#PTFE Tubing Used for in 3D Printing

[globalinsight678]

Medical PTFE Market: From $3.9B in 2023 to $7.0B by 2033, with a 5.8% CAGR

Medical Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Market is undergoing significant growth, driven by its exceptional properties such as durability, biocompatibility, and non-reactivity, making it an ideal material for a wide range of healthcare applications. From surgical implants to catheters and grafts, PTFE’s unique characteristics support its integration into diverse medical devices, enabling healthcare innovation and improving patient outcomes.

To Request Sample Report :https://www.globalinsightservices.com/request-sample/?id=GIS26334 &utm_source=SnehaPatil&utm_medium=Article

In 2023, the market was valued at 320 million metric tons, with projections suggesting it will reach 480 million metric tons by 2033. Surgical applications hold the largest market share (45%), followed by cardiovascular (30%) and orthopedic (25%) applications. The increasing demand for minimally invasive procedures, along with PTFE’s superior biocompatibility, is driving the dominance of surgical applications.

The market is segmented by product types like sheets, tubes, rods, and films, with sheets and membranes leading due to their extensive use in surgical implants. Tubes and rods are seeing growth due to their application in catheters and medical tubing. Regionally, North America leads the market, followed by Europe and the rapidly expanding Asia-Pacific region, particularly in China and India. This growth is fueled by rising healthcare investments and the burgeoning medical device industry in these regions.

Key players such as W.L. Gore & Associates, Zeus Industrial Products, and Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics are at the forefront of market dynamics, emphasizing product innovation and expanding in emerging markets. Future growth is anticipated to be driven by technological advancements, strategic partnerships, and increasing demand for high-performance medical materials.

With a 10% CAGR projected over the next decade, the Medical PTFE Market is poised for substantial development, with opportunities in R&D and the integration of technologies like 3D printing. However, challenges including regulatory hurdles and competition from alternative materials remain.

#MedicalPTFE #HealthcareInnovation #MinimallyInvasive #SurgicalImplants #CardiovascularDevices #OrthopedicDevices #PTFE #MedicalTechnology #HealthcareMaterials #MedicalDeviceIndustry #NorthAmericaHealthcare #EuropeHealthcare #AsiaPacificHealthcare #3DPrintingInMedicine #Medic

[jedyfwf]

Perfluoroalkoxy (PFA) Market Report: Trends, Analysis, and Projections

Perfluoroalkoxy (PFA) is a high-performance fluoropolymer known for its exceptional thermal stability, chemical resistance, and electrical insulation properties. This blog delves into the dynamics of the global PFA market, exploring key drivers, diverse applications across industries, emerging trends, and future growth prospects.

Understanding the PFA Market:

Perfluoroalkoxy (PFA) Is a fluoropolymer closely related to polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and offers similar advantageous properties. PFA exhibits excellent non-stick characteristics, resistance to high temperatures, chemicals, and UV radiation, making it indispensable in critical applications across various sectors.

Market Dynamics:

Semiconductor Industry: PFA is widely used in the semiconductor industry for manufacturing critical components such as wafer carriers, tubing, seals, and gaskets due to its purity, non-contaminating nature, and resistance to corrosive chemicals used in semiconductor processes.

Chemical Processing: PFA's exceptional chemical resistance makes it ideal for use in chemical processing equipment, valves, pumps, linings, and gaskets, where exposure to corrosive chemicals, acids, and solvents is common.

Medical and Pharmaceutical: PFA is utilized in medical and pharmaceutical applications for tubing, catheters, fluid handling systems, and components requiring biocompatibility, sterilizability, and resistance to chemicals used in healthcare settings.

Automotive and Aerospace: PFA coatings, tapes, and films find applications in automotive and aerospace industries for wire and cable insulation, thermal protection, and anti-corrosion coatings in harsh environments.

Applications Across Industries:

Semiconductor: Wafer carriers, tubing, seals.

Chemical Processing: Equipment linings, gaskets, valves.

Medical and Pharmaceutical: Tubing, catheters, fluid handling.

Automotive and Aerospace: Wire insulation, coatings, thermal protection.

Market Trends:

Miniaturization and High Purity Demands: Increasing demand for miniaturized semiconductor components and high-purity materials in semiconductor manufacturing processes drive the adoption of PFA due to its cleanliness, non-contaminating properties, and precise fabrication capabilities.

Focus on Healthcare Innovations: Growing healthcare innovations, including minimally invasive procedures, drug delivery systems, and medical device advancements, fuel the demand for biocompatible and chemically resistant materials like PFA in medical and pharmaceutical applications.

Rapid Prototyping and Additive Manufacturing: Advances in additive manufacturing techniques and 3D printing technologies enable the fabrication of complex PFA parts and components, supporting rapid prototyping and customized solutions across industries.

Future Prospects:

The global PFA market is poised for significant growth, driven by technological advancements, expanding applications in critical industries, and increasing emphasis on material performance, purity, and sustainability. Investments in R&D, manufacturing capabilities, and regulatory compliance will shape the market's evolution and competitiveness.

Conclusion:

Perfluoroalkoxy (PFA) emerges as a versatile and indispensable fluoropolymer with diverse applications ranging from semiconductor manufacturing to healthcare and aerospace industries. Understanding market trends, technological innovations, and industry demands is crucial for stakeholders in the PFA market to capitalize on growth opportunities effectively. With a focus on purity, performance, and application versatility, the PFA market presents promising prospects for continued growth and innovation in the global polymer and materials landscape.

[qocsuing]

3D Printer Extruder – All You Need to Know

3D Printer Extruder – All You Need to Know

For most makers and hobbyists, 3D printing takes the form of desktop machines that use the process known as fused deposition modeling (FDM) – or fused filament fabrication (FFF), depending on who you ask.Get more news about Micro Precision Cold Extrusion Part Exporter,you can vist our website!

In a nutshell, FDM involves feeding a thread of plastic material into a hot metal block with a nozzle. The filament melts, and the printer’s movements deposit it in the desired shape. This traced path is repeated, stacking incrementally until a solid 3D object forms.

The business end of handling the material – melting it and spitting it out – happens in an assembly of parts that are together commonly known as the extruder. While not that complex mechanically, there are still plenty of parts that, in a specific sequence, allow your 3D printer to extrude plastic.

In this beginner’s guide, we’ll address the main sections of the 3D printer extruder, the variations, styles, and popular models on the market, plus the 3D printer nozzle and the usual materials therein. The 3D printer extruder is a series of parts that handle the moving and processing of plastic filament.

Some people think of the “extruder” as being exclusively the motor and associated parts that push and pull the filament. Others consider the entire assembly, including the hot end, where the melting and deposition of the filament takes place.

To keep things simple, we’re considering the entire assembly as the extruder. Explaining the extruder requires a close look at two crucial assemblies, commonly referred to as the “cold end” and the “hot end”. The Cold End As the name suggests, the cold end is just that – cold. Cold end refers to the upper portion of the 3D printer extruder system where the filament is fed and passed along into the hot end (the lower portion of the extruder system) for melting and extrusion onto the print bed.

The layout and position of your 3D printer’s cold end are generally determined by whether it is a direct or Bowden extruder. The Lulzbot Taz 6 pictured above uses a direct extruder, in which filament is pulled into the print head (the entire assembly that moves to deposit filament onto the build plate) and pushed into the hot end directly. Cold End Anatomy

The cold end of a 3D printer extruder typically consists of a stepper motor to drive the motion of extrusion, a hobbed bolt or toothed gear mounted to the motor’s shaft to transfer that movement to the filament, a spring-loaded idler (typically a bearing of some kind) to maintain pressure on the filament, and sometimes PTFE tubing to guide the filament to its destination – a necessity in Bowden extruders.

This is the broadest description of the cold end of a 3D printer extruder. However, there is a lot of variation in how the extruder works and specific terms that can apply to different arrangements, positions on the printer, and sophistication in the transferral of power from the stepper motor to the filament – let’s get into it!

[collectionsterri]

Bondtech lgx vs hemera

#Bondtech lgx vs hemera mod#

#Bondtech lgx vs hemera upgrade#

Although Hemera has been developed from the ground up, it has been ensured that it maintains compatibility with the entire E3D ecosystem of. I will need to deal with firmware changes but it will not a problem since the brand provide a good explanation of it, just thinking how I will set the end stops and attach the entire extruder to the rods (combine with others designs provided above or remix the E3d adapter to UM2) the challenge will be keep a good balance on it… I will lose a bit of area in some of the axis probably and need to add a fan duct on it. Although E3D Hemera is designed to be used as a direct extruder, it can also be used as a Bowden extruder simply by adding a small adapter. The speed will be lower because of the extra weight but I always print slower than 60 and with bigger nozzles… and I’m printing a lot with TPU nowadays shores of 85A, 95A and 98A (semi-flex) so this should be a good direction even to print TPE /softer and showned in some demos. It’s a good option for me convert to 1.75mm filament because it’s almost impossible to find 2.85mm here and when I found it’s triple the price and has a lot of moisture due to low demand 😓 Direct Drive Bondtech LGX Lite with Mosquito Magnum Hotend on Ender 7 with. I also get an allmetal/ bimetal heatbreak to avoid the one with internal PTFE tube (it cames with Capricorn in a bore 4.1 heatbreak I guess). Zoe Moon) NCS ReleaseTollef - Take Our Time NCS Rele. I previously reviewed the Trianglelabs Matrix and it performed really well. This makes the thermal performance a bit better while also requiring less airflow. Smaller motor (weaker torch), but relation 7:1 and total extruder weight of 119 grams (photo bellow). Gian) NCS ReleaseAbstrakt - U NCS ReleaseSTAR SEED- Cayenne (feat. The main difference between the Matrix and the Hemera is the use of a bi-metal heat break instead of the regular titanium heat break used on the Hemera. Nowadays there is a newer and lighter extruder in the market, the H2 from Biqu, just got one. Prints like a charm now (even flexibles). But there is a 50 increase in drive gear perimeter. It is, especially when using our original QR 12mm 37.68mm perimeter drive gears. LGX Drive Wheel Not saying the Orbiter isn’t a good extruder. In retrospect I would recommend to start with a 3D-printed one. And it is precisely because of the large drive gears 18mm 56.52mm perimeter our new LGX will have advantage on the grip. Reports suggest that when it clogs, it clogs for good. A crossbreed of V6 and Mosquito, it takes V6 nozzles while pumping up a Volcano flow, at least on paper. Not a huge fan, since it needs a specialized nozzle. Simply put, the E3D Hemera, is a state-of-the-art dual drive extrusion system which has put performance and user-friendliness at the forefront of its. Also it's quite heavy and the included linear bearings are trash. This appears to be a go-to hotend for high flow. There is also a aluminium head assembly on AliExpress, but be careful, you may have to modify (drill/mill) to get it working. I would also recommend to print everything from ABS or similar temperature stable. V6 groove mount compatible hotend (24V Heater Cartridge, PT100 Thermistor) "Tinker-Firmware" by TinkerGnome (/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases) "Ultimaker 2 BMG direct drive mount" by Tigerhawk60 (- Bondtech BMG extruder My original design was quite laborious, but I found a more elegant solution based on ultiarjan's suggestion:ġ) tube-holder: reuses the bowden-tube as cable-guideĢ) Y-endstop-extender: BMG stepper motor will crash into the UM2 housing without it

#Bondtech lgx vs hemera mod#

Sorry for the late reply, but I revised my mod quite a bit. Which one do you think is a better choice, in terms of print quality for ABS and nylon CF kind of materials i don’t really print fast. But then I found another option: bondtech ddx+mosquitos hotend.

#Bondtech lgx vs hemera upgrade#

To remove or replace a nozzle, never forget to secure the heater block before twisting the nozzle.Hello TheGrine, im interested in this configuration, could you please give me feedback of the configuration? Looking to upgrade your printer with a next-generation extrusion system Hemera is a compact, dual-drive extrusion system which combines our V6 HotEnd with. Wanted to upgrade the extruder to ed3 Hemera. After, you can simply unscrew the heat break from the heater block. When removing the heater block or changing nozzles, caution is required.īefore removing the heater block from the heat break (or vice versa), heat-up the nozzle, hold the heater block and release some tightening pressure from the nozzle. To address the heat creep issue the design features a narrower section with thinner walls. We recommend to use the included silver based thermal grease to properly fit the Bondtech heat-break in the Mini’s heat-sink. 1x 32×5.48 mm stainless steel heat-break.The adjusted length of the PTFE tube also prevents clogs to form between tube and heat-break. This Stainless Steel Bondtech Heat Break Kit for Prusa Mini addresses and solves the heat-creep issues revealed during the extensive testing we performed on the Prusa Mini.

[jaidonmays]

Capricorn Bowden Tubing

Capricorn bowden tubing has been designed for use with 1.75mm filament and features ultra-precision inner and outer diameters. This allows for tighter tolerances and a smoother run of the filament. The tubing also features a proprietary blend of high performance additives for increased precision.

Capricorn tubing is manufactured with state-of-the-art equipment. This ensures that the final diameter is consistent and round. This is important because Bowden tubes can vary in size in the real world. While bowden tubes are commonly labeled 2.0mm inside diameter, in actual use they can vary from 1.75mm to 2.15mm. Capricorn High Performance Bowden tubing is made with the highest quality PTFE, is transparent and light blue in color, and offers excellent temperature resistance.

Capricorn offers a range of options for 3D printers. In addition to Bowden tubes, Capricorn offers a variety of other excellent 3D print products. These products are designed to maximize the user's 3D print experience, and use only the highest quality raw materials.

Premium PTFE Bowden Tubing from Capricorn features ultra-low friction. The PTFE-based material has excellent chemical resistance, which reduces wear and tear. The low coefficient of friction allows for easy filament movement. The PTFE material also helps in preventing filament slippage.

Capricorn PTFE tubing is a great choice for filament that is 1.75mm thick. Its precision inner and outer diameters help load filament into the hotend smoothly. Its PTFE material is resistant to higher temperatures than most other tubing, making it perfect for printing exotic filaments. It is also flat on both sides, making it easy to cut and install.

Capricorn PTFE Bowden tubing is a high-quality, premium PTFE made specifically for 3D printers. Made with pure virgin PTFE and proprietary additives, Capricorn PTFE tubing offers the highest levels of lubricity and reduced friction on the market. Its low-friction properties allow it to be used with flexible filaments and offers the best extrusion performance.

Capricorn PTFE tubing is an essential part of any 3D printer. It serves as the filament guide tube in direct drive systems and filament path in bowden systems. These features are vital for reliable performance and tight tolerances, and Capricorn tubing meets those needs. Its durability is unparalleled and can easily withstand the heat of 3D printing.

[bigtheoristparadise]

Capricorn Bowden Tubing

Capricorn bowden tubing is a high-performance material that is manufactured with advanced equipment and has a precision inside diameter. This is vital for successful printouts. Compared to other materials, the inside diameter of Capricorn tubes is consistent, round, and is consistent across the entire tube. This is not always the case with Bowden tubes, as the inside diameter of a Bowden tube varies from one unit to the next. The TL Series High Performance Bowden tubing, for example, is manufactured with the highest grade of PTFE and has an internal diameter of 1.9mm + 0.05mm. It is also highly resistant to temperature changes, with a light blue color that is translucent.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE, is a synthetic polymer commonly used in non-stick pots and other equipment. This material has a slipperiest surface, and is also considered the best material for bowden tubing. The process of creating bowden tubes is expensive and requires precision equipment to produce a consistent shape. For this reason, the best polymer for bowden tubing is PTFE, although plain white PTFE is also used.

Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tubing has a tight tolerance and a uniform structure, so you can be sure that the filament will reach the hotend with minimal resistance. This eliminates the risk of clogging the bowden tube. In addition to being uniform in structure, Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tubing is perfectly tight on both ends.

Capricorn's premium PTFE Capricorn XS Bowden tubing is made from the highest quality PTFE, with a secret blend of additives for improved performance. This tubing has the lowest friction possible, and is suitable for 2.85mm filament. This high-quality material also has an opaque surface, making it easy to distinguish from other 3D filaments.

Capricorn's PTFE Bowden Tubing is available in a variety of sizes. The TL line is especially useful for beginners, as it has a larger inner diameter than the XS line. It also has an extra-sharp PTFE cutter, which means that you can make sure the cut is even.

High-quality PTFE is used to produce Capricorn Bowden tubing. This material is made to be more durable and can withstand higher temperatures. It also has lower friction, so you can expect greater responsiveness, higher print accuracy, and smooth feeding. In addition, XS series tubing is designed to fit 1.75mm filament. With this inner diameter, it is easy to print with flexible filaments on Bowden systems.

Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tubing also features metal teeth to prevent unwanted tube retraction. These teeth-shaped fittings are more durable than the cheap, disposable fittings provided by many local brands. The extruder and hotend fittings of Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tubing feature PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 threads. The hotend fitting also comes with a clip to increase precision.

[mdshariful]

Creality Ender 6 Creality Ender 6 is a semi-integrated desktop FDM 3D printer that offers a few key important options for a clean and beautiful 3D printing skill. The Brand New Look combines the Creality Ender 6, built-in all-metal chamber physique with a clear acrylic open door and blue nook. Design of Creality Ender 6 In dimension phrases, the functionality Creality Ender 6 3D printer 250x 250 x 400mm quantifies it precisely between an Inder-5 Pro (220 x 220 x 300mm) and a CR-10 collection that starts at 300 x 300 x 400 Mm. You should have enough for the almost everyday printing job. The Activity Under-6 is an out-of-the-box machine that is neatly arranged with all the wires. Hassle-free in assembly, hassle-free in maintenance. While working on the sixth model UI system, all the data wanted to know together with the print course, to perform summaries, parameter settings, 4.3-in color interaction was clearly displayed on the display screen. Features of Creality Ender 6 Creality is using a Core-XY navigation system to construct the cube of the Creality Ender 6. Unlike the movement techniques of Delta 3D printers and Cartesian 3D printers, the core-XY mechanism has a printing mattress running from the bottom to the top and two stepper motors are used to drive the movement on the X-axis and Y-axis. The print head will move in specific directions depending on how the stepper motor is rotating, significantly vibrating and the weight to be carried across the entire movement of the printer. In this fashion, the print moves to the next speed without sacrificing high quality. The Creality Ender 6 is a workhorse capable of printing at increased speeds without sacrificing the accuracy of printing. Performance of Creality Ender 6 We notice that customers are using larger print sizes, increased precision, multicolor, or multi-materials, and additional using We are passionate about integrating some benefits of at least one product to reach the most effective value in cash; Creativity Senior Product Engineer. Creality Ender 6 is using a Bowden extruder that ensures a secure filament transmission; Nozzle by PTFE tube. The stepper motor is as strong as; The full weight of the resort is so light that it ends up overshooting and vibrating throughout the movement of the print title. In this fashion, the imperfections in the case of Inder-6 printing are significantly reduced. Furthermore, the self-development of the  Ender 6 Creality is assured with the silent motherboard. The TMC Movement Controller imported from Germany ensures proper movement management and premium printing efficiency in silence. Based on knowledge from the Creativity Research Institute; The Ender 6 retains its precise data ± 0.1 mm where the print speed is multiplied by three cases. Pros and Cons of Creality Ender 6 [su_row class="proscons"][su_column size="1/2" center="no" class="prosbox"] [su_box title="Pros" box_color="#27C110" title_color="#fff"] [su_list icon="icon: check-circle" icon_color="#27C110"] Ultra Silence Guaranteed Imported TMC2208 Chip Carborundum glass platform Filament Runout Sensor Resume Printing Function All Ease in Assembly 4.3in HD screen Larger Rotary Knob [/su_list] [/su_box] [/su_column] [su_column size="1/2" center="no" class="consbox"] [su_box title="Cons" box_color="#ff0000" title_color="#fff" ] [su_list icon="icon: times-circle" icon_color="#ff0000"] Printing Speed so not first [/su_list] [/su_box] [/su_column][/su_row] Conclusion The Creality Ender 6 comes with a filament sensor and a resume print functionality. If by chance the filament runs out or the power suddenly fails, you can probably easily and conveniently resume printing. It saves you the right materials and time. Where to buy Creality Ender 6? You can buy  Creality Ender 6 from online stores like Amazon, Banggood, Aliexpress, etc. #mdshriful #tech_news #gadget https://www.mdshariful.com/product/creality-ender-6/?feed_id=8461&_unique_id=6232aca85fcd2

[thorinair-printing]

Mounting The Hot End

The time has finally arrived to get my printer back in function. This little guide will show you how I assembled my hot end, in hopes to prevent leaking. We will know if it leaks or not once I start printing, hah! You will need a nozzle, a heating block and a throat. I have ordered the following from eBay:

4x mk8 extruder (marked) 3d printer Nozzle 0.4mm d403 CTC , ANET A8 ,1.75mm

2x mk8 extruder heat blocks, CTC Makerbot 1.75mm 3D printer part

2 x MK8 extruder ptfe lined throat M6X30mm- 1.75mm pla , ANET A8 3D printer part 

We will first insert the nozzle. Be sure to screw it in on the side where the small black Allen screw is located. Once you screw it in all the way, I unscrew it by quarter of a turn. We will tighten it up later so it is pressed well against the throat.

Using the smallest Allen wrench that comes with your Anet A8, push the PTFE tube located inside of the throat slightly out. You can push it from the side where it is all-metal. Do this carefully to prevent any sort of damage. We are doing this just to make sure it sits as close as physically possible to the nozzle later on.

You want to screw the throat in so the side where the PTFE tube is goes inside the heating block. Again, everything you do with the throat, do it as carefully as possible, to avoid one of my earlier posts.

Once you tighten the throat all the way by hand, use a 7mm wrench to tighten the nozzle. This should in theory prevent any leaks. Make sure that you can no longer spin the throat by hand.

Finally, screw the nut that came with your Anet A8 on the throat. The hot end is now ready to be attached with the printer’s head!

Start by removing the fan, cooler and air duct. We want clear access and view of the hot end while we mount it.

Screw the hot end into the head, and be sure to leave at least some space between the nut and the heating block. The nut should be tightened against the head, not the block! For now, it is not important to completely tighten it, just do it by hand.

Here is a funny observation. It appears that the heating blocks I ordered don’t have a hole for the thermistor. This means that we will be doing things a bit differently (and possibly incorrectly) by inserting the thermistor into the screw hole.

We will now insert the heater cartridge and the thermistor like this. As I mentioned earlier, it might not be the best solution. Make sure that the thermistor is actually inside the hole!

IMPORTANT: Don’t forget to tighten the Allen screw responsible for holding the heater in place! If you don’t do this, the heater might fall out during a print, potentially lighting your house on fire. You probably don’t want this to happen unless you are a pyromaniac.

Finally, gently tighten the nut. It doesn’t matter if the hot end can turn slightly, as long as the throat is properly screwed into the block so they both turn together. The two should feel like one solid piece. You can now reassemble the head of the printer.

For the first time in over a week, we have a temperature reading! The temperature seems to fluctuate like crazy (between 180 and 220 °C), so we will need to PID tune the heater again! But this is material for the next post.

[diy3dtech]

At The Printer – Talking TPU Tips and Tricks!

by - [-] Rank/Rating: -/- Price: -

This video will start a new series titled “At The Printer” where we spend a few minutes discussing what we are printing, the material which I am using, interesting slicer settings and the like to help you better understand 3D printing, the material selection process and slicing challenges beyond the norm.

In this video we will be discussing my second favorite plastic being TPU (the first is PETG and Third PLA while ABS is way at the bottom). Here we are using our highly modified Wanaho i3 (see more here: amzn.to/2XeVyRL ) and as covered in the video we using a Phenolic Bed (see more here: amzn.to/2Zq6E9i ) with a knock off E3D all metal hot end (see more here: amzn.to/2z9IpBz ) and highly recommend Capricorn PTFE tubing (see more here: amzn.to/2ymxvIb ). The TPU we are using is SainSmart (see more here: amzn.to/2Zv6hKF ) which we highly recommend.

Want to see what we are up to daily? Check out our regular YouTube Blog posts at: diy3dtech.com/blog

Please visit www.DIY3DTech.com for more information on this and many other projects!

Check us out on Social Media to see what we are up too as we always have something cooking in the shop!

-Follow us on Instagram: www.instagram.com/diy3dtech/

-Follow us on Tumblr: www.tumblr.com/blog/diy3dtech

-Follow us on Reddit: www.reddit.com/user/DIY3Dtech

Subscribe to the DIY3DTech YouTube Channel: YouTube.DIY3DTech.com

Subscribe to the DIY3DTech OpenSCAD Channel: openscad-youtube.diy3dtech.com

If your looking for looking 3D Printer, Laser Cutter and CNC Swag (T-Shirts, Hats, Mugs, etc), please support the channel by visiting our online shop at: swag.DIY3DTech.com

Are you a retailer or product manufacture and would like your product reviewed? Please contact us at info[at]diy3dtech.com

Tags: #DIY3Dtech

from WordPress http://diy3dtech.com/at-the-printer-talking-tpu-tips-and-tricks/ via IFTTT

[awardwiki]

Model: 700355100638 PartNumber: 700355100638 FlashForge is improving and doing the updates from time to time. To make sure you have the best experience with the 3d printer, please ALWAYS UPDATE FIRMWARE TO LATEST VERSION. You can do firmware update on the printer quickly. Here are the steps: 1. Turn on the printer and go to touch screen menu ToolsSetting--WiFi. 2. Enable WiFi by slipping the icon at top right corner. Printer will scan available wireless networks. 3. Select your own network and enter password to connect. 4. After successful WiFi connection, go to touch screen menu ToolsSettingUpdate to update firmware to latest version. If you need video instruction, please contact me and I will send you the link. Meet the new kid on the block. the user-friendly, home-friendly, and wallet-friendly 3D printer from FlashForge is ready to play. Loaded with easy-to-use features, and designed to be at home in kids rooms and classrooms, the new FlashForge Finder is the first choice for 3D printing novices and educators. Beginners benefit from the slide-in build plate, assisted bed-leveling, and intuitive color touchscreen. And parents and teachers appreciate its quiet and safe operation. The Finder uses only non-toxic PLA, and the heated components are safely encased. The creative world of 3D printing awaits, and the FlashForge Finder is here to show you the way. Whats in the box? Quick start guide After-sales service card Power cable Filament guide tube Tool bag(Contains 2Allen wrench, Wrench, Screwdriver, Unclogging pin tool, PTFE tube, Grease) Finder 3D Printer 1 roll of 300g PLA filament, color randomly selected Power adapter USB cable Solid glue Printing technology- FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) Build volume: 140 L x 140 W x 140 H mm Layer resolution: 100-400 microns, adjustable Positioning precision: 11 microns on x and Y and 2.5 microns on Z Filament diameter: 1.75 mm Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm Frame and body: plastic and alloy Extruder quantity: one Product dimension: 420 x 420 x 420 mm Product weight: 16 kg Software: FlashPrint(No USB stick is included in the package, users need to download from FlashForge official website http://www.flashforge.com/support-center/finder/) File Type: STL, obj Operating systems: Windows 7/8/8.1/10, Mac OS x and Linux Printing via Wi-Fi, USB cableUSB stick and Cloud Language support: English/Chinese Printing material: PLA only. Support Contact Information If you encounter any issues with your FlashForge purchase or have any questions, please contact the expert support team at 597891915@qq.com

[makersteve]

This build guide contains the out of the box upgrades I highly recommend for any CR-10.

This is my second CR-10S – the first I upgraded from a CR-10 to an S.  I bought this “used” from the 3d-printer-online store on eBay.  The box arrived with broken glass but 3d-printer-online quickly agreed to send me a new one.  Total cost was under $300.00 with some fixin’s I had to apply.

Being used, this printer definitely had an easter egg hidden within (which we can discuss later), but I definitely benefited from someone else’s misfortune.

New on Amazon, they can be had for a little over $500.00 with free shipping.

Difficult: Easy

Price: $300ish used, $500ish new.

Time to complete: 1-3 hours (there will be some troubleshooting)

Print Area: 300x300x400mm (great size for the money.)

Features: Insulated Heated bed, Great Creality stability, Resume on power-failure, Flexible, Removable Print Surface, Ready to print!

Satisfaction: Complete!

Mandatory (IMHO) 3D Printed Upgrades

Cable clip 

Pressure fitting Clip

Basic Stringing Test – For Testing!

Recommended Tools

PTFE Cutter

Digital Level

Digital Micrometer

Recommended Parts/Supplies

WD-40 Specialist Dirt and Dust Resistant Dry Lube

Loctite Blue Stick, Medium Strength Thread Locker

CR-10/S Aluminum Extruder

Metric nut and screw assortment

Hatchbox PLA Hatchbox PLA White (my favorite) Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick

In the box..  broken glass.

Cleaned up, slightly used

Control Box and Parts box.

A view of the control Box.

Gantry Assembly.

Parts in the box laid out.

First upgrade out of the box, fix the bed leveling, in accordance with https://makersteve.com/2018/10/02/a-tale-of-two-enders-bed-level-ender-3-fix/

Unscrew all four upgraded bed leveling wheels.

Top view of the hotbed plate.

Hey look!  An insulated bed.

Get your Metric nut and screw assortment out.

Need four each M4 nuts for the leveling fix. 

One on each screw coming through the hotbed.

All the way down and tight.

This one takes a little finesse, but it needs a nut also.

Sprint goes on before the hotbed strain relief.

Just like that.

Looks good.

Check the hotbed rollers, ensure eccentric nuts are snug but not too tight.  The eccentric nuts are the 3 nuts shown, as you turn them, they tighten the rollers to the v-slot of aluminum extrusion that comprises the frame.

Make sure the bed sits flat, loosen the horizontal screws all the way around.  You will probably find the bed wiggles and is not level when you push on a corner, we will fix that real quick.  Stay with me.

Front and back.

Clamp one end to your work surface and tighen the opposite corner while pushing down, then tighen each corner working your way back to the clamp.  Your frame should sit flat now.

This is a great opportunity to use some Loctite Blue Stick, Medium Strength Thread Locker.  Just a dab on each screw.

Now put the three remaining springs back in place

Flip the hotbed over, holding the springs with all three hands and mate the hotbed back to the hotbed base.

Now place the gantry assembly on the base, it should balance.

Align the T-slot nuts as shown below so they properly seat in the v-slot of the frame.  Ensure they are loosen enough for the T-slot nuts to properly engage and lock

Hold the bracket in place and snug it up, but not tight, yet.

Loctite up your screws that go in through the bottom.

Position the frame just off your table enough so you can get underneath, line up the holes and screw the base to the gantry assembly.

Like so.

Other side.

Now tighten the T-slot nuts on the bracket, left and right.

Assemble the spool holder

Connect to control box.

Break out some new filament and hang it.

Identify X-axis motor connector, X-axis endstop and Extruder.

Plug in extruder

X-axis endstop

X-axis motor

Identify the Z motor and cable(s).  You will have two with a CR-10S, only one with a CR-10

Connect them to the motors.

Z-Axis motor connector and Z-axis endstop connector shown below.

Connect the X-axis endstop

Make sure it is inserted all the way.

Connect Z-axis motor

Connect Z-axis endstop

Find the two Y cables, on is for the motor, the other for the endstop.

Connect em up!

Connect the hotbed cable, it is keyed, once inserted, twist the locking ring.

Connect the hotend cable, it is keyed, once inserted, twist the locking ring.

Choose your voltage!

This is how I rock 220V in the USA!

Connect the filament sensor.  If you don’t want to use it there will be a little chip that is on the end of the cable.

Tighten up and align the remaining rollers… use the eccentric nuts as shown.  The rollers should not spin freely ones you are tight, do not over tighten.

Left side…

Right side… 

Extruder assembly…  they should all roll smoothly.

Let’s do some preventative maintenance on the hotend.  This fix is based on The Hot End – Channel.  I know this printer was used.. I know it was returned, there had to be a reason.

New printers from the factory come with gaps between the nozzle and the PFTE tubing.. I recommend fix this for brand new machines.

Loosen the hotend compression fitting

Heat up the hotend

Look at that… no good!  It was leaking.

Look down the throat… 

Jam some spare PTFE tubing through.. 

Yup.. there was a booger in there!

That was reason one this printer was returned.

Get out!

New nozzle in this case to ensure no issues.  If you buy replacement nozzles, ensure they are for an MK-8 Hotend!  Here they are on the Creality store on eBay.

Clip that PTFE back

All the way to the scarring on the tube.

Cool it down.. 

Add some WD-40 PTFE Dry Lube

Get some!

A little down the throat… 

Let it dry

Catch the drippin’s!

Good to go!

Make sure you drive the PTFE deep.. don’t stop short of the nozzle.

Put the compression fitting on.. 

Tighten it up.

Jam it in there until it stops.

If you aren’t sure, use the small wrench to press down the compression lock and push some more.

Just like that… 

Clip the extruder end.

Spray some PTFE dry lube on a napkin and wipe the tube.. 

Just a bit will do.

Look how far you need the PTFE to go into the compression fitting, don’t stop short.

Break out your connector locks and clips that were listed above.

Just need one.

Bad-a-bing!

Cable clips, I use four.

Gorgeous.

Let’s make sure it’s level and won’t bind!  See this walk-thru for more detail on leveling

https://makersteve.com/2018/03/24/manually-leveling-your-creality-cr-10-or-cr-10s-or-just-about-any-marlin-based-3d-printer/

Check the surface the printer is sitting on.. yeah, I know.. OCD.

Align the gantry with the power off..  should match the upper horizontal of the frame.

Loosen the screws on that support the leadscrew.. they should just be snug, this will prevent binding.

Verify your lead screws are generally the same distance from the frame the whole way up..  left and right side..  I use three points, top, middle, bottom.  Within a mm is good to go.

I level the bed to the lowest point of the hotend to ensure the tip does not hit the surface.

Manually test the motors and extruder, fan and hotend..

All three axis.. 

X

Y

Z

To test the extruder, you have to heat the hotend or a safety will not allow it to move.

Test the fan.. 

Heat up the nozzle… 

Now move the extruder..

Ready to go..

I prepared a mirror to replace the broken glass as shown https://makersteve.com/2018/03/25/getting-your-print-to-stick-on-your-3d-printer/

Scratch it up!

Apply some Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick

Heat it up… feed it with filament, you are ready to go.

  Not a bad first layer.. 

A little adjustment to retraction.  

Great bottom layer.

That’s it..   I will go over Aluminum Extruder Installation shortly.

There is a ton of other useful stuff on Makersteve.com and more coming every week.

Be sure to check out my Ultimate Build Guide for Creality Ender 3

If you find this useful, please consider purchasing products through any of the links on the page, it’s free to you and I get a little something for my time.  Or, just go shopping at Amazon or Ebay  or Gearbest.

You can also support me through Patreon with as little as a dollar a month.

Happy Printing,

Steve

Ultimate Build Guide for Creality CR-10S / CR-10 – Step by Step – A MakerSteve Special Report This build guide contains the out of the box upgrades I highly recommend for any CR-10.

[fotophilosophy]

In this post, I will describe the build process for the scope.

Modifying Hexagons for Truss Attachment

By far the most nervous part of the build was when I had to put holes into the hexagons. The whole scope would be built around these hexagons, and damaging them would have been disastrous. Furthermore, the hexagons were so beautiful, that even if it were not structurally compromised, marring their surfaces would have been a crime.

M8 holes were drilled into the hexagons, and M6 brass threaded inserts hammered into them for attachment of the trusses.

It was reasonably easy to drill the holes into the hexagons because they were so well built and rigid. Threaded brass inserts are then hammered in to create the mounting points.

Rocker Box

The rocker box was by far the hardest bit to make. I planned to use the Lazy Susan circular discs as the side bearings. Semi-circles had to be cut into the side panels that were just slightly larger than these discs, so that there is room for the PTFE bearings to be mounted.

To do this, I used the circle cutting rig to make circular cut-outs, about 3mm larger than the discs. Then, I clamped the cutouts to the side panel and passed a bearing-tipped router bit, which allows you to replicate a profile on another panel, over the side panel in 3-5mm depth increments. Incidentally, this is a great way to make panels with identical profiles.

A bearing-tipped router bit allows panels with identical profiles to be fabricated.

Next, I shaped the corners of the rocker box to make sure it looks more pleasing. I assembled the panels together, holding them together with a combination of wood glue and screws. A hole was drilled into the base of the rocker box and a brass bushing was inserted to prevent excessive wear on the drilled hole. A ring of fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP) was attached to the base. All these parts were removed for varnishing after the test fit, and replaced for permanent fixture.

FRP ring and brass bushing were fixed temporarily onto the rocker box.

The ground board was made from the larger circular disc of the Lazy Susan. Looking at the image below, it is clear that the circle is slightly undersized. But practically this is no big problem.

The ground board is made from the larger lazy susan disc, as well as 3 rubber feet from an old (and broken) table-top Dobsonian mount.

A T-Nut is hammered into the lazy Suzan, and a long M6 screw is threaded into the T-Nut, fixed in place using epoxy. The metal screw is then threaded through the brass bushing, which prevents the screw threads from cutting into the wood. Three pieces of 3mm thick PTFE are arranged in a triangle, upon which the FRP ring sits and rotates.

The long M6 screw protrudes from the ground board, and threads through the rocker box. Also seen are the three PTFE discs.

As mentioned before, the scope had been designed to work with encoders (more on that later). The long M6 screw is rigidly mounted to the ground board, and serves as a stationary reference point from which the angle of rotation (or azimuth) is calculated. The encoder disc is threaded onto the M6 screw via a brass insert and held in place using Loctite. Loctite is a special chemical, known as a threadlocker, that flows easily into screw threads, and reacts in the presence of metal to polymerize and harden. Different metals react at different rates, an in this case the threadlock hardened in about 15 minutes. A set of roller bearings sit under the encoder disc, and permits smooth rotation while allowing the disc to be screwed on very tightly.

Encoder disc is made using a thin, 6mm plywood, with a 6mm wide timing belt glued to the outside. The fit of the belt over the disc had to be finessed, so the disc was cut slightly larger and slowly and painstakingly sanded down. A brass insert is glued to the middle and held in place via the long M6 screw, and Loctite threadlocker.

Truss Tube Preparation

The trusses are made from 12mm OD, 10mm ID aluminum tubes. Previously, I had clamped tubes in a vice to make the trusses for my Ultraportable. While this worked reasonably well, the tubes cracked from the stress of clamping. The correct way to do this is actually to perform an annealing step first. Briefly, what needs to be done is to heat the aluminum tube before clamping. This softens is a lot, making shaping it easy and crack-free. However, excessive heating can cause the metal to lose strength suddenly, so the usual trick is to use a Sharpie marker to color the aluminum. Then, a torch is used to heat the metal up until the Sharpie marks are burnt off. That’s the sign that the metal is hot enough, but not too hot. Then. place it in the vice and clamp! Perfectly flattened trusses every time.

Secondary Mirror Assembly

The secondary holder is 3D printed using PLA, and M3 brass inserts are hammered in to create the mounting points for the curved spider vanes, as well as the collimation screws.

The spider vanes are made from 1mm thick aluminum sheets that were cut into 12mm thick strips. As before, the aluminum is heated and bent sharply. The curvature is imparted on the strips by first wrapping the aluminum onto slightly undersized discs, then stretching them out on a disc that has the final desired curvature. Holes are drilled and the vanes are mounted onto the hub.

Finally, all the aluminum strips are primed and painted, before assembly of the entire upper truss assembly. The secondary mirror is attached to the holder using RTV silicone, while the helical focuser is epoxied into the cut-out on the top hexagon.

Mirror Cell

The mirror cell design underwent many changes over the build process. Ultimately, I settled on this one, where three spring-loaded M6 screws are threaded through T-Nuts, and provide plenty of collimation travel. The springs push down on the triangular piece on which the primary mirror is siliconed. In this way, the spring wouldn’t have to work against gravity all the time. This makes the collimation hold better.

A fan at the back of the mirror cell helps cool the primary down. Unfortunately, and somewhat amusingly, the rigidly-mounted fan caused such vibration that every star became a perfect little elliptical ring!

Original design called for a rigidly-mounted fan on the back of the mirror, which caused excessive vibration.

It became clear that suspension of the fan was necessary. I made a baffle out of a thin piece of plywood, and mounted the fan in a doubly-suspended manner. This took away most of the effects of the fan vibration.

Finishing Up

The trusses, altitude bearing discs, PTFE squares, are now assembled.

The scope worked well, and I was able to get good views of Jupiter, Saturn and Mars using it. After this step, I took the scope apart, varnished the whole rocker box, and made an encoder system. Stay tuned for that!

Planetary Build Series Part 4: Build! In this post, I will describe the build process for the scope. Modifying Hexagons for Truss Attachment…

[sukoptfe-blog]

8 Applications of PTFE Tubing

1. Aircraft Industries PTFE tubings are the non-flammable fluoropolymers that have lower friction coefficient which make them able to work properly under extreme temperature and pressure that's why these tubings are being used in the aircraft industries to wrap the wiring and cables.

2. Automotive Industries In the automobile engine, for fuel evaporation and fuel rails a high quality tubing is used which is made of Teflon PTFE which has low gas permeability.

3. Electrical Industries In electrical industries, to cover the electric wires and cables a high quality Teflon PTFE tubing is used that can bear the high temperature and protect the wire from any cuts. Also, these tubings are avalable in multi-colors that helps to identify the wires during the connection at homes or offices.

4. Medical Apparatus and Devices Fluoropolymers are used in medical industries to manufacture various instruments and devices like drainage tubings, ventilators, earpieces, aprones, gloves and other artificial tissues. Along with these, many functional devices which doctors use in biochemical analysis of human body are also made of the Teflon ptfe.

5. Food Industries In food industries for food processing special rollers are used. To expand the lifeline of these rollers wrap of Teflon FEP roll covers are done which are also non-sticky in nature that helps to maintain the quality of the product.

6. Textile Industries The transfer of chemicals in the pipes used in the textile industries cause corrosion. So, to avoid this problem Teflon TPFE tubings are used and also on the textile rollers the coating of PTFE done.

7. 3D Printing Industries In 3D printing, the filament should be transferred to the printing nozzle which have to perform under high temperature range. Since, the PTFE tubing has high temperature coefficient along with non-sticky nature which helps to easily slip the material from the nozzle so that it is most preferable polymer in the 3D printing industries.

8. Chemical Industries Non-alkali nature of the Teflon PTFE make it able to use in the chemical industries where transfer of the highly sensitive fluids is a common thing.

Tags:teflon ptfe,Teflon,ptfe tubing

[ipguru]

MakerBot Smart Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325

MakerBot Smart Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325

Do not miss this chance to get this product on most inexpensive value.

Pros:

Engineered with improved elements for higher print efficiency

Expertise a seamless workflow from begin of a print to completion

Backed by an in depth High quality Assurance (QA) operation and technical assist group to make sure your success

Based mostly on our testing, it prints for over 700 hours; This quantity is the equal of the next: • 7 massive spools of MakerBot PLA filament• 2,310 meters of filament• 1.44 miles of filament

Get this MakerBot Good Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325

The MakerBot Good Extruder+ is designed to supply reliable, constant efficiency with superior outcomes utilizing MakerBot PLA filament. Inside, improved elements and an enhanced sensor system be sure that your printing course of is clean and dependable from begin to end. Past these improvements, simple swapping means you may take away and change the extruder whereas minimizing downtime. Straightforward to make use of, this extruder ensures larger print success over time. Double the guarantee of its predecessor, the Good Extruder+ is a end result of 160,000 hours of rigorous testing and product design that units a brand new benchmark in 3D printing. Suitable with the MakerBot Replicator Desktop 3D Printer and the MakerBot Replicator Mini Compact 3D PrinterKey Options & Advantages• Engineered with improved elements for higher print efficiency• Expertise a seamless workflow from begin of a print to completion• Backed by an in depth High quality Assurance (QA) operation and technical assist group to make sure your success• Double that of its predecessor• Based mostly on our testing, it prints for over 700 hours. This quantity is the equal of the next: • 7 massive spools of MakerBot PLA filament• 2,310 meters of filament• 1.44 miles of filament• Prolonged PTFE Tube for a drastic discount in clogging• A modular design permits customers to take away and change the extruder with ease• Quicker print begin up and simpler leveling• Cut back downtime by changing a worn Good Extruder+ with out shedding a print• An enhanced sensor system communicates with MakerBot Desktop and MakerBot Cellular to maintain you knowledgeable• Jam detection pauses the printer, permitting for print restoration• The z-homing and leveling sensors allow correct and dependable construct plate leveling.

It’s at all times higher to purchase MakerBot Good Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325 from the the chief on this eCommerce business. They’ve proved their capacity in delivering high quality service after shopping for implausible merchandise from them.

YouTube Video

The post MakerBot Smart Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325 appeared first on IPCAMVOX.

from MakerBot Smart Extruder+ (For Replicator & Mini) MP07325