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Should I Send My Dog to Boot Camp?

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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I can unequivocally tell you without a doubt in my mind that BOOT CAMPS don't work.

Your dogs got the way they are because of the way you live with them and their problems are not going to be fixed by someone else. You have to fix the problem yourself if you don't want to see these problems persist.

I don't say this with malice – it's a simple fact. You have not established pack structure and the dogs don't respect your leadership. You may think they do but dogs don't do what you describe and respect their handlers. Pack leaders decide when to fight and when to be aggressive – not lower-ranking members of the family pack.

This only happens because:

People don't understand the dynamics of pack structure.

People are too small to physically deal with a large dog and don't know what they can do to equal the playing field.

People treat their dogs like little humans and not dogs. Oftentimes, as equals. In the dog world, there are no equals. You're either a leader or a     lower-ranking pack member.

People are too lazy to train their dogs.

Sending a dog to a BOOT CAMP will result in the dog learning to respect the people who run the camp. But these dogs will always revert to their old selves when they come home. This may not happen in a week or two, but it will always happen.

Only when owners learn how to become respected leaders and introduce and enforce OWNERS RULES will their dogs ever change.

If you want to solve your problems you can, but it needs to be done by you and your husband. You need to run these dogs through a pack structure program at home. This isn't difficult or time-consuming. It simply means you change the way you live with your dog.

The information to solve all of these problems is here for learning. It must be done by you and your husband. Go and read the article on my philosophy of dog training. You will get a better idea of what I am talking about and probably see a little bit of yourself in that article.

My website has a large number of articles that I've written. Go to the main article page and start from there.

The bottom line is that people need to educate themselves on correct training, handling, and environmental control of their dogs. When they do things correctly, they will have a safe, submissive dog that is under their control.  In conclusion, it is the DOG HANDLER who needs the boot camp, not dogs.

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How Do I Know if My Dog or Cat Is Overweight?

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1) Feel for ribs

“Run your fingers along the ribs, both sides, and see how easily you can palpate those ribs, feel them. In an ideal body-condition score, it should feel like running your fingers over pencils in a breast pocket,” says Purina veterinarian Dr. Zara Boland. Using your hands is important. Looking isn’t enough to determine if your dog or cat is overweight since her coat of may make a visual check difficult.

2) Check the waist

 “The next thing you want to feel is a nice waistline.” An overweight dog or overweight cat won’t have “an hourglass shape when you look down from above and you can feel that by running your hands along the ribs and they should tuck in as soon as you reach the end of the ribs and come to the waist. It’s ideal body-condition score for us, we want the same for our pets,” says Boland.

3) Take a side view 

“And the last thing you’re looking for is what we call a tummy-tuck. So,when you view your pet from the side, you want the tummy to tuck up backwards towards the hind legs. We don’t want a hanging belly-we’re looking a nice, neat, tummy-tuck,” says Boland. That said it’s also important to know if your cat or dog’s breed makes them appear overweight. Your veterinarian can provide insight on this.

It’s Time to Make Changes 

If the body check indicates your cat is too large or your dog is overweight, it's time to change the routine and habits you’ve set. Just like you, weight loss for your cat or dog comes down to calories. To shed pounds, your cat will need to burn more calories than she consumes, and your dog will need to do the same. Look to make a change to both diet and exercise for successful results.

Reduce calories: 

Empty calories—ones that do not have health benefit--add up quickly. Select a food that is complete and balanced and cut out all extra calories:

Eliminate table scraps

Limit treats (no more than 10% of daily calories)

Feed foods with balanced nutrition

Increase exercise indoors and outdoors: 

Cats and dogs both enjoy being active. Stimulate them inside or outside to build muscle strength, burn calories and promote fitness:

Take long walks or run and hike regularly

Create indoor challenges for climbing and jumping

Present stimulating/interactive toys that simulate hunting

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Different Dog Growls and Your Baby

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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One of the scariest moments a new parent can experience is their beloved family dog growling at their baby. It can trigger feelings of anxiety, stress, and thoughts of having to rehome the dog. You may already be having these thoughts and feel guilty about it.

First thing's first, your dog needs your help. Growling is a form of communication for dogs. Different types can tell you what your dog is feeling and how to help. The fact that your dog is trying to communicate its needs before taking action should be reassuring.

3 Different Types of Growls

Let's talk about a few different types of growls and how to differentiate them.

1. Play Growl

If you've ever watched your dog play with other dogs, you've probably already heard a play growl. This type of growl takes place in a playful state of mind, usually during the roughhousing and mock-fighting that makes up dogs' typical play behavior.

However, even though this means your dog is not being aggressive toward your baby, we still don't want your dog to see them as a littermate or playmate. The type of play dogs engage in with each other can contain behaviors such as nipping, mouthing, and physical contact that isn't safe or appropriate for human play, particularly children.

If your dog is play-growling while playing with your child, the best course of action is to monitor and rein in the play before it gets too rowdy. Keep interactions calm and positive, and choose interactive activities such as playing fetch instead of physical play.

2. Warning Growl

This is where we get into more serious growls. Generally, the two states of mind associated with threatening growls are defensiveness and aggression. Importantly, a warning growl when a dog feels threatened can easily escalate into a nip if ignored, which is why we don't want to correct it and eliminate our warning sign. Personal space and resources are common boundaries that dogs can feel threatened over.

Don't let your child harass or annoy your dog, even if it seems tolerant at first. Like people, dogs have thresholds, and an accumulation of stressors can cause them to resort to defensive behavior to enforce their boundaries. We don't want our dogs to feel they can correct our children; however, this means we have to step up and take that responsibility ourselves.

3. Controlling Growl

The issue arises when we have a dog growling in a controlling manner. This is not a dog that feels defensive or helpless or has had thresholds pushed. It is a dog who genuinely wishes to control the child within the environment and is confident in its ability to win an ensuing battle if necessary. Make no mistake; this is a serious situation that requires immediate intervention.

Creating a Safe Training Plan

Separating your child and dog until a training plan is implemented is the first step toward success.

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Socializing your Puppy to Be a Good Neighbor

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Socializing your Puppy to be a Good Neighbor

You understand that establishing good neighbor relations means being respectful of other peoples’ property and well-being.

This goes for your canine loved one as well. Here are a few helpful tips to keep peace in the neighborhood…

When you walk your puppy, keep him off private property, unless you have permission from the owner first.

  Pick up after your puppy. Pick up your puppy’s waste promptly all the time, and everyone will be happier. If you have kids, this task could be an opportunity to learn about responsibility.

  Prevent fence running and barking. If your puppy does this, particularly if he is a large breed puppy, it could be something your neighbors won’t like. Supervise closely during social hour.

  Manage     barking. If puppy is barking outside, bring him in. If he barks inside and you can’t control it, it’s time to get some professional training. After all, minimal barking makes for minimal headaches all around.

  Keep puppy on a leash. It may seem like common sense, but allowing your puppy to run loose outdoors can be dangerous for him, and possibly for others. Even if your puppy is impeccably behaved, it’s still a good idea to keep him on a leash for safety reasons.

  Keep puppy healthy. Feed him nutritionally complete and balanced puppy food. Take your puppy to the veterinarian regularly to keep his vaccinations current, and be certain he is free from internal and external parasites.

  Identification. Proper identification for your puppy is important. Puppies should wear collars with an identification tag. Be sure to follow your city’s rules and regulations regarding puppy registration.

  Have fun! Introduce your puppy to other neighborhood puppies early on. Go for group walks or take a trip to the puppy park with other owners in your area. It’s a great way to get to know your neighbors, and your puppy may enjoy the company of a new playmate or two.

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What to Do in a Dog Emergency

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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What to Do in Emergencies

One of the first steps you should take in an emergency is to call your veterinarian. Be prepared to describe the situation. Your veterinarian can tell you how to administer first aid and how to transport your pet safely. Having a dog-specific first aid kit on hand is essential as well.

Breathing

If the dog is unable to breathe, you’ll need to perform artificial respiration. First, clear the dog’s mouth of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Then close the mouth, place your lips over the dog’s nostrils, and give three-to-four big breaths, 10-to-12 times per minute. If you can’t detect a heartbeat, position the dog on their back or side. Support small dogs by placing one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Perform five chest compressions to one quick breath. Continue this pattern until the dog starts breathing on his own.

Bleeding

External bleeding requires immediate attention, so press down firmly on the area with your fingers or the palm of your hand and then apply a firm, but not tight, bandage. Don’t worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.

Shock

Shock sometimes occurs in situations that involve head injuries, significant loss of blood or fluids, and severe infection. The signs include a rapid heart rate, pale mucous membrane, very low blood pressure, very little urinary output, and a weak pulse. Keep the dog warm and quiet, treat any visible injuries, and take them to the veterinarian immediately.

Broken Bones

Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; signs of a fracture often include lameness, pain, and swelling. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible. Do not use antiseptics or ointments on open fractures.

Heatstroke

Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars, overexercised on hot, or even warm days, or when kennel areas don’t have proper ventilation. Signs include panting and drooling, skin that is hot to the touch, vomiting, loss of coordination, and collapse. You should use cool water, ice packs, or wet towels to cool the dog, but do NOT immerse him in cold water.

Vomiting and Diarrhea

Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system and could be caused by any number of things, from ingestion of spicy foods or poisons to gastrointestinal system disease, kidney or liver failure, or nervous system disorders. If your dog is vomiting with diarrhea or vomiting and has a poor appetite, call your veterinarian and be prepared to tell them about anything that could have contributed, such as access to human medications, toxins, a change in diet, and other possible causes.

Seizures

Whole-body seizures, called Grand Mal seizures, cause your dog’s entire body to convulse, while some seizures may be localized, such as a facial tremor, or sudden onset of rhythmic movements or actions. Stay calm and note how long the seizure lasts. until he begins to regain consciousness. Call your veterinarian.

Stings

Bee and wasp stings can be painful and frightening for a dog. A single bee sting will produce pain, swelling, redness, and/or inflammation. If your dog is stung, carefully remove the stinger with tweezers. Apply a paste of baking soda and water and then an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain. Ask your vet about giving your dog a dose of oral antihistamine. Give him fresh water and watch him carefully. Allergic reactions usually occur within 20 minutes, but can be delayed for hours. Then take him to the closest veterinarian

Choking

A dog that coughs forcefully, drools, gags, holds his mouth open or paws at his mouth may be choking. Don’t stick your fingers in his mouth because you might be bitten or push the object further in. Try to dislodge the object by thumping the dog between the shoulder blades or by applying several quick, squeezing compressions on both sides of his rib cage.

Dog First Aid Kit

Keeping certain items on hand in case of emergency is essential. Remember, a first aid kit is not a substitute for veterinary care. Here is a list of things to include:

Bandaging materials: Think sterile pads, stretch bandages, and bandaging tape

Hydrogen peroxide

Cold pack

Antibiotic ointment

Hydrocortisone 1%

Magnifying glass

Small scissors

Tweezers (for bee stingers and splinters)

Disposable gloves

Cotton balls

Iodine swabs

Extra leash

Emergency numbers for your veterinarian and poison control

Collapsible water bowl

Aluminized thermal blanket

Tourniquet

Benadryl

Ask your veterinarian to explain the proper use of these items, and in the case of any topical or oral medications, be sure to check with your vet before administering them.

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How to Use Dog Parks

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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The Purpose of a Dog Park

It would seem obvious that a dog park is a place for people who don't have a lot of personal space to take their dog for exercise. The perfect example would be apartment dwellers or people who live in big cities.

The second and possibly more common reason with is that a dog park is a place for a dog to socialize with other dogs.

Dog parks can be dangerous but they can serve a purpose. We use dog parks as distractions in order to proof our obedience exercises. The dog never goes inside the dog park. Instead, he stays outside the fence and uses the other dogs to proof his obedience through distractions.

The Dangers of Dog Parks

Every couple of days I get an email from someone asking about problems with their dogs being attacked when they are on walks or running loose at one of the local parks that many cities set up.

People also question me on how to deal with overly aggressive dogs that belong to other pet owners. They also question me about their own dogs not trying to defend themselves when approached by a seemingly aggressive dog. Some people want to know if they should just let the dogs work these problems out themselves.

When a new dog comes into a park that other dogs visit every day, the new visitor is often seen as an intruder into "the personal territory" of the regular visitor. More often than not, they are not seen as a friend. This often leads to either territorial aggression, dominance aggression, or fear aggression.

Dog Packs in the Dog Park

When a group of dogs (3 or more) are allowed to run together in an area where there are no strong pack leaders (human pack leaders), they instinctively try to establish a rank order (or pecking order). If there are several dogs that want to assume a certain rank within this new pack, there are often problems. Too often this results in dog fights to determine what rank a dog will assume.

It is a mistake to assume that every dog in the park is a well-mannered, well-trained pet. Just because it plays with other dogs does not mean that it will play with your dog. The issue of rank has already been settled with these other dogs and the game may be going according to their rules. Your dog will not know the rules and can easily get into trouble. Too often when a fight breaks out between your dog and the leader of this pack, the other dogs in the pack will also jump in and go after your dog.

I get emails from people who are disappointed in their puppy or young dog because it shies away from other dogs and shows avoidance to these strange dogs they meet on walks or in parks. These people completely misunderstand pack structure, many don't even know that it exists.

The vast majority of dogs don't want to be pack leaders. They are perfectly happy with their owners assuming the position of leader. As such, these dogs expect their pack leader (their owner) to protect them. That's why these dogs will run to their owner when they feel threatened by another dog. When a handler does not protect his dog, the dog is in conflict and loses confidence. When the owner ignores the perceived threat, their dogs often move into fight or flight.

When new owners assume the position of pack leader and they do everything right when their pup is young, the dog will grow up to be a confident adult dog. When owners drop the pack structure ball, their dogs grow up to be basket cases (either overly aggressive or fearful). This is the reason I never guarantee temperament in the pups I used to sell. Too many people lack the common sense or experience to properly raise a dog.

How to Handle Your Dog in the Dog Park

When your dog is approached by a dog that looks like it may be aggressive, YOU (not your dog) needs to take the aggressor's role.

Dogs that have the potential to be aggressive are going to have a stiff body. Their legs will be stiff and often their tail will be straight up in the air or straight back (never tucked under the stomach - that's a submissive posture). When another dog does this, it's to make itself look bigger and stronger.

Dominant dogs will T-OFF on your dog. That means standing at your dog's shoulder and put their muzzle over the shoulders of your dog. This is a dominant display.

When you see this:

1. Tell the dog's owner that he or she needs to get control of their dog.

2. If this does not work, then it's time to leave the park. If there was any aggression, you may want to file a complaint or police report. Make sure you indicate that you were concerned for your personal safety and your dogs.

3. If the situation has moved beyond the point where you can't leave, then you need to take things into your own hands. Verbally tell the dog in a deep voice to get out of there. Usually, (not always) this is enough to make the dog back off. When that happens, you need to determine if you have solved the problem or if you need to leave. Always err on the side of safety.

4. I would not go to a dog park without a walking stick or a can of pepper gas. If you are not familiar with how to safely break up a dog fight without getting hurt, you need to familiarize yourself with what to do. (

5. What I do may not be possible for many people with less experience. But if a stray dog were to get aggressive with my dog and I could not verbally threaten the dog to make it move on, I would attack the dog with the stick. I can hear several people rolling their eyes as they read this, but the fact is, by this point, retreat is not an option and I would not allow my dog to be hurt. Often, one good hard hit right between the ears will deter most dogs. If you don't have the confidence to do this, call the authorities because this dog does not belong in the park.

6. If another dog attacks your dog, I would have pepper spray on hand to use on any dog who even looks cross-eyed at my puppy. I would not hesitate to physically go after a dog that approaches my pup. The only ones that would be allowed to come close would be dogs I know for a fact are well-mannered, friendly souls that will be tolerant and play with my puppy.

7. While some breeds are predisposed to fight more than others, every breed has its own bullies. There are too many people out there that don't come close to the label of being a “responsible pet owner.” With the number of fighting breeds growing, the risks of taking your pet to one of these parks is growing every day.

Pet owners should know that once a puppy or adult dog has been attacked by another dog, it will become a dog aggressive animal itself. This only has to happen one time for a permanent temperament change to occur in some animals. You will quickly find that dog aggression is a real pain in the rear.

Finally, if your dog is a bully and is aggressive to other dogs, you need to explain to him that this is unacceptable behavior. Softer dogs can get the message with a simple verbal reprimand while other dogs need to have serious corrections. These corrections can come from prong collars, dominant dog collars, or in some cases, a remote collar. (One should only use a remote collar after they have had the proper training).The correction for serious dog aggression needs to be so hard enough that the dog remembers it the next time it thinks about being aggressive.

The bottom line for professionals is that the correction needs to be so severe that the idea of fighting or showing aggression is not as strong as the respect (or fear) of what happens when he does not mind. For these dogs, the presence of another dog is a big distraction, but they need to understand that if they allow this distraction to take control, then the punishment will be swift and severe. Once they understand this simple concept, they will become much better dogs.

Giving a dog this kind of correction is often not a pretty sight. Many people do not have the temperament or skill to do it correctly. They simply cannot bring themselves to correct at an effective level. Dog fights are serious business and these people should either seek professional help or find a new home for their dog aggressive dog.

In my opinion, one of the most effective tools for trainers who want to learn how to administer corrections at a level beyond their normal strength level (i.e., a small woman with a large dog) is to learn to train with a remote collar.

People with dominance problems in their dog should never bring their dog to dog parks until they have the dominance issues under control. I tell people "If you can't control your dog at home or on a walk, how will you ever control this dog when it's in a dog park with 20 other dogs?"

Recommendations to make dog parks safer places:

 The following information is designed to help people make dog parks a safer place.

Dogs should pass a test before being allowed in a dog park. In my opinion, communities should establish and set up tests that pet owners must pass before dogs are allowed off-leash into these dog parks.

The tests should demonstrate the off-leash control owners have over their dogs while the dogs are faced with extreme distraction. In other words, the owners need to be able to call their dogs back away from a group of several dogs that are playing.

Dogs that can't pass these tests should not be allowed off-leash in the parks.

These tests should include a knowledge of how to deal with dog fights.

There should be parks for small dogs and parks for large dogs. Allowing very small dogs to run with large dogs can be a very dangerous situation for the small dog. The average pet owner has no idea how to break up a dog fight. They also can't comprehend how quickly a large dog can kill or seriously injure a small dog.

Be a responsible handler. There are some basic common sense rules that good owners should follow when they use a park.

1. When at the park and a dangerous or out-of-control dog shows up, leave the park. While you may feel you have the right to be there, you gain nothing by pushing your limit and risking a dog fight.

2. Go to the park during off-peak hours. You will learn when the quiet times are. Those are the times to be there with your dog. If you dress for the wind and rain, there is nothing wrong with having the entire park to yourself.

3. When a dog pile or dog fight occurs, immediately call your dog away from the pack. There is nothing wrong with using a remote collar and practice calling your dog away from chasing a group of dogs.

4. There is nothing wrong with teaching your dog that you are more fun than other dogs at the dog park. When you go, play the games your dog loves away from the dog pack.

5. When your dog is off-leash at the park, 100% of your focus should be on your dog.

6. If you wish to socialize with other dog owners, that's fine. Just do it when you have your dog on a leash.

7. Don't make the dog park the only out-of-the-home experience for your dog. Take it for walks, take it swimming (when possible), play or train in different locations. People who only take their dog to a dog park set themselves up for a dog that will get out of control. Dogs with a lot of energy who only go to the dog park will take the attitude of “USE IT OR LOSE IT” which means they can get wild.

8. In my opinion, people should learn how to use a remote collar. Remote collars are invisible leashes. They should study my low-level stimulation training and understand when they can and cannot use a collar in a dog park. (Don't use a collar in the middle of a dog fight, the dog will think that his opponent is causing the stimulation and fight harder).

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How Do You Decide that Today is the Day to Put Your Best Friend to Sleep?

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The recent death of a friend's 13-year-old German Shepherd again reminded me of January 5th, 1998 (the worst day of my life to date). I was forced to make the hardest decision I have ever been faced with and that was to put my best friend (Nickie) to sleep. This was something I had put off for months.

Going through the process to make this decision for an old or sick dog is a long and painful experience.

Mine went something like this:

Boy he's not looking too good today.

The steroids really made him act like he did 3 or 4 months ago; this is great!

He is not able to hold his bladder (because of the steroids). This is hard for him. He knows he shouldn't be having accidents in the house. It     embarrasses him. He is so proud.

The heck with the steroids. They are fixing one problem but causing him too many other problems. It's not worth it (for him.)

Now he can't walk up stairs again.

God he's getting worse again. I know I am going to have to make the decision. I can't even think about it!

I don't mind picking him up and carrying him down the steps to the front yard so he can relieve himself. I have to steady him. His old legs are a little     wobbly.

"How do I know what day is going to be THE DAY"? Look at the way he looks at me. Do I wake up one morning and decide, "today is the day I am going to be a cold hearted S.O.B. and call the vet"? No. I don't mind     carrying him outside. It's not so hard and I really don't mind cleaning up     after him in the house, it's not like he meant to do it.

God, he fell down the steps again. That really hurt him. He still has the heart but the body is gone.

Am I keeping him alive for myself or for him?

Shit, he can't even get up this morning. He was forced to lie in a pool of urine all night because he couldn't move. Today is the day. Thank God my vet will come to the house.

The vet is here and I don't have the guts to watch this. I give him one last hug. I have to leave the house crying like a baby. Thank God for my ex-wife. She held him until the end.

Every now and then when things slow down I find myself thinking of our times together. It almost always brings a lump to my throat and quite often a tear to my eye.

We sure had some good times.

It's been 11 months and 6 days. As I wrote this, I started to cry again. I can't help it. Who cares? Not me! I still miss him and think about him every day when I look at his pictures in my bedroom.

The answer to the question of "When is the right day?" should always be when you ask "Am I keeping him alive for me and not for him?"

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How to Break Up a Dog Fight Without Getting Hurt

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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Breaking up a dog fight can go bad in a heartbeat. This is serious business. So, know your limitations and don't get into the middle of something you can't physically deal with. This past week I had an incident at my kennel that reminds me how important it is for everyone who works with dogs or owns dogs to know how to break up a dogfight without getting hurt.

I will start with a warning. Unless you have a lot of experience do not try and break up a dog fight by yourself. Never step in the middle of two loving pets and try and grab them by the collar to stop a dog fight. If you try this, the chances of you being badly bitten are extremely high. People don't understand that 2 animals in the middle of a fight are in survival drive. If they see you at all, they don't look at you as their loving owner. When you charge in and grab them, they either react out of a fight reflex and bite, or they see you as another aggressor. When they are in fight or flight mode, they will bite you. You can take that to the bank.

The Safest Option Requires Two People

The safest way to break up a dogfight requires two people. Each person grabs the back feet of one of the dogs. The dog's back feet are then picked up like a wheelbarrow. With the legs up, both dogs are then pulled apart.

What To Do If You Are Alone

The worst case scenario is that you are alone when a serious fight breaks out. There are a couple things that you must keep in mind:

Keep your cool you have a job to do.

Do not waste time screaming at the dogs. It hardly ever works.

Your goal is still the same; you must break up the fight without getting hurt.

Go get a leash (allow the fight to continue while you do this).

Dogs are almost always locked onto one another. Walk up and loop the leash around the back loin of the dog by either threading the leash through the handle or use the clip. I prefer the thread method.

Now slowly back away and drag the dog to a fence or to an object that you can tie the leash to. By doing this, you effectively create an anchor for one of the dogs.

Then walk around and grab the back legs of the second dog and drag it away from the dog that is tied up.

Remember to turn and circle as they release.

Drag the dog into a dog pen or another room before you release the back legs.

Go back and take the dog off the fence and put him or her into a dog kennel.

Sit down and have a stiff drink (or two).

Living with Two or More Dogs

If you have 2 or more dogs that you are trying to get to live together, it's best to make them wear muzzles all the time. They are not expensive but very effective for this work.

With muzzles on, you can test your training and if the dogs become aggressive, you can safely step in and correct the dogs. It's important to make sure the muzzles are properly fit and on securely. It's also a good idea to have the dogs wear 18-inch drag line.

Some Things to Keep in Mind

Remember that females usually fight with females and males usually fight with males. It's seldom that a male and female will fight. When a male fights with a female, it is usually a very dominant male who is displaying his dominance over the female and she wants nothing to do with it. This usually is going to happen with a dominant male who is very self-confident and thinks that he is the pack leader.

The bottom line on dog fights is that unless you are trained, it is best to never step into the middle of them. In the worst case, let them fight. It may result in death or severe injury to one of the dogs, but it's not worth the damage it could cause to you if you make a mistake trying to end the fight.

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Dealing With the Dominant Dog

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is failing to recognize signs, signals, or warnings that dogs offer before they bite. Pet owners don't understand how strong pack instinct is in their family dog. This lack of understanding is what gets them into trouble.

Dogs, by nature, are social animals. Their instinct makes them want to be part of a social group. This is the same for horses, chickens, and many other species. Each social group is a hierarchy of members.

There is a saying in the dog world that there are no equals within a group of dogs. Every social group will have its own pecking order. Lower-ranking members always defer to higher-ranking members. If the group doesn't have a clear leader, one member will always step forward to become the leader even if it's not genetically predisposed to leadership. What's interesting is that many times, a dog that finds itself at the top of the social group doesn't feel comfortable in that position.

Rank is almost always communicated through subtle behaviors that each member of the pack understands and respects. Over time leaders will always establish their own set of rules that all members of the pack are expected to live by. There are well-understood consequences for breaking rules.

Dog owners can and must learn to become leaders even if they are not predisposed to leadership. They need to think about establishing their own set of rules that their dog is expected to live by. These rules can be no biting the leader, no inappropriate aggression to visitors, no jumping up on people, stay away from small children, etc.

Owners must also learn to be 100% consistent in enforcing those rules. When a dog believes that every single time it breaks a rule there will be some form of consequence, that dog is less likely to break a rule. Once that threshold is reached (where the dog accepts and lives within the framework of the leader's rules), that dog becomes an easy dog to live with.

For that to happen, dog owners and their dogs must come to an understanding that every single time the dog breaks a rule, there will be some form of consequence. This doesn't necessarily mean the dog gets a strong physical correction every time. Some dogs, with soft temperaments, may only need a verbal warning while other dogs need a leash correction for the same infraction. Learning to evaluate temperaments falls under the category of "the art of dog training".

Just as important, owners must be consistent. They can't pick and choose when to apply a consequence. If they do this, they end up with a dog that will pick and choose when to obey a rule. Inconsistency always leads to some level of behavioral issues.

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Dog Growls and Babies

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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One of the scariest moments a new parent can experience is their beloved family dog growling at their baby. It can trigger feelings of anxiety, stress, and thoughts of having to rehome the dog. You may already be having these thoughts and feel guilty about it.

First thing's first, your dog needs your help. Growling is a form of communication for dogs. Different types can tell you what your dog is feeling and how to help. The fact that your dog is trying to communicate its needs before taking action should be reassuring.

3 Different Types of Growls

Let's talk about a few different types of growls and how to differentiate them.

1. Play Growl

If you've ever watched your dog play with other dogs, you've probably already heard a play growl. This type of growl takes place in a playful state of mind, usually during the roughhousing and mock-fighting that makes up a dogs typical play behavior.

However, even though this means your dog is not being aggressive toward your baby, we still don't want your dog to see them as a littermate or playmate. The type of play dogs engage in with each other can contain behaviors such as nipping, mouthing, and physical contact that isn't safe or appropriate for human play, particularly children. If your dog is play-growling while playing with your child, the best course of action is to monitor and rein in the play before it gets too rowdy. Keep interactions calm and positive, and choose interactive activities such as playing fetch instead of physical play.

2. Warning Growl

This is where we get into more serious growls. Generally, the two states of mind associated with threatening growls are defensiveness and aggression. Importantly, a warning growl when a dog feels threatened can easily escalate into a nip if ignored. Personal space and resources are common boundaries that dogs can feel threatened over. Don't let your child harass or annoy your dog, even if it seems tolerant at first. Like people, dogs have thresholds, and an accumulation of stressors can cause them to resort to defensive behavior to enforce their boundaries. We don't want our dogs to feel they can correct our children; however, this means we have to step up and take that responsibility ourselves.

3. Controlling Growl

The issue arises when we have a dog growling in a controlling manner. This is not a dog that feels defensive or helpless or has had thresholds pushed. It is a dog who genuinely wishes to control the child within the environment and is confident in its ability to win an ensuing battle if necessary. Make no mistake; this is a serious situation that requires immediate intervention.

Creating a Safe Training Plan

Separating your child and dog until a training plan is implemented is the first step toward success. Your dog needs help understanding new coping behaviors and household management.

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Dog Aggressive Dogs

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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One of the most common problems that dog owners email us about is unwanted dog aggression. There are many reasons for dogs being aggressive to other dogs, cats, or other animals.

To begin to understand the solution to dog aggression one must first understand what triggers the aggression. There are 20 to 30 categories of dog aggression.

One of the more common reasons a dog becomes dog aggressive is because that dog has been attacked by another dog. Pet owners need to understand that once their dog has been attacked or even scared by another dog that pet dog will be dog aggressive its entire life. This only needs to happen one time to become a lifelong problem.

I compare this to anyone who has ever been robbed or mugged. This has a lifelong effect on how that person perceives the world.

Pet owners always need to be aware of their dog's personal safety.

They should never allow their puppies to be around strange dogs. To do so is the same as playing Russian roulette with their dog's mental stability. If their puppy is attacked, they will then own a dog aggressive dog.

The same goes for pet owners who take their dogs to dog parks. There is no way of knowing if one of the dogs in that park has dominance or aggression issues. If there is a dog aggressive dog at the park and it attacks your dog - you now have a dog aggressive dog because one dog attack is all it takes to change a happy-go-lucky dog to a dog aggressive dog.

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Being a Pack Leader to Your New Puppy

Published by Alpha Dog Training

https://www.alpha-dog-training-slc.com

When people bring an 8-week old puppy home their first concerns are "what should I feed my puppy?" and "how do I stop it from peeing on the floor?" These are important and credible concerns, but equally important and often ignored, is the concept of how to establish yourself as your new pup's pack leader.

Pack Structure

Dogs are pack animals, just like wolves are pack animals. They are predators. Horses and cows on the other hand, are herd animals. Being herd animals also makes them prey (food) for predators.

The Beginning of Pack Structure

When a puppy is raised with litter-mates they begin to establish their family pack at about 4 ½ weeks of age. They start by playing with one another.

They bite and push each other around. Those pups that bite the hardest and push the most become the higher ranking pack members of the litter.

What is a pack leader?

When people get puppies they need to establish themselves as the new pack leader. To do this correctly they should first understand exactly what a pack leader is.

Pack leaders are aloof, they are calm, and they are self confident. A pack leader is fair in how he lives with pack members. While the pack leader is a dictator, he is a fair dictator who enforces a well defined set of rules that members know, understand and are expected to live by.

Where does it start?

When a puppy comes to your home its only experience in life has been with its mother and littermates. It sees that things have changed, but it has no reason to believe that how it interacts with a family pack has changed.

It has played with littermates by biting and chasing, so that's how it thinks it should continue to interact within a family pack.

Establishing the Tether

When we bring a pup home we always use a dog crate. Those who don't use a crate are making a mistake. Those who won't use a crate should just quit reading because they are wasting their time to read further.

Our first goal is to reduce the possibility of house training mistakes and to teach the pup that being wild in the house is not going to happen.

Controlling the Wild Puppy

When people get puppies with a lot of prey drive they are often at a loss as to what to do to control the little alligator they now live with.

The simple answer is to redirect the puppy into a toy.

As I explained earlier, puppies play by using their mouth. They see littermates as prey objects. When they come into your home and start chewing on you, they see you as a prey item. Your job is to teach them that toys are now prey items and not your hands, arms and legs.

Doors and Gates

Going through doors, going through gates, and coming down stairs first are a huge things in terms of rank for a dog. All dogs, puppies or adults, get excited when it's time to be let out or time to come back in the house. Without training they will all bolt out the door. This is not only annoying, it can be dangerous.

Toys

There is no question that people quickly fall in love with their puppies. Many buy their pets toys. I recently saw a reality TV show in which a women spent over $100 a week buying her dog new toys. Boy, do I wish I could send her a catalog...

With this said, we don't leave toys lying around our home. We take the approach that the dog does not own any toys. The toys are our toys and we allow the pup to play with "OUR TOYS." But we always take the toys away when the play time is finished.

Taking the Toy Away from the Puppy

After play, when it comes time to take the toy away, we say "OUT" (any word will do as long as we are consistent and stick with the same word) and offer to trade the pup a really good treat for the toy.

We simply let them smell the treat and when they spit out the toy they get the food. If we want the game to end, we do a slight of hand to get the toy out of the picture and make it disappear. We don't tease them with the toy once we take it away. That's poor leadership and is counter productive to a good bond.

Other Dogs and Puppies

I have written extensively about the fact that we never allow our puppies to be around other dogs or puppies. If we are raising two pups at the same time we never allow them to play together. We want our pups to look at us as their source of fun and excitement and not another dog.

I get emails all the time from people who have serious behavioral problems because they mistakenly bought two pups which are now 12 to 24 months old. These dogs are now anti-social and are more difficult to train. Many have aggression problems.

If we are out for a walk and are approached by another person walking their dog, we NEVER allow the other dog to come up and smell or greet our puppy. I cannot stress this enough.

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Is it OK for Your Dog to Be in Your Bed?

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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Is it OK for Your Dog to Be in Your Bed?

Having your dog on your bed is not in and of itself a mistake. The whole "it makes them equal to us in their eyes" is old thinking and not part of our current understanding of dog training. Anyone who is still passing you information like this has not updated their thinking in a while!

We no longer need to worry about ranking or "alpha" or "omega" when living with and training our dogs. All we need to do is train for the behaviors we want. Not only can't we control what is in the dogs mind, we can never know it.

How do you even know what alpha is, anyway? Does getting off say, "I defer to you and I am omega here, giving you the bed," or does it say "I am alpha here and choose to let you have the bed to yourself, for I am magnanimous." You never, I repeat, never know what is in a dog's mind and we shouldn't include our suppositions about it in our training program.

Train for the behaviors you want, help your dog overcome her fears, bond with her and help her understand you are benevolent and will give her structure, and stop worrying about status, rank, dominance, submission (in fact, I will go so far as to say you can banish them from your vocabulary) and read as much of the *current* and *positive* literature on dog training as you can!

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Litter Box Training Your Dog

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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To teach your dog to use a litter box or fake grass potty area, follow the steps below and continue on to the next step once your dog uses the papers or pads two times in the previous step.

Set up an exercise pen and cover the floor inside the area with newspapers or potty pads. Give your dog dog broth to drink in order to get lots of repetitions and begin work on this over the weekend.

Crate your dog, and then every 30 minutes place him in the pen for 5 minutes     (set a timer). If he "goes". he gets a big treat and gets 30     minutes of freedom. If he doesn't "go"then back in the crate for     another 30 minutes. Repeat!

Continue to feed your dog broth. Once your dog is pottying reliably on the papers or pads, reduce the area of the papers/pads until you are down to the final size area that you wish to use.

Once he is pottying on the smaller area of papers or pads, transfer the papers or pads into the final potty area or "litter box".

If your dog is comfortable now using the potty area, the next step is to leave the exercise pen door open and after you take him out of his crate, encourage him to go in by himself to potty. You are almost there!

Now you can remove the exercise pen and take your dog out of the crate and watch carefully so that you can encourage pottying in the potty area.

Now, move the potty area to its final place and work on getting your dog to use it in that location.

Once your dog is going to the potty area and "going" with your guidance, you can remove the crate and simply supervise (of course rewarding any breakthroughs).

A Male Wrap might be a helpful preventative for your boy dogs at this stage. You may need to encourage your dog to go to his potty area from areas in the house that are farther away.

Continue rewarding your dog for using the potty area / litter box for a few weeks. If there are any accidents, you will want to increase your supervision and decrease the amount of freedom your dog has. You can decrease freedom by keeping your dog in a small area such as a crate, pen or indoor tether.

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 Tips to Calm Your Dog During Fireworks

 Published by Alpha Dog Training

 https://www.alpha-dog-training-slc.com

      Get plenty of exercise with your pet during the           day to decrease any pent up nerves/energy when the fireworks start.  

      Provide a safe space for your pet in a familiar and comfortable room inside. Play some Anti Anxiety Music for Dogs calming music, white noise, or the TV to help drown out the fireworks. Ensure all doors and windows are closed.

             Distract with high value treats and toys.  Try a Kong with frozen peanut butter to keep them busy and happy.

             Consider an anti-anxiety wrap like the Thundershirt Calming Wrap to provide gentle pressure that helps decrease anxiety and stress for some pets.  

         Make sure your pet has proper identification - Check your pet’s identification tag for up to date contact information. Tip:If you don’t have time to order a tag with accurate information, you can always use a luggage tag to add your information and attach it to the collar.

            Microchip your pet to help  your local officials get your fur-baby back to you in the chance  they do fearfully flee... Although microchips are not tracking devices, they do help lost pets be reunited with their parents. Make sure your contact information is up-to-date, and if your pet isn’t          microchipped. Use your app to request a microchip appointment today!

       Contact your vet to discuss prescription        sedatives and other options to help decrease the fireworks trauma for        your furry-friend.

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The Only Good Dog is a Tired Dog!

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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The alarm goes off at 5:30am! My face, still buried in the pillow, reluctantly rises just enough to allow my arm to reach out in desperation to hit the snooze button.

There. Peace.

Moments later, “Yip, yip!” goes the new client’s dog. This is the story of my life when it comes to checking in a new puppy (or even older dog) to my resident training program. As I begrudgingly drag myself out of bed, stuff my feet into flip flops and fasten a robe around my waist in utter grumpiness, the yipping escalates, and the dog is now like a tornado. The crate is actually rocking back and forth like a MayTag washing machine…By the time I am able to unlatch the crate door, Fluffy has now turned into a Tasmanian Devil!

By the time the new training dog is taken outside to potty, the rest of the household is now awake and ready to rumble. I have officially started the day off as a bonafide grouch. Only freshly ground and brewed roast coffee will bring joy to life.

It may not be terribly difficult to imagine this scenario. In fact, this is the root of many client frustrations I experience as a professional dog trainer and coach. Many of my new clients with super high energy, destructive dogs often admit to me that they attempted some sort of management/containment training with their dog, but not seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, and losing copious amounts of sleep, they gave up.

Somehow, this started the slide down the slippery slope where the dog was then allowed to sleep loose, which led to destructive behavior or accidents. So, the dog was put outside more to “burn off energy”which led to barking dog complaints by the neighbors, barrier frustration, and so on. So, the client attempted to walk the dog, only to be further frustrated by a barking, unruly dragon at the end of the leash.

Never fear. It all goes back to basics first. While your new issue may be leash walking, it likely all stems with energy and behavior management around the home. By creating an energy burn plan for your energetic pooch. Here are some tips to help you out:

Tip 1: A Tired Dog is a Good Dog

A tired dog is a good dog! A treadmill is a GREAT way to burn off a little extra energy before bedtime, on rainy days, or when you simply have a dog who needs a little extra burn before their daily excursions. I WALK my dogs predominately on the treadmill. You might add five minutes of trotting to get the tongue lolling, but mostly calm walking is best to condition a relaxed mind.

Tip 2: Teach Your Dog Patience

Teach your dog the concept of patience. We tend to go places. We always have a destination. In horse training there is a method of tying a horse on what is called a patience pole. They simply learn the skill of doing nothing for long periods affixed to a pole sunk in the ground. In dog training, your dog needs to learn to be patient and relaxed while on leash. YOU can be the patience pole. If it can be done with a thousand pound animal, surely we can teach Fido to just wait. Do nothing. Go no where. Coffee shop patios are great for this.

Tip 3: Make a Training Box

Get the equipment to help you accomplish these things. Make a training box or bag. Training leashes, collars, Bitter Apple Spray for barking, squirt bottles, treats are all part of my training box. You may need a pro to help you properly implement their use and perfect techniques, but without the right gear you are wasting your time.

Tip 4: Double Up with Exercise + Patience

Pick three to four activities lasting an hour or more to do with your dog each week to burn exercise, then practice being a patience pole during that activity for 15 of those minutes. Hiking, biking, trip to the beach or lake, field trip to Petsmart or Home Depot, etc.

Tip 5: Enrichment Treats

Enrichment treats such as peanut butter stuffed inside stuffed Kongs. Knuckle bones, bully sticks, and pig ears are all example of some great enrichment items to create calmness while inside the home, kennel, or crate.

Conclusion

So, stock up your training bag. Get a strategy in place to pre burn some energy BEFORE your dog excursion, and schedule your weekly field trips. Put a plan in place and try it for two weeks and you will see a big difference in your dog's behavior.

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Introducing a New Dog into Your Pack

Published by Alpha Dog Training

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Bringing a new dog into a home is always an exciting time. It's like adding a new family member or guest to the household. While much has been written on bringing puppies into the home - very little has been written about bringing new adult dogs into the home.

The human pack leader makes it crystal clear that aggressive behavior is unacceptable and will not be tolerated.

The human pack leader shows his dog or dogs that he will protect them FROM OTHER DOGS. This is a very important issue that the average dog owner doesn't realize, but I guarantee you your dog does.

When it's done correctly the first few weeks of your relationship with the new dog set the stage for the rest of your dog’s life. The minute a dog meets you he starts to evaluate you as a leader. If you know this it's easy to set yourself up as a pack leader.

Your job as THE PACK LEADER IS TO SHOW YOUR DOGS THAT YOU WILL NOT TOLERATE AGGRESSION TOWARD THIS NEW PACK MEMBER.

Pack leaders decide when there will be a fight and by your stopping aggression you are reminding them who the leader is.

If the new dog growls at us or the other dog during this process we either put him back in the crate (and the crate training begins again) or we have the tools in place to give an appropriate correction.

If you have a rank problem between you and your dog then you are going to have to deal with that before you introduce this new dog.

There is no reason to rush the introduction of a new dog into your home. It can take weeks or even months for that matter. We have 4 house dogs. We have 4 crates in our basement one in my office and one on the main floor of the house. While our dogs can be together when we are present, we never leave them together when we are gone. In fact, we only leave one dog out of the crate when we are gone.

Establishing a relationship means that you are subtly teaching the dog that you are the pack leader. This is accomplished by controlling every aspect of this dog’s life.

During the first weeks the only time dogs are around one another is when one is in a crate and the others are loose. We know when they are beginning to accept one another when they begin to ignore one another. Your goal here is to show the existing house dogs that this new dog is now part of your pack.

Once that happens you can start to think about how to introduce the dogs outside of the crates.

We always handle introductions with both dogs on leash with a dominant dog collar. It's best not to do this inside the house.

We handle the introduction by taking the dogs for walks together. If there is even the slightest possibility of a fight we will muzzle the dogs.

The bottom line is to error on the side of caution and safety. Dogs use their body language to communicate so take a little time and learn a little bit about dog’s body language.