#tbob reference if you squint

[localcelestialcreature62]

GF AU-gust

BABES WAKE UP NEW EVENT JUST DROPPED /ref. Anyway time to draw for. Every fucking gravity falls au that has existed since 2015/2016 to now.

The rules are;

• Draw au characters for the current prompt of the day. Doesn't matter how many. 2,3,whatever. It just has to be relevant to the prompt.

• If you don't know the au,look it up. I'm not responsible for you missing a prompt.

• I included the popular AUs,the newer ones. Follow the boundaries of their creators.

• Ships are allowed. No nsfw however. I am a minor and also aroace. Please. I do not want to get flashbanged with AU porn.

• Add the tag GF AU-gust and @ me so i can see your entries

• Have fun :]]].

Hooo boy time for tags. @nico-the-overlord @antonymziie @cecilscribbles @wind-tail

@greenbunny7 @rizzemwiththetism @leroy21 @rayyanishere1 @tinfoil-jones @kerink @astro-naut9 @jellyskink @aroace-get-out-of-my-face

[roseserpentpress]

i love your tiny gravity falls notebook! what was your process for the spine lettering? i'm in awe that you were able to cut something that small so neatly.

Omg, thank you!!! Yes, the cutting was finicky I have to say... My process per book was slightly different, but happy to explain both:

My process for spine lettering was to print out copies of the spines to the size of the mini book spines; behind the printed titles, I either applied graphite (J3) or white chalk (TBOB), and cut out the tiny spine copies. I'd suggest if you're doing something so small, leaving extra paper tabs on the ends of the spine copies, rather then just cutting out the spine copy themselves (which I did and found suuuuuper finicky). I then lined these copies up on where the spine is on the cover, and with a H grade graphite mechanical pencil went over the printed designs, to transfer the graphite/chalk to the paper. This is my typical way of transferring designs, but it didn't work too great for them because they were so tiny... But I found it gave a good idea of where the lettering SHOULD be, and so I then went over the designs by hand using a mechanical pencil (I usually just generally use 2B) while looking at a reference for the lettering.

Not the spine titles, but similar idea with the cover; you can see the print out, and that I've gone over it to get a transfer.

Originally, I painted both the titles. TBOB took a very long time, and was done with red gouache, and a small paintbrush (I've got paintbrushes for figure painting, so fine detail, as I also sculpt and paint figures). I've also recently got magnifying glasses that you wear, which was VERY helpful (pictured below). I find without them you are liable to make more mistakes. For tiny work, you constantly have to reload the paintbrush with new paint on the very tip; what helps is having a certain paint consistency. If you play around and look at the tip of the paintbrush, whole 'reloading' you'll see what I am referring too. You can see my paintbrush in the below photo.

My magnifying glasses, and TBOB cover with the paintbrush. The white between the letters on the cover is from the chalk transfer, which just gets erased away (I use a gummy eraser)

For J3, I was dissatisfied with the way the titling didn't match the gold on the cover, and so decided to cut out the letters by hand... The gold I used is actually gold origami paper (don't think it's true gold tho, lol). So I turned the paper around, and did the same type of transfer I mentioned above onto the back of the gold paper, making sure the letters were facing backwards (since they'd be cut out opposite), and also had them a good distance apart so it wouldn't be flimsy when I cut them out. For the actual cutting, I used the magnifying glasses mentioned above, and I also replaced the blade of a straight x-acto knife to an entirely new one to minimize the amount of friction and the possibility of tearing that could occur. Then for cutting the letters, I was aware of which areas needed to be cut first for each letter; ie the inside of O, before the outside. Your hand will also have ways it naturally moves (ie drawing towards yourself) vs ways it more awkwardly moves (ie drawing away from yourself); I oriented the gold paper to take advantage of that fact, and cause as little friction/pull in any other direction then the one I wanted it to cut towards. This is of course a bit more difficult with round cuts, but your hand also has ways it prefers to move which I took advantage of. I often used after them being cut out to use these pointed dissecting tweezers to handle the letters. I applied paste to the back of them, and then applied them to the spine. For this you unfortunately do need to have a steady hand... but hope this is helpful!

Can see the tweezers and the x-acto. If you squint you can see the letters that have been transferred by graphite onto the back of the origami paper, by J3, that have yet to be cut out. I left a little extra space around the transfer to keep the letters more accurate to size, and also constantly referred to the actual spine to see how the letters actually looked (the transfer can loose some details).