ROSE BROCADED SATIN DINNER DRESS, c. 1892
Unusual color combinations are one of my favorite things to stumble upon, and the 1890s are fabulous for finding them. Deep olive green velvet, black and yellow satin, and floral sprays combine with leg of mutton sleeves and ruffles, ruffles, ruffles!
This dress dates from 1895 and is French, but was imported to the US.
By the time the 1890s hit, we lose the density of the bustle era and opt instead for massive flounces and the rebirth of voluminous sleeves. This dress isn't listed as a mourning gown, but it's got a lot of the elements one looks for in that sort of fashion, including jet beads which were generally reserved for mourning wear.
This gown would definitely be at home in Crimson Peak!
From the Maryland Center for History and Culture.
Evening dress. c. 1894. French. Kyoto Costume Institute.
My recent art history exam was on Japonisme (among other things) and maybe I'm a little bit obsessed at the moment.
Since y’all seemed to enjoy the last lookbook as much as I did making it, here is Miss Florence Ackers, right after she becomes Mrs. Florence Darlington in the early to mid 1890s.
Her style is very relaxed with natural elements like her flower accents and earth tones. She wears mostly separates, for easy mixing and matching, and has more practical than formal looks. Most outfits are suitable for working outside, and some still have the details of a younger girl, like her shorter hemlines and slightly lower necklines.
Her hair is looser than is typical of a married woman in this time, which is due to her independent nature and disinterest in learning trends. However, I also imagine her mother-in-law is beginning to influence her, convincing her to buy new hats and a nice winter coat. Multiple pieces also have embroidery work, which are meant to be the handiwork of her mother, who is a talented seamstress.
CC links below the cut!
House Dress 1: hair / top / skirt
House Dress 2: hair / top / skirt / embroidery
Going Out Dress: hat / dress (SFS link, dress name The Author V2)
Wedding Dress: hair / flower crown / veil / top / skirt
Sleepwear: hair / dress
Party: hair / hat / dress
Hot Weather: shirt / skirt / shoes & tights (Cottage Living)
Cold Weather: scarf / hat & coat / skirt / books (Vampires)
Again, a huge thank you to the CC creators featured! @linzlu @birksche @gilded-ghosts @vintagesimstress @joliebean-sideblog (who's main blog it won't let me tag for some reason!) @clumsyalienn @the-melancholy-maiden @saurusness @anessasims @twentiethcenturysims @imadako @mlyssimblr
Costume design by Leif Heanzo for Virginia Wilson in 1899
Tea gown by House of Worth, 1895
Mme Arnaud, Paris couture ensemble, 1895
I suppose I must be in a purple mood. But then again, when I see a description that includes both satin and ciselé velvet, I do get a little excited. Throw in some leg of mutton sleeves, and I'm there! This dress is from 1895 via Augusta Auctions.
This gown has all the quintessential elements of an 1890s gown, maintaining the very covered up feel of the previous decade by enhancing it with new, exaggerated body shapes. That waist looks so tiny in comparison to the flared skirt and mile-high sleeves.
The velvet here is silk velvet, not the kind you'd find on grandma's sofa. Ciselé velvet is actually cut down to created a pattern after it's been woven, so you get a very damask-like result that adds extra texture and movement. Velvet swallows up light and is particularly gorgeous when paired with satin, IMO.
Riding ensemble. c. 1896. American. The Met Museum.