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Oh yes please. 

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Army backpack.

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Warm beard.

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Denim shirt, tweed jacket, brown belt. Sunglasses, hand casually in hair after stylist spends quite some time making it stick up like that.

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Back in the saddle

Hello everyone. After quite a long hiatus in which I've discovered many things fashionable, I'm back. I learned two things in my absence.

1.The research and upkeep for P.B.Duds' format was untenable for a working man. I'll reassess in 50 years from my teal terrace in old San Juan. 

2. A blog is worthless if the format is stressful. Just do what you want, because you care more than anyone else out there.

In that spirit, let's talk about that summertime sport up there.

Finally, it's warm again. This means hitting light colors like cream, tan and white and fabrics like seersucker, madras and linen.

A white t-shirt inexpensively highlights interesting features, like say, a popping blue pocket square or your new favorite blazer.

Give your ankles sun. Trousers, particularly in summer, can end before the shoe. Since birth, I prefer being sockless, but this leads to nasty heel blisters if preventative moleskin is not engaged.

I'm glad to be back.

(Image credit: menstyle1.com) 

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Manly Monday: Daniel Day-Lewis

Last night Leah and I watched the Oscars at The Little Theatre in Rochester. At several points in the evening, I found myself smiling at the apparent sincerity of those so skilled at portraying emotions not their own, but none more so than Daniel Day-Lewis. Here is a list of why he is the man this Monday.

His speech was the best of the evening. He joked with Meryl Streep. That alone is enough to catapult him into the ranks of manhood. But then, as a true champion, he recognized his competition and his wife. 

He is the first actor to win three best-actor Oscars, meaning he could be considered the best actor of all time.

Day-Lewis is an intense method actor. He virtually becomes his character during production, even off camera. When he played Christy Brown in Jim Sheridan's "My Left Foot," he reportedly confined himself to a wheelchair and was addressed as "Christy."

His father, Cecil Day-Lewis, was a British Poet Laureate.

He holds dual citizenship in the UK and Ireland.

He played John Proctor in the film version of Arthur Miller's "The Crucible. Then he married Arthur Miller's daughter.

This. (Yeah, it's the milkshake clip)

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Utility Bag: Pipe

This is Jeremy Brett, the best actor to ever play Sherlock Holmes. Brett portrays Holmes with a black clay pipe, rather than a calabash, which Holmes did not smoke, despite every portrayal of him you've ever seen.

Am I snobbish about this? Yes. But it's important, because the kind of pipe you smoke, and the way you smoke it, says a lot about you.

Pipes add at least 50 man points to your record. They are refined, steeped in history and make you feel better in every respect. A good pipe to start with is a half-bent taper, which should run you around $30 at you local tobacconist. 

Now, there is a danger when smoking a pipe. No, I'm not talking about mouth cancer, though if you smoke a lot, you'll run into that. I'm talking about only smoking a pipe to be seen smoking a pipe, like this idiot:

  Yikes. Every pipe smoker has a certain level of vanity, but you need to smoke on your own a few times, so that stupid grin wears off. Aim for this. He doesn't even care. 

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Spruced Up: How to shave with a straight razor

I went to the barber today for a hot towel shave. On a special day, go out and do this. It is a soothing, indulgent tradition steeped in manliness. The shave itself is the closest I've ever had. Though I recommend going to the barber for the full experience, here's how to do it yourself in a pinch. Whether you actually follow through or not, it's beneficial to know the process. If you're on any blood thinners, don't do it, because you could die.

Take a hot shower. This softens the hair follicles and makes them easier to cut without tugging.

Fill a mug or bowl with the hottest water possible, and let your shaving brush soak.

Squeeze extra water out of your brush and use it to make a lather with your shaving cream. Don't use your normal stuff - for a straight razor shave, it should come in a cake, not a can. 

Wet your face with hot water and apply some preshave oil - it will help soften things up, prep the hair for cutting, and nurture your skin.

Swirl the cream around on your face, mixing it up and using a painting motion to spread it around. Use hot water and a towel to wipe off any excess cream.

Let it sit on your face for 5 minutes, and reapply if it dries out. Make sure you have a proper, thick lather.

Pull your skin tight when you shave with your hand, by stretching with your facial muscles, and pushing your cheeks out with your tongue.

Hold the razor at a 20 degree angle. It's quite sharp, so don't use heavy force. This takes practice and you can easily cut yourself to ribbons, so cool your boots and take your time.

Make three passes for optimal smoothness - with the grain, across the grain and against the grain, using new cream each time (some only use water on the third pass. It's the hardest pass to make, and they like to see what they're doing). Don't worry about your neck on the second pass - it will be too hard to cut across the grain.

Wash your face with cold water to close your pores.

Dry your razor, strop it and oil it to prevent rust and damage. Sharpening is another lesson for another day.

Rinse your brush, shake out the water and hang it upside down to dry.

Main source for this article

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Tuesday Newsday: London Fashion Week

This week I'm focusing on a specific brand for London's fashion week. Observing what a classic like Burberry Prorsum does gives some sense of depth and variation instead of a thin smattering of what's here and there.

Christopher Bailey, Burberry's chief creative officer, hit the neon metallics hard for the Spring / Summer 2013 collection.

This is one of the more neutral tones, but still most eye-catching.

Modifying the jacket from favorite 80s blockbusters and turning it into formalwear works quite well.

Here we see something a little more pronounced within the collection - metallic blue shining like a beacon under a closely tailored jacket.

The angles of the sunglasses further sharpen the outfit's edge.

Focusing only on the shoes - subdued reds? No frills and to the point - versatile indeed.

My favorite piece from the Autumn / Winter 2013 collection. Browns and blacks mixed fearlessly together.

The white collar prevents the outfit from going too far.

Animal prints are found in most of this year's Prorsum collections, for better or worse.

Burberry is famous for its trenchcoats. Camel is big for them this year, but here we see a slick alternative.

It's versatile - one of the coffee-brown colors from the outfit previous could accent this nicely, or maybe even the neons from the Spring / Summer collection.

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Manly Monday

Every Monday, I’ll submit an individual who exemplifies something a man like me aspires to be. Fashion is useless unless your striking gray waistcoat covers the heart of a lion. Sometimes I will compare one of these great figures to something lesser, for educational and shaming purposes. To celebrate Presidents Day, today I honor George Washington.

Compare/Contrast

Both men are wearing uniforms. Washington is wearing that of a military leader, because he commanded the Continental Army during the American Revolution. The other guy is wearing the uniform of an aspiring suburban gigolo.

Both men are leaning on something. Washington is leaning on a cannon because he is hardcore. He and his ragtag troops marched through Christmas night in 1776, leaving bloody footprints in the snow, before unleashing hell on Hessian forces in Trenton.  The other guy is leaning on a diminishing bravado, softened by the probably-correct suspicion that everyone thinks him an ass.

 Washington said, "Remember that it is the actions, and not the commission, that make the officer, and that there is more expected from him than the title." This other guy gave the middle finger, and pursed his lips like a tart. 

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This has  nothing to do with fashion. It is a look at my weekend. My fiancee, Leah Stacy, and I shot a news video and interviewed Erich Lehman, a player in the Rochester art community. I made a delicious lunch before Leah donned a Cinderella outfit and visited a young lady's birthday party - she gets paid for this as a side job; she is not a weirdo. We threw a post-Valentine's Day party and went to church. 

Artists featured in gallery shots: St. Monci and Miguel Cardona

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Utility Bag: Sunglasses

Sunglasses: Half frame horned rim wayfarers. On Amazon for under $10.

Analysis: There are at least eight elements making him appear a stylish, modern gentleman. The sunglasses are most prominent. A man only needs a few pairs of sunglasses, and they must be carefully selected and versatile. 

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Thursday Breakdown: Downton Abbey style

Happy Valentine's Day, everyone. To commemorate the holiday, today's Thursday Breakdown will focus on the most romantic television show, Downton Abbey. There is not a man in the show you wouldn't want to look like, except maybe Sir Anthony. 

Ugh.

1. Let's start with Thomas. In the series three Christmas special, the men of Downton band together in a test of strength a la tug of war.

This is one of the few times we see Thomas out of the usual footman's formalwear.

He makes the most of it - matching and accents.

Pinstripes on the shirt, the waistcoat and the trousers.

Varying hues of grey and blue.

Contrast struck with the diagonal lines of the tie, reverberating off the vertical pinstripes.

Accented with the white color and the silver watch chain.

Breaking tradition with mussed hair - perhaps because of exertion, perhaps because of Jimmy.

2. Let us move on to the firebrand of the Downton men, Tom Branson. His style was so spot-on he lured one of the Grantham ladies from her ivory tower to his Irish hovel. 

  Tom Branson is a master of the exaggerated, which pays off for him.

Garters on the sleeves.

12 buttons on the forest green waistcoat.

Stand-up collar with black necktie.

When he drives, he wears those huge wolf-strangler gloves and goggles. I mean, how fast are you actually going in 1914, Tom? 15 mph? Nevertheless, boldness is rewarded.

3. Finally, the man. The literal lord of the manor. The rock. Lord Grantham.

With shotgun held high and true, there is no question who runs this town. He testified against his best friend. He blew the Grantham fortune. He snubs Edith every day. He is the boss.

L.G. is ramming around outside. He needs something warm and durable that will look great but hide stains.

He makes a safe choice with earthy browns and greens, over a white shirt - his anchor.

Tweed is excellent for the outdoorsy man. And it's back in a big way. Orvis' day has come.

Finally, the hat. Whether the wide brim or the slouchy cap, browns and greens tie it all together.

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Spruced Up: hairspray

Yes, real guys use hairspray. For men wanting to step foot into the unkempt world of hairstyling, hairspray is a good place to start. But learn what you're doing before carpet-bombing your scalp.

1. Hairspray is not always the answer. It is often used in conjunction with other products, like wax or gel, to add hold and lift. However, if your hair is thin and wispy like a vapor, you may get away with a low maintenance look using just spray. 

2. Choose the right product. If you're looking for a non-sticky product, and you probably are, go for an unscented aerosol. Consort for men is a basic go-to.  Sprays come in a variety of strengths, which correspond to how drastically you're shaping.

3. Method. Hold the can 6 to 8 inches from your hair and spray at the roots. For a sculpted look with other products, finish styling with a coat of spray to hold hair in place. For a tousled look, apply a light overall coat and use your fingers to scrunch it in. It won't get too crunchy, and it will offer extra hold for the day that lies ahead.

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Tuesday Newsday: New York Fashion Week

As someone just digging into the principles and theories of men's fashion, New York Fashion Week is an intimidating prospect. Many of these outfits seem counterintuitive. Perhaps that's the point.

The Duckie Brown fall/winter 2013 line by designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver is all inverted layering. Short coats over long coats, and prominent, bold-colored cuffs on the trousers. Photo courtesy of The Fashionisto. 

The takeaway:  No one can say it's wrong if you wear it with confidence. Choose boldly.

The Joseph Abboud Red Label fall/winter 2013 line by designer Bernardo Rojo features thick, bulky construction while maintaining a smooth outer shell. Photo courtesy of Esquire. 

The takeaway: Thick sweaters, coats and collars don't have to be ruffled and bulgy, if you ensure a good fit. Plus, I mean, they're warm.

The David Hart fall/winter 2013 collection combines different plaid colors and patterns, hearty sweaters and two-button blazers. It seems a crossfade between 1960s and 70s, nerdy and Nordic.

The takeaway: Color is the order of the day. Reassess what goes with what, and don't let different patterns deter you from a tight color combination.

NYFW puts hundreds of designers' work on display. Obviously this is a small selection of what you can see at the event's official website.