#pingat

[threadtalk]

When you think about wearing a dress to dinner, it probably isn't this extravagant. But for Victorians, dinner gowns were totally a thing. In fact, it wasn't uncommon for ladies of status to change three or four times a day!

This gown is by Emile Pingat, a French designer and contemporary (and competitor) of Charles Frederick Worth. He began his fashion house in the mid-1860s, and went on to dress some of the wealthiest, most sophisticated people in Europe and the Americas.

To me, Pingat is immediately recognizable with his divine details, architectural tailoring, and relatively earthy color palette--lots of black, gold, tan, and neutrals.

This 1885 dinner gown is no exception. It's silk velvet and machine made lace, but all about the details. The lace overlay mimics brocades and damasks, but the extra sheerness makes it extra glimmery. Plus we've also got a train--always a plus. We know it was worn by socialite Mrs. Charles G. Roebling. The gown also has another bodice, as many dresses did during this period.

From the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

[mimicofmodes]

You may remember me putting out a graded version of this same pattern months ago. However, I actually pulled it when someone bought it and told me that the grading was so messed up that it shouldn't be offered for sale, and then I never got around to fixing it because I don't know what I'm doing in the grading arena and I doubt I ever will, without the time and energy to do extensive mockups myself.

I've decided that it makes the most sense for me to simply make gridded patterns à la Janet Arnold and sell them for significantly less than graded ones, since they represent less time on my part and more difficulty on the users', if they want to turn them into actual clothing. They can also be used for research purposes much more readily than the graded patterns.

So you can certainly look out for more of these in the future!

[mote-historie]

1878 Dinner dress, Silk brocade lace silk satin by Emile Pingat.

Dinner dress, 1878 (back oblique partial view). Silk brocade, lace, silk satin by Emile Pingat. 

Photo by Chicago History Museum.

[silkdamask-blog]

[ytttrophymalaysia]

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[gentlyepigrams]

The blending of shades between yellow & black in ombré stripes gives the impression that this early 1890s tea gown is glowing, fired by some unseen force to blaze across the skirt. It is a tea gown that cries out for an audience. Emile Pingat. National Gallery of Australia.

[shewhoworshipscarlin]

Ballgown by Emile Pingat, 1860.

[costumeloverz71]

Dress 1892, Emile Pingat

[digitalfashionmuseum]

Pink silk ball gown, ca. 1867, French.

By Emile Pingat.

Albany Institute of History & Art.

[marzipanandminutiae]

Do you think Edith's costuming in The Butterfly Scene is an intentional mirroring to how the butterflies themselves look? The dark edges against a light center on the wings compared to the dark circles and ribbons on her shirt and hat. (Something I just noticed in the gif you used in that opinions post)

Oh 100%. Everything in that outfit is meant to scream "monarch butterfly," down to the ribbons on her hat:

BTS photo with a full view of the outfit. Would have been a cool extra (realistic) touch to have black hem braid on the skirt, IMO, but one cannot have everything.

And lest you think this is a historically implausible level of artistic detail, I present to you a formal cape by Maison Pingat c. 1890s:

[fashionsfromhistory]

Evening Jacket

Emile Pingat

c.1893

The MET (Accession Number: 2009.300.139)

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Woman's Dress (Bodice and Skirt).

Designer/Maker: Emile Pingat (France, Paris, ca. 1820 - 1901)

Place of origin: France, Paris

Date: 1897

Bodice: silk velvet and silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique and glass beads; Skirt: silk velvet and silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats.

[walzerjahrhundert]

Maison Pingat / Emile Pingat

Evening jacket

French

circa 1893                            

[omgthatdress]

Mantle

Emile Pingat, 1891

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Turquoise means magic and art.

Central Florida Emergency Trans Care Fund

Equality Florida

ACLU Florida

Tampa Bay Abortion Fund

[gogmstuff]

Later 1880s dress (from top to bottom) -

Amy Augusta, Lady Coleridge (née Lawford) by Frederic, Lord Leighton (location ?) From fripperiesandfobs.tumblr.com 1075X1149

ca. 1885 Robe à transformation en satin de soie lilas by Mme Courillon (Tessier-Sarou - 9Nov21 auction Lot 180). From their Web site1766X2652.

ca. 1885 Evening bodice of robe à transformation en satin de soie lilas by Mme Courillon (Tessier-Sarou - 9Nov21 auction Lot 180). From their Web site 1908X2808.

ca. 1885 Emile Pingat Dress with Dinner and Evening Bodices worn by Mrs. Charles Robeling (Philadelphia Museum of Art - Philadelphia, Pennsylvanis, USA). From their Web site 3066X4096.

1886 Mrs. Cecil Wade by John Singer Sargent (location ?). From tumblr.com/shewhoworshipscarlin 792X960.

1888 Louise Wagner by Hans Temple (Wien Museum Karlsplatz - Wien, Austria). From tumblr.com/history-of-fashion 1675X3072.

[ytttrophymalaysia]

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