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DIFFERENCES BETWEEN A FAST MOVING MACHINE OF FUTURE TRENDS AND THE DARKNESS OF ITS GARAGE. 2013 FURNITURE EXPO & FASHION WEEK IN LITHUANIA.

As a participant, last week I had double dose of contrasting experience from design, furniture and fashion industry in Lithuania.

The future trends become a BIBLE when we are speaking about our private sanctuary – HOME. Customers want to go beyond normal living spaces: it is not only about where they live, it is about how they feel and can reflect their personalities.

What I found here was just a few rigorous insights into home life.

This year marked a realistic wonderland that was more real than ever before. We got to grasp just a little fresh new air into this old fashion vacuum that was condemned for vegetation; stayed hungry for those who don’t want to feel like a baron living in medieval ages. Optimistic mind related with achromatic palette can open the doors for the more interesting future. Photorealistic and totally vintage forms of art will be returning in a big way making its presence felt through colors.

Future interiors are all about using bespoke pieces. The most interesting and surprising changes are happening in kids lifestyle and furniture trends which explore the concept of free play and kinesthetic learning to reflect a more natural child-friendly learning pattern.

For others I would like to wish look beyond the horizon and bring the creativity to the next level. And be...

HISTORIAN

INVENTOR

GEOLOGIST

# HIPSTERIOUS MOMENT ON FASHION INFECTION 2013

Of course it is not Paris or Milan fashion week, but you will never know where the big talents can come especially when it is such a small country and it might be rather easy to start a huge leap towards Paris Milan or New York.

 So this weekend Vilnius the capital of Lithuania was the epicenter of major transformation in trends world.

It is the 15th time when we all professional and upcoming designers as well as fashion – hungry personalities have sacrificed one week for fashion and closing our eyes and start feeling until you start to hear first step on podium.

Of course everyone wants to see the behind the scenes. This is where the magic happens: behind the dark curtains where stress is in the air, new fashion trends are prepared for the podium for the first time.

 Extended adolescent era to the hipsturbia or show off phenomena

Another very important is show off phenomena, where one time in a year fashionistas and fashion fanatics get the possibility to shine and get attention from press, media and other related sources. On the one hand it could be easily considered just another local Lithuanian vanity fair; nonetheless, new trends and innovative forms of fashionable clothing and accessories can be spotted as well as reinvented for a new season.

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"Что есть тенденция or trend is..." by Sara Piccolo Paci - Reading Summary

So when does a BUZZ actually become a trend? What is it that makes a newborn idea an official trend? The interconnection between a trend that transmits into a fashion craze lies in the aspiration to change and to introduce new concepts. In fact, there is only a thin line between evolution and revolution in Fashion.  Be that as it may, collectivist trends are gradually declining.

  According to Sara Piccolo Paci individualism has become one of the major trends giving people the freedom to dress as crazy or as classy as they wish. One could say, there is no definite fashion left. Fashion helps us reinvent ourselves by simply mixing and matching. I think that the driving power behind all change in fashion is the desire to appear more unique than others or maybe it is the narcissistic urge to constantly be better.  Nowadays fashion presents us unlimited variations to satisfy our endless desires for novelties. We either dress to highlight ourselves from our fellow human beings (custom made, Avant-garde & flair) or emphasize equalities.  

  Trends can also be defined as an ongoing cycle of introducing new directions overhauling everyday necessities. Zeitgeist- the spirit of the time and characteristics of the brands do stand way too close with each other; one has to understand both deeply in order to dive into the right spot of contemporary fashion. At the end of the day, human beings are individuals with their own dreams, desires and needs following their inner compasses.  

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'Trend is...' by Sara Piccolo Paci- reading summary

  The reading ‘Trend is…’ written by Sara Piccolo Paci, highlights the most significant and influential developments, that are currently observed in the world of fashion.

In the past 15 years fashion has become a way to express one’s identity rather than consciously following a trend of a decade influenced by political, social or cultural factors. Today’s society got so used to the concept of individualism, that it is reflected in almost every aspect of our lives and in almost every decision we take. This leads to a ‘natural phenomena’ in the fashion industry- for the first time in history every human being can precisely express his/her own identity through fashion, and still be part of a trend at the same time. From the perfect classy women dressing in Dior or Chanel, to the crazy and brave Vivienne Westwood to the dark and ‘chic-gothic’ Gareth Pugh- and the fascinating fact of this decade is that no matter what style one chooses to express, each of the individual is following a certain trend, and is also ‘trendy’ in the time we live in, whether its classy Chanel or gothic, dark and ripped Gareth Pugh.

In this sense one could say that Individualism has led to a complete freedom and no single defined trend of the time. This leaves the fashion designers and fashion merchandisers with a great challenge: to have a deep and clear understanding of the Zeitgeist (the spirit of the time) and the characteristics of the brand they work for, keeping in mind and relating to the client at all times. The brand identity must be strong and consistent with no exception in order to be successful and not to confuse the consumer.

Personally I believe that in the past, fashion brands have created products that were aligned with the current trend of the time, whether it was the feminine flowery look or the shiny and colourful 80’s fashion. They produced what was ‘trendy’ at the time. Today, I would say that a brand creates a dream and a specific world, rather than purely fashion. With the strong influence of individualism on our fashion taste, each of us has a different dream and can immerse into a different world. Designers and brands don’t create and produce what is ‘trendy’ today, but rather give freedom to their creativity and make use of the possibility of expressing it with no limits. And this is only possible nowadays, because there will always be someone who identifies him- or herself with the style. Thanks to individualism.

  Furthermore the globalization and mass-culture our world is currently experiencing, leads to the excess availability of almost everything on the market. Typical and traditional African jewellery for example is no longer only available in Africa. There is nothing one cannot find on the market or buy. Where does this lead us? What is there, that we cannot buy?

The answer to the question may be Time. We learn to appreciate time now more than ever before. Historic and vintage art or fashion pieces that are unique are of immense exclusivity for us. History and heritage may act as a deciding factor for customers to buy certain products. The ‘trend’ and concept of appreciation of heritage even goes that far, that some nationalities that have little or no knowledge at all about the heritage and history of a brand, simply buy the product and spend a fortune for the fact that it is regarded as something precious and exclusive by the rest of the society.

Once again, where will this lead to? Will the appreciation of heritage depreciate due to lack of knowledge or will it gain in importance and value in the future?

In order not to loose the appreciation for heritage, brands could start by educating their consumers about the meaning and value of the heritage. However, I personally believe that this is a great challenge, considering the size of the most profitable market of the luxury industry of the future. A growing middle class with the primary aim of showing as many brands as possible in their outfit to ‘show off a status’, is not the exact consumer behaviour and mentality that is needed to deepen the appreciation of heritage and history. 

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Who is the ultimate rider? - Salvador Dali Exhibition

Limonaia di Palazzo Medici Riccardi -The Dali Universe Exhibition

Salvador Dali, a real genius in surreal art, maestro!

Human being can't rely on the non-dream or real world to show the absolute truth……who is the ultimate rider?

Blogger: Li Fang(Vitela)

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Reading _5b: Deluxe – Dana Thomas

What curious me that the phenomenon of Chinese young generation is crazy for brand logo driven luxury products. What I see from them, they put all logo on their body from the top to bottom. My impression of that sparks my question that: The look enhances the appearance or being?

Dana Thomas’s book named “Deluxe” indicates me why luxury leather products are so popular to appear in the street, because when walk into a luxury brand store anywhere in the world, you’ll find yourself surrounded by handbags and they don’t require sizing or trying on. They’re not like be-spoke suit or shoes require precise measurement on clientele.

Handbags always attract girls eyes on it caused it makes girls more pleasant, make their dream and gives confidence to show neighbors they are doing well.

Karl Lagerfeld once said: Everyone can afford a luxury handbag. But my question is: if so easy to get a luxury bag, luxury would maintain its halo or will lost its luster when it became democratization? Vogue Chief Editor Anna gives her opinion on democratization of luxury, she said: “Some applaud the democratization of luxury; it means more people are going to get better fashion”. And Dana Thomas in her book points out the same comment and said that “Today the luxury industry is like monopoly. The focus is no longer on the art of luxury; it’s on the bottom line.” Found in their point of view, the same indication is that luxury does not equate to luxury fashion.

From my point of view, the real luxury never lost its halo and value. Modern city girls are crazy for luxury entry products; they are most following the advertising on TV and magazine. Yes, that is communication tool from marketing end and more commercial purposed. But once customer him/herself begins to set up their own principal, and it o guide to recognize the value on object which means the market and customer group are getting to transfer from entry to mature level.

To experience luxury refers not to sensations, but to the interactions that humans have with their environments as humans perceive or understand them. Then knowledge represent of experience whatever has been touched the point we feel and think for individual pleasure.

Blogger: Li Fang (Vitela)

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Reading on Trends-2a

The reading looks at the idea of a trend, how trends are spotted, what and who makes the trends etc. The term trend occurred in the past century and it is possible to say that trend making is a kind of art. The main idea is that it seems very simple to create these trends and new styles for the season, but the truth is that only few get a success for the specific trend. The process of creating is always the same, the constant searching, participating in fashion events, fairs, reading books, watching TV, movies, travelling, and observing the life around you, trying to depict colors, shapes and small detail. After this the final stage comes, which will determine the success or failure. Now inner instinct and the Zeitgeist or spirit of time, take its part. These two things are the key to the success if they are captured precisely so that they reflect what is going on in the society and what the customer’s taste is. I think that determining trends is always a risk, because there is no guarantee of the outcome.

 By Barbora Urvalkova

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Reading on How Luxury Lost its Luster

  Luxury is a subjective concept that has no exact definition, upon that most people would agree the universal concept is rarity or uneasy accessibility. In Dana Thomas’ “how luxury lost its luster,” the reading has listed the transformation of luxury fashion industry in different eras and pointed out the risk of losing the luxurious brand values under every kind of evolutions.  In the historical time, luxury products were class or status restricted to those who were domain of rich, and their identities were often defined through the purchase of goods that they could afford. Until the 60s, when demands for civil rights had got recognitions, there were new emerging middle class people who gained spending power, attracting large potential business opportunities for the luxury brands. This provided a change in retailing strategy from departmental stores like Bergdorf Goodman into independent stores or boutiques; also a chance to move oversea into the Asian middle class market in Japan. During that period of time, luxurious dreams had no limits globally, however, the dreams were only belonged to certain people who probably had the spending powers; therefore, it started to develop into the new social trend of desiring for materialistic lifestyle. This gave a signal to the luxury brands companies that expanding their distribution channels by opening more retail stores in major cities can increase their exposure in the market.

            From retail management perspective, location is the most important element to consider, even though “the luxury brands are competitors, they [still] wanted to be together, [in order] to assure a look” of luxurious environment. For instance, in Las Vegas’ famous Strip, the location of most luxurious vacation resorts, this area has created “the dream of space, traffic, and favorable demographics”, because everyone is “indulge[d] themselves in personal pursuits of pleasure” especially, from the idea of Vegas as city of luxurious dreams; therefore shopping in Vegas is like a treat. In the reading, the author compares stores in Vegas are like casinos, where they are more welcoming and the sales clerks are like dealers, who are friendly and take the time to educate you about the products.  From I remember of my personal experience in Vegas, one time after my purchase at Balenciaga, the sales associate had asked for my email, so that she could notify me on new presale products, even when she learned that I was just traveling from oversea. Although from time to time, she would send me emails about private sales, it proved that what happened in Vegas, stayed in Vegas because that in-store experience to me was never the same from any other Balenciaga store around the world.

            With the mass expansions in retail stores, abundant unsold merchandises have created problems and at the same time, they have created another new business transformation of opening shopping outlets. In the past, outlets have been invented for small companies to sell discounted goods to the factory workers; until today, outlets are also for purchase of discounted goods, but for fashion designed merchandises. These outlets have captured a group in the market of those who share the same luxurious dream, but are not able to afford the luxury goods at full selling price; the outlets have served the purpose for the luxury brands to become accessible to everyone. In short term, this strategy has helped to gain profit and may have created the illusion of desiring luxury brands for everyone; however, in long run, this will definitely destroy the brands’ core value of inaccessibility and rarity.

            Entering today’s digital world, luxury brands have faced a new challenge about the risk of opening an ecommerce platform, as if this may dilute its luxurious value or to bring brands beyond a different level. In conclusion, overexposure for a luxury brand can lose its lusters; hence, the sustainability of luxury brands must retrace the roots of humanity, in order to continue its perceived value in eternality. 

  by Melody Hing Yu Tsang

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The jacket - Inside CHANEL (by CHANEL)

be related to Fashion History class also related/inspirations by after visited Costume Gallery

share by Muni LI

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Museo Opificio delle Pietre Dure

The museum is not big and few people visiting but the craftsmanship is incredible,  in the museum you can see semi precious stones, marble, alabaster and those materials that are used for inlaid furniture, landscapes and portaits. The works are displayed in chronological order, the earlest one is from early seventeenth century, and some of the precious stones used to decorate a chapel or for construction used. But it is interesting that picture those butiful objects by using these precious stones, it’s creative, skilful, exquisitely detailed, of course, and priceless.

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Galleria del Costume

I’d like to say it is worth a visit especially for those who are interested in fashion. Costume Gallery located in a building of Pitti Palace, it’s a historic sites, also one of the most celebrated treasures in the city. This gallery with roughly 6,000 pieces, including ancient and modern clothes, accessories and theatrical costumes, features haute couture designs from Valentino, Yves Saint laurent and so on. You can consider it is the only museum of history of fashion in Italy and one of the most important at international level. It displays a wide selection of clothing and accessories from the 18th century to now, which is renewed and replacing the collections exposed with others taken from storage.

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Stibbert Museum

The Stibbert Museum is located on a hill, inside the museum is a little bit dark, so makes all the collections wrapped in mystery. But this museum is absolutely amazing, full of weapons, armour and some weird stuffs, these collections come from all over the world, which included European armoury, Islamic, Japanese armoury, paintings ceramics and some costumes, and the luxurious private apartments, ball room and lounge rooms, empire for the bedrooms. In the Museum surrounding by these shining metallic armour, warriors and horses in full regalia you can imagine you go back to 15th century, sometimes you are in Japan or you are a brave knight riding a horse and there is a dragon you need to kill.

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Fattoria Montagliari - di David Migliorini

For some, wine is solely an alcohol they drink with a meal or during special occasions, for the three of us, it is certainly more than that.

We don't perceive wine as an alcoholic beverage but rather as an exquisite indulgence whose qualities and perfection we experience together. As our families are dedicated wine-connaisseurs we have learnt to appreciate the unique composition of a delicate wine. 

Staying curious in life, is THE key to success. Staying curious for wine, introduces new stories, new traditions and new mutual experiences.

This has made the visit to the 'Fattoria di Montagliari' very fun and enjoyable for us. Even though we have had many bottles of Chianti together over various dinners, we were particularly keen about the history and production process of the wines that the Migliorini family offered in their small/medium company. 

Wine was produced since 1720 on the Montagliari farm, which is the oldest farm in the Chianti area, and bought by Migliorini in 1999.  

David Migliorini introduced us to the process of wine production and different methodology of traditional wine making. For example, wine goes through 2 fermentations; The first lasts about 3 weeks, whereas the second fermentation has a much longer period. For a Chianti Classico Riserva the aging takes up to 2 years. We have learnt that the wine barrels are built from the wood of the surrounding area and saw old traditional casks that were once used for wine-making but today are used solely for storage. 

We had a tour through the different rooms of the wine cellar and were informed thoroughly about which wine was fermented where. The business, who only sells their wines to restaurants, hotels in Italy and has a small distribution in northern Europe and Japan, produces the following products: Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunesco di San Lorenzo, Grappa, Brandy and different kinds of oils. 

"Wine-makers are like chefs, we do have a recipe, however we would like to nourish our creations our way, yet this is not possible due to the regulations, we must adhere to some specific standards", David M. said laughing. 

"Of course, it is not easy to find the right mix, but you should know that 4-6 grapes are mixed to create a typical Chianti wine", he continued pointing us to a new direction in the cellar. The Chianti Classico uses black grapes only, with a minimum base of 80% of Sangiovese (a typical grape of the Chianti area that is called the "base"). 

The company produces 40-50% of Chianti Classico, 30 % Riserva and the rest is dedicated to Brunesco di San Lorenzo which has a high level of IGT and is the exquisite wine in the company. 

The visit would have not been complete without actually tasting the different kinds of wine  with traditional tuscan antipasti. We enjoyed the Brunesco wine extensively. It was a strong, full body wine with a lot of character. 

This is solely a very petite summary of a very nice and relaxing day with the class! I think we all really enjoyed this visit and learnt something new today. 

Thank you. 

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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL - FIRENZE

Where do I begin? Four Seasons, Firenze, is modern luxury in the heart of Renaissance. – The intimate sense of history.

Fabulous renaissance decor, gorgeous gardens, a great pool, chandeliers – a truly sublime hotel. The aesthetics and design of the hotel are simply palatial. It is built in the renovated Palazzo Della Gherardesca and its Convent, former Palace of the Medici. The entire property is a nice ornate restoration and enhancement of a Florentine Palazzo.

Nowadays, many luxury hotels loose their identity and their connection to their city in the pursuit of “standard” luxury services. However, Four Seasons Firenze never appears as generic. The entire atmosphere transfers you to the splendor of Renaissance Firenze at every turn.

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Gonelli Casa D’Aste

When entering Gonelli, already in the first second I felt that there is something special and deep about this place. It is definitely not an ordinary book store- but a place that transmits a historical ambience and deep history and passion for books. The carelessness about the interior design and the decoration along with the so obvious focus on the perfect arrangement and hence dominance of the books over the decoration was something that I really enjoyed about Gonelli.

Finding out that it is a library, a publisher and an auction house all at the same time has further confirmed my feelings.

During the visit I have learned a lot about how the quality of paper was different depending on the time the book was printed in, what certain properties of books symbolize and what it is that makes a book so valuable.

My personal highlight was to see how passionate a person can be about books. A talk that was initially supposed to be a quick overview of the location and a briefing about the books (30 mins) turned out an incredibly deep and interesting talk that lasted longer than an hour. The value and history of some of the books presented were breathtaking- a pile of 4 books, all together worth more than 150,000 Euros.

  Learning about such rare and old books was very inspiring for me, since I was introduced into topics that I would personally never look into. I am very thankful that I was able to get some insights into world. 

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FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO PRE/FALL 2013 - white on white to perfection

SOFTNESS THAT SINKS INTO FEMININITY BUILT UPON A GAME OF CONTRACTS...OF POWER AND SENSIBILITY….

  FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO IS NO LONGER A NEWCOMER, ACCODRING TO HIM BRITISH SOCIALITE IS HIS MUSE. WITH HIS FALL COLLECTION HE INTRODUECED A PARADE OF MOSTLY BLACK&WHITE LOOKS, WHICH EXPLAINS THE VAGUELY 1940-ISH SHAPES. VARIATIONS OF RUFFLED BLOUSES WITH WIDE PANTS & FUR COLLARED COATS.  SILHOUETTES ARE BEING KEPT CLEAN AND SLEEK, WITH MINIMAL EMBELISHMENTS

.  The above blog entry replaces Pitti Filatti 2013

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M.S.G.M PRE/FALL 2013 - DARE WITH STYLE

PLAYFUL, IRONIC, TOUCHY, CLASSIC, BABY – PINK COTTON & PADDED CAMOUFLAGE. M.S.G.M PRE FALL ’13 COLLECTION IS ALL ABOUT A THRIUMPH, THRIUMPH OF PRINTS. THEY CAN BE SPOTTED ON COATS, SWEATERS – ALL THAT-  FILLED WITH HORSES WITH WINGS, ANIMAL PRINTS, GEOMETRIC ELEMENTS & WHITE ROSES.  

[MASSIMO GIORGETTI IS FOR SURE ABLE TO MIX&MATCH HIS PASSION AND ARTISTIC EXPRESSIONS.]

Kaleidoscope world made of colors, shapes and lines capable of inexorably catching the public interest and attention. HIS COLLECTION IS VERY MATURE BUT AT THE SAME TIME FRESH AND APPEALING, A COLLECTION THAT SHOWS SOME LEG WITHOUT BEING VULGAR.

The above blog entry replaces Pitti Filatti 2013

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PHILIPP PLEIN FALL 2013 - UNLEASH YOUR INNER BEAST

MINIMALISM (?) – MORE IS MORE IN THE GRANDIOUS WORLD OF MR PHILIPP.

"...WHERE THE ROAD TO SPORTSWEAR AND TO A SHAMELESS LUXURY MEET.”  

THIS FALL PHILIPP PLEIN GETS MILITANT ABOUT FASHION.  THE COLLECTION FEATURES BROAD RANGE OF COATS & JACKETS, FROM BOMBER TO BIKER. EXPECT PHYTHON LEATHER JACKETS TO BE WORN OVER JOGGING PANTS WITH CAMOUFLAGE PRINTS, GOLD, SKULLS AND STUDS. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS MINIMALISM. HE COMBINES FASTIDIOUS MATERIALS IN EXECPTIONAL QUALITY WITH A HINT OF MILITARY. 

FABRICS: WOOL, PYTHON, AND CROCODILE

COLOURS: GRAY, BLACK, ARMY GREEN, BLUE & RED.

 DO YOU LIKE EXTRAORDINARY? WOULD YOU LIKE TO BREAK AWAY FROM THE NORM?  MAKE YOUR INNER DESIRES BECOME REALITY – LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO BE INSIGNIFICANT.

The above blog entry replaces Pitti Filatti 2013