#dansou cosplay

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log - Master Post

Making Lan Wangji

(AKA My Lan Zhan Cosplay Log)

This went from a historical project to cosplaying all the Hanguang-Jun, Lan Wangji in existence!  The main concept is Lan Wangji’s (LWJ) novel/manhua/audio drama design.  As the project started pre-pandemic, I didn’t consider the butler or dragon au in the design.  That would be too much.  There is a dash of videogame in him since there were some details I liked in that model.  If the title is “Mo Dao Zu Shi” then I have incorporated Lan Wangji’s description and concept arts into my design.  

Lan Wangji as known in The Untamed was generally avoided save for a tiny nod to the show’s Gusu Lan Clan.  “Mo Dao Zu Shi” Wangji and “Untamed” Wangji are distinct in my opinion.  Neither is superior from the other, just different enough that I need to pick one interpretation to play with.  The actors of Untamed, especially Xiao Zhan, really claimed the characters as their own and portrayed them wonderfully.  Wang Yibo’s Wangji is his Wangji, I won’t interfere that.  If you want to see that interpretation of Lan Wangji, then go watch the show.  It already exists.

A few caveats before you dive in:

1)     I am not a seamstress or tailor so I don’t know all the proper sewing terminology in English or any other language 2)     Also, modern romanization of Chinese confuses the shit out of me, a native speaker, so apologies for any spelling mistakes.  The Yale Romanization made so much more sense but then China thought they understood the English alphabet better than native English speakers so here we are.  Do as the Romans do, I guess. 3)     I am not a historical costumer either so all my info come from conjecture and research 4)     I am not a Chinese historian but I like to think I know enough about my history and culture through osmosis and the hell-hole disguised as Chinese school to talk about it 5)     I am not trying to make an authentic historical costume, I’m trying to make an anachronistic fantasy costume. Historicity went out the window the minute LWJ and every adult character decided to have their hair down.  I did try to make a semi-historically accurate version?  Depended on the mood at time of construction. 6)     I suck at being Chinese apparently so that will be my safety net if everything fails horribly :P  

The Lan Zhan Cosplay Log Layer 1:  Undergarments! 中衣 Layer 2A:  Yichang 衣裳   Layer 2B:  Ruqun 襦裙 Layer 3:  Zhiju 直裾 Layer 4A:  Leatherwork Layer 4B:  Jade Bling Layer 5A:  Dachang 大氅 Layer 5B:  Bijia 比甲 Layer 0:  Hair, Props, “Cheating,” & Overall Stats

Exhibit:  LWJ cosplay in action [1][2]

Citation

Patterning:  https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qb411j7z6?spm_id_from=333.905.b_72656c61746564.1

http://www.yeoh.com/index2.php?section=journal&g=691

https://cosplayqna.tumblr.com/image/38971971992

https://torguqin.wordpress.com/hanfu/hanfu-tutorial-list/

Hanfu Resources:

@ziseviolet:  https://ziseviolet.tumblr.com/about

@fouryearsofshades:  https://fouryearsofshades.tumblr.com/post/179249195707/hello-do-you-happen-to-have-a-master-post-of-all

[blackamite]

now that you're in another country have you ever thought of interviewing danso and gnc womyn out there? not through video to protect your privacy but text i think it would be interesting especially if you managed to talk with some past their 30 cause elder gnc women are very invisibilized worldwide and their lives rarely preserved for the youngins to look up to and worsens the pressure for little boyish girls to grow out of it or disidentify

Ngl, a lot of women here dress very feminine compared to America (it partly has to do with dress being less casual, but also stronger gender roles). I think it would be pretty hard to find someone here to interview who doesn't just do dansou as cosplay, much less to actually have an intelligble conversation with them. In addition to being awkward socially, my japanese is not as good as I'd like it to be u_u

Thanks for the idea though, I def think it would be cool if someone did so! Imo it would be great to do in America or wherever as well, regardless of where you are.

[negativism]

I hope everyone had a great time at ABUNAI! everyone who came to visit our butlercafe @caferoyalroulette , thank you SO much 💛💛💛 see you again next year! . . . . #butlercafe #butler #royalroulette #animecon #abunai # animeconvention #dansou #男装 #cafe #cosplay (bij Abunaicon)

[sychrade]

[k59407]

千歳   千歲   男裝   dansou   加州清光   Kashuu Kiyomitsu   刀剣   亂舞刀劍亂舞   cosplay  

[kuracosplay]

Just an istant 😎❤ lolololol

[00304]

hi zeal ! what cosplay websites to you recommend buying wigs from, more specifically- good wigs for dansou ?? Thank you !

i usually order from taobao, amazon, or ebay.. dansou wigs are just regular wigs.. just need to work on how to style them~

[barbaryancos]

International Hugging Day! Give your enemies a hug! ;) #HuggingDay #進撃の巨人 #AttackonTitan #AoT #ShingekiNoKyoshin #SnK #Jean #JeanxEren #JeanKirstein #jeankirschtein #ジャン #キルシュタイン #ジャンキルシュタイン #horseface #anime #cosplay #コスプレ #Costest #tryout #cosplayer #Cosplaymakeup #Selfie #androgynous #dansou #AttackOnTitanCosplay #ShingekinoKyojinCosplay #AoTCosplay #SnKCosplay #JeanKirsteinCosplay #JeanCosplay

[royalty-disorder]

I wish I had more time to wear this and put the look together, but I still loved how everything came together all things considered. #throwback #acen2017 #animecentral2017 #day3 #koichistyle #koichicosplay #koichimejibray #koichi #qutiefrash #vkei #pinkhair #pinkandblack #girlswithpiercings #dansou #cosplay

[macoto17]

Am I ikemen material yet? *got slapped* 

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 4A:  Leatherwork

This part of the cosplay was new territory for me as I usually do not make form-fitting costumes.  At least, not hugging my natural shape.  Not to mention it had been a while since I had to work with stretch fabric.  I used Kamui Cosplay’s draping technique to draft the gauntlet and boot cover patterns and it worked the first time!  Once I had a functional pattern, it was easy work adding zippers and ringlets to keep it all together.  This was when I was starting to realize getting dressed would rapidly become a 2-person job. ^_^;

Note authentic Huwan (护腕) or Chinese bracers tend to be on the short side and cut off at the wrist.  LWJ is not wearing that.  He’s wearing anachronistic fantasy bracers because stretch fabric apparently exists in this universe so he can wrap up his hands without hindering his strumming.  So that was what I made.  (Though it would be a simple matter to make historically accurate huwan…will think on it)

I extended the suede strings so they can wrap around the wrists like Bangshoudai (绑手带), which only serve to keep sleeves in place and tend to be seen on archers.  While not pictured, LWJ wrapping his wrist like an archer makes sense.  He needs to play so doesn’t hurt to keep everything around the forearms secure.  I also made a thicker ribbon with leftover fabric (basically bias tape) that can be used to lace the huwan or simply as bangshoudai, in case I need a more authentic look.

The belts were a more straightforward matter.  Just measure, pattern, sew.  Or in the case of the narrow belt – measure, mark holes, hole punch, dye, and then install snaps.  Speaking of dyeing, the Koolaid formula I used was:  2 packs light blue + 1 pack dark blue + 1 pack purple

Leather Dyeing Tutorial:

1) Mix Koolaid flavor packs in 2 cups hot water 2) Submerge leather/suede for 20min, be sure to flip sides for even dyeing 3) Rinse off excess color from leather 4) Dry for at least 2hrs 5) Ready to use!

Koolaid dye works great!  The colors are vibrant, it lasts on unprocessed leathery material well, and it eternally smells like artificial fruit.  Also it’s (allegedly) safe and crazy cheap.  Do not add sugar, that is gross.  While 20min is sufficient time for the color to stay but I dyed the leather for 1hr/side for a slightly darker shade.

As usual, there’s a video tutorial to sum everything up.  Note that I sometimes switch to another workshop to do certain tasks since that one has a workbench that can take hammering and a ventilated space for spray painting.  But it has no tripod so I can’t film while I work.  Hence the filmography being all over the place and frequent location changes.  Wait, can I include my driving hours in my maker time?  :P

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 0:  Hair, Props, and Cheating!

False Lapels (假领)

I caved and made cheater lapels, a purely modern invention so you don’t die in your layers.  In winter, I will wear my full undergarments.  In summer, I will tie this fake lapel around my neck to ventilate and streamline the dressing process.  Everyone be wearing cheater lapels now!  Who cares about authenticity when you look good and aren’t overheating.

Magic Weapons (法器)

As mentioned before, LWJ originally was a casual cosplay.  Meaning I was just going to buy him and dress up but being the nitpicker I am, I was not 100% happy with the choices on Taobao (at the time).  Hence, I made LWJ from scratch (what was I thinking, mistakes were made…).  But I did buy Bichen to keep myself to task.  Nothing makes you finish a cosplay like having a piece of it haunting you.

Made a foam guqin but was feeling burnout by then so didn’t put as much effort in recording the process.  I mean, it’s printing scaled patterns, cutting them out, and then tracing the foam.  Then it’s all glued together.  Lots of glue keeping everything together.  A lot like how I made Levi’s ODMG way back, so I’ll link that tutorial for anyone interested.  Also, anyone can make a bag so nothing to say there.  Tassels were dyed using the Koolaid method I used for the leathers.

Yugiri’s ODMG Tutorial:  https://yugiri315.tumblr.com/post/647365286642712576/one-of-my-first-tutorials-i-made-odmg-so-i-could

Wig

Everyone in ancient China had long hair so gotta work it!  Historically, adults put all their hair up in public.  Any deviation from that would indicate anywhere from poor manners to foreign origin and was generally frowned upon.  A man having his hair down and disheveled could even be judged a criminal on the run.  Lan Wangji’s hairstyle would therefore be considered improper for a gentleman of his age and station.  Sticking a guan on your half-topknot or slapping a ribbon on isn’t some quick fix that will make you instantly socially acceptable.  You just look like a rich maybe-barbaric asshole.

More Info on men’s hair here.

Then film was invented and eventually wuxia dramas, a genre that often explored and tested cultural conventions and featured characters from the fringes of society like orphans, outlaws, and women prominently.  Between the nature of wuxia and modern sensibilities, somehow the anachronistic half up-do was invented and accepted as “historical.”  This happens in Bollywood and Hollywood too, where some anachronistic elements cement themselves as historical fact in the popular zeitgeist.  So now hip, young gentlemen from fantasy China have this nice half-do or ponytail.  Having a guan or just a hairpin or ribbon indicated which side of middle-class you’re on and only old, stuffy characters put all their hair up (sometimes).

BUT, I would like to propose a caveat.  Wangji is a cultivator.  In fiction that means he’s a martial arts wizard knight but they are modelled after actual sages and alchemists trying to achieve immortality in the mountains and mystical Taoist priests that Chinese writers simply embellished.  In older fictions, you will see cultivators are more historically grounded and their powers are relegated to the improbable but humanly possible spectrum compared to their modern renditions, where one can be born with golden cores or immortality can be achieved easily depending on the writer.  In some cases, actual famed Taoist priests make an appearance with OPed supernatural powers like Qiu Chuji in Jin Yong’s Legend of Condor Heroes.  A note about historical Taoist priests and sages is as they have exited mundane society to be more in tune with the natural world or are considered eccentrics, they are often portrayed with their hair down similar to the style of CQL Wangji or with some more disheveled and flexible hairdos.  So it’s possible the cultivator hair style popularized in modern media today is based after some historical reality but poor historical research, lack of accurate sources, and just preference has misplaced it and now it’s part of pop culture and could not be more natural!

That explains the back of LWJ’s head but as for the front and still sporting forelocks into middle age…as my Chinese friends put it, LWJ is a 坏哥哥 that makes WWX all hot and bothered XDXDXD.

So yeah, how should LWJ style his hair is a surprisingly complicated question.  Do you go by profession, socioeconomic standing, sexual appeal, fantasy worldbuilding creativity license, his inner bad boy rebellious side?  The anime may have truly captured everything about his character on the top of his head!

Our Hanguang-jun here may be a prim and proper killjoy but he is fashionable and sexy.  Thus his beautiful, silky locks must be free!! (and what a pain it is to maintain and store him XD)

For synthetic wig fibers, I wetted it with a homemade detangling spray and heat when styling.  Usually, I finish wig styling with a hardcore, glue-like spray like Got2B, especially with a complicated hairdo like this.  But I’m contemplating this as a generic cosplay or hanfu wig so want to leave myself an opening to restyle it if I’m feeling ambitious.  We will see.　

DIY Wig Detangling Spray:   It’s basically 1:4 to 1:6 dilution of lotion/fabric softener/conditioner in water

https://www.deviantart.com/stealthos-aurion/art/Tut-HOMEMADE-WIG-DETANGLER-252023136 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StFHQ0mPdY0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcyqp2iqk0g&t=175s

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 5A:  Dachang大氅

A self-respecting gentleman ought to have an overcoat.  Historically, this is more winter wear and made of heavy fabrics but we’re trying to achieve the fancy and flowy cultivator look so I opted for light, sheer fabric.  Also, I put in too much work on the bottom layers to cover all that up.  The actual construction of the coat is self-explanatory so I won’t elaborate here.  The real prize here is the shoulder embroidery.  I hate hand embroidery and I spent a cumulative grueling 120 hours hand-stitching Suzhou embroidery.

Suzhou Embroidery in a nutshell:  

Suzhou embroidery is one of the highest forms of embroidery that is meant to mimic detailed paintings using thread.  It is known for its vibrancy and masterfully blended colors through the use of multiple shades of mulberry dyed silk in one detail.  Suzhou itself is actually pretty close to Gusu, where LWJ is from, and I can see him shopping there.  (more like commissioning)  So try as I might to avoid the ordeal, I sat down and watched the great masters and embroidered 2 damn massive clouds onto my dachang.  In total 5 colors were used to shade the clouds for dimension.  Yes I used the aforementioned silk thread.  And as both clouds were embroidered by hand, they don’t look exactly the same but I would like to implement boobie logic so therefore sisters but not twins.  There’s nothing informative in my embroidery video.  Only proof that I suffered.

The Gusu clouds were not mirrored on opposite shoulders because they are the family emblem and not just decoration.  LWJ is a filial son, he would never treat the house emblem so frivolously.  There are less expensive and time consuming ways to give uncle a stroke.

Here are some shots of the complete dachang being worn, courtesy of Dr. Tog.

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 3: Zhiju 直裾

The final piece of the Chinese 3-piece suit.  It is the basic wrap-around robe you see when you look up generic hanfu.  I added forward slits because…the official art said so.  Gotta show some leg (and the ruqun I painstakingly pleated!)~ The piece is secured with frog clasps and the lapels I made from scratch, it’s like making giant bias tape.

But what is truly noteworthy about my zhiju is the inside because of course I dedicate too much effort on the inside.  There are 3 pockets each large enough to hold a smart phone.  In traditional hanfu your sleeves and lapel are your pockets but I installed hidden pockets for extra security and to pretend I have pocket dimension sleeves like they do in cultivation novels.  The zhiju is also lined with beautiful blue and copper shenyun silk!  If you are lucky, I may flash you with some “雲雨” (clouds & rain is an euphemism, look it up) XD

Not to mention the zhiju is actually quite versatile.  I can wear it casually as a sort of dachang if I really want to.

Below is how the zhiju look, worn as intended.

Assistant Photographer/Videographer:  Dr. Tog

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Finale!

Overall Stats!!

Given my cosplay history, I am no stranger to monochrome.  My characters seem to wear either all black or all white.  To make an outfit like that work you need to layer and think more on your fabric choice.  So different shades of white or blue and different textures were used to make LWJ something interesting to look at other than being a cloud or steamed bun.

Also, most of the bias tape, ribbons, and lapels were made from scratch.  They’re all basically bias tape of varying sizes and functions.

This whole project went from, I’ll just buy the cosplay off Taobao and find someone to do gay shoots with to an intense project that took 2 years to make and, calculating for minimum wage…has a net worth of under $7000!  Holy shit what a scary number, I don’t want to look at it again.  QAQ Even not counting labor, the material cost is as low as it can get but still...whoa ^^;

All that time and money and I have no remotely descent pics to show for it.  These cos-test shots by Dr. Tog will have to do.  Some day, I will have a proper LWJ shoot.  I hope!

References

Patterning:   https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qb411j7z6?spm_id_from=333.905.b_72656c61746564.1 http://www.yeoh.com/index2.php?section=journal&g=691 https://cosplayqna.tumblr.com/image/38971971992 https://torguqin.wordpress.com/hanfu/hanfu-tutorial-list/

Hanfu Resources: @ziseviolet​:  https://ziseviolet.tumblr.com/about @fouryearsofshades​:  https://fouryearsofshades.tumblr.com/post/179249195707/hello-do-you-happen-to-have-a-master-post-of-all

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 5B:  Bijia比甲

I came across this beautiful white obi fabric that had a mountain and cloud motif, which just screams Gusu Lan.  The clan lives up in the mountains and call their home 云深不知处 (Cloud Recesses).  Just compare the motif to official art, they look exactly the same!!  I simply had to use this obi…so I cut it up and turned it into the lapels of my wuxia fantasy bijia that looks like some Japanese/Chinese fusion vest popular in dramas.

PC:  Dr. Tog

Nothing more to say about this piece without repeating myself except I wanted summer wear and something “casual” for uptight LWJ (to pair with my dachang, which is kinda winter or formal wear).  However, even if I switched the dachang for this lovely piece it is still a heavy costume so to lighten the load…