Book of the month / 2021 / 04 April
I love books. Even though I hardly read any. Because my library is more like a collection of tomes, coffee-table books, limited editions... in short: books in which not "only" the content counts, but also the editorial performance, the presentation, the curating of the topic - the book as a total work of art itself.
björk :archives. A retrospective
Monograph / 2015 / Schirmer/Mosel Publishing House
Iceland, the land of geysers, the largest volcanic island on the planet. Home of the Icelandic pony with its exclusive gait of the tölt and the most active literary community in the world. Soccer mecca and most sparsely populated country in Europe. Icelandic names - for example the highest mountain Hvannadalshnúkur - are hardly pronounceable, although the alphabet does not even know many common letters such as C, W, Q and Z. There is a separate holiday for seafarers and a division of time into 3-hour periods starting at midnight. 16 German cities each have more inhabitants than all of Iceland, which has therefore its own dating app to prevent relatives who are biologically too close from mating. It's a fascinating country.
Given the size of the country, it's probably no wonder that Iceland's pop cultural influence internationally is rather limited. Despite the Nobel Prize for Literature winner Halldór Laxness, whose work I don't know, and the crime series The Valhalla Murderers, which I know thanks to Netflix. But wait - wasn't there something else? Yes, that's right, Iceland has a globally successful Gesamtkunstwerk named Björk. Her contributions to music, video, film, fashion and art have influenced a generation worldwide.
Björk Guðmundsdóttir, born in Reykjavík in 1965, has made a name for herself as a singer, music producer, composer, songwriter and actress with a broad interest in different types of music, including pop music, electronic music, trip-hop, alternative rock, jazz, folk music and classical music. To date, she has sold over 20 million albums worldwide. Certainly not only because of the seemingly endless variability of her compositions, but also because of her voice, which one can confidently call unmistakable. She causes goose bumps, whether you like her music or not.
Little Björk attended music school at the age of five and was taught singing, piano and flute, among other things, for ten years. One of the teachers sent a recording of her singing the song "I Love To Love" by Tina Charles to a radio station. The broadcast was heard and liked by an employee of the Icelandic record publisher Fálkinn and subsequently offered her a recording contract - when she was eleven years old. With the help of her stepfather, who played guitar, she recorded her first album. It contained various Icelandic children's songs and cover versions of popular titles, such as "Fool on the Hill" by the Beatles. The album became a great national success.
At 14, Björk formed the girl punk group Spit and Snot, the maximum contrast program to the children's songs. This was followed by the fusion jazz group Exodus, later Tappi Tíkarrass and Kukl (Icelandic for witchcraft), with whom she developed her signature vocal style. First foreign tours to England and West Berlin followed. Then in 1986 came the formation of the band Pukl, later renamed The Sugarcubes. The first single brought respectable success in England and USA, The Sugarcubes reached cult status. The first record deal with Elektra Records led to the album "Life's too good" in 1988, making them the first Icelandic band ever to become world famous.
The transformation into a total work of art began in 1992 at the latest with Björk's move to London. The first solo album, appropriately named "Debut," became the album of the year according to New Musical Express. Now even Madonna wanted to have a whole album written by Björk, but it remained with the title track "Bedtime Story", she remained true to herself and her love of experimentation. The New York based news magazine "Time" named her the "high priestess of art" and in 2015 put her on the list of the 100 most influential people on earth. She rounded off her visual extravaganza, that even her wardrobe was prominently featured in the major retrospective at New York's Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).
Schirmer/Mosel Verlag is an art book publisher in Munich founded in 1974 by Lothar Schirmer and the commercial artist Erik Mosel. Schirmer became friends with artists such as Cy Twombly and Joseph Beuys at a young age and began collecting their works. By buying and reselling art prints and drawings, he earned the start-up capital for his publishing house. With his publishing debut, he ensured the rediscovery of August Sander, a visual artist of the Weimar Republic. There were various publishing collaborations with the MoMA, and in 2015 there was also the retrospective mentioned above. And of course, in keeping with the protagonist, the publication had to become a work of art itself.
"björk :archives" comes in an elegant slipcase containing six parts: four booklets, a paperback and a folded catalogue raisonné poster with the covers of all Björk albums. A closer look is worthwhile: first there is a thematic introduction by the editor and exhibition curator at the MoMA, Klaus Biesenbach. Then an illustrated essay by Alex Ross, music critic of the New Yorker, which deals with Björk's creative dissolution of musical and aesthetic boundaries. Another by Nicola Dibben, professor of musicology at the University of Sheffield, on Björk's creativity and collaborations. And the collected e-mail correspondence similar to a pen pal relationship between Björk and American publicist, philosopher and literary scholar Timothy Morton.
The book itself, the centerpiece of the edition, is about Björk's seven major albums and the characters she created for them. Poetic texts by Icelandic author Sjón, with whom Björk has long collaborated, are joined by a veritable treasure trove of illustrations: Photos of live performances, stills from the music videos of masters like Michel Gondry or Spike Jonze, Björk in stunning costumes by designers like Hussein Chalayan or Alexander McQueen, and PR shots by star photographers like the duo Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin or provocateur Araki.
The design of the publication quotes music scores and comes from the renowned Parisian design studio M/M. It all adds up to an extraordinary visual masterpiece, a tribute to the magical world of Björk. And that at an hardly believable price of € 19.80. A reviewer on Amazon (no, you shouldn't shop there - support local businesses!) sums it up: "This is a collection of art, stories and references very well organized and assembled with care. The price does absolutely not represent how valuable this product is, I am positively surprised." Positively surprising - that could truly be Björk's mission statement.
Björk's music itself is so rich in pictorial statements that it doesn't really need any exuberantly creative videos to go with it. Therefore, according to Slant Magazine, her best video is her first, relatively simple one: "Big Time sensuality" from her "Debut" album purely shows her joy in music. Here's the link:
Howard Tangye “When I draw someone, I’m not really concerned about the clothing; I look for the body through the clothes. But because I’ve lent my work to fashion publications, and some drawings appeared in the Galliano book, people associate me with this type of drawing.” - Howard Tangye, Figurative Abstract Artist. Howard Tangye has been an influential force in fashion for decades. As ‘Head of Womenswear Design’ at ‘Central Saint Martins’ he tutored the likes of John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane, Julie Verhoeven, Richard Nicoll and Hussein Chalayan. At the same time Tangye kept up his own art practice. The monograph ‘Within’ (2013) offers access to his creative process and output. The book features reproductions of drawings of the many sitters who have visited Tangye at his private studio over the years. ‘Within’ is the first such collection of its kind with never-before-seen portraits accompanied by written contributions from Abraham Thomas, ‘Curator of Design’ at the ‘V&A' and Marie McLoughlin, dress historian at the ‘University of Brighton’. Unwilling to compromise on quality or content, Tangye and design studio ‘STSQ’ worked together to fund ‘Within’. It was as a student at ‘CSM’ that Tangye became inspired by the power of Matisse’s work and developed confidence in his exploration of continuous line drawing. Tangye experiences nervousness before beginning a portrait. To combat this he executes a series of calming rituals in the layout of his materials. He works standing up, often for 3 hours at a stretch, summoning total concentration. He often feels the need to lie down afterwards. (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/CWscZ74A0SM/?utm_medium=tumblr
Nick Knight: The Mind Inside
©Nick Knight, Hussein Chalayan 2010
Nick Knight is known for his visionary approach to fashion photography, bizarre portraiture and innovative lighting techniques. Working primarily with cutting edge designers based in Britain, he has teamed up with some of the greatest creative minds in the past four decades to produce fine art fashion imagery known around the world.
Mostly working in studio, his photographs are often gothic in theme, using motion, liquid, smoke and botanicals to create mysterious and sometimes grotesque scenery. He uses Photoshop heavily, to render a fantasy world unique to his own mind. Another side of his creativity in his personal work is to photograph flowers, every day, in a different way. It is quite a contrast to his edgy fashion work because he uses light in a softer way to carve out the beauty in the texture of the petals and leaves.
The images here were created with British designer Hussein Chalayan, who collaborated with Knight to direct “light makeup” on models. Breaking with Knight’s typically desaturated tones, the two made the model’s faces into a gorgeous distortion. Some would say that is what Knight does best in his photography: to create eerily beautiful exaggerations.
BACK IN TIME: LADY GAGA WEARS MORE CHALAYAN SPRING/SUMMER 2011 “SAKOKU” COLLECTION
Lady Gaga was photographed leaving her London hotel to hit the SoHot Bikram yoga studio on November 4, 2011.
The songstress looked lavish dressed in fuchsia satin dress with a glossy patent leather cream geometric appliqué, round neck, inserts and slits at sides, and a concealed zip fastening along back from Chalayan’s Spring/Summer 2011 “Sakoku” collection.
She accessorized the look with a pair of vintage Versace 789-900 sunglasses ($260). She got hers from Jack’s Eyewear in LA.
Versace “789-900″ Sunglasses ($260.00)
I spy with my little eye an orange leather Hermés Birkin bag that’s being carried around for her by her bodyguard!
These suede abstract-shaped wood wedge sole with cut-out detail and back zip fastening babies belong to FINSK Fall/Winter 2010 “Photosynthesis” collection inspired by the connection between light, plants and the earth.
Celine、Givenchy 竟一直都讀錯？惡補 75 個名牌發音就不再尷尬！
讀錯品牌或設計師的名字，的確是頗難堪的事。無��你準備投身時尚行業，或者只是以購物為嗜好，能讀準拗口生僻的名稱，總會令人另眼相看。但別以為看起來很長的才有難度，平日我們常見的 Dolce & Gabbana、Celine、Louis Vuitton……以英語來發音其實也不太準確。雖說在這國際社會下這不是大問題，但學會它正宗的讀法，除了可以用來展示你對時尚的熱情，也是對品牌的一份尊重呢！以下是 《i-D》整理的 75 個品牌的正確讀法拼音，還附上教學影片，從今開始學起來吧！
Ahluwalia Studio: Ah-Loo-Wah-Lee-Ah Stu-Dee-Oh
Ann Demeulemeester: Ann De-Mule-Eh-Meester
Azzedine Alaïa: Ah-Zeh-Deen Ah-Lie-Ah
Bottega Veneta: Bow-Tay-Guh Vah-Netta
Christian Louboutin: Christian Loo-Boo-Tan
Comme des Garçons: Com dey Gah-sohn
CMMN SWDN: Com-on Swe-den
Dolce & Gabbana: Dol-Chey and Gab-ana
Dries Van Noten: Drees van Know-Ten
Eckhaus Latta: Eck-house La-Ta
Gareth Pugh: Gareth Pew
Haider Ackermann: Ay-Der Ak-Er-Man
Hyein Seo: Hyeah Suh
Issey Miyake: Iz-zah Mee-Yah-Key
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jon Paul Go-Tee-Ay
Junya Watanabe: Joon-Yah Wat-An-Ah-Bey
Louis Vuitton: Loo-Ee Vee-Ton
Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Loo-da-vic De San Ser-nan
Maison Martin Margiela: May-Sohn Mart-in Mar-Jhell-Ah
Marques’Almeida: Mar-Kes Al-May-Da
Marine Serre: Ma-Reen Ser
Marta Jakubowski: Mar-ta Yuk-Ow-Bofski
Miu Miu: Mew-Mew
Noir Kei Ninomiya: No-wah Kay Nee-Nom-Ee-Yah
Paria Farzaneh: Pah-Re-Ah Far-Zen-Eh
Proenza Schouler: Pro-En-Zuh Skool-Er
Pyer Moss: Pee-air Moss
Ralph Lauren: Ralf Lor-En
Roksanda Ilincic: Rok-sanda Ill-In-Chik
Saint Laurent: San-Loh-Ron
Salvatore Ferragamo: Sal-Vah-Tor-Re Fer-Ra-Gah-Moh
Sies Marjan: See Mar-Jahn
Simone Rocha: See-Mone Ro-Sha
Sonia Rykiel: Sewn-Yah Ree-Key-El
Supriya Lele: Soo-Pree-Ya Lay-Lay
Thierry Mugler: Tea-Eh-Ree Moo-Gler
Walter Van Beirendonck: Wal-Tur Van Bai-Ren-Donk
Xander Zhou: San-der Zoo
Yohji Yamamoto: Yo-Gee Yam-Ah-Mo-Toe
Kendall 膺本年最高收入模特，吸金力比前輩 Karlie Kloss 還高兩倍！
Google 2018 年度深圳玩樂排行榜出爐，這個聖誕假期就跟著玩！
年度時尚之最出爐：Google 搜尋榜的 2018 流行關鍵詞頭 4 位！
2018 年寫下歷史的 8 場時裝秀：你可以少看任何一場，就是不能錯過這些！
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