Another wonderful and adorable men's haircurling scene circa 1840 by Paul Gavarni, this one in high quality! (Paris Musées). Dated 1839-1841, in the "Students of Paris" series, the dialog goes something like:
How many papillotes are you going to give me, Nini? I'll have read the entire civil code!
Yes but, sweetie, you're going to look so nice!
He has papillotes on his lap, there are curling tongs and more papillotes on the floor. His hair is chin-length, showing how long men's hair is at this time, he's in his shirtsleeves—it's so intimate and cute.
eta: thanks to @daffenger and @sainteverge, who suggested a better translation of the dialog that makes it even more amusing: he's actually saying that they're about to run out of the civil code, which is being used to make his curl papers!
[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Five Dynasties And Ten Kingdoms Period Traditional Clothing Hanfu Based On Paining <簪花仕女图/Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers>
The age of creation of <簪花仕女图/Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers> has been disputed among historical research scholars.
However, according to recent research and the excavation of more cultural relics from the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, it has gradually been proved that this painting is more in line with the hairstyle and the clothes worn by court women during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period.
In particular, the towering hairstyle is very consistent with the description of noble women during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. Similar female figurines were also unearthed from Tomb of the Empress of Min Kingdom (闽国) Liu Hua (Wang Yanjun’s wife) during the same period：
Since she is one of my favorite manga artist (because she is fantastic artist, loves historical/traditional costume and women) I bought Kaoru Mori’s two published sketch books. There are so many gems in there. Allow me to share this one:
The title seems to be something like “hairstyle of a western and a eastern lady” (then there is a comment about how in both culture tying your hair up as a adult was a thing)
Gosh they are so cute! I love how she had them interacting!
A small trip down one minimal character design choice...
#and josie's headpiece too! in this piece
I AM SO GLAD SOMEONE ASKED ABOUT IT. :D
(so I can fangirl for a while over little trips of research I did)
Josie's headpiece is actually inspired by a regional Italian style from Lombardy (the region where Milan is, North, just above the peninsula)! Antiva is clearly Venice (motion: allow me to gift some spritz to Zevran in Origin), and back in the day Venice and Milan were biting at each other's neck... But the Inquisition symbol, so spiky, reminded me a lot of this hairstyle, very popular in XVII century Lombardy and featured in one of our most famous novels ever, Alessandro Manzoni's the Bethroted:
This hairstyle is very typical of the areas north of Milan, comprehending the surroundings of Como, Lecco, Varese and the Brianza (the area between Milan and the lakes). It was worn in special occasions and festive days by young girls who were of suitable age for marriage, but still unmarried.
It consists of long braids collected on the back of the head in a chignon, pinned in place with a long metal rod on the base -called a "sponton"- and decorated on both hands, and a set of long pins called "spadinn" ("little swords") placed to form a fan/crown/halo shape.
The material of the pins varied according to the possibilities of the family: froom the cheapest wood, to copper and brass, going up to silver and even gold. The outer extremity of the pins also were more or less decorated, the richest could have pearls and filigree, the poorest had just a wider concave shape similar to a spoon (and indeed they were also called "cugiaritt", little spoons).
The number varies from town to town and family to family, there's a range going from 24 to 47 (!) in Lecco, or 30 to 40 in Varese, and the tradition went that parents gifted one pin to their daughter from their First Communion (Catholicism yay, it usually happens when you're 10/11), and one for each birthday until they married.
A postcard featuring a girl from Lombardy in traditional dress.
This tho is Empress Charlotte of Mexico, an Habsburg princess, with a traditional Lombardy hairstyle! (most of the north of Italy, except for Piedmont and Turin, was under Austrian rule by then and until 1861)
This is not typical of Venice, and really Milan/Lombardy and Venezia/Veneto are two separate entities, still I thought that it could be a good way to fit a variation of this, shaping it more like an Inquisition eye... And that's my research pit of today.
All the sources I found are in Italian, unfortunately, but I found this website that explains it in english, with a lot of photos!
So I'm working on the Livia nodus hairstyle, because I find it delightfully ridiculous, but also achievable with my hair. There are a few variations on the theme, but it's always bun in the back, silly bump in the front, some kind of curl or twist on the sides, and a braid or section of hair running down the center/part:
And there are slso some portraits that aren't Livia that also have similar styles.
I did it again last weekend, for the first time with a rat under the poof, and I'm mostly happy with how it turned out. These photos are after being outside at the event all day so it's a bit frazzled...
I did cheat a bit and use a modern hair tie to secure the twisted sides into a ponytail in the back because my hair is just too slick to hold onto both halves halves and stitch securely without being able to see it, but the braid is sewn down my part and the bun is sewn in place.
The front section I just style fully wet and use a bunch of hair oil to keep in place.
Women before hairdressers was a thing must have been so chaotic. Mary would just see Prudence at church with a curled fringe, go home and do the same to her hair with their mother’s scissors and hope for the same results.
I swear to God if a modern actress in a 1940s set show or movie was somehow sent back into to the actual 1940s hairdressers would be chasing her down the street offering to fix her limp af looking "curls" because she looks like she got rained on and then her hair dried naturally
More than any other decade of the 19th century, I think the 1830s saw the greatest transition in men's hairstyles.
The early 1830s look is very much like that of the 1820s: cropped relatively short, with volume on top and trimmed sides and back. The curls and styling can get quite complicated; sometimes echoing the fauxhawk looks and elaborate combing of the Regency period.
Fashion plate detail, 1832 (V&A)
Fashion plate detail, 1834 (Rijksmuseum)
Detail from “Causerie” by Paul Gavarni, c. 1834 (Boston Public Library)
But by the decade's end, men's hair is surprisingly long: the mid-century la jeune france look reaching the chin or even kept shoulder-length.
Long-haired Parisian students by Paul Gavarni, 1839 (Paris Musées)
c. 1839 caricature print: a flamboyant dandy has words with a less fashionable man calling him a "thing" (British Museum).
Chinese Southern Dynasties Portrait Brick Unearthed in Xiangyang
Chinese Southern Dynasties Relics ：<捧奁侍女画像砖/ Maid holding a casket portrait brick>,Changzhou Museum Collection
Chinese Southern Dynasties Relics ：<托博山炉侍女画像砖/ Maid holding a Hill censer portrait brick>,Changzhou Museum Collection
[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Southern Dynasties(齐・梁) Traditional Clothing Hanfu,Hairstyle & Makeup
On the basis of the Han and Jin Dynasties Ru skirts (襦裙) , women's clothing in the Southern and Northern Dynasties developed a romantic and light artistic style. On the whole, the neckline is getting wider, the waist and the lower part of sleeve are narrowed, and the styles are changeable.
This set of attirt is restored from the portrait brick figures of the Southern Dynasties in Xiangyang. The waist of the skirt is raised to the chest, it is matched with an open collar and wide sleeves, the head is combed in a butterfly-shaped bun, and it wears a fan-shaped golden hairpin. The whole set of costumes elongates the visual proportion of the human body, looks delicate and slender, and has a graceful posture. When walking, the double robes sway with the Luo skirt, which shows the pursuit of the literati of the Southern Dynasty for the posture of elegant, so there is a " 双袂齐举鸾凤翔 ". " 罗裳皎日袂随风 " the literary description of.
In the later period of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, this open-collar and wide-sleeved design became more and more popular, and it was popular in the north and south.
Even in the colder north, this fashion was still pursued, and it was still very popular until the Sui and Tang dynasties.
On a recent rewatch of Merlin, I noticed the unusual hairstyle on this maid character in the episode “The Dragon’s Call” (Season 1, Episode 1). It reminds me of these two portraits by Sandro Botticelli, Idealised Portrait of a Lady (Portrait of Simonetta Vespucci as Nymph) and
Profile portrait of a young woman, probably Simonetta. It’s an unusual choice for a lower class character, since these portraits are more a representation of nobility.