streetcode101

[streetcode101]

The History of Jerseys and Streetwear

While sports merchandise is popular among many collectors and sports fans, jerseys have become a ongoing classic for streetwear. Since the 1980s, many people have been wearing sports jerseys for numerous reasons and occasions, but streetwear has always stayed true to this tradition, and styles from then still appear today.

To give a brief backstory on the history of sports merchandise before the 1980s, many sports fans couldn’t get or didn’t think they would ever be able to get a jersey from their favorite team or player. If you ever watched a sports game from the 60s or 70s, many people dressed in formal attire, and only a handful of people in the stands owned maybe a hat, t-shirt, or jacket from their favorite team. For example, below are two hockey goalie pictures, one was taken during the mid 1970s, the other is from this year. Notice the attire of the fans in the background.

A lot more jerseys in the bottom photo huh? So now you’re thinking, how did this trend of wearing jerseys evolve from? Ironically, it happened on accident.

Then in the 1980s, on Broad Street in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, a small boutique outfitter named Mitchell and Ness released “The Cooperstown Collection”. It was a small collection of vintage baseball jerseys and apparel that used many of the same materials and stitching as jerseys used back from early 20th century baseball. The collection was primarily intended to be sold to niche markets, such as collectors and rich people who got the jerseys autographed and framed.

Towards the end of the 1980s and into the 1990s, popularity of sports jerseys in streetwear spread like wildfire. Rappers and Hip Hop artists were the earliest adopters, primarily since these jerseys sold for upwards of $150 dollars and was another cool way for them to flash their wealth to people.  

As such, more fans of sports teams wore them to games, pickup basketball stars wore them in the parks, and the super-cool kids would wear them to parties. Emergence of star athletes such as Michael Jordan, Wayne Gretzky, and Bo Jackson also helped popularized the need for jerseys. Even R&B singer Aaliyah made it cool for women to rock this new trend.

The benefit of rocking a jersey is used to be a focal point of an outfit, and since jerseys are made of lightweight, polyester materials, they can be layered and worn over other articles of clothing. During the summertime, basketball jerseys have become a popular alternative to tank tops, and people in warmer climates as well as skateboarders like them for the functionality. 

So as the more macho-oriented 90s mentality replaced the 80s carefree style trends, basketball jerseys became an acceptable tank-top option for most men to feel comfortable wearing. "Sure, I may be half naked and showing off all my arms but ... SPORTZ!"

Anyone remember this photo below? Sports jerseys have made their way on some iconic people and popularized events.

Sports jerseys continued to be common articles of clothing into the 2000s. However there was a brief moment a few years ago where wearing jerseys in streetwear was slowly declining. Jay Z, a rapper who was one of the early adopters of jerseys, stated in his 2009 song “On To The Next One”, he states “Used to rock a throwback, ballin on the corner, now I rock a tailored suit, lookin like a owner”. Many people around this time chose to wear more designer brands and keep their sports team apparel limited.

But jerseys stayed around, with more sports fans emerging, and brands like Mitchell and Ness choosing to keep selling new retro sports jerseys, more and more people turn to jerseys as an iconic classic in streetwear. Nowadays, with the heavy influence of the early 2000s in fashion today, designers such as Takashi Murakami, Nigo, and Don C teamed up with Mitchell and Ness to put their own personal touch on throwback jerseys. 

Hip hop artists are heavily influencing jerseys these days. Whether it be the late Nipsey Hu$tle rocking his Lakers jersey courtside or Tory Lanez, who credits his inspiration for his new project, Chixtape 5, to 2000-2006 style, as he wears hockey jerseys for his photoshoots. Many in streetwear continue the love and support for jerseys.

The proof is in the pudding, jerseys are here to stay. While streetwear is ever-evolving, jerseys from all sports will keep being sold to fans and collectors alike. It’s been proven that even when jersey sales are on the decline, the market is still there. And even if you may not be able to afford the latest hot jersey on the market, many resellers make it easy for people to get their favorite jersey. So no matter how old, new, expensive, or cheap a jersey is, the tradition of wearing one is timeless.

Sources: 

https://bleacherreport.com/articles/1627272-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-basketball-jersey-as-mainstream-fashion

https://www.instagram.com/torylanez/?hl=en

https://www.complex.com/style/2019/10/takashi-murakami-los-angeles-lakers-merch-complexcon-long-beach

https://www.reddit.com/r/hockey/comments/17ggys/why_dont_rappers_wear_hockey_jerseys_anymore/

https://www.sbnation.com/2017/10/5/16203806/nba-throwback-jerseys-jay-z-nelly

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/71846556526126489/

https://www.fivefifthsculture.com/blog/category/Nostalgia

https://uni-watch.com/2014/08/22/the-1990-mitchell-ness-nostalgia-co-catalog/

http://www.austinsiegel.me/home/2019/5/12/cam-ward-relives-winter-classic-goosebumps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X80oBQccg7E

https://fashionmagazine.com/fashion/celebrity-sports-jersey-outfits/

https://www.vibe.com/2019/05/drake-trolls-warriors-steph-curry-father-jersey

https://theundefeated.com/features/nipsey-hussle-loved-the-culture-and-basketball-was-his-favorite/

[streetcode101]

Japan Loves Fashion too

Next stop Japan! Paris maybe elegant and graceful but Japan will bring the fearless out of you. With their bold accessories and unique matching of prints. Stylist and editors such as Tae Ashida, Hyke and Kozburo are a few to name have shown the beauty of Japan fashion.

It was in the 1970′s when people started expressing themselves in fashion. Due to American universities, student were influences to stand out counterculture. The DC influenced was the first fashion trend to originate in Japan rather then the Americas.

[streetcode101]

Clarks Originals Wallabees: A Streetwear Staple

When we think of streetwear, especially street footwear, moccasins and chukka boots are not the first items to get mentioned. However the Wallabee has always been different, and has stood out as a shoe people in streetwear have come to love.

What started out as an idea William Clark had back in the 1880s, the Wallabees were first introduced in the 1960s as a comfortable, everyday, unisex moccasin with a crepe sole.

The Wallabees became a staple footwear piece worldwide, predominantly popular among school preps and older markets. During the 1990s popular music stars started sporting these classic shoes, however it wasn’t until a rap group from New York called “The Wu-Tang Clan” started wearing and included the Wallabees in their lyrics.

Many others in hip hop and in streetwear have shown mutual support for the Wallabees, as popular hip hop artists such as Kanye West and Drake. Clarks has even reached out to British rapper DOOM to do a collaboration since he advocates the Wallabees highly. 

Many streetwear brands nowadays have teamed up with Clarks to put their own personal aesthetic on the Wallabees. Brands such as Supreme, Stüssy, Drake’s clothing line October’s Very Own, and Wu-Tang’s clothing line Wu-Wear, have made their own pair of Wallabees. As this shoe gains more popularity among everyone in streetwear, it’s inevitable these moccasins will remain classics in the streetwear market. 

The Wallabees still remain a cult classic after almost 30 years in streetwear, and more and more streetwear brands continue to collaborate with Clarks Originals to create their own version of these comfortable cult classics. These moccasins have come a long way since their initial release on the market, and many, including William Clark, couldn't imagine the street influence these would create.

Sources:

https://footwearnews.com/2018/focus/sneakers/drake-ovo-clarks-wallabee-release-info-1202554778/

https://thesource.com/2019/05/27/supreme-clarks-originals-wallabee-collection/

https://hypebeast.com/2015/12/stussy-x-clarks-wallabee

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2520845/Kanye-West-claims-risks-life-like-police-officer-soldier-war-onstage.html

https://www.reddit.com/r/streetwear/comments/4tkpf9/w2c_the_jakcet_shoes_on_drake/

https://www.hanon-shop.com/blogs/news/clarks-originals-x-mf-doom-wallabee-mid

https://www.allsole.com/blog/style/clarks-wallabees-hip-hops-unsung-icon/

[streetcode101]

Street Style comes in Plus Size !

Plus size has always been the most difficult size to find fashionable. There has always been a lack of variety. Basic tees and leggings for the most part is the standard clothing in companies to buy for plus size. However it is now 2019. Thanks to Riri and Prettylittlethings, plus size now has a fashion sense.In fact  having a curvy body was the most attractive ideal body up to the 1800′s. However as the industry manufactures started taking place, sizes became limited. It was not until  1904 when Lena Bryant created the first exclusive plus size retailer that plus size became sexy again.

During the Vietnam war in the 1960′s women started the ‘fat acceptance movement’. In the 80′s brands started creating size 14 and up including Valentino and Givenchy due to the decline of luxury sales.

BBW now Mode was the first magazine to be dedicated to plus size as a target market.

https://www.bustle.com/p/the-history-of-plus-size-street-style-from-the-people-who-made-it-happen-18684899

https://www.dia.com/blog/know/plus-size-fashion-history/

https://thecurvyfashionista.com/plus-size-street-style-nyfw-2/

[streetcode101]

The Androgyny of Streetwear

Gender norms and standards were heavily enforced in the 20th century especially when it came to what women could wear. However, as women and gay rights’ have reformed so has fashion acceptance. Particularly in streetwear culture, women are seen wearing clothes and shoes from the same collections as men today.

When I hear the terms “streetwear” and “androgyny” in the same breath, style influencer and designer Aleali May can’t help but come to mind. The LA native, is the first woman to ever  design and drop a unisex sneaker for Jordan. It’s no question that her style is impeccable, but when you scroll through the influencer’s instagram you can see her wearing pants from brands such as  99percentis, Kam Vercetti, and Louie Vuitton shirts from Virgil Abloh’s mens collection.  All this to say… has fashion come full circle? Is streetwear finally ready for women? It seems that way.

For the longest, streetwear brands only catered to men, not that women weren’t interested, but nothing came in a  size small enough to fit. Even today, Nike still releases some shoes in only mens sizes 7+. However, it appears that the streetwear market is expanding, and so is the acceptance of seeing women on the red carpet in sneakers and wearing the same clothing as men across the world. Today, fashion has become gender fluid; Androgyny is seen as a new norm and we don’t see it changing back anytime soon ever.  

https://www.vogue.com/article/street-style-tribes-of-2017-top-trends-streetwear-demna-gvasalia-suits

https://sneakernews.com/2017/10/24/aleali-may-air-jordan-1-satin-corduroy-release-info/

https://www.brownsfashion.com/

https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/streetwear-women-opportunity-designers-market-aries-danielle-cathari-aleali-may

instagram.com/alealimay

www.stockx.com

[streetcode101]

The Resale of Streetwear

With streetwear emerging as an exciting direct-to-consumer market, many third party individual resellers and platforms have made streetwear a highly desirable market. Many of these resellers will often buy direct from consumer, post merchandise to a resale platform such as StockX, Grailed, or eBay, and will heighten the price of the merchandise posted, creating a profit for the seller, but also making the merchandise highly more desirable for customers. 

People waiting outside the Supreme store in New York

With sneakers being the origin of streetwear resale, eventually high desirable brands like Supreme, Raf Simmons, Fear of God, a bathing ape, and many others flooded the resale markets. When customers wait in line, buy raffle tickets, or gain access to exclusive streetwear merchandise, the value of that particular item increases. After the initial “drop”, prices of the items increases, increasing demand and exclusivity for each item. 

JSP, abbreviated for Jimmy Sweatpants, is a premium sweatpants brand focusing on the streetwear market. With their recent collaboration with Lapstone and Hammer, a streetwear store in Philadelphia, many of the items purchased at the store flooded resale markets. This is an eBay search for the items. Hoodies on JSP’s affiliate website Standard Issue Tees retail for $110.00 and tees go for $30.00. As you can see, resellers increase prices accordingly.

According to a survey done by Hypebeast, one third of streetwear shoppers (28%) shop on resale sites. Both digital and physical multi-brand retailers carry less weight than direct brand stores. Many streetwear brands exclusively sell their product, meaning other retailers - with the exception of secondhand platforms - carry little importance in snapping up the latest release. Which means, streetwear retailers with the high demanded merchandise people want, can guarantee their items selling.

Highsnobiety’s view on the resale breakdown of streetwear items, as well as estimated profits for resellers.

Sorces:

https://www.monsterchildren.com/39207/supreme-nyc/

https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/5gq393/supreme-and-the-psychology-of-brand-devotion

https://www.lsnglobal.com/news/article/21392/wealthsimple-wants-to-make-supreme-resellers-rich

https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/06/01/supreme-reselling-become-a-millionaire/

http://strategyand.hypebeast.com/streetwear-report

[streetcode101]

Street style hits New York Fashion Week

Street style has been a tickle down effect in the fashion industry. Various fashion designers have used style that have been considered aesthetic into a higher end quality. Street style has become popular over the years and it has also been one of the easiest follows through with students. Although various designers such as Michael Kors,Oscar de La Renta and Gabriela Hearst ran the runway, influencers outside are also bring new fashion trends in for the upcoming season.

It is slightly distinguishable as the inspiration of street style arrives to the runway. The picture shows an inspiration done by Micheal Kors in the runway for Spring/Summer 2020.

New York fashion week attracts international street style from London to New York. It is the most symbolic destination for influencers to be all in one place.  Its unpredictable what these influencers will wear, from haute couture to vintage clothing picked from their grandmother. There is vibrant skirts, shredded inside out jeans to dainty earrings.

Sources 

https://fashionista.com/2019/09/best-new-york-fashion-week-street-style-spring-2020#&gid=ci025065c7300127e9&pid=new-york-fashion-week-street-style-spring-2020-day-6-33 

https://fashionista.com/2019/09/beauty-hair-makeup-street-style-nyfw-spring-2020#&gid=ci0250d1f3a0002413&pid=nyfw-spring-2020-beauty-street-style-14

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g28955985/new-york-fashion-week-spring-2020-street-style/

https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/new-york-fashion-week-street-style?page=4 

[streetcode101]

The Evolution of Streetwear.

Streetwear has emerged into a much more popular category of fashion over the last decade. Where as it was once upon a time seen as a casual and unkept style of dress, we are seeing major companies and brands such as Vetements, Prada, Helmut Lang, Louis Vuitton and Gucci (just to name a few) embrace this culture within their own brands; using it in either their own designs or collaborating with some of todays hottest leading streetwear brands.

Of course it didn’t start with the big boys. Streetwear has been around since before it had an official name. Styles dating back to the early 90’s skate and hip hop culture, are seen resurfacing into todays trends: like baggy clothes, bucket hats and bold colors; Which can be spotted regularly all over the world in the streets or the runway. Essentially streetwear is a byproduct of the culture.

In its early days, brands like Stüssy and Roc-A-Wear pushed streetwear towards a more mainstream culture. But in the following years it was the brand Supreme, founded in 1994 that launched the trend even further. A household name today, Supreme started small in New York City. Through out the years they’ve expanded their market by collaborating with brands such as North Face, Fila, Bathing Ape and Nike—all different target markets around the world. But what solidified Supreme’s high status was their most recent collaboration with Louis Vuitton.

Needless to say the collection payed off for both companies. Propelling LV to bring on Virgil Abloh, founder of high end street wear OFF WHITE as their men’s creative director. Virgil’s play on iridescent and bright colors along with LV’s monogram pattens has attracted an entirely new market to the brand and let’s just say others are catching on. From the 90’s to now streetwear and its acceptance has evolved and expanded, and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.

Sources:

https://hypebeast.com/brands/prada

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a14427661/gucci-yankees-hats/

https://www.gq.com/story/jonah-hill-mid-90s-skate-style

https://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/01/22/shawn-stussy-biography/

https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/06/15/supreme-clothing-brand-collaboration-list/

https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/hip-hop-style/

https://www.vogue.com/article/virgil-abloh-louis-vuitton-paris-spring-2019-menswear-fashion-week-dev-hynes-steve-lacy-playboi-carti-kanye-west-kid-cudi