#S.S.DALEY

[harryphotographs]

Harry attending the S.S.DALEY Womenswear fashion show in London (September 13th, 2024)

[grrl-beetle]

S.S.Daley

[jinsei-pika-pika]

S.S.DALEY Fall 2024

[s-c-kh]

[freshthoughts2020]

[ssdaley]

The making of S.S.Daley SS25 Womenswear beaded skirts. Spry floral arrangements are abstracted by hand painted and applied wooden beads. Aligned in a 1 by 1 grid, the image motif appears pixelated.

[todayontumblr]

Thursday, September 19.

S.S. Daley & Gluck.

Sublime meets sublime. S.S. Daley (@ssdaley) meets the iconic British artist Gluck for the 2225 Womenswear collection—their first full collection, which debuted with a show at the London Fashion Week.

It's a meeting of two aesthetic icons: tailored and utilitarian, femme and elegance. As with all of Daley’s work, it’s about queering traditions, charm, individuality, detail, and the pleasure of wearing clothes. The results are, well, sublime. 

You can find the S.S.DALEY SS25 Womenswear playlist right here. These are songs that reflect the mood of the show, the mood of the studio working towards the show, team favorites, and songs that feel somehow connected to the research narrative. Enjoy.

[twopoppies]

https://www.standard.co.uk/comment/harry-styles-is-a-gay-icon-queerbaiting-b1136121.html

Hi Gina, Have you seen this article?

No. But thank you. I really love what the author had to say! Usually I highlight a few key comments, but I found myself highlighting almost the entire article.

[…]

And that is all well and good, however there does come a time Harry Styles deserves some respect. We know he wasn’t the first man to ever wear a dress. Still, his appearance on the cover of American Vogue in December 2020 felt like a moment. Yes ok, he has pinched a few styling tips and lyrical flourishes from the great male frontmen of our times (David Bowie, Freddie Mercury, Mick Jagger, George Michael, et al). But like Bowie caused a scandal by wearing a Mr Fish dress on his album cover in 1971, Styles does too every time he flaunts another disco coloured, nipple-grazing jumpsuit. At least someone is still trying to push the boundaries.

More than that, though, Styles’ persistent drip feeding of all things “flamboyant” — on the fashion front, credit must go to his longtime stylist Harry Lambert — is exactly the antidote a world in a toxic masculinity choke-hold needs. His own range of unisex nail varnishes? Great. Pictures of him stomping about in little heeled booties and a pearl necklace? It really is delightful to see.

His relationships with queer creatives are a convincing testament to him as a person, too. He launched gender fluid designer Harris Reed’s career when he wore a selection of his blouses on tour in 2018. He did too for S.S.Daley, another queer-centric label, which the singer gave a leg-up to stardom by spotlighting it in his 2020 Golden music video. Taking his support a step further, this month it was announced Styles bought a minority share in the brand.

And on set, the stories that come back are similar. Pat Boguslawski, the movement director best known for his current role at Martin Margiela under John Galliano, worked with Styles on his viral 2020 Beauty Papers cover shoot. Yes, the one where he is naked save for fishnets and loafers.

“He was just incredible,” Boguslawski told me in a recent interview. “It was fascinating to work with someone who is a male but at the same time so open minded and willing to do anything.” First hand testimonies are a good place to start when it comes to reading mega-stars who have their image so tightly controlled (often it’s near impossible to get any sense of true character).

While Styles has not spelled out his queerness in black and white, every plumed, pink ostrich feather coat he normalises makes it a little bit easier for those wanting to express themselves in peace and safety.

It shouldn’t be like that. In fact, it’s sickening. But that’s not Styles’ fault — and by putting it to the forefront of pop culture, he is doing the LGBTQ+ community a solid. To my mind, that is something worth applauding, not tearing down.

Full article here

[myworldofelegance]

S.S.Daley Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear

London Fashion Week

Source: TheImpression.com

Photo / Imaxtree

[goongiveusnothing]

i looked at the ss daley website and that’s some ugly shit right there. it’s grandpa tops and high waisted flare pants. it’s so gucci 2018–19 but less formal and more rich kid whose daddy owns several yachts. it’s try hard cruise wear. i think he’s trying to go back to his more heteronormative fine line era. he’s probably scared to get dylan mulvaney backlash because 1) he’s straight and 2) only pretends to be gay for attention.

very much agree.

he's really stuck in this type of rich white english child from the 1800s look. everything here looks exactly like it'd work in his gucci era, there's no difference.

[cleverhottubmiracle]

TEMPERLEY LONDON, SIMONE ROCHA, ERDEM, BURBERRY and ROKSANDA.The Fringe in all its Bohemian Glory is the Fashion Fad of the Moment, Festooning this Season’s Cinched Waspy Waists – Befitting a Trend for a Fashion Week Famous for its Avant-Garde Legacy.Alexa Chung wears Simone Rocha.Image Credit London Fashion WeekAs celebrities dashed off planes at Heathrow to claim their front row seats at the shows, London was primed for a multi-prong digital-physical hybrid schedule that gave homegrown talent – newbies and stalwarts alike, a platform to showcase their creativity to a global audience.A slimmer season (a sign of the times?) saw number of brands drop out or change format at the last minute. However, the likes of legendary design houses Burberry, Simone Rocha, ERDEM, Roksanda, Temperley London, Sinead O’Dwyer, S.S.Daley, Paul Costello and Emilia Wickstead were present in full force, and presented stellar offerings.As for trends, fabulous fringing was the embellishment of the season, without a doubt. We saw fraying at Roksanda, Burberry and Temperley London, amongst others.The body part that got most attention from the designers this season was the waist: cinched waisted ensembles and hourglass silhouettes ruled the roost.Colours were bold and vibrant, ranging from icy blue to robust burgundy. Tartan and plaid were favourites among the designers (Burberry par excellence), but artistic surface design was seen in a few places (Roksanda for example). Spring’s floral theme also continued blooming.It wasn’t only colours that were bold – full volume and extensive layering featured in many collections, and skirts were notable floor length and often belted.Always a cultural force to be reckoned with – and a fashion week legendary for pushing the boundaries throughout the decades of its existence – London Fashion Week showed, yet again, that despite all the odds it’s still got what it takes.Join us on a little journey celebrating our favourite designers and our key picks from these shows.TEMPERLEY LONDONTemperley London celebrated a quarter of a century of the brand that’s famous for its floaty, ultra-feminine rhinestone embroidered and sequin-encrusted frocks.This season saw a rather eclectic bunch of looks from Temperley London, with a decidedly military influence amongst the usual signature floaty gowns – from brass-buttoned, double-breasted jackets to medals printed and embroidered on suits, dresses, blouses and scarves. (And indeed it turns out the collection was a tribute to Alice Temperley’s son’s great-great-great-great grandfather who fought in the Napoleonic Wars.)Blazers were blingy and brassy, shirts regal and shiny, jacquard was woven in the boldest of regal red, blue and purple, and fringed dresses reminded one of armour. (Note, fringing is perhaps the key trend at London Fashion Week this season.)Military berets across the colour spectrum topped off ensembles perfectly. Oversized boots further served to reinforce the theme.Skinny scarves added to the ‘French’ vibe, and in one’s mind’s eye it’s easy to imagine said model with a baguette under the arm!At Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonERDEMWatch ERDEM’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmvSyJ2ExtwArtist Kaye Donachie, a contemporary and friend of Erdem Moralioglu’s, created the soft and muted abstract watercolour paintings that ran like a thread through this nostalgic collection. In fact, it was a commission of a decade ago to paint Erdem’s late mother and muse, that set in motion the current collaboration.The ultimate storyteller – or ‘painter of portraits’ – Moralioglu has always idolised, and designed for, strong women – from Queen Elizabeth II to Maria Callas. This time it was his mother – and Donachie’s depictions of her – who was in the spotlight.Moralioglu has always had a penchant for vintage styles, and in particular the uber-stylish 1950s with their cinched waists and distinctive (often floral) prints have been firm favourites, and this collection paid tribute to these endearing styles of yesteryear.Embroidered flowers on leather coats and cocoon-style dresses continued the 1950s floral theme. Nipped-in-the-waist dresses were so perfectly in line with the zeitgeist this season, mimicking the distinctive hourglass figures celebrated and showcased by so many designers.At ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMSIMONE ROCHAA beloved tale from her childhood days, the story of the tortoise and the hare, gets new prominence in this season’s offering by Simone Rocha.What started no doubt as traditional preppy looks, got slightly less conventional once they got the Simone Rocha treatment!The collection as a whole seems to be a nostalgic look at Rocha’s signature portfolio over the years, but also homes in on her school years.The bicycle lock hardware featured in some looks no doubt represents the schoolground bicycle shed with its connotations of romance and smoking and the like! Little wonder the school parka and polo shirt got their fair share of attention in this collection, as did the obligatory logo-ed school scarf.Natural shade faux fur was firmly in the spotlight – a nod to the hare in the tale? In fact, cuddly toy hares were carried about like stoles to underscore the point.A wonderful sense of contrast was achieved by the combination of all the different textures – faux fur and shredded satin, for example, looked super fresh together. Pink satin ribbons cascading over the cutest little pair of ‘rabbit’ fur knickers was simply inspired.Tweed boucle and wool coats got ripped to shreds. Floral co-ords and cardigans (a nod to a ‘prim and proper’ teacher’s dress?) featured in Rocha’s story too, as did pastel pink frocks and transparent slip dresses.Rocha allegedly decided a long time ago she’d much rather be the tortoise in the tale – slow and steady, and indeed that’s been the secret of her success over the past 15 years since the birth of her eponymous label. When one can command the likes of A-lister celebrity Alexa Chung to model for you, you certainly have crossed the finishing line in style.At Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaBURBERRYWatch Burberry’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRxFnInXEqsCreative director Daniel Lee took inspiration from aristo-film Saltburn (2023), saying, “I really enjoyed the characters, and how the people lived in this old incredible mansion house, and dressed in a really eccentric way for dinner, and had crazy parties.” And so, most befittingly, this most British of all British brands created an A/W offering that is eccentric, bohemian and classy – and classic Burberry.The quintessential tartans and plaids were there, so were the usual suspects leather, damask, jacquard, velvet and wool.The knitted dresses with truckloads of fringing swished and swayed as models walked, culminating in coats that were so densely fringed they could be mistaken for one’s sheep dog (or your mop!).Tops constructed from tapestries gave a nod to the aristocratic country house estate or castle, these tapestries depicting typical hunting scenes and other countryside landscapes.Jodhpurs, riding boots, head scarves, blanketry, fur and the archetypal kilt featured across many renditions, just in case the point wasn’t obvious enough: this is a range inspired by the British country set, but one that no doubt the entire globe will want to lay their hands on.Other exceedingly covetable pieces included the leather biker and bomber jackets, the roomy parkas, the silk house coats and the divine pyjamas. Not to mention the plaid leather carry-all hand bags…In fact, the British winter looks pretty attractive armed with a few of these ultra-covetable pieces. Bring on A/W 2025/6!At BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryROKSANDAWatch Roksanda’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS0rrymBiPgThe queen of wearable art presented a collection that was the ultimate confirmation of everything we know and love about the brand.Roksanda’s fabulous sense of colour blocking and ability to effortlessly create phenomenal sculptural and architectural silhouettes were no doubt at the centre of this offering.The bold shapes were nothing short of an engineering feat! 3-D shapes in rigid fabrics across what seemed like a random colour palette, read like wearable pieces of sculpture.The oversized pieces of tailoring were easily as dramatic as the monochromatic chartreuse and shocking pink ensembles. And yet, without changing gear Roksanda can slide back into the softest of drapery.It seems, whatever this magician touches, the end result is always striking, uber-theatrical and deliciously unpredictable.Roksanda’s women are successful creatives and intellectuals who light up these statement pieces… it goes without saying that Roksanda Ilinicic does not design for wilting wall flowers!At RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaGOODBYE FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK 2025/6!For any questions/feedback regarding the above mentioned designers/brands, please do contact us anytime by clicking here Source link

[norajworld]

TEMPERLEY LONDON, SIMONE ROCHA, ERDEM, BURBERRY and ROKSANDA.The Fringe in all its Bohemian Glory is the Fashion Fad of the Moment, Festooning this Season’s Cinched Waspy Waists – Befitting a Trend for a Fashion Week Famous for its Avant-Garde Legacy.Alexa Chung wears Simone Rocha.Image Credit London Fashion WeekAs celebrities dashed off planes at Heathrow to claim their front row seats at the shows, London was primed for a multi-prong digital-physical hybrid schedule that gave homegrown talent – newbies and stalwarts alike, a platform to showcase their creativity to a global audience.A slimmer season (a sign of the times?) saw number of brands drop out or change format at the last minute. However, the likes of legendary design houses Burberry, Simone Rocha, ERDEM, Roksanda, Temperley London, Sinead O’Dwyer, S.S.Daley, Paul Costello and Emilia Wickstead were present in full force, and presented stellar offerings.As for trends, fabulous fringing was the embellishment of the season, without a doubt. We saw fraying at Roksanda, Burberry and Temperley London, amongst others.The body part that got most attention from the designers this season was the waist: cinched waisted ensembles and hourglass silhouettes ruled the roost.Colours were bold and vibrant, ranging from icy blue to robust burgundy. Tartan and plaid were favourites among the designers (Burberry par excellence), but artistic surface design was seen in a few places (Roksanda for example). Spring’s floral theme also continued blooming.It wasn’t only colours that were bold – full volume and extensive layering featured in many collections, and skirts were notable floor length and often belted.Always a cultural force to be reckoned with – and a fashion week legendary for pushing the boundaries throughout the decades of its existence – London Fashion Week showed, yet again, that despite all the odds it’s still got what it takes.Join us on a little journey celebrating our favourite designers and our key picks from these shows.TEMPERLEY LONDONTemperley London celebrated a quarter of a century of the brand that’s famous for its floaty, ultra-feminine rhinestone embroidered and sequin-encrusted frocks.This season saw a rather eclectic bunch of looks from Temperley London, with a decidedly military influence amongst the usual signature floaty gowns – from brass-buttoned, double-breasted jackets to medals printed and embroidered on suits, dresses, blouses and scarves. (And indeed it turns out the collection was a tribute to Alice Temperley’s son’s great-great-great-great grandfather who fought in the Napoleonic Wars.)Blazers were blingy and brassy, shirts regal and shiny, jacquard was woven in the boldest of regal red, blue and purple, and fringed dresses reminded one of armour. (Note, fringing is perhaps the key trend at London Fashion Week this season.)Military berets across the colour spectrum topped off ensembles perfectly. Oversized boots further served to reinforce the theme.Skinny scarves added to the ‘French’ vibe, and in one’s mind’s eye it’s easy to imagine said model with a baguette under the arm!At Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonERDEMWatch ERDEM’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmvSyJ2ExtwArtist Kaye Donachie, a contemporary and friend of Erdem Moralioglu’s, created the soft and muted abstract watercolour paintings that ran like a thread through this nostalgic collection. In fact, it was a commission of a decade ago to paint Erdem’s late mother and muse, that set in motion the current collaboration.The ultimate storyteller – or ‘painter of portraits’ – Moralioglu has always idolised, and designed for, strong women – from Queen Elizabeth II to Maria Callas. This time it was his mother – and Donachie’s depictions of her – who was in the spotlight.Moralioglu has always had a penchant for vintage styles, and in particular the uber-stylish 1950s with their cinched waists and distinctive (often floral) prints have been firm favourites, and this collection paid tribute to these endearing styles of yesteryear.Embroidered flowers on leather coats and cocoon-style dresses continued the 1950s floral theme. Nipped-in-the-waist dresses were so perfectly in line with the zeitgeist this season, mimicking the distinctive hourglass figures celebrated and showcased by so many designers.At ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMSIMONE ROCHAA beloved tale from her childhood days, the story of the tortoise and the hare, gets new prominence in this season’s offering by Simone Rocha.What started no doubt as traditional preppy looks, got slightly less conventional once they got the Simone Rocha treatment!The collection as a whole seems to be a nostalgic look at Rocha’s signature portfolio over the years, but also homes in on her school years.The bicycle lock hardware featured in some looks no doubt represents the schoolground bicycle shed with its connotations of romance and smoking and the like! Little wonder the school parka and polo shirt got their fair share of attention in this collection, as did the obligatory logo-ed school scarf.Natural shade faux fur was firmly in the spotlight – a nod to the hare in the tale? In fact, cuddly toy hares were carried about like stoles to underscore the point.A wonderful sense of contrast was achieved by the combination of all the different textures – faux fur and shredded satin, for example, looked super fresh together. Pink satin ribbons cascading over the cutest little pair of ‘rabbit’ fur knickers was simply inspired.Tweed boucle and wool coats got ripped to shreds. Floral co-ords and cardigans (a nod to a ‘prim and proper’ teacher’s dress?) featured in Rocha’s story too, as did pastel pink frocks and transparent slip dresses.Rocha allegedly decided a long time ago she’d much rather be the tortoise in the tale – slow and steady, and indeed that’s been the secret of her success over the past 15 years since the birth of her eponymous label. When one can command the likes of A-lister celebrity Alexa Chung to model for you, you certainly have crossed the finishing line in style.At Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaBURBERRYWatch Burberry’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRxFnInXEqsCreative director Daniel Lee took inspiration from aristo-film Saltburn (2023), saying, “I really enjoyed the characters, and how the people lived in this old incredible mansion house, and dressed in a really eccentric way for dinner, and had crazy parties.” And so, most befittingly, this most British of all British brands created an A/W offering that is eccentric, bohemian and classy – and classic Burberry.The quintessential tartans and plaids were there, so were the usual suspects leather, damask, jacquard, velvet and wool.The knitted dresses with truckloads of fringing swished and swayed as models walked, culminating in coats that were so densely fringed they could be mistaken for one’s sheep dog (or your mop!).Tops constructed from tapestries gave a nod to the aristocratic country house estate or castle, these tapestries depicting typical hunting scenes and other countryside landscapes.Jodhpurs, riding boots, head scarves, blanketry, fur and the archetypal kilt featured across many renditions, just in case the point wasn’t obvious enough: this is a range inspired by the British country set, but one that no doubt the entire globe will want to lay their hands on.Other exceedingly covetable pieces included the leather biker and bomber jackets, the roomy parkas, the silk house coats and the divine pyjamas. Not to mention the plaid leather carry-all hand bags…In fact, the British winter looks pretty attractive armed with a few of these ultra-covetable pieces. Bring on A/W 2025/6!At BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryROKSANDAWatch Roksanda’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS0rrymBiPgThe queen of wearable art presented a collection that was the ultimate confirmation of everything we know and love about the brand.Roksanda’s fabulous sense of colour blocking and ability to effortlessly create phenomenal sculptural and architectural silhouettes were no doubt at the centre of this offering.The bold shapes were nothing short of an engineering feat! 3-D shapes in rigid fabrics across what seemed like a random colour palette, read like wearable pieces of sculpture.The oversized pieces of tailoring were easily as dramatic as the monochromatic chartreuse and shocking pink ensembles. And yet, without changing gear Roksanda can slide back into the softest of drapery.It seems, whatever this magician touches, the end result is always striking, uber-theatrical and deliciously unpredictable.Roksanda’s women are successful creatives and intellectuals who light up these statement pieces… it goes without saying that Roksanda Ilinicic does not design for wilting wall flowers!At RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaGOODBYE FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK 2025/6!For any questions/feedback regarding the above mentioned designers/brands, please do contact us anytime by clicking here Source link

[chilimili212]

TEMPERLEY LONDON, SIMONE ROCHA, ERDEM, BURBERRY and ROKSANDA.The Fringe in all its Bohemian Glory is the Fashion Fad of the Moment, Festooning this Season’s Cinched Waspy Waists – Befitting a Trend for a Fashion Week Famous for its Avant-Garde Legacy.Alexa Chung wears Simone Rocha.Image Credit London Fashion WeekAs celebrities dashed off planes at Heathrow to claim their front row seats at the shows, London was primed for a multi-prong digital-physical hybrid schedule that gave homegrown talent – newbies and stalwarts alike, a platform to showcase their creativity to a global audience.A slimmer season (a sign of the times?) saw number of brands drop out or change format at the last minute. However, the likes of legendary design houses Burberry, Simone Rocha, ERDEM, Roksanda, Temperley London, Sinead O’Dwyer, S.S.Daley, Paul Costello and Emilia Wickstead were present in full force, and presented stellar offerings.As for trends, fabulous fringing was the embellishment of the season, without a doubt. We saw fraying at Roksanda, Burberry and Temperley London, amongst others.The body part that got most attention from the designers this season was the waist: cinched waisted ensembles and hourglass silhouettes ruled the roost.Colours were bold and vibrant, ranging from icy blue to robust burgundy. Tartan and plaid were favourites among the designers (Burberry par excellence), but artistic surface design was seen in a few places (Roksanda for example). Spring’s floral theme also continued blooming.It wasn’t only colours that were bold – full volume and extensive layering featured in many collections, and skirts were notable floor length and often belted.Always a cultural force to be reckoned with – and a fashion week legendary for pushing the boundaries throughout the decades of its existence – London Fashion Week showed, yet again, that despite all the odds it’s still got what it takes.Join us on a little journey celebrating our favourite designers and our key picks from these shows.TEMPERLEY LONDONTemperley London celebrated a quarter of a century of the brand that’s famous for its floaty, ultra-feminine rhinestone embroidered and sequin-encrusted frocks.This season saw a rather eclectic bunch of looks from Temperley London, with a decidedly military influence amongst the usual signature floaty gowns – from brass-buttoned, double-breasted jackets to medals printed and embroidered on suits, dresses, blouses and scarves. (And indeed it turns out the collection was a tribute to Alice Temperley’s son’s great-great-great-great grandfather who fought in the Napoleonic Wars.)Blazers were blingy and brassy, shirts regal and shiny, jacquard was woven in the boldest of regal red, blue and purple, and fringed dresses reminded one of armour. (Note, fringing is perhaps the key trend at London Fashion Week this season.)Military berets across the colour spectrum topped off ensembles perfectly. Oversized boots further served to reinforce the theme.Skinny scarves added to the ‘French’ vibe, and in one’s mind’s eye it’s easy to imagine said model with a baguette under the arm!At Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonAt Temperley LondonERDEMWatch ERDEM’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmvSyJ2ExtwArtist Kaye Donachie, a contemporary and friend of Erdem Moralioglu’s, created the soft and muted abstract watercolour paintings that ran like a thread through this nostalgic collection. In fact, it was a commission of a decade ago to paint Erdem’s late mother and muse, that set in motion the current collaboration.The ultimate storyteller – or ‘painter of portraits’ – Moralioglu has always idolised, and designed for, strong women – from Queen Elizabeth II to Maria Callas. This time it was his mother – and Donachie’s depictions of her – who was in the spotlight.Moralioglu has always had a penchant for vintage styles, and in particular the uber-stylish 1950s with their cinched waists and distinctive (often floral) prints have been firm favourites, and this collection paid tribute to these endearing styles of yesteryear.Embroidered flowers on leather coats and cocoon-style dresses continued the 1950s floral theme. Nipped-in-the-waist dresses were so perfectly in line with the zeitgeist this season, mimicking the distinctive hourglass figures celebrated and showcased by so many designers.At ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMAt ERDEMSIMONE ROCHAA beloved tale from her childhood days, the story of the tortoise and the hare, gets new prominence in this season’s offering by Simone Rocha.What started no doubt as traditional preppy looks, got slightly less conventional once they got the Simone Rocha treatment!The collection as a whole seems to be a nostalgic look at Rocha’s signature portfolio over the years, but also homes in on her school years.The bicycle lock hardware featured in some looks no doubt represents the schoolground bicycle shed with its connotations of romance and smoking and the like! Little wonder the school parka and polo shirt got their fair share of attention in this collection, as did the obligatory logo-ed school scarf.Natural shade faux fur was firmly in the spotlight – a nod to the hare in the tale? In fact, cuddly toy hares were carried about like stoles to underscore the point.A wonderful sense of contrast was achieved by the combination of all the different textures – faux fur and shredded satin, for example, looked super fresh together. Pink satin ribbons cascading over the cutest little pair of ‘rabbit’ fur knickers was simply inspired.Tweed boucle and wool coats got ripped to shreds. Floral co-ords and cardigans (a nod to a ‘prim and proper’ teacher’s dress?) featured in Rocha’s story too, as did pastel pink frocks and transparent slip dresses.Rocha allegedly decided a long time ago she’d much rather be the tortoise in the tale – slow and steady, and indeed that’s been the secret of her success over the past 15 years since the birth of her eponymous label. When one can command the likes of A-lister celebrity Alexa Chung to model for you, you certainly have crossed the finishing line in style.At Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaAt Simone RochaBURBERRYWatch Burberry’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRxFnInXEqsCreative director Daniel Lee took inspiration from aristo-film Saltburn (2023), saying, “I really enjoyed the characters, and how the people lived in this old incredible mansion house, and dressed in a really eccentric way for dinner, and had crazy parties.” And so, most befittingly, this most British of all British brands created an A/W offering that is eccentric, bohemian and classy – and classic Burberry.The quintessential tartans and plaids were there, so were the usual suspects leather, damask, jacquard, velvet and wool.The knitted dresses with truckloads of fringing swished and swayed as models walked, culminating in coats that were so densely fringed they could be mistaken for one’s sheep dog (or your mop!).Tops constructed from tapestries gave a nod to the aristocratic country house estate or castle, these tapestries depicting typical hunting scenes and other countryside landscapes.Jodhpurs, riding boots, head scarves, blanketry, fur and the archetypal kilt featured across many renditions, just in case the point wasn’t obvious enough: this is a range inspired by the British country set, but one that no doubt the entire globe will want to lay their hands on.Other exceedingly covetable pieces included the leather biker and bomber jackets, the roomy parkas, the silk house coats and the divine pyjamas. Not to mention the plaid leather carry-all hand bags…In fact, the British winter looks pretty attractive armed with a few of these ultra-covetable pieces. Bring on A/W 2025/6!At BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryAt BurberryROKSANDAWatch Roksanda’s show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS0rrymBiPgThe queen of wearable art presented a collection that was the ultimate confirmation of everything we know and love about the brand.Roksanda’s fabulous sense of colour blocking and ability to effortlessly create phenomenal sculptural and architectural silhouettes were no doubt at the centre of this offering.The bold shapes were nothing short of an engineering feat! 3-D shapes in rigid fabrics across what seemed like a random colour palette, read like wearable pieces of sculpture.The oversized pieces of tailoring were easily as dramatic as the monochromatic chartreuse and shocking pink ensembles. And yet, without changing gear Roksanda can slide back into the softest of drapery.It seems, whatever this magician touches, the end result is always striking, uber-theatrical and deliciously unpredictable.Roksanda’s women are successful creatives and intellectuals who light up these statement pieces… it goes without saying that Roksanda Ilinicic does not design for wilting wall flowers!At RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaAt RoksandaGOODBYE FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK 2025/6!For any questions/feedback regarding the above mentioned designers/brands, please do contact us anytime by clicking here Source link

[freshthoughts2020]

[ssdaley]

S.S.Daley SS25 Womenswear collection "No suffix, prefix or quotes" was inspired by the life, lovers, work and uniform of the British artist Gluck.

Gluck’s own tailored uniform is echoed in a black wool day coat, worn over a high collar shirt and Daley’s signature roomy pants. A silk twill scarf print of a cross-stitched dalmatian appears on a shirt and matching pleat skirt, slit at the front. Meanwhile, florals on a ripstop trench appear blurred, due to the weaving process: it’s trimmed in ecru leather.

[twopoppies]

S.S.Daley showed the newest collection in Florence, Italy and Steven said his inspiration behind the collection was “E.M. Foster’s novella ‘The Story of a Panic’ about a man who comes to Italy for the first time and experiences a sexual awakening when meeting an Italian man’

I love love love that Harry has not only been supporting this queer brand and from the very first collection but now also has stakes in it. So cool. And makes total sense ♥️

India and I were just talking this morning about how much SS Daley’s style fits Harry’s aesthetic. More so than even Loewe—which is classic and beautiful, but doesn’t have that quirkiness that I, at least, associate with Harry.

I also love what Stokey-Daley says about the inspiration behind his brand:

Flirting with class ideologies, Daley, a working class boy from Liverpool, reinterprets the realm of British elitism via the institution of the British public school. «I think it’s interesting, you know.. looking at codes, which historically belong to Harrow School for example, and figuring out their equivalents of the school culture I’m more familiar with.»

Stokey-Daley quickly became enraptured with the world of regatta races, flowery traditionalism and decadent English aristocracy. «I came across images of a regatta and I had never seen anything like it before… There is something inherently feminine about that hyper-masculine culture.” Amongst a range of referential films, theatrical practitioners and 18th century portraiture, Daley remains influenced by British cult classics: Maurice, Another Country and Brideshead Revisited. Daley questions the structural nature of British heritage and systematic elitism through the lens of ‘homosocial’ theory.

I’ve posted a bit about the brand here since I first became aware of it.