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#1820's fashion
nniivek · 1 year
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Today without aftg. Today 1820-s
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97-liners · 8 months
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I've been thoroughly enjoying your kpop takes recently 🤣 You seem very sane 👌👌
I just thought I'd throw in my thoughts since album collecting was brought up 🤷‍♀️🤷‍♀️
(Please feel free to roast me as you see fit 🙏)
I love collecting albums but I don't really get the pre-ordering thing. I've pre-ordered a handful of albums before but people who pre-order theirs favs every single time? Why? You don't even know what it sounds like or looks like??
I collect albums for many different reasons. Of course if I really like the album musically I will buy it but I'm also really into photography and fashion and makeup ect and so if I feel mid on the album musically but I really like it visually I'll still buy it. I mean the album is 99% a picture book so like it seems justified to want to buy it based on the visuals. That being said I won't buy an album full stop if I hate it musically no matter how pretty. But if I'm just out and about in a place that sells albums I'll buy one as a silly $20 purchase every once in awhile too yk?
At the end of the day I think collecting can be as serious or unserious of a thing as you want as long as it's adding something positive to your life yk?
Seeing the different concepts and designs/layouts for albums is something I really enjoy from an artistic standpoint
Are my albums collecting habits/views too much? How much grass do I need to touch🤪🤪🤪
I also collect photocards but I would never buy multiples of an album to try to get the one I want. I just find the pc I want online and buy it 🙈
i'm not the ultimate arbiter of the line between normal behavior and insane wasteful consumerism, but i think you're very normal?!?
i love collectors. i think everybody needs a hobby, and i think there's a lot of merit to collecting physical media. kpop albums albums are a wealth of art and pop culture. and collecting is fun! i mean, i have a bunch of kpop albums myself, and one of my biggest regrets is not having any money in high school and not being able to buy copies of my favorite second gen kpop albums. one of these days i am going to buy the misconceptions for us and just spend a whole afternoon poring over the pages and listening to the albums over and over again!! i love love love my wayv albums, i have every single one and i really do frequently take them out and flip through the pages. the wayv albums, especially totm, are beautifully designed!!!
like, you're totally fine. i respect and love album collectors. but in the end, there's a huge difference between collecting albums, and blindly buying 10+ copies of the same album just to boost numbers for some dudes you think are hot.
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shrd44 · 10 months
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This isn't just a t-shirt—it's an emblem of your unwavering determination and hunger for greatness. Grab your 'Unlimited' tee today and become the embodiment of limitless potential. Ready to shatter ceilings and redefine what's possible?
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curioscurio · 2 months
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Reading a lot of Sherlock Holmes, and trying to draw victorian men accurately will lead you to learning that people wrote on their shirt cuffs often in ink because they were detachable and usually made of extremely starched linen or PAPER. working class men would find them stiff, overly formal, or not worth spending the money on it, but if you were mid to upper class then it was expected that you wear just as much complicated, sillohuete focused shapewear as women. Victorian men also wore corsets, especially military men, to achieve that puffy chest and flat stomach look around the 1820's.
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The male corset fad had died down a little around the turn of the century (1880-early 1900's) as women fought for more comfortable and less oppressive shapewear, and effeminate men ridiculed for wearing the once fashionable and even medically recommended undergarmet. However, the male corset in the 1880's was still fairly popular enough to be advertised by dressmakers!
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(Forgive me not citing my sources at the moment, but these advertisements I believe are dated around 1880 when mens corsets fell out of popular style but were still available and fashionable in certain circles.)
Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that Dr. Watson, being both a medical and military man... probably wouldn't have worn a corset at the time of his deployment around 1880, unfortunately. ( I know, we're all dissappinted.)
Not that he couldn't wear one if he wanted to! But based on ACD cannon, I really feel that he would not be the kind of guy to wear one. Call it speculation, but if I had been deployed and then shot in the shoulder and leg, wearing a corset would be all but torture on my body. Let alone trying to wrestle an injured soldier out of one while trying to stitch him up. Corsets for military men were more of a fashion statement than a medical device; and even then, it was only helpful for orthopedic reasons (back problems mostly).
It was also around that time that the Women's Dress Reform movement began. Despite the Sherlock Holmes novels being ripe with period-typical misogyny, I like to imagine that Watson would side with the women and medical professionals on this one, in that they were often restrictive, unnecessary, and medically harmful in the long run.
Sherlock Holmes, however, absolutely has a large variety of both male and female corsets for various disguises and probably wears them often. This isn't explicitly stated in canon or anything, I just feel it in my heart.
Sorry if this is all over the place or not completely accurate! I went down a rabbit hole but am totally open to any corrections! Also I think the idea of Watson lacing up Holmes and grumbling about corsets is a funny visual lol
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telekinetictrait · 7 months
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"Shielded by my own obscurity, and by the lapse of years, and a few fictitious names, I do not fear to venture; and will candidly lay before the public what I would not disclose to the most intimate friend." (Agnes Grey, A Novel – Anne Brontë, 1847)
anne brontë likers we need to unionize.
ah, the 1840s! the brontë sisters, edgar allen poe, charles dickens... and what i can only imagine is an incredibly confusing amount of petticoats. the torso becomes thinner and longer, with the characteristic "point" ending of the bodice. skirts continue to grow, and grow, and grow... you get the point. sleeves fluctuate through this era, but are more often than not kept close to the arms – a major difference from the 1830s. the stereotypical victorian conservatism can be seen in daydresses of this era. speaking of daydresses, it became easier for women of the (gasp) lower class to mimic the styles of upper class women, as fashion moved from trims to the fabric and cuts themselves. its much easier for your average woman to obtain fabric than to obtain jewels, for example. going forward, expect a mix of upper and lower (more accurately, the slowly forming middle) class fashions!
also, i have been flying through these. i have no idea how long this amount of energy and hyperfocus is going to last. also also, to every cc creator that is getting tagged over and over: i'm sorry. it is a cc desert out here and you are oases. also also also: i reused a dress once. i could have sworn i downloaded ten but apparently i only downloaded nine ??
1800-1809 / 1810-1819 / 1820-1829 / 1830-1839
cc links under the cut
see my resources page
ealasaid : buzzardly28's 1840s hairs / bedisfull's pearl and frill headband / kiarazurk's fairytale dress / ikari-sims' princess gloves
echo : buzzardly28's 1840s hairs / jarisimcc's necklace / vintagesimstress' 1841 ball gown / dzifasims' jane gloves
edelmira : buzzardly28's 1840s hairs / simstomaggie's losse bonnet / elfdor's victorian dress #1
eidel : buzzardly28's 1840s cecilia hair / linzlu's colonial cap / acanthus-sims' tied fichu / vintagesimstress' 1843 day dress
elektra : wastelandwhisperer's chamomile hair / linzlu's fancy bonnet / simverses' norse visby fur cape / sunlittides' 1840s day dress
endzela : turquoiseesims' aster hair (download here) / huiernxoxo's mulani gem earrings / simsonico's shining nikki shy lady necklace conversion / buzzardly28's june dress / dzifasims' jane gloves
ernestine : linzlu's sallie hair / lace-and-honey's linzlu prarie bonnet conversion / vintagesimstress' 1843 day dress
estrella : tekri's lucrezia bun / glitterberrysims' victorian era / oydis' esther dress / dzifasims' jane gloves
euphrasie : pandorasimbox's victorian modest daycap / vintagesimstress' 1848 velvet dress
evita : feralpoodles' victoria hair / toksiks' silence choker / acanthus-sims' rose brooch / buzzardly28's summer ball gown
thank you to @buzzardly28 @bedisfull @ikari-sims @jarisimcc @vintagesimstress @dzifasims @simstomaggie @elfdor @linzlu @wastelandwhisperer @simverses @sunlittides @huiernxoxo @simsonico @lace-and-honey @tekri @glitterberrysims @oydis @pandorasimbox and @feralpoodles
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nikkodikko · 7 months
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Some very fancy ladies
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I'm studying victorian fashion for a commission and what better use for my knowledge than to draw the ineffable wives in 1820's attire
Regency fashion my beloved nothing beats a really high waisted dress and some puffy sleeves
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thelibraryghost · 1 month
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A Young Person's Introduction to Late 19th-Century Western Fashion
hello fellow youths
General information Banner, Bernadette. "Exposing Victorian Influencers Who 'Facetuned' Their Photos. (Photo Manipulation was EVERYWHERE)." YouTube. July 17, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Fashion // The Fashionable Plus Size Silhouette from 1820-1910." YouTube. June 5, 2021. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Victorian Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. March 19, 2019.
Accessories Banner, Bernadette. ""Afro-Victorian": Bringing Historical Black Women's Dress into the 21st Century w Cheyney McKnight." YouTube. October 20, 2021. Cox, Abby. "A Fashion Historian Explains the History of the Handbag." YouTube. January 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dangerous Things in Victorian Pockets : Mens Pocket History." YouTube. March 2, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Disgusting and Creepy Victorian Fashion Trends." YouTube. October 17, 2018.
Bustles and hoopskirts Donner, Morgan. "Weirdest Victorian Invention: The Bustle-Chair (and we made one)." YouTube. November 20, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Underwear // The Changing Plus Size Shape from Regency to Victorian to Edwardian." YouTube. May 1, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About Bustles! A Deep Dive into 1870s Fashions." YouTube. December 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why were Victorian Hips Controversial?" YouTube. September 12, 2021.
Cosmetics Zebrowska, Karolina. "I Used Only Victorian Cosmetics For a Week." YouTube. July 26, 2023.
Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Silk Spontaneously Combust in the Victorian Era?" YouTube. August 8, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth About Arsenic in the Victorian Era." YouTube. January 24, 2021.
Gowns Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About 1860's Fashion // What did Civil War-era fashion look like?" YouTube. November 12, 2022. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How did fashion evolve from 1850-1859? // 1850's Fashion Deep Dive." YouTube. October 1, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Victorian Fast Fashion? The Truth about the History of Disposable Clothing." YouTube. February 6, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "19th Century Fashion - How To Tell Different Decades Apart?" YouTube. November 17, 2017.
Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "Following a Victorian Home Made Hair Care Routine (1889)." YouTube. September 11, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in an 1888 Daisy Costume // Easy Bustle-Era Hair Tutorial." YouTube. November 13, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the 1870s & 1874 Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. February 23, 2020. Logan, Mrs. John A. The Home Manual. Chicago, IL: H. J. Smith and Co., 1889. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why did Victorian Women Cut their Hair Short?" YouTube. December 18, 2022.
Outerwear Stowell, Lauren. "It's Hot: Let's Look At Some Bathing Suits." American Duchess. August 18, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "The 1851 Women's Pants That Made The Victorians Go Crazy." YouTube. March 2, 2020.
Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "100 years of Antique Boots." YouTube. February 10, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "How to Make Regency & Victorian Shoes: Beginner Shoemaking." YouTube. June 27, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021.
Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "I Wore a (Medical) Corset for 5 Years. How do Victorian Corsets Compare?" YouTube. November 7, 2020. Banner, Bernadette. "Making Some Frilly Victorian Underwear || 1890s Combinations." YouTube. February 9, 2019. Cox, Abby. "I made weird Victorian underwear (it's a knit onesie) & a pretty 1890s corset || historical sewing." YouTube. March 21, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How 8 Different Historical Corsets Affect the Same Plus Size Body." YouTube. December 12, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "100 Years of Corset History: How 8 Corsets affect the same body." YouTube. November 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Ladies Stay Warm in Winter? || THE EXPERIMENT." YouTube. January 22, 2021. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Women Deal With Their Periods?" YouTube. October 17, 2019.
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visjules · 7 months
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1880s: Dominique is very Masculine, and very Eccentric
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In today's standards, Dominique is a fairly feminine woman. Yes she's wearing a prince inspired outfit, but it's feminized with the tight pants, long stockings, heels, and long hair, but what if I told you that was all considered masculine in the olden days?
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The Time Period
Givn the story takes place when the alternate Eiffel Tower (can't remember the name) was being built, we can assume vnc takes place in the late 19th century, otherwise known as the Victorian era, ranging from 1820 to 1914.
The fashion looked somewhat like this, you can see some similarities to the outfits worn by the main cast.
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Dominique's outfit doesn't really resemble much of the fashion at the time, you can make som mild comparisons to Victorian royal menswear, but I'd say her fashion is more similar to 17th century royal menswear, specifically,
King Louis XIV
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The long hair, the tight white bottoms, the heels, the loose sleeves, the train of fabric behind him, It is said that King Louis was a big womanizer, who does this all sound like? It's almost as if Dominique is trying to be Louis- oh wait.
Also fun fact, King Louis XIV was born in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
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Masculinity & Eccentricity
For us in the present, King Louis XIV looks pretty feminine, and that was probably a shared sentiment in the 19th century, he looked outdated, but that same outfit on a woman like Dominique would cause some controversy if not for her status.
In the 19th and early 20th century, a woman wearing pants was not too accepted, women usually wore dresses, and pants were kept as a sports/work attire. A woman would not just go on about her day wearing a pair of pants, she'd be seen as strange, and maybe even get into trouble. Dominique wearing pants, and very tight pants reminicscent of older eras, is definetly a bold choice.
Her hair is long and straight, which is not how you'd usually describe a victorian woman's hair. It wasn't even that much of a gender thing, but more of a formality thing. Women at the time would have their long hair in an updo. Actually, according to Whizzpast, long loose hair was a thing only models and actresses wore to depict romantisiscm and intimacy.
Dominique's long hair makes a lot of since, she has a bold, eccentric personality, she's not one to conform, she's the current family outcast, but she is also a very romantic person, and is constantly seen in romantic/intimate scenes, so her loose hair really depicts that.
All in all, Dominique's appearance states a bold, romantic blast to the past with a pinch of her desceased brother.
If you want to look into queer subtext, you can assume that''s one of the reasons Noe drinks her blood.
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die-rosastrasse · 1 year
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audreydoeskaren · 1 year
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Abridged History of Qing Dynasty Han Women’s Fashion (part 5: Late Qianlong & Jiaqing eras)
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(artwork from 1782)
Previous posts:
Late Ming & Shunzhi era
Kangxi era
Late Kangxi & Yongzheng eras
Qianlong era
The last two decades of the Qianlong era, the 1780s and 90s, formed one aesthetic continuity with the reign of Qianlong’s successor Jiaqing (1796-1820). This period was characterized by a turn to extreme formal simplicity and what I believe to be a revival of the tastes of the Ming-Qing transition.
We see sleeves of women’s robes, tight fitting and short to create a practical look in the previous era, become wider and longer. The folded cuff design was retained, though now more difficult to manage as the sleeves became wider. In the last post I discussed how the construction of dajin similar to Manchu men’s fashion became en vogue among Han women and replaced the earlier center front closing robes----this remained the same. We see some of the first instances of binding strips being used around the collar and the dajin, which would become a highly popular and elaborate craft later in the 19th century. Around this time, the binding strips used were usually thin and minimal, commonly of a black color. Plain cloth or bead tip buttons were popularized earlier in the Qianlong era, and metal clasp buttons (zimukou) became increasingly rare. The shape of the standing collar remained the same as that of previous centuries, soft, unstiffened and tall.
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Artwork from 1796 showing a group of courtesans. You can see the black binding on some of their robes. A note about the dating of this artwork: while it’s quite a common reference image for Jiaqing era fashion, I wasn’t able to find an exact date until I read about it in the book Pictures for Pleasure and Use by James Cahill (spectacular book discussing the importance of vernacular and commercial art, highly recommend) and he said the date of creation was signed in the cyclical calendar and corresponds to either 1736 or 1796. He was inclined to 1736 because of “similar face shapes” or something to Yongzheng era artworks, but since he wasn’t a fashion historian he probably wasn’t aware that the fashions depicted here would not have been possible before the 1780s, so I think 1796 is instead the correct date.
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Late Qianlong/early Jiaqing era artwork, showing two austerely (and fashionably) dressed women.
The more radical departure from the previous era, however, was the complete eradication of ornament. Robes and skirts of this era were often entirely plain, with no brocaded patterns or embroidery of any kind. Gone were the roundel patterns, quatrefoil motifs on collar facings and decorative strips around skirts----only solid color blocks remained. Pastel colors like light pink, blue and green were among the most popular for robes besides bright blue and red, whereas skirts were white or black.
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Late Qianlong/early Jiaqing era paintings of the Anglo-Chinese school showing the new style of plain garments.
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Artwork from the era showing a woman in a light mustard robe with dusty pink cuffs, white skirt and red sash (sashes were still commonly worn).
The other significant changes happened in hairstyling. The 1780s did away with the iconic tall knots of the earlier Qianlong era, instead moving the mass and volume of hair toward the back. We see the re-emergence of the swallow tail. The front of the hair could be middle parted or completely pulled back. Flowers and other ornaments could be worn on the sides of the hairdo, behind the ears. The general shape of hairstyles stressed horizontality rather than verticality, as was the case before.
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A 1943 copy of a turn of the 19th century original, showing the front and back of hairstyles.
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Bust portrait showing the new hairstyle.
A unique hair accessory of the 1780s and 90s was a new iteration of the mo’e, which now had a sharply pointed triangular front and was worn high on the head instead of at the forehead. I think it became less common as the 19th century approached.
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Export artwork showing a woman musician, likely 1770s or 80s as she is still wearing the ornamented, center front closing robes popular in previous decades.
Minimalism was not to last long, however, and soon decorative patterns began to reappear on robes, sleeve cuffs and skirts. Hairstyles began to gain volume and became more puffed, forming a sort of face framing crown. New styles of decorating skirts appeared, with binding going around the qunmen and the edge of each pleat, and embroidery on each individual pleat. The rectangular or circular patterned patch popular prior to the 1780s returned.
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Early 19th century export painting at the Brighton Pavilion, maybe 1810s. We can see roundel patterns on the blue robe, embroidery on the cuffs and skirt, and the lady in red wears a pointed mo’e.
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Presumably later Jiaqing era artwork, ca. 1810s, showing a group of women. Floral embroidery is present on the sleeve cuffs, the skirts are decorated.
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desertdollranch · 6 months
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This isn't just a question, but I just wanted to thank you for your doll repair master post. I started collecting at a very young age and had no idea what I was doing, but your Tumblr literally taught me how to manage and upkeep my dolls! Whenever I had a question I'd go to that post and you'd always have something on what I needed. It was my Bible when I was fixing a TLC Emily doll. I honestly think that master post is the whole reason my heavily played with childhood dolls still look so good. I've quietly been a fan of your blog for ages. You're the greatest and I love what you do!
Also here's my question, what historical doll do you think has the prettiest collection? Personally I love Josefina's, but I'd love to hear your take :)
Thank you so much for this message! I'm always so happy to hear stories like these. I made my doll repair tutorials for people like yourself, who want to help their doll friends look and feel their best. It's a sad fact that sometimes people end up selling or giving away their older dolls who need repair, either because they aren't aware their dolls can be fixed, or they think the process is too expensive. And a lot of people do fall out of love with their childhood dolls when they're in bad shape.
So my goal is to help people to continue loving their dolls and keeping them around, if that's what they truly want. And to not be afraid to buy secondhand dolls and restore them, as well! Buying secondhand dolls who need some TLC is a good way to collect dolls on a budget.
As for the prettiest collection, Josefina's is my pick, too. The color scheme, the blend of contemporary 1820's fashions with the traditional Mexican china poblana clothing, and all of her sweet little accessories, that does it for me. I love it. Honorable mentions go to Addy's and Caroline's collections.
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dolphin1812 · 9 months
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The light imagery in this chapter is fascinating:
“These antique visages and these Biblical names mingled in the child’s mind with the Old Testament which he was learning by heart, and when they were all there, seated in a circle around a dying fire, sparely lighted by a lamp shaded with green, with their severe profiles, their gray or white hair, their long gowns of another age, whose lugubrious colors could not be distinguished, dropping, at rare intervals, words which were both majestic and severe, little Marius stared at them with frightened eyes, in the conviction that he beheld not women, but patriarchs and magi, not real beings, but phantoms.”
Light often represents progress in this novel, so it’s not surprising that the conservative royalist salon is shrouded in shadow. The “dying fire” points both to their dim, limited vision of the world and the fact that their ideology (in Hugo’s view, as his idea of progress is linear) is dying out. With the exception of Marius, everyone at this salon is elderly (”their gray or white hair” points to this) and dressed in “gowns of another age.” They’re out of touch with fashion and politics, but Marius - who has only seen shadows - doesn’t know that.
The idea that they’re “phantoms” further stresses their connections to a past period, as if they were ghosts from the ancien régime. However, that supernatural tie also adds in Marius’ fear and respect for them. Fearing phantoms isn’t surprising, nor is listening to them out of that fear when they appear. 
Marius himself, however, is full of light because he’s a child, making him an almost contradictory blend of brightness (his youth) and darkness (his politics, learned from Gillenormand). In many ways, he’s similar to the time period of some of these salons:
“Nothing in history resembles that quarter of an hour which begins in 1814 and terminates about 1820, with the advent of M. de Villèle, the practical man of the Right. These six years were an extraordinary moment; at one and the same time brilliant and gloomy, smiling and sombre, illuminated as by the radiance of dawn and entirely covered, at the same time, with the shadows of the great catastrophes which still filled the horizon and were slowly sinking into the past.”
Gillenormand’s influence is a “shadow” on Marius, who himself becomes gloomy and “severe” because of his upbringing. At the same time, he may maintain some “light” because he has the potential to change, just as France did.
The ideas on teaching presented here are intriguing as well. Marius’ education makes him a “pedant,” but we’re not given much detail besides the fact that it’s classical and that he then goes to law school. We also know that he was made to learn the Old Testament “by heart,” and while religious education may have been distinct from his studies, combined with the use of “pedant,” it implies that all of his studies focused on memorizing and reciting what was told to him (just as he repeats Gillenormand’s political opinions). His perspectives, then, may not have been challenged in his studies, either. Ironically, the “ultra” attitude of the salon may have been the best argument against royalism, but Marius is ill-prepared to think about that.
Also! A brief note on the galleys:
“M. de Port-de-Guy, bald, and rather aged than old, was wont to relate that in 1793, at the age of sixteen, he had been put in the galleys as refractory and chained with an octogenarian, the Bishop of Mirepoix, also refractory, but as a priest, while he was so in the capacity of a soldier. This was at Toulon. Their business was to go at night and gather up on the scaffold the heads and bodies of the persons who had been guillotined during the day; they bore away on their backs these dripping corpses, and their red galley-slave blouses had a clot of blood at the back of the neck, which was dry in the morning and wet at night. These tragic tales abounded in Madame de T.’s salon, and by dint of cursing Marat, they applauded Trestaillon.”
Although this story was told with the intention of cursing the French Revolution, it also speaks to its failure to truly change the criminal justice system. Perhaps aristocrats and bishops hadn’t been the targets of the monarchy, but the galleys were unjust regardless of who they were punishing. The guillotine, in a similar vein, is horrific regardless of who it targets; the detail is difficult to find in this large block paragraph, but the details about the blood do make it stand out a bit more, showing both how these stories could have affected Marius as a child (this is pretty gruesome and would easily make him hate and fear enemies of royalism) and the genuine violence of the Revolution and the systems it left in place.
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msculper · 4 months
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OK so as a out of practice history buff i wanna ask for some of your fav examples of how historical fashion trends mirror cultural/social changes…. go nuts with this one i love information
HI HELLO THIS MAKES ME SO EXCITED i've narrowed it down to four of my favorites (with the caveat that i study american history so this is verryyyy western-centric)
this got long with pictures so... under the cut
1. marie antoinette's chemise a la reine
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this one has gotten a lot of attention in past years, but it's still one of my favorites! so the picture above is two portraits of marie antoinette in very different dresses. the right is the more traditional court dress of the late 18th century: silk, with lots of ruffles, bows, lace, and layers. the left is one of the most scandalous portraits of the century. in both a huge pr moment to prove how very relatable she was, marie sat for this portrait wearing her approximation of what peasants wore.
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this picture is much closer than marie's version (side note: i trust abby cox, pictured above, with my life because she literally wrote the book on clothing in this era). what marie is wearing is much closer to women's undergarments at the time, hence the name 'chemise a la reine,' or (essentially) the 'underdress of the queen.' but the style took off! and lead to more fabric movement over the next fifty years or so in popular fashion
2. free black women in the european colonies
this one i learned about frustratingly recently from the amazing creator khensani on instagram but i haven't stopped thinking about it! so free black women in the 18th century were subjected to all kinds of clothing restrictions designed to enforce class lines along racial lines by prohibiting them by wearing silks, jewels, and other more luxurious materials. khensani has started using visual sources from the caribbean to try and piece together what free black women in south africa wore to express themselves under these clothing restrictions. i can't really speak intelligently on it yet, but from what i've seen, free black women put together incredibly intricate ensembles that reflected their african roots and repurposed the garments and materials available to them to create variations on european standards.
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3. napoleonic war
let's talk menswear!!! one of my favorite shifts ever for western men's fashion came in the early 19th century. in the first 10-20 years of the century, men's fashion was some variation of this getup:
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very clearly inspired by the 19th century, with the coat designed to show off fabric and breeches to show off one's shapely calves (no seriously... fashion is conspicuous consumption and tight stockings showed off the muscles that grow from horse riding, which carried several status indicators). but then by the end of the 1820s, men's fashion looks more like this ensemble from 1833:
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the waistcoat and jacket are more practical and almost uniform-like. of most note: the breeches have become trousers that go all the way down to the ankle (a style that hasn't been fashionable for centuries at this point). so what changed? anybody? bueller?
sailors came home from the napoleonic wars! and, with a wave of fresh, brave, strong men to flirt with, women flocked to them instead of the men who'd been home all war. this is an illustration of a french uniform at the time, which very clearly inspired the updated cut of... all the garments:
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the main takeaway: the same men who made fun of women for wearing corsets that hid their natural silhouette changed their whole pant situation to look more like the hot, working class studs those women were into. classic.
4. consumption chic
before heroin chic or anorexia chic, there was tuberculosis chic. that's right: the biggest killer of the 19th century was also a fashion statement. tuberculosis (aka consumption, for the way people seemed to waste away from the inside), like many other diseases, caused wait loss, pallor, and flushness. so when western society was obsessed with small waists* and paleness (a product of both racism and a time when lower classes toiled outside and upper classes lounged indoors) as markers of attractiveness, tuberculosis gained a strange relationship to fashion. one could become more fashionable - not to mention interesting - if one contracted tuberculosis, as people were so obsessed with death and dying that it was desirable to die a long drawn out death surrounded by your loved ones. but people also tried to catch tuberculosis to change their skin tone, or would use chemicals and makeup to mimic the visual affects of tuberculosis.
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this fashion plate shows two things, regarding color: look at the difference between their skin color and the white of their gloves (yes, they're wearing gloves). now look at the coloring on their cheeks. it's that level of paleness that - unless you're me and my irish ancestors - is impossible to achieve without a deathly illness. this right around/after a time period when women would draw on veins to make their skin look lighter. and if tuberculosis both makes your skin whiter and flushes your cheeks? two for one deal, baby.
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like, maybe she's had better days, but look how thin and pale that skin is!!! fashion!
*contrary to popular belief, 19th century westerners did not care about the literal, measurable size of one's waist (unless you were insanely, top 0.0001% and had nothing better to do) as much as they cared about the relative size of one's waist. in the fashion plate above, the women's waists look so tiny in part because of the frills on their sleeves and their hoop skirts. these garments were specifically constructed to give the illusion of a tiny waist. so long as your waist was the thinnest part of your silhouette, no matter how thin that thin was, you were in style
thank you for the ask! and if you made it this long, double thank you!!
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ben-the-hyena · 1 year
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Now that I am back in the Haunted Mansion fandom with fresher set of mind and headcanons, here is finally a good non exhaustive HC info dump for my favorite character the Hatbox Ghost himself for new stuff I've made up or never told before in the tag !
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I've been hesitating but in the end I've been influenced by @it-be-sid and accepted it : Hattie is autistic. It fits my take on him of hyperfixating on specific things (my old silly headcanon he is a huge fan of TLK Scar, and canon that he collects hatboxes and is passionate about it) and being great at them, of being an introverted asocial grump who avoids the ballroom and graveyard party because it makes him uncomfortable and requires efforts from him and is more at ease woth the brides in the calm attic, has a hard time making friends and Emily is his big exception and why he has been single and alone for decades prior, hates change and has a hard time adapting to new things and prefers how it was back in his day, and why he enjoys being a scary ghost so much since it allows him to not interact with society anymore and just boo them away. IT ALL MAKES SENSE WHY DIDN'T I EVER THINK OF IT OR ACCEPT IT EARLIER !?
He needs the tiniest spectacles to read, which makes him look nerdy to some and cute to others
As you guys know I HC his name is Randall Pace, from the SLG comics (just the name, not the mentality or origin story though) and that he and most recognizable characters died in 1877 (I DON'T CARE WHAT THE CURRENT CANON SAYS LORE CHANGES ALL THE TIME IN THAT FRANCHISE). He was born in Khansas countryside in 1820. His parents were not dirt poor but they certainly struggled, but were loving and supportive to him and each other, and worked hard at the grocery store to make sure he would have a good life despite his disability (born limping needing a cane and hunchbacked) and could afford his training in hat making which he had found himself to be loving quite early often fixing his parents' hats with glee. Either from the hard work or how life wasn't easy in general, it isn't certain, they died when he was a young man. Grieving and recently new hatter, he didn't feel like staying but starting a whole new life in Louisiana (gonna accept the Mansion is around New Orleans since it's recurring in a lot of canons) far away to make sure they didn't die for nothing and that he would make them proud starting from 0 with his knowledge, his qualification and all the money left
Force of hardworking mixed in with smart working not to die of exhaustion like they did, he little by little became a renowed hatter at the one shop he started at for how efficiently and quickly he fixed hats and quickly learned to make pretty designs popular with ladies. And keeping up with fashion always helped. He was a brilliant employee who workef assiduously and saved a lot until he could open his own business, Pace & Co. He worked alone for a while until he finally could afford himself some employees and teach them how to do it. Good with money anf quality business, by the time he was in his 50's it took him long enough but he had made himself a great fortune. But a mysterious one not very popular among the elited since he never attended society parties lol
He never approved the slavery existing in the south, his humble family having worked and known POC neighbors and treating each other as equals. He always glared with intense disgust at slave owners when they still existed and made them pay much more than needee, and was very glad the war was lost where he was. In fact one of his first employee was a free young black man he had hired, taught and paid very well after he had been freed. When Hattie got married, he was his right wing man and when he died suddenly the very same night, Pace and Co went to him since there was no other heir to the company but him. It still exists to tgis day with a new name (his name is Zeke Holloway. Yeah I know usually I am the first to be annoyed when a character is raceswapped since to me it is obviously unnecessary and to get brownie points BUT I see HM as the same logic as the superhero genre : a ton of continuities where everybody is different from one reality to another, heck the Beating Heart Bride is black in the 2003 movie and Japanese in Tokyo DL lore and Constance is black in the recent Muppets movie so why not !)
He never had been in love with anyone before Emily. Whom he met at age 55. Ever. She had been his first love and kiss just like he was to her. His autism/lack of need for socializing and love for being left alone mixed in with his dedication to his work and focus on his hobbies and passions with a touch of him not being attractive at all (not ugly per say, but... yeah, not attractive) not helped by his disformities, golden tooth and how he balded like all men in his family from his mid 30's didn't make him know anyone before. Not the time to meet, nor anyone into him making the first step anyway. He would be lying if he said back then he didn't feel regret as he got old he would never have a family or know that feeling, but had ended up accepted it and embracing his bachelor status, even rejecting offers from important families who saw profit if their daughters could be with that rich old man with a nice inheritance at key. He did intend to reject Miss Emily Gracey and was not interested at all and it was mutual, they agreed not to play along with her family who insisted for them to get to know each other so it should have stopped there. And yet, force of speaking and learning about each other during these forced meetings... you know how my headcanons go <3
Yes I also imply there he also was a 57 years old virgin and Emily wasn't the only one to pop her cherry that night when they couldn't hold themselves anymore after 2 years of courting and got jiggy the very night he proposed. It was very awkward for both of them, but they are so in love it remains a very pleasant memory for both. Ironically now he is dead he is less tired and feels no more back pain, now after 156 years of marriage he is VERY experimented and knows jist what shr loves so he rocks her world to the other brides' dismay. Or anyone passing by when it happens, really
As you know I have been drawing him and his wife with silvery wedding bands for years as an excuse/justificatiin about why we don't see them on their animatronics like it would if it were golden, him being grey and she being in the dark. Now I even made an origin : they were his parents'. They were not rich but like their son would later had a love marriage and had made sure to have the luxury to have silver rings, not gold but still precious. When they died, he took them with the intent to maybe use them one day if he were to find his half (not that he looked very much) and keep them as family heirlooms in the meantime for how much they symbolized their love and how much he shipped it. So when decades later he proposed to Emily and the wedding was being organized, he sweetly suggested her to use those with the story going behind them, for how much they meant to him and how it could make their marriage as strong as theirs was. Emily found it so romantic and sweet she accepted, and to this day their skeletons in their graves have them and themselves wear ghostly versions of them all the time
Ghosts don't need to eat or sleep obviously, they just do out of gluttony and sloth, comfort and rest, and recretional purpose. He is one of those who eat and drink the least (he already skipped meals when alive so imagine now), but he is a slut for gumbo, beignets and poboys. Gosh does he love Louisiana food. For it he is that clip with Homer in New Orleans. However he loves to sleep. He can cuddle with his wife that way, but also he just always loved to sleep. It helped as a mortal with his back pain, and even now he doesn't feel pain anymore it comforts him to do so
He had broken his tooth when falling from the ladder when clearing up shelves in his shop once. He wasn't that mad, he saw it as the opportunity to show off his well-earned wealth by making the new one out of gold
Indeed Hattie loves to look good, as a mortal he had multiple hats, attires and shoes for any occasion. An extravagance he had loved to afford ever since he got the money for it. The fact he died pantless in his most humble attire and cloak is a source of frustration if pointed out. Whenever he can leave his ghost gig for a moment he swaps for MUCH better ones
He still fixes hats and even makes new ones for any ghost who asks. For free now since ghost money isn't earned from work (I still have to figure out how), but his ego is flattered they still come to him even in death for that. He is now as scary as talented, Hell yeah. He also is a good fashion adviser for men and women alike when they want to wear something over their usual ghostly versions of the attires they died in
He and Emily did suffer for years to be childless, but he is in a way essentially the Little Blue Bride and the Corpse Bride's (who I remind are sisters and minors on my take) father figure, scolding them when needed and comforting them or giving the best advice he can
He calls Constance a hag or an old hag no matter how she is even younger than he is. It is to enrage her but also how he perceives her since she is his beloathed aunt in law who now lives in HIS attic since 2006. Ironically he calls nothing the Spinster Bride like that, as much as she freaks him out with his extravagant and extroverted she is he does respect and like her. Unlike Constance lol
He can't stand the Hitchhiking Ghosts. When he was banished for 46 years away from the Mansion but not the Graveyard for having accidentally killed Yale Gracey aka the last living Gracey he had to endure them as annoying grave neighbors who kept trying too much to socialize with him or troll him as a mean to "bond". Didn't work at all. Now he nearly hates them as much as his in laws
Being a Gracey by extension, being married to one, he is invited to the annual Gracey-only ballroom, he was even when he was still banished. Sure he came not to embarrass his wife nor cause a scandal, and during his banishment to have an excuse to be in for a night, but he sure is bored and hates being in the same room as Master Gracey (father in law), the Ghost Host (uncle in law) and Constance and be polite to them. It goes as far as them starting to passive aggressively insult and mock each other everytime
He has never been the same again after he watched The Lion King. He isn't a fan of a lot of modern things, but this one, and SCAR... he could make you 1 312932 pages essay to explain how he is a perfect Shakespearean villain in a perfect complex snd deep movie. It kind of bores everyone friends and wife included but at least he is happy, the latter thinks
He and Emily are the annoying TOO lovey dovey and sometimes TOO openly horny couple you would love in fiction but hate in real life, often dancing or being mushy or being super romantic both in gestures and in words. He adorzs her and still can't believe he was sure for years love wasn't for him, she enabled the romantic in him and he SPOILS her whenever he can. They have a new honeymoon in a luxury haunted place for every 5th anniversary and it will never stop. He'd die-die for her and it's mutual
He has managed to tame bats when he was bored during his banishment. He got attached and since then keeps having pet bats. He always call them Batty because he sucks at names. Batty 1, Batty 2, Batty 3... (yes it is based on that cute plush of him, canon)
He is scared of tornados. There were a lot in Khansas. Fortunately none in Louisiana so far, and he is dead already anyway, but he is quite paranoid about the fact it could come one day. One day. ONE DAY...
He also is very scared of the Phantom. I had already mentionned that during his banishment he once tried to find another haunted house and found Phantom Manor which would result in a "GET OUT" type of scenario. As soon as he realized he was very dangerous even to other ghosts as well as a psycho and a tyrant to all the other ghosts who intended to do the same to hil, the Phantom he until then saw as an elegant chap with a cool hat now gives him the same goosebumps the Wolf gives Puss in Boots whenever he thinks he is near. The fact he befriended Mélanie and became friend with her but couldn't help her out still haunts him with guilt
He is of a good nature and kind (as I said he is a great friend, helps with hats and fashion for free, is an amazing husband and was a good boss who hated racism), he is still very bombastic, dramatic, eloquent about anything he is passionate about at the moment (both negatively and positively), a sarcastic grump, the epitome of the meme with the guy who closes the widow to blog in the dark, a deadpan snarker as well as a show off who doesn't really know modesty and loves to habe his ego stroked whether be it by compliments or by being aknowledged as a scary haunt. Nouveau riche syndrome probably
When post-fanon time he and Emily finally gets to find out she had been pregnant the whole time as a ghost (she had died pregnant), and a spell allowed it to come to terms and their daughter Belle to be born, he has been a great father so hard. Sometimes strict, but usually very playful, proud, happy, conniving, silly... she makes him cry with joy often. He is so happy to finally get to experience parenthood with the love of his afterlifr after having craved for it for centuries thinking it would never happen. The light og his death, a miracle who makes the attic even more bearable
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telekinetictrait · 7 months
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"And by the way, Monsieur Marius, I believe that I was a little bit in love with you." (Les Misérables – Victor Hugo, 1862)
next up, the 1860s!! there was a lot going on during this decade, so i once again tried to keep a mix of upper and lower class fashions, as well as throwing in a few more "pioneer" esque dresses. after all, there's only so many petticoats you can wear when your oxen die and you have to walk!
hoop skirts would reach their peak in the middle of this decade, and from there the shape would become elliptical, with most of the "hoop" moving to the back. this would eventually become the "bustle". corsets were still worn, but with the layering and vastness of skirts, the size of the waist would already look smaller in comparison. hairstyles were lower, buns being held at the nape of the neck more often than not. heeled boots were back in style, as you might catch a glimpse of them as fabric moved due to the cage crinoline. near the end of the decade, it became more common to see skirts paired with shirtwaists or blouses instead of matching bodices.
1800-1809 / 1810-1819 / 1820-1829 / 1830-1839 / 1840-1849 / 1850-1859
cc links under the cut!
see resources post for genetics
galateia : buzzardly28's margot hair / nissasims' victorian crinoline
gelsomina : buzzardly28's nell hair / linzlu's fancy bonnet / linzlu's mary louise walking dress
gheta : buzzardly28's 1860s hair #1 / theroyalthornoliachronicles' elisabeth swiss dress recolor
gigi : buzzardly28's penelope hair + hair pearls / simstomaggie's marigold dress
glendora : okruee's georgia hair / historicalfictionsims' ruth dress / kedluu's ankle boots
godeliva : simstomaggie's violet hair + leonore dress
greta : buzzardly28's penny hair / lace-and-honey's linzlu prairie bonnet conversion / johnny149's old west hoop dress recolors
guiying : the-melancholy-maiden's oregon trail bonnet / elfdor's old west teacher's dress
gwendoline : buzzardly28's 1860s hair #2 / linzlu's birthday bonnet / simstomaggie's syndicate dress recolor
gyovanna : buzzardly28's pippa hair / linzlu's fancy bonnet / dzifasims' garibaldi dress
thank you to @buzzardly28 (a LOT of thanks) @linzlu @theroyalthornoliachronicles @batsfromwesteros @simstomaggie @okruee @historicalfictionsims @kedluu @lace-and-honey @the-melancholy-maiden @elfdor and @dzifasims
again, to everyone thats getting tagged over and over: i'm sorry
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gogmstuff · 1 year
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Pre-Victorian 1830s (from top to bottom) -
1820 Young Girl by Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller (Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie - Warsawa, Poland). From tumblr.com/fashion-inspiration-s; fixed spots, cracks, & wrinkled paint w Pshop 1833X20481820 Young Girl by Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller (Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie - Warsawa, Poland). From tumblr.com/fashion-inspiration-s; fixed spots, cracks, & wrinkled paint w Pshop 1833X2048. I believe the listed date is a typo. The coiffure has straight hair with side curls in Victorian style and a big knotted bun.
1832 Eufemia Cattaneo by Sigismondo Nappi (location ?). From pinterest.com/hatibovic/art-ladies/ 875X1200.
ca. 1835 Susanna Jacoba van Martens by Jan Lodewijk Jonxis (location ?). From pinterest.com/hatibovic/art-ladies/; fixed spots w Pshop 1050X1200.
1836 Lady by Charles Long Elliott (Los Angeles County Museum of Art - Los Angeles, California, USA). From tumblr.com/lenkaastrelenkaa 1713X2100.
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