A self-respecting gentleman ought to have an overcoat. Historically, this is more winter wear and made of heavy fabrics but we’re trying to achieve the fancy and flowy cultivator look so I opted for light, sheer fabric. Also, I put in too much work on the bottom layers to cover all that up. The actual construction of the coat is self-explanatory so I won’t elaborate here. The real prize here is the shoulder embroidery. I hate hand embroidery and I spent a cumulative grueling 120 hours hand-stitching Suzhou embroidery.
Suzhou Embroidery in a nutshell:
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Suzhou embroidery is one of the highest forms of embroidery that is meant to mimic detailed paintings using thread. It is known for its vibrancy and masterfully blended colors through the use of multiple shades of mulberry dyed silk in one detail. Suzhou itself is actually pretty close to Gusu, where LWJ is from, and I can see him shopping there. (more like commissioning) So try as I might to avoid the ordeal, I sat down and watched the great masters and embroidered 2 damn massive clouds onto my dachang. In total 5 colors were used to shade the clouds for dimension. Yes I used the aforementioned silk thread. And as both clouds were embroidered by hand, they don’t look exactly the same but I would like to implement boobie logic so therefore sisters but not twins. There’s nothing informative in my embroidery video. Only proof that I suffered.
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The Gusu clouds were not mirrored on opposite shoulders because they are the family emblem and not just decoration. LWJ is a filial son, he would never treat the house emblem so frivolously. There are less expensive and time consuming ways to give uncle a stroke.
Here are some shots of the complete dachang being worn, courtesy of Dr. Tog.
cos委托, aka cosplay commissions, are quite popular in China—girls will pay cosplayers, usually other girls (for safety reasons and likely because more girls tend to cosplay otome game characters) to go out with them for a day as their favourite characters. this can involve theme parks, dates or even bridal shoots
Hi! I have a question. Im not entirely sure if these belong to chinese fashion because I only ever saw them in uncredited pictures. Theyre very intricate "eye patches", seemingly made from like gold or metal? they cover only one eye and I was wondering if they have a name or if its something made up? thank you for all your work!
Hi, thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply! (x)
The intricate gold/metal "eye patches" covering only one eye that you see are most likely based on "半面妆/Ban Mian Zhuang" ("Half Face Makeup"), a popular Chinese novel written by 萧十一狼/Xiao Shi Yi Lang and published in 2015. Well-known Chinese gufeng-style illustrator 古戈力/Gu Ge Li provided beautiful artwork for the novel, as seen below (1, 2):
Gu Ge Li's artwork inspired many hanfu photoshoots with ornate eyemasks (1, 2, 3, 4, 5):
These eyemasks are essentially made-up fantasy masks with Chinese elements incorporated into the design. They are not based on historical Chinese masks, which look very different. Thus you can just call them 面具/mianju, which is the general Chinese term for masks.
On a related note, similar types of fantasy masks also appear frequently in Chinese guzhuang (period costume) films & dramas, especially in the wuxia and xianxia genres. As @audreydoeskaren touched on in this post, these masks are typically not historically accurate, but are included for aesthetic effect (like many other elements in guzhuang media).
Below - fantasy masks in Chinese film/dramas. Clockwise from top left: women - Painted Skin: The Resurrection, Legend of Nine Tails Fox, The Empress of China, The Blue Whisper; men - Love and Redemption, Xuan-Yuan Sword: Scar of Sky, The Untamed, Battle Through the Heavens:
Deriving inspiration from art and television, fantasy masks have become a popular accessory for hanfu photoshoots.
For more examples of Chinese masks (both historical & fantasy), please see my masks and eyemask tags.
Given my cosplay history, I am no stranger to monochrome. My characters seem to wear either all black or all white. To make an outfit like that work you need to layer and think more on your fabric choice. So different shades of white or blue and different textures were used to make LWJ something interesting to look at other than being a cloud or steamed bun.
Also, most of the bias tape, ribbons, and lapels were made from scratch. They’re all basically bias tape of varying sizes and functions.
This whole project went from, I’ll just buy the cosplay off Taobao and find someone to do gay shoots with to an intense project that took 2 years to make and, calculating for minimum wage…has a net worth of under $7000! Holy shit what a scary number, I don’t want to look at it again. QAQ Even not counting labor, the material cost is as low as it can get but still...whoa ^^;
All that time and money and I have no remotely descent pics to show for it. These cos-test shots by Dr. Tog will have to do. Some day, I will have a proper LWJ shoot. I hope!
cosplay of daji妲己, a famous ancient chinese beauty transformed from the famous chinese yaoguai, jiuweihu九尾狐, i.e. nine tail fox (coser is shiba chongchuan十八重川)