Clover Cotton’s Cookbook: cotognata
Autumn is finally here after such a warm summer, and it means I am working hard on jams and preserves. But I wanted to share this recipe for my favourite autumnal sweet: cotognata, a quince sweet. It’s my old gammer’s recipe and, despite requiring very few ingredients, it takes much patience before being able to enjoy the result, not the least because quinces are not the easiest fruits to cook with.
For this recipe I will not give and proportions but ratios. Seven medium quinces will give you about 600 grams of paste. And the fruit-sugar ratio is 1:1
Ingredients:
Quinces
Sugar
A bit of water
Material:
A pan
A bowl
A wooden spatula (event. a whisk)
A large plate
Baking paper
Cook the quinces until they are soft enough for the point of a knife to sink in without resistance. I personally favour the steam cooker because it’s much quicker but boiling them works all the same.
Let the quinces cool for a bit before peeling and chopping them in small bits. Reduce the quinces in a thick, smooth paste with the hand blender.
Put the same amount of sugar as there is quince paste in a pan and let melt with a little bit of water at middle heat (the picture is way too liquid for the purpose but the bubbles should look like that). When the sugar has fully melted and starts bubbling, turn the stove off and add the quince paste until you have a thick, orange mixture.
Turn the stove on low heat and let the mixture simmer for 30-45 minutes, stirring regularly. Lower the heat if the mixture stars making big bubble that pop and splash (warning for the splashes, it burns nastily). The paste will turn a darker orange as water evaporate.
The paste is ready when the spatula or whisk can stand upright by itself. Pour it in a plate covered in baking paper and smooth the surface with a spatula.
Cover with a cotton cloth and let dry for two days before flipping it over on a grid covered with a clean cloth. Cover with another cloth and let dry for another five days before cutting it in little squares and eat.
Store the cotognata in a dry, not airtight box. The paste keeps easily for two weeks (if it’s not eaten before) and will harden slowly.
In honour of Hobbit Day, here’s a long and sometimes discouraging recipe but the end result is entirely worth the hassle. Just be aware you’ll probably start questioning all your life choices leading to this moment halfway through peeling and cutting the quinces, these fruits are a complete pain in the bum to work with.
Also, cotognata is the Italian word for this quince paste, and it comes from ‘mela cotogna’ meaning quince. I learned this recipe from my Sicilian nonna so I use the word she taught me.
3 notes
·
View notes
Quince Paste
Making Quince Jelly is a beautifully thrifty way to spend an afternoon, for it means you'll end up with two different treats. The jelly not requiring the use of the fruit flesh once it's been slowly simmered and strain, one has to find a use for it. They could be eaten as they are, perhaps drizzled with a little honey. But they could be turned into a Quince Paste that lasts for a while and spruces up cheese boards! Happy Tuesday!
Ingredients:
leftover boiled Quinces, thoroughly strained (about 650 grams/23 ounces)
1 1/4 cup caster sugar
Remove lemon peels and pips from the boiled Quinces, and spoon into a food processor. Blitz until smooth, and spoon that Quince paste into a heavy-bottomed pot.
Stir in the sugar, and heat, over a medium flame, until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Then, increase heat to high, and cook, stirring very often, until mixture darkens and thickens, 35 to 45 minutes, being careful that it doesn't burn.
Once it has a dark golden colour and the paste leaves gaps at the bottom of the pot as you stir, remove from the heat and spoon into a rectangle container or a loaf pan lined with baking paper.
Allow to cool and set, then chill in the refrigerator overnight until very firm.
You can either keep your Quince Paste in a sealed container, or wrap it into baking paper and cling film, in the refrigerator up to six weeks.
Serve Quince Paste, in slices, with cheese. It pairs particularly well with ewe's milk cheeses such as French Tomette de Brebis, Basque Ossau Iraty or Spanish Manchego.
2 notes
·
View notes