#avant garde fashion

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Raf Simons 2001 for Non No

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How Post-Punk Influenced Nowadays Fashion

It's been a long time since Malcolm McLaren opened his boutique "Sex" in the 1970s, and Vivienne Westwood equipped the Sex Pistols with their iconic outfits and sent them out onto King's Road. The approach back then was: "Being anti at all costs, against the establishment." Eventually, it turned into "Do It Yourself." It was fashionable because it tried not to be fashionable.

A few years later, members of Joy Division met at a Sex Pistols show in 1976 and started as a punk band. However, it soon evolved into something entirely different. When you listen to old Joy Division songs like "Warsaw" you can clearly hear the punk rock influences, but the band quickly started to deviate from the common motifs of the genre.

The music slowed down. The noisy guitar sound of punk was subdued to appear more intriguing, and Ian Curtis's existentialist lyrics, influenced by authors like Fyodor Dostoevsky, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Franz Kafka, focused not on chaos, rebellion, and hedonism but reflected his fears, physical sufferings, and the absurdity in the face of the zeitgeist and social influences of the 1970s and 1980s, marked by changes and political uncertainty, forced Joy Division to experiment.

They created not only something musically unique but also something aesthetic. For example, with their monochromatic designs on their album covers for "Unknown Pleasures," which is probably the third best-selling T-shirt in fast fashion stores, alongside Nirvana and the Ramones T-shirts. Joy Division ended in 1980 after Ian Curtis hung himself in his kitchen. They not only helped shape the sub-genre "Post-Punk" but were also the unofficial soundtrack of existentialism. The soundtrack that made Joy Division's music feel so genuine. Because it was genuine.

Of course, in the 1960s, there were artists who processed existential themes in their lyrics. A good example would be Lou Reed of The Velvet Underground, who, heavily influenced by literature, dealt with many serious topics in his lyrics. However, it wasn't just their music; it was also their appearance that defined Joy Division. On stage, in promo pictures, and in interviews.

Ill-fitting shirts from army surplus stores, old man's pants, a few pair of derbies, big raincoats. Everything that was atypical for the punk movement, and many other artists, including The Cure, The Smiths, Siouxsie Sioux and the Banshees, Bauhaus, Alien Sex Friend or Sisters Of Mercy, went in the same direction: Through a dark, introspective, sometimes minimalist, but avant-garde aesthetic, they set themselves apart from punk and society, and looking at bands from the Post-Punk Revival from the 2000s like Interpol, Iceage, Molchat Doma, Boy Harsher, or Cold Cave, it quickly becomes apparent that this aesthetic has proven itself for almost 50 years.

This trend was, of course, not only an inspiration for musicians but also for artists, fashion designers, architects, and many more.

One designer that immediately comes to mind is Antwerp-Six member Ann Demeulemeester from Belgium, whose influences clearly evoke artists like Siouxsie Sioux or Patti Smith but also the playful goth look of the 1980s era by Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garcons) or Japan's goth father himself: Yohji Yamamoto.

Her story begins in Antwerp, where she initially studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and quickly got to know the other Antwerp-Six members. She and the Antwerp Six presented their collections at Fashion Week and quickly became highly esteemed designers, now considered among the greatest designers of all time. Many of Ann's collections featured songs by Patti Smith, Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, or The Velvet Underground.

This alone shows the influence of Post-Punk on Ann Demeulemeester's designs. Her asymmetrical cuts and draperies, her monochromatic, Kawakubo and Yamamoto-inspired, mainly black designs were groundbreaking, bringing avant-garde ideas in a consumable form to the people.

Another noteworthy designer from Antwerp is Raf Simons and his collections. Raf Simons grew up in the 1980s and was deeply rooted in the punk and goth subculture, whose influence can be traced in many of his collections or directly referenced by Raf himself. Notable are his A/W96 collection, which includes all-black looks with jet-black dyed hair and long black overcoats, his A/W99 collection with direct Joy Division references, black cloaks, and Gothic looks on the runway.

Raf's most famous collection A/W02-03 Riot Riot Riot! A coveted collection featuring cutoff and distressed hoodies, repurposed military garments, and loaded with punk references through patches. Among them, a bomber jacket with a patch depicting the self-harming Richey James Edwards of the Manic Street Preachers.

Obviously, his A/W03-04 Closer collection with a direct collaboration with Peter Saville, the graphic designer of Factory Records, featuring iconic graphics from Joy Division, New Order, and more.

These two examples of designers actively influenced by this culture are just a fraction. These designers were punks or goths themselves. People influenced by the postmodern identity of the time and post-Soviet tradition. Post-Punk fashion embodies the music of the time it emerged and aligns with deeper considerations. So, it didn't take long for the entire fashion world to embrace this style, partly because "Gothic" and "Punk" became more mainstream, and partly because its aesthetic components were easy to design due to their often penetrating monochromatic minimalism.

Not only goths or avant-garde designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela or Rick Owens, deeply connected to the style and subculture of that time, but also luxury designers like Prada, Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta are incorporating it.

The look is romantic, dark, longing for death, partly edgy, partly overloaded. All aspects that exude a constant attraction from the clothing, as people are often drawn to "the other," sometimes even "the forbidden." The look can also be easily detached from the actual Post-Punk/Goth culture - something postmodernity excels at. The style of the Gothic culture can be perfectly broken down into its individual parts and used as a kind of aesthetic sandbox. Here a thick heavy chain, there's a choker, here big long earrings, add a pair of black high combat boots, a slim-fitted mesh shirt, and preferably paint the nails, and you're done. All things that houses like Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, for example, have done right.

What we see today in the Post-Punk-influenced style and what we interpret as avant-garde should actually be considered a modern tradition. Post-Punk fashion embodies the music and the spirit of the time it emerged and aligns with deeper existential discourses. The design language and atmosphere of that time are now used by traditional fashion houses to incorporate young designers into their ranks and increase their relevance, merely fulfilling their quota to be considered part of the traditional fashion pipeline of LV, Dior, Gucci, and Balenciaga. The avant-garde cannot be seen as so established. The rapid growth these companies have undergone to make billions and the inheritance method of finding a designer to take over the house are enough to profile themselves as industry magnates.

In a world where fashion constantly reinvents itself, the enduring legacy of post-punk culture persists as a modern tradition. From the raw, rebellious sounds of bands like Joy Division to the avant-garde designs of Ann Demeulemeester and Raf Simons, the essence of post-punk continues to captivate hearts and minds. As luxury fashion houses seamlessly incorporate this style, it's vital to recognize the roots and the countercultural spirit that birthed it.

The romantic, dark allure, the edgy overtones – they all beckon, inviting us to explore "the other," even the forbidden. Yet, amidst the mainstream adoption, a call echoes for authenticity. True avant-gardists, whether musicians or designers, carve their paths, declaring, "This is our thing." The new avant-garde emerges not just from runways but from the pulsating hearts of those deeply rooted in their subcultures.

In a world dominated by industry magnates, the journey of post-punk fashion from the underground to luxury houses is a testament to its enduring power. As we witness the evolution, let us celebrate the genuine, the authentic, and the countercultural voices shaping the new avant-garde.

So, whether draped in asymmetrical cuts or sporting a rebellious attitude, the message is clear: The post-punk spirit lives on, and the next wave of avant-garde creators is ready to make their mark, confidently declaring, "This is our thing."

Davis Jahn

[infinitycutter]

yohji yamamoto ss21

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I want your love and I want your revenge💘

MODEL; Tiara Smith

PHOTOGRAPHER; @cleocartwrightphotography

VIDEOGRAPHER; @bangmediaoutlet

FASHION DESIGNER; @bbyvvsfashion

MUA; Andria Vuitton

LOCATION: Chicago Culture Center

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Genia Rubin, Lisa Fonssagrives. Robe: Alix (Madame Grès), 1937

Genia Rubin, Avant-garde fashion illustrations, 1940-1960

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horror fashion by jean louie castillo

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Ziggy Chen SS24 shot at Paris Fashionweek

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Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2007

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Ann Demeulemeester Triple Lace Boot

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WHEN I CAME TO EARTH, 23. 

2023 collection by Kepha Maina.  📸 @irungu_ Production and styling- Bryan Emry @missadhar  @nyakuar_john_

[shifting---patterns]

Wearing Time: Carpe Diem and the Artistry of Anti-Fashion (Pt. 2 / 2)

Continuing since part one of this article was simply too long.

/// Luca Laurini Luca Laurini, distinguished from his peers Cecchetto and Amadei, directs his focus exclusively on clothing within his label Under Construction, eschewing leather and accessories entirely. Established in 2003, Under Construction stands out as one of the most prominent among the four labels spearheaded by the former Carpe Diem design team. While guided by Altieri at Carpe Diem, Laurini honed his skills in knitwear, and his vision for the craft of knitwear and ready-to-wear fashion crystallized during the creation of L'Maltieri and Linea.

Unfortunately I couldn't find any picture of Laurini himself. More space for his creations!

Carpe Diem's prior emphasis on leather processing provided Laurini with the platform to express his ideas about knitwear and ready-to-wear pieces in a manner that was both disruptive and experimental. Post-Carpe Diem, Laurini founded Under Construction with the explicit intent of challenging conventional perceptions of knitwear. The label's name itself implies that Laurini's collection consists of pieces intentionally designed to appear seemingly unfinished. Employing modern technologies and adopting an architectural approach, Laurini's designs are characterized by modern tailoring and urban minimalism.

The Under Construction collection spans from unconventional white T-shirts with uneven seams to black button-down shirts featuring non-traditional stitches. It includes tapered pants with flared crotches and gathered ankles. Laurini remains true to his roots, paying homage to Carpe Diem with a long-sleeved shirt adorned with a blue and white print reminiscent of muscle fibers. These garments embody the philosophy of Label Under Construction, marked by the fusion of technology and architecture with a steadfast focus on craftsmanship.

Through his label Under Construction, Luca Laurini demonstrates that, despite the absence of leather and accessories, he has the ability to craft an impressive array of modern and urban clothing pieces. These pieces stand out for their intentional imperfections and artisanal refinement, showcasing Laurini's commitment to pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion norms.

Sara Lanzi Sara Lanzi, perhaps the lesser-known member of the Carpe Diem family, specializes in the transformative art of clothing, driven by her deep appreciation for knitwear. Serving as the steward of the Linea label at Carpe Diem from 1999 to 2003, Lanzi, a former student of contemporary art, sees the human body not merely as a reference point but as an object for "essential and transformative pieces." Her foray into the fashion world commenced with the presentation of her eponymous women's fashion collection in Paris in 2004.

Lanzi's overarching goal is to harmonize aesthetics and functionality, manifested through monochrome pieces with a strong emphasis on versatility. The Fall/Winter collection of 2006 showcased her innovative prowess, featuring garments that could be worn in various ways—a knee-length dress with a scarf serving as a sleeve or an unevenly draped ribbed tank that seamlessly transformed into a sweater with a collar. Another notable creation was Lanzi's A-line velvet dress, radiating monastic elegance from the front yet revealing a seductively transgressive deep back neckline upon closer inspection.

Sara Lanzi's current collections adhere to a similar concept, accentuating the duality of garments with a more subdued look tailored for the "natural woman." Lanzi's designs exemplify her ability to seamlessly unite aesthetics and functionality, highlighting the duality and versatility of clothing as mediums for personal style and self-expression. Despite her relatively lower recognition within the Carpe Diem family, Sara Lanzi has carved out a distinct place in avant-garde fashion through her inventive approach to knitwear and fashion, proving that her creative ingenuity transcends the boundaries of conventional recognition.

Taichi Murakami (Honorable Mention) Taichi Murakami, the former pattern maker at M.A+ and the founder of his eponymous brand, stands as a prominent figure in the realm of avant-garde fashion. In the mid-2000s, the Gothic clothing movement (here's a brief reference to my blog article "How Post-Punk Influenced Nowadays Fashion") served as a global inspiration for designers, including Rick Owens in North America, and labels such as Julius, Attachment, Devoa, and The Viridi-Anne. While many of these designers share a lineage with Carpe Diem in some way, Taichi Murakami distinguishes himself through his unique and innovative work.

During his studies in Tokyo, Murakami gained experience at Lift, a multi-brand boutique in Daikanyama known for its artisanal brands like Carol Christian Poell and M.A+. Fascinated by Maurizio Amadei's intricate patterns at M.A+, Murakami aspired to work there one day. His goal became a reality after completing his studies when he secured a scholarship to study pattern making in Milan. In 2009, he joined Amadei as a pattern maker at M.A+, where he imbibed a flexible approach to the design process, a departure from the strict Japanese mentality. Amadei's encouragement for Murakami to experiment beyond traditional limits, creating prototypes from various materials, became a formative aspect of his creative journey.

After gaining valuable experience at M.A+, Murakami felt prepared to establish his own fashion line. In 2012, he unveiled his inaugural collection in Tokyo. Murakami identifies more as a clothing developer than a conventional designer, displaying an obsessive commitment to sourcing the right materials before embarking on the design process. With local connections granting him access to adventurous fabric manufacturers, Murakami's refined patterning adapts to the behavior of each fabric, allowing him to shape each piece in unique ways—resulting in garments that are truly one-of-a-kind.

Taichi Murakami's distinctive approach resonates throughout his collections, positioning him as a fitting successor to Altieri and Amadei's design ethos. His work epitomizes a successful fusion of traditional craftsmanship, experimental design, and the freedom to challenge established norms, marking him as a trailblazer in the avant-garde fashion landscape.

///

Carpe Diem's indelible mark on artisanal fashion stands as a testament to Altieri's visionary leadership and the collective creativity of its members. Despite the surging interest in artisanal avant-garde fashion, the prospect of a Carpe Diem resurgence remains uncertain. Nevertheless, the dissolution of Carpe Diem has not dimmed the creative fervor of its members. Each, including Altieri with his "Vnapersona" project, ventures beyond the realm of fashion, infusing art into their pursuits.

Altieri, Amadei, Cecchetto, Laurini, and Lanzi have not only pioneered avant-garde fashion but have also left an enduring legacy, fostering a continued influence embraced by various labels and designers. Their artistic imprints endure, evident in contemporary collections two decades later. The Carpe Diem collective remains a pivotal milestone in the annals of artisanal fashion, its impact echoing through time. As we look to the future, the anticipation lingers for potential developments and projects from Altieri and his colleagues, underscoring their perpetual influence on the ever-evolving landscape of creative expression.

Davis Jahn

[infinitycutter]

ann demeulemeester aw17 detail shots