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Hemalkasa - A journey through woods - pathway to LIGHT:
With least knowledge about what is really in store for us, we three trinities left Campus (Ravi, Ganesh and Srini) and rode towards south of Nagpur to a place called “Hemalkasa”. All that we knew was that we had to travel for more than 350 kms one way and come back after a night’s stay. My back was worrying me much and I was not sure whether the Lumber-6 which is already prolapsed would make me immobile again. I had regained some of my original strength after three week of yogic exercises and this was the only solace for my back.
2. Background of our venture into woods: After a two hour enlightened morning session with Dr Prakash Amte at Ashokvan and previous week’s visit to Anandvan, we had a rough idea about the activities going on at Hemalkasa. The very founder of the legacy somewhere in 1973 was found to be extremely unassuming and clear in his idea about “Community Service”. Imagine three Magsay awards in a single family, something really unheard of !! We three proceeded further with lot of discussion about our previous trekking experiences and issues relating to Environment. I had the company of a prolific nature lover / trekker Ravi Mehrotra (who has written a very beautiful book personifying a tree’s feelings) as well as a deep thinker/writer Ganesh from my own state. The lengthy programme had few takers and I felt that something deep inside was pulling us towards Hemalkasa.
3. The place is fairly unknown and in the remote jungle at the Border of Chattisgarh and Andhrapradesh. Even the Driver has no clue as to where we are heading. Frequent enquiries/verification of the route had to be done on the way. After travelling for about 150 kms, we literally stumbled upon rough road followed by dense reserve forest. We Crossed Ballarsha, Chandrapur and reached Alapally where the real forest begins. It was so pleasant a drive in the reserve forest that I was reminded of the stretch between Mysore and Nagarhole/Bandipur Wild life sanctuary which I used to drive very fondly with my family. Ganesh had some very interesting anecdotes about his venture into wilderness and Ravi had immense energy to describe his own pursuit with nature alongwith his nephews and son which kept us ticking in an unknown arena.
4. After a brief halt for snacks and tea, we reached THE place “Hemalkasa”. It was raining insistently and we had to literally make our way into the “Lok Biradari Camp” to reach Guest house kept ready for us by Sachin our Contact person. He is a teacher in the Camp for the past 8 years and so dedicated to work, be it teaching or attending visitors. We rested for about half an hour and did not want to miss the natural surroundings. Before getting dark, we decided to venture out and go upto the triveni sangam (Indravathy and other two majestic tributaries which later join Godavari in AP). To save time, we took the vehicle and went towards Bhamargad which is supposed to be the hub of of naxalite activity.
Prafull (another volunteer who got inspired by listening to a talk by Dr.Prakash Amte in Mumbai and joined the Camp leaving his job and family) took us towards a very serene place where the river flows with great speed on one side joining its counterpart which flows very majestically. We could see some tribals catching fish at a great distance and some boys enjoying the flow of river on the other side.
5. We were told that there is access upwards for about 18 kms afterwhich it is no man’s land. The route is blocked and we have no further access towards either AP/Chattisgarh. Instantaneously, Ravi expressed his desire to go further and see the last possible point. Very reluctantly, Prafull took us further only to be reminded about our punctured tyre which was given for repair at Bhamragad. We drove further and the entire “Mahol” on the street was very different. People looking at us with great suspicition as well as curiosity. There were many refugee Bengali businessman and the place was full of evening activity. Our observer/thinker Ganesh immediately noticed a few policemen in the chowk with AK47 type of guns.
After crossing the chowki and travelling some distance we were prompted by Prafull to quickly take a U-turn and head towards Camp. We noticed certain unusual tone cautioning our quick reprieve and we had to abandon our plans. Still we did not want to run away so quickly as it would create more susipicion. Lowering the glasses, we spoke to a few native people who found to be happy talking to us. We made ourselves very clear that we have come to see the Camp and were only trying to see places around. Satisfied with our answers and query, we could safely come back upto the main street where the tyre is being repaired. A big sigh of relief by Praful who later told us it is the hub of activity and some encounters have happened in the very same place. Ravi could not forget the tribal man looking police or the police looking like a tribal with a AK 47 rapped in cloth at the chowk. We thus came back safely after sipping tea in a near by jopdi hotel.
6. Back in Camp, it was “hungry time” as we skipped lunch on the way to reach place early. It was such a pleasant and tasty food making way into the belly in full force making us rush back for a nice sleep. The taste of Kadi was lingering even in my dreams. We decided to get up early and venture into forest on our own. At about 5.00 in the morning, I could not resist myself and started walking across towards a nearby nala inside jungle. Luckily, range was there to receive a call from Ganesh who was also on his way alongwith Ravi. Three of of ventured into thick woods crossing the river bed only to see some human settlements and natural ponds. As we did not want to take the risk of antagonizing the tribal/village population, quietly returned the same way through the flowing water towards Camp.
7. Surprises have not ended. After nice breakfast, we had a small informal talk with Digant and Aniket (Sons of Dr.Prakash Amte). I also enjoyed playing with their young sons who was very curious with my mobile pictures. Aniket took us into the “Animal rescue Ark” behind residence where we were thrilled to see a fully grown Peacock posing for camera. Next was a variety animals like civet cat, monkeys, owls, magar mach babies, and alas a few poisonous snakes. Aniket had no hesitation in taking them into his hands and explained how poisonous they are. Gani was admiring its beauty from a distance and I tried to touch the soft tissued reptile.
8. Next came the real shock when he went inside the enclosure where a panther was resting alongwith a younger partner. He coolly went and patted the ferocious animal and we could not resist taking the entire view into video mode. He had seen them since they were brought as babies from the near jungles and had no fear or hesitation in meeting like this !! After feeding a few another animals including a Bhalu with roti and honey, he took leave for daily chorus. We proceeded towards the cricket and athletic track where children were enthusiastically engaged. There are more than 650 children in the residential school. We could see a boy who was just flying with great speed. Sachin was lamenting that they are badly in need of a trainor as the boys are highly agile and strong only needing a little confidence/technique to reach nationals. Several boys have reached upto state level without any coach. We then went around the hospital and Sachin explained the nature of patients and treatment given. He also explained the ambitious expansion project meant for building a multi discipline hospital for the benefit of tribals being coming up.
9. To quench our thirst for trekking, we took the help of two more volunteers and headed towards the dense forest. We crossed through the village which we saw in the morning and went upto the middle of hill. We were told that it would take one day to reach the other side !! We were also cautioned not to venture deep as the mosquitoes would gift us with malaria. Not taking too much chances and also to take rest for the long journey back to Nagpur, we descended from the jungle. After a refreshing bath and sumptuous lunch, we headed towards NADT campus which we had totally forgotten for the last two days. It is surprising that not even once, we remembered or talked anything about our training schedule till we reached outskirts of Nagpur.
10. We were totally mesmerized and dumbstruck by the beauty of pristine pure jungle and also felt deeply sad about exploitation of tribals/nature by the very same persons who depend on forest. How beautiful this place must have been, when Dr.Prakash Amte first went to serve Tribals in 1973 along with newly wedded wife Dr.Mandakini. They did not know the language spoken by Madias and Gonds, the primitive habitats of this place. These tribals were totally cut off from civilization and never wore any dress nor saw any other human beings. If somebody dressed up appear, they would simply disappear into the forest. Dr Prakash and his wife had to win over their confidence before releasing them from the clutches of “tantriks” who treated them. Interestingly, the second generation and third generation of Baba Amte continues to serve Tribals by imparting education and medical care. Both his sons are Doctors who have shouldered the responsibility in continuing with the worthy cause of their father and grand father. They all could have settled well with a roaring practice and what made them to stick to a noble cause of serving tribals in this remote place remained a BIG Question in our minds. Their off springs also study in the very same school!!. What a family and what a great commitment to the cause of serving the community.
May such noble souls grow multi fold and inspire others in taking care of mother Earth.
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Free will and Fate
The Universe is an intricately organized and meticulously run operation, having cause and effect as apparent reality. The operation in the form of transactions which we see around us is run smoothly because, every constituent of this gigantic operation is allocated a specific task.
Each human birth takes place to carry out this task in accordance with its Karmas. The allocation of task is commonly known as FATE.The Circumstances and environment of house where one is born are pre-determined. To be born with silver spoon or in poverty laden circumstances is Fate.
If events are not pre-ordained, they cannot be predicted. The fact that something, some event to take place at a future date can be predicted, given credence to the existence of Fate. This is in generally called a result of Cause into arising of an effect in a short period of time which is perceivable by humans.
Behind all these pre-determined Fate, there is a force that shapes human lives. Vedic Astrology takes a giant intellectual step and identifies its force as Karma. The present is conditioned by past Karma and the Karmas done at present shape out future.Now what is FREE WILL.
Man is a creature who cannot avoid action. To act is to Live and action is within the freedom of a human being. Free will is therefore a misnomer, as we have seen that the Universe is an intricately run operation where each one of us are tasked, our actions have to conform to the limitations laid out by the actions of others.
Universe is a harmonious place and to be in harmony, one has to accept limitations.The Astrology explains complex phenomenon between fate and free will If everything is predetermined, then Astrology has no role at all. It has to watch things unfolding and do nothing.
In the same way, if Free will is not limited, then what is that prevents a man from achieving whatever he desires. He can act and get whatever he wants. But this is not possible.Astrology gives the reason, by calculating the limitations so that one can know the best time for a certain type of action. It can also gauge the task that a particular man has been allocated and help him to act in harmonious fashion.
For Eg. A dog or a cow, tied to a pillar with belt and the Pillar is Fate or destiny, where dog can do nothing about it. But the belt/thread is Free will and its elasticity / length are decided by the past/present karmas. Dog/cow can do what it wants within the area covered by the belt.
Free Will exists for sure; but it is regulated by Karmic limitations. We have to understand the nature, inclinations, outlook are conditioners which we have both granted by our past.
Freewill is the agency that produces activity and prepares the conditioning for the future. In this sense, if we exercise Freewill diligently now, the Fate can be modified to that extent.
However, the limitations of Freewill will always prevail in this modification and hence Fate determines our future, unless we are enlightened souls who are free from the results of actions performed.
(Sourced from ICAS notes on Freewill and Fate)
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Bike - an Insight into life
Oh Bike .. my beautiful bike
Can’t tell you how much I do Like-
Oh my beautiful bike, you are, in a way my LIFE.
Gave me insights into time and space.
Showed me places far and alike.
I was fond of riding bicycles and seen places which only reminds me of my deep urge to conquer time. I must have extensively travelled all around Bangalore and many rural areas of those days on official duty.
My tryst with vehicles began with Hero Puch in 1990s which I fondly remember as my biggest achievement / turning point.
Then came my Suzuki Samurai, which I proudly brought from Hindupura with a dear colleague of mine. This remained with me taking care travel needs of my family and kids till I came to Mysore in 2005.
I have fond memories of travelling on Ghat roads, many week ends to Kanchana, having Chinmaya tucked in between. I also used to take him for night rides only to see that he fall asleep due to cool breze !!
After my transfer to Mysore, the Time was ripe to change over and I chose to buy Suzuki-Zeus and the reason being it sounded like a bullet, my child hood fascination.
We did extraordinary trips in and around Mysore and climbed Chamundi Hills, MM Hills, Gopalaswamy betta several times.
Even in Belgaum, I remember, I had gone upto Sholapur and attended a Vipassana course far ahead. Our first Vipassana Course also had this Saarathy carrying ten days luggage of myself and Veenu from Srinagar to Bidadi at Bangalore.
Finally for my 55th birth day on 31-12-2021, I got a Royal Enfield as gift from Veenu to fulfil my childhood desire. But I was more than happy to see Chinmaya ride this Royal Bike, than myself. It suited him well and I lived my desires, through him and occasionally went on for long strides.
Today, I went for outing to get seat covers, box and a Royal Petrol tank cover and felt very happy to ride my own Suzuki Zeus. It's just 16 and looked so well, fit and fine. I bought her from Mangalore to give company, in this lonely Kochi.
I always felt a deep connect with the vehicle which I rode as if it is an extension of my body. This feeling is all the more strong when I rode a bike. Anything happening to bike touched me deep inside and I even felt elated when they got serviced and roared ahead with smoothness.
Incidentally, today being Krishna Janmashtami, I started reading "Uddava Geetha", being the Last message of Lord Krishna, an eye opener on many facets of life, particularly the last phase. This is supposed to be a revisit of Bhagavad Geetha, which was delivered in his prime time.
This was part of final message of Lord to his devotee Uddhava when the Dwapara ended giving raise to Kali yuga. The devotee questions Krishna on the need of destruction of Dwaraka resulting in end of Yadava Clan.
Krishna gives instructions for seeing the Lord in everything and living a life of perfect self-surrender and non attachment. Various chapters depict the need for renunciation and efforts for self realisation by giving life examples in a puranic way and a logical narrative.
There is a narration of 24 kinds of Gurus being earth, air, sky, water fire, moon, sun, pigeon, pythan, sea, moth, bee, elephant, Honey gatherer, Deer, fish, Pingala, a concubine, child, maiden, arrow maker, snake, spider, bhramara keeta.
It’s a lucid way of capturing the nature and essence of each guru to teach a particular concept and to turn our mind inwards for achieving Self realisation through non attachment, while being in the cycle of Life.
It intrigued me so much that I started comparing my present solitary confinement at Kochi and it made perfect sense as to where I am heading!!
In this journey away from family life, bike & books, made my life better giving me all the time and freedom which I wanted. May be this is the beginning of a true Vanaprastha to come.
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Yoga Vacation at Shivananda Ashram - From Tonnes to Ounce
FROM TONNES TO OUNCE ….
{Yoga Vacation at Shivananda Ashram, Neyyar dam, Trivandrum, Kerala}
My Life journey so far, has been swinging back and forth at various stages; sometimes I advance too fast and lag behind at a particular moment of life. It’s like four steps forward and two steps backwards, with the resultant growth being seriously contained. Studied Advaitha Vedantha deeply to a point and later drifted away from serious scriptural studies, though I kept in touch with lots of collections. My recent exploration being “Gayathri” and “Mantras” for a serious internal Sadhana and deeper contemplation.
In the above context, the journey had to be reversed with a proper foundation. It was more of Vedantha and less of Yoga. Hence, it is now time for practicing an Ounce of Yoga instead of tonnes of Vedantha. I was attracted to “Sivananda Yoga-Vedantha, Dhanwantri Ashram” at Neyyar Dam, Trivandrum, Kerala {*}. No theory, no benefit analysis, no Ashtanga Yoga but straight to Asana, Pranayama practice. My desire to study Upanishads in Sivananda Ashram at Hrishikesh (DLS) got re kindled and this appeared to be the first step in that direction.
I was sick for more than two days before starting this journey and when I reached Thiruvananthapuram, the condition was that I may not continue for a day more. Body pain, severe head ache, feverishness, throat pain… all were bothering simultaneously and it was of course Covid (-)ve as per report.
Early morning, landed at a family friend’s house and couldn’t stop from falling asleep. Our beloved Kanakaraju and family took due care and I was back to journey ahead. Reached Ashram at around 1 pm and after a brief discussion with the Director to whom we presented a translated copy of Bhagavadgeetha written by DVG. Later I got into dorm only to continue my sleep. Don’t even remember, if I took food that day evening or what I did after 1.30 pm that day !!.
Testing my limits – physical and mental:
Next day morning, I was told by my neighbour that there is a long trek to Kalipara hill nearby and we have to leave by 5.30 am and will come back by 7.30 am for Tea and asana classes. I was not sure as I could barely walk and it involved steep heights to be climbed. My energy level was too low even for a normal walk. However, I wanted to test my limits and joined the young group of students for Teacher Training course. Probably, this was the first trek in which I was at the end with a guide who was stuck with me!!
Started walking very slowly, using the rhythm of body to sync with breath and movement, a technique taught by the Director of Sivananda Centre, while briefing us just before the trek. It really helped me to gather myself and to reach top of the hill after climbing steep, rocky roads for about 3.5 kms. Such a simple technique taught while debriefing and it gave an idea as to how practical tips can be used during tough times. Journey started with chanting Trayambakam Yajamahe three times – Mahamruthyunjaya mantra, a verse from Rigveda, believed to bestow longevity, wards off calamities/accidents and prevents untimely death. It also removes fears and heals holistically.
We had to reach top of the hill before sun rise and there was no time to waste. Shallow and steep jungle road with pitch dark areas; but we were well guided by the volunteers. Finally, it was a steep rock climb up with side support and slowly I started feeling better. I could hardly put my next step, but something was pulling me up. Cool breeze all around and the energy around could be easily felt.
A beautiful Sun rise behind Agasthya Malai:
On top of the hill, we all sat for Chanting on the huge rocky slope where Kalippara Lokambika Temple originally situated {**}. As the chants progressed systematically, everyone got into an ecstatic mood and the first rays of Sun started showing up behind the peaks and we got immersed into the serenity of morning.
It was a delightful sight and we could see the panoramic view of Agastya Malai{***} (Final part of Western Ghats) seen in the back drop of Neyyar Wild Life Sanctuary. Sage Agasthya lived here and he is one of the most revered Saptharshis who travelled from North to South bringing along his wisdom for the natives.
The sun arose fully from behind the peaks quickly elevating our own spirits. It was such a wonder every time, since my child hood days to witness sunrise as well as sunset. I used to walk/trek just to witness this natural phenomenon and to get energised. My energy levels started getting normal and in fact greatly improved.
It appears that the Kali temple got destroyed in a lightning and there is only a small structure built recently. We could see some very old tribal rituals done here with a square made up of bamboo and plantain sticks. Previous day was Makara Vilakku and we were right at Sankramana – starting of Uttarayana, very auspicious for starting a new journey. Though I didn’t plan for this at all, it all happened on its own.
The day one begun this way and we returned to Ashram for a cup of tea, followed by asana’s Class at 8 am. I could barely bend anything and the technique of teaching made it all easy. With a few relaxation exercises and Sun salutations, body became more adaptable for asana’s to be practiced. The instructions given were very specific and clear to follow.
After the first class, I felt better than ever before. I could test my limits on the first day and got ready for second class in the afternoon. The second class for two more hours was exhausting as my energy levels again dropped. But the body became more flexible. It was time to strengthen my mind. Work on your mind through your body!!
To tell you frankly, this is just a theory and I started feeling more and more tired with lots of weakness everywhere!! At one point of time, I felt that I will not be able to cope up with this rigour and mind constantly refusing to do anything more. It also planned my return trip mentally, how to go back and catch a train to Mangalore…. Lots of excuses kept on pouring and after a deep Satsang / guided meditation class which finished at around 9.30 pm I went back to sleep. I really don’t remember anything what happened after my second Asana Class at 3.30 pm. The decision has been made to quit the practice and go back as my body won’t permit, or mind thought so. End of an ambitious journey…..
Things got changed again…..
Day Two began with an early bath and I found a good place to do my morning Japa. There is a small but energetic Devi temple in the precincts of Ashram surrounded by a meditation hall, ideally named as Rama Hall. I went after a bath at around 5 am and pleasantly greeted by an old lady who was in charge. I sat and did my Gayathri followed by chanting of Sukthas. Somehow, my earlier decision to leave back to Mangalapuram, started melting down, as I felt that this is a golden opportunity to thoroughly rejuvenate. Now after re charging myself in the presence of Amme Narayana I felt much more energetic than before and I decided to give it a try for another day.
Thus begun my second day and there was a Satsang at around 6 a.m. which contained a guided meditation and chanting of bhajans. This added up to the serenity and now I was mentally prepared myself for next course of asana class in the morning. This time the classes found to be elevating my bodily spirits and I felt lighter after nearly two hours of Yoga abhyasa. The instructions given were very precise and clear. I just followed what is told without thinking twice.
Kapaalabhathi, Anulom-Vilom with retention followed by 12 sets of Sun Salutations cleared the bottlenecks in the body and prepared for further Asanas. Bhujangasana, Shalabhasana, Chakrasana, Paschimottanasana, Sarvangasana and Halaasana really started to make me feel better as the back getting loosened making free flow of energy throughout body. Particularly, Sarvangasana and Halaasana stimulated thyroid glands and I felt great clarity in my thoughts.
The amount of Prana shakthi generated in these two hours was more than sufficient for the whole day and this first-hand experience under the watchful eyes of Yoga Teachers was amazing. The precision of instructions made practice easy and smooth. Every minute posture is observed and corrections suggested then and there, which made the practice easier and better with each posture and whole body started feeling extremely light within a very short period. Exertion and relaxation going hand in hand made the practice effective.
End of the session, there was also a balancing posture either Kaakasana or Vrukshaasana and first two days, I could not find a true balance; but on the last two days, I was waiting to do these balancing postures and successfully / comfortably stayed in the pose for longer. This clearly marked a distinct change in body and mind towards equanimity achieved through yogic postures / asanas. Balance in these asana’s also meant that we forget everything for a moment and remain fully focussed in the posture without any thoughts. An easy way to achieve thoughtlessness through a thoughtful gesture of body and mind!!
What followed next few days was only as expected. The daily practices, Satsang-bhajans, evening chanting of Lalitha Sahasranaama in the Devi temple followed by “Paayasanna” by the Amma in temple were totally nourishing the body and mind. I did not miss any of these for the entire stay and on the last day, I met Amma and prostrated her benevolent and worshipful eyes. She is a pleasant lady in charge of temple and the serenity is personified in her face. The chanting and prayer had a profound effect on my inner being and the experience is inexplicable.
My tryst with Asanas was fortified with after noon lectures followed by intermediary classes for two hours. First day, I was the only student and there was a radiant young lady teacher who very specifically explained the philosophy of Sivananda Yoga and Vedantha. As already seen, there is no fabulous theories, no cost-benefit analysis, no Ashtanga Yoga but straight to Asana, Pranayama practice with basic understanding. When simple principles are followed, great things follow without fantasising by the mind and intellect. This is exactly what I was aspiring for in the quagmire of philosophies in which I was caught.
It was a great experience in the most practical way. Learning Yoga in Gurukula system, time for deeper contemplation and elevating my spirits were the main purpose of my Yoga Vacation which was abundantly fulfilled. This is a great place to learn and teach yourself the best curriculum for Yoga designed by Swami Vishnudevananda, a senior disciple of Swami Shivananda. Five Points for health and happiness incorporated in daily routine, being Proper Exercise (Asana), Proper Breathing (Pranayama), Proper relaxation (Savasana), Proper Diet and Positive Thinking/meditation (Vedantha and Dhyana). I am fortunate that I got a real break in this wonderful Journey of Yoga and Vedantha through these five simple principles taught and practiced in Shivananda Ashram.
Hari Om Tatsat – Jai Swami Shivananda – Jai Swami Vishnudevananda.
*******
References:
*The Sivananda Yoga Vedantha Dhanwantri Ashram, founded by Swami Vishnudevananda, a disciple of Swami Sivananda in 1978 {part of International Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centre founded in 1959}. Dhanwantri Ashram at Neyyar Dam, Thiruvananthapuram,, is situated in the foothills of Sahyadri mountains of South India and conducts Yoga Vacation courses as well as Teacher’s training courses throughout the year. One of the most rigorous and well trained teacher’ training programmes conducted here.
{https://sivananda.org.in/yoga-vacation/}
** Kalipara Temple near Neyyar dam
{https://goo.gl/maps/RfByyCa7qZhAZ6yQ9}
***About Agasthya Malai –Sage Agasthya said to have meditated on these hills and the natural beauty of the location is ideal for practice of Yoga, Vedantha and Ayurveda to rejuvenate body, mind and the Soul. Treks conducted by Forest department and you may need three to four days to reach temple on top of the hill.
{https://highrangephotography.com/stories/agasthyamalai-a-mountain-of-significance}
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Health - A long journey from 1996 to 2021
Background story – implications of pre dispositions/susceptible tendencies
As far as record goes and by memories / tell tales, our forefathers stayed at Malur taluk of Kolar Dist, earlier known as Malligepura, as many jasmine flower growers were there once upon a time. My grandfather Shri MR Krishna Rao (MRK) a teacher by profession, came to Bangalore during 1940s after his retirement.
Three generations of our lineage were teachers starting from Malur Raamaih to MRK and K. Seetharamaiah, my father. All were either named after Rama or Krishna !! Strict disciplinarians they were, having a great reputation in their times so much that our grand father used to sit along with Panchas for dispute resolution of the near by villages, even though he was officially just a School-master. He was also a Scout teacher and we have a proud photo of him with children and also participated in freedom struggle.
An interesting story is that there was a theft in the village in which we lost many gold jewellery during a marriage ceremony. MRK had only Son and seven daughters to take care. It is said that there is always one or the other daughter at all times in our house for delivering a baby. The Scout programme is said to be a fund raiser for compensating the monetary loss caused due to theft which would have otherwise strained relationship with in laws. Those days anything was possible to help the school-master!!
After shifting to Bangalore in search of better education and career, they stayed close to Malleshwaram in Bangalore. Appa was later transferred to Chamarajpet Middle School, making the family to move to Gavipuram area. It appears that one day the land Lady “Hombalamma” scolded my mother on the ground that there was a paralytic patient (Appa’s maternal uncle Mr.Vasudevachar, another interesting character of our family whom we will see later) at home and daily chores for his “U ma he” was disgusting. This irritated my father so much; and without second thoughts he decided to move out of rented house.
Within a month our new house was built in three days during 1966 for a meagre Rs.3,500/-. I was a new born baby and there was all new mud construction in a remote part of underdeveloped Bangalore. My ill health as a child is attributed to cold and in hospitable condition’s of this new area in revenue pocket of Bangalore. You can see this prediction in my horoscope also – child will have “Sheetha badhe” – cold related issues. Also, Appa lost his money purse in Ganesha temple on the day I was born and I was also branded as born in “Chor Nakshatra” !!
The family of K Seetharamaiah settled down in Srinagar and I have fond memories of Amba Bhavani School nearby, where I had to literally run across the small hilly terrain to reach school. It was scary to see and we used to run through the path. By this time, Akkaji was also married and settled in Nanjamba Agrahara whih is just across the Kempambudhi lake, which we used to fondly walk through. There was also a Hindu Cemetery and in fact initially we could even see the glazing pyres as there were no buildings in between.
Visiting Akka - Bhava in Chamarajpet was one of our regular routines. We two Kitty and Cheeni were ferocious kids who like to play all the time. WE also had a special task some times to go the Akkaji’s factory to give lunch. Family of four with Andalamma being the second daughter and we two were happy enough, even though there was generally a shortage of food and comforts of life. We grew well in our own secluded place as there were not many Brahmin families around and we were not encouraged to make friends from the area.
Though Appa had no inhibition about the caste formations, Amma was bit ortho. She was a strict disciplinarian as far as “vratha-nema” and would not drink water during her upavas vrath. I remember she climbing Tirumala hills without taking any food till Darshan of Lord Venkateshwara. We never followed ritualistic path, as appa was very rational and encouraged us to develop good conscience and made us to listen to it more than inculcating a god fearing attitude.
Following our own Conscience, maintaining integrity of character, is what he use to tell always and made us follow through out. We loved to listen to stories from Amma and every summer vacation is fully of learning new things, languages, going to relatives as far as Yelahanka to visit our grand father’s house. We had good entertainment in those days with Upendra, Radhakrishna and Manju, our cousins.
The other places of frequent visit being Kaval - byrasandra to meet our Alamelu atte family and another aunt Nagatthe family, at Yadagondanahalli. Distinctly remember the fabulous treatment we use to get in these places, as Appa was very much liked by everyone and known for his generosity to take care of his nephews and nieces. He is the only son in the family and all the sisters look upon him as a saviour in their troubled times. We got royal treatment in these places. I even remember a long journey to Basavapattana far off in North Karnataka where my maternal uncle Ramu Mava was working. He had three daughters and we were the future possible’s !!.
We grew up and studied at local schools and colleges. Ashu studied science with Biology and Appa wanted her to be a teacher. Hence she also did B.Ed. As destiny decided, she could not continue for long as a teacher and joined ESIC. Seeing the difficulty of a Factory life of Akkaji, it was a conscious decision to make her join a government department. We use to call her Andalamma as she has good appetite and little plumy.
Her future took a turn after marriage with TVS and they settled down in Azadnagar, after a brief stint at Mumbai. Their two adorable kids Ajay and Sheru were the ones whose child hood opened up our own dreams and particularly, Ajay was my tryst with a young life and made me feel very proud, as if he is my son. Sheru was so innocent and sweet, that I used to call him Mankanna. Both these little cuties were the centre of attraction and when Ajay was born I was almost free of my studies and enjoyed taking care of the kids.
Kitty joined BSNL after some stint in private sector and settled down in life in 1988. The bride was from a well to do family and we had issues back home, as in any middle class Brahmin family. Quietly we tried to settle down, as we had lost Amma few years before and Ashu has moved out after marriage. Three gentlemen (?) with one dignified lady member had difficulties in adjusting and we pulled on with new life of Kitty, trying to blend into a normal family life which was shattered due to loss of Amma in 1984. After Ashu’s marriage in 1985, we were literally orphaned and three of us had tough times till Kitty got married in 1988, creating more expectations in our joint futures.
I started earning immediately after my II PUC and worked in an Engine Overhauling concern as Typist/Assistant. My first pay was just Rs.70/- and I also further continued to work in the typing instituted as Instructor. Income earned was just sufficient for my needs to buy some books spend on my own. After losing Amma in my I year B.Com, the life became very dreaded and tough, and may be I lost a few more sentiments left out in the rational mind.
I finished Degree and joined ICWA for better career prospects. Before I could take exams, I had to join IT Department at Mysore and it was a real turning point of my life. Knowing the promotion aspects, I took some competitive exams to excel and became an Inspector during 1990. My father was proud with my achievements and he used to boast with all known people that my son is an Inspector!!
All these years of my growth seem to be quite dry as I did not enjoy most of it in a very positive manner. I had no plans to get married also and probably would have remained a vagabond, had I not asked a question to Veenu on the fateful day of 15th Jan 1994. We had gone for a long walk to Sri Ramana Maharshi Ashram in Mekhri Circle and after visiting the Shrine came out to sit on a big rock for a while. I initiated the discussion with her to seek her opinion about future course of action after completing degree.
Having lost her father very early age and some of her external beauty due to accident, I felt it was now our responsibility to take care. Just like Appa took care of his nephews and nieces, I also thought it is my job. I wanted to know whether she would like to work/study or get married. More importantly, marriage was the main topic.
Surprisingly and shockingly, she said in very clear terms that she wants to marry ME only, without any second thoughts. I never knew her intention though I knew that she had liking for my qualities. I used to entertain her with lot of stories, both known and cooked up ones, which she used to enjoy during her visit to our house. She even pretend that she is not well or gone to sleep to avoid her going back to parents house. She had admirable qualities in work and I had a liking for that only. After giving a brief thought, I consented and our LIFE journey started. Many times, I don’t remember when we got married, but I know the date on which I got involved in this proposal!!!!
With the above background, I will now shift to Health issues in the family.
Ours was a con-sanguial marriage (marriage within the family) and Akkaji also had same. It was therefore double con-sanguial on both sides. Even before I got married, I was very health conscious due to history of early deaths in our family and this factor made us more conscious. One of my deepest regrets in life is that both my parents did not live longer to see our progress. We ourselves were very unfortunate and never saw our grand parents. Whenever I see some one grand parenting and great grand parenting, I feel terrible. One of my child hood days dream was to live for more than 100 years and see all my great grandchildren. Of course now I don’t have that kind of interest!! It is only a question of remaining relevant to the present.
From the age of 12, I had observed Amma suffering from health issues, particularly stomach related issues and eventually leaving us when she was barely 45. Her physique was quite fragile and delicate ever since I remember her. Mentally strong but physiologically not. She also had a traumatic life after marriage with many mis carriages and in getting used to rustic life my father could offer her. Her main complaint was acidity resulted in surgery of appendix/ulcerated part which later got converted into Stomach Cancer. Two consequent surgeries virtually made her fragile and she could not withstand the onslaught of medicines given. Her metabolism had gone bad for several years and I have seen her barely able to eat two idlies after the surgery.
Next deep impact was the devastating death of Bhavaji due to Kidney failure at his prime age, leaving two vulnerable daughters at tender age to their fate, an aged mother who solely depended on him and a loving wife who cared for him. The kind of health issues faced by both, I have seen very closely and tried to analyse them at very young age. Both did not live longer to fulfil their obligation towards their siblings and many of our infirmities in personality, immaturities and foolishness, might be due to their absence in most formative part of our lives. I never wanted this to happen to our future generations.
As I look back now, we have a great history of early deaths, untimely departures in the whole family, which I have tried to trace upto two-to-three generations. Before going into those details, I will narrate our sojourn from marriage till date relating to Health issues, in the above background and certain hard decisions taken to avoid such issues in our own case.
Bhavaji was a very fine personality, well mannered, highly intellectual, well read and soft spoken person. He was a kind of role model for us and we admire adore and seek his wisdom always. In spite of all his virtues, what made him to leave early, was a million-dollar question for me. The kind of trauma and tension prevailing in our family during his ill health, is un forgettable. Why it happened, if we objectively analyse, it appears that he had all the good qualities with a great taste for food.
He was a good eater and connoisseur of food and movies. I remember his penchant for different dishes prepared in various hotels and he used to enjoy them with friends and family. He lost his father even before he was born and there is a family history of early death. This habbit of eating tasty food probably landed him in trouble. He was a long standing diabetic since the age of 30 and this has finally resulted in kidney failure at the age of 44.
With all the virtues in life and wisdom of life, he couldn’t stay longer with family. This is one of the main reasons which imprinted in my mind that we should never go after taste alone. Developing a taste is one thing and being addicted to eating tasty food is another. I never commented on the quality of food and mostly took it as my destiny to eat. My eating habits were different from young age itself and I never preferred to eat anything in between meals. Home food was my favourite and I remember, even after coming back from search duty, I used to have dinner at midnight as late as 2 a.m. and then only go to sleep. This ideology got imbued into my personality, when I saw two untimely deaths in our family.
Secondly, my mother’s early departure, was devastating to us particularly, Appa suffered loneliness, became highly irritable and felt purposeless. He used to find purpose in going out in the pretesxt of some odd job, and service to society in his own way. Amma was a stubborn lady with a delicate body and used to be constantly worrying all the time, which probably caused her ulcers and later turned into Cancer. She could not face tough life offered by Appa and sulked for long. All these are my inferences and I do not really know.
Journey from Naturopathy to Homeopathy:
After the marriage, we took an informal owe to maintain health in the most natural way. I had attended Yoga programme at Maradi Subbaiah Chowltry premises in my earlier days and we both attended a Naturopathy course at that time. In this course, we were also taught about acupressure, reiki and other systems of healing along with naturopathy. Incidentally, we were also introduced to Vipassana and both of us did a two 10 day course, which got us into the field of philosophy put to use. This is actually a turning point which made both of us aware of our strength and weaknesses and the ways to over come, besides giving a perspective of life.
Veenu was against any allopathic treatment as she also suffered due to over medication at her early days. She had a weak constitution and parents tried their best to give all kinds of food to build her strength. Every time she fell sick, there will be a medical intervention at the immediate instance and she has taken allopathic drugs and carried a weak constitution. She realised this and practiced yoga and naturopathy more vigorously. Though we can’t blame the parents, their ignorance and too much concern for the first baby costed her health. Probably they were also scared of their con-sanguial marriage and the complications noted in the second child.
With renewed vigour both started practicing alternative method since 1996 and our drugless journey started. Meanwhile, she did some advanced courses in healing and I had also an occasion to pursue homeopathic studies for long. As naturopathy may not be completely suitable for kids, I started to take interest in life sciences and studied further. In fact during the first pregnancy, Veenu went to SVYASA to get yogic assistance and stayed there under a special programme for pregnant women for 15 days.
In spite of all the precautions and preparations made, the first baby born through caesarean and this shattered our confidence. When we saw the medical complications and the diagnosis made, treatment suggested for the one month old kid, heavens virtually fell and we had no one to give support. At this point of time, we were introduced to Dr.Devaki Devadas, who was primarily a paediatrician in St John’s Hospital later converted into homeopathic practice.
We desperately wanted to avoid Allopathic treatment and finally, we got an alternative. But every time we visit her, our EGO used to get hurt a lot as she was very shrewed and blunt. We couldn’t argue and silently suffered in long waits, frequent visits. Her main requirement was that there could not be any parallel medical support and it has to be pure classical homeopathy. No vaccination is to be administered and it is complete homeo cure which she guaranteed. We had seen one instance in family and we had no option. Her faith in the system was unflinchable and we had no option to believe in ourselves and give a try. The amount of pressure and tension at the crucial moments of his treatment is really unexplainable.
By god’s grace and our faith in Homeo sailed us through and both the children are on right track without any kind of vaccination till date (except recent one due to compulsion of college, which is now antidoted with homeo medicine !!). To come to this stage, it was not easy. Since the day Chinmaya was born and even before, we faced the dilemma. When he was a month old baby, the doctor called me for a discussion and suggested surgical procedure. After understanding the issue and discussion with other doctors, we took a stand that we will not allow any kind of surgical intervention at this age. Doctor was very upset and made a remark in the record that father is not agreeing and wants second opinion. We did all kinds of diagnostic tests suggested including a test in Nuclear medicine – which I don’t really know what it is. It was a painful test where the functioning of kidneys is assessed by injecting chemicals into kidney through urethra. I can never forgive myself for the pain and trauma caused to little beloved one.
Our tryst with Homeo was not very smooth and we had to face a tough doctor who will snub us for any enquiry and we had to wait for hours patiently. In fact this waiting has helped us in realising that the health can be regained only by sustained efforts and time given for cure. Once we are introduced to her maternal uncle Dr. Megharajan at Davanagare and it was a great blessing. He was a professor at IIT and resigned to do social service and practice homeopathy.
Divine soul as he was, I had a personal rapport and great admiration for his philosophical bent of mind and crisp understanding of homeo principles. He was a classical homeopath doing great service to patients in and around Davanagere. They originally belong to Tamilnadu and came long ago to settle down at Hiriyur and homeo health camps are regularly done for the benefit of villagers around.
His nephew is Dr.Rangarajan who is moulded by the principles of his uncle and continuing to do service to the needy patients. Our interactions with Dr.Rangarajan also made us understand the basics of Classical homeopathy and he eventually started teaching us the science behind homeopathy. I had an occasion to learn Homeo for about one year in Mysore conducted by World Teacher’s Trust and deeply inspired by its efficacy in curing chronic diseases. This helped me to strengthen the belief in the system of medicine which we are administering to both the sons since birth. In fact, for Yagnik it is before birth and he is under homeo care without any allopathic medicine/vaccinations.
Principles of Homeo:
The basic premise of Homeopathy is that there is a LIFE FORCE which takes care of most of the ailments bothering us and it is inherent nature of any being. The fundamental principle is that Similia Similibus curenthar – meaning similar cures to similar. Any medicinal substance which gives raise to a symptom in a healthy person (as per proving made with hundreds of volunteers and sometimes doctor himself); will cure the disease which produces a symptom in a sick person. In short, if a patient is getting symptoms due to disease, a remedy (drug) causing similar symptoms is administered.
The remedy will trigger the symptom to an optimum level and seek a proper response from te LIFE FORCE which will start working. The medicinal substances are from plant kingdom, animal kingdom, minerals, energy levels, and even diseased /dead tissues!! These are extracted and potentised to the required level. When a substance is diluted in the proportion of 1 x 100 and again 1 x 100 for nearly 30 times, it is called potency of 30C which is the normal minimum potency given. (One part of substance mixed with 99 parts of alcohol/liquid base and from this dilution one part is taken and again 99 parts is mixed. Like this 30 times is 30C).
You may not be even able to find out the chemical properties of the medicine originally extracted and how it works is a miracle. They say it may be water memory, energy spikes and chemical signature which remains after potentisation. These potencies go upto 200C and now we have 0/1, 0/2…. Potencies which are still more diluted in centesimal ratio. It only shows that the homeo remedies work at a deeper level which may be beyond molecular, cellular or even sub atomic levels. There are a number of researches which show that the remedies at very deeply to the level of miasms; ( genetic pre dispositions for which there are constitutional remedies in homeo.
When I further completed another online course by Dr.Bhatia for two to three months, I could get vast amount of material to substantiate the claims made by Homeopaths. Some of the literatures and research articles written by Dr. Rajan Sankaran strengthened our belief about this system of medicine as it is very close to Naturopathy, where we allow the body to cure itself and give support. We basically turned to Homeo only for the kids as they may not be able to follow principles of Naturopathy and may need assistance. Dr Rajan Sankaran’’s works on the nature of dreams and its indications in treating through homeo medicine is amazing. Deep insight into human psychology and also the complex nature of physiological systems which we are trying to understand/cure were obtained through this.
With all the above struggles and adventures/mis-adventures over a period of more than 25 years, we have come to believe that there won’t be any need for major medical assistance. It is basically because of the fact that this human machine is self contained, self healing and self reconstructing mechanism which needs to be handled with due care. These systems have evolved over millions of years and its too naïve to measure them in terms of numbers which are randomized on the basis of a few hundred persons. All these parameters beginning from pulse rate, temperature, blood pressure and now the latest, Oxygen levels are dynamic in nature.
Any treatment has to be holistic and the method of treatment has to consider a person as one whole unit requiring attention. You can’t treat your skin without treating the Kidneys / lungs which is giving problem. Most of the so called diseases like fever, cold, head aches are only symptoms and at best a reaction to a situation created from outside and some times due to inherent pre dispositions. If they are persisting over a period of time and creating trouble, you may need medical intervention. Not everyone getting wet in rain would catch cold and we have to distinguish between the root cause and the maintaining cause of a disease.
Unless we understand the problem and its root cause in physiological terms it is not possible to cure. All these diseases are actually an expression of the body which we fail to respond properly with proper life style, food habits and diet. Understanding the language of body is paramount importance than understanding the parameters given in numbers and ratios which can be very misleading when we look at a person a whole. They also create more and more inhibitions and fear psychosis and do not allow us think about the present and clear danger which is expressed by the body in its own language.
Finally coming to our encounter with Corona, I believe, I got it during first wave itself and it was asymptomatic. The trouble was least, lasting about a week with mild fever, body pain and head ache with loss of smell/taste. It was not alarming and it died down without any kind of medication. But during April, when we did the function at Bangalore, its effects were severe and suffering was longer/intense. The latest mutant (B.1.617 – Delta version) appears to be more infectious and troublesome. However, Homeo did not fail us and with proper diet and rest, all four of us successfully came out unscathed. There is a great rejuvenation after the recovery; my back ache, sleep apnea and other small issues have gone for a toss. We are more confident of facing any future variant since our bodies are more equipped now.
It’s very clear that if you can face the disease without much medical intervention and hospitalization, it is going to go naturally. More and more medicines would definitely reduce your natural immunity and the resistance artificially caused would invite more superior variants as a reaction. There are studies that indicate vaccination would induce more mutations and infections. Probably this is what happened during second wave in our case also. It is an admitted fact that vaccination does not give immunity from getting infected again and some of the vaccines have not even cleared Phase 3 trials. It is expressly given as an Emergency usage basis which indicates that it should not be administered very routinely.
Natural methods of healing, alternative systems of medicine – (a misnomer, since everyone believes that Allopathy is the main system and others are only alternatives !!) - can do miracles with a proper understanding of our physiology, nature of disease and the kind of treatment required in each and every case. There cannot be an attitude of “One hat fits all” especially in health matters as each individual is unique carrying genetic pre dispositions of multitude nature. It requires a will to persevere with the process of getting cured and public faith clubbed with government patronage which is very much lacking, probably due to pharma lobby and vested interest of medical practitioners’.
The times ahead would not be as simple as before, due to over conscious health behavior, undue health awareness artificially triggered by the insecurity caused by Virus and of course our own ageing factors. We are going to see a new world order creating unnecessary dependency on medical support and exploitation by the privileged few. We have to gear up ourselves to survive in the tough world which is going to be. Make your choices wisely with proper background study and develop right perspective about the nature of Health. All the very best in your endeavor to remain with the nature for a purpose living ahead and to achieve over all well being. Thank you for your time and patience in reading a lengthy passage.
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Mantra Deekshe - Swamy Gautamanandaji Maharaj
It was a long pursuit of scriptural studies, mostly with breaks and internal turmoil’s, doubts, side tracking of the goals, which finally culminated into me taking a practical step in the form of MANTRA DEEKSHE, which happened exactly one month ago. This was like a total turnaround from a mere pursuit of philosophical studies, for satisfying the intellect and the ego, into a simple practice of spirituality which looks amazingly powerful than all the studies put together. It is a new beginning and a very big step in my LIFE. A small back ground as to what and all happened till now….
I started my earliest studies with Ramayana and Mahabharatha during my child hood days and also a bit of Bhagavadgitha. Lord Ram was my favourite deity and Aaradhya Daiva. I was attracted to the teachings of Lord Gautama Buddha and tried to understand him through the practice of Vipassana. As an ardent follower of Naturopathy as a way of life and admirer of Yogic Sciences, did some studies in these aspects of life. I got firmly rooted in the Indian way of natural life and Yoga as a method for a healthy living. Deeply inspired by Mahatma Gandhi I had full faith in the nature’s ability to heal itself. In the meanwhile, I had the privilege of studying Homeopathy for some time (for the sake of my children) and highly appreciated its curative abilities at very subtle levels of body and mind.
My formal study of Vedic literature commenced during 2010 when I started my initial studies in Prasthana trayas through Chinmaya International Studies. It was not exactly a scriptural study and I got a glimpse through the Foundation and Advanced Course in Vedantha, as expounded by Adi Shankara. The huge knowledge base in the form of Bhashyas, Sutras to Vedic lore deeply stirred my intellectual hunger and set a direction for my further studies. A glimpse of the advaitic thought mesmerized me and I got deeply attracted towards it.
This initial attraction for “Advaitha” became stronger when I studied Complete works of Vivekananda and his vision about our ancient culture opened up a new vista of knowledge. I could easily correlate the teachings of Shri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, through his devout and courageous, monastic student Swamy Vivekananda. It is not a co incidence that I started this journey in “Ramakrishna Ashram”, Basavanagudi, Bengaluru long back during my High school days in 1980s. I used to regularly visit this place and the divine rock on which Mata Shri Sharada Devi sat and meditated. I never knew that one day I would be part of this great lineage through the process of Mantra Deeksha.
I was very sceptical since beginning about following any particular method / order in the path of spirituality. I never felt that I should follow someone or something, which might be due to egoistic ideas of self-realisation through own efforts. My recent visit to Ramanasramam, in Tiruvannamalai kindled my desire to strongly cling on to one particular method as there are too many roads leading to the same place. I had a strong feeling that the journey so far was only theoretical and as that of a bystander without any real progress, except for accumulation of knowledge and confusing ideas. Though it all looked very peaceful and steady, my inner core was with turmoil and waiting for any small provocation. This made me send a mail to Swamy Gautamanandaji Maharaj and within a few hours I got a firm reply also !!
As a preparation to this great event scheduled for 30-09-2019 I had to follow certain procedures which began nearly a month before. After registering my name, I started reading three simple but powerful books on the “Holy Trio” – Shri Ramakrishna, Sharada Maa and Swamy Vivekananda. We were also instructed to study a book “Spiritual Initiation – What it is ?”. This book is a compilation of material culled from the three articles written by Swami Bhuteshananda Maharaj, former president of the Ramakrishna Order, and lucidly explains the need of guru in leading the spiritual aspirants along the spiritual path by giving a formula called mantra repeating which they can reach the Supreme Goal. It is a very handy material for those thinking of taking spiritual initiation. Most of my doubts got cleared with this and I determined to plunge into this great journey.
On the appointed day, I went early in the morning with specified things for Deeksha programme. Cheerful devotees were there already helping us in setting things right. There was a small briefing previous evening by the Secretary Swamy as to the dos and don’ts for the “D” day. My mind was full of reverence and anxiety for a new beginning. About 105 aspirants were there, including 45 students starting a new journey. We were asked to keep our things in a very orderly manner and sit at the appointed place. Every step to be followed for the next six hours was told in great detail. We had to stay put for the instructions and completely pay attention to the procedures. It was the hall mark of disciplined monastic order getting reflected in this simple but significant ceremony of the Ramakrishna Math. We have to very systematically follow the steps and it was to the precision that things happened like in a dream.
Swamy Gautamanandaji Maharaj was very kind and patient, explaining the whole process in minute detail and inspiring us to follow a new path of glory. His melodious but firm voice and reassuring smiles in between took me to a different plane, and our flight had just taken off with his energies backing all of us. What exactly happened between 6.30 am to 11.30 am cannot be described in words, but there was an elevation of our minds and the Japa journey has begun. Through out the program, I was completely engrossed with devotion and there was a subtle excitement about the new journey.
Swamy Gautamanandaji Maharaj also took Mantra Deekshe in RK Math, Basavanagdi, Bengaluru in 1956 and it was our great privilege to follow this lineage. Shri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa – Swamy Brahmananda – Swamy Veereshananda – Swamy Gautamananda …. (Brahmananda, born Rakhal Chandra Ghosh, was one of the direct disciples of Ramakrishna and the first president of the Ramakrishna Math and Ramakrishna Mission. He was born in Sikra Kulingram near Basirhat, Kolkata. Ramakrishna recognised him as his 'spiritual son'. He became the first president of the mission.).
Its one month now and the practice of Japa is going on with a particular pace and I am sure there will be more to come. During the last one month, I also read “Japa Yoga” by Shivananda which was found to be having very useful and practical tips. I tried to understand the Aratikram of RK Math and read a book by Swamy Harshananda “Aaraatrika Gaanagalu” which explained the meaning and significance of i) Khandcana Bhava Bandhana, ii) Om Hreem ritham iii) Sarva mangala mangalye iv) Prakratim – paramam, four stotras during Sandhayarathi. I had only heard them during Aarathi and got fascinated with the rhythm and melody of the Stotras and now I got a chance to understand the significance and meaning.
This is just a small narrative of the divine experience I had, a month ago and I wrote this to express my deep gratitude for Pujya Swamy Gautamanandaji Maharaj who very lovingly initiated us into this Holy order of Ramakrishna Math. The journey has begun in a real sense and a distinct link got established with this small step.
Shri Gurubhyonamaha – Hari Om Tatsat - Shri Ramakrishnarpanamasthu.
S SRINIVAS
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ARUNACHALA RAMANA - Achalam to Arpanam – A Silent journey towards Self (Six days and six nights of solitude and peace)
Achalam to Arpanam – A Silent journey towards Self
(Six days and six nights of solitude and peace)
a. I was aspiring for a long time to be away from the hustle and bustle of LIFE for uplifting my low spirits and regain some good health. Initially I thought of going for a rejuvenation camp at Ujire – Naturopathy hospital; later decided that the mind is the one which require more of attention than body. This made me search for an opening. My next thought was to join a third Vipassana course for full ten days and I started scouting for good centers. Dharmashala was very inspiring and another center in Sikkim attracted me. But the cost and time effectiveness was an issue.
When I saw that there is an active Center near Tiruvannamalai, I decided that this is THE place which I was longing for quite some time. I had planned a family visit to this divine place blessed with the presence of Shri Ramana Maharshi and could not make it for long. During a recent visit to Bangalore, Veenu bought a book written by Arthur Osborne – Teachings of Ramana Maharshi and this actually kindled my silent quest with life.
b. The very purpose of visit to Ramanashramam was to get the required equilibrium in the presence of Master of Silence and to continue with the practice of Vipassana at Dhamma Arunachala. One good old friend came very handy to get an accommodation at Ramanasramam and the name of the Guest house was “ACHALAM”.
During our last visit (more than 12 years ago) we could not stay in the Ashram and were very disappointed. It also occurred to me that Chinmaya would love this place and made him join me for this journey. Time was a serious constraint with two Charges to handle. The moment I could finish an urgent work at Office, booked early morning flight to Bangalore to save time and took a bus to Tiruvannamalai. I was worried about Chinmaya getting bugged with journey and my plans of not planning anything did not happen !!! This was deliberately planned to be one aspect in developing acceptance to the circumstances making ourselves stronger. But I had to restrain myself to give this experience to Chinmaya.
c. We landed at Ashram at around 4.30 pm and to our great disappointment the request for stay was denied. After much persuasion and talk, we were allowed to stay. As per Ashram rules, one should send a mail and after getting a confirmation only we are allowed to stay. This is to avoid tourists, visitors and not so serious devotees from thronging and disturbing the serenity of Ashram. Moreover, there was also a serious water crisis in Tamilnadu.
We immediately went to Achalam and get ourselves ready for a visit of Ashram as the time was very less. We took a list of activities and scrupulously followed. The first thing which attracted is Veda parayana by cute little boys in the Gurukul. We had a short talk with Shri Srinivasa Murthy, an erstwhile Doctor from Bangalore and presently a permanent resident of Ashram and in charge of stay. He could give a glimpse of the teachings and life story of Sri Ramana Maharshi and also present activities of Ashram.
It was fascinating to listen to his composed voice about the teachings of Ramana and his life story. Our journey towards Self had begun with a little conversation with this nice gentleman.
d. I had already started reading a book written by Arthur Osborne – Teachings of Ramana Maharshi and I found that the teaching is entirely based on Advaitha, which was quite close to my heart. The direct method of Self enquiry taught by the Maharshi was a mesmerizing thought and I got deeply immersed into it. This was also a triggering point to visit Ramanashramam. I had to postpone my solitary internal journey as I had an obligation to take care of Chinmaya. End of the day we were so hungry and had to retreat to the benches of Lunch hall.
After eating to the brim, again it was paining to walk back to the guest house. When we were hungry there was pain-ache, and when we loaded our stomach, there was again pain. I told Chinmaya that as per Adi Sankara, hunger is a disease and the food is its medicine !! The context with which it was told could not be elaborated as we were also sleepy after a long journey.
e. Next day early morning our quest continued to test physical stamina as we undertook “Girivalam” literally meaning “Giri Pradakshina” – a walk around the sacred hill “Arunachala” which is about 14 kms. Started at around 4 a.m. and Chinmaya did not really like it due to sprained ankle. We stopped several times and I was trying to encourage him that it is a test of stamina and many devotees were doing rounds. Due to his injured angle joints, he got exhausted after about 10 kms and I saw no further point in continuing. Took an auto and went to Arunachaleshwara Temple – one of the largest Shivan – temples in South India.
This temple is known to be Agni Lingam and we actually experienced the heat inside sanctum sanctorum. It was just like entering an Oven and heat penetrating from all sides at 360 degrees. It was fascinating to see so much heat generated only at this place and we enjoyed morning serene Darshan of Lord Shiva. By this time, it was time for breakfast and before that we had to visit his better half which we did quickly. After coming out, we had temple prasadam – Puliyogere, Sakra Pongal and there was no need for any other breakfast.
f. This is a very ancient and sacred temple where Ramana Maharshi came in his younger days from Madurai. It’s a huge temple with four entrances with the majestic background of Arunachala hills. Ramana renounced everything in the pond and became a saint in this holy place. It is said that he sold his ear rings and took a train and later walked upto Arunachala only to contemplate on SELF. As an young boy, he had a near death experience and got self-realized in the intensity of his experience.
His teachings were mostly based on noble SILENCE and many foreign devotees carried his message across the country. His direct method of Self enquiry based in Silence was the precursor to my next part of the program at Dhamma Arunachala. I may be too small and beginner to write about his teachings and can only boast that we took our life turning decision in Ramana Ashram in Bangalore. (This is where myself and Veenu took an instant decision to get married!! It all started here.)
g. Back in Ashram, we meticulously planned to attend all the daily activities and attended one by one. Ashram has a definite schedule from 4.00 am in the morning till 9 pm. They follow strictly all the programs and we couldn’t miss any. It includes chanting of Vedas twice a day, Puja followed by Narayana Seva (poor feeding) reading from the teachings of Ramana, Tamil Parayana and selected Sanskrit Compositions of Adi Shankara.
There’s an Ashram Gurukul where they teach Krishna Yajurveda to young lads. There will be a sumptuous lunch at 11.30 sharp and only Ashram invitees and residents are allowed to take food. Chinmaya was fully satisfied with the variety and quality of food served and again stomach got filled up till the brim which made us sleep for more than an hour in the guest house.
h. We came back to Ashram to climb the hill which involves about 1.4 kms trek uphill to reach Skandashram and climbing down to Virupaksha Cave. Earlier days, we used to visit a number of caves in the deep forest area which is now prohibited by the Department. This is where Ramana stayed for more than 17 years and occasionally used to visit Ashram when his mother insisted to come and see him here.
It was an interesting story that one sage from Karnataka named Virupaksha came here more than 400 years ago and the villagers were taking care of him on the hill side cave. They bring food every day and have darshan of this saintly man. One day he said not to come for a day and next day when they visited, it was only a heap of ashes in the cave and the man has disappeared. It is believed that he left his body in the form of ashes and there is a mound in the cave where Ramana meditated for long.
i. It’s now time to explore Ashram book depot where we could get food for thought. The atmosphere in Ashram is so serene and peaceful that we could see a number of peacocks walking along with us within Ashram premises. It was photography time and they were posing well to the DSLR. Chinmaya had never seen such a calm and peaceful place and he thoroughly enjoyed its serenity and tranquility.
Surprisingly, when we sat for a while in meditation hall, time flicked away like anything. He thought that it is about 10 minutes and it was actually more than 35 minutes. It was an amazing experience just to be in this place doing nothing visibly, but it greatly enhanced our energies and mental composure.
j. With peaceful and pleasant memories, Chinmaya left alone to Bangalore and I continued my solo journey to a place called Perumbakkam (10 kms from Tiruvannamalai) to reach Dhamma Arunachala, an organic Vipassana Center. Co incidentally the cottages were beautifully named as Achalam, Anuttaram, Anantham and finally
“Arpanam” where I stayed in solitary confinement for three full days. This is where theory followed with practice of Silence. When I was reading the Book mentioned earlier, I could find references to other practical methods of self-realization which included a practice of observing breath as a means to contemplate Self, as explained by Maharshi.
There is a direct link with this method and the teachings of Buddha which came in the form of Vipassana as a tool to eradicate deep rooted Sankharas (habit patterns) to purify the mind. The teachings focused on a method of observing the sensations caused by the defilement's of mind and allowing them to evolve and evaporate as we keep observing with a Sakshi bhaav (witness-state).
k. For the next three days, it was noble SILENCE which gave us company along with organic food (Red rice, mint tea, totally unpolished cereals used for preparing food). The entire structure is mostly made up of mud and bricks made locally, and of course Mangalore tiles used for roof. There was also Pagoda halls for serious meditators in the background of Arunachala hills.
A complete plan of rainwater harvesting and no wastage is allowed. We are not allowed to use detergents and the likes to spoil the environs. The place was very windy and hot but natural atmosphere without any disturbance from outside world, except honking of a bus at a gap of every one hour.
l. Experiences of a short course in Vipassana only enhanced my understanding of human nature and my own Self. It used to be around 13 hours of meditation in a day with complete silence. It was a refreshing observation of the Self for three days, including my own low back pain which kept on bothering me throughout the sitting. Of course, it also helped me to observe some deep-rooted defilement's coming to the surface and passing away.
Nothing stays for eternity and the principle of “Anicha” (a Pali word for impermanence) got deep rooted in the mind. Back to Bangalore, I could read some more teachings of Maharishi and they just Silenced my mind without further doubts and queries. This all looked like a new beginning and we came back Home with bodies energized and mind refreshed with Silence.
m. It is said that solitude is an attitude of mind and the real silence is in achieving a still mind. A detached man is therefore, always in solitude and he need not be running away from the hustle and bustle of LIFE. As per the teachings of Maharishi, the abstract knowledge is transmitted through EGO in the form of thoughts and words.
Words are the great grandsons of this original source and if words can produce an effect of this proportion, how much more powerful preaching through silence might be. The inner silence is self-surrender and means living without the sense of Ego.
Silence is said to be perennial and speech is only an interruption. All these gems of thoughts got correlated in deep contemplation and we returned ourselves to Home. These words are not exactly mine and liberally picked up from the teachings of Ramana Maharshi.
To look deeply into the eyes of Ramana itself gives us a sense of silent introspection and a re-assurance that we all can remain in long lasting eternal peace through silencing the mind and making a self-enquiry as to
WHO AM I ???, which is the very essence of teaching of Ramana Maharshi.
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Phuentsholling to Darjeeling - A travellogue
P-Ling to D-Ling & Tiger Nest to Tiger Hill -
(a Long family sojourn for 9 Days and 8 Nights)
This is in continuation of a few travelogues on account of journeys initiated by my bro-Kitty, an avid trekker, traveler and explorer of places. At his behest we could do Amarnath Yatra, Venkatachalam trek and a few more local treks. As usual he is the one who made us think about a long family program to North-east. This time we got lucky to see North eastern part of Himalayas and planned to visit the land of wellness measured high by Happiness Index.
You must have guessed right. It is Bhutan a tiny nation surrounded by China, Nepal and India. Unlike earlier times, I could not immediately write about this trip and due to lapse of time, I might have missed the details, but the happy impressions which we carry in our minds stay for longer till we re-visit this place in a different season. Hence this travelogue would definitely find a revised version in the years to come. We all eagerly wait for another round in this Constitutional monarchy and
THE LAND OF SERENITY.
A brief intro to the place:The Kingdom of Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas land locked between India and China. A tiny nation with an area of just over 38000 sq. kms and population of over 6 lakhs but able to give a powerful message to the world. Popularly known as Land of Thuder Dragon and often referred as The Last Shangri-La. Though a small country by size and population, blessed with the most spectacular physical beauty with wide range of flora and fauna. It is a well-insulated and protected land, where Vajrayana Buddhism took roots in 8th century and continues to play a major role in its present-day administration. A nation highly claimed to have balanced material and spiritual development and blessed to have a Visionary
King Jigme Singye Wangchuk who came up with this beautiful concept. The Gross National Happiness (GNH) which became the official development philosophy of Bhutan combining four pillars of GNH being Economic development, good governance, environmental conservation and preservation & promotion of culture. Religion and governance go hand in hand keeping this objective in view. We were in for a peaceful retreat in this great but tiny Himalayan nation. The family sojourn began on 13th May and the daily narrative goes on…..
Day 01:
a) With full of excitement of a long LTC (looked like Long Travel Concession !!) we embarked upon from Mangalore at around 5.30 am and reached Bangalore Airport. We had roughly two hours time left for the next flight and I had carefully planned for web check-in with specific seats for all the four. In spite of small delay we arrived at Bagdogra Airport at around 3.30 pm. We were greeted by one Dileep who was to take us to Phuentsholling (298 mtrs / 977 fts) the gate-way to Land of happiness which looked like gateway to heavens.
b) It was a 4.5 hour plain drive covering for about 165 kms and we scraped through narrow roads of WB and enjoyed seeing plantations on the plan lands for the first time. Our imagination about plantations on the hilly regions fell through when we saw many plantations on the roadside. The road was running parallel to river Teestha and crossing over in a few places on the way, we reached Phuentsholling around 8.30 pm. We couldn’t resist after noticing a small temple surrounded by a little garden like place, just opposite the Hotel we stayed (Hotel Damchin) and rushed to see. The room was spic and clean and kids were in no mood to leave the room after our long journey since morning. I was not the one to take a NO and made them get into business of SEEING things through and through from the very first day !!
c) But we didn’t realize that Bhutanese time is half an hour earlier than IST and we were gently reminded by the Hotelier to finish our dinner as it may close by 9.30 pm. Promptly, we finished our food and went down for seeing this very unique structure for the first time. To our great surprise, many localists were rounding the temple with prayer beads in their hands and fervently rolling the bells of temple and praying. We could hear some mantras in a deep base voice and felt that we are in a different spiritual Zone. We could hardly see such a serenity in many of our crowded temples which we could sense in this small temple situated in the border town. This was an indicator of serene things to come on the way, but we were not aware of the same.
d) My appetite for roaming around did not subside here and we went for a short walk to see the sleepy town. Surprised to see a cop standing in the Circle at around 9.30 pm and we got our first lessons here. As there was no vehicular traffic, we just walked across the circle seeing an ATM there, to draw some local currency. But the policemen would not allow, he is gesturing us and we don’t understand what’s the big deal. Then we realized that there was a Zebra crossing, 50 ft away and we are supposed to take it. All vehicles promptly stop here even without a signal and wait for the pedestrian to cross over. This looked like a great respect to the common man walking across, which we would never get in our own country. At this point of time we didn’t know that this is the only country without any traffic signals throughout the place. For the next five days, our driver in Bhutan did not even honk for more than two-three times !!
e) The border town of Jaigaon (in India) and the other side of Bhutan-Phuentsholling was a stark contrast which we could see just after crossing a wall which separated two countries. Roads were clean with people behaving orderly and no noise of vehicles – honking, people shouting. It was a bit of surprise to see this old town which looked like an oriental place with peaceful people, whereas Jaigaon looked like a busy dusty market place with people running around with great impatience and hurry. This was another indicator of things to come in our way. We were sure for a peaceful retreat in this place.
Day - 02
f) Phuentsholling – Thimphu (178 kms & 6 hrs)I got up early and could not resist a fresh morning walk. A thorough and peaceful walk was waiting for me and I could see many people going up the hill for a practice in Archery, a national sport of Bhutan. There were some cute dogs also on the way taken for a round by cuter ladies and I strolled around the river path near the Hotel and had a refreshing morning time. Familiar looking people and place. By this time I was getting a feeling that I must have born in this place long ago !!
The serenity of the nation is visible right from its border town.After a nice breakfast we checked out and started for Thimphu, the Capital of Bhutan. We were picked up by a local agent for getting travel permit and there was a long que to obtain permission. We had to fill up details and submit copies of Voter ID/Passport and the officials would enter details in their systems. The biometric details of all visitors captured and we were given permits to travel for 7 days. Suddenly we realized that our SIMs won’t work and we needed a local SIM – myself and Chinmaya went in search of a Tashi shop and got two SIMS fitted into our mobiles. Of course the currency was not a big problem as they would accept Indian currency upto 500/- and in some places even 2000/-. Now all set to go and our Driver Hamid Bhai was ready to move on.
g) On the way we were told that we will pass numerous small town of Gedu, Chukha and Chunzom, the confluence of Pa Chu and Thin Chu. Immediately after leaving the border town, the steep ascent started and our spirits were as high as the surrounding mountains. I was quite confident that my both kids have grown strong and would withstand the journey in high altitudes/curvy roads to Thimphu, the Capital City of Bhutan. The journey was pleasant and soon we reached certain heights with misty roads with almost 20 feet visibility. We were thrilled to remember our own Agumbe ghat and it didn’t last longer. Soon we experienced deep curved roads for long stretches. Virtually we were closing on a valley with river in between. We could see long curvy roads for distance and the scenery was picturesque. Suddenly it also rained and we stopped over for food on the way for a brief while.
h) Reached Timphu at around 7.30 pm and Upon arrival checked in at the hotel. This tiny capital city looked very decent in outlook and we rested in hotel. Now, we set foot for a veg dinner and visited M/s Hotel Ajantha, near market place. We searched in google and in the market area on an obscure corner, we could locate it. We were surprised to know that it was run by a Buddhist. Food was good and the parathas served hot with curds. Had a short talk with the owner and appreciated this pure veg restaurant.
He was too happy to hear and gave full credit to his father who is a complete vegetarian. He conceded that in Buddhism there is no place for violence and if possible, we should refrain from eating meat. He was also too happy to know that we are from Mangalore and he had seen Bangalore and loved the place. All the while, Veenu was too happy to find a pure Veggie place to eat !!
i) After a sumptuous dinner retreated back to Hotel and as usual my appetite for exploring made me got up early. This time, whole family got up with me and we slowly walked towards Tashichho Dzong; the main secretarial building which houses the throne room of His Majesty the King of Bhutan and also the head seat of Chief Abbot of Bhutan. It is the summer resident of the monk body, the winter being in Punakha Dzong. Located at the banks of the Wangchhu River the massive fortress was built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and rebuilt in its present form in 1965 by the Third King of Bhutan Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. In Bhutan a Dzong is a fort and Lhakhang is a monastery while a Chorten is a small temple.
Day – 03:
j) Coming back to hotel, we were delighted to see small children running into a school which is just opposite our hotel. Little Bhutanese kids in their impeccable uniform getting dropped and crossing over the road was a feast to see. Soon, the morning activities startled our imagination of a School in Bhutan. There was a beautiful song played and kids danced to the tune very systematically. There was also a short speech by the Head Mistress followed by a fun filled activity about concentration.
The children were told to avoid any movement with pens, books when teacher is speaking. To make this habit, there was a game. They played the same song and kids started putting steps. Suddenly the music stops and the kids supposed to stop then and there. This was one good way of improving concentration and their attention to happenings around. Kids are taught in English and they are extremely well behaved without forgetting their culture.
k) First thing in the morning was a visit to Royal Textile museum and saw some exquisite hand woven textile. There was also a demonstration about wearing the national dress for men and women (Gho and Kira). A small boutique shop made us buy a few mementoes and I was tempted to buy a book on the Visionary King of Bhuthan which was very informative. A film CD “Samsara” caught my attention depicting the struggle of a monk in his pursuit to enlightenment and the lady at the counter smilingly told me to watch with caution (Not with your daughters). The theme attracted me but this caution was not understood. We realized it later when we watched at home and appreciated the conservative caution given by this Bhutanese lady !!
l) Continuing our exploration in Thimphu we spend the rest of our time browsing through the Handicrafts Lane of Thimphu where there are more than 50 Government appointed shops selling the traditional Bhutanese crafts that you can buy as souvenirs. Next it was visit to the famous landmark of the capital, the Memorial Chorten, consecrated in the memory of the Third kind of Bhutan who is regarded as the father of the modern Bhutan.
Just as you enter the Chorten, you will be amazed to witness the local people, young and the old alike, circumambulate the Chorten with the prayer beads or the prayer wheel in hand, murmuring the sacred words of prayers. The tall four storied Chorten contains statues and iconography of deities from the tantric teachings.
m) Further visit Folk Heritage Museum. One of the oldest house in Thimphu was converted in the Folk Heritage Museum in 2001 to give an insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Bhutanese forefathers. It is like entering a traditional Bhutanese home in, say, 150 years back.
n) Next it was visit to famous Changangkha Lhakhang, built in 13th century. Situated on a small hill overlooking the Thimphu valley the monastery was built by Lam Phajo Dugom Zhigpo. Children born in Thimphu are taken to this temple because it is considered the spiritual home of the children born in Chang valley and their names are considered here by taking the blessings from the protector deity Tamdrin.
If we are lucky, we can witness the local family with the child here performing the rituals. Inside the Lhakhang, the central statue in the temple is Avalokitesvara, Buddha of compassion, in his manifestation with 11 heads, a thousand hands and eyes; it is built with bronze and plated with gold.
o) It was now time to witness the National Animal of Bhutan, at the Takin Reserve. Takins are related to sheep and weigh up 650 kgs. According to the local folktale, the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, created the Takin by joining the goat’s head in the body of the Cow. This interesting animal is an endangered species found only in few pockets of the Himalayas. By the time we were tired and wanted to rest. But the places were so tempting and we visited Buddha Dordenma which is one of the largest Buddha statue in the World at 169 feet. The body of the Buddha is filled with 1,25,000 smaller statues of Buddha. The view of the Thimphu valley is spectacular from this point. Fully satisfied about the days exploration we came back hotel and before that we were taken to a elevated place to watch lighting in the Dzong and finally we retreated back for the day.
Day 04:
p) After seeing the present Capital of Bhutan, we now ready to see the ancient capital of Bhutan – Punakha (1200 mts / 3936 ft) 77 kms away from Thimphu. It was early morning start and we stopped over at Dochula pass (3100 mtrs) to see a spectacular view of some of the highest mountain peaks of Bhutan stretching almost 180 degrees. There were 108 stupas (we didn’t know what was below !!!). Later when we visited Chime Lhakhang in Punakha realized that. Further drive to Punakha was through beautiful landscapes and paddy fields. We could see some monasteries like structure on the far-off valley and hills which were told to be local Lhakhang’s which is almost unreachable by the tourists.
q) Punakha was the ancient capital of Bhutan and after construction of the first motorable road connecting Thimphu to rest of the world, it became the present Capital. Punakha is an ancient city and the Punakha Dzong is considered as the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan. The fortress is to be reached by crossing over a river which adds to the glitter of the fort. We could see a number of beautiful flower plants and background of mountains was mesmerizing. We could see a suspension bridge built in olden days to cross over the river. Perfect place for Chinmaya to take clicks !!! Veenu did some local purchase and got three good umbrellas for Mangalore rains. I just silently swallowed a plate full of Veg Momus while also feeding them to two local dogs who happily gave me company. It was quite tasty and hot!!
r) After visiting this ancient and beautiful Dzong, we started back towards Paro and We were particular to visit Chimi Lhakhang on the way. It is the most famous ancient temple of fertility associated with the religious art of phallus. On a narrow stretch of mountains, we reached the base and walked for around 20 minutes to reach the temple. On either side of the road, there were small shops displaying artifacts and some very beautify paintings on canvass done by local persons. The temple was quite impressive in its origin and we came to know about a radical Buddhist monk who set a new path for the localists. We can call him Osho of Bhutan.
Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master who personified the true essence of Vajrayana tradition and is known as crazy wisdom transcending mundane culture of religion. He was called Divine Madman for his non conventional and outrageous style of teaching. He wandered as a vagabond along countryside indulging in dance and song, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting. He was a social critic who taunted hypocrisy of established monastic orders. He was known for taming a number of demons and demonesses that were tormenting Bhutanese people and subdued infamous and much feared demoness of Dochula and buried her on the mound where Chime Lhakhang was built in 15th century.
s) After these two very important places in Bhutan, we started our journey towards Paro. We continued the drive to descend along the Wang Chu [Thimphu River] to meet Pa Chu [Paro River] at Chunzom, the confluence point of Pa Chu and Wang Chu. Few kilometres from Chunzum is the Thamchok Lhakhang, a private temple owned by the descendent of the famous Tibetan bridge builder, Thangthong Gyelpo, also known as the “Iron Chain Bridge Builder”. Still you can see the iron chain bridge which is built by him. It is a photographer’s delight. By the time we reached Paro it was too dark and we could see a tiny but beautiful run way and the Airport at Paro. At Paro stayed in a Home stay kind of Hotel called Park Hotel.
t) As per plan we are supposed to visit the Ta Dzong, the National Museum and the Rinpung Dzong [Paro Dzong]. The Museum boasts of its collection of fine arts, paintings and bronzes. There are also textiles, jewellery, and handicrafts sections as well as galleries of stuffed animals and butterflies from Bhutan. The stamps’ hall is very popular and displays, among others, 3-D stamps, record stamps, silken stamps, embossed stamps and the famous triangular stamp depicting the yeti. Located below the Museum is Paro Dzong. Also called the Rinpung Dzong, the Fortress of the Heap of Jewels, Paro Dzong was built in 1645 by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel.
u) It is an imposing square fortress with a central tower and courtyards housing the administrative quarters and the monastic section.After the visit, we will take the leisurely downhill walk to cross the typical Bhutanese Cantilever Bridge, one of the finest specimens in Bhutan with its shingle roof and two guard-houses at each end. Next drive 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong. Drukgyal Dzong was a fortress and Buddhist monastery, now in ruins. The dzong was probably built in 1649 at the behest of Ngawang Namgyal, Zhabdrung Rinpoche, to commemorate victory over an invasion from Tibet. One can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft) from this point. This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village. None of this happened since we were short of time and energy required to be conserved for the D-day to climb Tiger Nest Monastery – Taktsang Monastery.
v) Day 05:
We were over enthused in anticipation of challenging part of the program - Hike to Taktsang Monastery.
After breakfast, drive of 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong from where one can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft). This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village. Taktsang Monastery, clinging on the steep rock, is one of the holiest temple in Bhutan. It is believed that Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padsambhava) flew on the Tigress back and meditated here. His wife was transformed into a tigress and she assisted him in his tantric ways.
The trek to the temple through the pine tree and sweet aroma of the air is indeed a very special and memorable event. The return hike will take about 05-06 hours. The hike is usually till the cafeteria from where we will have a breath taking view of the Monastery and a photographer’s delight. For the first 03 hours, we will take the ascend on the well marked trail to reach the cafeteria [lunch point] from where we will get the best view of the Tiger’s Nest. Further 02 hours hike will reach us to the Monastery. However recommended hike is till the cafeteria for the elderly people as per travel agents. The real trek is here only. The essence of the monastery is lost if we miss this part.
w) The climb up hill was quite difficult at times and we have to maneuver through narrow cliff. After certain point there were clearly laid down trails and the elevation uptothe cliff is around 900 mtrs. We slowly climbed up with sufficient rest enjoying the natural beauty of the place. There were many stops for Photo session than for taking rest on the way !! Our young photographer was clicking in all directions and delighted to get some very sharp photos of the cliff on which Monastery was standing tall.
After climb of around 5 hours, we reached the peak and there was a well laid out procedure of receiving us and keeping our belongings in a specified place. Mobiles, cameras are not allowed inside. A well behaved Lady guide took us inside each of the Lhakhangs and explained the specific importance of the temple. She was keen on telling us about the procedures to follow and to respect age old traditions. There were many monks who were doing Prayer/Japa and we are not supposed to disturb them. If any of the tourists is stranded and left alone, it will be taken seriously and he has to be with the group without disturbing the serenity of the place.
x) It was very orderly and the explanation given about the religious traditions and practices of the monastery. A very highly sanctified place with lot of good vibes and we could not resist seeking permission for sitting with closed eyes in a temple. The feeling was very reverential and we sat for a while after which we were promptly picked up by the group leader. While coming down, we saw another small peak where there were some monks. Out of curiosity we climbed upto see Guru padmasambhavas Tiger cave and a monk was pleasantly sitting with his Jap mala. After getting his blessings, we came back to the main trail. The steps were very slippery and carefully, we got back.
y) We came back by 4.30 pm and all of us very hungry. The cafeteria was stil open for those who have climbed up and not returned. After a proper meal, came down the hill and started back to Home stay at Paro. It was now the wish of Chinmaya to have a BHUTANESE HOT STONE BATH which is needed to be booked in advance. As told to us there can be nothing better than to soak your body in the traditional tub after the Taktsang Hike. Similar to Japan, Bhutan offers a traditional form of bath called the hot stone bath.
Originally practiced for health or luxury purposes, a Bhutan hot stone bath takes a lot of time and effort to prepare. Particular stones are handpicked from the river which are heated up in the open fire until they turn blood red. The traditional wooden tub is filled with cold water and then the red hot stones are dipped in until the water warms up. Herbs are added to the water and the experience can be compared to that of a natural hot tub minus the jets. The herbs used varied according to family and the recipe often was treated as a family secret, which was passed down from generation to generation. It is a very natural experience that includes the elements of water, fire and earth.
z) I would be failing if I don’t mention about the Home stay in Paro and our early morning visit to Kichu Lhakang. This Hotel is fully managed by a Lady by name Psang Dolma with the help of another five girls who were very active and courteous. They were in fact were waiting on the road to receive us and show the way to Hotel when we arrived at around 8 pm. Mrs. Psang Dolma w/o Gem Dorji, was a very curious lady and she enquired us thoroughly and we had a good interaction.
The family was very pious and we were told that her husband goes to the nearby Lhakhang every day at 5.30 am in the morning. They were also surprised to know that we are pure vegetarians and she virtually blessed us saying that they also don’t want to eat any meat at all. They have regular prayers at home and the whole family looked very sober and affable. When we told her about Taktsang hike, she said her brother is a monk there and further to the Taktsang monastery there is another place for trekkers where they can stay in the monastery surroundings. She invited us to visit next time and assured to arrange for a special visit to the Monastery which is further up hill. We were delighted.
aa) Previous day morning, we had gone for a walk to nearby Kichu Lhakhang which is said to be one of the oldest Lhakhangs of Bhuthan. The early morning atmosphere was so serene and we could see a number of old ladies and daily walekers visiting Lhakhang and offering their silent prayers. Most of the ladies were having a long bead and they were repeating a mantra as initiated by their monk. We wanted to visit inside sanctum sanctoriumand took permission through Gem Dorji and went inside for a while. It was delightful morning to offer prayers on a Buddha Purnima day and we were deeply touched by the serenity of the place.
bb) To our great surprise, when we came out, we saw an old Monk who was curious to know about us. In his tit-bit Hindi, he enquired as to where we are from. He was enquiring about distance and the amount of money spent by us to visit this Lhakhang. When he heard about distance and price, he was virtually elated and blessed us that we have come a long way. The warmth and affection were very clear in his eyes and he wouldn’t let us go.
Finally, he took two ten-rupee notes from his pocket and gave us to keep. It was a simple gesture and so remarkable that he was touched by our visit from a long distance and our wish to pray on a Buddha Purnima day. I carefully kept this into my valet, as a souvenir and we wished him farewell. Such a simple act of giving ten rupees note made us think about the humane nature of Bhutanese people. This place is truly blessed.
cc) With a heavy heart and great peace/joy from within we returned back from Paro next day morning. After reaching Phuentsholling, it was a different world of chaos and nuisance. We virtually felt out of place and the difference in attitude of people and the state of affairs in this place was too much digest. It was like coming from Heaven to visit Hell. Out plans were like that to reach Gangtok same day and later come back via Darjeeling. Virtually, I would say that our trip ended here at Phuentshilling itself and the balance was only for information sake.
dd) There was nothing much to write except about some chilling experiences in Tsomog lake / Changu lake, a glacial lake in the East Sikkin district, 45 kms away from Gangtok. Located at an elevation of 3,753 m, the lake remains frozen during the winter season it is actually a replica of the topography and terrain which we saw in Bhutan. In Darjeeling we visited Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is a 67.56-acre zoo in the town of Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal. The zoo was opened in 1958, and an average elevation of 7,000 feet, is the largest high altitude zoo in India. Tea garden: Darjeeling tea is a tea grown in the Darjeeling district in West Bengal, India, and widely exported and known. It is processed as black, green, white and oolong tea. When properly brewed, it yields a thin-bodied, light-coloured infusion with a floral aroma.
ee)��The last part of the program was Tiger Hill which is located in Darjeeling, in the Indian State of West Bengal, and is the summit of Ghoom, the highest railway station in the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a panoramic view of Mount Everest and Mount Kanchenjunga together.
Very early in the morning, we went to Tiger Hill to catch a glimpse of sunrise over Kanchenjunga. We could also see Batasia loop. The Batasia Loop is a spiral railway created to lower the gradient of ascent of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in Darjeeling district of West Bengal, India. At this point, the track spirals around over itself through a tunnel and over a hilltop. It was commissioned in 1919. The Nathula pass and the Baba Mandir was really enjoyable, but the chaos and rush seen in Gangtok and Darjeeling, was not very palpable as we just descended from a very orderly nation and our minds did not really enjoy the Indian side of the very same Himalayas.
ff) It was a revelation that with orderly and disciplined citizens whose beliefs system is deeply rooted in religion and righteousness, we could make lot of difference in our attitude towards fellow beings in particular and the nature in general. Visit of Bhutan would remain fresh in our minds for a long time to come. We had such a serene experience in each and every place we visited in Bhutan. There were no traffic lights and no honking in any part of Bhutan.
People are so kind and courteous in their behavior with fellow citizens. The differences in governance of a constitutional monarchy and institutional anarchy was very visible. The reverence and importance given to the age-old culture & tradition and good governance by the rulers reflected in the High Happiness Index of the nation. With a great hope that we would emulate the quality of life in this tiny nation, we returned home.
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Sheshachalam Trek - a travelogue or monologue !!
SHESHACHALAM TREK – A Unique Pilgrim trek by YHAI
Sheshachalam –trek on the abode of God of Seven Hills, Shri Balaji Tirupathi Devasthana, is a memorable wander into one of 108 Theerthams on the Thirumala. People often visit, Papanashana Theertha, Aakash Ganga and Kapila Theertha as they are very easily accessible by road and pay their respects to the Theerthas and enjoy the serene atmosphere there.
However, there are many more unknown and mystique Theerthams which I remembered to have visited during my early childhood days, like Thumburu Theertham, Ramakrishna Theertham in the deep woods of Thirumala with my parents and especially, the most pious and determined lady my mother who was fond of Thirupathy Venkataramana. She would climb without taking any food and till finishing Darshana of the Lord Venkateswara !!
I remember a family trip to Thirupathy when I was around 10 years of age; we climbed the hills during wee hours of around 3.30 am and it was quite dark and scary to climb in those days without any facilities or shelter. My father was determined to go up and we went and got scolding from Forest officials for daring in the night along with family members as there was a threat of animals roaming on the way. I still remember the chill feeling we had throughout the climb !!!
Just to refresh my child hood memories, it came upon as if I was destined to visit Thirumala through YHAI trek program – Sheshachalam. I could not visit Thirupathy for a long time even though it remained my favorite hill to climb on foot for a long time. Again, all due to the initiative of my brother, Venkat who has become a senior trekker of YHAI along with his better half, Bhagya who is ever ready to do an outing this way. She had in fact, designed an ingenious sleeping bag with available materials like Woollen Shawls and linen.
We all set foot on a day of Karnataka Bandh after borrowing Grand I10 of TVS to Tirumala on 25th early morning. There were lots of uncertainties, I just landed after an overnight journey from Mangalore and we had to reach by 2 pm to get into the forest and the reporting point was “Keshava Reddy School (formerly Bhuvanagiri School) at Kukkala doddi Village, about 30 kms towards Kodur from Thirupathy and 20 kms from Renigunta Station, (the literal meaning of Kukkala doddi being a place for canines reared by one local headman).
Kodur is known for growing a variety of mangoes and further leads towards Kadapa. I met a farmer who studied in this School and got an insight into the sanctity of this place. This route used to be called “Annamayya margam” in memory of the devout Annamacharya who used to climb from the rear side of the hill.
The very fact that this path was treaded by Saint Annamacharya and a noted devotional poetess “Vengamamba” filled my soul with pleasantness and a bit of excitement. Tarikonda Vengamamba was a Niyogi Brahmin lady and staunch devotee of Lord Ventakeshwara who became a Yogini and written devotional poems on Lord. She dedicated her life to Lord after becoming a child widow who considered Lord as her husband and continued to dress as a married woman.
Story goes that she was doing Ekantha Seva to Lord Venkateswara and she was banished by the priests to a cave about 15 kms away from Tirumala and this did not deter her from worshipping the lord. She used to travel through the cave and reach temple for worship!! We were about to stay in this cave near Tumburu Theertha, on the third day of our stay and this was quite a fascinating thing for me to visualize the life of such a staunch devotee and contemporary of Annamacharya in 17th Century.
I remembered a similar story of Akka Mahadevi who lived near Kardaliwan cave, close to Shri Shaila Mallikarjuna Temple. It did not look like just a coincidence that we were there during last month !!!. My fascination with the place and the Shloka “Shree Shaila Shikaram Dhristva Punar Janma na vidyathe” was satisfied during this yet another pilgrim-trek which could happen only partly due to forest permission issues.
Day 1:
At around, 3.30 pm we were briefed about the program and trekkers started moving in line to reach a place called Bandi Marisula which is roughly two and half hours easy trek. It is a very secluded place for resting in the night and it is said that the Tigers used to attach the bullock carts with such a great force that the wooden spokes used to break for the intense attach.
The literal meaning of Bandi is Bullock cart and Marisula is the wooden spoke which broke. After hearing this, the place seemed a bit scare. But seeing the natural surroundings, all such fears disappeared. There was a natural pond surrounded by pristine brown coloured rocks and dense forest in the background. The camp site was quite small and could have accommodated about 50 to 60 trekkers only. We were nearly a hundred. From here we are to start trek next day to explore the dense forests including some perennial springs, Secret Canyons, Cascading Waterfalls, Century old tall trees, caves, pre historic rock paintings etc., off the beaten tracks with the help of enthusiastic YHAI volunteers headed by KV Prasad and Balu garu.
This trek happens once in a year and hence there was a big rush of trekkers and some piligrims who want to see this part of Tirumala.After a sumptuous tea break and dinner later in the evening, we rested in the open for a while. There were no tents of YHAI but Venkat was ready with a tent of his own and pitched the same at an appropriate place. My sleep bag saved me from the chilled nights but this did not guarantee sound sleep as there was so much enthusiasm among trekkers, pilgrims who were excited and kept awake through out the night giggling, cracking jokes and made a bit unusual noise in this serene atmosphere. Days trek was very light and we kept good pace with all enthusiasm. The regular camp was unavailable and another batch yet to join us next day morning.
Day 2:
The day’s mandate was to reach Yerra Reddi Madugu and come back early for another short trek of two kms near our camp site. But it was long enough to reach and we were there at around 2 pm as we left late. This is a natural pond and water flowing throughout the year. After a strenuous walk of five hours we were eager to enter into water. I was watching others getting soon into water and I also slowly moved on.
This is where I drowned in the Water for the first time in life. There were big rocks in the water and the depth was not visible. I slowly moved towards the middle and felt that there is no more rock to go further. I decided to go back and turnedback. But at this stagem I slipped and drowned back and in seconds went down. I tried to cycle and come up, but the legs were not having enough strength to co operate.
I now felt that I am drowning and unable to reach the top of the rock so that I can stand. Heard, Kitty shouting loudly and making gestures. I had to grab another fellow swimmer, but he could not take me and I again drowned. Now I knew that I cannot come up without help.There were many in the pond who would not have noticed me. Within seconds, I grabbed someone else and came aboard on the rock, a bit shaken by my inability to come back to a safe place. For a moment I could see Kitty waiving and calling names. I gave him a shock of the day and he was trembling with fear and agony. I was quite comfortable and came little closer to the pond.
Now it was my turn to help someone else. There was a girl who was trying to come and go back. I observed that she is very nervous and finally as expected she drowned a little into the water. I could clearly see that she could not stand and head went inside. She was unable to come back to the top and I immediately grabbed her hand and lifted her to safety. Now the debt is repaid and I felt better!!
After having packed lunch, we started back. Now the number of trekkers who came directly increased and we had to go back to camp before it is too late. On the way we had to cross a big grass land and the chances of missing route was bright during night. We speeded up and tried move fast so that the large batch could move safely in distance. We had to give breaks for the other trekkers to join without having much gaps in between. Finally, wewereback by 6 pm to be greeted with a much wanted Tea break followed by Bajji. Bajji looked so delicious and also ensured smooth passage next day morning!!
Day 3:
This was the D day, I was waiting for. To see Vengamamba Caves and Tumburu Theertha whichis close by. We moved on at around 9 am and started trekking towards hills besides the camp. We had to cross over quite a number of small streams of water bodies; which was presently only boulders and water here & there. Crossing over the boulders for most of the trek was difficult & strenuous.
We had everychance of skidding and spraining ourselves which would make us no more fit for further journey. Luckily, we were careful enough to avoid such a situatin and kept walking towards Tumburu Valley. We stopped over for lunch at Chakalibanawater fall and there is also a pre historic period cave and we climbed into the same. It was refreshing place for having lunch and relaxation thereafter.
We reached Vengamamba caves and occupied the temporary tents / plastic roofs at around 12.30 pm. The Tumburu Theertham was close by and we moved on to see this majestic theertham. It is highly religious place and many rishis did penance in ancient times. The trek through the canyon with towering hills of more than 200 feet with a clearance of 20 to 30 metres between the vertical rock walls climbing over boulders wading through pools of water ultimately reaching the water fall where the two hills join together is an unforgettable experience.
We could see a number of ponds in the rock which we were cautioned to avoid entering as nobody knows how deep they are. We had to slowly go sideways to avoid falling into the pond by skidding onrocks!!There were local persons to cross us over to the other part of Big canyons route which itself was a diving path to reach the ultimate Theertham. The water was chilled and we enjoyed the walk through.
All our pains in leg disappeared in a whiff once we had bath in the stream finally at the end of the split rocky canyon. It is said that the big canyons are extremely rare sight in nature and it is thrilling to see tham. The serenity of the place is amazing and I started visualizing the period when rishis walked in this path doing their regular penance. Vengamamba cave is not too far away and she must be visiting this place daily.
We can see a large number of big ant hills on the way and one at the entrance had an idol being worshipped next to the ant hill. It looked like Tumburu rishi who has mastered music. The Tumburu Narada are well known for their music and devotion in our puranas. With a deep sense of satisfaction, we came backto the Vengamamba caves and settled down. There was a Yogi Maharaj in this place.
People say that he was ex military and came here to meditate and eventually settled down. He was alsogiving medicines to the local people when they were sick and was killed by some unknown people / poachers during 2010. All the ladies were accommodated in the cave parchment and we settled down in the temporary plastic tents outside. We felt that it was a real trek today followed by a rare rock formation (Canyon) mostly due to certain kind of earth quake or re orientation of the planet millions of years ago. The memories of this wonderful cave and the theertham would remain for a long time to come.
Day 4:
This was the last day and we were all completely exhausted physically. Our minds were fresh and energies high, even though there is pain everywhere. Destination was Rama Theertham and reaching Papanashanam for grand finale of the trek. We had break fast and packed lunch. Thanked all the workers who helped us in pitching temporary tents, preparing food and leading us safely through forest.
After a brief ceremony, we also got our certificates in advance as some parties would require to leave early. We had to climb up hill for about 5 kms on the serenic hills followed by 1 km ascent and 2 km deep descent on the rocks which seems to have been thrown from above. The climb was bit strenuous as there was sun on top of our head and we slowly reached the base camp of Ramakrishna Theertham.
We left our bags there and started ascent of 1 km followed a deadly descent of 2 kms down hll. It was a dangerous and risky walk down the hill with big boulders and sharp stones. This place is visited by pilgrims once in a year during Magha pournami for ceremonies. The TTD staff were busy erecting temporary ladders made out of wood down hill and we slowly went down using ropes on the way. Going down was quite exhausting and needed lot of patience with physical agility to climb big rocks/stones and without falling at any place !!
After reaching down, we were deighted to see the theertham and the source was difficult to identify as we have to swim across to see whichwas not possible. However, I tried to walk on the cliff to see the last visible part and took some very good pictures. One more trekker followed me and his thirst for selfies was satisfied by taking photos from a dangerously looking cliff. Down there was a stream of water coming from the falls and many of our trekkers were found to be enjoying the ice cold water swim.
By this time we realized that the stomach is empty and our bags in base camp had the luch pack. We had no option to climb back and our butter fly man – Biju was so hungry. He started looking for food everywhere and nothing came through. Luckily, there were local TTD staff were trying to save some food packets they received from Temple from the monkeys who weretrying ferociously to steal some packets.
I was lucky to get one packet which would have been offered for monkeys and both of us shared the divine pongal prasadam which would have otherwise gone monkey way!!. We were really lucky to eat pongal with some local chutney which tasted like heaven. Finally, after some rest we climbed back the same way towards tht top of the hill, which seemed better while climbing. It was anyway risky to hurry and we tread slowly to reach the top and had food. This was the last part of trek and we finally bid adieu to our Trek leaders and walked towards Papanashanam.
After paying respects to the Goddess Ganga, we moved on to Thirumala and later to Thirupathy to drive back to Bangalore. My wish to have Darshanam was not possible due to technical reasons and I decided to do it later with family. Came back to Mangalore by catching some local Saarige bus at around 12.30 pm and travelled through out the night to see Chinmaya who was not well. It was really a test of my endurance to travel during night in the local busses from Bangalore to Hassan, Hassan to Mudigere and Mudigere to Mangalore, after a 4D / 3N trek on Tirumala.
The entire journey starting on 24th night at Mangalore to 29th January, 2018 was like a dream with no gaps in between. My ambition of climbing the Thirumala hill was fulfilled in a different way and the memories would linger well for quite some time. I had consciously chosen to keep my conversation with the fellow trekkers to the barest minimum and enjoyed the solitude even though I was one among 100+ trekkers.
Hopefully, I would visit these places again with family and enjoy it in a different way, very soon. There are 108 theerthams on this holy hill and their religious sanctity is very significant. The rush we find in Thirumala is really scary and if everybody wishes to visit these theerthams, it may severely impact the environment.
They are better off without pilgrims and an occasional visit of trekker-pilgrims would be good for the ecology of Seven hills. Eco tourism is the need of the hour in this place and it cannot be compromised for our selfish nature. Generally people think that the entire planet belongs to them and they have every right to use all the resources for their entertainment.
It may be the reason that the nature has kept it secrets very closely and very few would know the way. Vengamamba Cave, Tumburu Theertham, Ramakrishna Theertham are the unique mystical places which we cannot forget for a long time.
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Amarnath Yatra - A divine adventure Pilgrimage
AMARNATH KI AMAR KAHAANI
It was a momentous decision to go to AMARNATH, at the instance of my brother Venkat, whom we fondly call KITTY. I had a deep regret that we could not do Manas Sarovar Yatra and in spite of our repeated efforts, even Veenu could not make it alone. I was always wary of leaving the kids on their own and avoided the trip.
We even planned for Veenus sojourn to Manas a couple of times which did not materialize due to unknown reasons. She was desperate that she couldn’t do it. This deep routed regret made me instantly agree for the Amaranth Yatra proposed by Kitty. Now that I was comfortable that the Kids have really grown to manage on their own, I had no qualms of LEAVING them alone. Only that my Akka came to take care of the family affairs.
Now we were all set for Amaranth. We left for Bangalore on 8th July, 2017. After working till late evening in the office, I was really bogged down by the ensuing work pressure. I had several sleepless nights convincing myself and my boss that my absence would not affect work. There were certain tricky issues relating to bank assessments and other urgent statutory work, which was holding me back.
2. We flew from Bangalore to Delhi and thereafter to Srinagar. Due to change in terminal in Delhi we had tough time in changing, or we thought so. It was quite easy to pick a bus and reach the other terminal. We had plenty of time in between to watch and observe several other Yatris in New Delhi airport.
We were surprised to notice a number of flights off to Srinagar (at least five to six in the first half of the day !!) and the differently looking tourists – pilgrims everywhere. Already, the Yatra season was evident and there were a number of pilgrims / look like pilgrims, including old couples, group of odd men and women in a variety of costumes in this old Terminal which looked like full of Yatris, only.
This Yatra is a life time dream for southerners but this appears to have been a yearly affair for many Shiva devotees from Maharashtra and northern states. The reverence towards Shiva and the Yatra which is open only for 40 days in a year was evident in their attitude. It may be true that we only felt so and it was all an illusory thought of pilgrim in the offing.
3. We kept on watching a variety of people around, who looked like going to Amarnath only, or it was only a delusion of a divine pilgrimage that we undertook after a long time. The religious fervor was evident from the time we landed in the Airport. I used to tease Veenu that after 23 years, we are on a Honeymoon trip to Srinagar and don’t think it is a Pilgrimage. We never remember to have left the KIDS for such a long journey. I was excited that her childhood disappointment in not seeing Srinagar (with parents) was going to be fulfilled now and this was another reason for instantly agreeing for Amarnath Yatra!!
4. The day when landed in Sringar, it was a Hartal day in remembrance of a so called jihadi who laid down his life for the cause of Kashmir. The driver was waiting for us since afternoon and we reached around 5 pm. When we stepped out of airport, we could see empty roads on which children were playing cricket !!!. Shops were closed, no traffic on road and it was a bit scary to see a number of uniformed personnel and – police present every 100 metres or so. Tense mood in the air slowly gripped our mind. I said to myself that we need to get used to such atmosphere for the rest of our period in Srinagar. But we never knew that the situation would be worse in a couple of days !!
5. We were taken to a remote Hotel amidst the silent locality of Rajbagh as they wanted to avoid City Hotels for Yatris. Warmly welcomed by a Kudla man, Mr.Harsha from Namana Travels. We were tired and immediately retreated to the room given. I mentioned that we did not have proper food and would like to have early dinner. By 7.30, we were surprised with a sumptuous south Indian meal with Mangalore style Sambar and after filling to the level of 100%, felt like should have a walk.
We went towards Jhelum Bridge to see the beautifully lit walk way - built along the side of the bridge. We could hardly see any tourists here. The place was quite romantic and pleasing. But, it was very weird and weary due to absence of any tourists. There was no movement of people except a few Daadi walahs. Veenu was slightly worried and sensed the tense mood in atmosphere. She could not resist her scared mind and insisted that we go back to our room. I was trying to set her a proper mood after heavy dinner. It all started feeling quirky and I started feeling bad for this beautiful place enamored in great fear and prejudice in the minds of people. This was clearly an indication of our future journey in this troubled place.
6. Early in the morning, we got up to see the real Srinagar at around 5,30 am. I purposely made a plan to “Shankaracharya Temple” early in the morning, to ease out the impressions of late evening walk on the banks of Jhelum river previous night. The plan worked wonders. After getting preliminary information from hotel, we walked upto the bridge again and sought information from a decent guy sitting after a brisk walk. He guided us well and before further query, saw a Rikshaw wallah staring at us. He asked the guy to endorse his rate to Shankara Temple. I told that fellow that we may take more time in the temple and it should not be a problem. He agreed without any further ado and took us to the temple in a whizz. Driver was an interesting character, kept on talking in his anglicized English cum Hindi. He looked like a European and before we could conclude our friendly talk, we were near the CRPF check post at the foot hills of Gopadri !!
7. Crossing through the Dal lake area and took a turn towards Shankara Temple which is also a prominent base of CRPF. I had ventured into this place during my earlier visit with my batch mates. Only myself and my Namboodhiri friend were dare enough to visit the temple on a tumultuous day in Srinagar while all others kept themselves into the room !!.
We just sneaked out of the hotel to get a Rickshaw drive without even informing anyone in the group as they were afraid of moving out of the Hotel. We were however, determined to see this sacred temple. I started cherishing nostalgic memories of my earlier visit with my good friend Narayanan Namboothiri from Palakkad. I instantly remembered that we had also visited Vaishnodevi due to his insistence during August, 2013.
8. This ancient temple claimed to have been built by King Sandiman during 2629BC and later renovated by King Gopadithya in 1368 BC on the hills presently known as Gopadri Hills. It is also said that the temple was built / renovated in 2nd century by the son of King Ashoka the Great. The temple built on a octagonal platform supporting, easily approached by approximately 200 to 240 steps.
The main surviving shrine of the temple is a circular cell providing a magnificent view of the valley. The temple situated on the top of a detached ridge of an igneous rock and along with conical hill rising behind the boulevard beside the Dal lake. The name of the temple and the hill has undergone change with the historical moments and presently, tourists call it as Shankaracharya temple. Recently the temple dome has been repaired by Swamy Shivratnand Saraswathi at the request of a Nepali Sadhu. The temple is maintained by J&K Dharmartha Trust and well protected by CRPF Jawans.
9. Shiva temple, popularly known as Shankaracharya temple in reverence to Adi Shankaracharya who visited Kashmir about twelve centuries ago. It is believed that then Acharya of the Srinagar University Swamy Abhinaugupta initiated Shankara into the “Shakthi cult”. We could see the marble statue of Shankara installed by Shankaracharya of Dwarika Peeth during 1961.
Shankara being my most revered Gnana Guru of the Vedic Philosophy of Advaitha and the day was “Guru Poornima” and I would not let go of this divine chance to be in a place where Shankara stayed for reviving Sanathana Dharma and walked barefoot from Kanyakumari to Kashmir!!. I was deeply contemplating within myself and kept on searching for the divine presence of the Great Master.
10. After entering the sanctum sanctorum, we could see a few devotees in great ferverent mood reciting many stotras and mantras. I could see a family man along with two of his two kids reciting a number of Stotras on Rudra and we stood silently enjoying the divine presence. I even saw him bowing in reverence and kissing the Shiv linga. I could not desist touching my forehead on the ice cold Shivalinga and felt ecstatic in that moment of great touch. This was the moment of solitude which I badly needed for a long time.
The large oval shaped linga, made out of reddish black stone claimed to have been brought from Narmada Valley in MP, is bit huge for the temple sanctum sanatorium gave a majestic look to this tiny temple premises. We did not feel like leaving the place at all and stood as long as we can inside the small place where it was getting crowded by every minute.
With great difficulty, we pulled ourselves out and did a half Pradakshina of temple only to be welcomed by the pleasant breeze and we sat for a while on the rear side. The scenic beauty of entire Srinagar on one side and the majestic Dal Lake was visible from here. We just stood still and decided to sit for a while for deeper contemplation.
11. At this moment, fortunately, I could see the same family man sitting along with his wife and two kids reciting a long list of Slokas in prayer of Lord Shiva. It was too soothing to hear this North Indian accent of Sanskrit slokas and we kept on sitting beside them side by side. I could hear, in between, the two kids grumbling for a while to go. Probably, they expected to see some places and have fun in Srinagar. But the Father was very determined to complete the Slokas he has started.
Finally, they left the place after which we sat for reciting the Sukthas learnt from our Guru Shikaripura Krishnamurthy. It was very pleasant and meditative to recite the Sukthas one by one starting with Ganesha Atharva Sheersha, Shivopasana Mantra, Durga Suktha, Medha Suktha followed by Narayana Suktha and finally concluded by Purusha Suktha. Myself and Veenu sat in a deep contemplative mood enjoying the presence of the Great Masters of the world, Adi Shankara and the Adi Yogi Shiva, popularly called as Adinatha by Nath panthis.
12. The graceful Gurupoornima day began with an auspicious morning visit to Shankara Temple on Gopadri hills, left an indelible mark deep within and we came down fully content from WITHIN, to spend a blissful day ahead of us. It was about 9.30 am in the morning and we had spent about three hours in the Temple.
Without wasting much time, we decided to cover two more sacred temples. Our rickshaw wallah has already planned for us and it was only a matter of money to be given. I instructed him to take us to Saraswathi Mandir and thereafter to Kheer Bhavani temple, so that we can reach back by lunch time. We did not want to miss this opportunity of continuing our ecstatic journey with more and more auspicious places in this beautiful state of Kashmir.
13. Saraswathi mandir as it is popularly called is situated about 6 kms from Srinagar city, on the western side of Hari Parbath. I just spotted a magnificent fort on a small hillock which was visible from Shankarcharya temple, and I was told that it is Hariparbath built by Akbar the great named after Raja Harisingh, the last of the Kings of Kashmir. We instantaneously decided to see the place, the moment we saw this tiny hillock fort from the top of Shankaracharya temple at a distance.
14. This was actually Sharika devi mandir on the western side of Hari parbath. After climbing about 80 - 100 steps, we were frisked by Jawans who let us into the temple. We were now in the divine presence of Sharika Devi – goddess Jagadamba Sharika Bhagawathy who is regarded as the presiding deity of Srinagar city, with 18 arms and sitting in Shri Chakra, an emblem of cosmic energy pervading the universe. The hill is also called as Pradyumna Peeth and there is a Swayambhu Shrichakra on the huge vertical rock, being a Shakthisthal adored by Adi Snhankara. The place is very sacred for Kashmiri Pundits who regularly visit during special occasions, particularly on Sharika maa birthday, called as Har Navum.
15. The pundit who was keenly observing our interest came forward to show us the huge vertical rock, symbolizing Sharika mata and showed us the Shri Chakra formation on this rock. The goddess Sharika is represented by a Swayabhu Shri chakra “Maha Yantra” consisting of Mystic impressions and triangular patterns with a bindu at the centre. We were simply amazed by the markings of Sri Chakra self glowing on the rock. He even showed other presiding deities on the rock.
They became more evident / perceptible with the placement of beautiful flowers on the front portion of the rock where we could perceive the shape of Shri Chakra. It was quite amazing to see the symbol on this huge rock. He also advised us to go through the literature on the side of temple, which gives immense input into the importance and meaning of Shri Chakra, one of the most powerful Yantras used in Shri Chakra Araadhane, by practitioners of Shakthi Cult.
16. It is said that the sacred Sri Chakra, commonly known as Sri Yantra, composed of circles and Lotus petals, contain nine independent trikonas (triangles), mystically drawn within the other. The four triangles that point upwards represent SHIVA and the other five pointing down wards represent Shakthi. Shiva triangles are called SRI KANTHAS and Shakthi triangles Shiva Yuvathis or Shakthi element. All these are quite independent of the central bindu and are formed by the Mula prakrithi of Shiva Bindu.
The intersecting triangles represent the play of creation, protection and absorption of the whole universe by the divine force known as Sudha shakthi. Sri yantra is the most magnificent composition of nine independent trikonas, charged with the supreme occult significance. The trikonas intersect with each other to form 43 big and small triangles into an inner circle on which a Lotus with eight petal “Ashta dal” is written representing mystical creation. The another circle following this with sixteen petalled lotus drawn on it, called as Shodasha dal, representing sixteen kalas (facets) of moon.
17. The whole set of triangles and the lotus petals are further triple concentric circles or three fold girdles called TRIMEKHLA. The whole diagram forming the mystical chakra fixed in a square with triple parallel lines, having four openings or gates on its four cardinal points make up the Devi’s mansion. In the centre of the whole composition, lies the bindhu (Point) which, in fact, is the mysterious matrix of the Maha Yantra. There is description of this Yantra given in Sloka 11 of Soundarya Lahari, composed by Adi Shankaracharya. Sri Yantra is a very sacred symbol of the creation as acknowledged by foreign authors who wrote on Indian philosophy.
Sir John Woodroff, (Arthur Avalon) who say that the more experienced view is that the mind is Shakthi which is a particular manifestation of it. Practice of the ritual transforms the mind and what is at first seen merely as an external Yantra with lines, curves and petals, becomes a pure mental state in the Sadhaka himself. He too is SHRI YANTRA and realizes himself as such. “ The nine chakras represent nau dwaras (nine openings) in the body and considered as an island of nine gems, Ajas, Sukra, Majja, Med, Asthi, Mamsa, Roma, Tvak and Rudhir. “The celebrated Yantra,” says John Woodroff, “represent the human body, the whole Universe and the man, for what is in the former is in the latter and vice versa, as also the Shiva Shakthi Swarupa or Atma. It is thus the symbol of Devi as she is in her own form “Swarupa” and as she is in the form of Universe “Vishwathma”.
18. Completely energized by the Sharika ma temple visit, we further decided to see Kheer bhavani temple which is about 28 kms from Srinagar. It is in the Ganderbal district, which is mostly terror ridden place. Auto wallah has no hesitation in taking us there and assured that there is no problem. We had no doubt in our mind that nothing would wrong and we proceeded further. By this time, we were hungry and the word Kheer bhavaani, itself sufficient to kindle more hunger!! By the way, they serve Kheer (rice pudding) to all the devotees as Prasadam.
19. Kheer bhavani a temple dedicated to Bhavaani, near village Tullamulla, constructed over a holy spring. It is believed that the Maharagnya devi, a satvic form of Durga, was pleased with Ravana and appeared in Lanka who installed the idol of Maa Ragniya, a satvic form of Goddess Durga. Later goddess was displeased with the vicious and licentious life of Ravana and ordered Hanuman to bring her idol back to Kashmir and install at Tulmul, where present temple is situated. It is also believed that the colour of the spring changes and during any inauspicious period, it turns into black, grey etc., Locals firmly vouch for such changes during 1980s where there was a calamity.
20. Historically, the name of the temple finds a place in Rajatarangini, an authentic chronicle giving the history of ancient Kashmir. Rajatarangini (River of Kings) is a historical chronicle of early India, particularly north western India, written in Sanskrit by Kashmiri Brahman Kalhana in 1148 AD, which is considered as the most authentic work of its kind. Kalhana was born to a Kashmiri minister in the Kingdom of Harsha of Lohar Dynasty. References to Kings of Kashmir can be seen and the details of Mauryan kings, Budhist Kushan Kings, Kanishkas and upto Karkota dynasty of Nagas, who ruled over the state of Kashmir, the chronicle describes in the form of verses numbering more than 8000. The travelogue of Abul Fazl Ibn Mubarak in his book Aini-Akbari mentions the area of Tula mula. Swami Rama and Swami Vivekananda also visited this sacred place and greatly influenced by its serenity.
21. We sat for a while in the temple where a number of devotees were singing maa bhajans. I was tempted by the calls from Langer, where the Yatris were invited for having food. Out of curiosity we went into the langer and had some Prasad. We came out to sit below the huge Chinar trees all around the temple. Here we met a Sadhu who was sitting below a huge tree and I remembered him sitting in the same place during our last visit also. After taking his blessings, we sat silently for quite a while as the first half day of our temple visit has come to an end and we had to rush back to the hotel, where Kitty family was waiting. We came back through the old city full of silent - turbulence and a number of anti India slogans on the way. It was a mixed feeling of divinity and sadness arising out of local situation which kept us harping on the historical reasons, from one extreme to another, intermittently drawing us back to the local politics.
22. Rest of the day, was quite peaceful and we just relaxed in the company of Sonaps and family. As part of the itinery, we had to again visit places –we had already seen. The first visit being, Shankaracharya temple again and the only difference is that it was in the scorching sun. The whole scenerio was quite different from the morning visit. It was the same day and still, the difference was huge. The paradox of visiting a temple in the afternoon as against the auspicious morning, was easily felt. This time, it was only tourists visiting and not the devotees!! We however, enjoyed the Company of Kitty and family and went ahead towards other places.
23. Srinagar is full of charming gardens and particularly some very beautiful ones, in the back drop of huge mountains. Cheshma sha hi, built during moghul period, being one such marvelous place wherein you find cold springs with water flowing down, quenching your thirst even in hot summer. We could not get out of the cold springs and drank chilled water to fill the stomach. We enjoyed the chilled water and drank full stomach. Next was Nishath bagh which is a very beautiful garden gave us the required relaxation with lush green grass to lie down and walk a bit. We could see Sonu in Kashmir dress and it was delightful. Feeling, contended with the journey whole day, came back to hotel for having a sumptuous south Indian meal.
25. Any visit to Kashmir valley is incomplete, if you do not see the beautiful outskirts like Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonamarg and the less known Doodh patri. Its even better, if you can stay over night in any of these places to get a feeling of the place, instead of coming back same day. Gulmarg is known for its Gondola in which you are taken to the top of mountains in a Cable Car and the scenic beauty is amazing.
The Sona marg, Doodh patri are places where you can ride on ponies to climb mountains and relax for the whole day. Pahalgam is on the way to amarnath and another picturesque place in Kashmir valley. There is a Mini Switzerland in this place and during cold season, Pahalgamlooks far more beautiful than Switzerland, with snow falling and ice frozen upto 20 feet !! Lots of adventure sports possible in these places. As the Gondola was not in operation, we skipped Gumarg and planned for an outing to Doodhpatri. This is less known place which is still under development as a tourist destination.
26. The moment we landed in Doodpatri, we were surrounded by a number of young Ghode walas who were not leaving us to move further. Some how, we got out and started trekking on the mountains. It was a good idea to take a guide for showing us the way and one of the ghode happily agreed to come. This was a prelude to the climb on mountains for Amarnath Yatra. I recollected my earlier tryst with mountains with my batch mates in this place.
We climbed from one side and came out through the valley crossing the river passing through the valley. Basically, we climbed one mountain and got down to the other through a river cross. It was a great experience to trek under the huge pine trees and it was a Photogenic trek, making us click every other minute. We came back around 4 pm in the evening after about four hours of trek, finished the packed lunch on the side ways of mountain valley. It was so refreshing to sit facing a huge peak and each our regular food “Chitranna” packed with a salad – raitha. Next day was the big day for starting our Amarnath Yatra, the final Yatra. And we did not want to get tired further and returned to Srinagar for our usual dinner and rest in the hotel.
27. While, we were being briefed about Yatra itinery to be followed from tomorrow, I got an unusual call. It was our Mantra Patha Satsang Guru – Shri Shikaripura Krishnamurthy. His voice was tense and I was told that there was an attack on Yatris at Anantnag and there is news everywhere. Tense moments started and I informed the tour operator. He was taken aback and started checking facts from his own sources.
We were told that the situation might become normal and as our Helicopter tickets booked for 11th from Baltal, we can go upto Baltal and see what can be done. There was no news channel or internet, as they got blocked immediately after trouble erupted in Kashmir Valley. We were told, a Yatri vehicle was attacked in Anantnag district and few people got killed. It was cross firing or attack by extremists, was not known.
28. We had some senior citizens and retired officials in our group. Their determination to visit Amarnath was amazing. I would say, that at one point of time, we were planning to come back to Srinagar and these ladies did not give up. The whole programme got fixed very interestingly. After packing lunch in the morning, we left early towards Baltal which is about three hours drive from Srinagar.
We had to cross Ganderbal which is known for disturbance and terrorist activities. After reaching Sona marg, we realized the problem is worse. Huge number of military convoy vehicles seen at Sonamarg. We some how reached the helipad base and waited for our turn. They were not allowing us on first come first serve basis and we were made to wait. Kitty and family went earlier but they had to wait for long. Again, the senior ladies took some initiative and their request gave us special permission to enter the place and procedures for take off started.
From 11 am in the morning till 4.30 pm we were waiting for Helicopter and the climate got worse. Two of the ladies went ahead in the Helicopter and one batch went up in the air and came back. Myself and Veenu went upto helipad and returned to the base as the services got cancelled due to poor visibility. In another 10 to 15 minutes, we could have reached Pachatarini, from where, we were planning to trek upto Amarnath. It would have been 6 + 6 kms up and down from this place.
29. We did not know what to do. We were told that we can come back tomorrow and wait in the que again. There was no guarantee that we will be sent first. Again the weather would not improve and waiting would not help. Sonu had to come back after two days and we could not afford endless wait in Baltal base camp for the weather to improve. Fully disappointed with the turn of events, we came out after cancelling the tickets.
After coming outside, there was no other way but to come back to Srinagar. One possibility was to stay back in Baltal – tent and go by Palki next morning. We were not sure of anything at this stage. We started back towards sona marg and ironically, the police would not leave us at this hour. In fact our vehicle crossed across towards Baltal and was sent back. It was only 6.15 pm evening. We would be left only next day morning. We could not go back we could not go forward. Stuck badly, we kept on planning / thinking, as to what to do.
The brainstorming session was going on in the other vehicle with senior citizens who wouldn’t give up. These brave ladies went ahead and met the Daroga with a ferverent request to let us go to Baltal for next day trip. We also joined them and I had to show my card requesting for some leniency. Finally, we were allowed to go to Baltal for a night stay in the tent and the first battle was with the nature and the second was with our own system which functions without any rhyme or reason.
30. After reaching Baltal, we hired tents for the night stay and arrangements made for next day morning Palki. Seeing weather conditions, we gave up the idea of trekking as it would be too difficult to climb from this side. It would have been possible from Pahalgam side and Baltal route is only by helicopter and steep trek. Early morning, got up at around 2 am and we were in selected Palkis by3.30 am.
It was a long queue at the gate and Veenu became sick at this final stage just before getting into the final gate and start of Palki journey. She kept on weeping and felt guilty that she had to suffer in this auspicious journey. I had tough time consoling her and it was only natural turn of events over which we had no control. As usual all our team mates had left, and we started afresh. After crossing the gate, we had to find our Palki walas and with great difficulty I could locate Veenu.
I came back for my Palki walah who was missing and somehow got him after a great effort. Seeing their plight, I started walking on difficult stretches and this was probably the first mistake. Showing goodness or courtesy was seen as a matter of weakness in asserting.
31. In the narrow stretch, palki walas, ghode walas and trekkers had to go in three lines and sometimes, opposite traffic would push us to the side. Due to drizzling, the way was completely slushy with lots of slippery pavements. It was terribly difficult even to walk across, leave alone taking some one on your Palki. I felt bad for those four chaps who were carrying this body. I felt ashamed and decided that I would never hire humans for carrying this body. Its as good as being dead and carried by someone, at least you have no control over events at that stage. This was quite symbolic of the Yatra to Amarnath, the final destination which is equally uncertain !! Difference being, you are alive but being carried on a Dolly by four persons.
32. We had to stop quite a number of times and except once, I could not see where Veenu is. The weather was bad and it was very cold at certain times, there was no way to go back or forward on our own. It all depended on our Palkiwalas who had taken the task of taking this body to Amarnath. Each one of us were alone in some sense and it was a divine pilgrim of life time. Shockingly, I saw a dead body being carried down from Amarnath. Within a short time, another one followed making a weary thought to come in the mind. Are we going back alive??? Both of us or one of us required atleast. I was able to let go of all the thoughts and just started watching the majestic heights of mountain, felt better doing so.
33. After a strenuous climb from 5.30 in the morning till 1.30, reached the peak. Felt thrilled that we made it, but not sure whether all of us have reached. We had to climb a few steps to see Amarnath Gupha. (Cave) It was a huge cave in which there was a formation of Lingam due to solidification of ice. My scientific mind started telling that it is a natural phenomenon found in several places where the flowing water froze to form Linga. Ajay had told about such instances in Switzerland, having seen a few of them.
It is a simple natural phenomenon which is turned into cause of a divine pilgrimage. What a way to see the nature’s beauty – philosophically !!! It was purely an adventure Pilgrimage Yatra for all those ferverent Bhakthas of Lord Shiva. Amazing are the ways of our ancestors who made every possible effort to elevate us through natural means. We have cluttered our minds so much so as not to understand them and blindly following all kinds of rituals without properly knowing their essence.
34. Finally, the Yatra was over from one side and it was time to climb down. It was getting late and the climate was getting worse each minute. Palkiwalas were aware of the risk involved and started running down. I had to climb down and walked few kms in between to speed up the journey. However, at some places, it was better to sit in Palki as they were too fast on slushy path. We took some rest in between and one of the palkiwalas disappeared with my bag without giving any notice. I had to walk for another two kms as there were only three to carry me !!. I had to scare them a lot so that I get my bag back. Their intentions did not appear to be genuine. They kept on pleading for not complaining to police and we finally reached the base.
35. First thing to do was to enquire about Veenu. I did not get confirmation about her arrival and rushed to the tent and my heart started beating again with joy when I heard her voice from the tent. Finally, all of us were back on our own legs and it was over by stroke of 6 pm. We went for a small stoll and came back after having some food in the Langer. I had to buy some clothes as my bag was still missing and entire clothing was wet.
Each one of us had different experiences on the way and probably it was born out of our Karmas and planned as per our nature. Every experience in life appears to be, a reaction or result, depending on our tendencies which we call Karma, as we do not know it well. Even if do not know it well, its ok if we can face it with a positive bent of mind, which we could very well do in the entire Yatra. We have to flow according to the circumstances still keeping with a determined mind towards the goal in our mind.
36. Now that we had achieved what we destined to achieve, we were feeling very light and relaxed, came back to Srinagar. Last leg of our trip had some very interesting places on the way to Pahalgam like, Marthanda Surya Temple, Anantha Padmanabha swamy temple, in Anant nag, Mamalapur Shiva temple in Pahalgaon village are very mystique. Pahalgam –probably , behel gaon, is said to be the place where Shiva Leaves Nandi and go further.
Chandanwadi is another place where Chandra leaves Shiva’s entourage. In Panchatarani, the pancha maha bhuthas are said to be left before reaching Amarnath alongwith Parvathy, to reveal the ultimate secret of being Amar. These temples are very ancient and you can see their mention in our Puranas. The ancient temple of Mamal (ancient Mamalka) on the river bank of Lidder pertain to 11th century built by Jayasinha and has a mention in Rajatarangini.
37. The Marthanda Sun temple originally believed to have been built by Pandavas and later renovated in 8th century by Lalitaditya Mukta Pida of Karkota dynasty. This was originally built on top of a plateau from where one can view whole of Kashmir valley. It was said to be an excellent specimen of Kashmiri architecture which blended Gandharan, Gupta, Chinese , Roman, Syrian and Greek forms of architecture. An architectural wonder of those days, worth exploring even now. In the present Marthanda temple (for visitors) you could still see a very unique variety of fish in the ponds.
There is a sense of eerie in these places which could be very nostalgic for a Scholar who knows about practices in Vedic ages. All these are the reminiscent of the ancient Vedic culture at its peak in this part of the Country. The state of Kashmir is claimed to be the Tapo bhumi of Kashyapa rishi. Great kings ruled this place over a period of time and the ancient Indian culture was at its peak in this place of Aryavartha. Our total ignorance about all such sacred places is a great shame and cause of concern.
38. Kashmir was a seat of learning and particularly, Sanskrit language had an evolving effect on this region. It is said that the scholars of this region were sent as Ambassadors of great Kings of Bharat varsha, like Ashoka the Great and many great kings of Gupta dynasty. Being very learned, they would achieve diplomacy and be very successful wherever they go.
As already seen Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, a historical Sanskrit chronicle of those days, there is a mind blowing account of Kings of Kashmir. Such a beautiful place on earth, culturally vibrant and a seat of learning once upon a time, fully endowed with nature’s bounty, pristine and pure forest mountains. It has become a tense place due to wretched politics of religion and international politicking with great apathy towards human beings.
39. It all looks like vested interest in keeping the issues alive and no immediate political solution appears in the offing. Wherever we go, the people were agitated and it was difficult to convince them that India is their best bet. They had serious doubts and animosity about political set up, army and the police establishment. Their ignorance about the reasons for their misery was appalling. They thought that everything in administration is against their interest, without realizing that they can effectively improve the situation with a positive bent of mind.
Lack of Trust appears to be the key problem. Felt bad for those kids seen on the way. I even showed the photograph of Gandhi in the currency note, to many such lads who came to beg for some money. Many of them were not aware of Mahatma who gave us freedom on a platter, only to be spoiled as we do not know the value of it. The kids were seeing this piece of paper which could get them some food and I used this moment of attraction.
I asked them whether they know this man on Currency note and told about his greatness. I had to literally lure them to be truthful and honest in life, so that one day their photo will be on Currency !! I was only trying to tell them to study well and be honest like Mahathma Gandhi to achieve something in life. I am not sure as to how much impact it had on those tiny minds, but surely it was satisfying my inner self.
40. Over all the trip was well organized and only the circumstances kept on changing every day. The uncertainties of life were symbolic in our Amarnath Yatra. We remembered the Kids at every point of time and it was hard to leave the kids and go all alone. Since Kitty was there, we played like kids and acted like ones also. We had nostalgic memories of our childhood days during the entire journey and enjoyed Sonaps company.
We enjoyed racing on green fields on mini Switzerland, riding horseback on the mountains of Pahalgam, Shikara rides and house boat stay on Dal Lake. The Amarnath was main course and the rest was a topping to enjoy. A memorable Yatra of life time to be cherished for a long time to come, thanks to Kitty for his great enthusiasm, we would not have ventured to plan for this divine adventure Yatra.
Amarnath ki Jai ho.
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Tit bits from Homeo Conference
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SPIRIT OF HOMEOPATHY (Notes - part II)
Health and disease: a Psychological and Philosophical perspective: Health is not just absence of disease and hence first we try to understand what is Disease?? 1. Disease consists of two parts, generalized disturbance of whole organism and localized problem. Generalized disturbance (physical, general and psychological changes) precedes localization of problem. GD is the posture…
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SPIRIT OF HOMEOPATHY (NOTES)
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