The Black Jackalope of Inlé!
This guy started out as a resin piece of faux taxidermy wall art sold at Tractor Supply back around Christmas. Really cool sculpt but it was begging to be Watership Down-ified! I gave him a new paint job and added some bone armor/ornamentation which consists of a real rabbit skull and lots of real rabbit bones, all painted black and dry-brushed with metallic gold. All of the largest bones are secured with metal posts drilled into the resin in addition to adhesive to give them extra stability.
This fellow is currently available in my Etsy shop!
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Enhancing Doll Brows
This is my guide to either enhancing or completely redoing an AG doll’s eyebrows. Several people have asked about this, and I hope it will be useful.
You will need: a doll, watercolor pencils in black, brown and white, cotton swabs (preferably the pointy makeup ones), a small amount of water, and setting spray. If you are removing the original brows, you’ll also need nail polish remover and a paper towel to wipe the color off.
I use Mr. Super Clear from Amazon, specifically the matte UV Cut version, so it doesn’t dry shiny and protects the doll’s vinyl and paint from fading in sunlight. The watercolor pencils were from a cheap set I got at the craft store. Almost any brand will do, but make sure your pencils are sharp! (I had to sharpen my white and black after I took this photo.)
Next, you will need to prep your doll for her treatment. You can easily overspray and get the setting spray in the doll’s eyes and hair, and it makes the eyes cloudy and the hair dry and crunchy. To prevent this, I used a couple of long scraps to tie back and cover my subjects’ hair, and half a cotton ball taped down to protect their eyes. You want to make sure there is plenty of space to work around their brows, so you might notice that you can see the top of Lydia’s (known as Subject A for this post) eyelids. This is fine as long as the eyelashes are covered.
Once ready, go outside and spray their faces with the setting spray, concentrating on the forehead. Be careful not to totally soak the face. All you want is a light dusting. Once it dries, you can always spray another layer if you don’t think the first one is sufficient. This preliminary spray makes a better surface for your pencils to grip. If you skip it, you may not be able to get any pigment on your doll’s face. Let dry for 20-30 minutes between layers.
Next, you will want to start filling in the brows with short, light strokes, from root to tip, in the direction of hair growth. You will likely want to practice with a pencil on paper first, if you haven’t done this before.
This is after a handful of strokes on each brow. I usually begin with black, but I did Subject A’s left brow in brown first for illustration purposes. It doesn’t really matter which you start with. For me, brown is primarily a filler, unless I’m working on a doll I want to have paler brows.
This is after some more lines in both black and brown, with a few (4-5) strokes of white to provide depth.
If you make a mistake, use the water and a cotton swab/Q-tip to remove the errant mark and continue. You may have to remove everything you have done and start over. That’s okay. In this case, I didn’t like the white line at the bottom of her left eyebrow, so I wiped it off and re-drew the black and brown lines that were removed.
Keep working until you are satisfied with the result, then set with another layer of setting spray. Your doll will look amazing!
It helps if you don’t immediately go to set the paint after you finish. Give it a few minutes, then go back and look to make sure it’s the look you want. I did this several times with mine, and I kept adding a few lines here and there until I was happy. If you spray it and then decide you don’t like it, you will have to use nail polish remover and it will wipe out the original paint along with your watercolor work.
New brows: These are much more difficult than simply filling in because you have no good indication of their shape and position.
Once you have removed the original ones with nail polish remover and done the preliminary spray, you can start sketching a guiding line.
This image shows a couple of layers of short strokes, following the brow ridge.
This was so, so hard for me in the beginning, one eyebrow would be perfect and the other would...not. At all. If you aren’t sure of your skills, you may want to get a practice head from eBay or somewhere to practice on until you feel ready to work on a “real” doll.
More lines, going over the original work. As you can see, they aren’t quite the same, so I kept going, setting Subject B aside for awhile several times. I used black, then brown, and then a few white strokes.
Set the paint afterwards with the setting spray.
Et voila! I’m not 100% happy with that right eyebrow, but I can go back and redo it some other time.
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