ab. 1873 Grey blue visiting dress by House of Worth (Charles Frederick Worth)
silk faille and silk taffeta trimmed with steel beads
(Albany Institute of History & Art)
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~ Dinner dress.
Design House: House of Worth (French, 1858–1956); Designer: Charles Frederick Worth (French (born England), Bourne 1825–1895 Paris)
Date: 1880-1890
Culture: French
Medium: Silk, jet
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You can smell the springtime blooms on this remarkable 1882 gown from the House of Worth. It's got all the pieces of late 19th century fashion I just adore, including those sculptural influences. Doesn't it almost look like the kind of detail you'd see on marble statues.
So, this is silk, silk, and silk. Silk flowers, satin, and some gauzy bits, too. The Met doesn't give us any details other than "silk" but it doesn't take a fashion forensics expert to recognize sheers.
One of my favorite things about the 1870s and 1880s is the playfulness with symmetry. Until this point, the vast majority of Western fashion really focused on symmetry in everything. Which is, of course, very lovely. But alongside the rise of mass industrialization came a shift in composition, a desire to fiddle with the rigid structures and emulate nature and, perhaps, a little chaos, too. Perhaps that's one of the reasons it's so very appealing to me.
There's a whole lot more about Charles Frederick Worth over here if you're interested. He was quite the character.
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‘Tulipes Hollandaises’ (1889 ).
Cape designed by Charles Frederick Worth for the House of Worth.
Textile designed by A. M. Gourd & Cie.
Silk and metal.
Images and text information courtesy The Met.
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Evening Dress
Charles Frederick Worth
c.1888
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (Accession Number: 46.204a-b)
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Red silk velvet dress from the House of Worth with changeable bodices, c. 1893-95
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George Barbier, Mlle Jeanne (Jane) Marnac dans "Manon, fille galante". Shoes by Perugia (André Perugia), costume de George Barbier for Charles Frederick Worth, detail. La Gazette du Bon ton, 1924-1925.
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1892-94 Charles Fredrick Worth
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1876-1880 Evening ensemble by Charles Frederick Worth
velvet, lace, beads, silk damask, linen
(FIDM Museum & Library)
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• Dinner Dress.
Designer/Maker: Attributed to Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1895); Jean-Philippe Worth (1856–1926)
Date: 1890–1895
Culture: French
Medium: Silk, metal
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Worth day dress, 1867
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It's been a minute since we shared a Worth gown, let alone a wedding gown. And hello! This dress is one I hadn't seen before since today, from the Palais Galliera in Paris, but it dates from 1904. (Though I could see this as Alexander McQueen.)
The details are sparse, but we can tell a few things. It's absolutely encrusted in beads, so it would have weighed a lot! The silhouette is still very much late Victorian, from the gigot sleeves to the up-to-the-neck coverage. It's trimmed in fur, so it's likely this was a winter wedding setting.
It uses entrelac (which is a netting/crochet/knitting method) to create these gorgeous lozenges that glitter and define the pattern on the surface of the dress.
Given the date, this would not have been a C.F. Worth design, but one of his sons'.
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Green velvet court dress, ca. 1888, Russian.
By Charles Frederick Worth.
Indianapolis Museum of Art at Newfields.
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