Taking form of a digital archive of visual and auditory components, this collection is meant to reference, compare and allude to different influences and components that all together create a form of counter-cultural symbolism, an almost holistic, non-specialized art form that foreshadows and underlines the aesthetics of specifically Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons, but also Helmut Lang. All of the above have created “urban silhouettes, marrying basic shapes with edgy color combinations and advanced technological fabrics, which were both the crucial look for fashion insiders, and the key influence on other designers, eager to find a new vision of the modern.” Arnold 2001:20. I will specifically focus on the idea of the antinomic theme that all three designers play with; being fashioned around material formality, symbolic severity and Youth culture with its underlying fragility. Slimane, Lang and Simons created a “Silent counter-movement” to the Yves Saint Laurent, Mugler, Gaultier style that the Fashion world had previously been exposed to.
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When “GIF” was named word of the year in 2012, Oxford Dictionaries U.S.A. credited Tumblr for pushing the word.
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Here are the Rules:
Treat this blog as an archive. An archive of visual and auditory all somehow linked to one another. How they are linked is up to your own interpretation, however there is generally a common ‘red thread’ from one post to the other. Alltogether, these references are meant to allude to the importance of subcultural and socio-political/artistic influences on the developments of trends in Menswear and avant-garde fashion - originally seen in the creations of Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons and Helmut Lang.
These transversal approaches to fashion and gender have been embraced by younger designers such as JW Anderson, Vêtements and more, who incorporate typically "feminine" textures and socio-political motifs into menswear.
Ideally, one should begin this archive by starting from the bottom and working their way up to the top, however working your way downwards works as well.
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Why Trace Back?
Raf Simons has captured the zeitgeist of contemporary fashion since the introduction of his label in 1995, providing menswear with a diverse variety of designs, forms, and symbols that express ideas about masculinity, influenced by European pop culture and electronic music, fine art, modernist architecture, and graphic design.
Slimane's reputation is built on the promotion of a skinny style stolen from youth subcultures, which streamlined and rejuvenated the male silhouette. Slimane's influence can be seen in two ways: the incorporation of formal features such as the streamlined suit jacket into casual menswear, and the heightened "feminization" of men's apparel. Raf Simons' recent shift to classic tailoring is an indication that designers who were once known for reinterpreting counter-cultural iconography are now reinterpreting simple conventions.
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futuristic, marginal, and otherworldly ideal of masculinity, the screen prototype for which was David Bowie’s gaunt alien figure in The Man Who Fell to Earth (Roeg (dir.), 1976).
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Boys Keep Swinging: The Fashion Iconography of Hedi Slimane
Nick Rees-Roberts To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.2752/175174113X13502904240659
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Loosely composed typography sometimes comes from the song lyrics, underlines its rhythm, and sometimes it’s just a single, random word.
Note the similarity of Russian Avant-Garde to Raf Simon’s typography on garments
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Kraftwerk, Neo-Punk and Russian Avant Garde
All of the above characteristics can be assigned to the main stylistic traits of an avant-garde movement – Russian constructivism of the 1920s. The ‘Man Machine’ cover is thus a pastiche, an intentional reference to the 20s Russian avant-garde.
The color palette is narrowed to black, white and red – the so-called poster colors, where black and white create the ultimate contrast and red functions as the dominant element. Red also has radically different meanings. On the one hand it is associated with love, warmth and energy, on the other – with war, violence and blood.
https://www.retroavangarda.com/avant-garde-inspirations-kraftwerk-franz-ferdinand-and-laibach/
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In a Dazed interview last year, Dior creative director and fashion auteur Raf Simons spoke of a youth spent sewing Kraftwerk, Black Flag and Sonic Youth patches onto his clothes. Like many of us, music and its reference points has lived with Simons from an early age; the youth, the cultures and the fashion. This fascination with music fed into his designs, the most poignant example of his affection a homage collection to Richey Edwards, the missing Manics’ guitarist. Simons also worked closely with Factory Records’ in-house graphic designer Peter Saville, remixing some of Saville’s images for his AW03 collection.
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Nothing stands in your way / When you’re a boy […] You can wear a uniform / When you’re a boy / Other boys check you out…
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The electric high and underground railway in Berlin. The power plant together with residential and administrative buildings on Tempelhofer Ufer. Arch. Paul Wittig. 1902.
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Irony of digitalized humanity. Robot-like. Kraftwerk poster
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reference to the idea of militarism, uniform and singularity in a modern context
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