#fiebings

[leatherado]

Fiebing's 20% Off Sale at Leatherado Leather Supply.

Save 20% Off Fiebing's Leather Care, Dyes and Finishes at Leatherado. Use Coupon Code FIEBINGS20. Valid 04-29-25 to 05-15-25.

[maxedes]

george win got me so excited i just randomly ordered a merc cap. and i am usually not a merch person

(i got it second hand of vinted. do NOT buy from the team directly as puma is part of the bds boycott!!)

[jornalgrandeba]

Bahia sedia 41º Encontro Econômico Brasil-Alemanha com foco em comércio bilateral e desenvolvimento sustentável; Ministro Rui Costa e governador Jerônimo palestram

A capital baiana sedia, entre os dias 16 e 17 de junho de 2025, o 41º Encontro Econômico Brasil-Alemanha (EEBA), evento que reúne representantes dos governos, do setor produtivo e de entidades empresariais dos dois países, com o objetivo de fortalecer as relações comerciais bilaterais e ampliar a cooperação econômica entre Brasil e Alemanha. A programação ocorre no campus do Senai-Cimatec, em…

[a-normal-swan]

Still at a very preliminary stage with the cloth parts of my 13th century wardrobe, but the leather parts are coming along nicely.

Belt is vegetable-tanned cowhide from Tandy Leather, with a 13th-century buckle from Gaukler Medieval Wares. The belt pouch is made from a deerskin split from Distant Drums Leather. Both are finished with Fiebing's leather dyes.

[ratstashsstuff]

HEY! do YOU. Yes YOU feel not good enough!?

Well then

PLAY UNDERTALE TRUE PASSAFIST ROUTE

BECAUSE IM FUCKING BALLING MY EYES OUT OF HOW A FUCKING GAME CARES SO MUCH HOLY FUCK THIS LITTLE SHIT MADE ME CRY SO BAD GOD DANM!?!?

[sen-thebootmutt]

hi there! i'm very new to leather and boot care in general (only recently got some fiebing's and huberd's. have been cleaning my boots and those of my friends and I love it so. so much.) and am wondering how you'd recommend starting bootblacking? any equipment recommendations, online or print guides, places to meet folks / find a mentor, etiquette tips, common misconceptions / rookie mistakes, etc?

thanks so much!

Hey, friend! Thanks for your great question, and congrats on getting started!!!

So, first thing I recommend is checking out the literature!! Anyone Can Shine is a great starter resource, and has great info on products, technique, history, the works! A lot of bootblack history and technique is passed orally, so I’d join bootblack groups! The biggest ones I know of are on Facebook and Reddit, so start there!! You’ll also find people advertising events, like the upcoming Take A Stand, a weekend long leather event by bootblacks, for bootblacks, or Bootblack Roundup, a convention meant to share knowledge, skills, and discuss the history and future of bootblacking!!

For starting equipment, it’s pretty accessible and inexpensive. All you need is soap, conditioner, polish, and brushes!! You can get half decent horsehair brushes pretty cheap (one applicator brush, one larger polish/buffing brush) from Amazon or the shoe section of your local big box store like Target or WalMart. For soap, Fiebings is a great start, and most bootblacks use one or more Fiebing products. For conditioner, Huburds is the gold standard for oil tan boots, but when you start getting to garments like jackets and vests, I prefer Obenaufs Heavy LP (also relatively inexpensive and pretty widely available). For polish, use what you have access to! In the USA, Kiwi is the most widely sold, so start there (all the hate on Kiwi is misplaced, imo, it’s a perfectly good product to get you started)!

For mentoring/skillsharing, find your local leather group! Bootblacks are highly sought after by leather clubs, so if you announce a desire to learn, people will pour out of the woodwork to teach you lol. Don’t have a local leather club? Start with the groups I mentioned! You’ll find someone super close to you who would love to talk boot love with you! Additionally, get in the stand! Get your boots done! There’s no better way to learn than by doing, or in this case, being done lmao

Commons misconceptions and beginner mistakes! Bootblacks do more than just boots, and many bootblacks do more than leather! You’ll find bootblacks that love doing neoprene, latex, sneakers, and more! Jackets, caps/hats, chaps, pants, skirts. The list is (near) endless!! For your first time working a stand, take your time! You’re gonna feel the rush of the atmosphere, and maybe even pressure from your client. Be patient, work your technique, and be honest about your skill level. Bootblacking can be erotic and sexy!! If you want to do a scene in your stand, ask your client! What are they interested in doing, or being done to them? Are you feeling submissive or dominant in your stand? Have some sexy fun in your stand!!

One last tip: most bootblacks don’t charge for their services, but never turn down a tip! Even if it’s a swap (I exchanged blacking a pair of leather pants for a guy for a vest he was selling, for example), never doubt your worth. Put your digital payment platforms on a sign, set out a tip jar. Most people know at this point that it’s just good practice to tip your bootblack, so plan accordingly!!

[barnyardjestercosplay]

Minthara WIP 3/?

Dyeing time! I had to mix my own muddy green for the details on the under armor layer (which i call "corsetted armor," i have no term for this thing). I used Fiebings Turquoise and a little bit o black after a lot of testing. There are a lot of crannies in this - i used matte black angelus leather paint to get in there and fill in where my dye sponge couldn't reach.

At this point I was getting down to the wire and was holding out on hope that the dye would settle less blotchy once i went at it with a little neatsfoot oil and a lot of sealing wax.

[captain-charlemagne]

Creation of Edward’s shoulder piece base.

I am not adding all of the details; my Edward will be doing that.

This is a piece of veg tanned leather, wet molded and hole punched. I burnished the edges and dyed the whole thing with Fiebing’s leather dye, then saddle stitched the edge.

[thyfleshc0nsumed]

Hmm shld I make more stuff in like cherry red? The fiebings pro red is actually gorgeous and I have like most of a liter of it, but I felt like ppl weren't that interested in buying red leather so I kinda stopped using it a while ago

[scooby1723]

i think liberty will look better once they finalise the roster bc they arent finding rhythm w the subs

Fiebs is also still missing. Wont get here till Thursday

[journalofawinchester]

Hey SPN fans!

I'm sorry I haven't posted in a few weeks; I have been very busy - I have been going through all of the bonus material from the Supernatural 1-15 Blu-Ray set and I came to the conclusion that my hand made journal was too dark! In my opinion, the journal screencaps I originally took from Season 1 appeared much darker than other seasons, but in some of the bonus material I was able to see the journal's truer colour and it's much lighter than what I ended up with...

So...I just couldn't carry on without starting again...very frustrating and annoying but I couldn't stop thinking about it. This time around I went with 1.5mm thick veg leather instead of 4mm thick cowhide, just purely because it was an absolute nightmare to stitch the first time around - I didn't use a stitching pony or any power tools and was entirely by hand. I also got some better, sharper leather piercing forks which had a much more circle cut opposed to my original slanted holes.

So attempt 2 went very well; learning from mistakes from the first time around. I stayed up all night to get the stitching done and I was very pleased with the result...

The following day I tackled the dyeing process. I went straight in with a dark brown the first time; but knowing now that the journal is actually much lighter than first thought, I used saddle tan from Fiebing's. I applied a base coat in circular motion and left it for a few hours to sink in. I then used a light brown standard dye from Fiebing's and dyed just in certain places, to give the journal a slight worn/distressed look as in the show.

I also bought extra leather this time around in case I mucked up, but I am pleased to say it came out very well - here it is:

I have transferred all the content and pins to the newly finished one and I am much happier about it!

I may, at some point, when I have some time, make another one with the spare leather and put it up for sale on my Etsy shop. Maybe.

I will try my best to post more pages as soon as I can. I am still working hard on other things relating to Supernatural; I now have 19 items available on Etsy from ID cards to book covers to passport props, Journal content and more. Please check it out if you can!

I'm also offering 20% off at the moment for Christmas. Please send me a message if you'd like the discount code!

[jornalgrandeba]

Bahia será sede do Encontro Econômico Brasil-Alemanha 2025

Na segunda-feira (16/06/2025) e terça-feira (17/06/2025), a cidade de Salvador sediará a 41ª edição do Encontro Econômico Brasil-Alemanha (EEBA), considerado o principal fórum bilateral entre os dois países voltado à cooperação empresarial, tecnológica e industrial. O evento será realizado no Senai Cimatec, instituição de referência nacional em educação, inovação e pesquisa aplicada. Desde 1983,…

[branches-in-a-flood]

What's your leather care routine? :D

Hello Anon!

What I do for my leather depends a little bit on what it's for: I have horse stuff, dog stuff, farm/outdoors stuff, Faire gear, daily wear boots and belts, or BDSM gear. I really enjoy leather lol.

Regardless, I use saddle soap and mink oil for the majority of my care. Things get cleaned with saddle soap as often as needed (if getting muddy/dusty/dirty) and conditioned after being cleaned. If the gear isn't getting super dirty, it still gets conditioned with mink oil every few months - more often if it's something that gets wet or stressed frequently. (I do have a boot dryer for the days they get soaked through. Other gear that gets damp for whatever reason gets hung up to dry then cleaned/conditioned the next day.)

Right now I have Fiebing's soap and oil. I've historically used their mink oil when I can, because it's what my dad always used for his hunting gear that he's had for decades, and I can't really argue with it.

I use old T shirt strips for cleaning and conditioning. Normally at least once a year I completely dismantle my boots and harnesses and bridles, cover them in mink oil and let sit while I finish the rest of that item, then use a cloth to rub in what I can and remove the excess. Then let sit for a little while longer and use a new clean cloth to fully "polish" the rest of the oil in. Sometimes it takes me a few rounds to get things fully conditioned, but not greasy.

Note: some dye bleeding and transfer is very common! All of my leather rags are stained! And sometimes the oil does change the leather color so test it out in a less noticeable spot first. I used to have a pair of brown leather farm boots that got much darker the first time I conditioned them, but it worked out in my favor because I loved the mahogany they ended up being.

Tl;dr - saddle soap and mink oil. Condition every few months as needed, but once a year minimum (for things not used often)

[cheusburger]

SHEGS SO CUTE

i have no LUNACY

nje e fieb

[armory-rasa]

Quick update to the guitar strap, and a short demo on antiqueing gels

So last I left off I had finished the tooling on the guitar strap, and since then it’s been kicking around untouched in my workshop while I figure out how I want to dye it. Initially I was thinking it would be nice and help the flowers pop (and also be more identifiable) if they were colored in, but dye isn’t precise enough, and I don’t like paint for objects that are going to be subject to any significant amount of wear and tear. 

So I decided to just put a highlight on it, one that would give the leather a slight stain so it doesn’t look unfinished, and make the design pop. Since antiqueing pastes don’t stain the leather enough, antiqueing gel it was -- and here is an object lesson in why you seal your leather before applying gels.

First off, the color differential is going to be pretty stark. On the left is bare leather, on the right is leather that was sealed with a Fiebings spray wax. Both of them got an application of Eco Flo antiqueing gel in tan: 

And the gel on bare leather came out nothing like what I would call “tan” colored.

Furthermore, I experimented on the test piece I’d done for the guitar strap, because that would give me the most definitive answer on what these processes would look like on the real piece -- same hide, same tooling technique, which matters in determining how a piece is going to take color.

Before:

After -- this is Fiebings antiqueing paste on bare leather, taken with two different cameras to demonstrate that what you’re seeing is not just a trick of the light or the lens: 

Three things of note:

One - The unsealed surface of the leather, which is full of little pores, picked up a LOT of pigment, making it very muddy-looking. It’s not very attractive (unless you’re specifically going for a weathered/aged look), and it reduces the contrast between the tooling and the background, so the design doesn’t “pop” as much.

Two - Leather is a natural material that is always full of natural variation, which is often invisible, or nearly so.... until you dye it. In this case, that diagonal scar in the leather between the leaf and the flower suddenly became very stark. Which, depending on your project, may be fine (or even a feature, like on armor that’s supposed to look well-worn), but it is something to be aware of, and something that can be mitigated by sealing the leather first.

Three - Burnishing down the surface of the leather compresses and closes the pores in the leather, making it absorb less color. Usually this happens when I apply a burnishing rod to smooth down the flat surfaces, but in this case, the pear shader (which I used to give the leaves depth) burnished those areas, making the interior of the leaves strikingly lighter. 

Which, again, may be fine, depending on your design. It’s kind of hard to tell in this picture of the Iznik quiver, but the center of the petals is slightly lighter and more orangeish than the surrounding leather, because they were stamped with the pear shader which made it resist some of the red dye:

And I was happy with how that turned out. (More pictures of it here.) 

But in this case, the leaf interiors just look weird being lighter than the rest of it -- this project really needs to be sealed first, before applying any sort of stain, in order to look good, and so that is what I intend to do.

And this is why you really don’t want to skip doing a test piece, if you’re at all unsure of your project is going to take color. Because dyeing is one of the last steps, and if you screw it up, there’s usually no way to walk it back.

[wickedlittlecritta]

#i gotta get some leather stuff to keep it that way after it's been rained on lol

Fiebing's has a bunch of leather care products. I recommend either their mink oil or aussie conditioner! They feed the leather and help make it more waterproof. That said, with mink oil you need to let it sit for a couple of days.

oooh, thanks for the recs!! i used to have a ton of leather care stuff back when i had horses but i haven't had to get any in the last like. 7 years lol.

also, after a quick google search, i have DEFINITELY used fiebing's stuff before and just forgot the name. you're so right, they're really good