#its like a dusty sage green which is a colour i really like! it just really doesn't work in my room.. if it was just an accent wall i think

[mumintroll]

going to ask if i can repaint my room for my birthday lol im scareddd i think im going to get berated bc i got to choose what colour i wanted it painted when we moved here 2.5 years ago but ive hated it ever since i moved in ive regretted it from the very start... if i am going to be living in this room for the whole summer i at least want it to be a colour that doesnt depress me

[cleolinda]

Patchouli in perfumery, feat. Snake Oil (Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab)

In the course of writing up Coco Mademoiselle (which I'll post after this), I realized that I need to stop and discuss patchouli first, because: wtf is going on there, seriously. Sylvaine Delacourte explains,

Patchouli has a woody, earthy, humid, dark smell and evokes a colour between brown and black.

(I find this to be true; I always picture a very dark, dark brown when I smell it, even if nothing else in the fragrance makes me think of a color.)

A camphor note molecule is identified in it, it also has almost a dusty scent. Patchouli can be reminiscent of a cork or an overripe apple, some find it smells like mushrooms, cellars and mould. Many perfumers have told me that they can detect a hint of cocoa in good quality patchouli.

On the other hand, as the Perfume Society describes it, in "So you think you hate… patchouli?":

Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence.

May the odds be ever in my favor.

But, the Perfume Society continues,

perfumers wouldn’t be without patchouli, for the richness that it gives to fragrances – and not just those heady Ambrées: patchouli makes its way into many chypre and powdery fragrances, swirling exotically alongside lavender, sandalwood, labdanum and bergamot, clove, clary sage, as well as vetiver. (It’s a little like vetiver, if you close your eyes.) Used alongside rose, it extends and ‘fixes’ rose’s sweetness.

Back to Sylvaine Delacourte: "Patchouli is the most important raw material in perfumery," a statement that really surprised me, but this is the former Artistic Director of Guerlain talking here. She concurs that it "combines beautifully" with woody notes like cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver, adding,

It brings depth and sensuality and is considered by some to be an aphrodisiac, especially when combined with sweet oriental [often called "ambrée" now] notes such as incense, vanilla and cistus. Patchouli can be refreshed by citrus fruits such as bergamot. It is often associated with rose, sometimes with jasmine, a little less with ylang-ylang. Patchouli is also a perfect match for gourmand notes.

Sure enough, Thierry Mugler's Angel (1992) famously combines patchouli and cotton candy (and several fruits) (and caramel) (and chocolate). That's a fragrance I also have on deck to write about; it was a game-changer, no exaggeration, at the time. I had also thought that Angel was considered the first "fruitchouli" (nsfw photo), as such, but apparently that may be... Coco Mademoiselle.

Delacourte also mentions that patchouli is "sensual and charismatic, often replacing mosses in chypre constructions and is essential in oriental compositions." And here comes Coco Mademoiselle again: it's considered a "neo chypre." If you go back to the Mitsouko post I did, you'll see that a classic chypre involves bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum. As Basenotes user purplebird7 neatly explains, "This creates a sweet/sour/earthy/wet/dry combination of notes that makes chypres so complex. [...] New chypres use vetiver instead for the sour/dry component. They also use patchouli for the earthiness, and substitute other citruses for bergamot, the way Coco Mademoiselle uses orange, and [Chanel's] Chance uses citron."

Now, I haven't told you how the word "patchouli" comes from Tamil (patchai ellai, green leaf), or how Tutankhamun had gallons of patchouli oil in his tomb, and how it was worth its weight in gold, literally, to European traders. Or, for that matter, how it came to France via the paisley shawls, layered with insect-repelling patchouli leaves, that were so loved by Empress Eugénie. I didn't mention that patchouli is still very much associated with the "dirty hippies" of the 1960s, who (it's said; I wasn't there) used it to mask either weed or body odor. And I didn't mention any of this because I wanted to focus on how patchouli is used today—and because the hippie thing is extremely cliché. But maybe that's exactly what I should touch on, because:

I don't like patchouli. I do, in fact, Think I Hate Patchouli. Or I did, rather, before I started working on this post. And it's because of the "dirty" smell. Something that's like a combination of fermented basement lichen and the stoner guy I knew in college who took 40 minute showers but never washed his clothes? But since patchouli's in the base of just about everything these days—I decided that I'm going to have to get past that. Rather than use a moralistic term like "dirty," I've started calling the persistent aura that smells like "mushrooms, cellars and mold" The Funk.

And I've noticed that aged patchouli is a lot smoother; The Funk gets less rambunctious with time, and this may be why aged bottles of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab's Snake Oil are so prized. For years, I wasn't even sure what was in it; the original description only mentioned "Indonesian oils sugared with vanilla." But once you find out that 80% of the world's patchouli comes from Indonesia—yeah, you can tell it's the primary note of Snake Oil. BPAL actually sells it pre-aged now, and with a more detailed description:

Snake Oil has shed its skin, and is back — now with vintage patchouli and dark, rich, aged vanilla absolute. Snake Oil is our signature scent, our first perfume: deep, rich, earthy notes swirled with vegetal musks, sugared vanilla bean, and dark spices.

A few nights ago, I pulled out a vial I'd gotten several years back. I remember that Snake Oil was really heady when it was fresh: a vortex of incense, spicy vanilla, and The Funk. This time, it was pure patchouli, albeit a mellow and dignified one; on a second try, I realized I needed to swish the molasses-thick oil back and forth until it was at least somewhat blended again. I then got a unified patchouli-vanilla and what I swear was a very strong ylang-ylang and sandalwood (both of which are cultivated in Indonesia, among other places). It's a good combination; the light, golden sandalwood-ylang note was the only thing I liked about Chanel's No. 5 Eau Première. I know it sounds weird (or immature, even) to say "I like Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab more than Chanel," but Snake Oil picked something to do and did it well, and that something was not giving me a headache or smelling like a diaper.

(But notice that I say I like it more rather than it is better. Skin chemistry is a wild—but incredibly important—card here. Ultimately, there might be a critical consensus on something, but you can only experience what your nose can sense, and what duet the skin of the wearer, yours or someone else's nearby, can produce.)

Come to think of it, Chanel's Jacques Polge may have removed the patchouli from the original No. 5; I didn't see it in the notes for the 1986 formulation still used today. I wonder now if that patchouli served as a bridge between elements that's no longer there, and that's why the extra pared-down No. 5 Eau Première seemed disjointed to me. On the other hand, there are people who think the new No. 5 Eau Première is a masterwork unto itself, and there are people who hate the dizzying baby powder/Play-Doh turn Snake Oil can take. So it goes. I actually think I might prefer fresh Snake Oil, heady as it is, but the aged notes may be more mellow and perhaps more wearable over all (also tenacious as fuck). I may try a new vial of the pre-aged Snake Oil soon and see how the difference splits.

So, aged patchouli: Good! Manageable! Let's try another! I had left a rollerball of Pacifica's Himalayan Patchouli Berry in a drawer for a couple of years; when I first used it (I was trying to broaden my palate!), The Funk was too much. (Side note: This is a weird perfume, in that Pacifica will tell you upfront that it's grapefruit and patchouli, and you can tell it's grapefruit if you mentally squint at it, but it really does smell like some kind of berry. What kind of berry? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) Here in 2023, the fragrance has mellowed out, and it's a lot easier to wear. Also, it proves Sylvaine Delacourte's point about citrus working well with patchouli, whether it's cosplaying as someberry or not.

I also had a fresh Nemat patchouli on hand. This was interesting because it had a little too much Funk for me, but it was also the first time I'd been able to smell a vetiver-like note in a patchouli. And by this time, I'd worn both Coco Mademoiselle and Snake Oil twice; my nose was tolerating patchouli better overall. After a year or so, this could smooth out into something really nice.

So: you can render patchouli more crowd-pleasing with the slow ingredient of time. What if you just used science? The Perfumer's Apprentice sells a natural patchouli oil that's undergone fractional distillation, which "produces a more elegant smell with less earthy tones, similar to the flower itself." On the other hand, Firmenich straight-up uses white biotechnology (today I learned!) to synthesize its Clearwood aromachemical:

Beaming with light, it offers the creamy warmth of amber and a dark woody character reminiscent of patchouli. [...] At higher dosages it can be used as a new building block. Rich in patchoulol, CLEARWOOD® can elegantly complement a patchouli essential oil.

I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing some kind of defunked patchouli, be it fractionally distilled or wholly synthetic, is what's in Coco Mademoiselle, which has a very elegant patchouli base. I mean, it also busts out harsh and peppery at first, but there is no actual Funk, oddly enough. But we'll get to that in the next post, now that you have the background.

Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel, 2001) and Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée (2020)

Perfume discussion masterpost

[ifridiot]

cryptid, rock, neon lights, ghost, grave, neighbour, fae, deer

Cryptid: what kind of otherworldly / cryptid / folklore being do you identify with the most and why?

This is a very hard question for me to answer, I have a very hard time identifying with anything without being told look specifically by other people that I remind them of that thing. I don't think that anybody has ever really likened me to too many other creatures concept aesthetics that kind of thing sure but not so many, like... creatures.

That being said, I often have associated myself with werewolves. There's something that really draws me to the concept of a being that can change its shape, that might look harmless at one moment and then in another circumstance becomes very dangerous and very obviously predatory or imposing and threatening. I have always especially been drawn to stories about werewolves where the werewolf is more sympathetic, rather than the concept of a creature that loses all humanity and can't do anything but savage those around it. I don't really find that to be a compelling narrative at the best of times, much less something that I would really think of myself in connection to. I think I tend to be extremely humane in most of my interactions, regardless of whether I am hurt or upset or not thrilled with the person who is trying to talk to me.

Rock: things you collect?

I collect notebooks. I absolutely adore having something that I can just pick up and write in, to the extent that I have notebooks that live in specific locations so that I always have one on hand. There's a notebook that lives in my bag that goes with me everywhere I go. There's another notebook that lives on the table next to my chair in the living room, and there are many notebooks that live in the bookcase beside my bed.

Another thing I collect is knives. I don't have very many of them anymore, because when I moved out of my dad's place I couldn't really take whole ton with me, but (marge simpson voice:) I just think they're neat. I keep a really fancy ornate one on a display stand that's on top of my dresser, and I have one that shaped like a whale that I got from a friend of mine, and it lives in its sheath because it's very sharp, in the bookcase that's beside my bed. I would really like to get more again at some point

I also collect recipes, especially baking recipes. I really love cooking, and I find it very useful to be able to pull up the exact recipe for something that me and my sister enjoyed, so I can cook it again. So I have lots of bookmarks from when I look recipes up online, just tons of bookmarks. And I have a whole folder of recipes that I've typed up from making shit up on the fly, which I love sharing.

Neon lights: what's your aesthetic?

I always have a really hard time with this question, too. Kind of like the cryptid question, I have a hard time visualizing myself, or seeing enough of myself from an outsider's perspective to really say if the things that I consider my aesthetic actually come across in any real way. Which is to say, I don't know that somebody walking into my space or looking at my blog would necessarily see my aesthetic the way that I see things as being my aesthetic.

Very babbling way of saying, “here are some aesthetic concepts I really like but I don't know if they show up in any way that anybody would ever notice that I actually like them.”

I really love bones and teeth, especially paired with flowers. I like crows and ravens and little finches and sparrow-y song birds. I am very into a sort of goth/punk sort of look with layered clothes and spikes on things... I really like putting pins and buttons on my denim jacket, and I am working on designing a piece to either paint or stitch onto the back of that jacket. As far as interior design aesthetic goes, strong I like lots of plants and like Earth tones in greens and blues, like sages and dusty blues for the wall colours and then lots of shelves to display things on…  lots of plants and lots of big windows to let in light,  but with actual curtains because I like to have some privacy. Wood floors with nice rugs, as opposed to carpet.  I like a very clean kind of decorating without a lot of centralized clutter (I prefer the clutter on shelves, so my blind ass doesn’t get tripped). I guess kind of like a soft cottagecore kind of look. And then add in some very vulture culture details mixed into that, some bones and furs and stuff. Love that kind of shit.

Ghost: have you ever had a paranormal experience?

Yeah I have had a lot of them, especially from when I was a kid growing up in this one really old, shitty house. The one that comes to mind most clearly is this:

I must have been about seven or eight, and I went to my parents’ room to do something – i’m pretty sure I was supposed to put away an armload of clothes. My parents’ room in that house had really bad vibes, like it just felt really spooky almost all the time and I never wanted to be in there by myself.

On this particular occasion, the lights were off and the blackout curtains were drawn so my father, who worked midnights, could sleep. I remember that it was super dark and cool compared to the rest of the house, but in the light from the hall and behind the curtains it wasn’t impossible to see.

Dad’s dresser was across the room, past the bed, from the door. In the corner farthest back from the door, deepest into the room, it was all shadow, and on this particular excursion, I remember something like a piece of shadow breaking from all the rest of the dark back there, and sort of sliding across the ceiling to weight over the dresser. When I stepped forward, intending to ignore this thing, it sort of dripped down, like a very heavy, viscous fluid, to stretch from floor to ceiling.

I absolutely ran, because I’d seen enough horror movies and I didn’t want to die.

Grave: what do you think happens after we die?

Dog, I have no idea. In a less... public forum I might be willing to talk about my really weird theory of everything, But it's extremely long, extremely involved, and I definitely sound like like the insane person that I am when I start talking about it. So not here and not now.

Neighbour: if you lived in an eerie town in the middle of nowhere, one of those where everybody knows something is wrong, but nobody talks about it, what would your role be?

Okay, so I absolutely insist that, in this scenario I am able-bodied enough to hold a job. I am the bookstore owner / employee who gives advice to travelers but in a really ominous, like, ‘get the fuck out while you can’ kind of way. I absolutely take no shit from anybody, I'm married to the town so I won't leave, but I want everybody to survive so I'm definitely giving people advice…

Unless I don't like them, in which case they can eat shit.

Fae: wings or fins?

Wings, absolutely every time. I'm not afraid of heights, I absolutely believe if I had been born with wings I would be a much different physically shaped person. That is to say, I feel like wings are one of those body parts that, were they naturally occurring and part of me, would have kept me inclined to being much more physically active and I probably would not be as dramatically overweight.  I absolutely would be the kind of person who just fucking flies places.

Deer: antlers or fangs?

I think that it is absolutely a hate crime specifically against me that I am being asked to pick one or the other.

I should be allowed to have both, and I would have the most glorious, gigantic fucking multi-pronged deer antlers, and just like absolutely massive fangs, like the male orcs from World of Warcraft tusks except where your upper canines are, just massive...

actually, can we be real and just say I absolutely have tusks like orcs as well?

[kentonramsey]

5 Stylish Women On Their 2021 Fashion Resolutions

What did 2020 teach you about your personal style? Did you happily embrace comfy and cosy loungewear or did you mourn the lack of opportunities to dig out your best evening looks? Did you make a sustainability commitment, or do a charity shop-ready spring clean? Maybe you realised you’d never carry an impractical micro bag again or perhaps you’re chomping at the bit to slip on your fanciest heels.

After a year during which our wardrobe stayed mostly packed away, unworn on dance floors, sunny beaches or at board meetings, many of us will be looking differently at the clothes we own. Life certainly won’t be returning to the old ways any time soon, meaning that our clothes must adapt to our new normal. Whether you’re embracing a pared back capsule wardrobe or using every opportunity to play with colour and print, there’s a freedom that comes with taking the time to reassess the clothes you wear and the way you express yourself.

To inspire us, we asked five of our Instagram feed’s most stylish women to tell us what they learned about their style in 2020, what they’re leaving behind and what they’ll be taking forward with them into the new year.

Abisola Omole

How did your personal style change, evolve and adapt to 2020?

“Ironically, even though I wasn’t going out regularly, I feel like I really came to understand my personal style better than ever before. I was experimenting more and became more open to trying new things and evidently feel like I’m in a place where I dress with a lot more ease. In terms of specifics, the main aspect is that I’m the most comfortable and confident I’ve ever been. I’m not second guessing my looks as much and I’m remaining open to trying new things.”

What are you taking with you into 2021?

“Celebrating the everyday. It’s the ethos that my brand arva runs on but it’s also one that I adopted in my style in 2020 and I hope I continue that into 2021. It doesn’t necessarily mean I’ll be wearing a ballgown every day, just that even when no one sees me or I’m not going anywhere, ensure my outfit brings me happiness, no matter how over the top it may feel in contrast to my schedule.”

And leaving behind?

“Tight-fitting jeans or trousers. I’ve slowly phased them out already but in 2021 it’s unlikely you’ll be seeing me in any skinny fitting jeans…”

Which item or outfit can’t you wait to wear in 2021? 

“To be honest, in 2020 I wore more of my wardrobe than ever before. I suppose in 2021 I’m more looking forward to wearing a few recent wardrobe additions in situ, rather than just at home. A few recent additions to my wardrobe include Georgia Hardinge’s Mila dress, which I’ll wear to an evening or red carpet event, and Faithfull the Brand’s Dallia mini, which I plan on wearing while walking along a beach somewhere…”

Which three items are you wishing for this year?

“I’m obsessed with these Nike trousers. I have them in grey and black but I’m hoping they release them in all kinds of cool colours, including beige, sage green, dusty pink, pale blue — I could go on. Secondly, a few dresses from Adoore that went out of stock in my size. Also, anything on the ‘new in’ page of 11 Honore – whether it be a piece from Brandon Maxwell, Sachin & Babi or Carolina Herrera, its edit of plus-size designer items is incredible.”

Michelle Li

How did your personal style change, evolve and adapt to 2020?

“I think 2020 was the year I learned how to edit (in all aspects of my life but especially with fashion). I got rid of a lot and became more okay with paring things down and making outfits more simple. I’m no longer wearing the outfits that are the loudest but instead gravitating towards the outfits that make me feel like a different iteration of me! I started 2020 off really rocky; I felt this mounting pressure to make every outfit awesome and ended up feeling really disappointed in myself when I just had the urge to wear something simple like jeans and a blazer. There was so much going on that I didn’t want to expend the mental energy worrying about wearing something that felt very ‘me’ and I wasn’t feeling inspired by anything. I was just trying to get through the days and that indifference to what I was wearing – compounded with everything else going on – made me feel even worse. I felt like I had lost this special part of myself that I loved and I would never get it back. As the year evolved, though, I told myself it’s okay if not every outfit you wear is amazing, it doesn’t diminish your self-worth and make you less of who you are. I let myself follow my intuition more and wear what I wanted to wear. When I was feeling inspired, I would push myself more and run with it but on days where I felt already overwhelmed, I’d tell myself that it’s okay to just wear what I wore yesterday or nothing at all.” 

What are you taking with you into 2021?

“I’m going to take more time on the process of putting together an outfit and not let myself get lazy, or settle, or give up. If I have a moment of inspiration I want to push myself a little bit to get an outfit to where I want it to be. In 2020, I would let my outfits marinate. I would start with something on Monday and try all different types of iterations throughout the week. By Sunday, I would have found three to four versions that I can wear again and again! Being at home all the time, I had the opportunity to always be switching things up, a different sweater to go and get coffee or a better shoe for my evening walk. It’s a fun, more patient, more forgiving process.”

And leaving behind?

“The pressure of standing out with what I wear. The fear of having my personality be judged based on what I wear. Seeing myself through the lens of boys and dressing based on that (I used to let boys’ comments on my outfits echo in my head when I was getting dressed but tbh they don’t know what they’re talking about and idk why I ever gave them that power).”  

Which item or outfit can’t you wait to wear in 2021?

“I finally bought a Charlotte Knowles bustier during the SSENSE sale and it has really reignited and re-inspired me! I’m having so much fun building all different types of outfits around it. I’m a huge fan of how Georgia Pendlebury styles the collection and love to reference it and try to recreate it with the pieces in my closet. I’ve been doing a lot of knit pants and big layers on top styling.” 

Which three items are you wishing for this year?

“Nanushka will always be my #1 brand that I look at when I’m trying to bring something classic but unique into my wardrobe. I love this new light pink leather that they’re doing and am already brainstorming the different colour combos. The amazing quality of their clothing is just the cherry on top.

I always felt like it was inconsistent for me to wear something ‘sexy’ but this year I’m not putting myself in boxes anymore! Tank Air does a truly beautiful job creating pieces that make you feel so, so good. It’s special and I look forward to embracing the different sides of myself.

I think 2021 is the year that I really get into knits. I’ve always had an affinity for them but now I want to learn more about the different yarns and stitches and understand all the facets of knitwear. I’m also picking up knitting so I’m going all in! I love Carcel‘s mission and their clothing is so soft. This pencil skirt lets me be laid-back on the days I’m feeling it.”

Harmony Youngs

How did your personal style change, evolve and adapt to 2020?

“My style really came into its own in 2020 – I felt more confident than ever before, dressing purely how I wanted to. There are so many beautiful pieces that I’ve been collecting that have just sat in my wardrobe, waiting for an occasion to come along that I can wear them to, as they’ve always felt a little ‘too much’ for daily wear. But with the pandemic – having to stay at home, gradually being able to venture outside more as summer arrived – I began to appreciate the art of dressing up more, and doing so for myself more than anything or anyone else.

What’s the point in buying these pieces if I’m consistently making excuses to not wear them? In my head I’m like, Okay I’m going to save this for a warm holiday in the south of France, that’s when I should wear it, I’ll hold out for then. But in these times we’re living in I could be waiting years for that to happen so I let go of this mentality and found myself dressing up more. It felt so nice to wear ’70s prairie dresses for picnics in the park and having done that it’s helped me to care less and stop putting restrictions on what I truly like to wear.” 

What are you taking with you into 2021?

“I’ll continue my focus on buying vintage, secondhand and from smaller and more niche brands. I cut out high street purchases massively last year and found that by doing so it’s helped me form a more authentic personal style. Supporting smaller businesses and brands also feels like a more rewardable shopping experience.”

And leaving behind?

“Impulse buying. Granted, it temporarily makes you feel good and can fill a void – but for how long and at what cost? I’ve been guilty of indulging in impulse buys countless times, spending money unnecessarily on clothes I haven’t truly wanted or, more importantly, needed. It’s wasteful, and it’s contributing to the climate crisis that the fashion industry fuels. I keep browser tabs open and Instagram posts saved of items I like, and give it a lot of consideration before I take the plunge in buying. That way you give yourself the time to think the purchase through: have you got items in your wardrobe you can wear it with? Can you wear it in multiple seasons? Am I really going to get the cost’s worth out of this?” 

Which item or outfit can’t you wait to wear in 2021?

“I bought a few special dresses from the ’40s at the beginning of autumn last year after spending all summer trying to find affordable ones and being unsuccessful. Obviously, the older a vintage piece is, the higher the value, so you’re looking at spending a fair amount when buying something from that era. I struck gold in a Lincolnshire antique store and found three utter beauties. My favourite one is made from blue silk chiffon, features a floral print and two tiny pink ribbon bow details above the chest. I can’t wait for the summer to arrive so I can just throw it on, styled with Castañers or a Mary Jane shoe along with a woven bag – it’s essentially an outfit that requires so little effort but looks and feels really feminine and chic.”

Which three items are you wishing for this year?

“I’ve had my eye on this two-piece from Scout – it comes in several different colours but I love it in navy. Their products are all made from upcycled deadstock materials; this two-piece is made from a soft and swishy Tencel. It would look great worn with a trainer, such as Novesta, for a simple and casual look, or with a blouse underneath the waistcoat and a heeled shoe for something a little dressier.

After lusting over a pair of the iconic Carel Kina Mary Janes for years, I think this year finally I’ll save and take the plunge. They’re definitely an investment piece that’ll work all year round and can be worn with almost anything. I’m still conflicted on which colour: burgundy, black, white or red?

Throughout the pandemic there has been a boom in independent brands, which is great! I discovered Chalsie Joan last year via Instagram: a one-woman, handmade to order clothing brand. The Anna blouse, inspired by Anna Karina in Jean-Luc Godard’s Pierrot Le Fou and made from raw silk, is a beauty. It’d be the ultimate blouse for the ‘jeans and a nice top’ look.”

Eshita Kabra

How did your personal style change, evolve and adapt to 2020?

“I must admit, since I launched By Rotation, I was confused about my style while transitioning from investment banker to fashion tech founder. One day I’d wear a bright-coloured maxi dress for an event and another day I’d wear a monochrome suit for a headshot photo. Over lockdown, I spent time considering my existing wardrobe and what truly made me feel like my personality was reflected in my fashion choices. I have so many beautiful pieces I’m still in love with so I really don’t need anything new. That revelation brought me back to basics! I’m back to wearing high-waisted trousers, plain T-shirts, smart blouses and jumpers. For dressier days, I’ll be in tailored dresses and court heels.”

What are you taking with you into 2021?

“This year I’ll be buying even less (shocking from a Singaporean – the joke is that we’re all shopaholics) and rotating even more. I’m happy with my existing wardrobe – I have core pieces I’d love to keep wearing in the future stages of my life. For all the trend-led fashion urges I have, I’ll be renting from fellow Rotators from the By Rotation app.”

And leaving behind?

“Shopping the fashion sales. I’m just not interested in the hype or pressure anymore. I now only buy new fashion if I truly believe it elevates my style to the next level.”

Which item or outfit can’t you wait to wear in 2021?

“My Sommer Swim bikinis, which I wear on every holiday… Boy, it’s been too long.”

Which three items are you wishing for this year?

“A pair of high-waisted velvet flares. They’re easy to wear every season (except summer) and can be dressed up and down easily. This year I will buy myself a Chanel handbag (have been waiting on a particular occasion to own one) and I am on the lookout for a tweed one. If you see any unique ones on the secondhand market, please do share! Finally, a faux version of the Saks Potts Foxy sage green coat in my size, preferably secondhand too. Not sure this will ever happen, given the many requirements I have!”

Heather Gramston

How did your personal style change, evolve and adapt to 2020?

Comfort was definitely key and encouraged me to upgrade my essentials pieces and casualwear. I’ve also heavily invested in cashmere, which has been a much worn and welcome investment when you’re wearing day in and day out. 

What are you taking with you into 2021?

I wore a lot less tailoring than ever before in 2020 and I’m very excited to introduce this back into my look in 2021.

And leaving behind?

I’ll be leaving behind my favourite cashmere track pants which have been a wardrobe stable and will hopefully only wear these now for travelling.

Which item or outfit can’t you wait to wear in 2021?

I can’t wait to wear this Khaite bodysuit when we’re able to go out for dinner and martinis again.

Which three items are you wishing for this year?

An HommeGirls menswear-inspired blue stripe shirt to liven up my WFH wardrobe, an Amina Muaddi croc print mini bag – I’m obsessed with this bag and can’t wait until I can go out and wear it! Finally, a Bottega wide-leg trouser. I’m really feeling a slouchy, wide-leg trouser shape with a high waist, which will be a welcome change from the cashmere tracksuit bottoms I’ve been wearing for most of lockdown.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

5 Stylish Women On Their 2021 Fashion Resolutions published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/

[rebelsplaygroundsaga]

𝐑𝐞𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐬 𝐏𝐥𝐚𝐲𝐠𝐫𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝

(PART ONE)

Camille Monfils

To the ones who stayed in the darkness with me.

I will destroy you in the most beautiful way possible. And when I leave you will finally understand, why storms are named after people.

- Caitlyn Siehl

Part I:

 

Sad Eyes☽

ONE

‪October 31st,‬

It’s been said that small towns are like black holes. Nothing changes, it’s impossible to leave and in the end, you’re just a part of it. A popular opinion among the teenagers in this small town. Being born in the same hospital as their parents and graduating from the same high school, that was inevitable. Their biggest fear though, was still living there afterwards and becoming actual victims of the black hole effect like they’d seen their parents do.

Deadwood, a town that supposedly got its name from the dead timber near the town’s creek banks. A place where the population was smaller than the amount of students who attend most universities. Granted, to most people the abundant forests and farmlands it seemed like the ideal place to raise children or to live out the rest of their days. However, for the youths who craved adventure and excitement, the history and splendour of a small town was anything but satisfactory. There were no arcades, malls or movie theatres to keep adolescents busy, but the creative ones always found something to do.

A 100 acres of land graced by a secluded white dutch colonial home with green shutters overlooked the main road. There was little about the house that gave any clue as to the kind of people who lived there.

Inside, Magic’s bedroom wasn’t quite in harmony with the rest of the house’s vintage decor. The glare from the neon pink woman’s body shaped light bounced off the lavender coloured walls covered in erotic drawings and paintings of nude women. The room combined modern trends, a bit of punk rock, goth and festival fashion reflecting her rebellious spirit and attitude. She hadn’t changed it

much over the years, she just kept adding to it as time passed. 

Magic was curled up next to the open casement bow window smoking a joint. Her hair tied in a messy bun in a beautiful undone look that said “I-roll-out-of-bed-cool”. She wore a tank top tied into a lush knot just over her navel with a pair of high waisted retro fleece shorts, fuzzy pink socks and signature tattoo choker. Her style was very much a throwback to when Tumblr was all the rage, and 90s aesthetics were combined with soft pink materials and Lolita-esque doe-eyed attitude.

Her dark gaze focused on the moon. There was a certain drama about her eyes. The colour of hot chocolate on a cold winter night. Those deep pools of chocolaty swirls seized the depth and heaviness of a thousand untold stories. I’ve always been different, she thought reaching for the heart-shaped ashtray next to a collection of vintage horror movies.

Her childhood was pretty normal, maybe even happy at times, but that changed when she grew into her looks as a teenager. By the time Magic was fifteen, she went from being the kind of girl who didn’t get noticed to the kind of girl who got almost too much attention.

Exhaling a large cloud of smoke, she reflected on her past, reminding herself of all the worst things she did and that happened to her. She was pretty and smart, but she had a dark mind with a tendency to romanticized depression and engaged in acts of self-mutilation. Yet, that day something was different. Magic woke up with an incredibly peaceful feeling. Usually, her mind moved at what felt like a million miles a minute. She would remember all the things she had to do, and would just want to hide under the covers. That morning it was as if she had finally woken up well-rested.

Squeezing the joint between her lips, she unraveled her hair tie revealing the most amazing head of hair. Thick strands fell onto her cheeks all the way down to her elbows flourishing into voluminous ringlets in a rich chestnut. She brushed her fingers through her long soft curls radiating an untidy and rebellious style.

She opened the mirrored closet doors and pushed the clothes on the hangers to one side, uncovering a photograph of a misty lake with a large cross emerging from the water pinned to the wall. Wax streamed down to the face of the shelf from a set of melted candles. Each item placed in a precise manner. On the left, there was a cat skull and on the right was a large amethyst crystal. A black dagger was placed horizontally before a calligraphy pentagram painted on the face of the shelf.

Magic slid the doors shut when she heard footsteps coming from the hallway. She made a half-hearted attempt to hide the joint by cupping her palm behind her hip.

Mrs. Jones walked into the bedroom. Her caramel coloured hair pined up in a neat French twist with a fringe that she used to hide the aging lines on her forehead. She waved her hand as if it would push the harsh herbal odour away.

“God, it reeks in here.” A hint of southern accent when she spoke.

Born and raised in Louisiana, she learned all about cooking and Catholicism from her mother’s mother, interests she wasn’t fortund enough to pass down to her own daughter.

“I was just burning some sage,” Magic said. 

Mrs. Jones rolled her eyes while making her way to the vanity cluttered with makeup products. It was beyond disappointing to her that Magic engaged in such acts of witchery, then again there wasn’t much she didn’t find disappointing when it came to her daughter. In retrospect, Magic always thought it was hyporcritical of her mother to go to church every Sunday when she was clearly breaking her vows.

“I thought you’d already left,” Magic said.

Mrs. Jones set her wool trench coat down on the vanity chair. “Where are those earrings you borrowed last week?” Her hands already riffling through the jewellery box. She moved a few things around until she spotted the pair of emerald earrings next to a rack of lipsticks. “Never mind. Here they are.” She looked herself in the lighted makeup mirror and put the earrings on. “I fear they’re too ladylike for you,” she said expressing her well hidden inner cattiness.

Magic didn’t even care what came out of her mother’s mouth anymore. She understood that there came a hard time in life when a child had to realize their parents were not perfect. That they’re human, and humans are barely more than monkeys in shoes. Her mother started seeing another man a few months ago. Either it was an affair or maybe her parents had agreed to an open relationship, but kept it quiet to avoid stigma or talking to her about it. All she knew for sure was that it wasn’t her job to police her parents marriage.

Mrs. Jones fixed the neckline of her wrap dress and smirked. “Do you really think I can’t smell what you’re doing in here?”

“Oh that, must be the sage,” She fretted.

“Mhmm.”

A sudden stinging sensation manifested itself in the palm of Magic’s hand and she let out a small ouch.

 

Mrs. Jones turned, extending her arm. “The entire upstairs reeks of marijuana. You think I don’t know when you smoke.” She brought the joint to her lips and took a long drag, letting the smoke fill her lungs for a moment. “At least you’re not getting cheap shit,” she exhaled.

Magic was relieved her mother wasn’t going to give an hour lecture about the dangers of smoking weed.

“You’re lucky it’s your birthday.” Mrs. Jones spoke through a furrowed brow when a honk came from outside. “Now with that said, I’m already late.” She took one last look at herself in the mirror, tucking in a loose strand of hair. “Your father is downstairs watching tv. There’s leftovers in the refrigerator if you get hungry.” She put her coat over her shoulders, then looked her daughter dead in the eyes. “You do not leave this house,” she said in an uncompromising tone. “I don’t want you hanging out with that homo friend of yours and pulling the same shit as last month.” Mrs. Jones held up her woven clutch, pointing her index finger at her daughter. “No leaving the house. I mean it. I don’t care if it’s your birthday. You don’t know what kind of horrors await a girl like you.”

“Yes, mom.” Magic would say anything to get her mother to leave. “Your ride’s waiting.”

Mrs. Jones slipped out and the door shut behind her. In one quick motion she leapt onto her bed, looking out the window where she saw a strangers vehicle in the driveway. She watched her mom get into the silver Eldorado, keeping an eye on the vehicle until it pulled out of the driveway. A sudden ring pierced the silence and the iPhone on her nightstand lit up with a new text message. 

Magic flipped her hair back and shuffled over to her vanity, facing the mirror and thinking about what colours would work best. She quickly regretted not having tested her make up before. Her friends would surely go all out and she had to look fabulous if she wanted to keep up with them. Fortunately, she had already tweaked her eyebrows to flawlessness. Her face and neck had already been contoured and highlighted, and her clear almond-shaped nails had been filled earlier that week. This was her 18th Birthday after all. Still, there was much to do and little time.

She prepared all of her products and began the makeup process. First, applying black liquid eyeliner, a crucial part of her everyday look. Second, she applied mascara making her eyelashes wispy and cat-like. To really pull her makeup together, she applied a shimmery shade of dusty rose coloured lip stain that made her lips look extra plump and pouty. For her hair, she straightened it with a flat iron for a neater look making the strands even longer.

Magic tossed her clothes on the floor in front of the laundry hamper which was already full of clothes. She slipped into a white mini dress full of whimsy with an intricate paisley lace overlay and nude lining. It had an open scalloped neckline and sheer sleeves. On her feet, she wore Dr. Martens platform boots another critical aspect to her everyday look. Lastly, a set of delicate wings that were so realistic, turning her into a bejewelled angel.

By the time she’d finished taking a few selfies hoping at least one would be profile worthy, the rumbling of a truck engine could be heard outside. Magic looked out the window and saw the old red Chevy pickup. The young man in the driver’s seat smiled and waved.

Ricky was pubescent looking, but tall with black hair long enough to be swept back. That night, he wore a black and white skeleton onesie as a costume with the sleeves pushed back revealing his tattooed arms. He was a well established bad boy known for his tattoos, playing the drums and being a descent skateboarder.

“One minute,” Magic mouthed before shuffling over to her laptop. She put an extensively long playlist on and turned up the volume, making it easier to slip in and out of the house more subtly. Then, she cautiously crawled out of the window and they drove off.

[intimatevoid]

*casuallys steals yet another one from @notfinlandjosswhedon*

1. Did the last type of shoes you wore have laces? They sure did. 2. How much money did you spend yesterday? None. I’m broke. 3. Are you CPR certified? Used to be, but it expired. 4. What genre is your favorite movie? Hard to say. I don’t really watch many movies. Maybe action, or comedy if it’s genuinely funny. 5. Are you messaging anybody right now? Sorta on and off, one person.

6. Do you like the picture on your license/I.D. card? It’s not a bad photo, for once.

7. What’s your favorite thing to snack on while watching a movie? I don’t really snack while watching movies. 8. When was the last time somebody hit on you? Oof, it would have been a long time ago. Maybe when Seb and I started getting involved with each other. Not many people hit on me. 9. What was the gender of the last person you met? I met several people together, of at least three different genders. 10. Which one of your friends do you feel most comfortable around? All-time, Dusty and Chloe. IRL, Sage and Ruin. I don’t do “one”s when it comes to friends. 11. Do you own a map of the world? Only on my phone. 12. What brand is your underwear? Just cheap kmart underwear.

13. Is the light on in the room you’re in? Yeah. 14. Who did you last spoon with? That would be Ash. 15. Are you currently watching TV? I don’t own a TV. 16. Have you ever had surgery or stitches? Yeah. Most recently, I had some small benign cysts cut out from my corners of my eyes. The stitches I got from that looked fucking cool. 17. Do you own any clothing that has animal print? Nope.

18. Does your family eat dinner together? Usually Ash and I eat dinner together, but sometimes we fend for ourselves. 19. Where do you work? I don’t work right now. 20. Are you in high school? Hell no, thank the lord. 21. Do you have a TV in your room? I don’t have a TV at all. 22. Are any of your electronics charging right now? My phone.

23. What was the last video game you played? That would be Warframe.

24. What did you last put on a piece of toast? Butter, cheese, and egg.

25. What did you put in your last smoothie? I’ve never, ever made a smoothie.

26. What stores would you say you buy from the most? Probably Aldi. I don’t have a great deal of money to spend.

27. What’re some TV shows that you would like to get into? There are so many things on my netflix list.

28. Is there a movie you’d like to see? The Void. Apparently it’s a fun eldritch horror.

29. What’s the most recent email in your inbox? I keep my inbox clear. Couldn’t tell you what came in last.

30. What’s the last thing you Googled? "how to propagate mint”

31. What was the last thing you watched on Netflix or Hulu? The Good Place.

32. Do you follow any celebrities on Twitter? No, just some friends.

33. What was the last flavor of pudding or yogurt you ate? I legit have no idea. It’s been way too long for me to remember.

34. What color are your shirt and pants? My shirt is red, my trackies are grey.

35. What color were the last pair of shoes you wore? Black and green.

36. Anything exciting coming up? Sage is coming to stay at mine on Tuesday. It’s not for a happy reason, but it’ll be nice to see you.

37. What numbers does your password on here have? How about get fucked

38. This time tomorrow, what will you be doing? Probably sleeping.

39. Would you rather get money or gift cards for your birthday? Money, for sure. 40. Have you ever texted a landline phone by accident? No idea. 41. Have you ever spoken to a detective before? Yeah, briefly, after the 2011 floods. 42. What colour is your garage? I don’t have a garage. 43. Have you ever played laser tag? No, just paintball. 44. Do you pick out your outfits for the next day the night before or the AM? If I’m preparing for something the following morning, then I always lay my clothes out the night before. I’ve been doing it since school. It’s the only thing that helps manage my executive dysfunction. 45. Do you wear earrings? Even better, I wear tunnels. 46. Is your wifi protected? Yes because this is not 2007. 47. What did you have for lunch today? Noodles. 48. Does your phone have a cover on it? Just a thin plastic covers. 49. What colour was your swim suit this year? I don’t own a swim suit. I haven’t ever felt safe owning a swim suit before. Lotta personal history blocking me there. 50. How many bedrooms does your house have? 2. 51. Do you have any pictures of you and your friends in your bedroom? A couple, I think.

52. Did you and your family go on many road trips when you were younger? Not really. Doing anything as a group with a family of 13 is a difficult task, let alone moving them anywhere for a purpose, let alone moving them for its own sake.

53. Do you own any Funko Pop! figurines? Hell fucking no.

54. How many cats and dogs have you had as pets in your lifetime? My family’s owned 3 cats, 1 of which was mine. And 4 dogs, none of which were miine.

55. Can your mom and/or dad play any instruments, or how about anyone else in your family? Nobody in my family has ever been musically inclined. Clare played flute in high school and Tina played a little guitar, but I’m the only person who’s ever stuck with music. And even then, barely.

56. What’s your favorite colour and what items do you own in that colour? My favourite colour is purple and I own no purple clothes. 57. What brand or designer is your purse and/or wallet? It’s just a cheap no-name brand that I got second hand. 58. Can you crack crab legs without a tool? I’ve never eaten crab legs before. 59. How many light sources are in the room you’re in? One lightbulb, my mouse, and my computer screen.

Before (first line) and After (second line), 2 years ago; Today

60. How old is the last person you kissed? 24. 35.

61. What is the last movie you watched? Pfft, as if I remember that. I watched Arrival last night.

62. Are you happy? *noncommittal shrug* With myself, yes. With my world, no.

63. What’s one thing that you really want to do? Continue my transition. Move to a bigger house.

64. Is your cell phone right by you? It usually sat on the arm of my couch. It’s almost always within arm’s reach.

65. What are you wearing on your feet? How fucking good do you think my memory from 2 years ago is? Nothing.

66. Did you ever waste too much time during the day? I get up, I work, I go home, I sleep. No time to waste. Define “waste”. Fuck you.

67. Do you like cuddling? Yes. I need it like I need air.

68. Do you sleep with one leg out from under the covers? Depends on the weather Usually, yes

69. Where’d you get the shirt your wearing now? I don’t know what I was wearing 2 years ago. Online from some derby fan store.

70. Did you get at least eight hours of sleep last night? Usually I made sure I did, so that I wasn’t too tired for work. Yes.

71. When is your next long road trip? *shrugs* I have no road trips planned.

72. Ever kissed someone who’s the first name starts with an “A” or “C”? Yes and yes. Still yes and yes. A couple of new A’s but no new C’s.

Just regular questions again:

73. Do you have a common first name? Fairly common.

74. Do you like your middle name or your first name more? I like both equally. ‘S why I picked them. ^_^

75. What year would/did you turn 21? 2013.

76. Can you see your veins through your skin? Yeah, I’m white as they come.

77. Would you rather live in an apartment or a duplex? I’ve only ever lived in apartments. I quite like them.

78. Do you like spicy chips? Not particularly.

79. Do you wear more pink or yellow? I don’t think I own any clothing of either colour.

80. What’s the last thing you bought besides food/drink? I think it would have been some bin bags.

81. Who scheduled your last doctor visit? Me.

82. What’s the last funny movie you watched? Probably the K-On!! movie. Although that was more cute than funny.

83. Can you remember your parents’ birthdays? Pfft, I barely remember my OWN birthday.

84. What is the design on your shirt? A kitty wearing a helmet and roller skates, with the worsds “roller derby cathletes”.

85. What is the origin of your last name? I took it after someone I care dearly about.

86. What piercing do you like most on the people you are attracted to? Tongue for sure. Gods, that one just slays me.

87. What country do you live in? Australia.

88. Did/do you ride the bus to and from school? In high school, yeah.

89. What band would you stand in line for 24 hours to see? Literally none of them.

90. If you were in a band, which role would you be? Probably guitar, but I’d love to learn drums.

91. Would you ever consider prostitution as an occupation? I think I’d be pretty awful at it, since I don’t like sex.

92. If you could relive one year of your life, which would it be? None of them. That’s literally my worst nightmare.

93. What makes your heart beat faster? Attractive people getting close to me

94. Are you a one night stand or serious relationship type person? I’m not really a one night stand person at all, given my disinterest in sex. But my sense of a “seriously relationship” is highly subjective and customisable based on the person it’s with. So, the latter, but it depends.

95. What is the one thing that you need to do to die happy? For me, it’s more something I need to continue doing, and it would be

96. What’s the riskiest thing you’ve ever done? I drove home one morning after a party, and while I didn’t realise it at the time, in hindsight, I think I was still drunk from the night before. That was probably pretty risky.

97. What’s your standard excuse for not doing something? I don’t feel like it. On the other hand, because of my mental illness, there is a major difference between me not wanting to do something and me not being ABLE to do something. Don’t get them confused.

98. What is one moment you wish you could have taken a picture of? Pretty much all the good bruises I got from my time playing roller derby.

99. What place holds the most memories for you? Sadly, my old workplace. And they’re not good memories at all, not in the slightest.

100. Who was your first date? My first actual date was Ash, about two and a half years ago.

101. What’s the best trip you’ve ever been on? Couldn’t tell you. I can’t afford to go on many trips.

102. What languages do you speak? English and Japanese. 英語と日本語。

103. How many ex’s do you have? Anywhere between 2 and 4, depending on what you call “ex”.

104. Do you swear? How much? I swear a great fucking deal.

105. Have you ever had food poisoning? I think I’ve had it once. Not sure if it was actual real food poisoning, but it was still pretty fucking bad.

106. Do you like snakes? I love them with all my heart.

107. Do you gossip? Yeah, though I try to make a point of only gossiping about things which won’t harm people.

108. Do you like to party? With the right people? Hell yes.

[merzelifestyle]

Creating Nosegays - How to Style A Tablescape Like A Professional - 5th in this series

Designing these lovely nosegays for my table was a creative endeavor that brought me such pleasure. Not only did I have a chance to work with the beautiful flowers that were in my centerpiece, but I also incorporated other items such as ornamental kale and sage.

First, what is a nosegay!

Very simply, a nosegay is a small grouping of fragrant flowers or herbs tied in a bundle or bouquet and often given as a gift.

Today, we use nosegays in weddings, or special events. Often you will see nosegays created using roses and other beautiful blooms. Other filler flowers such as lavender, rosemary, mint, ivy or sage are also used. On the outside, leaves such as hosta or lamb’s ears are often used to frame the bouquet.

Let’s see how I created my nosegays using different types of herbs and interesting blooms for “My French Garden” tablescape.

Here are the flowers that I chose for my nosegays and why:

Dusty Miller: I chose dusty miller for its green/gray color. The leaves match nicely with the different grays in the table as well it added both texture and warmth to the arrangement. The fuzzy softly curved leaves filled space and gave my little arrangements some romance.

Delphinium: I added just a few delphinium for the pop of deep blue I was looking for. I wanted a vibrant blue flower to match both my vintage Spode plates and votives. Delphinium’s have very small blooms that are deeply colorful. These were perfect.

David Austin Roses - Heritage: I then added beautiful David Austin Heritage roses to the bouquet. The blush color added nicely to the brown hues in the confit pot as well gave my centerpiece a warm richness I was looking for. These beautiful roses were a bit old fashion and very fragrant. Perfect for the look I was going for, cozy and warm.

Eucalyptus: I chose seeded and silver dollar eucalyptus for its arid feel.

The blue/gray color mixed well with the rest of the flowers and gave the bouquet a sweet old world feel to it.

Ornamental Kale: Ornamental kale range in colour from deep purple to bright green to soft white, allowing it to be combined with a huge range of coloured blooms to fit the theme in mind. For me, it represented the infusion of cultures and the arid Italian landscape that surrounds France.

Sage: Although sage is not found in many French dishes, they do love the fragrance and different textures and colors. You will often find sage in gardens just for the love of the scent and the color variations they bring in the summer. I chose sage because it really is a beautiful herb, dark green in color and just a lovely cascading herb.

“As Rosemary is to the Spirit, so Lavender is to the Soul.”–  Anonymous

Of course, creating a design like this isn’t very practical when preparing your own table for dinner. You certainly can have beautiful little bouquets at each dinner plate if you choose, but I would recommend using them in other design elements.

I love create these little nosegays to put around my home if I am entertaining. I also use them if I want to create multiple little centerpieces that will go up and down the center of my table when hosting a dinner. Often, one centerpiece can be too large when you are decorating a table. These little nosegay vignettes are just so lovely when placed here and there around the center of your tablescape. I do it all the time.

Did you know that nosegays were first introduced in the Middle Ages, and worn in the lapels of both men and women. Since people didn’t bathe regularly, a strong odor usually pervaded everyday life. Individuals would wear the nosegay as a small bouquet, breathe in the sweet smelling flowers, thus keeping the "nose gay" or happy.

""The details are not the details. They make the design.""  -- CHARLES EAMES

“The thing is…adding a few fragrant herbs to a bouquet can add to the ambience of your design depending on what you are trying to accomplish. The sage and ornamental kale created a more casual and relaxed feel to my table which is exactly what I was hoping for. ”

Here is a quick video of my finished tablescape.

“Mon Jardin à la Française” or “My French Garden”

As with everything I post on my blogs, please feel free to comment or if you have any questions, please email me through my contact page. I welcome it anytime!

Design with your heart™️

Happy entertaining my friends!

Mary

  "May your home be a place where friends meet, family gathers, and love grows. "  -- Anonymous