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Creative Project: Travel Log - Indonesia (2)

Krakatoa Eruption 1883:

In August 1883, in the Sunda Strait connecting the Java and Sumatran islands of Indonesia, the grand Krakatoa volcano of Rakata island erupted. The Krakatoa eruption of 1883 reached catastrophic scales, cementing itself as one of the most destructive volcano eruptions documented in history.

The deathly wail of the 6,000-foot-tall volcano did not come without warning. Western Javanese and Sumatran locals reported experiencing tremors dating back to May 1883, and explosions were made audible 100 miles away. I remained in a coastal village near the Krakatoa volcano when deafening explosions began booming sometime in the afternoon. The villagers were frightened, and black clouds emitted from the volcano’s peak shortly after. We decided to evacuate as the progression of explosions grew ever more potent. The people prayed for their safety. Even as night fell, distant booms could still be heard from afar. At 10 AM, the volcano reached its climax. A tremendous shock wave resounded throughout the nation, and I woke up to frantic reports of the tragedy happening live on television. Reporters on the local news station mournfully announce the deaths of over 36,000 individuals spread across 165 coastal villages. The majority were swallowed by the procession of tsunamis that followed, one of which reached a devastating 120 feet. International news outlets revealed that the explosions were heard over 2,2000 miles away. The sound waves created by the eruption traveled at breakneck speed, spanning the Philippines, South America, and Australia.

The skies shifted to a greenish hue. Other countries claim that sunsets of blue and green engulfed the sky.

I revisited the site after the calamity. The surrounding vegetation and life were left in ruin, covered in a blanket of ash. In just a single day, the force of nature that was the eruption of Krakatoa completely transformed the surrounding ecosystem of its island and the trajectory of the generations to come.

Komodo Island 1920 onward:

Located in the Lesser Sunda Islands archipelago, Komodo is a sizable island of around 200 square miles on the Sape Strait.

Its terrain encompasses rugged hills, dry savanna, grassy-green flora, and white beaches. This diverse landscape is home to the largest monitor lizard in the world, the Komodo dragon. Exclusively native to the region, the Komodo dragon is aptly named after the island. They can grow to lengths bigger than 9 feet and weigh around 200 pounds. These apex predators outnumber their human cohabitants, although populations have been decreasing.

The islanders coexist with the massive reptiles, living in relative peace in bamboo huts lining the island’s shorelines. I ask them what its like living among these impressive beasts every day.

They tell me they share strong bonds with the animal and uphold it as a descendant of their culture. Inhabitants are closely entwined spiritually and physically to the Komodo dragon. The Indonesian Ministry of Forestry declared 72,000 hectares of the island as national park grounds in 1980 and increased to 219,322 hectares in 1984. Unfortunately, relationships between the people and Komodo dragons don’t always end in mutual respect. Attacks and casualties have occurred multiple times across the course of the creature’s international scientific recognition in the 1920s.

A recent attack in 2009 took place outside a park ranger’s hut when he was tending to paperwork. The animal bit him in the ankle and he was left with 55 stitches across his ankle and arm.

Despite this, the people of Komodo Island still hold strong connections with the beast and understand the significance of its preservation. Conservation efforts are being made to ensure the well-being and future of these beautiful creatures. To conclude, the local governor seeks to close the island off from tourists for a year in 2020 to rehabilitate the Komodo dragon population.

[module06travel-log]

Creative Project: Travel Log - Indonesia (1)

Indonesia is a country rich in historical and cultural roots. I visited 3 sites and attended two events in Indonesia post-1500 CE. This post shares my findings throughout each site and the events I experienced during my unforgettable excursion.

Borobudur Temple 1500 CE:

In 1500 CE, shortly after its abandonment, I visited the great Buddhist temple of Borobudur. Located about 25 miles from Yogyakarta, the revered Borobudur temple of central Java is a historical landmark of the now-fallen Shailendra dynasty.

I admired the holy site from afar. Trekking my way up the elevated hill, the temple seemed to span well over the size of an American football field, stretching just a bit above 400 feet at a glance. It was an astounding 2,000,000 cubic feet in size consisting of a pyramid-like base, 5 square terraces, and 3 primary levels constructed of andesite.

The exact causes of the temple’s desertion remain debated among modern historians, however, it is undeniable that the rapid spread of Islam in the 15th century was the main reason for this abandonment. Despite the wear and tear of the temple, it was a sight to marvel at. The level of detail on every surface of the structure was something I had never seen before. Every block and ornamental piece was carefully cut and placed in a way that did not require bonding agents such as mortar or cement. It likely took ~20-40 decades (c. 775 CE - 800-825 CE) to construct.

Once I finally set foot on the sacred grounds, I was unexpectedly greeted by a Buddhist monk wearing a traditional saffron-colored robe.

He is one of the last few dedicated members to leave the site, claiming that the holy temple was once a religious pillar of the region and a place of pilgrimage. A celebration of Buddha’s conception, passing, and journey of enlightenment took place in the temple of Borobudur every year during the blue moon. Large gatherings of devout followers would proceed in dignified unison in this commemoration known as the Waisak or Vesak ceremony.

I ascend the structure with him as he earnestly explains how the monument portrays the path to bodhisattva (path towards Buddhahood), each level, and the stories behind them. The combination of square terraces and circular platforms represents the symbols of Earth and heaven, creating the Mandala, a mythological depiction of the universe itself. On the lowest level of the temple were more than a hundred bas-relief engravings, each wall illustrating kama-dhatu, the “realm of feeling.”

The 2nd level, representing rupa-dhatu, the “realm of form,” is similarly embellished with countless reliefs, portraying the story of Gautama Buddha (the enlightened one).

Finally, at the zenith of the temple, standing at an impressive 115 feet tall from its foundation rests 72 stupas. These bell-shaped forms hold sacred artifacts that depict the arupa-dhatu, the “realm of formlessness.” At this moment, my appreciation for the magnificent temple reaches its peak. The Borobudur Temple was and still is a hallmark of Javanese culture. It is an invaluable relic of the bygone era of the Shailendra Dynasty and Mahayana Buddhism.

Prambanan Temple 1500 CE:

My next stop was the Prambanan Temple compound (Loro Jonggrang in Javanese) near the Temple of Borobudur. Compromised of 240 temples and six main ones, it is the country’s grandest monument dedicated to the Hindu divinity Shiva. The Prambanan Temple was said to have been erected under the orders of King Rakai Pikatan of the Hindu Sanjaya Dynasty from c. 840-850 CE. The Sanjaya and Shailendra Dynasties of the Mataram Kingdom competed against each other for political power, and it is suspected that the construction of the temple complex was a retort to the creation of the Borobudur Temple.

Situated near the Prambanan Temple is Mount Merapi, a sacred volcano prone to eruptions and causing earthquakes. Despite these dangers, there appear to be many villagers living close by, farming and making good use of the volcanic ash that fertilizes the land. These people remain loyal to their homes and devote time to working and restoring the holy site. It became evident to me that the Javanese people hold these natural and man-made structures very dearly, and consider them to be the heart of the region.

As I finally near the Prambanan Temple, I am met with the 47-meter tall (154-foot) main Shiva temple and stand in awe at its grandiosity.

The Brahma and Vishnu temples can be found to the south and north of the Shiva temple respectively. Together, these deities constitute three of the six main temples and form the Trimurti of the three major Gods of Hinduism.

Finally, each divinity was accompanied by their corresponding animal companions, making up the smaller half of the six cardinal temples.

Like the Borobudur temple, every inch of the site was intricately adorned with holy freestanding figures and stone reliefs. Together, these works of art gloriously depict the chronicles of the Indian epic Ramayana through brick and volcanic stone.

The Prambanan Temple is one of the finest Hindu temples in Indonesia, and it is ever-inspiring that the site is still a place of worship for the villagers of Prambanan village.

Wayang Kulit 1500 CE:

Wayang Kulit is a form of shadow puppetry originating from Java, Indonesia. A captivating method of storytelling, the ancient puppet theater incorporates lessons valuable to everyday life. Many plays challenge the status quo in their narratives through handcrafted Wayang puppets. Mythological tales and epics that showcase characters like ogres, beasts, heroes, villains, and royalty consistently feature in these performances. Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata are often inspirations for the storylines of these plays.

An hour before the show, I get the privilege of meeting the dalang, the lone master puppeteer.

He concentrated on the performance to come, empowering himself with spiritual energy. It was custom to meditate before the play as he would have to tell a story, move the puppets, and voice every character for several hours or the entire night. The dalang was honored among the Javanese people and recognized as a figure of spiritual wisdom. He was in charge of bringing the story to life and commandeering the puppets to action. After meeting the dalang, I seated myself in the front row. Hundreds of people attended the venue.

The gamelan, a traditional orchestra composed of bronze percussion, string instruments, and singers began playing a haunting tune to set up the tone of the play.

The first figure presented behind the shadow screen was a woman, presumably the daughter of a royal kingdom. This puppet was aesthetically crafted from buffalo hide and beautifully painted in traditional Wayang Kulit fashion. I sat tight, entranced by the swaying puppets and gamelan orchestra. Many new characters were introduced. Some were flat and made out of leather (Wayang Kulit) and others were three-dimensional and created out of wood (Wayang Klitik or Golèk).

The play had gone on for a few hours, and it was at this moment, that the plot reached its highest point of conflict between the main hero and rivaling demons. It was a battle between good and evil.

The dalang took the audience through a turbulent adventure and whirlwind of a story. It was a remarkable experience filled with chaos, sentimental value, and symbolism. The Wayang Kulit performance of the night left me with newfound feelings and an even greater appreciation for the ancient storytelling medium.