels. Previously a restaurant run by esteemed French chef Marc Zannier, founder and chairman of the Zannier Group. Five years later, and with Zannier’s son Arnaud at the helm, it reopened as an exclusive hotel-meets-chalet hybrid with just 12 suites and rooms, offering an intimate retreat where service is personal but not intrusive, and wellbeing is all-embracing.

Befitting its gastronomic heritage, the food at the attached La Ferme de mon Père – from the truffle risotto to the lavish Belgian waffles – does its bit to add to the experience. So too the cavernesque spa with its striking blue pool and portfolio of relaxing treatments. The accommodation is traditional and spacious with every touch – from cosy armchairs and sumptuous beds to roaring log fires – further enhancing guests’ serenity.

Thanks to a tailored ski service and driver team, getting kitted out and whisked off to the ski lift of choice requires minimal effort.  www.lechaletzannier.com

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Le Sommelier blog November 2016

Fine nectars for the festivities! WINE STORY: a consultant with a ‘rock-and-Roll’ journey, Upwardly MOBILE, November diary, Scottish gastronomy on the menu!A Private world: La Réserve Paris, France

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WINE REVIEW

Fine nectars for the festivities!

Whether one is an enlightened oenologue or a keen amateur, there is an almost infinite range of wine to savour (with moderation) according to taste and to the occasion. Carefully chosen, they will accompany intimate dinners as well as gourmet meals with the family, such as the end of year festivities. It is time to discover the selection of festive wines chosen by Le Sommelier.

CHÂTEAU DE FARGUES, 2007, Sauternes

Château de Fargues 2007 has a beautiful golden yellow colour and a complex nose of candied fruits (apricots, tropical fruits), with citrus notes and a beautiful intensity. On the palate the wine is full, silky with a wealth of outstanding honeyed aromas. The wine exhibits a beautiful length supported by an exceptional freshness. A great success! Wonderful with Foie Gras, Braised Grouse with Grapes or an aged Comté. www.chateaudefargues.com

CHÂTEAU FIGEAC, Grand Cru 2004, Saint Emilion

As often it is the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that make the success of this Figeac 2004, adorned with a ruby colour and a nose where cedar accents mingle with cassis and spice. In the mouth Figeac shows an attack of energy with a very dynamic lingering appeal. This vintage refines over time and becomes more complex. This 2004 Figeac takes time to assert itself, so best to decant the wine two to three hours before serving. Pair this with Salmon Feuilleté, Roasted Quail with a balsamic reduction or a Tête de Moine. www.chateau-figeac.com

CLOS DES PAPES 2009, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

The mythical vintage of Châteauneuf, Clos Des Papes has a dark colour with bright reflections. The nose presents aromas of well matured fruits (black cherry, plum), mixed with sweet spices and vanilla. The fruit explodes in the mouth, soft and fleshy, supported by highly refined tannins and a great freshness. Already captivating and sensual, this Clos des Papes 2009 is above all a great wine for laying down. Perfect with Risotto with wild mushrooms, fillet of Venison in a sauce Grand-Veneur or a cheese board (Brie de Meaux, Mont d’Or, Livarot). www.clos-des-papes.fr

DOMAINE PIERRE DAMOY, Clos Tamisot 2012, Gevrey-Chambertin

Pierre Damoy is in charge of this illustrious family estate of 10 hectares since 1992. Over the years, this passionate winemaker has made the most of his beautiful terroir giving harmony and finesse in his bottles. Le Clos Tamisot offers a tight structure accompanied by a beautiful smoothness and bright fruit. We find aromas of liquorice and very tasty cherries. This wine is one of the most famous wines of the area and perhaps one of the best Gevrey-Chambertin. Fantastic with Veal Sweetbreads, Roasted Wild Duck or Boursault

DOMAINE TRIMBACH, Riesling Clos Sainte-Hune 2008, Alsace

Riesling Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune is a dry but fat wine that keeps a good acidic structure and a beautiful minerality all in good harmony. It pleases for its charming side and is frank and well structured. It reveals a specific bouquet and a remarkable fruit concentration enhanced with a refined touch of minerality on the finish. After few years of ageing, it will become one of the great wines of the world. A great match for tarte flambée, grilled veal with creamed cabbage and truffles or Vacherin. www.trimbach.fr

LA SPINETTA, Gallina 2011, Barbaresco, Italy

This Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina of La Spinetta comes from Neive, a vintage considered exceptional in the appellation. The 2011 vintage has an intense nose, characterised by ripe fruit scents and pleasant notes of balsamic, mint, wood and chocolate. In the mouth it confirms all these qualities, fresh, fine, powerful, pure, mineral and fruity with a long finish. Pair it with white truffle risotto, pigeon stuffed with mushrooms or a Gorgonzola. www.la-spinetta.com

VEGA SICILIA, Unico, 2008, Ribera del Duero, Spain

A legendary wine, Unico owes its unique character to a vine-growing of rare practice and an art of ageing reaching unmatched perfection. An ageing process among the longest in the world, nearly 10 years from barrel to bottle that slowly adds a patina to the colour and the nose of this assemblage dominated by Tinto Fino: tantalising aromas, sweet and melted between black fruit compote, sweet spices, truffle and mint notes. The power and sweetness of the fruit fills the palate with delight, supported by melting tannins and discreet freshness. Vega Sicilia signs here a Unico of legend of a phenomenal length.  Superb with Goat Cheese feuilleté, Roe Deer Fillet with a Noisette sauce or Manchego. www.vega-sicilia.com

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WINE STORY

Stephane Derenoncourt, a wine consultant with a ‘rock-and-Roll’ journey

Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt is well known for his success in winemaking. Common sense, observation of nature and respect for the land are keywords of his success. Anna Caidan gives an account of his journey and vision in the winemaking process.

There are winemakers, consultants and oenologists. Stéphane Derenoncourt  IS winemaker, consultant and an oenologist. From Bordeaux to California, Bergerac to Lebanon, passing through Italy, India or Turkey, this winemaker has made wine all over the world, well supported by a team of like-minded competent people, and all very committed. His modesty about his success is an addition to this sincere and straightforward man, who does not hesitate to say out loud what some do not dare to think.

In 1999, Stéphane Derenoncourt founded "Vignerons Consultants", a consulting firm which became "Derenoncourt Consultants" in 2010 when he teamed up with three of his colleagues. With his wife Christine Derenoncourt, he created his own vineyard in Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux, near Saint-Emilion, the Domaine de l'A vinified wines in California through its Californian Derenoncourt structure. Over the years, Stéphane Derenoncourt advises wine-growers in France and abroad with over a hundred domains in 2016. In 2010, Stéphane Derenoncourt partnered with 3 of his collaborators, Julien Lavenu, Simon Blanchard and Frédéric Massie, all three oenologists, to create Derenoncourt Consultants.

The team Derenoncourt Consultants is now composed of 16 people with whom Stéphane  was able to sustain and share a philosophy. The Consulting firm developed unique and comprehensive advice based on common sense and respect for nature, passion and optimal expression of the terroir and human contact with each recommended wine.

In 2015, Stéphane Derenoncourt wrote with Claire Brosse, a book that recounts his amazing journey as a consultant winemaker, mixing wine and Rock, his two passions; Stéphane Derenoncourt, a consultant with a "rock'n'roll" course. This is a book like no other; Entitled "Wine on Tour," he recounts in pictures the journey of Stéphane Derenoncourt, renowned consultant and owner of Domaine de l'A, Ste Colombe in Côtes de Castillon. An atypical personality in the world of Bordeaux wines: he started 30 years ago as a vineyard worker, and today at the head of a company of 16 people, he advises wineries worldwide, of which 70 châteaux in Bordeaux. This book has the format of a vinyl record, the preface is signed Iggy Pop, and each 33 chapter is named after song titles of the Rolling Stones, the Beatles or Stevie Wonder. A rock'n'roll book for a rock'n'roll man, as he likes to define himself, rooted in Bordeaux.

"When I arrived in Bordeaux, born and raised in Dunkirk, I had never seen a vine. So I have a slightly shifted story. I climbed the ladder" step by step ", I became noticed, and very quickly was overwhelmed by work. It is then that I created my consultancy business, which now employs 16 people and works worldwide.

The winemaker consultant acknowledges that he struggled to gain acceptance into the closed world of Bordeaux wine.

"I have always lived with this impostor, who is there but should not be, because there is no law. And over time, I became passionate with my work, and today we have some credibility. whether you like me or not, I do not care a bit. What I know is that there is only one form of respect for our work, and that is principal.” - Stéphane Derenoncourt. www.derenoncourtconsultants.com

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LIFESTYLE

Upwardly MOBILE

Luxury phones are ringing the changes, raising the mobile from workaday device to objet d’art

FELD & VOLK

Feld & Volk soups up Apple smartphones with everything from alligator skin to carbon fibre. The Emeraude case features Karelian birch wood finished.

Who it’s for?: Social-media addicts with thousands of followers.

www.feldvolk.com

GRESSO

The case of Gresso’s Regal Gold is made from a solid titanium plate with 18kt-gold inserts. It features a Full HD display protected by high-strength Gorilla Glass and a 13-megapixel camera.

Who it’s for?: The man who really does have everything.          

www.gresso.com

SAVELLI

Known for super-ergonomic smartphones covered with precious metals, stones and skins, Savelli has created the Black Alligator Gold. It’s coated in black alligator skin and is finished with gold accents.

Who it’s for?: The woman whose phone is her little black book.

www.savelli-geneve.com

TONINO LAMBORGHINI

Tonino Lamborghini’s 88 Tauri smartphones provides all the supercar styling you’d expect from one of the most prestigious vehicle manufacturers. It comes with a superfast processor, a leather case and subtle branding.

Who it’s for?: Petrolheads with style

www.lamborghinimobile.com

VERTU

The New Signature Touch Clous of Paris Anthracite Alligator has a crisp, geometric design, and comes with the British Brand’s concierge service, a personalised selection of exclusive privileges and unrestricted access to elite events.

Who it’s for?: Design geeks who live extraordinary lives.

www.vertu.com

NEWs

Hidden depths

Swiss watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin is known for its mastery in the field of marine chronographs which, in the 19th century, were the instruments of choice for more than 50 of the world’s navies and shipping companies. But its oceanic know-how doesn’t end there. The fully redesigned Marine diver (with a screw-locked crown, rotating bezel and a case that is waterproof to 300m) is one of the most reliable – and best-looking – diving watches around. www.ulysse-nardin.com

Hogan

Spice Girls fans rejoice – the platform shoe is back – Hogan has created the H222, a platform sneaker complete with gold studded detailing.

Sounds GOOD

Streamlined design and sophisticated audio have always been hallmarks for Loewe, so it’s no surprise that the latest Klang 5 speakers bear both qualities in abundance. The technology inside the aluminium casing is able to deliver 250 watts of sound through five integrated digital amplifiers at a 50Hz frequency range. Meanwhile, clever connectivity and a lack of cables means you can place the speakers anywhere in your home for a seamless TV or audio experience. www.loewe.tv

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CULTURE

Diary November 2016

Exhibitions, performance and books

THEATRE No Man’s Land

In this production of Harold Pinter’s acerbic black comedy, Patrick Steward plays Hirst, the successful author who invites into his home a failed poet, Spooner (Ian McKellen). So begins an alcohol-sodden evening in which the exchange of banter grows increasingly vicious. Reprising the roles they played on Broadway (taken by John Gielgud and Ralph Richardson in the original 1975 production), McKellen and Steward make No Man’s Land the hottest ticket in town. Until December 17 at Wyndham’s Theatre

Oil

They say money makes the world go round, but isn’t it oil that powers our cars and keeps civilisation going? So what would happen if that precious commodity ran out? Brilliant young playwright Ella Hickson presents a provocative and unsettling vision of past, present and possible future in her epic new drama, starring Anne-Marie Duff (Notes on a Scandal, Suffragette). Beginning at the start of the oil age in the late 19th century and moving to the contemporary era and beyond, the play centres on a mother and daughter facing a society in which they know may be about to change. Be warned: director Carrie Cracknell makes it her sworn duty to keep the audience on their toes. Until November 26 at the Almeida Theatre

EXHIBITION 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs

Even a century on, the style of the Jazz Age remains as fresh and, at times, as shocking as ever. Charting haute couture and ready-to-wear from 1919 to 1929, this display will leave you longing for a time when the motto was ‘Anything goes’. Until January 15th at the Fashion and Textile Museum

Picasso Portraits

A young woman rests her arm on a chair in a classical portrait. Another, startlingly abstract, painting shows the same woman, Olga Picasso. Together, they remind us of the astonishing range of styles her husband mastered and are among more than 80 portrait paintings brought together for this exhibition. Until February 5 at the National Portrait Gallery

BOOK

Visionary Women

Malala Yousafzai, Maya Angelou and Amelia Earhart are three of the 20 pioneers to feature in this compelling book, which looks at the lives and accomplishments of some of the world’s grande dames, focusing on their contributions to science, politics, art and social change. www.assouline.com

Avedon/Warhol

To accompany the exhibition earlier this year, Avedon/Warhol looks at the two American artists’ work side by side, focusing on their famed portraiture and exploring their common belief in the power of the image to amuse, seduce and shock.

Alexander McQueen: Unseen

He was the wunderkind whose creations revolutionised the world of fashion. And throughout his career, photographer Robert Fairer had privileged access to dozens of his spectacular shows. Now, Fairer is publishing scores of previously unseen images, taking us not only to the catwalk, but also backstage, where McQueen and his models paced about before their big moment. Six years after McQueen’s death, yet with his influence felt just as keenly, this book provides a glimpse of a true original at work. www.amazon.com

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GASTRONOMY

Scottish gastronomy on the menu!

Make a detour to some totally charming hotels with star studded tables; an unforgettable experience in upmarket hotels in Scotland.

Visit the Isle of Skye to drop your luggage in one of the fifteen rooms of the inimitable Kinlock Lodge, an ancient hunting lodge facing sublime wild landscapes and enjoy the delectable cuisine of star-studded Chef Marcello Tully. www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk

Here you are at The Torridon, an impressive Victorian mansion, in the heart of 23 hectares of nature, also very known for its whisky-bar. www.thetorridon.com

  At Hotel Inverlodge, which overlooks the Bay of Lockinver  you can stay before leaving for a trip to the Handa Island where hides a natural bird reserve. www.inverlodge.com

Also try an exciting stay at the Dornoch Castle Hotel, the only hotel possessing a distillery. www.dornochcastlehotel.com

On to Rocpool Reserve Hotel crossing the majestic Highlands without forgetting to pay a visit to the Lock Ness monster! www.rocpool.com

At the Boath House Hotel in Nairm, a Georgian mansion with a very beautiful Anglo-Saxon garden, you will learn all the secrets of the ‘Slow Food’ in the company of chef Charlie Lockle who only cooks with fresh produce from the hotel kitchen-garden or local suppliers. www.boath-house.com

NEWs

Best PRESSED

Developed in 2013 by Richard Smith-Bernal, a semi-professional rugby player looking to rebuild his strength after an illness, The Juice Smith’s line of smoothies, salads and snacks are not only vegan, they’re also free from gluten, wheat, soy, diary and preservatives. But what’s in The Juice Smith’s products is even more impressive (not to mention vitamin-rich): organic fruits, vegetables, seeds and nuts, including açaí, goji berries and spirulina. All the salads include the freshest of raw ingredients, while the juices are cold-pressed, which helps keep the nutrients and enzymes intact. www.thejuicesmith.com

Grand tradition

A staple of every sybarite’s drinks cabinet (and a key element of French deserts), Grand Marnier is at the fore of the lavish-cocktail trend this autumn. Over the years, the orange-infused liqueur’s recipe has been modified in various ways to produce limited-edition varieties. In 1927, Cuvée du Centenaire was released for the distillery’s 100th Anniversary; made from a blend of Cognac up to 25 years old, the cuvée has notes of dried fruit, gingerbread and nutmeg offset by oaked spiciness.

Bon APPETIT

For a city break with a difference, the Mandarin Oriental has created In Paris by Marx, a tour of the 12 favourite haunts of its chef Thierry Marx, from chocolate-makers to charcutiers. And it’s topped off by dinner at his Two-Michelin-starred restaurant. www.mandarinoriental.com/paris

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DESTINATION

A Private world: La Réserve Paris, France

The most talked-about and seductive new hotel in Paris, La Réserve has raised the stakes in decadence and sophistication.

La Réserve, a new grand townhouse hotel and spa in the 8th arrondissement in Paris, conjures up all the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie with its extraordinary levels of service and seclusion. Exuding the atmosphere and style of a 19th-century mansion (it formerly belonged to Napoleon III’s half-brother, the Duc de Morny, and then designer Pierre Cardin), the hotel puts an almost pathological emphasis on privacy.

There is no check-in desk in the stunning belle époque salon, which is furnished with velvet tasselled love seats; this kind of tedious admin is instead confined to the comfort of your own suite and comprises a swift, painless scan of the passport. Such delicacy also extends to the spa, where guests can swim in the 16-meter pool by candlelight behind drawn curtains. Of course, this sense of theatre is a celebrated signature of designer Jacques Garcia – elegance with a hint of decadence, sin and romance – and makes La Réserve resemble a more sophisticated version of that fashionista favourite, Hôtel Costes.

Everywhere feels like a private club from a more civilized era: from the courtyard, to the library with its leather-bound volumes and honesty box, to the muraled smoking room. These communal areas are only open to hotel guests of La Réserve’s serviced apartments nearby, which overlook the Place du Trocadéro and neighbourhood brasseries such as Le Scheffer, whose busy terraces are attended by old-school, black-waistcoated, white-aproned waiters waltzing between the tables. Guests can also dine at the hotel’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Gabriel. While the views from the apartments showcase the beloved, unchanged face of Paris – with its classic Haussmann architecture of slated domes, floor-to-ceiling windows and grand wrought-iron statement entrances – the aesthetic inside is more contemporary, with high-tech flourishes and exquisite attention to detail.

With views over the Eiffel Tower, which sparkles on the hour every hour after the sun sets, there is surely no more exclusive address in the whole of Paris. www.lareserve-paris.com/en/

NEWs

TO THE NTH DEGREE

With an expedition series that spans three continents, IGO Adventures caters for those wishing for an extreme vacation. The 2017 programme includes the return of the N600 Norwegian Challenge, in which participants undertake a four-day expedition across untamed wilderness (above), and the new S280 Namibian and W1110 Wyoming Challenges, just in case you’ve already conquered Norway. www.igoadventures.com 

WIN-WIN SITUATION

The trophy cabinet must be filing up rapidly at Air New Zealand’s HQ. Not only has it earned the title Airline of the Year 2016 from AirlineRatings.com for the third consecutive year, but it has also been named Air Transport World’s 2016 Eco-Airline of the Year. Such recognition is understandable if the brilliant premium economy is anything to go by; it includes the innovative Spaceseat, which has a fixed shell so the person in front can’t recline into your space. www.airnewzealand.co.uk 

ON THE RIGHT TRACK

Two luxury trains are launching in spring 2017: Train Suite Shiki-Shima and Twilight Express Mizukase (above), run by JR East and JR West respectively. The latter’s Art Deco-inspired train has menus from Japanese chef Yoshihiro Murata, whose CV has an impressive seven Michelin stars. And the best bit (apart from the unspoiled Japanese landscapes)? Each train carries fewer than 35 passengers. Nothing like Tokyo’s metro, then. www.insidejapantours.com

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Le Sommelier blog October 2016

An anthology of surprises! Made with love, November diary, Gastronomic escapades, Indian Ocean escapes, Simply capital

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WINE REVIEW

An anthology of surprises!

Enrich your cellar with seven beautiful vintages carefully selected by Le Sommelier.

  BODEGAS MUGA, Seleccion Especial Reserva, 2010, Spain

A Cuvée with an elegant palate, tasty and silky. A wine that impresses from the first sip, combining brilliant freshness with the maturity of its Mediterranean character. Ripe fruit, balsamic, mint and liquorice, spices and cloves, all in perfect harmony plus a silky texture and soft tannins. Great with Duck Confit with Green Lentils, Veal Sweetbreads in a Port wine sauce or Gouda. www.bodegasmuga.com

 CHÂTEAU COUTET, Opalie de Château Coutet, 2010, Bordeaux

Chateau Coutet’s Opalie sports a beautiful yellow colour with very pure hues. The nose mixes citrus followed by notes of white flowers and spices. This complex aromatic palette evolves from the opening towards notes of yellow fruit. On the palate this Opalie 2010 proves ample with a vibrant vivacity. The fruit aromas are pure and sleek and the finish, very fresh on citrus notes, proves irresistible. Wonderful with Guinea Fowl Tagine, Morel Mushroom Crusted Veal Filet Tenderloin or dry goat cheese.www.chateaucoutet.com

 HARKHAM WINES, Azizas Old Vines Shiraz, 2011, Australia

Old Vines Shiraz 2011 reveals notes of red berries, violet and saffron. The palate is deep and powerful, with aromas of pepper and cassis with a mineral finish. A refreshing and delicious red wine that reveals the Hunter Valley terroir. Excellent with Braised pheasant with grapes, pheasant with savoy cabbage or Bilberry Tart. www.harkhamwine.com.au

 MONTEVIEJO, Lindaflor Malbec, 2007, Argentina

Lindaflor Malbec originates on the high altitude vineyards of the Uco Valley in Mendoza. The powerful solar nose offers very ripe fruit (black cherry), liquorice, pepper with a subtle touch of nutmeg. Round and smooth, Lindaflor Malbec is a beautiful and faithful expression of the high country of Mendoza. Amazing with game terrine, capon stuffed with truffles or Fig tart. www.monteviejo.com.ar

 PIERRE FRICK, Gewurztraminer Eichberg Vendanges Tardives, G, 2010, Alsace

This Late Harvest Gewurztraminer of Domaine Frick, of a beautiful golden colour, offers powerful aromas of sweet spices, pineapple, lime, quince jam and candied mango. The mouth is full and sweet with hints of saffron, yellow peach and spice (cinnamon, ginger). A Late Harvest 2007 which enhances the fruit and richness of a Gewurztraminer with a long and peppery finish. Pair this with Asparagus Risotto, venison with Lingonberry Sauce or Aged Comté. www.pierrefrick.com

 ROTSCHILD-VINA CONCHA Y TORO, Almaviva, 2008, Chile

This mythical vintage, Almaviva offers the best of both worlds: the power and fullness of the great Chilean fruit and the firmness and elegance of a great Bordeaux. The subtle nose blends harmonious spiced notes with the intensity of the fruit, liquorice, cocoa and vanilla. The texture is silky, with deep flavours, and racy tannins. The Almaviva justifies its rank in the world of fine wine. A fabulous match for Beef Fillet with Ceps and Porcini Mushrooms, duck breast with Figs or pears poached in Red Wine. www.almavivawinery.com

 VILLA BUCCI, Tenuta Vieilles Vignes, 2010, Italy

Since the late 1990s, with the help of one of the very best winemakers in Italy, Giorgio Grai, Ampello Bucci has reinvigorated Rosso Piceno with tiny appellation yields, much greater planting densities and importantly, a winery at the cutting edge of technology, offering sensational wines. This vintage Vieilles Vignes 2010 is both floral, spicy, and well-balanced and surprises by its elegance and finesse. Beautiful with Grilled Lamb Cutlets, Veal Scallops with Marsala Wine Sauce or Gorgonzola. www.villabucci.com

  News

Optiwine

The designers call it the pocket decanter! Clever and effective, it is an object that gently allows the opening and aeration of beautiful bottles.

Through a unique process, Optiwine is the pocket carafe that wakes up wine molecules gently with a nano-aeration. It is a perfect aerator. www.optiwine.fr

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LIFESTYLE

Made with love

Exceptional craftsmanship. Distinctive design. Personalised touches. We celebrate a world committed to creating works of art and heart.

 Flying high

When it comes to aeronautical heritage, Rolex sits among horology’s pioneers, having been one of the go-to brands for pilots and adventurers since aviation’s golden age in the 1930s. The Oyster Perpetual Air-King – a modern reinterpretation of an old favourite – draws on Rolex’s eminent past and is fitted with cutting edge technology. Made from corrosion resistant steel, it carries the watchmaker’s exclusive Superlative Chronometer certification and features a shield to protect against magnetic fields. www.rolex.com

 Signature style

For the 25th Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award, the brand has paid tribute to one of the most influential art collectors of all time, the late Peggy Guggenheim, creating three pens in her honour. The pattern on the barrel and cap of the 4810 model reflects the design of the entrance gates at the Guggenheim Collection in Venice, and the red lacquer inlay spiral resembles the city’s striped mooring poles. www.montblanc.com

 CENTRAL COMMAND

There’s the TV remote. And the DVD remote. The Xbox console and the sound-system control. Then there’s the thermostat, the thingy for opening and closing the blinds, and the lighting panel on the wall that always feels like a hassle to adjust once you’ve settled down for the evening. Imagine, then, being able to control everything via one unit. The Harmony Elite, compatible with more than 270,000 devices, does just that. It will rewind the DVR, turn up the volume on the Sonos system, or turn down the lights and start the movie. And don’t worry if it falls down the back of the sofa – the Harmony app on your phone can take over. www.logitech.com

 STAR struck

Theoretical physics was the subject behind Timothy Oulton’s newest design. In his Rosen Bridge pendant light, he celebrates Albert Einstein and Nathan Rosen’s 1935 theory of ‘wormholes’ – cosmic shortcuts in space and time. Oulton has reimagined this revolutionary idea through a solar-themed light design: adjustable rings of steel are lined with glass pieces that sparkle and reflect the light emitting from the central bulb. www.timothyoulton.com

 Pick and mix

Mention Vivienne Westwood, and tartan, safety pin and a punk attitude come to mind. But her latest collaboration with The Rug Company reveals a more genteel side. The abstract Thistle rug takes its cue from the Scottish emblem,

while the rose designs are reminiscent of English botanical prints. So, as it turns out, tradition suits her. www.therugcompany.com

 The art OF SOUND

Cool Danish brand Bang & Olufsen has done it again. By collaborating with interior designer Maurizio Pellizzoni, who spent more than a decade at Ralph Lauren Home, B&O has transformed the Beoplay A9 music system into a work of art. Inspired by Sophia Loren and her roles in Italian cult films by Federico Fellini, , the speaker cover is printed with a pair of bright red lips on a white background. www.bang-olufsen.com