aliamber365

[aliamber365]

The Cradle of Civilization

JORDAN.... where to begin. I supposed the arrival. I have to admit I was nervous about traveling to our first and only middle eastern country. The driving factor was my friend Brenda. She’s an international teacher and was our main instigator for visiting. We arrived late at night and she had a driver waiting for us. He was lovely and helped us out with the sim card for the phone. Assam was his name and he is a Palestinian Jordanian. That was our first introduction to the tensions in the area with Israel and Palestine (more on that later) 

We stayed our first night at Brenda’s swanky apartment (more on that later) and then left for Petra the next day. Picking up our rental car gave us an experience of walking around Amman which is not the most attractive city. It is large and hilly. It is in the middle of the desert therefore very pretty dry and the buildings a drab. It is NOT pedestrian friendly, which was challenging since so much of our travels up to this point (at this time, we were three months in) were car free and in very walkable cities. AND the drivers were as crazy as ever... welcome to driving on the asian continent! 

Anyway, Petra. This place, was and probably still is one of the most unique sites we saw on our trip. To begin, Petra is a UNESCO site dating from around 300 BC. It is basically a city complete with temples, tombs, arenas, cave dwellings and Bedouins. The buildings are carved into the pink sandstone walls of the mountains. We began by walking through the Siq, which is a mile long gorge leading to the first impressive sandstone edifice.

Brenda had done the walk before but we were all three anxious for the opening and first view of this hidden city. It did not disappoint. The Siq itself was impressive enough, standing at least 100 feet tall on both sides, morning light sneaking in at different angles , and widths where the Siq would narrow then widen as it snaked towards the ancient city. Along the walk, Bedouins (mainly men) would offer camel or donkey rides through the Siq. We arrived early but the gorge was already buzzing with activity as the tourists and locals were arriving for the day. 

As the people started becoming denser and slowing we realized we were coming up to our first experience of this mystical place. The Siq opened up and directly in front of us stood a carved building with columns, gaping windows for entrance, and stood at least 100 feet high. The light was striking the treasury at a perfect angle as to illuminate it but not wash it out. 

There were touts selling trinkets and more Bedouins offering their services to take tourists to the top of the Monastery, which was only accessed by some 900 some odd steps. We stood starting at this huge ancient artifact for some time. Taking in the massiveness while also trying to contemplate how it even came to be. As we left the treasury, the gorge opened up into this massive valley. Peaks on both sides with elaborate tombs to the right elevated on a small mesa, a theater like structure to the left similar to some we saw in Athens. They had an aqueduct which ran through the entire complex bringing water to the different areas.  With every step my eyes were wide and mouth agape at the colors, shapes and details of the natural and constructed artifacts around us. We hustled through the valley to ensure we would make it to the Monastery. 

The steps in the late September heat in Jordan was pretty miserable but the scenery that was offered as we climbed above the valley floor was beautiful. At each view point we awed and with each rest stop it was impossible not to give a sigh at the landscape that was unfolding. Just as we thought we could go no more (and were running out of water) we saw the space open up. We then came to the point that everyone was looking at. 

The Monastery was three times the width of the treasury and one an a half times the height. The massiveness of the building was amazing in itself, but accompanied with its location on the top of this mountain overlooking the desert and the Dead Sea with Israel in the background the Monastery was my highlight from the day. In that moment, I felt like I was on top of the world. 

I felt like I had a glimpse into what it was like to stand at that space a thousand years ago. This arid place was where so much of our history had unfolded. I could only see patches of green amongst the golden color of sand/ There were no cities or highways. I just remember the expanse and silence, wondering how the hell I ended up there and wondering where I’d go next. 

The desert has astounding beauty. 

[aliamber365]

holy shit, were back and my blogging skills are minimal. I realized I should have been journaling all along and then transferring ideas to the web...and i failed. so i guess from this point on these will all be reflective writings in my attempt to recall the amazingness i’ve experienced over the past year. alas... thats how it is. lets hope for better internet connection and the ability to load pictures. 

[aliamber365]

THE HEAD BOBBLE!!

Prior to arriving to India the basic head nods for yes and no we're universal. We read shamtaram where the head bobble was introduced but had no real idea. It is a slight side to side bobble of the head and It means everything from yes to no but simply in a more polite manner. It occurs when you speak with someone... in a store, do you have eggs? Head bobble and they would lead me to the eggs. Approaching a taxi.. will you take us to ... ? Head bobble and blank stare. Yes ? No? We had to double check, the answer was no. It looked so natural and so mystifying at the same time. I had no idea how to interpret it. It was used as a hello, i don't know, yes, no , maybe...ah! But after our month in India we started using it. For... anything and everything. Mostly hellos. In the book it was said to be an approach signaling hey I'm friendly, hello , how are you? There wasn't much 'hello/good morning' so I kept with the head bobble. Want me to buy something? Hand up, Head bobble. I just bought something? Head bobble. It's pretty awesome. Three us off at first but it's my favorite new gesture... until I discovered the princess Diana hand wave for no in Vietnam! THE BEST, more to come on that later :)

[aliamber365]

Institutional Eating

Our first stop in the south was Bengalore where we were lucky enough to meet up with two contacts who were friends of friends in the states. One of which was a  travel agent and a foodie. Her name is Shabari aka Shabs and she reminded us that we need to be looking for the institutions! The oldest places in town where all the locals go to get their fix. Our first meeting with shabs was at the airlines hotel. 

Mind you... it was not a hotel. We discovered that in India and a bit in Sri Lanka the restaurants adopted the title of hotel although there is no sign of a room for the night anywhere in sight. As with many different foods in India, they boast the most nutritious and balanced of meals. 

(Airlines Hotel Restaurant!)

As explained by both our friends In India The idli is the breakfast they say has been researched as the most balanced breakfast in the world! The idli is a rice flour and dal batter that is steamed (the shape of a small empanada) and is served with sambar and chutney. The idli itself is said to be very easy in your stomach while the sambar and chutney add... and obviously flavor. Sambar is a vegetable stew-like sauce. chutney is a dip that is not cooked more like a purée. It could be of coconut, tomato, mint or cilantro. They were served with almost everything South Indian... and I love it. 

We began our South Indian breakfast at, as mentioned Airlines Hotel with an idli and the other delicious traditional Indian  breakfast... many know it. The dosa. I was not familiar with the dosa and loved the pan fried thin pancake of rice and dal flour (most of the breakfast treats use that mixture) again served with the chutney and sambar. The dosa unlike the idli was crisp and delicious and was had in a variety of ways. At airlines we had the traditional and I was in love. The last breakfast treat, the final piece to the Indian institution breakfast trifecta is the vada. Another dal and rice flour batter fried in the shape of a donut. A savory donut to die for. We were hooked and realized we were lucky to discover this spot and the hidden world of the authentic Indian breakfast. For the next 5 weeks we were on the search for the south Indian breakfast institutions. If the restaurant was sparse with metal tables and stools, no menu and older men in lunghis working the room we knew we were in the right place. These institutions are well oiled machines and one could be in and out in 10 minutes flat. There was nothing desirable in terms of ambiance... it was all about the quick and easy delicious meal. 

(surprisingly enough, we have NO food pics of our favorite breakfasts ever! so here is my birthday dosa;)

(another dosa picture... crispy no filling, RIDICULOUSLY LARGE, accompanied by two idlis each...)

THALIS... the second meal that quickly became my favorite was lunch. It was a complete meal including each of the six flavors...sweet, sour, salt, bitter, astringent and spicy. 

In southern india it is traditionally served on a banana leaf, or in a round serving dish. In Indian food serving culture a proper meal should have a balance of all six flavors. You enter and clean your banana leaf with water. The staff them comes over, gives you a large pile of rice, a papad (crispy fried tortilla cracker like used to break up and put with the rice and curry to crunch it up) and then walks away. The next person comes with a carrier that usually has three different dishes; One a dry mixture, the other two curries. Then you are given a spread of sauces, sambar, a couple chutneys and yogurt. (Sometimes other deliciousness that we weren't aware what they were) and we were set. A fully vegetarian meal with basically free refills sans utensils. (We only got comfortable with the idea of eating with our hands the last week of our trip while in Tamil Nadu) the thali had spicy flavors, sweet (oh yeah a small ramekin of dessert is given too, usually something similar to arroz con leche either with rice or rice noodles... add a little cardamom and it's the perfect way to finish a meal) we worked our way through the three dishes adding what ever combination of sauces until my leaf was almost empty and belly mostly full. We learned at the end of our trip the yogurt wasn't to be used (although I did on various occasions) in conjunction with the other dishes but after you eat them... and your mouth and belly is full of spices and various flavors... you get a little more rice, pour the yogurt, mix then eat. The yogurt is Meant to be cleansing and soothing for better digestion. 

We learned in India.. it's all about the digestion and balance of the meal. And it was an absolute delight to find the places known for their breakfasts or for their thalis and eat there as many times as possible. The locals were awesome at helping us through the etiquette when we missed the nuances through our extensive observation prior to even attempting to eat the dish. It was amazing. I never left an Indian meal feeling stuffed or bloated or unpleasant and it was amazing. I feel like the Indian cuisine I've had at home had paled in comparison and I am forever tainted and feel like I will be forever searching for the real deal when I get home... we may just have to utilize our 10 year visa and go back to enjoy it just a little bit more :) 

(RRR, home of our first thali experience... we sat for a good 5 minutes observing before we attempted to do anything) 

Beyond the food... the restaurants, hotels or whatever you want to call them, the institutions had a certain feel. They were basic, bare bones with waiters usually serving barefoot and the people in the back cooking in lunghis and serious about their process. 

(this is another institution, MTR, Mavali Tiffin Room, super busy and packed, shared a table with another couple and floundered our way through the experience... as per usual)

 The meals came out fast and delicious every single time. (Although we tried not to look in the kitchen too much) We encountered many quality restaurants but our favorite ls were institutions recommended by the one and only shabs. She set us up for an amazing culinary tour through the southern states of India. 

Lesson learned... if it looks like maybe you shouldn't eat there but it's packed... you should. Second lesson... if you find a place you like, go back there's no shame in enjoying many Masala dosas and thalis day after day... you're only there once! 

[aliamber365]

That time we “met” the Dalai Lama

On our first day in McLeod Ganj our Airbnb host told us the following day the Dalai Lama was having an open house of sorts where people could come in and take a picture with him. We obviously had no plans but were interested in the experience. We were told we needed to be there around 7 am. That was the only bit of information we were given. We left for town at 6:30, the streets already had life as animals and locals were up starting their day. We got to the gates of the compound (it definitely felt like a compound, with the monastery, multiple temples, museum, books store and home of the Dalai Lama inside its gates) and were greeted with a line. As we realized was usual we got in line unsure as to the details that awaited us. We waited for a good hour moving at a snails pace towards the gate. While we were in line, we met an interesting man who is an Ayurveda practitioner in Florida and came to India for treatments and spiritual work. He had just spent 4 days of the previous week attending one of the Dalai Lama’s teaching workshops. Many of the people in line had also attended the workshop and it felt like we had just missed out on something magical. The first stop was a booth where we had to check all our items. Next stop... security. 1) Walking through a metal detector. 2) Passport checks WRITING the information in the first of many ledgers we were to see around India. (Yes, everything is written down in a ledger, to meet the Dalai Lama, entrance into the airport, Hindu Temples, hotels, bus stations EVERYWHERE)

That got us inside and from there we waited... people were walking through the crowd and offering bread and tea. This was our introduction to yak butter tea, traditionally drank by inhabitants of the Himalayas. The tea’s defining ingredients, yak butter and salt, made it thick and interesting to drink at 7:30 in the morning. And we kept waiting... for nearly two hours we waited. Finally around 9 am there was word that His Holiness (that’s how he is referred) was going to come out.  The handlers of the crowd instructed us to get into groups based on our continents for the photo op. What at first was a massive blob of people turned into 6 distinct groups. The Tibetans formed their separate group near the entrance to the Dalai Lama’s home. North America had too many people and was separated into USA and Canada and then USA into two other groups due to its number. (Which was chaos... we are very difficult to deal with in large numbers) Witnessing the challenge in grouping was embarrassing. People were unwilling to change their position because of what appeared to be every individual vying for their prime spot to see and be photographed with the Dalai Lama. (I can liken it to kids trying to be the first in line for candy) Needless to say Ali and I were in the back taking this all in with wide eyes and secret judgment. The USA group was barely two groups when the Dalai Lama’s visit began. 

30 minutes later the Dalai Lama emerged and a silence and sense of peace flowed over the crowd as he greeted his fellow Tibetans first. The tradition and ceremony in meeting the Dalai Lama was beautiful. The group was dressed in traditional Tibetan dress and each member had a white or saffron colored sash that was offered to the Dali Lama then returned to is offered as a blessing. Watching this I questioned my being there and felt truly as an observer. 

Two bodyguards and a third holding an umbrella escorted him. He greeted each group with the huge smile and humbleness he is known for. When he came to our group he was encroached upon like no other. There were two distinct groups now…the ladies that looked like they were going to pass out in their freneticism and those who were watching in disbelief.  However, despite their overtaking of the group dynamic, the Dalai Lama did effect the space around us. It is true, he does emanate serenity as he passes. His handlers moved him a long and that was the end of our “meeting” His Holiness the Dalai Lama.  The whole experience was a clash of ideas and feelings.

 As he passed, the crowd dispersed and we left the temple complex. We were sort of stunned at the juxtaposition of our experience, and the image we imagined it to be. The serene Dalai Lama with the logistics of a tourist driven “photo opportunity”

 Photos were taken, and we have searched for them on his website but have not found them!

[aliamber365]

India, the arrival

So far, our time in india was the longest to date. We were there for 7 weeks and traversed a small portion of the country from north to south. It was an experience filled with many, many different stages that I will attempt to unfold through various posts.  

Prior to our departure from Jordan I was beginning to feel a little nervous. India. Everyone says how crazy India is. We had planned to hit this extremely daunting country a few months into our travel, hoping that we would be “warmed up.”  We’ve heard from from friends amazing stories of its vibrance, colors, smells, flavors etc. but always with the caveat that its busy, crowded and dirty.  It was a great unknown and no matter how much you read or talk to others about their experience nothing will prepare you. 

Our first stop was in the north, a 12 hr bus ride or a quick flight and a 4 hour taxi. After a red-eye from Amman we opted for the flight. Cheap and easy.  We were picked up from the airport by our arranged taxi and began our drive into the foothills of the Himalayas. It was a little before dusk and the streets were alive. There were people, cars, bikes, dogs, cows and goats all sharing the both sides of the road going all directions. The cars were honking and whizzing by passing other cars, bikes, cows etc. The first 30 minutes my eyes were peeled as I was taking in this madness, wondering if this is how all of India was or if it was just this part where we had landed. As the time went on, we got further away from Amristar and the traffic, people, cars and cows seemed never to thin out. There was a steady flow of action along the street until we started to get higher into the mountains where there was still traffic, people, cars and cows but just a little more sparse :) 

Our first town was in the town of McLeod Ganj, Daramsala in the state of Himichal Pradesh. We arrived near midnight and had no idea what this place was like. We woke up in the morning to dynamic views of green peaks surrounding us with a glimpse of the valley below us.  

The town is known for being the home of the Tibetan Government in Exile and the home of the Dalai Lama. The town is small, just a small handful of streets lined with shops and hotels. We were staying in a village about a 20 minute walk out of Mcleod called Bhagsu. 

 We went into town that morning for breakfast and were greeted with the best cup of coffee we’d had in a very long time! (very pleasant surprise) and monkeys.  As we wandered around town the Tibetan influence was stronger than we were expecting. The majority of the tchotchkes sold on the street were prayer beads, Tibetan “aprons” that the women wore over their skirts, singing bowls for meditation, Free Tibet t-shirts, stickers, and patches and these lovely wool blankets (the blanket was a purchase we regretfully did not make.)  

Our initial discoveries about India (or rather little Tibet) 1) Tibetan food is amazing. After coming from Croatia, Bosnia, Greece and Jordan (don’t get me wrong they all have good food, but give me some spice and some flavor!) the Tibetan food was delicious! Noodles, rice, veggies and spice! 2) There appeared to be more Tibetans and Westerners (looking for enlightenment) in Daramshala than Indians. 3) The presence of the Dalai Lama seemed to seep into the ambiance of the town. 4) You never know who or what you are going to run into. 

[aliamber365]

The Dalmatian coast... The water!!!!! 8/16

We've heard rave reviews of Croatia and after our experience there we off those reviews as well. It was a lightening quick stay but we definitely have some highlights. Our first stop was Dubrovnik. 

It is a beautiful city but it was 60% destroyed in 1991/92 because of the Yugoslavian war. The city spent much time to rebuild the beautiful old city and unfortunately you feel like you're walking through a movie set (this could partially be because I was imagining myself in game of thrones walking through kings landing... Not sure) but anyway the city was indeed beautiful. 

If you manage to make that stop try and hit it on a shoulder season as it was packed! While we were there the Dubrovnik summer festival was going on and thanks to Ali's research skills we got tickets to see classical music in rectors palace (also showed in game of thrones;) the music was fabulous. They were two 28 year old musical geniuses. One pianist and the other a violinist. It was a small audience in a beautiful old building. The acoustics were perfect and their precision as they played was breathtaking. I loved it. 

A 25 minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik is the small island of locrum. We went there for the day and got our share of the crystal clear water, rock jumping and sun. One thing we learned about Croatia is that beach is a loose term. It really means ocean access point. There could be rocks or concrete lining the water and people are laid out soaking up the sun and jumping in to beat the heat. They have foam pads that fold up into the size of a briefcase at the stores and not until I was leaving did I realize I should have bought one upon arrival (don't make the same mistake! The 5 euros will be well worth your comfort!) the island was small and crowded but you could use the day to get out of the craziness of Dubrovnik and get s feel for the beautiful water of the Adriatic) We had initially planned only to stay in Dubrovnik and split and to make day trips to the islands. 

After researching more we decided to alter our reservations to include Starigrad, a small town on the northern side of hvar island. It was very quaint and peaceful. There were not many tourists and there was mostly Croatian on holiday there. The people of Croatia were a major highlight. They were very friendly and helpful. When we arrived we were greeted by our Airbnb host at the bus station and then he gave us homemade sherry and the local liquor in pint size (as in small not really pint) bottles so we could taste. The sherry was great! We spent two days in Starigrad and would have welcomed another week... or two! The island life was beautiful. 

Our favorite afternoon was when we met up with the cousin of a friend of our friend Liz. They put us in contact before our arrival and we arranged a meet up. We met Nicoli in the square and he took us to his house where he lives with his mother, father, wife and little girl. 

Their house was built over 100 years before, stone walls, mosaic stone floors and a grand courtyard that led to a lush backward. The garden was filled with not only with veggies for the family consumption but also many olive trees and grape vines. 

As the brief tour of their land came to an end, they invited us to sit and have snacks. They were so welcoming! We had many glasses of wine, delicious treats with homemade olive oil and great conversation. It was a lovely family experience that opened our hearts and made us smile. As we walked back to our Airbnb a little tipsy and happy we stumbled upon a concert in the mail square... it was the local celebrity of Starigrad, the Croatian winner to a show similar to American Idol. Nothing better to end the day with than a little Croatian pop music on a warm summer night. 

Again, swimming in the Adriatic sea was amazing. 

Crystal clear and extremely beautiful. We were there for such a short time, only a week. Croatia is a beautiful country and I highly recommend visiting.  Not only is the water amazing, I’ve read the national parks are as well. They had delicious wine and food... I can’t wait to return and explore more of this unique country. 

[aliamber365]

Internet troubles  11.16

So the internet is been spotty at best as we have been on the road. Even when we get what seems like good internet I can’t upload pictures to tumblr! So unfortunately the entries (which are indeed lacking, somehow with so much time, i’ve seem to have no extra time ? ;) will need to be uploaded at a later date and the entries for Bosnia, Greece, Jordan will be put into the universe as soon as I finish processing our experience in india! There is so much to say but i’ve been neglecting keeping everyone updated on our travels. We leave India on Saturday and will begin my attempt to wrangle all of our experiences and reflections on this amazing, chaotic, and insanely huge country. More to come soon...next stop sri lanka!

[aliamber365]

Catalunya 8/16

After embracing the basque we headed south to Catalunya and Barcelona. But before we took a pit stop in the Pyrenees at the Parc Nacional de Aiguestores. 

The mountains are stunning. Rivers and lakes are scattered throughout the park. We valued the fresh air and open space and realized once again that the mountains and nature need to be a part of this year of travel. It feels incredible to get out of the hustle and bustle into a place that is quiet filled with new vistas at every bend, each more impressive than the last.

The nature and relaxation prepared us for the full next week of pura fiesta in Barcelona. We had an Airbnb in the Gracia neighborhood, what is considered the old true part of Barcelona characterized by its winding cobblestone narrow streets (starting to feel and sound very familiar). It was also the week long Gracia festival. The festival was a combination of art and music. Neighbors put together art installations with a theme and world all year planning and creating.

 There are stages dispersed between the art where music and events are happening from 10 am to 3am. It was a wonderful experience to stay in the Gracia during the festival but wonder what the neighborhood is like when it's not ornately decorated around every corner and music pulsing through the streets every night. Somehow... We did sleep while there. 

Of the many tourist attractions in Barcelona we made the Sagrada familia our priority. In retrospect. I feel great about our decision. 

It was beyond words. The outside is monstrous and dominated the skyline. What really impacted me was the contrast of the outside to the inside. 

It was clean and crisp. It allowed a beautiful play of lighting to occur due to the many windows, stained glass and not. 

The city of Barcelona and the basilica as a tourist place is crazy. People everywhere. But somehow in the chaos the inside of the basilica was serene and brought me to a place of contemplation. Content to sit and take in the pillars, lights and shadows. Beyond the architecture itself... The concept of the Sagrada familia is powerful. It is an incomplete monument, there are still 6 towers to be completed and already has 12 standing at 150ft each. It has been under construction for over 100 years. Generations of families have had a hand in the creation of this idea. From the hills that surround Barcelona you see the basilica standing alone towering over the city. It's impressive. It's amazing. If you have not seen it you must experience it. Even if you have, go back and experience it again. I'm still in awe of the Sagrada familia. 

We spent a blissful week in Barcelona and felt like we could have used a few more to really take it in.  It was interesting to spend half our time in Basque Country and the other in Catalunya. Both regions that do not include themselves in the term Spanish. They are basque. They are Catalan. They are not Spanish. They each have the own language that they maintain as well as a strong sense of culture. This is though provoking because only 30 years ago were they able to learn their language in school again. Under the Franco dictatorship both basque and Catalan were outlawed to be spoken and taught in schools. 

[aliamber365]

Pais Vasco 8/16

We arrived to Basque Country after 4 days in 110 degree heat in Marrakesh. I was in love. We first arrived to Bilbao early after a night of travel and sleeping In the Barcelona airport. Running on no sleep we dropped off out bags and set to explore the city. It was such a contrast to the chaos of Marrakesh I exhaled... Deeply upon arrival. I had learned of the Basque in my university studies and was always intrigued. A community and culture far different from that of the rest of Spain. The language is said to be that of Adam and Eve. And now a region where Michelle's stars reign. 

Anyhow, first stop in basque land was Bilbao. It had a small town feel. There was a lovely Casco Viejo with winding streets and endless pinxto bars (more on pinxtos to come later). The buildings were modern with a feel of antiquity. Our stay was a huge Airbnb outside the old town, shared with other tourists and a family of 6.  Our room was pleasantly large especially in comparison to our teeny tiny medina rooms in Morocco. However we discovered by day two that the lovely host couple and their four children were sharing the living room and small front bedroom. We have mixed emotions about our stay ... The major highlights of Bilbao were of course the pinxtos, wine and the Guggenheim.

Pinxtos are the tapas of the north. However in contrast to Granada the land of free tapas with your beverage, these you paid for. But they were well worth it! They were mini culinary masterpieces. They were delicAte and had any number of toppings. Our first night in Bilbao we went out on the town and ate our weight in pinxtos. We Accompanied or bite size treats with wine that was never more than two euros. It was amazing. Txokoli was their local wine... At home it had a tendency to have an effervescence that isn't our favorite but in Basque Country it was bright and lovely.  Snacking in Bilbao was absolutely delightful.

Next up: the Guggenheim. All I can say is wow. I know... Really a museum that fabulous? Yes. The building itself was beautiful built by frank Gehry (the same architect as the music museum in Seattle). Depending on where the sun was the building took on different expression. The exhibits we saw were fabulous. We entered and were immediately placed in an exhibit hall the size of a football field. Inside it were 8 different steel sculptures by richard Serra. 

He has a piece at the newly remodeled MOMA in San Francisco and another I've seen at the sculpture garden in Seattle. So... Serra works with insanely large pieces of steel that have been oxidized or weathered somehow... And they are LARGE. the art is the experience that is created as you walk through the 12?foot high walls that curve towards and against you. The movement through each piece evokes different feelings. I've loved his pieces I've seen before but 8 of them in one room was completely remarkable. We spent more than an hour in that one room. Needless to say we took a break to return later to revisit what we missed ;) We were also luck enough to see a lesser known Warhol piece.  It was approximately 120 different pieces of the same print with different colors and was designed to fill the space it occupied with no particular order. I believe this was the first time that all the pieces were being used at one time. 

The basque coast was also impressive. Mountainous and rocky, covered in lush green towering over the blue ocean. We explored a few nature sights along the coast and took in many beaches.

After Bilbao we drove to San Sebastián. Many have said that San Sebastián is the jewel of Basque Country and it met those expectations. It was definitely a place for wealthy vacationers. Everyone was well dressed and on a mission. While we were there we continued our search of pinxtos, delicious wine and sun. The beaches of San Sebastián were lovely. Jam packed with people but it was warm and the water again a clear refreshing turquoise. 

We are also in Spain during their weeks of fiesta. In San Sebastián it was the semana grande where the city parties with concerts, fireworks and other events throughout the city. We were only there for the first two days but witnessed the crowds, music, food and drink on the cobblestone streets of the old town. 

[aliamber365]

Granada 7/16

After Portugal we were planned to spend a week in southern Spain. With temperatures exceeding 100 we extended our coastal stay in Portugal but maintained our we three day stop in Granada. It was my favorite city in Spain from when I visited 18 years ago. We were also traveling with a friend (shana Vargas… Holler!!) and she lived there during college. So the visit to Granada was coming back to different times for us. When we were planning I told Ali we had to visit and we had to go to the Alhambra… And of course get free tapas. I guess we’ll start with the tapas. Granada is the last Spanish stronghold of the free tapa. We went on a tapas crawl and were so pleasantly surprised. We though for sure we would get small portions, repeats, and simple items. We however got a large variety of delicious and warm tapas. Yes they were simple but we enjoyed every bit. One place we stopped, bodega Castaneda had an especially old man scene with meat hanging from the beams and barrels behind the bar filled with homemade vermouth :) 

Aside from tapas hopping we visited the Alhambra and explored the streets in search of the street art by El Niño de las Pinturas. The Alhambra was and is identified as the most pristine example of Islamic art. We strolled through the palace and were transplanted back into time. The detail and precision of the walls, ceilings, archways, doors, floors, facades was getting our comprehension. 

We walked into one room after the other and were continually gasping and grabbing the other for a comment On something we saw. Last year in school we discussed math in nature and all around us. The Alhambra would be the quintessential  mathematical model of art and design. Symmetry grew from the center of a tile and expanded seamlessly to the entire wall or courtyard. 

Beyond the detail the cultural component of the history of Spain and the Iberian peninsula was impressionable. It has such a history of different people in power. The moors had power in the peninsula for many years and during that time they dotted the Andalusia with what are now beautiful relics of the past. We were only fortunate enough to see this one but the feeling of the moorish influence in Granada pervaded and sat side by side with the now extremely Catholic countryside.

El nino de las pinturas is a Granada native and a Spanish hero. The UK has Banksy, Spain has El Nino de las Pinturas.  It was beautiful street art that reminded us of the amazing art that is present throughout san francisco. We ventured out after our full morning at the Alhambra to find the art.  (Which we found in a lonely planet walking tour.) The extreme temperatures ensured we stayed inside during the peak hours and assumed this was the only opportunity we would have to seek out the famous artist. His art had clean crisp lines similar to Sam Flores but added an element of watercolor that gave off a softer feeling. He had many portraits of people making a strong connection to real life and the space that his art is in. Anyhow, we loved it. I'm not an art expert so we'll just show you the beauty so you can experience it yourself :)

[aliamber365]

Mad packing

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Gettin ready

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Morocco- It’s a man’s world

Morocco was a world of contrasts and contradictions. It was full of color and life. It's was new and old. Traditional and contemporary. Fast paced and slow. Clean while dirty. 

We rode the ferry from Tarifa and in less than a half day travel from Granada we were in Morocco. We were greeted by our very friendly expat Airbnb host at the port. He took us through the winding streets of the medina to our house. The medina was sensory overload that time and every other time we walked through that medina and every other medina. The colors, smells and sounds were all encompassing and consumed you as soon as you walk through the gate. Tangier felt very European. We thought better to warm up to Morocco through Tangier. While we were in the north we were still able to rely on our English and Spanish to help get by. As we moved south it was strictly French and Arabic (both languages we are unfamiliar with;) Morocco was a learning experience for culture, history and our tolerance for heat. 

The medina is the central market place that is the walled old part of the city filled with small streets that wind in many different directions. Once you know YOUR way in and out it is easier than it looks but you will get lost ... Many times.... Our suggestion, just follow your instinct until you know you are wrong and then take a different genera direction. The shops are plenty and as we were told before our trip... Be prepared to haggle. We are poor hagglers.  Each medina had its character. Chefchaouen was all shades of blue. It was extremely calming with wide (wider) streets and mellow shopkeepers. 

Asilah had its white walls with art that decorates them, all painted during their summer festival. 

Casablanca... The city was so large and oppressive we didn't even dare touch the medina. Marrakesh... Well the Marrakesh medina redefined our idea of a medina. Motorbikes were zooming past the densely filled streets where everyone was going on like it wasn't 109 outside. The souks in the Marrakesh medina were plentiful. They were huge areas dedicated to it's good... Silk, silver, leather, spices. It was the assault on the senses as many described and we tried to take it in as much as we could. At the center of the Marrakesh medina was the Jemaa el-fnaa place... A square the size of 3 football fields. In the center were the famous food stalls, hundreds of them. 

Each area had its speciality. There were the juice vendors, dried fruit and nut vendors, appetizer vendors (mainly a snail soup) and in the middle the dinner vendors where there was meat meat and more meat. We walked through and were met with an onslaught of guys trying to convince us to dine at their food stall. They repeated their stall number numerous times and told is its all the same so you might as well just come back. The one that win us over was stall #31 when he made a joke and said his name was Antonio Banderas. We came back, ate a mixed skewer plate and pastel. Sad to say however 4 hours later I awoke with some funky stomach cramps and then you know the rest. Not sure if it was our friend Antonio or the juice from stand number one but I was down and out for two full days. And somehow luckily Ali was left unscathed. 

Scattered around the square were the main acts. There were snake charmers, story tellers, acrobats, musicians, dancers, monkeys and tooth pullers waiting for people to gather around so that they could give them a show. It became a magical place once the sun set. Tourists and locals alike crowded around each group of performers. We have discovered a love for street performers and wished that we could have understood the stories being told. Ali loved the snakes, I kept my distance. They come towards you, one friend said they actually tried to throw the snake towards him.  NO WAY! 

The heat, the smells, the people and the movement created a scene that was not easier to take in as the days went on. It was a one of a kind experience. 

The chaos of the afternoon and evening was contrasted with the quiet mornings. When we woke up in the morning. The shop keepers were just beginning to come out, open up and clean their space. For the amount of people and trash left behind from the hustle and bustle the medina streets were immaculate in the morning. We were told that each shop was responsible for their portion of the street so they made the clear effort to wash it down each morning before the crowds of tourists and locals began their day. 

The cultural differences of the Muslim Moroccans and our western ways was an adjustment. As we were tourists out and about we found that we mostly had interactions with the men. We learned that the streets are the men's place and the women mostly kept at home. The souks and cafes lined the streets with men of all ages sitting drinking tea mint tea and bullshitting all day long. The mint tea was everywhere! It was a bushel of mint boiled with water and there were at least 4 sugar cubes in each cup of tea.  (Fresh orange juice was everywhere too...that became our wine of choice as there was not a drop of booze to be easily found.)

Another way in which it was a mans world were barber shops on every corner and every man above the age of 20 was freshly shaven and had a sweet new fade.  In contrast the women’s beauty shops were made nearly invisible. Sheets were drawn across the windows. The only way we knew they were beauty shops were because we heard the blow dryers going and the occasional gossip going on behind the sheets.

The medina hopping was quite exhausting so in attempt to keep us cool and sane we went to the mountains, the High Atlas Mountains that is. We stayed at a Berber house in a small village, in a small town. We were out there. But it was worth it. The main reason people come to the small town on Imlil is to climb Toubkal, the highest peak in Morocco and in the whole of North Africa. As we are not trekkers, we did not summit, but we did go on a few adventures throughout through the small town. We learned a little about the Berber life and we got to see yet another beautiful region of Morocco. I believe the population of mules and chickens may have equaled that of the people in Imlil. We were dusty and remote and we loved it for our few days there.

Two more little tidbits... as the Moroccan medinas redefined what a street was... they also redefine cafes. We went on a couple nature adventures, one above in Imlil, and one to a town 45 minutes outside of Chefchaouen. The town was Akchor and there was a river that led to a natural bridge. We thought we were going to hike for a little find the bridge, maybe dip in the water and then find some food somewhere. In fact, all we found was food. There were cafes every 300 meters in the river, next to the river, above the river.... everywhere. 

Each cafe had the same menu, chicken tagine and mint tea. On our return from the natural bridge we gave in and had the menu. It was delicious and refreshing as we ate our home cooked meal next to the rushing river in the fresh are. 

We traveled a good bit of distance in Morocco starting at the very north tip closest to Europe moving south to the middle of the country in Marrakesh. We took busses and ... Grand taxis. They were definitely grand and helped us with our day trips. First... A grand taxi is usually a 1980's Mercedes. They squeeze 4 people in the back seat and 2 in the passenger seat... Plus the driver. 7... Yes 7 people. 

back seat

front seat

unfortunately, we did have to sit in the backseat once with 4 people.  It was all the kind of uncomfortableness you could imagine. much love

[aliamber365]

cabosaovicente

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just some of the beaches we enjoyed! 

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The Algarve

There’s really not much to say about the algarve other than we have found the Portuguese riviera. The beaches were unlike anything we have experienced. The clear blue green water and orange cliffs and rocks reaching towards the sky creating a dynamic scene as we roasted and dipped and roasted some more and dipped again. Each day repeat that at <insert different beach>.

Praia da Rocha