I saw we were sharing clothing ideas 👀 I'm not sure if they fit the vibe of the IF itself but they are in my MC's pinterest board (those are some of the revealing ones because my MC wants to fluster as many people as possible <3)
OMG they fit the vibe perfectly!! Very see through, embroidered with pretty motifs and maybe even with jewels... totally the over the top fashion style for this IF and indecent enough for our shameless MC!
And now I am picturing the scandalized reaction of basically everyone when MC goes out and about with that much skin/scales showing...
Dp you have any good source for clothes and fabric?
Oh yes! I have a few snippets randomly posted in here throughout the years (should be under clothing reference or fabric reference tag), but one of my favorite resources for a lot of design related things is Visual Library! Among the huge selection they provide, they have sections dedicated to clothing by type and style. The only downfall is that all the references here are drawn ones and not images taken from life. I have yet to find a good reference library for live photo references of fabric types and how they drape and fold. My solution for that has been to create what I needed from materials I had at home and take photos myself when I've needed to see how something drapes or falls. Plenty of live references for naked poses out there, which I can understand, but we need to know how to draw clothed people, too! I will reblog this with an update if I ever find a nice resource for a variety of live fabric types.
Some interesting (and body positive) reading for people trying to figure out colours and clothes.
And a little video on how to break the "rules" of fashion theory and create an alt look that still plays to your strengths 🖤☠️
Useful for styling yourself, your alternative personas, your loved ones, and your fictional characters!
do you know what is the name of the white scarf thing worn by women in qing dynasty dramas? thanks!! i love your blog!!
We have a post about this scarf/collar posted a while ago, but I just realised I never actually said what it’s called 😂.
Actually, to talk about Qing dynasty collar, we should go back to this post on Ming dynasty clothes where I linked this video on Ming dynasty upright collar, which is the ancestor of the mandarin collar that nowadays tends to be associated with the Qing dynasty, when in fact it originated from the Ming dynasty.
Originally traditional Manchurian clothes had round collars and not standing collars.
For this reason they would add detachable collars, of which there were two types:
Left: longhua lingjin 龙华领巾 // Right: yingling 硬领
These collars were said to originate from the Shunzhi era, when Confucianism was starting to affect the rule of Qing emperors. Women exposing their necks were then considered unseemly and immodest, which gave way to the need for a collar to cover the neck.
Yingling is what Europeans would eventually call mandarin collar, used by both men and women. It is a pressed collar and worn with clothes of varying formality.
You can in see in Xiangjian’s photo (centre) that the collar lifts off her neck and is a separate piece from the gown.
In winter, yingling would be made of fur for warmth.
龙华领巾 longhua lingjin
Also called just longhua, these are the hanging white scarf worn by women. Longhua first serves the purpose of keeping the neck warm and also covering women’s neck for modesty.
The length of and embroidery on the longhua can sometimes differentiate ranks of different women in the palace. Higher-ranking women will likely have longer longhua. Also the higher the rank, the more elaborate the embroidery. With so many women in the palace, longhua can help tell the relative/approximate rank of different women at a glance.
🤣 they reused Yixiu’s longhua in Zhen Huan on Langhua in Ruyi.
Xiyue’s longhua as noble consort vs. Ruyi’s simpler longhua as consort.
Also, more recycled longhua:
Note below Ruiji’s plain longhua as daying vs. Yuyan’s embroidered longhua - she’s at least guiren here? or maybe even pin.
Younger women would have longhua embroidered with flowers and youthful motifs. Meanwhile dowager empresses and dowager consorts would usually have longhua embroidered with characters like shou (longevity) or fu (fortune).
Liu Xue Hua playing two different empress dowagers and wearing practically the same longhua 😂😂😂. To be fair, this is also based on Cixi’s longhua in the photo below.
Longhua is worn around the neck and with one end tucked under the gown panel between the first and second button of the gown, as seen in the paintings and photo of Cixi below. Most dramas tend to have actress wear longhua incorrectly.
Huan Zhu Ge Ge left to right: Zi Wei is wearing it wrong. The longhua should be tucked into the closing panel of her gown. This is actually how all the women in the original HZGG wore their longhua. And yet in the middle pic, Ling Fei is wearing it correctly. Qing Er is wearing it wrong, even though the longhua is tucked into her gown, it is tucked too low, probably below the second button. The funny thing is, this is a photo of Zhao Lijuan (the actress who played Ling Fei) and Wang Yan (actress who played Qing Er) participating in the same episode of the same variety show (Ace vs Ace). Either they dressed themselves and Wang Yan got it wrong or they had two different people dressing them.
Legend of Ruyi: lol again Ruyi is wearing it correctly while Hailan is wearing it wrong (tucked under itself, not inside the gown). This is because in this drama, Ruyi had her own costume person/team, while another team handled all the other characters’ costumes. This is also why the only person wearing longhua correctly in this drama is Ruyi herself (below):
Everyone in the next two photos is wearing it wrong, either not tucked into the gown (everyone in Ruyi and Xiao Yan Zi), or tucked too low and too loose (Ruo Lan in BBJX and Hua Fei in Zhen Huan.)
Story of Yanxi Palace doesn’t actually bother with longhua at all and either just have the characters wear the round collar with nothing covering the neck, the standing collar or cloud collar (yunjian) (left to right below).
Since there are not many surviving paintings of women in the palace in more informal context (i.e. not formal paintings), it’s difficult to tell when standing collars begin appearing in Qing dynasty dress, so I guess there is possibility that this could be accurate? (The square collar on the outer layer also show influence of Ming dynasty dress.)
In any case, as time went on, standing/upright collar like that in the centre photo start becoming more and more common in the court dress of women in the palace, so longhua can sometimes be omitted, as seen with photos of Empress Wanrong below.
However, photos of court women in the late Qing dynasty show that longhua can still be used, as seen some photos of Cixi.
This combination of yingling and yunjian in Love Story of Court Enemies looks off, though, mostly because the yunjian originated as a hanfu item of clothing from prior to the Qing dynasty, so combining it with the yingling just looks weird ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
More on Qing dynasty costumes in dramas -h
Fuchsia Break Up Robe Adventure
I’ve only gone a little crazy the past week.
The real fabric (both self and lining) are still in transit, which has given me some time to practice construction/put together a flexible pattern. It’s been a bit since I’ve made clothes. I fudged the box pleat a little. In my defense it was late and it’s a practice run to remind myself how the hell lining works--I don’t have a 3D brain... All in all I’m happy with it!
I’m also making the Fuchsia Break Up Robe for a few friends as well as myself, so I’ve been working to put together a pattern I can morph for a range of heights and body types, from 5′9″ to 5′0″.
For those interested, here’s a rough sketch of this pattern, which is for the tallest of my friends (5′7″-5′9″ range). It measure at the following, with 1/2″ seam allowances on the self fabric and 5/8″ on the lining:
* front self (2) - 12”x49”
* back self (2) - 18”x49”
* sleeves (2) - 20”x48”
* collar (2) - 7”x36”
* front lining (2) - 12”x49”
* back lining (1) - 42”x49”
* sleeves (2) - 20”x48”
* sew-in interface (2) - 3.5”x36”
I used the below cut out for the sleeves, but I needed to size them up a bit. 8″ arm holes don’t work for me, so I bumped them to 12″ length between A-F (kept the 8″ between E-A), and added 4″ D-E to 24″ to keep proportions. I kept everything else the same and cut out A-B-C-E-D to get the sleeve shape.