One Dress a Day Challenge
November: Oscar Winners
Barry Lyndon / Marisa Berenson as Lady Honoria Lyndon
Year: 1975
Designers: Milena Canonero and Ulla-Britt Söderlund
It's interesting how there are certain periods that pop up over and over again in the Academy Award-winning costume designs. The 1920s are one of them, and the 18th century (as a whole) is another.
I had never seen this film before watching parts of it to make screencaps. I see why people say that every frame looks like a painting! She could have stepped right out of a Gainsborough canvas. The movie covers the period from the 1750s to the late 1780s.
Lady Lyndon wears this brown day dress in a brief scene where she comes to say goodbye to her husband before going out for the day with her children. The deep frill of lace around the collar is very attractive. But it's the hat that really draws focus, with the satin bow and ostrich feathers.
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Early 18th (and late 17th) century fashions are so under-utilized in vampire media and I think it's a damn shame.
I don't actually think I've ever seen a single image of a vampire character in an early 18th century suit. Hardly any movies set in that era either, and hardly any historical costumers who do it.
(Even my beloved gay pirate show set in 1717 takes nearly all of its 18th century looks from the second half of the century. Not enough appreciation for baroque fashion!!)
Yes I love late 18th century fashion as much as anyone, and 19th century formal suits are all very well and good, but if you want something that says old, dead, wealthy, and slightly dishevelled, then the 1690's-1730's are where it's at.
(Retrato del Virrey Alencastre Noroña y Silva, Duque de Linares, ca. 1711-1723.)
There was so much dark velvet, and so many little metallic buttons & buttonholes. Blood red linings were VERY fashionable in this era, no matter what the colour of the rest of the suit was.
(Johann Christoph Freiherr von Bartenstein by Martin van Meytens the Younger, 1730's.)
The slits on the front of the shirts are super low, they button only at the collar, and it's fashionable to leave most of the waistcoat unbuttoned so the shirt sticks out, as seen in the above portraits.
(Portrait of Anne Louis Goislard de Montsabert, Comte de Richbourg-le-Toureil, 1734.)
Waistcoats are very long, coats are very full, and the cuffs are huge. But the sleeves are on the shorter side to show off more of that shirt, and the ruffles if it has them! Creepy undead hands with long nails would sit so nicely under those ruffles.
(1720's-30's, LACMA)
Embroidery designs are huge and chunky and often full of metallic threads, and the brocade designs even bigger.
(1730's, V&A, metal and silk embroidery on silk satin.)
Sometimes they did this fun thing where the coat would have contrasting cuffs made from the same fabric as the waistcoat.
(Niklaus Sigmund Steiger by Johann Rudolf Huber, 1724.)
Tell me this look isn't positively made for vampires!
(Portrait of Jean-Baptiste de Roll-Montpellier, 1713.)
(Yeah I am cherry-picking mostly red and black examples for this post, and there are plenty of non-vampire-y looking images from this time, but you get the idea!)
And the wrappers (at-home robes) were also cut very large, and, if you could afford it, made with incredible brocades.
(Portrait of a nobleman by Giovanni Maria delle Piane, no date given but I'd guess maybe 1680's or 90's.)
(Circle of Giovanni Maria delle Piane, no date given but I'd guess very late 17th or very early 18th century.)
Now that looks like a child who's been stuck at the same age for a hundred years if I ever saw one!
I don't know as much about the women's fashion from this era, but they had many equally large and elabourate things.
(1730's, Museo del Traje.)
(Don't believe The Met's shitty dating, this is a robe volante from probably the 1720's.)
(Mantua, c. 1708, The Met. No idea why they had to be that specific when they get other things wrong by entire decades but ok.)
(Portrait of Duchess Colavit Piccolomini, 1690's.)
(Maria van Buttinga-van Berghuys by Hermannus Collenius, 1717.)
Sometimes they also had these cute little devil horn hair curls that came down on either side of the forehead.
(Viago in drag Portrait of a lady, Italian School, c. 1690.)
Enough suave Victorian vampires, I want to see Baroque ones! With huge wigs and brocade coat cuffs so big they go past the elbow!
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"The Release from Deception,"
Carved from a single block of marble, it depicts a fisherman being released from netting by an angel, allegorical to the man being liberated from his sins.
So intricate was the work that 18th-century philosopher Giangiuseppe Origlia described it as “the last and most trying test to which sculpture in marble can aspire.”
Queirolo worked alone on his magnum opus, without an assistant or even a workshop. Even other sculptors refused to touch the delicate net in case it broke into pieces in their hands.
The masterpiece is housed at the Sansevero Chapel in Naples, with several other miracles of marble. Namely, "The Veiled Christ" (1753) by Giuseppe Sanmartino and "The Veiled Truth" (1750) by Antonio Corradini.
Francesco Queirolo (1752-1759)
Credit: @Culture_Crit
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One Dress a Day Challenge
October: White Redux
Orlando / Tilda Swinton as Orlando
Orlando is seen trying on this gown soon after waking up in the eighteenth century as a woman. Frock Flicks objects to it on the basis that wide panniers of this sort were only for court dress. While this is true, we don't really know the context of why she is wearing the dress in the movie; she was accustomed to spend a lot of time at court in her earlier time as a man, so why wouldn't she have a court dress made, and perhaps spend some time getting used to walking around in it? I do agree that that central bit at the bottom of the petticoat looks a little odd, but I think it's trick of the light that makes it look shorter than it is.
I'm including a couple of shots of her shift and stays from the dressing scene. I've also included a close-up showing the texture of the material.
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