#mourning dress

[digitalfashionmuseum]

Black silk dress, ca. 1861, English.

Worn by Emilia Tedeschi.

Uffizi Gallery.

[in-herbones]

Another of my newest creations. Boiled wool blend, all hand beaded, distressed silk taffeta neck pleat🖤

[gentlyepigrams]

Today's ootd is this 1823-25 Scottish silk velvet mourning dress. Jane Johnstone wore it for the death of her grandmother Elizabeth. The V&A notes how velvet was too shiny for the first stages of mourning but were acceptable for the third and fourth stages. 

[history-of-fashion]

1908-1912 Maternity silk mourning dress

(Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery)

[threadtalk]

Unusual color combinations are one of my favorite things to stumble upon, and the 1890s are fabulous for finding them. Deep olive green velvet, black and yellow satin, and floral sprays combine with leg of mutton sleeves and ruffles, ruffles, ruffles!

This dress dates from 1895 and is French, but was imported to the US.

By the time the 1890s hit, we lose the density of the bustle era and opt instead for massive flounces and the rebirth of voluminous sleeves. This dress isn't listed as a mourning gown, but it's got a lot of the elements one looks for in that sort of fashion, including jet beads which were generally reserved for mourning wear.

This gown would definitely be at home in Crimson Peak!

From the Maryland Center for History and Culture.

[secretceremonies]

Woman in mourning dress, 1870s

[slightlymediocree]

Documenting one of my projects here!

Im taking an anthropology class called Magic, Witchcraft, and Religion, and our final proj is to present any topic relating to the class in any medium. My topic is Victorian/Edwardian mourning rituals and customs. I chose to recreate an Edwardian (c. 1905-ish) half mourning dress!!

So far, ive went through several rounds of designing and 0 mockups bc i dont have time for that. Im recreating everything using only methods that would have been available at the time. I currently own 2 antique sewing machines from 1911: one hand crank and one treadle. A lot of this project will likely be done by hand because i just enjoy it :)

I'm using a cotton lawn, which, according to Victorian mourning guides, would not have likely been used because the dyed might bleed onto the skin, but I live in a very hot area and will *absolutely not* be wearing wool or silk in 95F weather. The sash is (regrettably) poly taffeta because i dont have the money for silk. Im using snaps and a few vintage buttons for the closures.

Above are pics of some sketches, a blouse fitting, and the belt/sash ive draped. Ive seen similar sashes on lingerie/summer dresses and thought it might be fitting. Taffetta probably wouldve been used towards the end of half mourning according to etiquette books, but ive found extant examples that suggest otherwise. I also found that etiquette rules were a bit more relaxed in Edwardian times compared to Victorian.

I have the skirt and blouse placketts cut out and i need to attatch them. I might add some lace to the cuffs but idk yet. I kinda like the simple short cuffs but a lot of 1905-6 dresses ive seen have large ruffles at the sleeve. I dont really want to make ruffles but they do look cool. I also have a chemise, bustle pad, corset, and petticoat done but i felt weird posting a picture in (Edwardian) underwear, even if it covers much more than our modern underwear.

I will be updating this page and plan to present this project in video format on youtube, ill post a link here once I finish!

Date: 4/19/2024

[mysterious-secret-garden]

Anders Zorn - The Widow, ca. 1882-83.

Versions >> 1 | 2 | 3

[tromroan]

Headed to their own funeral 🍓💀

(Eig belongs to @kettlebird-casual >:))

[thereisomethingaboutlilac]

𝐛𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐦𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐝𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬

[digitalfashionmuseum]

Black Mourning Ensemble, 1870-1872, American.

Met Museum.

[in-herbones]

Details of my latest cape. Cotton velvet, gorgeous corded lace and all hand beaded details with antique beading on the shoulders.

Inspired by the capes worn in the second phase of mourning during the Victorian period🖤

[jeweled-blue-eyes]

Half mourning ensemble, 1897-99. FIDM Museum.

Mourning in the Victorian era had three stages. Half mourning was the third and most relaxed one, when dresses and garments could include some colors (like white and purple) besides black.

[history-of-fashion]

1872-1874 Mourning dress by unknown American maker

silk, cotton

(Metropolitan Museum of Art)

[bunad]

Mourning Dress in Hålandsdal

the church in the background was built in 1726, but contains parts that may date as far back as 1306.

[gentlyepigrams]

Worn on this day [Mar 1] in 1899 by Countess di Carrobio, the wife of an Italian diplomat, for her presentation at Buckingham Palace: a black satin Paquin gown embroidered with jet and diamonds, trimmed with black tulle and Chantilly lace. The court was in mourning for Prince Alfred.