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Next stop?

SANTIAGO!

My next and final stop in this trip will be in the capital city of Santiago.

Here I will be exploring the city, being a tourist and hopefully speaking with some people at the schools of Architecture in Santiago.

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The Day of the Glories of the Army

The next day, the 19th is known as the Day of Glories of the Army and is the day to honourthe armed forces who fought in the battles of independence.

This day there is more business activities however it is generally still very relaxed with almost all public being off from work. Again the beach was packed with families and visitors all playing and enjoy their holiday together.

In the morning, I hired a bike from my hotel and I set off to visit a social housing project further into the city, it felt more like the suburbs than the main centre, however it was only a short bike ride away from the beach.

This particular housing project is interesting to me as it was an interesting process and radically different way of building housing for the public.

Quinta Monroy is the award winning architectural project from Architecture practical Elemental, led by Alejandro Aravena.

The local Chilean government needed to rehouse families and with limited funding and time the architects had to think creatively in order to achieve this goal and prevent displacement of families.

The project provided half a single unit for families which included all of the necessary amenities for a home and left the other half ready for the residents to finish on their own time. This allowed for the community members to take their time to establish the rest of the home and provided them with their immediate need to rest their head.

The grey breeze block was built and designed by the architects and the other side, typically more colourful and made with many various materials is what the residents have completed over time. The area exudes personality and has a hand crafted nature it. A social housing project where the residents literally built their homes.

I spent the rest of the day, touring the small city centre on my bike, enjoying the views as I went by. I would love to come back here again, (when everything is open of course!), and enjoy the array of activities, museums and restaurants

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The Day of the Glories of the Army.

The next day, the 19th is known as the Day of Glories of the Army and is the day to honour the armed forces who fought in the battles of independence. This day there is more business activities however it is generally still very relaxed with almost all public being off from work. Again the beach was packed with families and visitors all playing and enjoy their holiday together.

In the morning, I hired a bike from my hotel and I set off to visit a social housing project further into the city, it felt more like the suburbs than the main centre.

This particular housing project is interesting to me as it was an interesting process and radically different way of building housing for the public.

Quinta Monroy is the award winning architectural project from Architecture practical Elemental, led by Alejandro Aravena. The project was to rehouse citizens without displacement. Due to limited time and funds, the local government could only build half the homes required, so this project thought to try things differently. They built literally half a home for the citizens which housed their immediate needs, but left the second plot ready for them to build on. This allowed residents to take their time in rebuilding their lives as well as providing an initial roof for their heads. The grey breeze block is what the initial project provided and over time the residents have adapted and added to it, using bright colours and an array of materials, literally creating for themselves a new home and community.

I spent the rest of the day, touring the small city centre on my bike, enjoying the views as I went by. I would love to come back here again, (when everything is open of course!), and enjoy the array of activities, museums and restaurants!

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Fiestas Patrias in Iquique

The last two days have been spent in Iquique. A small city in the very north of Chile.

Main tourist part of the city, which is right by the beach is beautiful. Well kept and pristine, with exceptional walkways, immaculate beaches, lots of plants and trees which gives this area a real seaside feel.

As I arrived late Monday evening I didn't have time to explore and understand the city on that day, so I woke up early the following and began my day.

Tuesday 18th is Chile's national independence day, Fiestas Patrias. This marks the commemoration of the proclamation of the First Governing Body of 1810, and marking the beginning of the Chilean independence process.

The Chileans celebrate this day to the full, with almost everything being closed except for a handful of beach restaurants.

Locals and visitors take to the main street in the centre and peruse the many vendors selling food, drinks, fruits, souvenirs and toys.

I took this time to get myself a completos (a Chilean hotdog) covered with tomatoes, avocado and ketchup. But you can have pretty much any toppings you'd like, including crisps, onions, salsa and more!

I took my hotdog just as the arms parades were beginning. The different regiments and sections of the national army marched through the streets, with locals waving, shouting and singing praises for their dedication and commitment to the country.

Once the parade was over, many people dispersed and headed for the beach! The morning was a bit grey and overcast, but over the afternoon the sun came out in all its glory. I took my spot at the beach and enjoyed the view, the weather and the family atmosphere. As all attractions and businesses are closed for the holiday, I took time to explore and soak in the day, pausing for food and drink breaks.

In the evening, there was fantastic fair held by the Iquique government. There was a huge stage for live acts, many stalls with food, drinks and games for families. The evening was warm and it was an excellent evening.

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Fiestas Patrias in Iquique

The last two days have been spent in Iquique. A small city in the very north of Chile.

Main tourist part of the city, which is right by the beach is beautiful. Well kept and pristine, with exceptional walkways, immaculate beaches, lots of plants and trees which gives this area a real seaside feel.

As I arrived late Monday evening I didn't have time to explore and understand the city on that day, so I woke up early the following and began my day.

Tuesday 18th is Chile's national independence day, Fiestas Patrias. This marks the commemoration of the proclamation of the First Governing Body of 1810, and marking the beginning of the Chilean independence process.

The Chileans celebrate this day to the full, with almost everything being closed except for a handful of beach restaurants.

Locals and visitors take to the main street in the centre and peruse the many vendors selling food, drinks, fruits, souvenirs and toys.

I took this time to get myself a completos (a Chilean hotdog) covered with tomatoes, avocado and ketchup. But you can have pretty much any toppings you'd like, including crisps, onions, salsa and more! And for after some churros!

I took my hotdog just as the arms parades were beginning. The different regiments and sections of the national army marched through the streets, with locals waving, shouting and singing praises for their dedication and commitment to the country.

Once the parade was over, many people dispersed and headed for the beach! The morning was a bit grey and overcast, but over the afternoon the sun came out in all its glory. I took my spot at the beach and enjoyed the view, the weather and the family atmosphere. As all attractions and businesses are closed for the holiday, I took time to explore and soak in the day, pausing for food and drink breaks.

In the evening, there was fantastic fair held by the Iquique government. There was a huge stage for live acts, many stalls with food, drinks and games for families. The evening was warm and it was an excellent evening.

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A whistlestop tour of Valparaíso

After a great week of researching, tours, interviews, meeting the students and citizens of the Open City, I took the weekend to explore the cities of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar.

Friday was the begining of the Fiestas Patrias of Chile, which is the national independence day of Chile. The actual independence day is 18th September, however the Chileans love to take the week(!) to celebrate! My hostel kicked off the celebrations with a Fonda (an open air party) on the rooftop, featuring a local band playing some of Chile's favourites; delicious traditional barbeque anticucho; and the infamous terremoto drink!

I took Saturday morning and afternoon to reset and rejuvenate for my packed weekend and finished the evening with a walk around the neighborhood.

Valparaíso has some of the most incredible street art I have ever seen. The murals and wall paintings are such a big part of their culture and this particular art form reflects the talent and richness of the people here. Some use the opportunity to express themselves not only creatively but politically and share personal memories and history.

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When I arrived to the Open City Thursday afternoon, I meet with Ana Paz one of the first members of the community, who had studied under Alberto Cruz at the school of architecture in 1964.

That same year Cruz and founding partner Godofredo Iommi came together to take a journey or Travesia going through Latin America to discover the centre and 'capital' of the continent. The city at the point which the centre of the Catholic cross lay.

The Travesia was the beginning of the exploration and experimentation of the pair, which encouraged their proposition for the Open City.

The trip started at the southern most tip of the continent, at a town named tierra de Fuego/Land of Fire. On their, the group of Architects, professors, designers, artists and poets; stopped along the way at several points designing and making art, sculptures and building small spaces. They left these things as a way of marking their journey and writing their stories.

The culmination of the Travesia was put down into words. And the poem of Amereida was written together with the other founding members and made into this book.

Anabas and I took a break, had some tea with tostadas y palta.

We had been speaking for over four hours by the time evening fell. It was a conversation of their life as citizens, but we also discussed life in general.

A beautifully kind lady, with a strong understanding of Architecture and art, shared with me a piece of her experience of the Ciudad Abierta.

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Thursday...

I took a long morning in bed, recovering from the shift in time zone and the busy days I'd had previously.

I headed down to the school of architecture and design to meet with a design professor and citizen of the open city, Michele Wilkomirsky. Here we had a great discussion about her life and experience of the Open City and what it means to be a citizen.

We discussed the growing surrounding towns of Concón and Quintero and what that might mean for the people at Ciudad Abierta. I learnt more of the history and the vision for the community and why they are ever looking to experiment and explore architectural space and design in a radically new way.

I asked how the community positions itself within the context of satellite cities and learnt how in practice they may be described as such, but in theory they are very much different and the possibilities of creating such else where may be slim to none.

At the heart of our conversation was the understanding of the cycle and marrying of life, study and work. The idea that the Open City is a place in which the citizens are not looking to change their lives, but to change the idea of life itself. What it means to put Architecture and hospitality at the heart of designing. Not just metaphorically or philosophically, but physically. A concrete yet creative experimentation of building a city.

After our time together, Michele recommended I visit the most fantastic place to buy an empanada in all of Concón. I chose a pino des locos, a medley of seafood, bundled into a flaky pastry then deep fried for extra crispiness and flavour.

I bought my snack and headed on the bus to Ciudad Abierta.

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It had been a long day, meeting new people, sharing experiences and having conversations about Architecture, Art, Poetry and community.

I took a long bus back to Valparaíso. It travelled through Concón, Viña del Mar then stopped at my hostel. I got to see the most beautiful coast.

I was exhausted, but it had been a day to remember.

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A lunch is held in the Sala de Música for the citizens and guests each Wednesday after the students leave for home.

We started off with a cocktail hour with a traditional pisco sour, crackers, cheese and sardines. Then we sat for food with a Chilean beer, and had coffee and pie for dessert.

The hospitality and community is felt even more so during this lunch. The citizens are connecting with each other and their guests and everyone is welcome.

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I had the opportunity of a tour during the workshop sessions. The Architecture is beautiful and of course poetic.

Each Hosperidia has its own unique poetic act which founded the building. The poetry and vision for each is strong and personal to the people of the city, and each has the act of hospitality at its centre.

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Wednesday's at the Open City

For the students the day typically consists of a morning of poetry, some sports activities, workshops and study sessions (tutorials) and the workshop Amereida, then time to head home.

ACT I

The poem is read by one of the poet's of the Ciudad Abierta. This is the poem Amereida, the first and founding poetic act for the Open City.

ACT II

After the poems reading, the students all go to spend an hour or so playing sports and doing physical activities. Many students were adorned with yoga mats, football and volley balls and dressed warmly with jumpers, hats and trainers.

The act of the sports is part of one fun and group bonding the school encourages. As well as keeping fit, I imagine the students appreciate the opportunity to warm up on the early spring morning.

Whilst the students were doing sports, I went to meet and have breakfast with the teaching assistants and masters and PhD students who were living, as long term guests, at the Ciudad Abierta.

ACT III

Once warm, with hearts pumping and blood racing, the students head to their various groups to meet with tutors and professors to engage in a session of workshops. These are based around their current design projects.

However the main workshop is the workshop Amereida. This session starts with an excerpt reading of the poem Amereida and is followed by a short series of lectures given by 4 professors and poets living in or involved with the Ciudad Abierta. Everyone gathers together as they did at the creation of the poem Amereida, and the lectures discuss the relationship between Poetry, Architecture and America.

As the conversation was in Spanish I struggled to keep up, however the atmosphere was very sombre and philosophical.

For the students now it was home time.

FIN

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I arrived off the bus with a group of students studying at the school of architecture and design. Since the inception of Ciudad Abierta, there has been a strong connection and collaboration between the Open City and the university. Many citizens of the city once studied at the school or now teach there.

There is a tradition of weekly workshops, study sessions and activities for which the students are invited to participate in on Wednesdays.

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The journey to the Open City is an hour long bus ride from Valparaíso. I first took a bus to Viña del Mar, then took a second bus towards a town called Quintero, to stop right outside the Ciudad Abierta gates.

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Off to the Ciudad Abierta/Open City today.

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After lunch, I had a chance to take a tour around the school of architecture.

The original house which the school started in has grown considerably as the university acquired surrounding buildings and houses.

The maze of pathways are connected by in between spaces which knits the building's life together, creating a story of the school's growth.

I am spending the end of my day in the school's library. A modest but lovely space to work in, packed to the brim with books, articles and papers.

Original building features such as existing beams and windows, exposed brick walls and heavy doors, are married with unique elements and Postmodern design touches.

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e[ad] PCUV or more formally known as Escuela de Arquitectura y Diseño - Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso.