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Myanmar, previously Burma, was my favourite country to travel around in South East Asia. I met some of the kindest, most generous people I’ve ever met – which was made even more special since many less people speak English than in countries like Thailand and Vietnam. Everyone was really excited to see me (by and large, of course) and that makes all the difference when you are travelling alone.

Everyone has their own suggestions and ideas for a good 28-day itinerary or route around Myanmar; this is the route I took, with a few changes with the benefit of hindsight. I entered Myanmar overland from Thailand and used every day of my visa. I travelled pretty quickly, and at the height of the dry season: this had advantages and disadvantages, and not every person travels in the same way. The best advice I could possibly give would be to travel in your own way, and not get too bothered about what you think you should be doing.

Another really key bit of advice for travelling in Myanmar (and South East Asia generally) is not to get stuck down in plans. Things here can change at the drop of a hat, so don’t be like the Germans and book your hotels a week in advance, and then get grumpy when your boat is delayed or the bus takes 5 hours longer than expected.

Day 1: cross from Mae Sot to Myawaddy. Depending on how early you cross, you could get the taxi straight to Hpa An. I spent the night, which was pretty expensive since there is only one hotel in town. There are some nice temples though, which I checked out the next morning.

Day 2: taxi to Hpa An. I paid 8,000 KYT; I know someone who paid 6,000 KYT but there were two of them so 12,000 KYT total. I’d probably pay less now, I’m much better at haggling… This taxi took nearly all day, but it passes through some good scenery and you should expect to stop for new passengers regularly – sit back and enjoy your first taste of Myanmar. I left Myawaddy at 12pm and got into Hpa An in time for sunset. The taxi driver dropped me right outside Soe Brothers, which is where everyone stays.

Day 3 – 4: Hpa An. Things to do include ‘the tour‘ and climbing Mount Zwegabin (horrific but awesome, do not do with a hangover).

Day 5: Hpa An to Yangon. Another full day of travel, basically. There are lots of good night markets in Yangon for when you get in, including the Chinese market on 19th and the many fried fish restaurants along The Strand.

Day 6 – 9: Yangon. I arguably spent too many days here, but I really liked the city and had an awesome time. Make sure to check out the Shwedagon Pagoda, and take a turn around the Circular Railway. I got got halfway before I ran out of time, but it was still really fun.

Day 9 – 10: Yangon to Kalaw. This involved a night train, the army, and 3am samosas with a new friend who wanted to show me his music. Did I sleep? No. Did I nap relentlessly and buy lots of train noodles from women with half as many teeth as you’d probably expect? Yes, yes I did.

Day 11 – 13: Kalaw to Inle Lake (Nyaung Shwe). This is a famous trek, everyone does it. Do it. It’s awesome. I loved seeing the change from arid mountain to lush lakeside farms. I stayed at Golden Lily in Kalaw and bought the trek from them and I have no complaints. It cost 40,000 KYT, which included three full days of meals and two nights rest. It did not include the beer – bring extra for the beer.

Day 13 – 15: Inle Lake (Nyaung Shwe). It’s beautiful, obviously. I cycled around instead of doing tours, because I am cheap and hate organised tourism. The tours look pretty fun though.

Day 15 – 16: Inle to Mandalay. Another night bus, another 3am arrival. I did not enjoy Mandalay the first time round, although I had a super time when I came back here a few days later. I also didn’t realise you could get a bus direct from Nyaung Shwe to Hsipaw, which would have been much more sensible.

Day 17: Mandalay to Hsipaw. A 3am start this time, in order to take the train over the amazing, awe inspiring and justifiably famous Goteik Viaduct. Definitely worth it, 10/10, would recommend.

Day 18: Hsipaw. Another place where people do treks. I did not, because I hate people. Instead, I made friends with a dog and went to some hot springs by myself, where I saw in my clothes and read an awesome book called “Ark” by Stephen Baxter.

Day 19: Hsipaw to Pyin Oo Lwin. Very early bus, so I basically got the full day here. The best attraction is the Dattawgyaik waterfall (also called Anisakan Falls), which is the finest waterfall I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s a sensation. Please go. The national botanical gardens are also very nice, with a cool aviary and a surprising amount of education. I went the following morning.

Day 20: Pyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay. I left Pyin Oo Lwin in the early afternoon and got a taxi/bus/truck thing (you know it when you see it) for like 1,500 KYT which is MUCH cheaper and MUCH MUCH more fun than the tourist bus.

Day 21: Mandalay. Actually, I went to Inwa which is a town south of Mandalay, but you get the idea. Tourisms.

Day 22 – 23: Mandalay to Bagan. This was not meant to be a two-day voyage but the boat got stuck on a sandbank. What can I say, it happens. It was awesome.

Day 23 – 24: Bagan. I have to say, I wasn’t the hugest fan of Bagan. Most people love it, but I guess I found it was far too touristy and expensive. I prefer towns like Hpa An where there is only one hostel and there’s a really cool vibe of exploration and excitement. Bagan felt a little too… middle aged.

Day 24 – 25: Bagan to Yangon to Mawlamyine. Phew-ee, this was a slog. 7pm bus, changing in Yangon at 5am, and then getting into Mawlamyine around 2pm. Just in time for a nap, and then up to the ridge for sunset. Truly spectacular, by the way.

Day 25: Mawlamyine. Ok, so Breeze Hostel runs a tour. It’s in Lonely Planet, it’s on travel fish. It’s quite shit, definitely overpriced.

Day 25 – 26: Mawlamyine to Maungmagan (via Dawei). Another night bus, another early morning change – this time onto a motobike taxi (sorry mum) that took me through the mountains to the sea under the stars (sorry not sorry).

Day 26: Maungmagan. Ok, so on this day my phone got stolen, but IF IT HADN’T it would have been an awesome day. Beautiful deserted beach (apart from that shitty child who stole my phone), thousands of crabs, bright bright sun…

Day 27: Maungmagan to Dawei. So I spent most of this day in the police station, which in retrospect was still quite an experience. But yeah. Woo.

Day 28: Dawei to Kanchanaburi (Thailand). I made it! I was home. Well, back to the land of 7-Elevens, fruit shakes and Chang.

So what do you think? Where did your travels in Myanmar take you?

28 days in Myanmar: route and advice Myanmar, previously Burma, was my favourite country to travel around in South East Asia. I met some of the kindest, most generous people I've ever met - which was made even more special since many less people speak English than in countries like Thailand and Vietnam.

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Borobudur

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Just for this moment

Just for this moment

In the heart of the Bayon, the centre and focus of the Angkor temple complex in Cambodia, there is a statue of Buddha. It isn’t old (the ancient statue was destroyed in 1933), it isn’t big, it isn’t particularly beautiful or well crafted. It isn’t famous or well-loved, it isn’t mentioned in guide books – it doesn’t even make it to the wiki page. The room in which it sits isn’t large, or…

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So it may be a cliche, but often in life, and especially in South East Asia, it’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey. Admittedly, not every time I got on a bus was like walking into a music video, and travelling from Saigon to Hanoi in just under two weeks can really put you off night buses for a good long time. Mostly, though, I have very fond memories of all the transports I took in Asia – here are my top favourite or, at the very least, most memorable…

Mandalay to Bagan (Myanmar)

When a story can begin with phrases like ‘I bought my ferry ticket from the Inland Water Transport for 18,000 KYT’, it’s difficult to know where to take it. It was also difficult to find the boat, surprisingly…

You can get the slow boat from Mandalay to Bagan, or you can get the fast (tourist) boat. I got the slow boat, because it is cheaper, and because I travel slow. It was an amazing choice, although there weren’t a whole load of local people on it. In fact, after 3pm there were only white people left. This, it turns out, was because the river was too shallow to get to Bagan, which the local people knew, and we did not. Long story short, we got stuck on a sand bank, stayed the night on the boat, and it was awesome. The Germans were pretty grumpy because of their ‘plans’, but the French women and I had no plans, so we drank beer and looked at the stars and ate rice with sweet chilli sauce.

We got into Bagan at around 11.30am the next day, which was fine really.

2. Mandalay to Hsipaw: the Goteik Viaduct (Myanmar)

I’m flat out in love with trains, especially in Myanmar, but this one stretched me to my limit. The train to Hsipaw left at 4am, which meant a 3am wake up – I mean, why even bother going to sleep. A little nap on the train though and I was good to go and take in everything the day had to offer: a beautiful Burmese sunrise; a kind family opposite who were exceptional curious about everything I did; a snack lady who sold me melon slices for 200 KYT…

The train went from Mandalay to Hsi Paw but the main event was the Goteik Viaduct. It was built long enough ago and it is quite old and terrifying. The little girl opposite me was so excited to go over it that she pointed it out every time we saw it. Considering it took about 40 minutes to wind our way down the mountain to its level, this would have gotten old pretty quickly, if she wasn’t so damn cute!

The destination was also pretty awesome: there’s a shop in Hsipaw which sells the best Shan noodles I’ve ever tasted. And believe me, I tried plenty.

3. Senaru to Malang (Indonesia)

Some stories are best told in prose, and others are best told in bullet points. This was a fun journey we decided to do, it took almost exactly 48 hours, and covered three islands and over 600km (which, on reflection, doesn’t sound that far, but it’s a slow part of the world to travel in, especially on the cheap). Anyway…

Taxi from Senaru to Anyar

Bemo from Anyar to Mattaram

Bemo from Mattaram to Lembar

Ferry from Lembar to Padang Bai

Taxi from Padang Bai to Kuta

—- night time, sleepy time —–

Taxi from Kuta to Denpasar

Bus from Denpasar to Gilimanuk

Ferry from Gilimanuk to Ketapang

Taxi to Ketapang bus station (actually two because the first one took us to a random ass place in the middle of nowhere)

Bus from Ketapang to Probolinggo

Bus from Probolinggo to Malang

Bemo from Malang bus station to our hostel

…the things you do that sound sensible on the other side of the world. And don’t forget that every step of the way is painfully negotiated with someone who wants to take you for all you have…

From here…

… to here!

4. Bangkok to Siem Reap (Thailand – Cambodia)

Another hideous journey! Also entirely my fault. Note to past self: do not go partying on Khao San road when you have to wake up at 6am the next day to get a bus to literally another fucking country. Or do, it makes a fun story.

Either way, I smelled disgusting, I apologise to everyone on the bus – but I can promise it’s one journey I will never forget!

But I also have no photos from that day, obviously.

5. Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw (Laos)

The best until last. Now, if I told you spending 125,000 kip on a 5 hour boat to a village in the middle of nowhere was one of the best decisions I ever made, you might think I’d gone crazy. But you’d be wrong, because it was amazing.

I like boats… and look where it got me! I mean really – and I only endured three leeches on the walk to this amazing mystical impossible view. Well worth it, in my opinion.

So what about you: journey or destination?

Top Five Journeys So it may be a cliche, but often in life, and especially in South East Asia, it's not about the destination, it's about the journey.

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Six Months in South East Asia: What To Pack

Six Months in South East Asia: What To Pack

I spend a weird amount of time googling packing lists for various trips, so I figured it was time to lend my own knowledge and expertise to the conversation. The advantage of packing for South East Asia is that the climate is really very homogenous: even when it’s raining, it’s not cold – you aren’t going to need fluffy socks or lots of jumpers. This means I could take a lot less than I will…

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While I was travelling in South East Asia, I went to hundreds of amazing and beautiful places. Here is a list of my top five favourite places – the places I’m so glad I went to, and where you definitely have to find time to go.

1. Ta Van, near Sapa, North Vietnam

Without a doubt, hands down, the most beautiful place I visited in South East Asia. Ta Van is a village / collection of homestays about 10km outside of Sapa. Sapa itself is disgusting – a ceaseless concrete mess filled with Chinese tour groups and evil touts trying to sell you anything and everything. I was offered heroin twice during an hour I spent sitting in the town square…

But Ta Van – holy moly. The views! The temperature! It’s so cold! (and by cold I mean Asia-cold, like, not face meltingly humid at all times). The food is fantastic, at least it was in my homestay (Mary’s Homestay, by the way – she’s lovely) – freshly made, with local ingredients.

Mostly, Sapa and the area around is famous for the rice terraces, and they are as beautiful as promised. What amazed me though was how far up they went. Me and my buddy spent a day walking up a mountain, and even at the very top there were still farms and terraces, and kids and oxen and butterflies – so many butterflies!

It is the shit, that’s the only appropriate way of putting it. Please go to Sapa, then hop on a bus to Ta Van asap.

2. Ko Ta Kiev, South Cambodia

It’s the classic story – I went there for 2 days, I stayed for two weeks. This island is amazing and beautiful and just so relaxing. I was at a point in my trip where I had been travelled for three months and I just felt so run down. Like, drained to my very core. This island saved me, it truly did.

I stayed at the Last Point, which was amazing. Most people opted for the dorm back in the jungle a bit, but I went for the hammock on the beach. It was the best choice – every morning I woke up to the sunrise, and every night I went to sleep to the sound of the waves. Plus there’s bioluminescent plankton – it glows! It’s like you are magic.

There are other hostels on the island, and I want to give a specific shout out to the food at Kactus. I wouldn’t stay there (too sensible, expensive, arrogant) but man – the food. It was pretty expensive (hey, the whole island is quiet expensive) but if you go for lunch you won’t even want to eat at dinner: the portions are huge. And then you can settle down in a hammock, read a book, have a nap. It’s idyllic, it’s perfect, every day I wake up disappointed that I’m not still on that island.

3. Yangon, Myanmar

Man, what a town. I struggle to explain why I loved this place so much. The bustle, the atmosphere, the beautiful people, the markets, the food, the history…

I’ll let you know when I think of the right words, but until then, just trust me – spend a goodly amount of time in Yangon. You 100% will not regret it.

4. Jolly Frog Hostel, Kanchanaburi, Thailand

Why did I like this hostel so much? Sometimes you just get the perfect storm of happy coincidences: a beautiful sunset, a nice group of Australians, a hammock, a river you can swim in at the end of a hot day… My fond memories are also, I think, because of where I was on my trip: two months in and, after a month in Myanmar that left me emotionally and physically exhausted, coming back to Thailand was a dream. It felt familiar, comforting, easy: what can I say – I love 7-Eleven!

Either way, it’s super cheap, and you can get rooms that float on the river. It’s just off the main strip (which is a bit seedy, of course, being this close to Bangkok) but super quiet. The restaurant is amazing – one day I ate all three meals there, and was completely satisfied. Generally, this hostel was the perfect place to relax and regroup before getting back on the trail.

The town of Kanchanaburi is also really awesome. It has a lot of WWII death railway stuff, which is interested and really sad. It also has waterfalls, nature etc. which I didn’t visit, but have heard very good things about – check it out for me!

5. Georgetown, Malaysia

I first heard about Georgetown after reading this very inspiring post, and I’m very glad I did! Everything about the town is fantastic – the food is amazing, Malaysian and Indian and Chinese all sold fresh on the street or in awesome, busy, cheap restaurants. There is so much history here, especially in the historic centre, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s all beautifully laid out, with clear signposts and plaques, so you don’t need to do any prep at all – just walk out onto the colonial street and see where you end up.

Penang Island also has so much to offer. You can get a funicular railway (putting the ‘fun’ back into funicular railways!) up Penang Hill for these beautiful views – you can also hike up, but I love railways so I wanted as much funicular time as possible.

You can also visit the National Park – its only a 60 minute bus away! The park is amazing – three beautiful beaches (although you can’t really swim because of the tides and the jellyfish), hours of untouched jungle to play in – and this hermit crab!

Now it’s over to you – where are your top places to go?

Top Five Places in South East Asia While I was travelling in South East Asia, I went to hundreds of amazing and beautiful places.

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You’ve Got That Lovin’ Feelin’

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Sunset #4

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Sunrise #1

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Sunrise, this time

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Going Home

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Working Girl

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Fields of Gold

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Summer in the City

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Man on Rock

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Fog on the Tyne

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I want to ride my bicycle