#zhiju

[hanfugallery]

chinese hanfu in style of warring states period by 南山韵味

[fouryearsofshades]

zhiju pao by 乔织丨原创汉服设计 

[jinghuyue]

楚国纯狐 ×3

[chinesehanfu]

[Hanfu · 漢服]China Han Dynasty Chinese Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoots-Western Han 【西汉·树生】

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📸Photo：@赵橙Cc

👗Hanfu： @丹青荟传统服饰 ​​​

🧚🏻‍ Model：@雪樱樱呀

🔗Weibo：https://weibo.com/7016881723/M7xJnd6fs

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[newhanfu]

Hanfu Zhiju for Winter

From Hanfu Model- Jin Ji Xiao Ajiu

[fuckyeahchinesefashion]

BY 换谁不迷糊呀 (fyi, don't try chinese daoism 手印shouyin/指诀zhijue in a bold manner because↓

[chococococya]

Qian Cao Peak Uniform

- For the Healer Peak, I decided that their vocal point will be the hats. You have the Donghua to thank for that. It’s only logical that inhabitants of this Peak to pull their hair back so it won’t get the way of their daily activities; such as surgeries or tending the herbal medicine garden. Then the bun would be encased inside the hats or headwraps. The hats used here aren’t limited to just futou or fujin. Just look at what MQF wear lol

- The garment they wear is called shenyi. The earliest record of shenyi dated all the way back to Zhou Dynasty. It experienced a decline during Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties, before making a comeback around Song and Ming Dynasties. The simple design would fit Qian Cao, who would prioritize saving lives over looking fashionable. I imagine they would have pockets or even little straps sewn inside the sleeves to hold the acupuncture needles XD

- For the female population of Qian Cao Peak, they have the options to wear zhiju or quju. Both still fall under shenyi category. Zhiju is also worn by guys, thus making them unisex clothing. They wear pants underneath. Yes, I will keep reminding you this because I refuse to bend to PIDW logic.

- The younger girls (outer+junior disciples) wear epa, a type of head cover, while the older girls (senior+elders) get to wear fujin. They can wear the futou too should they choose.

- According to novel canon and donghua, Mu Qingfang wear green and white. So here their Peak’s primary color is white, with green secondary to differentiate them from Qing Jing. Even though futou in real life are black, all the headwear worn in Qian Cao are white to announce their cultivator status. Personally it looked similar to nurse caps for me.

[wiz-writes]

Just finished reading Out of the Yinshan!! I really enjoyed it! It's so well written, and I can't wait to see where the story goes! I was in no way expecting that cliff hanger😅 I did have one question, though, if that's alright. When we're able to choose our robes, are certain styles more masculine/feminine/androgynous? Or are all the robe choices pretty gender neutral? Thank you!

All three robe choices are based on actual historical clothing.

The one with the pleated skirt is "tieli", the round-collared robe is "yuanlingpao" and the last one is "zhiju".

While tieli was probably only worn by men, the other two are pretty much unisex.

In my opinion though, I think that all the clothes look quite gender-neutral.

You can find some really nice pictures and explanations here.

[icancdramahanfu]

hello! Id like to ask if you can describe what are the layers Luo Binghe (thai version) from SVSSS are wearing? Im having troubles the one with the collar im on a budget and I wanna cosplay him thanks a bunch!

Hello, 

Happy to hear you are looking to cosplay LBH!  Ah, the very pretty but complicated Thai cover artwork. . . this one makes me groan at how intricate it is.  I screen shot this from the SVSSS carrd.

There is a lot of layer action going on.  Kityone, an amazing soul, did great work to remove text from more official artwork for the Thai editions.

This is the only full length shot of Binghe’s outfit I could find.

kityone, did a spectacular job; when you click on the image you can zoom in!

Layers 1.) Zhong yi layer 1- innermost layer - black.  I’d pick a cotton or linen fabric for this.  You are looking at one that is very slim fitting. The Hanfu Story sells them as well to give you an idea for cut; see here

2.) Zhiju layer 2 - straight hem robe - black with narrow sleeves.  It has what I think is an ‘artistic/anachronistic’ high Mandarin-ish style collar.  The Erha manhua/artwork does this all the time.  It seems to be a thing for xianxia attire.  It is hard to find info on this in English, so, I could totally be wrong.  I can only find that type of collar on vintage patterns - think cheongsam/qipao or maybe Qing historical garments.  I’d personally copy the cheongsam/qipao collar as a base pattern and then modify it to match the hanfu style.  I know this is a huge shortcut but it makes sense in my mind.  Do a mock up with scrap fabric. 3.) Zhuji layer 3 - straight hem robe with red neck placket and red sleeve cuffs.  I think this has shorter sleeves that fall just past the elbow (3/4 length?) and are super wide.  [cries in sheer yardage]  The sleeve looks like it almost reaches mid-calf or lower.  I think it is supposed to be imperial/royal level - like the looooong sleeves you see in Nirvana in Fire worn by the princes when they attend court.  The neckline is a deeper V and I think a good reference for the cut is from the cdrama My Heroic Husband with the MC, Ning Yi.  His outfits frequently have this style which makes a clear X across the chest.  The blue/teal one in the middle is the best match and seems to fall in the right spot on the chest.

4.) Belt with long fabric strip/accent.  I have no idea what the large silver belt buckle is supposed to look like - we don’t have good enough detail and resolution.  However, we can see that there is a long strip of red fabric that falls from the waist down the front to the feet almost.  On top of the red fabric is a fancier accent piece in black with silver trim and tassels.  I think it is a mix of these accessories from LBH and SQQ in the Korean cover here.  With the shape of SQQ’s being a slightly better match - minus the tasseled pendant.

5.) Banbi jacket/coat - white with red trim and “artistic” choice collar.  The jacket is a short sleeve one with a red cuff/trim that is clearly an under layer but I would attach it to the white jacket to make my life easier and less sweaty.  The popped collar baffles me - is it sort of like a jacket with a lapel-ish collar?  It gives me vibes of the jackets that Sakamoto and Takasugi wear in Gintama and shogunate officials which are also anachronistic by design in a series like Gintama.  Or maybe a better comparison is the donghua for Thousand Autumns and Yan Wushi’s open collar layer?

It looks like the neck placket itself is thick in the middle and normal on the outside.  I’ve attempted to make a quick example of what I think this looks like here.

I think this is what I would do to sew it onto the jacket and make sure to add interfacing and iron it well. I would do these five layers if I wanted to cosplay this LBH outfit.  The zhong yi layer is really important since that is where you are gonna sweat the most, I found it worked well with my 13 hours of WKX with a wig in LA having to stand outside in lines in the summer temps. Good luck!

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log - Master Post

Making Lan Wangji

(AKA My Lan Zhan Cosplay Log)

This went from a historical project to cosplaying all the Hanguang-Jun, Lan Wangji in existence!  The main concept is Lan Wangji’s (LWJ) novel/manhua/audio drama design.  As the project started pre-pandemic, I didn’t consider the butler or dragon au in the design.  That would be too much.  There is a dash of videogame in him since there were some details I liked in that model.  If the title is “Mo Dao Zu Shi” then I have incorporated Lan Wangji’s description and concept arts into my design.  

Lan Wangji as known in The Untamed was generally avoided save for a tiny nod to the show’s Gusu Lan Clan.  “Mo Dao Zu Shi” Wangji and “Untamed” Wangji are distinct in my opinion.  Neither is superior from the other, just different enough that I need to pick one interpretation to play with.  The actors of Untamed, especially Xiao Zhan, really claimed the characters as their own and portrayed them wonderfully.  Wang Yibo’s Wangji is his Wangji, I won’t interfere that.  If you want to see that interpretation of Lan Wangji, then go watch the show.  It already exists.

A few caveats before you dive in:

1)     I am not a seamstress or tailor so I don’t know all the proper sewing terminology in English or any other language 2)     Also, modern romanization of Chinese confuses the shit out of me, a native speaker, so apologies for any spelling mistakes.  The Yale Romanization made so much more sense but then China thought they understood the English alphabet better than native English speakers so here we are.  Do as the Romans do, I guess. 3)     I am not a historical costumer either so all my info come from conjecture and research 4)     I am not a Chinese historian but I like to think I know enough about my history and culture through osmosis and the hell-hole disguised as Chinese school to talk about it 5)     I am not trying to make an authentic historical costume, I’m trying to make an anachronistic fantasy costume. Historicity went out the window the minute LWJ and every adult character decided to have their hair down.  I did try to make a semi-historically accurate version?  Depended on the mood at time of construction. 6)     I suck at being Chinese apparently so that will be my safety net if everything fails horribly :P  

The Lan Zhan Cosplay Log Layer 1:  Undergarments! 中衣 Layer 2A:  Yichang 衣裳   Layer 2B:  Ruqun 襦裙 Layer 3:  Zhiju 直裾 Layer 4A:  Leatherwork Layer 4B:  Jade Bling Layer 5A:  Dachang 大氅 Layer 5B:  Bijia 比甲 Layer 0:  Hair, Props, “Cheating,” & Overall Stats

Exhibit:  LWJ cosplay in action [1][2]

Citation

Patterning:  https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qb411j7z6?spm_id_from=333.905.b_72656c61746564.1

http://www.yeoh.com/index2.php?section=journal&g=691

https://cosplayqna.tumblr.com/image/38971971992

https://torguqin.wordpress.com/hanfu/hanfu-tutorial-list/

Hanfu Resources:

@ziseviolet:  https://ziseviolet.tumblr.com/about

@fouryearsofshades:  https://fouryearsofshades.tumblr.com/post/179249195707/hello-do-you-happen-to-have-a-master-post-of-all

[darkeningclouds]

China Masterlist 🏮

Umbrella Terms

Huafu (any clothing originating in China)

Hanfu (Han-Chinese ethnic clothing)

Hanyuansu (western clothing inspired by hanfu)

Modified Hanfu

Wedding Hanfu

Winter Hanfu

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General Hanfu Terms

Men’s Hanfu

Mianfu (emperor’s clothes)

Dachang (male equivalent of a pifeng)

Yichang 

Yuanlingpao

Qiyao Ruqun (Parallel Collar) (Crossed Collar)

Moxiong (undergarment for women)

Shan

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Han Dynasty + Wei/Jin Dynasties

Quju

Danyi (sheer coat for shenyi)

Shenyi

Zhiju

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Tang Dynasty

Daxiushan (lit. big sleeved shirt)

Banbi (Tang Dynasty beizi)

Banxiu 

Tanling (U-collared shirt)

Qixiong Ruqun (chest-high ruqun)

Yaoqun

Heiziqun

Hezi

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Song Dynasty

Beizi (narrow-sleeved coat with slits on the side)

Beixin (sleeveless version of the beizi)

Moxiu (similar to a shan but the sleeves are wider and shorter)

Lanshan

Xiapei

Baidiequn

Song-style Pants

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Ming Dynasty

Pifeng (big sleeved coat)

Bijia (sleeveless version of a pifeng)

Zhaojia (male equivalent of a bijia)

Changshan

Zhuyao

Mamianqun (horse-faced skirt)

Aoqun

Zhiduo

Daopao

Tieli (pleats go around the skirt)

Yesa (no pleats at the front of the skirt)

Fengguan (phoenix crown)

Yunjian (shoulder accessory)

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Qing Dynasty

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Republican Era/Minguo

Qipao/Cheongsam

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Footwear

Zaoxue

Chixi

Fangxi

Qitoulv

Qiaotoulv

Yuntoujinlv

Tang-Style Astana Cemetery Raised Head Shoes

Tang-Style Astana Cemetery Shoes

Fanglv

Gongxie

Dengyunlv

Yunwa (socks)

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Makeup

Pearl Makeup

Huadian (forehead)

Xiehong (side of face)

Mianye (dimples)

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Musical Instruments

Guzheng

Pipa

Yueqin

Guqin

Dizi

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Other Clothing Tags

Qi Lolita

Qungua

Xiuhefu

Xiyu

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Other Tags

Chinese Opera

Beijing Opera

C-Drama

Guzhuang

Gufeng

[hanfugallery]

chinese hanfu in style of warring states period by 南山韵味

[fouryearsofshades]

quju (green border) and zhiju by 入时无传统服饰工作室 

[asian-folk-wardrobe]

[chinesehanfu]

【Artifact Reference】

China Western Han Dynasty Painted Female Figurines (early and middle period of Western Han）

China National Museum Western Han Dynasty Woman Restoration Wax Sculpture

[Hanfu · 漢服]China Western Han Dynasty Chinese Traditional Clothing Hanfu ：【Liu Xijun's Clothing Story｜The first Heqin Princess (marriage alliance) who name was recorded at history actually are the daughter of a Criminal Prince?】

Cooperate with 【 @MYONS弥玥泉  Miyuequan hydrating spray 】

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【History About Princess Xijun of Han Dynasty 】

Liu Xijun (Chinese: 劉細君;123?–101 BC), also known as Princess Xijun (細君公主), Princess of Jiangdu (Chinese: 江都公主) or the Princess of Wusun (Chinese: 烏孫公主), was a princess of the Han dynasty sent to marry the King of Wusun(烏孫) as marriage alliance. A poem said to be by her is one of the earliest known Chinese poems attributable to a named woman.

Liu Xijun was the daughter of the King of Jiangdu (in modern-day Yangzhou, Jiangsu), Liu Jian (劉建) and granddaughter of Liu Fei, brother of Emperor Wu of Han. Xijun was orphaned while still an infant. Her father was described as incestuous, cruel and depraved, and had to commit suicide after being implicated in a rebellion. Her mother was also executed the same year for “practicing witchcraft”. As daughter of disgraced parents, she would likely have a low status at the Han court.

In 105 BC, Xijun's status was elevated and she was made a princess by Emperor Wu（漢武帝）. The emperor wanted to send her off to marry the king (Kunmi or Kunmo) of the Wusun, Liejiaomi (猎驕靡), with the intention of forming an alliance with the Wusun and breaking up the confederacy of the Xiongnu. After a gift of 1,000 horses from the Wusun were sent to the Han court, she was sent to the Wusun 5,000 miles away in the Ili valley area with a retinue of 100 officials, eunuchs, servants and carriages. After her marriage, she was made Lady of the Right, a position subordinate to the Lady of the Left who was of Xiongnu origin.

However, her husband was elderly, she rarely saw him and could not communicate with him. Two years after she married to Wusun King, The Wusun King died. Most of the ancient nomadic had the custom of "Shouji Marriage/ Widow inheritance(收继婚)"which mean a custom that compulsory marriage of a widow to a brother of her deceased husband etc. In the case of the royal family, it is necessary to marry the next King. Xijun is the King's Lady, after the king's death, she needs to marry the next king according to the custom, and the next king was her husband grandson Cenzou (岑陬). 

Although Xijun protested such remarriage which was considered improper in Han Chinese custom and beg to Emperor Wu (漢武帝) to let her return to Han, the Emperor Wu (漢武帝) replied that she should comply as the alliance with Wusun was deemed necessary to vanquish the Xiongnu (匈奴). She duly married Cenzou, who became king after Liejiaomi died. She had a daughter with him in 102 BC, and died the following year.She died at the age of 21, and never returned to her country in her life. A further princess named Princess Jieyou was sent to marry Cenzou (岑陬) after her death.

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A poem credited to Xijun is given in Hanshu:

【悲愁歌/ Song of Sorrow 】

悲愁歌吾家嫁我兮天一方， 

 My family married me off to the edge of the world

遠托異國兮烏孫王。

Far away in the strange land of the Wusun king

穹廬為室兮旃為牆，

A domed hut is my chamber, the felt my walls

以肉為食兮酪為漿。

Meat is my food, fermented milk my drink

居常土思兮心內傷，

Living here, I long for my land, and my heart aches

願為黃鵠兮歸故鄉。

Wishing I could be a yellow swan,and return to my old home

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In the history that has lasted for hundreds of years, the marriage of princesses to foreign country/tribe has become a common diplomatic method. Countless women who shoulder the heavy trust of the empire and share the name of "Princess" go to foreign countries alone to complete the mission of unknown answer.Their fate is forced to conform to the torrent of the times, it is a sigh.

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🧚🏻Model&📸 Video  ： @我是411

👗Hanfu ：   @春谷山房 @丹青荟传统服饰

🔗Weibo：https://weibo.com/2040114485/M87FzECWs

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[newhanfu]

Hanfu Zhiju

from photographer gogo