#Dextron

[gujaratambujaexport]

Dextrose Monohydrate Manufacturers, Exporter & Seller in India - GAEL

Dextrose Monohydrate Manufacturers, Exporter & Seller in India - GAEL

Dextrose Monohydrate Powder (DMH), a product of dextron manufacturers, is moderately sweet, being 65-70% as sweet as sucrose. It offers a less viscous solution compared to Liquid Glucose and is freely soluble in water at room temperature, and in boiling alcohol. When blended with sucrose, the perceived sweetness can match that of sucrose. DMH has a significant freezing point depression compared to cane sugar, enhancing the texture of frozen food products for a smoother, creamier result. Its bulk density ranges from 0.65 to 0.70 kg/cc.

Features of Dextrose Monohydrate Powder

Sweetness: Moderately sweet, about 65-70% as sweet as sucrose.

Solubility: Freely soluble in water at room temperature and in boiling alcohol.

Viscosity: Less viscous solution compared to Liquid Glucose.

Freezing Point Depression: Greater depression of freezing point than cane sugar, enhancing the texture of frozen products.

Bulk Density: Ranges from 0.65 to 0.70 kg/cc.

Form: White, odorless, crystalline granules with a bland, sweet taste.

Applications: Widely used in the food industry for its texture and sweetness properties.

As a food-grade product, Dextrose Monohydrate is a purified, crystallised form of D-glucose containing one molecule of water of crystallisation. It appears as white, odourless, crystalline granules with a bland and sweet taste, making it ideal for various food applications. The total production capacity for DMH is 165 MT/Day, with manufacturing plants located in Himmatnagar, Sitarganj, Hubli, and Chalisgaon, under the Starch division.

Uses of Dextrose Monohydrate Powder

Food and Beverage Industry: Used as a sweetener in baked goods, confectionery, and beverages. It enhances flavour, provides energy, and improves texture in products like candies, cakes, and ice creams.

Pharmaceuticals: Serves as a carrier for drugs, a sweetening agent in syrups, and in intravenous solutions to provide immediate energy.

Medical Nutrition: Administered in medical settings for patients requiring rapid glucose replenishment, such as those with hypoglycemia.

Sports and Energy Products: Used in energy drinks and supplements to provide quick energy boost and improve athletic performance.

Fermentation: Acts as a carbon source in microbial fermentation processes for producing various products, including alcohol and antibiotics.

FThis extensive production capability and strategic plant locations ensure a reliable supply chain, meeting the demands of diverse food industry applications. The dextron manufacturer's commitment to quality and consistency makes DMH a preferred choice for food formulators seeking to enhance product texture and sweetness while maintaining quality and efficiency in their production processes.

For More Information 

Ambuja Tower”, Opp.Sindhu Bhavan, Sindhu Bhavan Road, Bodakdev, P.O. Thaltej Ahmedabad 380054.

 info@ambujagroup.com

 export@ambujagroup.com(Export Inquiries)

 jayvijay@ambujagroup.com(Investors Only)

 7961556678

https://www.ambujagroup.com/product/dextrose-monohydrate-2/

[disease-danger-darkness-silence]

Things I need to fix on my car

(Best case scenario | Worst-case Scenario) This is all based on whether I am physically capable of the work involved, and whether I have the tools to do the job. My car is the 2014 Chevy Impala. The 2006 Kia Rio5 I'm giving to my daughter, although that needs some work too. IMPORTANT STUFF IS MARKED WITH AN ASTERISK * The two most important for the Impala are the ABS sensors and new tires, honestly.

* ABS sensor and wire replacement on wheels: ($20 | $100) I may be able to fix this for almost no cost, if the sensor and sensor wire are OK, but I'd have to get some steel hangar strapping ($9) and figure out how to best secure it away from the axle, because that's what keeps wearing out the ABS sensor wires.

* New tires: ($500 | $750) Mine are falling apart. I could get some used ones for $200 but then they'd need replacement again in 6 months.

Windshield: (Free | $225) I have a resin kit to fix the chip/s in the windshield, but the entire thing is really pitted and I think it may crack this winter, regardless of a fix.

Fix wiring on side-windows: ($45| $200) If I can get a trim-pull kit ($21, or $40 with a big set of clips), I can probably just fix the wiring myself with a soldering iron and some replacement door clips ($6). If not I need a body professional to do it.

* Radiator drain and fill: ($45 | $200) I'm pretty sure I can do this myself. I need a fuck-ton of distilled water ($2), a bunch of radiator cleaner ($10), an oil pan to hold the old antifreeze in ($15), and winter antifreeze mix ($15). But if I can't, I need to take it in to a mechanic.

* Transmission drain and fill: ($175 | $1000) Also pretty sure I can do this myself. Transmission seal ($14), sealing oil pan ($15), transmission fluid (dextron 6, 5.3 qts, $35/gal), transmission filter ($28), transmission gasket ($9) and grease ($2). The biggest expense will be a new torque wrench (~$50), as mine died. Still cheaper than a transmission tune-up from a pro.

* Oil change: (75$ | $90+tip) Can definitely do this myself but I don't know that I wanna because laying under the car hurts my back a lot. Same with the other stuff. Blegh. Oil pan ($15), oil (full synthetic 5W-30, 6 qts, $7.50/qt or $28/5 qt), oil filter ($7), drain plug gasket ($15). Need a torque wrench for this, too.

Tune-up: ($124 | $250) I for sure can do this myself, basically just need to change the spark plugs. My car takes extra-special iridium plugs so it'll be a little pricy for six of them ($11x6). Need to get cabin ($24) and engine air ($24) filters, and a fuel filter ($10), too.

Fix bumper: ($30/$70 | $300) I'm pretty sure I can do this myself but I need spare clips ($6) and some filament ($15) for my 3D pen my sister got me. I also need to find said pen, or buy a new one ($40). And I need some sturdy, different-grit automotive sandpaper ($8).

Paint touch-ups: ($69 | $500) Car paint is expensive. I'd need automotive primer and the paint itself, and a topcoat, or have a pro do it. It's oddly important because it keeps it from rusting. I can get a kit in my car's color (WA636R) for ($69).

Wind deflectors for windows: ($65 | $) Pretty sure I can install these myself. If not I have to have a body shop do it and idk that I care enough. It would help with retaining heat in the winter and cool in the summer.

* Windshield wipers: ($52 | $92) Definitely can install these myself, it just depends on what brand is available when I go in for them - cheapest 22" driver's side is showing for $23 at Autozone, and 21" passenger side is showing $23 as well. Also need winter-rated window wash fluid ($5).

Detailing ($175 | $450) I can either do this myself by purchasing some things, or I can pay someone to do it for me. Things would be: drill wet-sanding kit ($19), drill brush cleaning kit ($36), upholstery cleaner ($19), upholstery protectant ($17), interior cleaner ($12), headlight cleaner ($20), protectant ($25). I already have a steamer, drill, and wet/dry shop vac (although there's a bomb accessory kit I wanna get regardless for $27). Either way, the car needs to be deep-cleaned, inside and out. It's bad. Although, now that I think about it, if I invested $300 in equipment (better steamer, larger chemicals, power washer) and chemicals, I could do detailing for friends and family and get my money back fairly quick, and I need to detail the Kia for Adrienne anyway.... Hm.

Things I need to do for the Kia for Adrienne

* Remove old bearings and install new ones. (Already have bearings and tools, just no hand strength to remove bearings. Need biiiig mallet.)

* Polish and fix headlights. (Need polish and some more UV resin, as well as bulbs.)

Get quote from fast glass about rear windows, or make a better mold of the rear windows and make better resin replacements.

* Pull oil pan and replace plug. (Have plug already, need impact wrench flex set).

* Change oil and oil filter. (Need oil and filter.)

* Change engine air filter. (Have filter.)

* Fix locks and handles. (Need trim pulling kit and spare clips.)

Deep-clean. (Need detailing kit, turtle wax, rainx, and dent-puller.)

* Fix windshield (either resin kit or replacement windshield).

* Find key and copy. Look into if it'll take a fob.

Alignment and struts.

Fix the pull for popping the hood.

Tires possibly.

Transmission, radiator, and engine flush.

* Fuel filter and cabin air filter.

Possibly paint to fix any rusting that may be occurring.

* Battery needs to be charged and possibly replaced.

[superrobotmonkeyteamramblingsgo]

HEY GUYS REMEMBER WHEN I DID A SIX RM OC REQUEST THING?

Not only was the shows 16th anniversary on the 18th, but so was this blog’s one year anniversary on the 13ths! (as well as my one year anniversary at work on the 16th, so it was a very busy week XD) So what better way to celebrate by finally finishing the request from back in...April...

...where did the summer go?

Well, here we are, the barrel of monkey requests! I actually only got five requests, so the sixth one was a bonus gift art. In order we have:

@netbug009 Astro

@ccbeth98 Rhombus

@happyfroglegs Jubilee

@ar-blackshaw Dextron

@monkeyinaround Dina 

and bonus @projectaffectivity Julia since it was the least I could do since I messed up her cloth last time I drew her XD

Thanks for your patience everyone, and for letting me practice with your OC’s!If any of you want a higher quality pic of your OC, let me know! I hope this is a great fall surprise for all of you!

And happy (late) anniversary to Super Robot Monkey Team Hyperforce Go and its wonderful fandom!

[forwardassistmechanics-blog]

L480E transmission replacement

L480E replacement and preparation (2007 Chevy 1500 HD Classic 6.0L or similar) “THIS POST IS NOT COMPLETE, PICTURES AND REINSTALL WILL BE ADDED SOON”     1. Find proper L480E for your specific application. A Re-manufactured Transmission is suggested due to the extra TSB repairs and modifications completed by Reman facilities, Generally Rebuilt transmissions have a Shorter warranty as compared to…

[tyd13]

Hey guys the pictures I have posted are from a friend who just recently started Tumblr,Andru -Dextron.

[doxalubes]

How to Choose the Proper Automatic Transmission Fluid

Choosing the right automatic transmission fluid (ATF) can be a difficult task. It's not always evident whether or not an ATF is suitable for your vehicle. Getting the appropriate one is important since using the wrong one might harm the transmission. As a result, some background knowledge may be beneficial.

Automatic transmission fluids contain specific friction coefficients,viscosities, and additives. ATFs are designed to operate with certain automatic transmission designs. They aren't all created equal. Furthermore, using a fluid that is not recommended by the vehicle manufacturer will void the transmission warranty if your vehicle is still under warranty.

How are ATFs produced?

Automobile manufacturers create automatic transmission fluids, or at the very least set standards for them. However, automobile manufacturers do not produce ATF. Petroleum firms are in charge of this. They make ATF using a formula of basic oils and additives devised by the vehicle manufacturer and licensed to the oil company. The oil company can also utilize the automaker's unique ATF brand name as part of the licensing fee. Dexron, Mercon, and ATF+4 are the most prevalent names, which are brand names for GM, Ford, and Chrysler fluids, respectively.

However, whenever a new ATF is launched, automakers normally stop licensing existing ATF formulas. In recent years, all of the major automakers have produced entirely synthetic ATFs, which have mostly replaced traditionally based ATFs. The new ATF can be used in vehicles that were initially provided with the previous ATF formulation. Alternatively, the old ATF can be replaced with a fluid that an oil company says fulfils the original car manufacturer's specifications for the old formula ATF.

Oil companies, on the other hand, aim to simplify the old formula ATFs. Rather than using the automobile manufacturer's exact formula, petroleum companies attempt to create a single fluid that fulfils the original criteria of multiple distinct manufacturers. These are ATFs that may be used in a variety of vehicles. A fluid that claims to fulfil both Dexron-IlI ATF and Mercon V requirements is an example.

Choosing the Right Automatic Transmission Fluid

Consult the owner's handbook for a good place to start. It will indicate if Dextron or Mercon transmission fluid is required. It's critical to read and follow the owner's instructions. Some imports, for example, will not take Mercon and will instead demand brand-specific fluid.

When it came to automatic transmission fluid, there were just two options: Type F or Dexron. There are several solutions available nowadays. This is because automakers are attempting to improve their vehicles' fuel efficiency by developing lubricants to fulfil a variety of needs. That's why you need to be cautious about the fluid you use, since the improper one might cause your engine to fail in a variety of ways.

When selecting a lubricant for your performance vehicle, bear the following in mind:

Car Age

If you own a classic automobile, be sure the fluid you choose is compatible with it. You must be extremely cautious while using newer fluids because they were not designed with your vehicle in mind. The GM 4L60E, for example, is believed to operate well with Dexron VI. However, because that fluid wasn't invented until 2005, you'd be better off sticking with Dexron-IlI ATF.

Fluid Types, Brands

You might assume that if you drive a Ford automobile, you can only use Ford fluids in it. In reality, this isn't the case. You could be better off using a different kind of fluid altogether in some circumstances. Because the brand isn't 'right,' don't be blinded to the best options.

Avoid Universal Fluids

To clear up any ambiguity, several businesses are developing universal automatic transmission fluids that may be used in any vehicle. However, if you're driving a high-performance vehicle, you should avoid them. Stick to a single-purpose fluid you're confident will function in your vehicle.

Synthetic Fluid vs. Conventional Fluid

Car owners must also decide whether to use synthetic or traditional transmission fluid. Synthetic fluid is more expensive, but it performs better and lasts longer at greater temperatures. On some older versions of automobiles, though, it's really preferable to use traditional fluid - especially if synthetic has never been introduced. Making the swap may cause more harm than good, resulting in costly transmission repairs.

Choose Doxa Dexron-IlIATF&Full Synthetic Transdex ATF

Doxa Dexron-IlI ATF is basicallya multipurpose, high-performance fluid. It has been designed to meet the criteria of Ford Mercon,General Motors Dexron-III, and Allison C-3 or C-4. It has high friction resistance and oxidation stability, allowing for constant and smooth power transfer.On the other hand, Doxa Full Synthetic Transdex ATF is highly suggested for all vehicles that require Mercon/Dexron III or Allison TES 468 and TES 295 ATFs, including garbage trucks and buses.Because of its excellent thermal and oxidative stability, the viscosity remains nearly constant, preventing deposits and oil thickening, extending transmission life and preventing improper gear changes.Under all situations, excellent transmission cleanliness allows for longer oil drain and less maintenance.It offers excellent temperature reduction due to reduced friction results in longer oil and component life, as well as longer drain times and less maintenance.

[indmarparts]

Indmar SKI-V ZF -DRIVE, Valvoline ATF Transmission Fluid Dextron Mercron III, Indmar Part # 902020 or S902020, Drive 1.46 for 5.7L, This Unit is not able to be separated., Fittings, sensors, motor mounts, fluid, etc all sold separate, It is suggested to replace the drive plate when replacing a transmission (especially if there was a impact).   http://bit.ly/2NnvuOs

[djhungama]

O Beta Ji Remix - DJ Dextron Full Video: https://youtu.be/05cYTsriOLs Download: http://bit.ly/2P5a3qK Subscribe Us: http://bit.ly/2JLbWT9 DJ Dextron Remix Collections: http://djhungama.in/artist/dj-dextron #QismatKiHawaKabhiNaram​ #OBetajiOBabuji​ #DJDextron​ #OBetaJiRemix2021​ #DJHungama​ #LUDORemix​ #BollywoodRemix​ #RetroRemix​ #PankajTripathi​ #AbhishekBachchan​ #AdityaRoyKapur​ #RajkummarRao​ #RohitSaraf​ #FatimaSanaSheikh​ #SanyaMalhotra​ #PearleMaaney​ #InayatVerma​ #AshaNegi​ #shalinivatsa (at Ahmedabad, India) https://www.instagram.com/p/CMkFO8vr852/?igshid=1568qvlt5p79q

[rossl32123]

Broken Clouds, 14°C

7 Pacific Hwy, Mooney Mooney NSW 2083, Australia

Of jobs

So many jobs, so little time. What have I been doing with myself.

Resealing leaking hatches. Of all the jobs taken on this year resealing the forward hatch has taken the most time. It would have helped alot to have known the hatch was bolted down before I started, not screwed. To get access to the nuts you have to take down the ceiling lining, including removing the hand rails, then remove the hatch lining. Once it was all apart I sanded back all the woodwork and varnished it with as many coats as I thought I could get away with, then put it all back together with at least half a tube if sikaflex. I think it still leaks!

The sail locker hatch came apart much more easily, there is no ceiling liner in that part of the boat. Much sikaflex, and butyl tape on the bolt heads seems to have got this one done although I still suspect leaks.

I took the foot of the self tackers boom off the deck and rebedded it with butyl tape.

The anchor winch has been dismantled and the lower clutch remachined.

The main anchor chain has been removed from the locker, measured (80m), marked at 10m intervals, and returned to the locker. The bitter end was treated with some anti rust spray.

Both anchor rodes are now all gal shackles and swivels. All shackles have been seized but I might switch to cable ties for that job, particularly as playing with different anchor/chain combinations requires undoing the shackles, which isn't so easy once they have been seized with stainless wire.

Both head sails have been inspected by a sail maker and restitching done where it has flogged out. Toe and head tacks have also been cleaned up.

The sailmaker has also replaced all the clears that were smashed by the hail storm last year, and built me a new mizzen. The old one tore at the leech clew, so I had it repaired, but then it tore again as I was trying to bend it back on. He wasn't so keen to repair it again. The clears need some new studs fitting to the cockpit canopy, which I still have to do. The corrosion in the aluminum frame where the old ones pulled out is quite bad, probably because of the stainless fittings weren't isolated properly.

I fitted a new set of blocks on the self tackers sheet track so that I can control the car from the cockpit. This required jam cleats and guides as well, but I got quite alot of the components second hand so it wasn't too expensive. I came up with this solution after the self tacker flogged the sheet car back and forth along the traveller and blew out the stops and the track end caps, which you can't get anymore for the type of track I have.

More hatch work. The aft cabin hatch wouldn't come apart, even after I took all the head lining down around it. I just could not get the hatch liner to come out, so I though to myself, "How much of this taking to bits regime do I have to force on myself? All the woodwork I had removed I cleaned up and varnished, then I cleaned up the hatch and liner/surround, taped it off and varnished it all in place. Since it didn't seem to leak through the flange, only through one corner of the main seal, and the control gasket, I figured I'd get away with it.

Also, the main cabin has two small hatches, these don't leak either, so I sanded their liners back in situ, and varnished them (3 coats). The big hatch in the main cabin is next, followed by the woodwork at the entry although I've already started this (couldn't help myself). There's also a bit of woodwork under the main sheet traveller which I've started preparing to varnish.

The genoa halyard was replaced, at the same time I ran up a block to the head of the sail so that I could reave a halyard to it for raising the spare genoa onto the same foil for going wing on wing.

I've started work on a solution for preventing halyards from tangling in the mast steps. This will involve climbing both masts at some stage to run light lines up the outside of the steps, then drilling through the steps to fit cable ties (or some such) to hold the line in place.

The steering disconnect control cable has been replaced.

A new topping lift has been installed on the mizzen boom.

The diesel heater has been demystified. After using all the diesel from the header tank last year it's remained empty while I figured out how to top it up again. That required quite a bit of time tracing plumbing and electrical cabling. Eventually I worked out that the "circulation pump" switch on the DC panel also allows the lift pump to top up the tank, provided you open the tap next to the gen set, and pull the switch under the heater. What had me really confused to start with was that I didn't know where the pump was, and the circulation pump is for water through the wet back, so how did the diesel get into the tank? Also, the sight tube was so brown inside that at first I thought it was copper pipe, then once I replaced it I couldn't figure out the tap at the top of the tank. It turned out that the bleed valve you close when you fill the tank so that any overflow goes down the return line, and you open it so as to avoid an airlock when your using the heater. The sight guage is also part of the filling line, which provided another level of confusion, as you can't tell the level in the tank while filling it. You have to turn the pump off and wait for the level to settle. Anyway, it's all good now, really cosy in fact, except that the water circulation doesn't seem to be reaching the heat exchangers fore and aft, but that problem is low on the list.

The saltwater pump for the desk wash down wasn't working too well. I started by replacing the ancient old gross particle filter with a more modern plastic one, but the pump still only runs for about 2 or 3 minutes before petering out. While searching under the rear cabin berth I discovered 2 other pumps in a plastic bag, underneath where the installed pump was. I'm not sure why they were stashed there because they were rubbish, but perhaps they were there to remind me just how long these things last.

I cleaned up alot of mess from under the rear cabin berth, including about half a litre of spilt Dextron. I would like to know where that came from as there were no obvious signs. I also restowed the spare engine parts under there to make room for more personal items in the foot locker, and I worked out a way of rolling the mattress out of the way so that you can get at that area. Previously I had been pulling the mattress off the bed and into the companionway, which was an all around pain. Now I can lift both ends to access a length of webbing which I can use to tie the mattress into a roll.

Rooting around under the stove I discovered that the igniters do have a power source. Ive been using a gas lighter for the last two years. It is only a small AA battery, but it had plenty of life in it so I returned it to its holder and lo, spark ignition!

The chart table chair now slides forward on its track, and locks as designed.

I replaced the broken pin in the track slider that the whisker pole snaps onto with a dowel of hard wood. I've also managed to get a second slider organised, it's pretty rough, but you have to have one if you want to wing on wing the headsails. Now I just need to free up the seized pin in the spare whisker pole, and work out how to get the spare slider onto the mast track.

I took the main compass off the binnacle, thinking that perhaps I'd better inspect and oil the engine control lines. There was a fair bit of corrosion in the compass mount as the screws where stainless through aluminium. I have an idea to replace the whole control panel at some stage. The compass is a bit of an anachronism these days but I'm not sure if I should toss it out. The depth guage is so old it uses vacuum tubes to display the numbers, but it does work. The GPSs screen has burnt out, although the unit still works! The wind indicator panel is fine, although it only gives apparent wind at the moment, however, the wind speed sensor is unreliable. Since it is also an ancient unit (despite being self powered and wireless) you can't get parts for it. When I climb the mast to do the step protector job I'll have to take it down and figure out what I can do with it. I really would like to have a completely wireless system of wind speed and direction, hull speed, depth and sea temp coming through to a couple of guages by the wheel, and also to the computer and any other device that can use the data, like iSailor and OpenCPN.

I was dissappointed with the amount of power the vacuum cleaner gets through. It's almost as bad as the microwave. When you pull 100 amps from the battery bank the voltage drops very quickly, and puts the batteries under stress. Two minutes of vacuuming will do it. I did discover that besides running the battery charger part of the inverter, the gen set will also power all the 120V sockets, when it's running. This was a surprise as I was under the impression that the gen set only recharged the battery bank. Now I know I can run all the 120V equipment on the boat I like, provided I put up with the gen set running.

I have discovered the trick to the 2hp outboard! It has always been a problem for me, so much so the I stopped using it for quite a while. Even after dealing with getting water in the carburettor all the time it still ran unreliably, usually quitting after having only run for 50m. After some considerable time putting up with it, it became apparent that it was fuel starvation. If I tilted the motor up when it was just about to die, it would fire up again for another 5m. Looking into the fuel tank one day I discovered that the inlet pipe sat up off the bottom of the tank by a good 2-3cm. With the angle of the transom on the dinghy, plus the inlet pipe being on the high side of the tank you only have to run the tank down about a third before she starts sucking air. Unfortunately you can't level the motor off as the fitting adjustment as rusted up solid. Never mind, atleast I know now that you just have to keep the tank topped up.

Powered by Journey Diary.

[thisdaynews]

FEC approves Uninterrupted Power Supply for Aso Rock

New Post has been published on https://thebiafrastar.com/fec-approves-uninterrupted-power-supply-for-aso-rock/

FEC approves Uninterrupted Power Supply for Aso Rock

The federal executive council (FEC) has approved the inclusion of the presidential villa in the eligible customer policy to ensure uninterrupted power supply to the villa.

In a statement on Friday, Hakeem Bello, special adviser on communications to Babatunde Fashola, minister of power, said the approval is aimed at achieving improvement in the electricity supply and distribution in the country.

According to him, the approval was made at the FEC meeting on in response to a memorandum submitted by the minister seeking approval to include the presidential villa in the distribution expansion programme earlier approved by the council.

The eligible customer regulation, which was issued by the Nigerian Electricity Regulatory Commission (NERC) in mid-2017, permits electricity customers to buy power directly from the electricity generation companies (GenCos), other than distribution companies (DisCos), in line with the provisions of section 27 of the Electric Power Sector Reform Act 2005.

The programme seeks to enable unutilised 2000 megawatts (MW) from the GenCos to be distributed to targeted metered customers.

“The Ministry had earlier obtained approval from the Bureau of Public Procurement (BPP) following its letter to the Bureau intimating it of the Council’s approval of the Distribution Expansion Programme with the intention of the Ministry to procure civil works that would facilitate uninterrupted power supply to the Aso Rock Villa and curb the present erratic supply of power in spite of the availability of power by the Generation Companies (GenCos),” Bello said.

“The project to be executed by Messrs Dextron Engineering Limited, has a completion period of six months under the Distribution Expansion Programme. An arrangement has also been put in place such that a GenCo, North-South Power Company Limited, will procure the dedicated supply to the Villa from the National Grid while the Abuja Electricity Distribution Company (AEDC) has indicated interest to ensure success of the project.”

ENDORSEMENT FOR A STERILE REGULATION TWO YEARS AFTER INTRODUCTION

In February, the federal government had asked GenCos to find eligible customers for its stranded power as the payment for shortfalls might end soon.

On March 1, 2017, the federal government approved the sum of N701 billion as power assurance guarantee fund for the Nigerian Bulk Electricity Trader (NBET) to pay for the electricity produced by the GenCos to the national grid and as well cover the shortfalls. The two-year intervention ended in December, 2018.

With the current reality that no licensed customer has benefitted from the eligible customer policy two years after it was unveiled, the patronage from the presidency gives a strong endorsement to the directive, encouraging more buyers, especially manufacturers who require uninterrupted power supply for industrial use.

This will also encourage GenCos to produce more energy, as they currently produce less than their installed capacity of 13,000MW, in as much more eligible customers are ready to buy them. It will also reduce the constant issue of load rejection by DisCos, as the rejected energy will be diverted to eligible customers.

[transmogwow]

Dextron - Los Errantes (eu) head: Hidden Helm neck: Heart of Azeroth shoulder: Wardenguard's Pauldrons back: High Tinker's Cape chest: Breastplate of Divine Purification shirt: Precious' Ribbon wrist: Harbormaster Wristplates hands: Wardenguard's Battlegloves waist: 7th Legionnaire's Greatbelt legs: Leadplate Legguards feet: Boots of the Dark Iron Raider finger1: Captain's Signet of Command finger2: Band of the Roving Scalawag trinket1: Knot of Ancient Fury trinket2: Ritual Feather of Unng Ak mainHand: Zem'lan Slicer offHand: Zem'lan Slicer

[erwinsalarda]

Acura ILX Hybrid Atf Oil Specification

Acura ILX Hybrid Atf Oil Specification

Acura ILX Hybrid Atf Oil Specification

Acura ILX Hybrid Atf Oil Specification

Model Year Trans Type Total FillQt/Liter Service FillQt/Liter OEM Fluid Type ALTERNATIVE OIL RLX Hybrid 14 DC M9TF 4.8/4.5 3.7/3.5 Honda Genuine ATF DW-1 DVI RLX Hybrid 16-17 DC M9TF 4.8/4.5 3.7/3.5 Honda Genuine ATF DW-1 DVI ATF OIL ALTERNATIVE LEGEND dm DVI MV DEXTRON /MERCON DEXTRON

[rdjo]

Listen now or download on: http://radiodj.online

(со страницы 3 new tracks - listen or download on RDJO!)

[itsworn]

How to Rebuild a TREMEC T-5 Transmission

TREMEC’s T-5 five-speed transmission has been in continuous production for more than 35 years. Originally designed and manufactured by BorgWarner and first offered in the early 1980s, the venerable T-5 has been a mainstay for longer than a lot of us have been around. The fully synchronized T-5 five-speed transmission is a countershaft-style helical gear unit. In the late 1990s, BorgWarner sold its manual transmission division to TREMEC, which is still building new T-5 transmissions to this day and are available from Modern Driveline along with all of the parts necessary to service them.

At the beginning of the 1983 model year, GM introduced the T-5 five-speed in the Camaro and Firebird to help improve fuel economy and add some snappy performance. Other automakers quickly caught on to what the T-5 did for fuel economy and performance, which means you will find many variations of the T-5 box. There have been more than 260 variations of the T-5 produced over its production life.

There are two basic types of T-5 transmissions: the original Non World Class (NWC) T-5 and the World Class (WC) T-5, introduced in 1985. Bruce Couture of Modern Driveline tells Chevy High Performance the World Class name had little to do with strength and durability, but instead the T-5’s introduction into the world market in the mid-1980s as a performance transmission. The World Class T-5 was engineered to take greater amounts of power and deliver improved shift quality via revised synchronizers and bearings, which makes the World Class T-5 easy to identify.

“All the mainshaft gears, First through Third, ride on a solid output shaft with deep oil grooves to provide good lubrication,” Bruce comments. “The lower countershaft gears spin on straight cylindrical bearings with a thrust washer in front to provide support when under load. All the synchronizer rings are made of solid bronze, which are of different size than those found in a World Class T-5.”

“No longer were First, Second, and Third gears spinning on a solid output shaft. Needle bearings were installed with each gear ratio to reduce internal friction. The lower counter gears saw tapered bearings to replace the bronze thrust washer,” Bruce adds. “All mainshaft synchronizers were fiber lined steel rings to improve ring friction surface area while overdrive (Fifth gear) remained bronze. Installing steel synchronizer rings with linings improved two things. These rings don’t stretch and break and the added friction slowing the gear faster allowing for higher shift points.”

Where the World Class T-5 story becomes more involved is the aftermarket, which came in the early 1990s. Bruce tells us the aftermarket offers performance enthusiasts heavy-duty gearsets for the T-5, with some companies claiming 600 lb-ft of torque capacity. “Our experience at Modern Driveline has been different with these gearsets. What makes these gearsets different is the steel alloy and gear shape. Changing to a harder alloy will provide more strength; however, the problem is making sure the gear has some ‘give’ to it. Too hard and gears break. Other ways of increasing torque levels is to take some of the helic out of the gear and make the gear thicker yet making it more cog like. While this will make the gear stronger, it also makes it much noisier. Many of these aftermarket gearsets are very expensive and require aftermarket main cases and mainshaft to get the specified torque ratings these companies claim. By the time the aftermarket gear and supporting parts are purchased, one should consider other options for the same money.”

Bruce stresses World Class T-5 transmissions use ATF (Dextron III) oil, not heavy gear lube. All Non World Class T-5 transmissions use 50-weight gear oil. The original Ford/BorgWarner lubrication recommendation back in 1984 was Dextron II, but because it is no longer available, Modern Driveline and TREMEC recommend the 50-weight gear oil. “When we rebuild transmissions, we can tell when the oil has been changed often because the parts are much cleaner with less overall wear and tear,” Bruce comments. Bruce suggests a magnetic oil drain plug in your T-5 to capture metal fragments that come from use. This, coupled with regular lube changes, will yield a longer transmission life. CHP

  This is the World Class T-5 five-speed transmission as most of us know it. Before you is a mid-1990s BorgWarner main case and extension housing, which hasn’t changed much since the World Class was introduced in 1985. Unless you’re performing a restoration, the World Class T-5 is the best choice.

Modern Driveline has this World Class T-5 disassembled for this article. The T-5 is a simple overdrive manual transmission that’s easy to service. Paul Coffey, chief customer service engineer at Modern Driveline, has a very methodical approach to each T-5 he builds. He examines every part closely to ensure it’s going to operate properly when it arrives on the customer’s doorstep.

This is the World Class T-5 rebuild kit available from Modern Driveline, which includes nearly everything you’re going to need to rebuild one, with the exception being any broken hard parts you would need to replace.

The T-5 is a top-shifting, single rail transmission where the shifter forks are built into the top cover.

The shifter forks need to be inspected for wear patterns like this.

The shifter forks have these tabs or bushings that should be replaced during a rebuild. They heat up and wear out over time and use.

The shifter forks install into the top cover like this where they are connected to the shift rail.

Here’s a close-up of a T-5 output shaft with minute surface scoring. This shaft could be reused, but not by Modern Driveline. Galling like this only serves to create more problems even when you install new bearings. Old problems become the same problem in a new build.

Here is the difference between old synchronizers and new ones. Look at the wear and scoring in the old synchronizers (top). Synchronizer and blocking rings must be replaced.

The T-5’s countershaft works hand in hand with gears on the mainshaft assembly (output and input shafts) to affect gear ratio. As with other transmission components, the countershaft must be inspected closely for damage and abnormal wear. Even minor scoring will cause noise and performance issues. If you look at bearing mating surfaces of this World Class T-5 countershaft, there are virtually no wear issues. The gear teeth appear free of damage and abnormal wear.

The countershaft is installed in the T-5’s main case as shown via a hydraulic press.

The countershaft and idler gear are installed in the main case as shown. The reverse idler gear slides in and out to deliver reverse gear. These are the first parts installed during assembly. The reverse idler gear slides right to engage the counter gear.

Modern Driveline stresses the need for a close examination of the gear teeth and synchronizers for damage and excessive wear. Look at these items with a magnifying glass for even the smallest imperfection, which can cause shift problems and noise. The reverse slider has minute gear tooth damage, which could be easily overlooked during a rebuild.

The countershaft, reverse idler, and shift mechanism have been installed, making it busier inside. Yet to go in is the T-5’s output shaft.

The T-5’s output shaft is checked for runout. Excessive runout makes it a throwaway.

A close-up look at the output shaft shows evidence of excessive wear. Sometimes surfaces can be polished. Most of the time it’s a good idea to replace the shaft.

As parts are assembled onto the output shaft they are checked for resistance and binding. Any binding is unacceptable.

The output shaft assembly is complete and ready for installation in the main case.

The blocking ring and Torrington bearing are fitted into the synchronizer on the output shaft. Once this shaft is fitted into the transmission case, the input shaft will be fitted and seated.

The output shaft assembly is installed as shown into the main case and fitted to the countershaft (also known as the cluster shaft or cluster gear).

The Fifth gear (overdrive) fork, which is housed in the extension housing, is installed and seated on the synchronizer and fifth gear drive assembly.

The input shaft splines into the output shaft. These needle bearings support rotation. They should be packed with assembly lube to keep the roller bearings in place during installation.

Paul Coffey of Modern Driveline wraps up another World Class T-5 build—one of the many types of TREMEC manual transmissions they service.

    The post How to Rebuild a TREMEC T-5 Transmission appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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Peter Parker, the Spectacular Spider-Man #125-126

Peter Parker, the Spectacular Spider-Man #125-126

The title of issue #125 is “Wrecking Havoc,” an obvious play on the idiom “Wreaking Havoc,” but for some reason it just looks like a typo.  Maybe because the pronunciation is so different.

But whatever.  Y’all don’t come here for grammar.

In this issue, Spider-Woman II, who is still working for the Government-run “Freedom Force,” is trying to steal information from Dextron Labs when the Wrecking…

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