gilespaxman

[gilespaxman]

10 June Mark, Robbie, Barbara, Jorge and Noellia had booked a diving trip so the rest of us got up early and took a taxi up the valley and into the hills behind the bay where we are anchored. Then we walked for a couple of hours through the tropical forest up to a pass from where we could see down to the sea on the other side of the island. It. Was quite hard going as the path was slippy and strewn with roots. So, having worked up an appetite, we found a restaurant on the hillside and sat down to a "Polynesian lunch". Fried fish, raw fish, chicken and spinach, rice, sweet potato, yam, plantain, something that may have been manioc, steamed bread, pumpkin jelly and some other unidentifiable stogy stuff. Now we know why the Polynesians are so big. 11 June Our last day at sea. Jorge and Nicola had spent yeaterday evening detaching the mainsail and trussing it up in the boom for offloading at Pape'ete, where it should be quickly repaired. The sky was overcast and there was little wind, so we motored the 20 miles or so to Tahiti where Robbie and Barbara, Nick and we will be disembarking and two other friends arriving for some gentle cruising down to Bora Bora and back. Tahiti is composed of two round islands of unequal size surrounded by a reef and joined by a narrow isthmus. The centre of the larger island is effectively one large volcanic crater with mountains rising to well over 2000 metres with forests, waterfalls and black sandy beaches. 70% of the population of French Polynesia live there. Pape'ete, the capital, is a medium sized town with a large commercial port, although, it being Sunday, there was not much going on there.  We came alongside next to the main square - the first time we have been attached to the land for nearly eight weeks - and offloaded the mainsail onto the dock. Beside us were several huge gin palaces, festooned with communications equipment. One even had it's own supply ship, about half as large again as Rapture, to carry the helicopter amd other toys. Most of the colonial era buildings have long gone from the streets of Pap'ete, to be replaced by rather nondescript concrete constructiosns. The town now has a rather down at heel air to it, particuarly on a Sunday afternoon, when nothing is open, the streets are deserted, and people lounge aimlessly in doorways in the sweltering heat. We searched for a restaurant to celebrate our last night and Mark's birthday tomorrow and eventually found an Italian place in a side street where we eat a huge dinner 12 June In the morning we went to the market, described in the guide book as a "must see" feature of Pape'ete. It was pleasant enough, though rather touristy and lacking the vobranc eand colour of a Mexican or Indian market. Mark bought a sloar powered plastic hula dancer as a present forTed and we, too bought a few souvenirs. We spent the rest of the day lazing around and left for the airport in the evening for our return flight. This voyage has been an incredible experience. Many people dream of visiting the Galapagos or Tahiti. Few have even heard of the Marquesas or the Tuamotus. To visit all of these wonderful places in one trip, and in such a fantastic boat with such excellent company is, indeed, the experience of a lifetime. It will feel strange being back in St Margarets.

[gilespaxman]

[gilespaxman]

[gilespaxman]

9 June

Mo'orea is shaped like an inverted triangle with two deep indents on its northern side.  It lies about 15 miles to the east of Tahiti. The terrain is mountainous and the island is surrounded by a reef, from which it is separated by a narrow lagoon. The LP, as usual, waxes lyrical. "If you've been dreaming of holiday-brochure turquoise lagoons, white sand beaches, vertical peaks and lush landscapes, you'd be hard pressed to find better than this gem of an island....  The drawcard is the limpid warm water of the vibrant lagoon... Whatever the experience, there's only one word to describe Mo'orea: divine!"

We arrived at lunchtime,, after a gentle overnight cruise, and anchored in the mouth of one of the indents, behind the reef, in the company of a dozen other boats. The guide book says that people from Tahiti come here to unwind (although I can hardly imagine that Tahiti is a particularly stressful place to live). However, after the Galapagos, Marquesas and Tuamotus, Mo'orea seems a hive of activity.  There are a couple of resort hotels at the end of the bay. Cars go to and fro along the coast road. A small cruise ship is anchored in the bay.  Jet skis criss cross the bay and a helicopter flew in while we were having lunch.

It is still pretty laid back though and the scenery, high wooded hillsides sweeping down to sandy shores, is spectacular. As I write, I am sitting in the bar of a hotel by the swimming pool drinking a pina colada (Mo’orea is the pineapple capital of Polynesia) watching the sun go down.  Civilisation has it's benefits!

[gilespaxman]

8 June

The ebb tide had begun to flow as we entered the pass. The current picked us up and propelled us out of the lagoon, past the reefs on which the Pacific swell was gently breaking and out to sea. We motor sailed down the coast of Apataki, past Arutua and Kaukura and out into the ocean for our 240 mile hop down to the Society Islands.

Life on board quickly, if briefly, returned to passage mode, albeit with a few more creature comforts than usual.  We can choose our watches. The cushions are still out on the decks and the awning is up over the aft cockpit. We drink water out of glasses rather than from the bottle. The ladies are giving themselves facials.  The division between "guests" and "crew" which emerged when we arrived in Fakarava is still there.

Today is election day in the UK. We have been totally cut off from the campaigning and have no idea what Is happening as we lounge on deck or in our bunks enjoying our last full day at sea.

[gilespaxman]

7 June

We had been thinking of moving on again today but the sun was shining and this spot is so idyllic that we decided to spend the day lazing around here. Archie and Nick took a diving lesson from Robbie. Segolene and I went walking on the beach and snorkelling amongst the coral heads. We read, chatted and dozed.

Time flows easily by here and one day slips seamlessly into the next. You become used to waking up in magical anchorages, swimming in cristal clear waters and walking on deserted beaches. We rarely see other boats when we are sailing and there are few tourists when we are on land. Here in Apataki, we have not seen anyone else since we arrived two days ago. I suspect that may change after the next stage of our journey when we reach Moorea, which is just a stone's throw from Tahiti and a return to civilisation after over 7 weeks in the wilderness.

[gilespaxman]

6 June

It rained a lot overnight and the day dawned wet and overcast.  We took the  dinghy ashore, walked amongst the abandoned huts of the pearl fishermen and snorkelled on the reef. Archie found an oyster and, convinced that it contained a pearl, spent the best part of an hour trying to prise it out from the crevice in the coral in which it was lodged.  He eventually managed to pull it off by tying the dinghy painter around it and driving the engine astern. Unfortunately the oyster fell to the seabed amongst hundreds of empty oyster shells and, hunt as he might, Archie couldn't find it.

We weighed anchor and motored up to the north of the atoll, where we anchored off another coral beach just inside the pass. After a swim and a walk on the beach, Mark produced a bottle of gin: "Seven Sisters" the new brand from the Rathfinny vineyard. "What's it like drinking you own gin on your own gin palace?" said Robbie. " Not bad", replied Mark.

[gilespaxman]

5 June

After nearly a week in Fakarava, we're on our way again, up past the island of Toau to Apataki, one of the medium sized atolls, about 18 miles long with a pass at each end of the lagoon. We came in through the pass at the south west end, past a small village and into the calm water of the lagoon. There were no other boats around and, as we began to look for somewhere to anchor, we realised why.  The surface of the water was scattered with bouys and, we discovered when the boat was brought gently to a halt, tethered below water level were lines of buoys connected by ropes.

We consulted the chart and noticed an annotation to the effect that there were numerous pearl farms in the area. We freed ourselves and started to pick our way gently through the maze. Eventually we came out into clear water and  found somewhere to anchor some distance from the village and the shore. We had a beer, swam and watched the sun go down over the palm trees on the rim of the atoll.

[gilespaxman]

4 June

"You jump in, Archie, and see if there many sharks around. If there are I'll come in too." Those are words I never though  I'd hear myself say.  But it was our third snorkel of the morning, we had become quite blase about the sharks and I didn't want all the hassle of getting my flippers on agan if there was nothing much to see. We had taken the dinghy right up into the pass where the current was strong and there were a few divers around but I wasn't sure whether I wanted to swim again.

A few seconds later I was back in the water. There were literally hundreds of sharks swimming around a few metres below us. Black tips, white tips, lemon sharks all cruising contentedly The current carried us swiftly down as Mark followed with the dinghy. Soon we were out of the pass and gliding over an amazing multicoloured coral landscape. There were fewer sharks here but more fish as the current slackened. We began to dive down and hang onto rocks in the middle of huge shoals of fish. Tiny blue ones, so bright that it seemed that they must be illuminated from inside. Moorish idols, all yellow and black with long trails hanging from their dorsal fins. A couple of moray eels. Other fish of every shape and colour imaginable swimming in and out of the coral. One of the most amazing experiences of my life.

When we got back to the boat a dozen small blacktips had gathered to feast off the remains of last night's dinner and Dani and Noellia had prepared a huge breakfast. We weighed anchor and motored the 30 miles back to the north of the lagoon where we plan to pick up Sarah's brother, Robbie, and his wife Barbara for the rest of the trip.

[gilespaxman]

3 June

Segolene and Sarah both arrived safely after their marathon flights. The white china was on the table for breakfast: cereals, bacon and eggs, pan con tomate, jamon, salami, cheeses, tropical fruits, the whole works. Then a gentle cruise across the lagoon, with Jorge or Nicola up the mast to spot any rogue coral heads, down to the Tetamanu pass at the south end of the lagoon, where we anchored in one of he most idyllic spots imaginable - pink sand, palm trees, every shade of blue imaginable in the sea, clear blue sky with whispy white clouds.

The Tetamanu Pass is reputed to be one of the best dive sites in the world. People pay fortunes and come from far and wide to  dive with the sharks. Soon after we dropped anchor a couple of inquisitive black tips swam up to the stern to check us out. Then some people rowed over from another boat waxing lyrical about diving surrounded by 300 sharks. There was some hesitation over who should be the first in the water but, hey, what the heck, they won't eat you. Will they?

Once we summoned up the courage, the snorkelling was amazing. We found a gap in the reef with a multicoloured wall of coral and lots of brightly coloured fish. Archie spotted a monster fish, 4 feet long and over a foot high, which we followed around for a while. And the sharks? Well we did see a few but they took absolutely no interest in us.

[gilespaxman]

2 June

This morning i swam over to the shore. As I was starting back, navigating my way through the coral heads, I spotted two long, dark shapes swimming lazily to one side of me. Normally this would have been a cause for anxiety, a quickening of the heartbeat and some more energetic and purposeful swimming. Not this time, however. I recognised the shapes immediately as Sid and Doris, the two nurse sharks that hang about in the shallows near the bar. They are about 7 or 8 feet long and wander aimlessly around the seabed with their noses to the sand, rather like Snuff in the kitchen at Baronsfield Road, hoping to stumble across some tasty tit bit left by the local fisherman.  I wished them well and went on my way.

Segolene arrives today (along with some fruit and veg we have ordered from Tahiti - Dani bought up virtually all the stock in the local shop and we still need more). I had been planniing to welcome her with a garland of flowers at the airport but couldn't work out how to make one. Noellia picked some flowers when she was ashore yesterday but they have all wilted. It's the thought that counts.

The plan is to sail across the lagoon to the south of the atoll tomorrw moring after Sarah arrives, spend the night there and come back the folowing moring to pick up Sarah's brother, Robbie, and his wife Barbara. Then we'll set off for one of the other atolls.

Can't wait to get all the news from home.

[gilespaxman]

31 May

Some more boat cleaning this morning, in preparation for "the girls’" arrival. All is  now spick and span and we have transformed from delivery mode to cruising mode. Metal work shining, cushion covers changed, floors polished, swimming towels at the ready. Much discussion of where we should go over the next few days. How much sailing? How much lazing around? How much sightseeing (not that there is much to see apart from beaches and coral)? No firm decisions were taken as we expect that "the girls" will have views.

So, after all this strenuous activity, we set off in the dinghy for some snorkelling on a nearby reef. Nice coral. Pretty fish. No sharks, although a few little ones seem to have taken up residence under Rapture and quickly gobble up any morsels that might happen to fall overboard. They didn't bother me when I went swimming this morning morning, though. I looked at them sternly (Lauren's "i don't think that's appropriate behaviour" look) and they slunk off.

[gilespaxman]

31 May

Today the boat came in. Nick and I wandered down to the jetty to take a look. It was a real hive of activity. Vehicles of all shapes and descriptions had converged on the dock. Oil drums, gas botles, toiletteries, cleaning products and foodstuffs were being piled on pick ups. A fork lift truck was loading greasy sacks of copra. Under a small tent, a burly Polynesian in a hard hat and ear protectors was painstakingly checking invoices and taking money from a patient queue of women. Sadly, no sign of fruit and veg, but we live in hope.

[gilespaxman]

30 May

A lazy day. We had to shift anchor as we were told that we were in the way of the supply ship that arrives at the crack of dawn tomorrow. (Hooray! Fresh fruit and veg!)  We then went ashore and, after an internet fix, rented bikes. First task: to find  a restaurant for dinner as Marcel is leaving tomorrow.  No luck. We went to anything resembling a restaurant or cafe in, or near, Rotoava, but none was open. Was this South Pacific "far niente"  or just that food had run out until the ship arrives tomorrow Who knows? Marcel will just have to make do with dinner on board.

Then we rode our trusty bikes (a bit like Boris bikes: big, heavy and rattling but without any gears) out of town, past the airport, which was shut, down a long dirt track to a deserted beach where we swam, snorkelled on the reef and lounged under the palm trees, taking care not to position ourselves in a spot where we might be killed by falling coconuts. (I suppose there are worse ways to go.)  In the evening, after dinner, we played cards. I was winning until Mark brought out the whisky. Strange, that.

Meanwhile, Nicola, the new skipper who is to take over from Jorge when he goes back to Minorca in a few days time, was getting to know the boat. He's a nice guy from Sardinia who is, wisely, easing himself gently into the group of Rapture sailors.

[gilespaxman]

Photos from Fakarava

[gilespaxman]

29 May

We arrived at Fakarvava at dawn: a low sandy strip on the horizon, topped by trees and  framed by a glorious double rainbow. We had timed our arrival to avoid strong tides through the narrow pass into the lagoon but the sea at the entrance was still quite frisky as the sea bottom shelved almost vertically upwards from 200 metres to 20 and the wind and tide fought with each other.  Once inside, the sea flattened, we turned to port past the tiny airport and anchored opposite the small village of Rotoava, just in time for a big fry up!

Here's what the LP has to say: "One of the largest and most beautiful atolls in French Polynesia, Fakarava is the stuff of South Sea fantasy. Heavenly white and pink sand, ruffled coconut trees, and an unbelievable palette of lagoon blues are the norm here."

The atoll is broadly rectangular and some 30 miles from end to end so we cannot see the other side from where we are anchored, along with a few other boats in the North East corner. Nevertheless it is nice to have anything to look at after a few days seeing nothing at all around us but the rolling sea and the sky.

We cleaned up the boat, had a pina colada, a swim and a siesta, and ventured ashore. Rotoava is a pretty lIttle place strung out along the sandy strip between the ocean and the lagoon. A couple of streets. A couple of shops. A couple of churches. A couple of diving shops.Two or three restaurants/ bars catering for tourists.Tin roofed houses with pretty gardens. It's clearly a little more prosperous than the Marquesas, and most of the busineses seem to be run by non-Polynesians. We are currently chilling out in one of the bars on the beach looking out over the turquoise lagoon. Sharks are swimming lazily in the shallow water just below the wooden jetty.  We are not sure what time it is. We think it's a quarter to something but we're not sure what ...

[gilespaxman]

28 May

It looks as though we will be sticking to our original plan and spending a few days in the Tuomotus. We have discovered that there is a sail loft in Papeete so we should be able to get the sail repaired there after we arrive. The downside is that we will not be able to get to Bora Bora as it would be tough and uncomfortable to beat the 100 or so miles back up to Tahiti without a mainsail. For now, with the wind on the beam, we can manage with just the headsails. So we are continuing our stately progress southwards in 15 - 25 knot winds and should arrive in Fakarava tomorrow morning.

The Tuamotus have bitter sweet memories for Marcel, who, as a teenager, was shipwrecked with his parents on a reef on the island of Faite, just south of Fakarava. They lost their boat and had to abandon their itinerant lifestyle and return to Barcelona to earn enough money to buy a new boat..

With the wind on the beam and some large lumpy seas, we are rolling a lot and taking quite a lot of spray over the decks. This means we have to keep the hatches shut and it is sweltering below decks. Being towards the bows and on the port side, my cabin is one of the most vulnerable and at times resembles a sauna. I have developed a technique for going to bed which goes roughly as follows: 1. Rinse off with a tepid shower (there is no cold water in the tanks). 2. Brush teeth. 3. Switch off light (to avoid affecting night vision of those on watch) and open the doors to the heads and my adjoining cabin to allow air to flow through. 4. Stand under hatch in the heads and grasp handles with both hands. 5. Open hatch and let in delicious blast of cool air, listening carefully for the slap of a wave against the hull. Hold open for as long as I dare. 6. Close hatch, leap onto bed, having carefully adjusted the fan to direct air onto my naked body. Leave cabin door open to allow some air to get in and out. (No privacy problems here as Mark has abandoned his cabin right forward, where the movement of the boat makes it impossible to sleep, so I am the only one sleeping forward of the saloon.) Or 6. Get a saltwater shower. Clean up. Go back to step 1. I am getting quite good at it!