#colored with old highlighters I found in my backpack but they were all dried so I used the colors as different values according to wetness

[argiopi]

on the backs of your mothers

[okaywowcool]

 hey guys! back again for another monthly favorites post, this time for july! read below the cut to hear some of my favorite clothing pieces, new shops, trends, and makeup and skincare items that i’ve used in this past month! 

you can also check out this link to read through my past faves! 

CURRENT FAVE PERSONAL PIECES

Plus Size Grid Print Overall Mini Dress - $24.90, available in 0X - 3XL

Not too long ago I picked up a few pieces from F21 (mostly out of a Strong fear that they would be going out of stock in the near future, lol) and this was one of them. The zipper feels sturdy with the metal they used (I was worried, since this runs slightly bodycon on a non-padded, average curvy body (if you’ve not read about how plus-sized models are commonly padded out to get the “ideal” shape or “ideal” fat distribution, check out this article here by Refinery29.) and the zipper is the functional closure of the dress. The dress has zero stretch, so I was a little concerned about something flimsy that I felt like would break eventually, but so far so good. I’ve worn it with a super cute beatnik type get up out to lunch and errands with my girlfriend (black turtleneck sweater, beret, and chunky black sandals) and felt super cute, but still a little self conscious just since the more bodycon silhouette is something I’m still not super confident in wearing, which is something I’m trying to get better about. So a big recommend! I’m a size 22/24 and got a size 3XL and thought that was perfect, not too tight, but still hugging my curves in a cute way. 

Plus Size Grid Print Tie-front Shirt - $19.90, available in 0X - 3XL

I have a serious problem finding button ups that are cute on me...I have a fairly large bust but smaller shoulders and it’s hard to find something plus-sized that isn’t either totally oversized and weird looking on me fit wise, or so tight there’s massive gapping between the buttons at the biggest part of my bust. But this button up really works for me. I’m not sure if it’s the slightly relaxed cut or the fact that it’s a crop, but it’s absolutely perfect...it’s rare you buy something online and it fits exactly the same on you as it does on the model, but this did and I was so impressed! This is definitely going to be a new staple in my wardrobe, as soon as it’s not too hot to commit to long sleeves.

I ordered a few more things that I haven’t had much of a chance to style/wear yet, but everything worked this go round which is pretty rare...this was very much me that day:

Surgeon General’s Dress - $35, available in XS - 5XL

I’ve been wearing a lot of my own stuff here lately, mainly because it’s so easy to throw on and and still be bold enough for it to feel like a Look, while totally keeping me cool. This dress’s print looks super bold from a distance, but y’all would be surprised to see how long it takes people in an office setting to actually find out what the print is of, since it’s so blown up it can read as abstract. The fabrication is also really good at keeping you out of the hot hot hot hell zone, and is super cute with a breezy sheer cardigan thrown on over it! 

FAVE NEW SHOPS

Avocado Bag, $40

I want to own pretty much everything in this entire store since I found out it existed just a few weeks ago, and if I didn’t have some self restraint I would have preordered at least 3 bags from here so far. Miju Miju is a cute shop full of bags that were originally intended for use as cute, unique ita bags, but they’re also totally cute to use to display your pin collection, or even just leave plain with the empty clear window showing the cute pop of lining color. The fact that they’re convertible from a crossbody purse to a backpack also makes them a literal dream for me, since that’s pretty much the only kind of bag I like to carry. They also have a discount code running right now for the preorder, you can use BOW7 to get $7 off one of these bad boys! I know I want the avocado, egg, and pink coffin ones all sooooo bad. 

Pastel Rainbow Shooting Star Necklace - $60

Petey Hana is an etsy shop with a lot of super cute hand painted jewelry, perfect for all kinds of kawaii fashion styles and also just bold statement pieces. I’m so in love with the obviously hand made look, especially with ceramic and polymer clay jewelry, because it just feels like there’s extra love put into it. Combine that with all the bright colors and I’m just in love with this whole shop! 

Strawberry Milk Cocktail Knit Sweater - $31

I’m not sure why it took me so long to realize that the Ester Loves You collab “Ester loves Chuu” was referring to a shop’s name and not just the cute Japanese kissing sound effect....but it took me until doing that cute request for rabbit purses recently for me to figure out that Chuu was indeed, a store. This shop is adorable and has lots of unique styles in it for super affordable prices. I can’t fit into any of it myself really BUT it’s still been a big inspiration to look at their photography and see how they’re styling their pieces! 

Walk the Line Striped Dress - $78, available in US size 10 - 30

I wanted to use this cute image from Fat Girl Flow, since it was Corissa’s IG where I first saw this shop as well AND because it’s so helpful to see products on non-models. Soncy is a really cute really incredible shop. Y’all know I’m not the biggest fan of the whole Fashion Nova curve look, it just never has felt very “me,” even though it’s a staple for many other plus-sized bloggers/influencers. Soncy feels like Fashion Nova’s classy older sister who has her own very successful etsy business selling fancy leather goods--which is not at all a bad vibe...one part hippie, one part mature, and one part sexy. Still a similar style, but there’s not as much emphasis on the whole Kylie Jenner booty body-con everywhere look, and things just look higher quality...they’re more expensive, but everything in the shop is available in sizes 10 - 30 and everything is miraculously under $100, which is just awesome. 

FAVE JULY SILHOUETTES

Pier Pursuits Cropped Jumpsuit - $64.99, available in XXS - 4XL

Right now, one of the silhouettes I’m obsessed with is super wide leg jumpsuits. This one was really the first one that sparked the intense love for me, the proportions are so unique and perfect and I love that these jumpsuits are starting to show more traditional dress like necklines...this one from ASOS curve does a similar thing which I really adore. 

Front Twist Flutter Sleeve Tee - $9, 0X - 3XL

Twist front crop tees (even the ones that are just from twisting a not in a normal tee!) are just such a look for me right now. There’s something very nostalgic about them, almost like how when tying jackets around the waist was coming back as a styling choice when 90s nostalgia started going strong, that makes me just super happy and it’s a natural type of ruching that is really attractive without looking kind of dated and old. It just looks good on everyone, truly. 

PRINTS & COLORS

Fluted Sleeve Mini Dress in Ditsy Floral - $51 // Infusion Cut Out Bralette in Vintage Floral - $52 // Ditsy Floral Ruffle Jumpsuit - $40

There’s something so nice and vintage feeling about a ditsy floral print, and I’ve been wanting to create some of my own patterns that mimic this feel for a while but still haven’t quite gotten around to it. It’s just such a nice subtle way to wear florals, a print that I tend to be really picky about since they can go ugly fairly easily or run the risk of looking dated or matronly depending (and I mean dated like...2008 versus a nice vintage feel) but ditsy florals just always look so cute and nice, too subtle to ever really be offensive and easy to transition from season to season. 

Daisy Street Cami with Peplum - $24 // True Stripes A-Line Skirt - $38 // Miss Selfridge Pinafore Dress - $56

i’m also just really feeling chambray this month, especially with a subtle white pinstripe. aside from chambray just feeling really lovely to the touch (bc i’m all about those textures y’all) it’s such a lovely soft approach to denim that feels so airy and perfect for summer. 

MAKEUP/SKINCARE

LIPHOP Ombre Lip Balm - $2.59 

I bought this little lip balm for real cheap off of aliexpress a while ago, in quite a few shades since it was so cheap. I’ve found that the darker shades are by far my favorite, though they don’t look quite as dark on me as they do in the photos. It’s very similar to just putting on a little chapstick--these just add a natural little pop of color for a fresh bitten look to the center of your lips while hydrating them overall. I like that it gives that popsicle stain look without the matte feel of some similar products, like Glossier’s Generation G and Colourpop’s Blotted Lip, or the actual commitment of doing a proper ombre lip look. 

Bliss Makeup Melt Jelly Cleanser - $12

This one is actually not one I’ve gotten to try yet (it’s sitting in my cart to be purchased as soon as my current cleanser runs out) but I wanted to include it on this list anyway because I’ve been wanting to try it for a while now. It’s supposed to be a really good dupe for Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser, but has a smaller price tag ($12, vs Glossier’s $18) as well as coming with more product (6.4oz vs Glossier’s 6oz). Last winter I was looking for a good cleanser that wouldn’t dry me out quite as much as my current one does. I’m currently using Tony Moly’s Peach Foam Cleanser, which I think is really lovely in a lot of ways--the foaming is fun, the smell is amazing, and it does really make you feel clean, but it dries my skin out sooooo much right now, even in the summer where I have a little more oil. It claimed to be moisturizing and gentle but I guess my skin is still just too wimpy to take it, and I’ve been looking for a change. This dupe is also rose scented, which I’m super excited about--I’ll be sure to tell you all how it is! 

so that’s it for july! look forward to seeing some of my highlights for august next month and feel free to let me know if there are any other categories you’d like me to add each month! <3 

[artificialqueens]

Back in Black (Trixya) - fueledbymemes

AN: hey! i saw this ask for someone to write a fic like this, so i just did?? this is my first fic submission, so let me know if you all like it!  ~  word count: 7552 

Trixie only felt like this around Katya. She only got the butterflies in her stomach, the hot face, and sweaty hands when she entered that damned study hall room. She had no idea how to treat the situation on anybody’s terms, so she just sat in the back and observed Katya’s personality.

Not saying that Trixie has no idea who Katya is, they’ve only just talked a handful of times. Trixie is far too scared to try to have an actual conversation with her. Plus her anxiety is way too high to even attempt at something like that.

That’s why when Katya walked in, Trixie’s breath hitched as she looked at the girl. Her raven colored hair perfectly matched with her black, ripped jeans and jacket.

This has been Trixie’s life for the past four months. It’s all she ever did and all she ever thought about doing.

She sighed, knowing that she couldn’t stare at Katya the whole period since she actually had homework today. Trixie got out her algebra binder to do the study guide packet for the upcoming test in two weeks. She always got her homework done early so she can have as many free days in study hall as she could. Although, that doesn’t mean she didn’t catch a few glances at her between pages.

After the bell rang, Trixie put away her stuff in a hurry. She looked up and watched Katya leave the room, immediately feeling her face warm up when they made eye contact for a very brief second. Trixie went straight to the bathroom to check up on her hair and makeup.

As always, her blonde curled hair and fleeky makeup was done to absolute perfection. She turned slightly in the mirror to make sure her outfit was okay as well. She wore creamish-yellow shorts and a light pink blouse that complimented her thick body perfectly. It was the one thing that Trixie liked. Nowadays, people thrived off of thick or curvy bodies on girls, and Trixie was the perfect example of that. The only annoying thing about it was any and every straight guy.

Trixie left the bathroom and walked to her next class by herself. The rest of the day was boring and useless. Her mind was stuck on Katya as usual, and she only got happy if she saw her in the hallway in-between classes.

~~~

By the end of the week, Trixie is surprised to say that she hasn’t talked to Katya once. Once she left the study hall room, she looked down at her outfit. She had on a pink mini-skirt and a white, off shoulder, long-sleeved shirt, then an oversized light blue jean jacket to top it off.

Trixie ranted to her best friend, Kim as they walked home together. At least it was Friday. “Kim, I don’t understand. I’m a good person, and I always look cute- or at least I always try to look cute. Why can’t I catch Katya’s eye?” She asked, huffing.

Kim chuckled, looking at her outfit. “Well, would you like me to give you the ‘cutsey friendly’ answer, or the probable truth?” She asked. Trixie crossed her arms, “I don’t know what that’s supposed to mean, but I want the truth.” She reasoned.

“It’s probably because you dress like a Barbie doll. You’re basically if Barbie were a thick lesbian.” Kim told her, and Trixie scoffed out a laugh. “Okay, well at least I don’t look like I’m dressing like a twelve year old.” She reasoned, but Kim shook her head. “You have the style that every twelve year old wants.”

Trixie sighed, “Are you saying that Katya finds me childish?” She asked, but Kim immediately shook her head. “No, no. What I’m saying is that you need to observe what Katya’s friend group looks like. They all dress in dark clothes, not pink. They get black coffee, not pink drinks. They hang out at skate parks, not alone at home. They read, they don’t draw. You get what I’m saying, Trix?”

Trixie nodded, looking up to see that they were stopped in front of her driveway. “Alright, thanks for the insight, Kim.” She said, hugging her friend before running down her driveway excitedly, wanting to raid her closet for anything she could find that matched Katya’s style.

Long story short, Trixie found a handful of good articles of clothing in her closet, then went out shopping with her mom later that night to get some actual good outfits.

~~~

That Monday, Trixie showed up at school with black, high waisted jeans and a black crop top that stopped above her belly button. She had a dark red flannel around her waist and black vans on her feet. Her hair was straightened instead of curled, and she wore dark red lipstick rather than pink lip gloss.

The skinny jeans fit her in the way that would make people wonder how her parents left her leave the house like that, and her bright blue eyes were lined with her usual winged eyeliner. Her highlight was poppin and everything about her was irresistible.

When she first walked in, Trixie went to the bathroom to do an outfit check and almost did a double take. She almost wasn’t sure she was still the same person. She knew she looked like a whole snack, and she would hold her head up in pride.

That day in study hall, Trixie sat in the back as usual and pulled out a copy of “The Perks of Being a Wallflower” by Stephen Chbosky. She had her assignments done ahead of time as usual, which meant she had enough time to read some damn book.

Trixie was so focused on her new character, she didn’t even realize that Katya sat beside her. When the bell rang, Trixie looked up to the direction that her crush usually sat in as a force of habit, but got worried when she saw she wasn’t in the seat. Trixie immediately looked around the room, jumping when she saw that Katya was sitting next to her instead.

Katya chuckled softly when she saw Trixie jump. “Sorry to scare you.” She said honestly. “I just wanted a change in environment for the day, and you’re always alone back here.” Katya pointed out, glancing up and down at Trixie. Trixie felt her face get hot, she just went along with it. “Oh, okay.” She said, the only thing she can think of as a response.

Katya nodded and picked up her own book, starting to read it. Trixie watched her for a few moments before sighing, picking up her own book to read.

Trixie would’ve noticed Katya shut her book and look at her, but she was too busy reading the damned book. Katya just smiled in amusement, she turned to face Trixie and rest her cheek on her hand as she looked over. “Trixie.” She spoke, hoping that’d get her attention.

Trixie jumped slightly, but not enough for it to be noticeable. She just looked over at Katya, hoping her face wasn’t too red for that to be noticeable either. “Yeah?”

Katya smiled a bit, still just amused by Trixie. “You’re wearing black today,” Katya pointed out. “There has never been a day that I’ve seen you wear all dark colors, let alone all black. Plus you straightened your hair. You almost never do that.” She pointed out again.

Trixie just shrugged. She got even more flustered just thinking about how Katya would even think about noticing any of these things. She cleared her throat before speaking up, “I don’t get what you’re trying to do here.” She told Katya honestly. But Katya just shrugged in return, “Neither do I.” She said back, turning away from Trixie to focus on her own book.

~~~

“No, you literally don’t understand. We’ve had longer conversations before, and she’s sat by me like three other times before. The only thing special about it was that she pointed out my outfit. Pointed out, Kim. Not complemented.” Trixie was on a call with her best friend, ranting to her about how today went. “The only people I caught the attention of was any and all fuckboys in the school with the classic line, ‘you just haven’t been with the right guy yet.’ This was useless and a waste of money, even if I did look hot, I’d rather go back to my cutesey outfits.”

Kim shook her head, even if Trixie wasn’t able to see it. “Trixie, take a deep breath, alright? You’re overreacting over literally nothing. It’s Monday, and it was the first time you dressed like that. Just tell the guys to fuck off like usual.” Kim told her.

Trixie sighed, “Alright, whatever. I’m doing my homework then going to bed.” She said, they both said their goodbyes before hanging up. Trixie stood up and put the clothes back in her closet before getting out her backpack to do her homework. It was gonna be a long, boring night.

~~~

Trixie woke up at 5:30 AM as usual, which gave her enough time to get a shower, do her hair, her makeup, pick out an outfit, and go to Starbucks.

Trixie spent the most time in the bathroom, and after getting her shower, she dried her hair with a blow dryer. Since her hair had a lot of volume and was long, it took nearly fifteen minutes for it all to be perfectly dry.

Afterwards, she plugged in her straightener and quickly did her makeup to pass the time. Since she didn’t really do anything different other than lip color. She just did a modern day natural makeup. Nude eyeshadow, winged liner, mascara, light contour, and highlight.

Trixie picked up the flat iron and ran it through her hair to make sure it would be perfectly straight. Luckily, she was patient when it came to her morning routine, so she never rushed.

Once done, Trixie unplugged the straightener and walked out of her bathroom and to her closet. She picked out an outfit and went to her bathroom to change from her night clothes to new clothes.

Trixie walked out of the bathroom to look at the outfit, wanting to make sure it looked good on her. Even though nearly everything she wore perfectly complimented her body. Today she had black ripped jeans with black fishnets underneath. She had a black and grey shirt with a small alien head on the pocket of it.

She nodded to herself, pleased with the aesthetic of the outfit. Trixie put her phone in the back pocket of her jeans, walking over to grab her bag and keys. After putting on a pair of black converse, she went downstairs, shutting the door behind her. She yelled goodbye to her mom and got to her car, driving to Starbucks.

She ordered a regular black coffee, and waited patiently as she watched them pour her cup. When Trixie looked at the cup, she chuckled to herself at the name spelled wrong, the cup read 'Tricksy.’ Well, close enough.

When she turned around to leave the coffee place, she accidentally bumped into someone. Trixie immediately apologized, and her eyes widened when she saw it was Adore Delano, who was one of Katya’s closest friends. No, Katya’s closest friend.

Adore apologized as well, but nearly did a double take as she looked at Trixie. “Damn, I almost didn’t see who you were.” She said, almost shocked. The two were in choir together, so they talked more often than Trixie talks to Katya. “I wouldn’t be surprised if you literally make people cum in their pants just by looking at you. Like, goddamn. You look like you’re in my clique.”

Trixie giggled at Adore’s choice of words. “I doubt that’s even possible, but thanks, I think? It’s just a bit of a social experiment if you think about it from my perspective, it’s not gonna last too long.”

Adore just smiled at her, “Well, it was a compliment. But seriously, good luck trying to reject so many people at once. See you later!” Adore said and waved, walking up to get in the line. Trixie smiled to herself as she left, kinda hopeful for today.

~~~

Trixie walked into the study hall room and sat in the back, fixing her hair to be out of her hair from out of her face. The taste of plain black coffee was still in her mouth, and it wasn’t the most enjoyable taste that she’s had. She’d rather a frappe or something other than regular hot coffee.

Instead of reading right away, Trixie waited to see Katya walk in the room. Although, she sat in her regular seat by her friends rather than in the back again. Katya didn’t even glance at Trixie.

Trixie was a bit taken aback by this, but it was nothing to cry over. She was a mature girl, and she wasn’t gonna get upset over her crush pretending she didn’t exist.

She sighed, getting out the book she had in her bag and reading it. Trixie didn’t know what she did wrong, but she was probably overreacting. When the bell rang, Trixie watched Katya leave as usual, except this time, Katya didn’t look at her.

~~~

By the end of the week, Trixie was turning into a mess as the days went on. The last time she talked to Katya was on Monday, and Kim’s plan was completely irrelevant. Trixie wasn’t giving up though, so she tried a second week.

It was the middle of the week. Trixie was wearing a black skater skirt, a midnight blue crop top, and a black leather jacket. She had no idea why she was still trying, but she told herself that if it didn’t work by the end of the month, then she’d just give up with it.

She got her coffee at Starbucks, the misspelled name that she had almost every morning. Trixie waved to Adore as she did every morning, and left the small shop with the coffee in her hands.

When Trixie got to the school, she was on time like she was everyday. She stood against the lockers as she waited for the bell to ring for school to start. She would’ve sat on the staircase, but her dress was too short for that.

While she was waiting, Trixie read her book to indicate that she did not want to be talked to or that she wasn’t planning on talking to anybody. That didn’t stop most guys though, and today’s guy of the day is Heath (it’s a made up name, nobody in the drag world).

He walked beside Trixie and tried to put his arm around her waist. She jumped and stepped back, looking him in the eye. “Not cool, dude.” She said honestly, rolling her eyes and going back to attempting to reading her book.

Heath chuckled, taking a step closer again. “What’s 'not cool’ is your attitude. I’m sure you didn’t mean that, huh, baby girl?” He said, trying again with her by attempting to put her hair behind her ear.

Trixie huffed, pushing his hand away and putting her book and coffee on the ground after marking her spot in the book. “I wouldn’t have said it if I didn’t mean it, okay? Just piss off, I’m not interested.” She said, crossing her arms to show that he wasn’t allowed to touch her through body language.

“You haven’t even given me a chance, baby girl. You’re actually like I’m going to slit your neck or some shit.” Heath reasoned, getting offended about it over nothing.

“Not interested in guys, including you. Don’t call me that either, if you try to get in my pants again, you’re probably gonna get kicked on the balls.” Trixie said honestly, keeping her pride high so Heath knew she wasn’t joking around.

“Tough crowd..” was all Heath said before walking away, obviously disappointed. Trixie knew that she shouldn’t have to tell guys off on a daily routine, but it happened anyways.

Trixie kneeled down to pick up her book, just in time for the bell to ring. She walked to her locker to get all the stuff for her morning classes. She sat down in her desk once she got to first period, keeping to herself as usual.

She took a sip of the coffee, thankful that the teacher lets the kids have food in the classroom since it was the beginning of the day. Trixie pulled out the book, putting a strand of hair behind her ears so it wouldn’t be in her face when she was trying to read.

Trixie crossed her legs as she sat, humming to herself as she swung one of her legs as a force of habit. She took another sip of her coffee, setting it down at the corner of her desk. At least Trixie was starting to get used to the strongness of regular coffee, but that didn’t mean she liked it.

When the teacher walked in, Trixie averted her attention to the front of the classroom. She sighed to herself, closing the book willingly as she looked up at the teacher.

Trixie was starting to feel as if she were blank, like if she was a robot. She hated not being able to add some fun colors to her life again. She knew she looked damn hot, but it wasn’t worth giving up so much for.

Kim would only tell her that miracles just don’t happen overnight and that she needs to learn how to be patient about it. That’s the thing, though. Katya hasn’t talked to her in almost two weeks now, her plan was going nowhere. Trixie was getting attention from nearly everyone in the school- just not Katya.

Trixie let her mind wander for the rest of the class rather than letting herself pay attention. She’d much rather think about anything and everything wrong with herself at the moment than listen to the science of the periodic table.

~~~

Trixie walked into the study hall room, immediately thinking about how the fuck she was going to catch Katya’s eye. It was unusual, they at least made awkward eye contact a few times a day. Let alone Katya asking for homework answers every few days.

Trixie didn’t understand, she looked like the definition of irresistible and she has for the past week and a half. She didn’t know what she was doing wrong, but she didn’t stop trying to think about what she was doing wrong.

She yawned tiredly, resting her head on her hand as she got out that damn book to read, just wanting to make sure that she’d keep herself busy somehow.

Katya walked in as the late bell rang, she seemed to be out of breath, but when Trixie looked up to glance at her, Katya had a mischievous grin on her face.

The study hall teacher looked up from his desk, obviously seeing that Katya was nearly late. He stood up and walked over to Katya’s desk and crossed his arms, looking at her. “Miss Zamo, may I ask why you were late?” He asked.

Katya looked up at him, obviously not phased. The grin was still on her lips and didn’t fade. “Well you see,” Katya started, taking off her leather jacket as she kept the eye contact. “I wasn’t late, I came in before the bell stopped ringing.” She told him with confidence, sitting back in the desk.

The teacher luckily had a slight sense of humor, which was why he chuckled at Katya’s reply. “Fine then, you got me there. May I ask why you were almost late?” He reworded.

Katya shrugged, crossing her arms as the smile never left her lips. “I was taking care of someone. Specifically, I was setting a guy straight.” She said honestly. The teacher raised an eyebrow as Katya’s comment. “Was it in a way that would get you in trouble?” He asked.

Katya chuckled, shaking her head. “God, no. I don’t handle things physically, I handle things verbally. He thought it would be cute to violate a girls’ personal space and well being this morning, and I made sure he knew that it wasn’t as cute as he thought. And now he’s gonna apologize for his stunt or else I’m gonna blackmail him.”

The teacher nodded, not really minding. “As long as you’re staying out of trouble.” He said and walked back to his desk.

Trixie raised an eyebrow at Katya’s statement, and she didn’t take her eyes off of her. Although, she didn’t see it coming when Katya turned around to look at Trixie, winking at her with the usual smile before turning back around.

Trixie blushed darkly, looking down and letting her mind wander, but before she could think too far, her eyes went to her phone since the screen lit up with a text notification.

Heath: sorry about earlier, i didn’t think i went that far. i’ll be more respectful and considerate.

That’s when Trixie knew; Katya is around when she doesn’t even know it.

~~~

For the rest of the week, it was dry as fuck. The only thing that happened was what all happened on Wednesday, but just as thought, for the rest of the week, nothing ever happened. It was almost like after something happens, Katya steps back from reality and ghosts Trixie hardcore.

Well, it meant Trixie and Kim’s plan was somewhat working, so she’d probably do it for a little bit longer than expected. That was okay for Trixie though, if it meant that any day has a potential for Katya to talk to her, she’s down to do anything and everything.

Although, ever since Katya stood up for her, Trixie can say that she’s been catcalled less. Of course it still happens, why wouldn’t it happen when she’s in a school with horny, straight, teen boys. She was definitely used to it, but it was nice to get a little bit of a break.

Trixie walked into the school, and anyone could easily be able to tell that she was tired as hell. She yawned tiredly as she walked over to Kim, not in the mood to stand by herself today.

Trixie was about to say hi, but before she could open her mouth to speak, Kim beat her to it. “Oh my God, Trixie. You look like you’re fucking dead, what the hell happened to you?” She asked immediately.

Trixie just shrugged, shaking her head. “I was up 'till like 4:45 in the morning. I don’t know what happened, I was organizing my closet so I could have outfit combinations for this week, then I did my homework since I was really behind from not doing it in study hall. After that, I went to go into my mom’s room so she could give me another book because I finished reading the other one all night.”

“Trixie, you’re so stupid, you know that? You’re telling me that you got less than an hour of sleep last night?” Kim asked, crossing her arms.

Trixie just nodded again, going down to sit on the floor. “I mean, at least I still got a shower and did my makeup. I could look a lot worse. Plus I didn’t waste time with an outfit since I picked out the layout for this week.” She mumbled out, pulling her knees to her chest so she can put down her head.

Kim kneeled down and picked up Trixie’s head, shaking her head no. “Trix, you’re gonna get foundation stains on your jeans. They’re black, remember?”

Trixie huffed and pushed Kim’s hand away, looking at her with an unreadable face. “I put on setting spray, it would’ve been fine, smart one.” She said, just wanting to sleep. It was gonna be a rough day already.

~~~

Trixie made it through her first two classes without falling asleep, she was walking to her third now, and nearly fell over a few times on the way there.

Adore was in this class with her, but she was known to be late. That’s why Trixie wasn’t phased when she didn’t see Adore anywhere after she sat down. The class started right away after the bell rang, which hurt Trixie’s head more than it did help.

Trixie’s eyes just became more blurry by the minute, and she started to close her eyes longer every time she would blink. After a few seconds, she jumped up at the sound of the classroom door opening, seeing it was Adore.

She just strided down the aisle of desks and sat down in her own. Even though the teacher was giving her a death glare, Adore didn’t give a fuck as she casually carried on with her life.

After the class settled down after a minute, the teacher went back to her lecture about who gives a shit. Trixie went back to starting out into nothingness as she felt her eyes get heavier and heavier, and before she knew it, she accidentally fell asleep in class.

After the fourty-five minutes of class, Trixie once again jumped awake. Except this time, it was to the sound of the bell ringing. She got her stuff and stood up to leave, before getting called out by the teacher. “Trixie, Adore; come up to my desk.”

Trixie glanced back to see Adore gathering her stuff as well and walking to the teachers’ desk at the same time and they both waited to get spoken to, that is, until Adore got patient and impatiently said, “What do you want?”

The teacher turned around and raised an eyebrow at the attitude in Adore’s voice. “Adore, you have detention next week for coming in late and for the attitude. Trixie, I’m a bit disappointed in you, you’re one of the best students in the class. I’m gonna have to give you a detention too, so you and Adore need to stay after on Tuesday next week.”

With a sigh, Trixie nodded and left the classroom. Adore followed beside her, “At least you won’t be alone though, right?” She said, trying to make Trixie feel better. Trixie just shrugged it off, “I mean, I guess you have a point.”

Trixie broke off into the study hall room and sat down in her usual seat, taking off the black leather jacket she had on today. Since it was a study hall, Trixie didn’t have to worry about staying awake in the slightest.

~~~

Trixie was stressed and felt like she could easily snap at any moment. Last week was rough, Katya didn’t do anything. Monday was the same, and today wouldn’t be any different since she had to stay after for a detention.

Trixie slept through her first alarm, and woke up fifteen minutes late, which made her entire morning routine fucked up. She rushed through everything but somehow ended up to only be four minutes off instead of fifteen.

She glanced in the mirror before leaving, making sure her outfit was good enough. She wore dark red, ripped jeans with fishnets underneath and black converse. For the upside, she had a white tank top and the leather jacket.

Once Trixie double checked, she rushed downstairs and went to get coffee. To make her morning even better, the line was longer than usual, which made her an extra three minutes behind schedule.

On her way out of the Starbucks, she ran into someone and spilt some of her black coffee on her white shirt. Trixie bit her tongue to refrain from showing that the hot liquid really did burn. She apologized to the person and put the lid back on her drink as she walked out of the cafe.

Trixie got to her car and put the drink in her cup holder, then reaching over to the glove box to get napkins so she can at least attempt to clean up the mess. She sighed at the failed attempt and picked up her coffee cup to take a drink. At least they spelled her name right.

Before leaving the parking lot, Trixie tried to zip up the jacket to hide the obvious, dark stain on her tank top. She cursed to herself when she couldn’t get the zipper all the way up since the leather wouldn’t stretch enough for her to zip past her chest.

She just said 'fuck it’ and drove to the school from the Starbucks after undoing the jacket zipper. Once Trixie pulled into the school parking lot, she saw Adore getting out of her own car with Katya getting out of the passenger seat.

Trixie huffed and decided to take the risk. Trixie knew that Adore always carried around extra clothes since she was prepared for literally anything and everything. She sighed, not believing she was about to face her crush like this as she walked towards the two girls.

“Hey Adore, can I ask for a quick and effortless favor?” Trixie asked, watching as Adore and Katya had a cigarette outside of the car.

Adore was about to answer before Katya spoke up instead. “Damn, girl. What the fuck happened to you?” She asked, hinting at the very obvious stain on her shirt. Trixie felt her face heat up, this was the first time Katya ever talked to her for more than two weeks. Adore nudged Katya to hint her to keep her mouth shut, but Katya just smirked. Adore rolled her eyes, “Sorry about Katya, what’s the favor?” Adore asked.

“Well, I hella spilt like half of my coffee on me this morning and my jacket won’t zip up all the way since my tits are too big and basically, I’m just a mess right now. So, I was wondering if you had an extra shirt that I could wear.” Trixie explained.

Adore frowned sympathetically and shook her head, “I took everything home last night so I could wash them. I’m sorry,” Adore said and looked at her. Trixie just smiled and shook her head, “No, it’s fine. I can ask Kim, she’ll proba-” Trixie explained but got cut off mid sentence. “I have a hoodie.”

Both Adore and Trixie’s eyes looked at Katya  who spoke up. Adore smirked and kept her mouth shut as she dropped her cigarette and stepped on it to put it out. Katya ignored Adore and looked at Trixie, “Hold on, I’m gonna get it.” She announced and went to the passenger seat of the car to get a simple black hoodie, doing the same to her cigarette on the way there.

Katya walked back to the other two, handing Trixie the hoodie. Trixie took it and smiled, “Thank you, Katya.” She said genuinely, getting a small smile in return from Katya. “Of course, love.”

They all started to walk inside the school together, and since she was in a bit of a hurry, Trixie just put the hoodie over the jacket without taking it off. It was snug and fit on her, which meant it was meant to be oversized on Katya.

Once they got in the school, Trixie headed to the bathroom, but she turned around when she heard footsteps following behind her. “Mind if I come?” Katya asked, and Trixie’s face turned a shade or two darker as she blushed. “You can tag along.”

Trixie walked into the school’s bathroom, and Katya walked in with her. Katya hopped on the sink counter and looked at Trixie curiously. “I never knew you drank black coffee.” She said.

Trixie took off the hoodie and just shrugged, “I don’t, but I have for the past few weeks. Why you ask?” Trixie responded and set the hoodie down on the counter beside Katya.

Katya just shrugged in return. “I mean, I was just curious.” She stated then let the silence take over for a moment or so before speaking up again. “Are you going through an identity crisis or something? I don’t get why you literally changed yourself so drastically.”

Trixie blushed a bit and took off the jacket, handing it to Katya so she can hold onto it while she cleans up. “It’s a long story, I’d rather not explain it in detail. Basically, my friend and I thought that I should change up my style and preferences to get my crush’s attention. It kinda backfired though, it hasn’t really done any help.”

Katya hummed in thought as she swung her legs from the counter, looking down as she talked. “I mean, why would you want to do something like that just for another person? I don’t get it.” Katya stated, almost as if it was obvious.

Trixie looked at her and looked back down. She walked passed to pick up the black hoodie. “It would make me more interesting and catch her eye.” She said simply and walked into a stall. She took off the tank top and replaced it with the hoodie quickly, walking back out.

“Well, I think that’s a load of bullshit. Whether you believe it or not, you’re admirable without this whole getup. I think if you want to catch your crush’s attention, you should just be your usual self. Whoever it is probably didn’t realize what they had until you changed yourself. Or you can just keep lying to yourself.” Katya said and glanced at Trixie.

Trixie walked to the sink and washed the shirt with the shitty school soap and warm water. “Since when did you talk this much?” Trixie asked with a chuckle, trying to avoid Katya’s statement and her gaze so she wouldn’t be able to catch the blush on her face.

Katya chuckled and continued to swing her feet from the counter, “I talk a lot around people I’m close with.” She stated and brought up a hand to tuck her medium length blonde hair behind her ear.

Trixie chuckled and looked up at Katya in disbelief before going back to focus on desperately trying to get the stain out of the shirt, even though it wasn’t working as much as she hoped she did. “Katya, I’m not close with you. We’ve talked a few times since we’re in the same study hall.” Trixie pointed out.

Katya felt herself smirk as she looked to the side, getting a bit confident. “Well, I forgot to mention that I tend to talk a lot when I’m around really cute girls as well.” She said and looked back at Trixie, unapologetically eyeing her up and down. “Anyways, I gotta blast. I’ll see you in study hall.” She announced and hopped off of the counter and leaving the bathroom after setting down Trixie’s jacket. “Keep the hoodie if you want.”

Trixie’s face burned hot as she felt butterflies in her stomach. “O-okay,” she stuttered out, turning around as she watched Katya leave the bathroom. Trixie turned to face the mirror, her eyes still wide. “What the fuck,” she mumbled to herself. She picked up the jacket and walked out of the bathroom to find Kim.

Trixie found Kim and went up to her, “Kim, we need to talk, like right now.” She said in a hurry. Kim looked at her like how a mom were looking at her kid when she was about to yell at them for walking off in the store; stern but secretly worried. “Trixie, what the hell. You’re later than you usually are. Where did you even come from?”

“No time,” Trixie said before continuing her sentence. “Listen, something happened between Katya and I. When I went to get coffee this morning, I spilled it all over me. Then, when I got to the school parking lot, I saw Adore and Katya. I almost didn’t, but I had to go up to Adore and ask to see if she had a spare shirt since she always has half her closet in her car. Anyways, when she said no, Katya-”

Suddenly, Trixie got cut off by the bell ringing for school to start. Trixie muttered a quick 'fuck’ under her breath and looked at Kim. “I’ll text you it when I get to study hall.” She said and walked off to her locker.

~~~

Trixie walked into the study hall room and sat in the back, pulling out a book to read but just watch for Katya to walk in instead. Out of all the mixed signals she’s been getting from Katya, Trixie is just a bit more hopeful that she feels the same way.

Katya walked in and immediately locked eyes with Trixie as she did, giving a smile before sitting down in her own desk, doing her own thing.

Trixie felt herself smile happily before looking down at her book. After staring at it for about twenty seconds, she thought about what Katya told her earlier about how she should not be a fake version of herself. Trixie hummed and put down the book, getting out her homework she got from earlier classes and worked on that instead.

When Katya looked back at Trixie, she smiled to herself when she was back to doing her usual thing. She turned back around and went back to reading her book before Trixie would notice her stare.

Maybe Trixie’s luck wasn’t as bad today as she thought.

~~~

Trixie walked into the detention room, only to see that Adore has saved her a seat. Trixie smiled at her and sat down, adjusting her clothes after doing so. She sat back in her seat and sighed dramatically, acting impatient since she really wanted to talk to Adore.

After the fourty-five minutes of the detention was over, Trixie immediately spoke up before Adore said anything. “Hey, can I talk to you about something real quick?” She asked and stood up to walk with Adore out of the school.

“Sure, what’s up?” Adore asked and picked up her bag while walking beside her. Trixie blushed before talking, taking a deep breath. “Can you just tell me who Katya likes? I get a lot of mixed signals and I’m really confused. I just, like her a lot and I wanna know.” Trixie explained.

Adore chuckled and looked at Trixie like she was dumb for asking the question. “Alright, well if you wanna know. She had a small crush on you since last year, though it got a bit more serious a few months ago. When you changed up your style, she didn’t realize how much she liked the genuine you and that’s why she didn’t talk to you as much. She told me that when you end your 'social experiment’ of that, then she’d be around you more. Katya thought you looked sexy as fuck for sure, but she could tell it wasn’t the genuine you.”

Trixie blushed and felt her heart flutter, “Awww, I wish I would’ve known that sooner.” She said and put her hand over her heart. “Alright, I gotta go home so I can finish my homework and wash off my makeup.” Trixie said and waved bye to Adore, “See you tomorrow!”

Trixie ran to her car excitedly and unlocked it, sitting down and taking a moment to catch her breath before squealing excitedly. Her horrible day from this morning was now the best day of her life.

~~~

Trixie stopped at the bathroom to check her appearance quickly before walking into the study hall room. She was back to her normal self, finally. Her curly hair was done to perfection. Her outfit was a soft pink dress with a decorative white belt around her waist to exaggerate her hips and white thigh-highs.

She rushed into the study hall room, relieved to see she was the first one there. Trixie confidently walked over to Katya’s seat, where she almost always sat, and decided to sit there like she owned it. She crossed her legs and arms, slightly reclining in the seat.

Once Katya walked in the room to see Trixie both in her usual apparel and sitting in her seat like she owned the damn school, she gave an amused smile, walking over to Trixie. “You know that I sit there, princess. Right?”

Trixie looked up at her and smiled, blowing a bubble with her gum to add the cockiness and sass. “Yeah, I know. What ever shall you do?” Trixie asked.

Katya chucked and raised an eyebrow at Trixie, “Damn, you got attitude today. How about this, we’ll make a deal. If you give me my seat back, you get to take something of mine. Money, objects, clothes, makeup. Whatever your heart desires.”

Trixie’s eyes lit up and she smiled. “That just sounds like stealing with your permission.” She said and got up, letting Katya take her seat. Before she could get passed her, Trixie stopped her and shook her head. She leaned in so she could kiss Katya, her eyes fluttering shut when she felt their lips connect.

Katya was for sure taken by surprise, but she went with it. She kissed back and closed her eyes as well, bringing up her hand to hold Trixie’s face softly as they shared a kiss.

Once the late bell rang a few minutes later, Trixie pulled away and looked at Katya innocently. “Looks like I stole a kiss. Your move is next, love.” Trixie said and blew a kiss before walking back to her own seat to do homework like usual.

Katya turned around and watched Trixie go back to her own seat in literal awe. It took her a few seconds before she actually sat down in her seat. “What the hell just happened?” She mumbled to herself.

~~~

At the end of the day, Trixie walked to her locker so she could go home. She definitely felt happier today, which was all that was important. When she opened her locker, a note fell out and Trixie kneeled down to pick it up so she could read it.

'meet me at the park after school. take your time princess, i wouldn’t want you to feel rushed. xoxo -katya’

Trixie smiled to herself and folded back up the note, putting it in her bag before closing her locker shut. She pulled out her phone and quickly texted her mom to tell her that she’d be home late.

She walked out of the school and got in her car. Trixie started her car and started to drive to the park, which luckily, was less than a mile away from the school.

Once Trixie pulled into the park, she saw Katya alone, sitting on a bench. She smiled to herself at the sight, parking her car. Since the elementary schools and day-care centers still have kids, the park was pretty emptied out.

Trixie got out of the car and walked over to the bench where Katya was sitting. Katya’s eyes lit up when she saw Trixie sit next to her, “You look lovely.” She commented and sat up straighter.

Trixie chuckled softly, “Thanks. So, am I allowed to ask why you told me to come here?” She asked curiously, but Katya smiled with anticipation. “That’s for me to know and for you to find out, princess.”

Trixie liked the way it sounded when Katya called her princess. She tilted her head to the side slightly with an amused smile, “Since when did you give me pet names?” She asked.

Katya smirked slightly at the question, “I always did, I just never did to your face.” She answered. Trixie giggled in return, shaking her head.

The two got along great, they spend two hours just talking and getting to know one another. Both of them have never felt so lively around one person, but they also appreciated it. Kinda as if it were meant to be.

By late afternoon, they agreed on leaving. Katya walked Trixie to her car and stopped so they can say goodbye. “Thank you for an amazing afternoon. Seriously, I don’t think I’ve laughed that much with one person during the timespan of like two hours.” Trixie said and kissed Katya’s cheek sweetly.

Katya smiled happily as she looked at Trixie. “Like you said, my move is next.” Katya said and pulled out a small box, handing it to Trixie with a smile. “Open it.”

Trixie looked at Katya with a raised eyebrow, “I’m not marrying you, Katya.” She said jokingly and opened the box, seeing a rose gold necklace with a heart charm. It suited Trixie perfectly. “Awww, you’re so sweet! Thank you!” She said and immediately hugged Katya.

Katya hugged her back and pulled away to look at Trixie, “There’s a paper on the lid of the box, you should read what it says.” She suggested and tried to hide her smile.

Trixie looked at the box again and removed the lid so she could be able to read whatever was on the top of the box.

'trixie mattel, my sweet princess. will you please be my girlfriend?’

Trixie’s heart literally melted as she read the paper. “You’re so cheesy, get better ideas.” She said with a loving giggle, kissing Katya quickly. “Yes, I’ll be your girlfriend.” She said with a smile.

Katya smiled happily, wrapping her arms around Trixie’s waist and got close to her face, but not close enough to let their lips touch. “Looks like I made the winning move. Checkmate.” Katya said before bringing Trixie in for another kiss.

[dudejonathan]

Day 24: Copenhagen

My last full day in Copenhagen, and I planned to take full advantage! Spoiler alert: I sure did.

After a particularly brutal park workout where I did a lot of sprints up a hill, I ventured on the bus to head to St. Grundtvig’s Church. It’s something my friend Ann told me about (as well as the ‘gram).

The bus was a bit of a challenge (machines not printing tickets, unhelpful bus drivers [Hey! They’re jerks here too!]), but I made it pretty quickly. The church was all brick and very minimalist. Only one tiny cross on the altar (Ann told me that’s the Lutheran style, to be understated and shun the gaudy).

All that said, it was breathtaking. The symmetry and high ceilings were remarkable, and the specialness of the experience was amplified by the organ music. I got goosebumps as I walked around listening to the music, thinking about how my Dad used to go to church in Copley Square in Boston to “feel the organ in his body”. A touching moment.

Once back in the main part of town, I headed towards Niklavs Kunsthouse art gallery, near all the touristy things. It was temporarily closed, which certainly wasn’t documented on Google Maps. I took a work call from a nearby coffee shop, and then proceeded to Rosenborg Castle.

The castle was amazing! I was lucky enough to get there for the changing of the guards. Inside, it would be Francesco de Stales’ Disney. So many artifacts, jewels, art, antique furniture, etc. 3 floors of fun, including a throne room! I’m not sure I’ve ever seen something like that before. It was opulent, to say the least.

After going through the castle, you go through the treasury to see even MORE opulent jewelry and such, as well as ye olde wine cellar.

After that, I made moves towards the near mythic Freetown Christiania. Luckily, it took me through the port area of Nyhavn again, so I could admire all the colorful buildings and boats once more. Once at the end of the port, I crossed the canal on a bridge, which started my journey into really understanding why others (Cassandra Zuffante, specifically), really love it.

The sun was going down and people were hanging on the docks, drinking, laughing and really enjoying the weather. Everyone seems so content! And it’s not always young people, groups of older folks really enjoy their lives as well.

I had a backpack with me, and here it really paid off. The day before on the canal cruise I saw people swimming, and I thought “what if I bring my bathing suit, just in case?” I also brought my compact towel that Becka Goula recommended (its first use!)

I stripped down, got in my suit (short and European, I fit right in!) and got in the water. It was such a cool experience, being in the canal with Danish locals, and watching the sun set. After a picture perfect dive (ruining my good hair day but whatevs) and a nice swim, I dried off and admired the sunset some more. This was everything I wanted, as I had been craving a swim and hadn’t quite had a “Copenhagen moment” yet. Now, to Freetown Christiania.

En route, I passed by Christhavn, a really picturesque area on the canals, and with a bit of nervousness and wonder, entered the commune (I guess that’s the closest word?)

What a place. I liken it a bit to if Burning Man had a permanent location (having never been to Burning Man, this is an educated guess).

I tried to get a lay of the land, and it kind of seems like it’s just a place where people came so they could smoke weed freely? There are definitely some communal aspects of the life here, and the canal tour guide said that there were lots of military buildings that were abandoned, squatted in and then repurposed.

Technology nor capitalism is not eschewed, as I got a Tuborg beer (needed it post swim and wanted to loosen up a bit to look cool in front of the hippies) with a credit card. There aren’t McDonalds or cars, but there are brands and iPhones. So it’s kind of like a commune that’s steeped in reality.

Or perhaps a commune that detaches themselves from the outside world, except for the things they like (or find convenient). For instance, I found a tiny shop “Spraypaint and Sneaks” that was selling spraypaint and Nikes. Nikes! And I passed by a family having an al fresco dinner at a table with what seemed to be nice bottles of wine, as their kids biked home.

There’s tons of interesting street art, and I even saw a lad spray painting something new. Pictures are not allowed there, but I faked a few phone calls (again, the use of modern technology wasn’t atypical, which seemed odd) and snapped some photos. I was damn sly.

Another beer and some shawarma (which did NOT sit well - perhaps the food inspectors don’t come to Christiania or good food prep isn’t one of the hippie values), and I was starting to explore.

Very unique, winding dirt roads with art, homes, hippies, normal seeming people/families, weed odor, spray paint stores, vegan restaurants, weathered buildings, etc. I’ve certainly never seen anything like it.

I felt like an outsider - not unsafe, but perhaps a bit watched. That said, it seems these folks are just living their lives and aren’t bothered by, or bother caring about, tourists. I felt like there was something I was missing about it all, but perhaps they just don’t welcome folks with open arms like a typical tourist place.

As shops closed and it got dark, the place lit up with all sorts of Chinese lanterns. It was pretty great. I was getting the sense as the night fell, I’d become more of an outsider (my floral patterned shoes were likely contributing to that), so I moseyed out, beer in hand, back to the canals.

At this point I was invited to go to Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District with some locals. Estzer, Alex and I popped around a few bars, did some drinking and dancing (was asked if I was a professional ☺️), and then headed to Sam’s Karaoke Bar. This was so random! Also, so awesome!

People smoked in the bar (that wasn’t great - also, damaging those pipes!) and belted out some incredible tunes. Alex kept pushing me to do a song, so after seeing Piano Man wasn’t there (I figured I could outsource most of the singing to the crowd), with foolish confidence I picked Bruno Mars’ Uptown Funk. I tell ya, that guy puts together a nice little jam.

Mercifully between the time of the request and the time of the performance, many folks had left. Turns out I do NOT remember the words well. I turned it mostly into a dance thing, which salvaged it somewhat. Somewhat.

After that incredibly fun and random experience, we sprinted in the torrential rain to one more bar/club thing. Some hazy dancing for awhile, and then I called it a night around 2:30. Wha a fun, long, random day. Definitely a highlight reel day of this trip (so far).

[touristguidebuzz]

30 Photos From Afghanistan That You Won’t See In The News

Traveling in Afghanistan

Afghanistan

Last summer I traveled into the mountains of Afghanistan for a two week backpacking adventure. Not your typical summer vacation destination. Here’s what I witnessed on my journey.

What comes to mind when you think about Afghanistan? War? Terrorism? Osama Bin Laden? The Mother Of All Bombs?

Sure, much of Afghanistan is still dangerous — but there’s also incredible beauty, hospitality and kindness in the country that doesn’t get reported on.

It’s far too easy to vilify or write-off an entire nation when you don’t have to look those people in the eyes. People with the same hopes and dreams as you — to survive, find happiness, and provide for their families.

I was able to experience the positive side of Afghanistan and its wonderful people, up close and personal, during my trip there last summer. It’s since become my most memorable travel adventure to date.

Here are some of my favorite photos of people & landscapes from my 100 mile trek into Afghanistan’s remote and mountainous Wakhan Corridor.

This is the “other” side of Afghanistan that you don’t see in the news.

The Hindu Kush Mountains

Traveling in the Wakhan

Wakhan Corridor

The Wakhan is a rugged and wild region of Northeast Afghanistan, part of Badakhshan Province. It’s a narrow peice of land, about 400 km long, surrounded on three sides by Tajikistan, China, and Pakistan.

Two large mountain ranges dominate the area, the Pamir in the North, and the Hindu Kush in the South. The Wakhan Corridor was created by politicians in the 1800’s during the “Great Game” in an attempt to leave a buffer zone between British India and the Russian empire.

Riding Yaks in the Wakhan

Hitchhiking By Yak

Taking a break from walking, I managed to hitch a ride on a yak for a portion of the route. We ran into a group of Wakhi men leading their yaks through the mountains. While they stopped for tea, they let us borrow their yaks, which we led further into the valley until their owners caught up with us later.

Yaks are the ultimate eco-friendly 4×4 in Afghanistan, able to climb steep rocky terrain and power through icy cold rivers. There are no trees above 10,000 feet, so locals are forced to trek for 3 days to lower elevations with their animals in order to gather firewood for cooking and warmth.

Ruined Stone Shelter on a Vast Landscape

Trekking in the Wakhan

Ancient Silk Road

The Wakhan was once part of the ancient silk road, an important trading route connecting China to Europe. Along with silk, horses, and other goods, it was a highway for armies and explorers too. Explorers like Marco Polo who is believed to have passed through here during the 13th century.

Crossing steep mountain passes and high desolate plateaus, passing caravans of yaks and donkeys loaded with goods, spending the night in stone shelters with traveling merchants — I felt like I was getting a glimpse of what the silk road must have been like all those years ago.

Muslim Shopkeepers in Afghanistan

My Compatriots in the Wakhan

The Many Faces Of Islam

Just like the many different branches of Christianity, there are many different branches of Islam, all with their own beliefs and values. Many people living in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor are Ismaili Muslims, who practice a moderate form of Islam. They number 25 million worldwide, and despise the Taliban.

Their spiritual leader is the Aga Khan, a successful British businessman and Imam who runs the Aga Khan Development Network, a super important charity organization that improves living conditions and opportunities for the poor in Africa and Central Asia.

Footbridge Over the Wakhan River

Untamed Blue Rivers

The Wakhan River runs through the Wakhan Corridor, fed by the high altitude mountains of the Hindu Kush on the border with Pakistan. It snakes its way through the mountains, and is a major lifeline for the people living in this harsh and unforgiving landscape.

The bright blue color of this water is due to reddish hues of the rock formations around it, as well as the crystal clear source (a glacier). Water molecules absorb other colors, like red, more efficiently than blue.

Enjoying the Wild Landscape

Snowy Mountains in August

Epic Mountain Views

When the weather was clear, I was rewarded with incredible views of the mountains like this! The trail was well worn, as it’s used daily by small groups of locals who travel in caravans of yaks or donkeys from settlement to settlement.

The 10 day trek ranged in altitude from 10,000 to 16,000 feet, and we averaged about 10 miles per day of hiking. I began to feel the effects of altitude on my body around 12,000 feet with shortness of breath. At 16,000 feet hiking became even more tiring and difficult.

Snow Covered Yurts

Kyrgyz Settlement in the Wakhan

Portable Yurts

The Kyrgyz people of Afghanistan are semi-nomadic, moving from valley to valley herding their animals to different grazing pastures depending on the season. They live in cozy yurts made of sheep felt, which can be broken down and transported long distances.

Each settlement consists of 2-3 families living and working together. Originally from the area around Kyrgyzstan, their ancestors were kind of trapped in the Wakhan after the Soviets took over Central Asia, forcibly settled nomadic tribes, and sealed off the silk road route.

Sheer Chai Milk Tea

Salty Milk Tea

Both the Wakhi and Kyrgyz people drink large amounts of salty milk tea, called Sheer Chai. It’s served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Basically, it’s a mix of yak and goat milk, boiled down for hours and dried into a portable block. It’s prepared by adding boiling water, loose-leaf tea, and rock salt.

The salt is great for rehydration at high & dry altitudes — I called it my Afghan Gatorade. It took a while to get used to (salty hot milk anyone?), but by the end of the adventure my body was craving sheer chai for every meal. You can also dissolve raw butter into the tea at breakfast for extra calories.

Petroglyphs in Afghanistan

Afghan Petroglyphs

Near the end of my 2nd day on the trail, we hiked past a set of ancient petroglyphs scrawled into a dark colored boulder overlooking the valley. My local guide, Yar, couldn’t tell me much about them, other than they think these markings are a few thousand years old.

They depict hunting scenes, men armed with what appear to be bows, as well as large game like ibex and the rare Marco Polo sheep. This was just one of many petroglyphs that dot the landscape in these mountains. They are thought to mark ancient hunting grounds claimed by different tribes.

Central Asia Institute School

Kyrgyz Boys Ready for Class

CAI Schools

This simple 3 room school in the remote Afghan village of Bozai Gumbaz was built by Greg Mortenson and his Central Asia Institute. You may have heard of Greg before, he’s the author of the best selling novel Three Cups Of Tea, about building schools for girls in Pakistan.

The school at Bozai Gumbaz, where I spent the night playing cards with Afghan army soldiers, was prominent in his 2nd book, Stones To Schools. The next morning a group of boys showed up on donkeys for class. I saw many CAI schools along the road from Eshkashim to Sarhad-e Broghil.

Camping in Afghanistan

Camping In Afghanistan

As a big fan of the outdoors, one of the highlights on this trip was the opportunity to wild camp in the mountains of Afghanistan. Most nights we were able to stay at small Wakhi or Kyrgyz settlements in basic guest huts, but we also camped out in tents a few nights too.

Normally I’m a camping hammock kind of guy, but because I knew there weren’t going to be any trees for most of this trek, I packed my super lightweight Nemo Hornet 2P Tent. It snowed a few times during the journey — in August!

Greetings From the Heart

Friendly Shopkeeper in Eshkashim

As-Salāmu ʿAlaykum

I was constantly greeted with As-salāmu ʿalaykum which means “peace be upon you”. A shorter version of this is just salām. Shaking hands is common, and so is placing your hand on your heart, which simply means your greeting comes from the heart.

Another important term I used during my journey is taschakor, meaning thank you. I always recommend trying to learn 10 of the most used words in a local language before traveling there. In the Afghan Wakhan, most people speak some Dari (Farsi) along with local dialects.

Afghan Woman Wearing Blue Burka

Wakhi Girl in Sarhad-e Broghil

Women In Afghanistan

Many people were asking if I saw women in Afghanistan. Yes I saw women during my trip, but most were extremely shy, especially if I had my camera out. Plus in their culture, talking with strange men is taboo. But shooting portraits of men or kids was not a problem.

Near the border town of Sultan Eshkashim, which is primarily Sunni Muslim, many women wear the full-length blue burqa that covers their face. In more rural areas of the Wakhan, it’s less strict. Women wear long colorful dresses with a simple headscarf. I was able to say hello and see their faces.

Kyrgyz Tombs at Bozai Gumbaz

Khajahbigali Family Tomb

Shrines & Tombs

I encountered a few ancient burial tombs during my time exploring the Wakhan Corridor. Near the Afghan military outpost of Bozai Gumbaz, there’s a collection of strangely shaped Kyrgyz beehive tombs, along with evidence of Soviet bombing (craters, bomb fragments) from the 1980’s occupation.

At the settlement of Langar, we found a pile of ibex horns marking the burial place of a powerful big man. In Afghanistan, wealthy & powerful men are often called “big men”. It’s a bit like calling someone “boss.” The more animals, land, and wives you have, the “bigger” & more influential you are.

Driving in Afghanistan

Rough Roads

Before I began the 10 day, 100 mile trek through the mountains, I had to hire a 4×4 van to drive me to the last village at the end of the road. We passed a few military checkpoints along the way, stopping for tea & candy with officials before continuing on.

The drive took 2 days, and the roads were some of the worst I’ve ever seen. Dust seeped into the vehicle, covering us in dirt. We forded rivers, drove along the edge of sheer cliffs, and were frequently stopped by huge herds of goats blocking the road. The van suffered 6 flat tires during the journey.

Cooking Lunch in a Stone Shelter

Wakhi Settlement

Wakhi Settlements

While I entered Afghanistan alone, I decided to hire a local translator/guide and horseman to accompany me on the trek into the mountains. It would have been extremely difficult to communicate with people without their help. We spent the night at a few Wakhi settlements during the hike.

Wakhi homes are basically stone huts with dirt floors, constructed using manure for cement. The roof is made of logs, grass, and more manure to keep it waterproof. Some shelters had stoves inside, others just had a fire pit. Either way it was pretty smoky…

Young Afghan Girl in Sarhad

Wakhi Family Living in the Mountains

Children Of The Wakhan

Life in the Wakhan is rough, especially for kids. About 60% of children here die before the age of five, the highest infant mortality rate in the world. If they do survive, they are put to work helping out with the family business — animal herding.

There are a few schools out here, thanks to the Central Asia Institute, but it’s up to the parents if they go. In some communities, only the boys are sent to school. The morning commute can take a few hours by donkey due to the lack of roads and distance between settlements.

Central Asian Bactrian Camel

Wildlife In Afghanistan

I was really hoping to see a snow leopard or Marco Polo sheep while I was traveling through the mountains of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. You know, Walter Mitty style! Unfortunately both of these endangered animals are extremely difficult to spot — but I did find camels!

Luckily the Wildlife Conservation Society has staff in the area, often spending weeks in the field gathering data to protect wildlife in the Wakhan. They estimate there are about 100-200 snow leopards living in these mountains. Wolves and bears also call this wilderness home.

The Country You Thought You Knew…

The Other Afghanistan

So there you go. A peek at the other side of Afghanistan that we never see on the nightly news. After traveling the world extensively for the past 6 years, I’ve noticed this is a common theme.

Don’t let our media, which is primarily focused on negative & sensational topics, be your only window into the dynamics of a foreign country you’ve never been to.

I’m not going to tell you that Afghanistan is safe. It’s not. Our troops who’ve served there can tell you. Afghans themselves are well aware of the dangers that plague their country too.

But I think there’s another side to Afghanistan that deserves some attention. The rugged, scenic mountain landscapes. The friendly, hospitable local people.

I’m hopeful for the day when Afghanistan’s problems fade away, and more travelers can safely enjoy the beauty this incredible country has to offer. ★

Bonus Video! Backpacking Afghanistan

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READ MORE FROM AFGHANISTAN

How To Visit The Wakhan Corridor

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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.