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1KW solar all-in-one machine unpacking inspection video (5)

Nstall the wfi module

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1KW solar all-in-one machine unpacking inspection video (4) Connect the AC input test

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1KW solar all-in-one machine unpacking inspection video (2)

All-in-one machine connected to 550W solar panel*2 test

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25 篇帖子了！

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TPS-1KW integrated digital power system unpacking inspection （1）

Introduction and use of main touch screen functions Introduction and use of main touch screen functions

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Custom DAlithium battery

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Electric vehicle battery lithium battery 48V60V72V96V 20AH

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48V wall-mounted energy storage lithium-ion lithium iron phosphate battery assembly

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12V400Ah test

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What is a battery C Rating？

A battery’s charge and discharge rates are controlled by battery C Rates. The battery C Rating is the measurement of current in which a battery is charged and discharged at. The capacity of a battery is generally rated and labeled at the 1C Rate (1C current), this means a fully charged battery with a capacity of 10Ah should be able to provide 10 Amps for one hour. That same 10Ah battery being discharged at a C Rating of 0.5C will provide 5 Amps over two hours, and if discharged at a 2C Rate it will provide 20 Amps for 30 minutes. The C Rating of a battery is important to know as with the majority of batteries the available stored energy depends on the speed of the charge and discharge currents.

BATTERY C RATE CHART

The below chart shows the different battery C Rates along with their service times, it is important to know that even though discharging a battery at different C Rates should use the same calculations as an identical amount of energy, in reality there are likely to be some internal energy losses. At higher C Rates some of the energy can be lost and turned in to heat which can result in lowering the capacity by 5% or more.

To obtain a reasonably good capacity reading, manufacturers commonly rate alkaline and lead acid batteries at a very low 0.05C, or a 20-hour discharge. Even at this slow discharge rate, lead acid seldom attains a 100 percent capacity as the batteries are overrated. Manufacturers provide capacity offsets to adjust for the discrepancies if discharged at a higher C rate than specified.

HOW TO CALCULATE C RATING OF A BATTERY

A battery’s C Rating is defined by the rate of time in which it takes to charge or discharge. You can increase or decrease the C Rate and as a result this will affect the time it takes the battery to charge or discharge. The C Rate charge or discharge time changes in relation to the rating. 1C is equal to 60 minutes, 0.5C to 120 minutes and a 2C rating is equal to 30 minutes

The formula is simple

t = Time

Cr = C Rate

t = 1 / Cr (to view in hours)t = 60 minutes / Cr (to view in minutes)

0.5C Rate Example

2300mAh Battery

2300mAh / 1000 = 2.3Ah

0.5C x 2.3Ah = 1.15 Amps available

1 0.5C = 2 hours

60/ 0.5C = 120 minutes

2C Rate Example

2300mAh Battery

2300mAh/ 1000 = 2.3Ah

2C x 2.3Ah = 4.6 Amps available

1 / 2C = 0.5 hours

60 / 2C = 30 minutes

30C Rate Example

2300mAh Battery

2300mAh1000 = 2.3Ah

30C X 23Ah = 69 Amps available

60 / 30C = 2 minutes

You can see the 30C rate example on the datasheet for 26650 LiFePO4 power cell.

You can use the formula below to calculate a battery’s output current, power, and energy based on its C rating.

Er = Rated energy (Ah)

Cr = C Rate = Current of charge or discharge (Amps

I= Cr * Er

Cr = l/Er

HOW TO FIND C RATING OF A BATTERY

Smaller batteries are commonly rated at the 1C rating, which is also known as the one-hour rate.For example, if your battery is labeled 3000mAh at the one-hour rate, then the 1C rating is3000mAh. You will generally find the C rate of your battery on its label and the battery data sheet. Different battery chemistries will sometimes display different C rates; for instance, lead acid batteries are generally rated at a very low discharge rate, often a 0.05C or 20-hour rate. The chemistry and design of your battery will determine the maximum C rate of your battery. Lithium batteries, for instance, can tolerate much higher discharging C Rates than other chemistries such as alkaline. If you cannot find the battery C rating on the label or datasheet we advise contacting the battery manufacturer directly.

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Custom battery sample making

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9 Ways to Save Energy

1. Adjust your everyday behaviors.

You don’t really have to go out and buy all new energy-efficient appliances. You can add funds to your wallet simply by turning off lights or appliances when you don’t need them. If time allows, you can also change your routine a little – try things like hanging clothes instead of putting them in the dryer or washing dishes by hand.

One big area to focus on is your utility bills…for example, turning down the thermostat in the winter and using the air conditioner less in the summer. Heating and cooling costs nearly half of the average household’s utility bill.

2. Replace your light bulbs.

Having lights is great, but different types of lights use different energy and therefore cost differently. Traditional incandescent bulbs (yellow lights) cost more money than newer incandescent bulbs. Halogen incandescent bulbs, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) and light emitting diode bulbs (LEDs) use 25-80% less electricity than traditional bulbs and last 3 to 25 times longer.

Although they are more expensive off-the-shelf, their efficient energy use and longer lifespan means they cost less in the long run. It’s a marathon, not a spirit. When it comes to being good for Mother Earth and your wallet, energy-efficient light bulbs are the clear winner.

3. Use smart power strips.

Have you ever heard of “phantom loading”? This is the electricity used by electronics when they are off or in standby mode. No matter believe it or not… when things don’t go well, they aren’t really not going well. It is a main source of wasted energy. In fact, only estimated up to 75% of the energy used to power home electronics when it’s off! When you add them all, you can run up to $200/year. Smart sockets can solve this problem. We’re all familiar with traditional power strips that have a “terminate button” to turn off the power. The problem is, none of us actually close them. Smart power strips can be set to shut down at specified times, during periods of inactivity, via a remote switch or based on the state of the “master” unit. smart enough, huh?

4. Install a programmable or smart thermostat.

By upgrading to a programmable or smart thermostat, you can set the unit to automatically turn off or reduce heating and cooling when you sleep or leave. Now you have no more waste and less wear and tear on your HVAC system. Makes sense.

If you do a math on average, a programmable thermostat can save you $180 a year. A new thermostat will cost you $20-$70 when you buy it. It’s a great investment. Programmable thermostats come in different models and can be set according to your weekly schedule.

5. Purchase energy efficient appliances.

When you look at home usage by average, appliances use about 13% of a home’s energy. When you’re shopping for an appliance, keep two numbers in mind: the initial purchase price and the annual operating cost. Yes, models with lower annual operating costs may higher than price of the model, but operating costs are typically 9-25% lower than traditional models.

How do you know what you gonna buying? For sure the appliances with the ENERGY STAR label, which is the guarantee issued by the federal government that the appliance uses less energy than older models during use and on standby. Energy saving effects vary by specific equipment. For example, an ENERGY STAR certified washing machine uses 25% less energy and 45% less water than a traditional one, but an ENERGY STAR labeled refrigerator uses only 9% less energy…so through out our example, 13% is used on average.

6. Reduce your water heating expenses.

How about a HOT Shower? Compare with purchasing an energy efficient water heater, there are three ways of reducing your water heating bills: 

Simply use less hot water and time, 

Shut off the thermostat on your water heater, 

Insulate the first six feet of hot and cold water pipes.

Mentioned above 3 things are easy to follow. If you’re considering replacing your water heater with a high-efficiency model, you should keep two things in mind: first, the type of water heater that meets your needs, and second, the type of fuel it will use. For example, tank-less water heaters, while energy efficient, are also a poor choice for house members of 4 or above because they don’t support heavy immediate use with enough hot water. Did you also know – high-efficiency water heaters are 8% to 300% more energy efficient than older water heaters. This can directly reduce your monthly expenses.

7. Upgrade your HVAC system.

Today’s HVAC systems consist of heating, ventilation, and air conditioning equipment. But the reality is that heating alone accounts for more than 40 percent of a home’s energy consumption. Depending on the climate, the northern half of the United States and the southern half of the United States have different specifications for Energy Star gas furnaces.

By upgrading to “U.S. South” ENERGY STAR certification can save you up to 12% on your heating bill, or an average savings of $36 per year. That’s pretty good, right? But ENERGY STAR furnaces in the northern half of the U.S. that bear the standard ENERGY STAR logo are 16% more efficient, or an average annual saving of $94 on heating bills.

When you look at air conditioning, the difference goes not that much — on average, it only accounts for 6% of a household’s total energy consumption. ENERGY STAR central air conditioning units are 8% more efficient.

The last but not least, ventilation – which can also help you save money. A ventilation system consists of a network of ducts that distribute hot and cold air throughout your home. If ductwork is not properly sealed or insulated, it can add hundreds of dollars to your heating and cooling bills each year. Getting things properly insulated and working properly pays off and can cut your heating and cooling bills by up to 20%.

8. Weatherize your home.

Weatherizing or sealing any air leaks around your home is a great way to save money. First look at the common places – vents, windows, and doors. Check to see if there are no cracks or openings between the wall and vent, window, or door frame. If you do see any, you need to seal them. 

To seal air leaks between a wall and window, you can apply caulk. For cracks between moving objects, like a sliding windows or doors, you can apply weather stripping. Weather stripping and caulking are simple air sealing ways that typically pay for themselves in less than a year. You can get these at any DIY store. Air leaks can also happen through openings in the wall, floor, and ceiling from plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring. So check these locations too. 

Air leaking also happen a TON in your attic, through small openings. Whether it is through ducts, light fixtures, or the attic hatch, hot air will rise and escape through small openings. As heat moves from warmer to cooler areas, these small openings can make your heating bill even higher if your attic is not insulated well. To make sure you’re getting the best results, you should fully insulating your home.

9. Move towards solar power.

Solar power is here to stay and costs are coming down. According to the most recent report from Google, Solar has seen an 90% decrease in cost per megawatt hour from 2012 to 2020. The chart below shows how solar compares to the other energy sources. This is mostly due to the economy of scale and government programs. And if you accompany that with leaving behind the old lead batteries often used in solar installations and replacing those with Lithium Ion Batteries, then it changes things in a big way. New technology can make a tremendous difference. For example, lithium Ion batteries store solar energy, holds a charge for a year with relatively no maintenance, and can last for more than a decade. You can’t do that with lead acid batteries. 

Bonus Tip: Give Lion Energy a try.

We hope these tips will lead you towards achieving an eco-friendly home. Remember, it takes practice, preparation, and perseverance. At DA Lithium, we’re evolving the powering of everyday life with renewable energy. 

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Laser spot welding lithium iron phosphate battery

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Dalithium’s interpretation of the discharge rate of lithium batteries

What’s C-rate?

The C-rate is a unit of declared current value used to estimate and/or specify the expected life time of a battery under variable charge/discharge conditions. The charge&discharge current of a battery is measured in C-rate. 

Most portable batteries are rated at 1C. This means that a 1000mAh battery will supply 1000mA for one hour if discharged at a rate of 1C. The same battery discharged at 0.5C can supply 500mA for 2hours. At 2C rate, a 1000mAh battery can deliver 2000mA for 30 minutes. 1C is usually referred to as a one-hour discharge; 0.5C for two hours, and 0.1C for 10 hours.

The capacity of a battery usually measured with a battery analyzer. If the analyzer’s capacity reading is displayed as a percentage of nominal rating, it will show 100% if a 1000mAh battery can supply this current for one hour. If the battery cut off by delivering only 30 minutes, it will show 50%. New batteries sometimes provide more than 100% capacity. When discharging a battery by using a battery analyzer that allows setting different discharge C-rates, higher capacity readings are observed if the battery is discharged at a lower C-rate and vice versa.

By discharging a 1000mAh battery at 2C or 2000mA, the analyzer achieves full capacity within 30 minutes. In theory, the capacity reading should be the same as it would be with a slower discharge, since the same energy is dispensed, just for a shorter period of time. Capacity readings may drop as low as 95% due to internal energy loss and voltage drop causing the battery to reach the low end voltage cutoff voltage more quickly.

Same battery to be discharged by 0.5C or 500mA over two hours may increase the capacity reading to about 105%. The differences in capacity readings at different C-rates is related to the internal resistance of the battery.

In order to calculate the load current value by the charge/discharge rate, it can be obtained by;

∴ C-Rate (C) = Charge or Discharge Current (A) / Rated Capacity of Battery

Also, expected available time of the battery on given discharge capacity can be obtained by;

∴ Used hour of the battery = Discharge capacity (Ah) / Discharge current (A)

Discharge Capability of high power Lithium cell.

[Example] In High Power products, rated capacity of SLPB11043140H model is 4.8Ah. A Lithium-ion NMC cell.

1. What is 1C discharge current condition at this model?

∴ Charge (or discharge) Current (A) = Rated capacity of the battery * C-rate = 4.8 * 1(C) = 4.8 A

It’s means the battery is available for 1 hour by this current discharge condition.

2. The discharge current value under 20C discharge condition is 4.8(A)*20(C)=96A This battery reveals the excellent performance even if the battery discharges 20C discharge condition. The following is the available time of the battery when the capacity of battery shows 4.15Ah

∴ Used hours (h) = Discharged capacity(Ah) / Applied current(A) = 4.15(Ah) / 96(A) ≒ 0.043hours ≒ 2.6 minutes with 96A

It means the battery can be use for 2.6minute (0.043h) with load current of 96A

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How long will a 100Ah Lithium battery power a Trolling Motor?

A 12-volt 100Ah lead acid deep cycled battery could run a 30lbs trolling motor on Speed 4 setting for around 4 hrs.

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Battery Module Production Line

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How to choose an RV solar battery

Wondering how to choose an RV solar battery charger? This is the post for you.

They say the best things in life are free. That’s certainly true when it comes to powering your RV off grid. Instead of paying for earth-unfriendly generator fuel, why not harvest clean and free energy from the sun?

Of course, to do this you’ll need to make an initial investment with an RV solar battery charger. Plus, you’ll need some knowhow to build your own solar setup. Sound daunting? It’s probably easier than you think! We’ll cover the basics below and do what we can to help you get started.

What’s An RV Solar Battery Charger?

Simply put, it’s a solar panel setup that charges your RV battery. Solar panels convert the sun’s rays into electricity. You can store this energy in batteries, and use it to power appliances in your RV.

That can really come in handy when you’re boondocking (parking your RV off campgrounds) or dry camping (RVing without electrical hookups).

So what components will you need for your RV solar battery charger? That depends on how much energy you need, and how long you want to run your appliances. But the basics remain the same:

Solar panel(s)

Charge controller (regulates the current)

Battery (or batteries)

Choosing An RV Solar Battery Charger

Before you choose your solar panels and batteries, figure out how much energy you’ll use in a typical day.

If you run lights and a water pump only, it’s possible you can get by with just 1 solar panel and 1-2 batteries. If you’re looking to plug in lots of gadgets, like cell phones, computers, microwaves, and TVs, 2 solar panels and 2-4 batteries will do the trick.

Get stuck? You can find worksheets online that can help you “translate” your energy consumption into the battery capacity (measured in amp-hours) and solar panel rating (measured in watt hours and volts) you’ll need.

Or, you can  for advice on creating the perfect RV solar battery charger setup for your needs.

Next, we’ll discuss the types of solar panels, batteries, and charge controllers available on the market.

There are also a few other factors to consider, of course. What if the large solar panel you need doesn’t fit on your RV roof? If this happens, you could install several smaller panels instead.

Weather is a factor as well. The bottom line is that solar panels need sun to work. But not every day is sunny! If overcast days are a concern where you travel, look for panels that will still produce power when it’s cloudy.

What about price? In the end, you get what you pay for. So the highest performing solar panels are those with the highest price tag. If having consistent power is top on your list, go for quality panels made by reputable manufacturers.

Best Batteries For Solar Setups

Choices, choices, choices! What kind of battery do you need for your RV solar battery charger? The standard choice is a . But amp-hour rating and the type of battery can vary.

Consider the following:

Amp-hour rating (Ah). The higher the Ah, the more energy stored. Some RVers can get by with 50-100Ah. But if you want to take longer trips or power more appliances, you might want a 125Ah-200Ah (Or, you can hook up more than one battery).

Battery type. You can get a cheaper lead acid battery, or go for “the gold” and get a high-performance LiFePO4 lithium battery. Lead acid may be adequate for those looking to test the waters. But lithium batteries last far longer, use energy more efficiently, and charge faster. They’re also better for the environment. Additional options include AGM and gel batteries, but they don’t hold a handle to lithium.

What Are Charge Controllers?

The last basic component of your RV solar battery charger is the charge controller. Also called regulators, these gadgets control the flow of energy that enters your batteries from the solar panels. They make sure your batteries don’t get overcharged.

There are two basic types of charge controllers: simple and sophisticated. The simplest kind is the shunt controller. It stops energy from reaching the battery once it’s full. The other kind, a series controller, can gradually reduce the energy flow as the battery charges.

What About Portable Solar Setups?

Sometimes you just need a little extra power to charge small but essential gadgets, like your cell phone. Portable solar setups are perfect for this!

They’re also a great introduction into the RV solar battery charger world. You can give them a test run when you don’t want to mess with installing large panels, or aren’t ready to make a large investment yet.

Portable panels unfold like a pamphlet, and you can place them anywhere! (In the sun, of course). Connect them to your battery…and voila! An instant way to charge while off-grid.

Titan Power -battery offers 40W and 20W versions that can charge 12V batteries. You can fold them up and stash them in a backpack. Paired with a lightweight lithium battery, it’s a breeze to take them on a hike or boat trip.

Whether you’re in need of a small portable setup or are searching for the best 12v batteries to accompany your setup, here at Titan Power -battery, we’ve got you covered!