#1610s

[history-of-fashion]

1605-1625 Adam van Breen - Winter Pleasures

(Gemäldegalerie, Berlin)

[fashionsfromhistory]

Waistcoat Panel

c.1615

England

Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession Number: T.259-1926)

[life-imitates-art-far-more]

Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) "The Judgement of Solomon" (1611-1614) Oil on canvas Baroque Located in the Museo del Prado, Madrid, Spain

[eirene]

Old Woman and Boy with Candles, c. 1616 - 1617 Peter Paul Rubens

[jeannepompadour]

Portrait of a woman, possibly Frances Cotton, Lady Montagu, by Robert Peake the Elder; c. 1616

[gameraboy2]

Head of Medusa by Peter Paul Rubens, c.1617

[artschoolglasses]

Judith with the Head of Holofernes, Cristofano Allori, 1610-12

[shewhoworshipscarlin]

Cloth fragment, 1615-1868, Japan.

[clove-pinks]

Watch "HOW TO GET DRESSED IN A 1610S SUIT: The Modern Maker Workroom BASICS" on YouTube

Just a huge fan of this video. Mathew Gnagy begins in his underwear, which is a long shirt similar in construction to early 19th century men's shirts, but even more gigantic, and a pair of drawers which he compares to Venetians (knee breeches c. 1570-1620). He rolls up the shirt beneath the drawers to pad his hips and the effect is amazing. It really looks so good when he completes the ensemble!

I have been reading Phillis and C. Willett Cunnington's Handbook of English Costume in the 17th Century and The History of Underclothes by the same authors. They mention 17th century breeches stuffed with bombast of "horsehair, flock, wool, rags, flax, bran or cotton" to give the desirable silhouette. (Before bombast referred to an inflated vocabulary it referred to inflated pants.) Quoting Benjamin Jonson: "Stay let me see these drums, these kilderkins, these bombard slops, what is it crams them so? Nothing but hair." (The Case is Altered, 1609).

The video is a great demonstration of "trussing the points" i.e. using ribbons or tape ties to attach the breeches and doublet, which held them together and kept the breeches on. After so much lacing and lacing I couldn't help but wonder how the clothes could come off in a timely manner—but he takes the suit off and strips to his underwear to show how quick it is to undress! (Much to consider).

An illustration from Handbook of English Costume in the 17th Century shows that the basic suit-shape is the same at midcentury, but the breeches are now held up by metal rings under the doublet skirt and the ribbon bows peeking out are decorative.

[digitalfashionmuseum]

Beige Silk Waistcoat, 1610-1620, British.

Victoria and Albert Museum.

[sunlilys]

artemisia gentileschi. salome with the head of saint john the baptist, 1610-1615.

[history-of-fashion]

ab. 1615 Frans Pourbus the Younger - Anna of Austria

(Galleria Estense)

[fashionsfromhistory]

Waistcoat

1610s

England

Fashion Museum Bath via Twitter

[life-imitates-art-far-more]

Guercino (1591-1666) "The return of the prodigal son" (1619) Oil on canvas Baroque Located in the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna, Austria

[eirene]

Daedalus And Icarus, 1615 - 1625 Anthony van Dyck

[jeannepompadour]

The artist’s wife, Jane Bacon, Lady Cornwallis, by Nathaniel Bacon, 1614-17