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Johnny in the "Shred Shed". Culver City, CA

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Old boards lined up at the Gesner Sandcastle in Malibu. I've worked at so many houses over the years. This is the only one I could say I truly love.

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Thanksgiving crew

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Finally got my own snorkel and mask...

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Las Gaviotas Baja, MX

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From The Surfer's Journal Instagram account. It's all about style....

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The 10-2 from this morning at Sunset

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Seen these on many recommend reading lists... Looks like I have my next few months of reading worked out.

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One of my favorite places in California. San Onofre 2015

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Johnny Talay San Onofre, California 2015

Photo: Adam Amengual

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More finless swaggery goodness from one of my favorite surf film makers Nathaniel Oldfield, which is also an excerpt from one of his films Heart and the Sea. 

I own a Wegener paipo, which is a ton fun. Be a dream to be able to rock an alaia some day. 

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If single fin surfing has the most soul, what does finless have ?

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From the first pictures taken with my Optrix iPhone case at San Onofre.

Photo: Adam Amengual

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Came across this video a few months ago. I probably cried through 75% of it. The story of a surfer and his dog through the good times and the tough.

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Surfing makes you a better person...

Some of my favorite excerpts from an article on The Inertia. Written by Steve Andrews.

5. You learn about true love. Surfing has kicked my ass over and over again. Just when you think you have something down, you learn something new that is so humbling, you are forced to evaluate what you thought you knew. You are brought to reality time and time again, and any ego trip that you are on will put you in ultimate failure if you bring that attitude to the waves. On the other side of that equation, by putting in your time and forgetting about all the bad moments you will relish in moments of pure ecstasy that cannot be described in a simple blog post such as this. It’s a lifelong relationship that is not without it’s struggles. But the reward is ultimate.

I wouldn’t say that I’ve ever had absolute unconditional love, but I know that no matter what the conditions are and how poorly I surf, I always feel better after paddling out. And being around something or someone that makes you feel better…well, I’d say that is a pretty good definition of true love.

7. It’s scientifically proven to make you happier. The actual state of being “stoked” is a real thing. It has to do with ionized water particles in the air that you either inhale or ingest.

Bridget Reedman of Coastal Watch wrote a great article about it on The Inertia:

The turbulence created by breaking waves alters the physical structure of the air and water, breaking apart water and air molecules and releasing charged ions* into the atmosphere. On their eternal quest for perfect waves surfers inevitably encounter this altered atmospheric state.

Some scientists are convinced this abundance of negative ions has a positive effect on mood by triggering the release of endorphins and serotonin – the “happy hormones” – and increasing blood flow and oxygen circulation through our bodies.