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#western fashion history
dresshistorynerd · 1 year
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So I got this tag on my answer to an ask about when it became acceptable for western women to wear pants, and you know it's all I need to go on a tangent.
I think the short answer here would be men have worn skirts as long as people have worn anything, so pretty long tbh. But since I am incapable of answering anything shortly, I think we can re-frame this question:
When did skirts stop being socially acceptable for men?
So let's start with acknowledging that tunics, togas, kirtles and such men wore through history were, in fact, skirts. I think there's often a tendency to think of these as very different garments from those that women wore, but really they are not. Most of the time they were literally referred to with the same name. (I will do a very broad and simplified overview of men's clothing from ancient times to Early Middle Ages so we can get to the point which is Late Middle Ages.)
Ancient Greek men and women both wore chitons. Even it's length wasn't determined by gender, but by occupation. Athletes, soldiers and slaves wore knee-length chitons for easier movement. Roman men and women wore very similar garment, tunics. Especially in earlier ancient Rome long sleeves were associated with women, but later became more popular and unconventional for men too. Length though was still dependent on occupation and class, not gender. Toga was sure men's clothing, but worn over tunic. It was wrapped around the waist, like a dress would, and then hung over shoulder. Romans did wear leggings when they needed to. For example for leg protection when hunting as in this mosaic from 4th century. They would have been mostly used by men since men would be doing the kinds of activities that would require them. But that does not lessen the dressyness of the tunics worn here. If a woman today wears leggings under her skirt, the skirt doesn't suddenly become not a skirt.
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All over Europe thorough the early Middle Ages, the clothes were very similar in their basic shape and construction as in Rome and Greece. In Central and Northern Europe though people would wear pants under shorter tunics. There were exceptions to the everyone wearing a tunic trend. Celtic men wore braccae, which were pants, and short tunics and literally just shirts. Celts are the rare case, where I think we can say that men didn't wear dresses. Most other peoples in these colder areas wore at least knee-length tunics. Shorter tunics and trousers were worn again mostly by soldiers and slaves, so rarely any other woman than slave women. The trousers were though definitely trousers in Early Middle Ages. They were usually loose for easier construction and therefore not that similar to Roman leggings. However leggings style fitted pants were still used, especially by nobility. I'd say the loose trousers are a gray area. They wore both dresses and pants, but still definitely dresses. I'd say this style was very comparable to the 2000s miniskirts over jeans style. First one below is a reconstruction of Old Norse clothing by Danish history museum. The second is some celebrity from 2005. I see no difference.
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When we get to the high Middle Ages tunics are still used by both men and women, and still it's length is dependent on class and activity more than gender, but there's some new developments too. Pants and skirt combo is fully out and leggings' are back in in form of hose. Hose were not in fact pants and calling them leggings is also misleading. Really they are socks. Or at least that's how they started. As it has become a trend here they were used by everyone, not just men. During early Middle Ages they were worn often with the trousers, sometimes the trousers tucked inside them making them baggy. In high Middle Ages they became very long when used with shorter tunics, fully displacing the need for trousers. They would be tied to the waist to keep them up, as they were not knitted (knitting was being invented in Egypt around this time, and some knitting was introduced to Europe during middle Ages, but it really only took off much later during Renaissance Era) and therefore not stretchy. First picture is an example of that from 1440s. Another exciting development in the High Medieval era was bliaut in France and it's sphere of influence. Bliaut was an early attempt in Europe of a fitted dress. And again used by both men and women. The second illustration below from mid 12th century shows a noble man wearing a bliaut and nicely showing off his leg covered in fitted hose. Bliaut was usually likely fitted with lacing on the sides, but it wasn't tailored (tailoring wasn't really a thing just yet) and so created a wrinkled effect around the torso.
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In the 14th century things really picked up in European fashion. European kingdoms finally started to become richer and the rich started to have some extra money to put into clothing, so new trends started to pop up rapidly. Tailoring became a thing and clothes could be now cut to be very fitted, which gave birth to fitted kirtle. At the same time having extra money meant being able to spend extra money on more fabric and to create very voluminous clothing, which gave birth to the houppelande.
Kirtle was once again worn by everyone. It wasn't an undergarment, for women that would be shift and men shirt and breeches, but it was an underlayer. It could be worn in public but often had at least another layer on top of it. The bodice part, including sleeves were very fitted with lacing or buttons (though there were over-layer kirtles that had different sleeves that changed with fashions and would be usually worn over a fitted kirtle). Men's kirtles were short, earlier in 14th century knee-length but towards the end of the century even shorter styles became fashionable in some areas. First picture below shows a man with knee-length kirtle from 1450s Italy.
Houppelande was also unisex. It was a loose full-length overgown with a lot of fabric that was gathered on the neckline and could be worn belted or unbelted. The sleeves were also wide and became increasingly wider (for men and women) later in the century and into the next century. Shorter gowns similar in style and construction to the houppelande were also fashionable for men. Both of these styles are seen in the second picture below from late 14th century.
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In the very end of 14th century, first signs of pantification of men can be seen. In France and it's sphere of influence the skirt part of the kirtle became so short it barely covered the breeches as seen below on these fashionable musicians from 1395-1400 France. Long houppelandes, length ranging from floor to calf, were still used by men though (the second picture, 1414 France), as were knee and thigh length gowns of similar loose style.
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The hems continued to be short through the 15th century in France, but in other places like Italy and German sphere of influence, they were still fairly long, at least to mid thigh, through the first half of the century. In France at some point in late 13th century the very short under-kirtle started to be called doublet and they are just getting shorter in 1400s. The showing underwear problem was fixed by joined hose and the codpiece, signaling the entrance of The Sluttiest Era of men's fashion. Below is an example from 1450s Belgium of doublet and early codpiece in display. As you can see from the other figures, the overgowns of the previous century were also getting very, very short. In the next French example below from 1470s we can see the skirt shrink out of existence right before our eyes.
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The very skimpy doublet and it's accompanying codpiece spread to the rest of the Europe in the second half of 15th century and it would only get sluttier from there. The Italians were just showing their full ass (example from 1490s). The dress was not gone yet though. The doublet and codpiece continued to be fashionable, but the overdress got longer again in the French area too. For example in the second example there's Italian soldiers in a knee length dresses from 1513.
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But we have to talk about the Germans. They went absolutely mad with the whole doublet and codpiece. Just look at this 1513 painting below (first one). But they did not only do it sluttier than everyone else, they also changed the course of men's fashion.
Let's take a detour talking about the Landsknecht, the mercenary pikeman army of the Holy Roman Empire. (I'm not that knowledgeable in war history so take my war history explanation with a grain of salt.) Pikemen had recently become a formidable counter-unit against cavalry, which earlier in the Medieval Era had been the most important units. Knights were the professional highly trained cavalry, which the whole feudal system leaned against. On the other hand land units were usually not made of professional soldiers. Landsknecht were formed in late 15th century as a professional army of pikemen. They were skilled and highly organized, and quickly became a decisive force in European wars. Their military significance gave them a lot of power in the Holy Roman Empire, some were even given knighthood, which previously wasn't possible for land units, and interestingly for us they were exempt from sumptuary laws. Sumptuary laws controlled who could wear what. As the bourgeois became richer in Europe in late Middle Ages and Renaissance Era, laws were enacted to limit certain fabrics, colors and styles from those outside nobility, to uphold the hierarchy between rich bourgeois and the nobles. The Landsknecht, who were well payed mercenaries (they would mutiny, if they didn't get payed enough), went immediately absolute mad with the power to bypass sumptuary laws. Crimes against fashion (affectionate) were committed. What do you do, when you have extra money and one of your privileges is to wear every color and fabric? You wear every color and fabric. At the same time. You wear them on top of each other and so they can be seen at the same time, you slash the outer layer. In the second image you can feast your eyes on the Landsknecht.
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Just to give you a little more of that good stuff, here's a selection of some of my favorite Landsknecht illustrations. This is the peak male performance. Look at those codpieces. Look at those bare legs. The tiny shorts. And savor them.
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The Landsknecht were the hot shit. Their lavish and over the top influence quickly took over men's fashion in Germany in early 1500s. Slashing, the technique possibly started by them, but at least popularized by them, instantly spread all over Europe. That's how you get the typical Renaissance poof sleeves. They at first slashed the thighs of their hose, but it seems like to fit more of everything into their outfits, they started wearing the hose in two parts, upper hose and nether hose, which was a sort of return to the early Medieval trousers and knee-high hose style. The two part hose was adopted by the wider German men's fashion early in the century, but already in 1520s had spread to rest of Europe. It was first combined with the knee-length overdress that had made it's comeback in the turn of the century, like in this Italian painting from 1526 (first image). At this point knitting had become established and wide-spread craft in Europe and the stockings were born, replacing nether hose. They were basically nether hose, but from knitted fabric. The gown shortened again and turned into more of a jacket as the trunk hose became increasingly the centerpiece of the outfit, until in 1560s doublet - trunk hose combination emerged as the standard outerwear (as seen in the second example, 1569 Netherlands) putting the last nail on the coffin of the men's dress as well as the Sluttiest Era. The hose and doublet became profoundly un-slutty and un-horny, especially when the solemn Spanish influence spread all over with it's dark and muted colors.
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Especially in Middle Ages, but thorough European history, trousers have been associated with soldiers. The largely accepted theory is that trousers were invented for horse riding, but in climates with cold winters, where short skirts are too cold, and long skirts are still a hazard when moving around, trousers (with or without a short skirt) are convenient for all kinds of other movement requiring activities like war. So by adopting hose as general men's clothing, men in 1500s associated masculinity with militarism. It was not a coincidence that the style came from Landsknecht. I may have been joking about them being "peak male performance", but really they were the new masculine ideals for the new age. At the time capitalism was taking form and European great powers had begun the process of violently conquering the world for money, so it's not surprising that the men, who fought for money and became rich and powerful doing so, were idealised.
Because of capitalism and increasingly centralized power, the feudal system was crumbling and with it the feudal social hierarchy. Capitalism shifted the wealth from land ownership (which feudal nobility was built upon) to capital and trade, deteriorating the hierarchy based on land. At the same time Reformation and centralized secular powers were weakening the power of the Church, wavering also the hierarchy justified by godly ordain. The ruling class was not about to give up their power, so a new social hierarchy needed to form. Through colonialism the concept of race was created and the new hierarchy was drawn from racial, gender and wealth lines. It was a long process, but it started in 1500s, and the increasing distinction between men's and women's fashions was part of drawing those lines. At the same time distinctions between white men and racialized men, as well as white women and racialized women were drawn. As in Europe up until this point, all over the world (with some exceptions) skirts were used by everyone. So when European men fully adopted the trousers, and trousers, as well as their association to military, were equated with masculinity, part of it was to emasculate racialized men, to draw distinctions.
Surprise, it was colonialism all along! Honestly if there's a societal or cultural change after Middle Ages, a good guess for the reason behind it is always colonialism. It won't be right every time, but quite a lot of times. Trousers as a concept is of course not related to colonialism, but the idea that trousers equal masculinity and especially the idea that skirts equal femininity are. So I guess decolonize masculinity by wearing skirts?
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fashionsfromhistory · 5 months
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Sashiko Jacket
1850-1899 (Meiji Era)
Japan
Sashiko is a quilting technique that uses a running stitch to reinforce and prolong the life of a textile or to join together recycled pieces of cloth into a new garment. Japanese farmers used the technique to create warmer and more durable fabrics, and decorative sashiko stitching developed from this practical function. This robe’s embroidered design is dominated by three variations on the pattern of interlocking circles, called shippō-tsunagi. The bottom band features a design of waves.
The MET (Accession Number: 67.172.1)
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gwydpolls · 4 months
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Time Travel Question 35: Ancient History XVI and Earlier
These Questions are the result of suggestions from the previous iteration.
This category may include suggestions made too late to fall into the correct earlier time grouping. Basically, I'd already moved on to human history, but I'd periodically get a pre-homin suggestion, hence the occasional random item waaay out of it's time period, rather than reopen the category.
In some cases a culture lasted a really long time and I grouped them by whether it was likely the later or earlier grouping made the most sense with the information I had. (Invention ofs tend to fall in an earlier grouping if it's still open. Ones that imply height of or just before something tend to get grouped later, but not always. Sometimes I'll split two different things from the same culture into different polls because they involve separate research goals or the like).
Please add new suggestions below if you have them for future consideration. All cultures and time periods welcome.
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• Man's western style "cowboy" two piece suit.
Date: 1936
Medium: Cotton twill with green and purple embroidery of flowers, scrolls and butterflies.
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chinesehanfu · 10 months
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【Han Dynasty Artifact Reference】
China Western Han Dynasty Painted Female Figurines (early and middle period of Western Han)
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・Plain yarn garment (straight) Mawangdui No. 1 Han Tomb (Xinzhui)
material: silk,size: dress length 132 cm, sleeve length 181.5 cm
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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Han Dynasty Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot【风露霓裳】
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📝 Plan: 成都临溪摄影
📸Photo: 何力
💄Stylist:  百丽 熊熊 ​​​
🧚🏻‍ Model: 弋歌
🔗Weibo:https://weibo.com/1648616372/N3L7fw0hT
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tygerland · 17 days
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clove-pinks · 1 year
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Fashion History Books on Internet Archive
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Illustration in La Mode by Paul Gavarni, c. 1835 (Rijksmuseum)
A selection of some of my favourites, free to read and check out once you create a (free) account!
Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century, by C. Willett Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington. I can vouch for this as one of the greatest books in my collection, extensive menswear information. By the same authors: English costume in the Eighteenth, Seventeenth, and Sixteenth centuries.
A History of Men’s Fashion, by Farid Chenoune. A masterwork, absolute must-read primer on men’s fashion from the late 18th century to the late 20th century.
The Encyclopedia of World Costume by Doreen Yarwood. Covers many different cultures over a huge span of time so most topics are not treated in-depth, but still a great reference.
The History of Underclothes, by C. Willett Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington. Also covers men’s shirts in Western dress history, as these were considered undergarments.
Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette, edited by Denis Bruna. A collection of essays on changing dress silhouettes in Western fashion over time, some of them very insightful. 
The Dictionary of Fashion History, by Valerie Cumming. This is the first edition and I have the second, but my top fashion history dictionary and go-to for textiles and items of dress!
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daguerreotyping · 10 months
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Real photo postcard of a pair of well-dressed and well-armed cowboys, c. 1910s
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nochangeintheplan · 1 year
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Hijikata...
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junebugjo · 1 year
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Was tasked with creating a character based on an object for class and I chose this lacquer tray with mother-of-pearl inlay from the Ming Dynasty
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dresshistorynerd · 2 years
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Hey! I love your blog!
I had a little question, if you don't mind: what kind of corsets would a lady would've worn while playing sports or doing stuff that would require her to bend or smth. I know corsets aren't the torturous devices they're made out to be but from what I do know, they probably wouldn't be the best option for when you need to be physically active.
Did they just skip wearing the corsets? Were there special garments that could replace it? Or were there special corsets made for such purposes?
Thank you, I really appreciate it! And thank you for the question, I'll never get tired of talking about corsets :D I will apologize in advance since I could answer quickly and say they had special corsets for sports, but I will go on a little tangent about all the different kind of corsets since there's more to it.
A little summary of different kinds of corsets
There were indeed a wide variety of corsets and most of themwere suitable for physical activities (even in late Victorian Era). I couldn't include everything here, but I'll highlight those I think are relevant for the discussion.
Corset developed out of stays in the early Victorian Era (somewhere around 1840s). Corset is just a different terminology for the supporting undergarment and doesn't really differ that much from stays in principle. Regency stays that were predecessors to corset were very much not restrictive. They rarely had any boning except in the front to keep the boobs separate and the stays from wrinkling. Regency fashion by nature concealed waistline and showed off boobs so the stays were very much only focused on that. During the Victorian era more boning was introduced to the now-corsets as the fashion started to emphasize the waistline. As the Victorian Era progressed forward the fashionable corset started to become more shapely with heavier and more restrictive boning (kinda, the development of the corset and the silhouette wasn't really this linear). However this was only for the corset used with fashion items, things a rich fashionable young lady would wear for outings. Everyone wore corsets, the working class women who did physical labor too. Therefore by the late Victorian Era corsets started to diverge creating increasingly large variety.
So boning is the most well known way to give shape to a corset. Steel bones are the most restrictive ones, but they were usually only used in the front closure and thin steel bones often next to lacing eyelets to give them strength. Baleen was most often used for boning. It's made out of the same tissue as finger nails, so it's very bendable and soft. The main way Victorian corsets gained their strong shapes was the ingeniously engineered panels that when put together created a 3D shape. Softer kind of structure than boning was achieved with cording and even quilting.
Fashionable upper class corset
So lets look at some corsets! Let's start with the peak fashion. This is a silk corset from 1884. On top of the steel bones of the closure it has at least two steel bones on the sides and heavy boning otherwise too. The wide bones are definitely steel and the thinner are probably steel too, but they could also be baleen. This corset was definitely used to show of the latest fashion in high society gatherings and not for too much bending.
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The people who wore this were the same type of fashionable people who might tight-lace for high society events and this corset would be excellent for that purpose. Tight-lacing is what it sounds, the practice of lacing tightly the corset to reduce the waist measurements. It would be uncomfortable and in long term could have health effects. Most people didn't do it for long periods though, why would they when they weren't even wearing the presentable high fashions most of the day.
Working class corset
But as said everyone wore corsets (even men but that is a story for another post) and that includes housemaids, which was one of the most physically demanding positions for women. Symington's Pretty Housemaid corset from 1890s was made for that purpose.
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Symington's corset company, which was created around 1850s, was one of the first clothing companies to adopt the sewing machine for mass production, making their corsets cheap and easily available. By the end of Victorian Era they were the leading corset makers. They had a wide variety of corsets for "normal" people, working class and middle class people, so their products show well what most people wore. Pretty Housemaid corset was marketed for domestic servants and it was marketed as cheap and strong. Corset actually supports back and helps lift heavy things, especially this corset with it's raised back, which is great for a servant. The Pretty Housemaid has only very few baleen bones (only the front has steel bone) most of them ending at waistline, and the rest is just cording. This all makes it very bendable but still supporting so great for hard physical labor.
Another example of 1890s Symington corset is this corset with no boning (except front closure) and only cording and (interestingly) quilting.
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Morning corset
Most people wore corsets somewhere between these and the first example. Not all upper class people wore steel boning, baleen was for them the norm too. But those who did also didn't wear that all the time. Morning corset was very lightly boned corset that was wrapped around the body instead of laced. It didn't shape the body at all and only gave some bust support and a bit of the fashionable silhouette. Here's an illustration of it from 1890s. It was used by upper class women inside home usually during long mornings while getting ready for the day and could be used when receiving close friends and family in the midday/afternoon.
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Ribbon corset
Ribbon corset was very lightly boned corset made out of ribbons instead of fabric. It was an under-bust corset and similarly to morning corset it's barely shaping. Apparently it started as a night corset. You might wonder why would someone need a corset during the night, and it would be the high fashion ladies who wanted to prevent themselves from getting bloated during the night so they would be able to reduce their waistline without some time for adjusting first. It was used similarly to morning corset too and became even more popular in the Edwardian Era. Ribbon corset made out of cotton tape were also used for sports (at least in Edwardian Era).
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Health corsets
In the late Victorian Era health and exercise were getting more popular and fashionable, as were women's rights. Working class women had always of course gotten their excercise from physical labor, but it became popular for upper class women to be athletic. For example upper class women started cycling, ice-skating, mountain climbing and playing tennis and golf. This change has happening at the same time as the Dress Reform Movement came to existence. They aimed to reform the restrictive beauty and fashion ideals of the time. They promoted very successfully sports clothing for women. It was also a backlash to the increasingly boned fashionable corset. This backlash was based partly on the very righteous dissatisfaction with the extremely high beauty standards for women, but also on pseudoscience and men whining women being too vain according to them.
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There were men writing about how corsets will squeeze the internal organs and change their position and shape permanently based on literally vibes alone. It was mixed with fair concerns about tight lacing, though very much blowed out of proportions. This is where the myth of corsets being torture devices survives to this day. So many of the sympathizers of the movement started developing their own suggestion for the reformed corset.
Here's an example of a woolen health corset. With the focus on health there was also a ton of pseudoscience about it (as there is today). One of the claims was that using wool against skin was healthy. And there is a fraction of truth to it. Wool is anti-bacterial, but the claim was that it was healthy as oppposed to cotton and linen. Linen, which is also anti-bacterial. The corset itself is very lightly structured and looks very soft.
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The Edwardian corset was actually born out of the same ideas. The S-bend corset, or straight front corsets as they called it, was supposedly a health corset. I don't really know what they though made it healthier and I would guess it's based on as much scientific rigor as the claims about the health risks of the previous corsets.
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Sport corset
Promoting sports corsets was also a part of the Dress Reform Movement. Sports corsets really became a thing in 1890s. Here's an example of one. It's not shaping and merely supporting. It barely has any boning, if at all, leaning on cording instead.
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Sports corsets never really reached a wide use. They were a kind of novelty and trend. Basically any corset without steel boning was suitable for a lot of physical activities and so only rich people who had the extra money to buy corsets for every use and even used the heavily steel boned ones really even bought the sports corsets. Of course some physical activities (like housemaid duties) would need more bending room than a typical middle/upper class baleen boned corset would allow.
Several modern dress historians and historical dress enthusiasts have tested out their reproduction corsets for various physical activities and recorded them. Here's a video where Bernadette Banner tests out Victorian exercise routine with her 1890s corset. And here's another where Karolina Zebrowska wears full Edwardian attire, including corset, for bouldering. The tl;dr is that both were pretty successful experiments.
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fashionsfromhistory · 10 months
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Dress
1960s
Afghanistan or Uzbekistan
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
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gwydpolls · 3 months
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Time Travel Question 37: Ancient History XVII and Earlier
These Questions are the result of suggestions from the previous iteration.
This category may include suggestions made too late to fall into the correct earlier time grouping. Basically, I'd already moved on to human history, but I'd periodically get a pre-homin suggestion, hence the occasional random item waaay out of it's time period, rather than reopen the category.
In some cases a culture lasted a really long time and I grouped them by whether it was likely the later or earlier grouping made the most sense with the information I had. (Invention ofs tend to fall in an earlier grouping if it's still open. Ones that imply height of or just before something tend to get grouped later, but not always. Sometimes I'll split two different things from the same culture into different polls because they involve separate research goals or the like).
Please add new suggestions below if you have them for future consideration. All cultures and time periods welcome.
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mugenteki · 6 months
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Some EGL Livejournal banners~
Source (x)
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chinesehanfu · 10 months
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【Han Dynasty Historical Reference Artifacts】:  
As early as the late Western Han Dynasty(206 BCE-25S CE), the High hair bun became popular, and it was no longer limited to the low hairstyle like early Western Han Dynasty (put the hair down and tied behind the back). Moreover, high hair bun it has been popular until the Eastern Han Dynasty(25–220)  and Wei & Jin Dynasty. According to the "Ballad in the City《城中谣》" of the Han Dynasty: 
城中好高髻,四方高一尺。 城中好广眉,四方且半额。 城中好大袖,四方全匹帛。
【Translate】
High buns are popular in the city, and people all over the world have buns that are one foot taller.
Wide eyebrow are popular in the city, and people in the world draw(eyebrow) half their foreheads.
Big sleeves are popular in the city, and people all over the world use whole pieces of cloth to make them.
※" Ballad in the City 《城中谣》" is a folk song in "Yuefu Poetry Collection Miscellaneous Songs and Ballads《乐府诗集·杂歌谣辞》". On the surface, it talks about the fashion and its variation in the Han Dynasty, but actually satirizes the social atmosphere of blindly following the trend at that time.
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In addition, There were also changes in the way of dressing in the Western Han Dynasty and Eastern Han Dynasty Period.
Left:Murals of the Eastern Han Dynasty from Dahuting Han tombs
Right: female pottery figurines of the Western Han Dynasty (presumably early Western Han Dynasty)
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Western Han Dynasty Mural Tomb unearthed from Xi'an University of Technology↓
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Western Han Dynasty Mural,Unearthed from Cuizhuyuan Tomb No lin Qujiang New District of Xi'an, Shaanxi, in 2008
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Western Han Dynasty Murals, Luoyang Museum Collection
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Eastern Han Dynasty Mural in Lujiazhuang, Anping County/安平县逯家庄东汉壁画墓
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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Eastern Han Dynasty (25–220 A.D.) Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot
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📸Photo:@松果sir
👗Hanfu:@桑纈
📍Filming Location: Minhou, Fuzhou,China
🔗Weibo:https://weibo.com/3250619702/N4GoJiBmz
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Roots of Rock and Roll
You have probably seen this or that opinion on the "first" rock and roll record. The problem with most of those opinions is that they are describing the acknowledged era of rock and roll, the era in which Alan Freed and others were calling it by that name.
In reality, music that sounded little different goes back to the 1920's. The first song that might possibly be described as rock and roll comes from an unlikely source: A proto-country musician who goes back so far that his music is called "old time" rather than country, one "Uncle" Dave Macon.
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While West African rhythms form the basis of most rock and roll, there were fast fiddle reels (County Donegal, Ireland comes to mind) that had similarly scorching rhythms, and in one song, "Sail Away Ladies" (1927), Macon, originally from Tennessee, released a song that not only had a rockabilly feel and tempo, but included the lyrics, "Don't she rock, daddio?"
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"Minnie the Moocher" (1931) by Cab Calloway set the tone for Calloway's career, which, while generally placed in the jazz genre, had sharper syncopation and far edgier lyrics than any jazz in the mainstream, at least in his era.
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Bob Wills was the chief innovator of Western swing, from which one Bill Haley later emerged. He grew up in Texas, and unlike most people in a tragically segregated era, was allowed to befriend other children regardless of race, and as such, heard boogie-woogie and similar "fast blues", which African-American musicians in Texas played at a faster tempo than their counterparts in the southeast.
Wills's most proto-rockabilly (or, arguably, rockabilly) song might be "Steel Guitar Rag" (1936). Wills famously said of rock and roll, "Why, man, that's the same kind of music we've been playin' since 1928!"
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It may have been of Wills's music that Don Raye (not from Texas) was thinking in the song "Beat Me Daddy, Eight to the Bar" (1940), with the lyrics, "In a little honky tonky village in Texas". It is often cited as the first rock and roll record, and a case could be made to that effect.
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World War II interrupted musical innovation to some extent, that being the least of a generation's concerns, so the final piece of what was rock and roll in everything but name was provided by Arthur "Big Boy" Crudup.
Crudup's "That's All Right (Mama)", released in his, the original 1946 version, was not only later covered by Elvis Presley, but contains the first recorded guitar "breaks", adding another, jolting layer of syncopation to the increasingly fast blues of the era. By this time, rock and roll was alive and well, by any name, and so was rockabilly, as a listen to "Freight Train Boogie" (1946) by The Delmore Brothers, demonstrates.
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