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Traveling across Japan these two weeks has been the learning experience of a lifetime! While it is one thing to learn of a place, culture, and people, in a classroom, by traveling and experiencing Japan firsthand through my own senses have I developed a greater appreciation and understanding behind the knowledge I have gained thus far. Coming out of this trip I am better prepared to explore the world around me and even more willing to engage in learning about new a different places. Without a doubt, I will be returning to Japan!  

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Returning to Tokyo once again, we visited the Japan Railway Museum! I must say, during my time in Japan, I was incredibly impressed with the punctuality and ease of use with Japan’s railway and public transportation system, and I earnestly with we had the same level of appreciation for both in the United States. While here I was blown away by the fact that they had managed to display the very first train in Japan, which undoubtedly is an incredibly unique and important artifact in Japan’s national narrative. While here, I was even able to sit on Japan’s first bullet train: the Series 0 Shinkansen, and observe how the bullet trains have evolved over the years (smoking trays and seating most notably)! While traveling Japan I was aware that the country was mountainous, but only while actually there and experiencing the environment first hand was I able to appreciate how the train so elegantly connected the country. It is a small wonder today that we were able to embark on this type of trip and cover such vast distances in such a short period of time with such great ease!   

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Kyoto was an incredibly beautiful city to explore, and for the majority of our stay here we toured the various temples and shrines throughout the city. Our first stop would be the Golden Pavilion, which is a Zen-Buddhist temple. Here I was presented with the information that relatively recently during the 1950′s the temple was burnt down in a fire started by a mentally ill monk, which allowed me to reflect on the fact that many of the sites we had visited thus far had in fact been restorations simply due to the fact that the wooden architectural style of Japan is highly prone to such disasters. Even though, what I had noticed is the extreme amounts of care and dedication which were put into restoring these sites in ways which would reflect how they would have been constructed in the past. Another site we visited was Kiyomizu Temple, which is a Buddhist temple on the east side of Kyoto. This temple treated us to an amazing view of both Kyoto and the surrounding temple structures. Most notably I recall visiting the love stone and waterfall here, which split into three streams of water, which if used supposedly had wish granting properties. Earlier in the day we also visited Ryoanji Temple’s famous rock garden, which displayed 15 rocks of various size over white gravel. It was a very nice place to meditate and collect your thoughts. Notably it was very different from any other garden we had visited previously, as it was devoid of any plants, yet still had an organic quality to it. Lastly, along with a group of my peers I was able to visit Fushimi Inari-taisha, the Shinto shrine at Mt. Inari, and climb to the summit. This shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and business, my guess is likely because rice was used as a form of currency, especially in the form of tax especially in the Edo-period. Along the path up the mountain we walked under hundreds, if not thousands of Torii gates. From what I learned in Amano, passing under the Torii brings you into a much holier realm of the gods. As this was Inari’s head shrine, I can see how so many Torii gates could signify an extremely important place. Along the way up the mountain we furthermore stopped at the several smaller shrines dotting the path, taking the time to pay respects and rest before the next leg of the journey. Overall, my stay in Kyoto allowed me to reflect on the heavy cultural presence that still remains within the city. As this was the seat for the Emperor for hundreds of years there’s no question in my mind as to why so much art and culture exist here. Even though he traditionally had little if any political power, the symbol of the Emperor carried weight in the minds of the Japanese and can be seen in this beautiful city.

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Our home stay at Amano was a wonderful and memorable experience which allowed me the opportunity to observe Japanese family life within a small farming community. First on our itinerary at Amano was to visit the Niutsuhime Shrine, which we discovered is an incredibly important focal point in understanding how both Shintoism and Buddhism co-exist in Japan. Here I learned that Niutsuhime Shrine has deep connections with Kobo Daishi’s Esoteric Buddhism, as the shrine sees many Buddhist priests pray at the shrine before embarking on their training. In this way I see harmony being a cultural characteristic valuable to the Japanese people, and in particular, living in harmony with nature is one such expression of this.  Although this idea is valued, especially in Shinto thought, the modern age and industrialization have certainly had a damaging and opposing relationship with nature and the environment. This is one such relationship the Japanese are actively negotiating.

In Amano we were further able to observe and participate in a great variety of other activities. Most notably, we were able to observe a young man begin the process of forging a sword using techniques established hundreds of years ago with the help of modern equipment such as a power hammer. As well as making Mochi, a traditional dish of glutenous rice smashed in a large mortar and pestle which is often served at the New Year. At the home we stayed at our host family treated us to an incredible meal! That night we had Nabe and Takoyaki, and got to observe family life and social practices within the home. All together it was an outstanding time! 

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Visiting Oura Catholic Church was an opportune time to reflect on the complicated history of Christianity in Japan. Nagasaki in particular has an extensive history of international exchange and contact with Europe. Therefore, it made sense that Christianity would have taken root here. This church however tells the story of the Twenty Six Saints of Japan who were Christian missionaries turned martyrs after Christianity was outlawed by Hideyoshi. As Christianity was then seen as an unwanted Western influence--one which would precede colonization, this forced many Japanese Christian converts to move underground as they faced persecution. However we see how with the Meiji restoration that with more Western influence being brought into the country the ban on Christianity grew unpopular and the underground Japanese Christians were able to come out of hiding once again. In this way I find it very impressive that Christianity could have survived in Japan through the over 200 year period from Hideyoshi and the Tokugawa up until 1865, and certainly, it must have been a surprise for the priests at Oura Catholic Church as well.

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The former Dutch trading post on the artificial island of Dejima is no longer a island my any means. Having been reconstructed over where the original would have stood, the complex now lies within the city and far away from the now substantially filled in harbor. Dejima for many years was the sole official contact point with the West, especially when it came to trade and what the Japanese would consider Dutch Learning. Looking at the archaeology warehouse it was impressive to see how much pottery was being traded here, of course in addition to other commodities such as copper and sugar, but it was further interesting to see how also Western ideas and technology were able to travel into Japan through this very spot. Notably, I observed several clocks, firearms, electricity generating machines, and even a skeletal cow, which suggested possible inoculations, having been dug up at this site. In addition to these observations I came across an understanding of how some of these Dutch traders may have felt on Dejima. Sure, they were allowed to trade with Japan here and probably were making quite a bit of money, but it must have been incredibly frustrating being so close, yet so isolated from the rest of the country! My current understanding is that after the Meiji Restoration trade in Nagasaki would decrease substantially as cities like Tokyo would now be open for trade. This is a topic I would like to explore in more detail as I attempt to discover the repercussions of this on Nagasaki.   

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The Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum in Nagasaki were very powerful places to visit, and provide an incredibly valuable perspective on what happened when the city was bombed in 1945, and how to move forwards. At the peace park we observed a ceremony conducted by high school seniors in front of the large statue as they wished for peace. I learned here the man represented in the statue is pointing up towards the bomb as a reminder, and outwards towards peace. The grounds here are filled with memorials and statues dedicated to peace from countries around the world, and the foundations of the prison complex close to ground zero are still visible and also act as a powerful reminder of what happened here. The atmosphere is different here as compared to Yasukuni Shrine. War is not celebrated for its sacrifice, but condemned, to which both of these sentiments can be seen clashing in Japan today with discussions about editing the constitution to allow Japan a greater military role. Inside the museum I am faced with countless artifacts which testify to the destruction which this bomb had on Nagasaki and I am left shaken--melted coins and glass, flash-burns, boiled ceramic tiles, and personal testimonies which all seek to demonstrate the terrifying power atomic bombs can wield. By today’s standards, that bomb was small, what destruction could a modern warhead bring? It is almost incomprehensible.

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The Osaka Museum of History provides a broad overview of the development of the city of Osaka through its ancient, middle, and modern contemporary periods. The museum itself allowed me to reflect on the idea that people had been inhabiting this area for a remarkably extensive period of time, and as such, Osaka has seen many cultural changes occur within its boundaries. What was truly eyeopening was the transition from the middle ages and Edo-Period to the modern and contemporary. Rapidly we see an influx of Western dress, architecture, and technology, yet it has been blended with Japanese culture, such as how I observed a man wearing more traditional foot-wear while also using western apparel as seen in his choice of hat. Looking outside the museum I was treated to a view of Osaka castle, which was the site of the final battle between the Tokugawa and Toyotomi 1615. The battle itself was a turning point in Japanese History, whereby the Tokugawa Clan now could now cement its power, which would consequently bring about the extended 200 year period of stability for Japan. It is still remarkable to see such a historical site displayed in front of modern skyscrapers.  

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Although a bit rainy during our stay in Kanazawa, we were able to explore the Kanazawa Castle grounds and adjacent Kenrokuen Gardens. Both of these sites were quite beautiful to walk through, and in the past, were the property of the local lord Maeda Toshiie during Japan’s feudal period. The castle itself is built using traditional Japanese construction practices, which make use of the extremely intricate method of creating wooden joints without metal fasteners, and served as a center of both defensive and administrative power for the region. As the reign of the Tokugawa Shogunate was characterized by its extensive peace, Kanazawa castle became more of an administrative center for the local lord, who similarly built the adjacent Kenrokuen Gardens as emblematic extension of his ability as an administrator. In other words, to demonstrate his effectiveness as a governor, the local lord tended these gardens and attempted to make them as grand as possible as a way to demonstrate his effectiveness, especially to other lords and the Shogun. He certainly did not fail to impress as the castle and gardens are still being enjoyed today.   

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During our brief stay in Nagano we had the opportunity to visit Zenkoji Temple--a very prominent Buddhist Temple in Japan. On the temple grounds I was able to experience a variety of activities, such as spinning the mandala, which equated to reading the Buddhist scripts, and passing through the pitch darkness of the temple’s underground tunnel. The tunnel and surrounding darkness symbolizes equality and the darkness after death as we search for the key to the Pure Land, this was an incredibly powerful experience in and of itself. Buddhism in Japan has a long history, and it is interesting to see how the Japanese have molded it to fit their lifestyle and beliefs. An example being the aforementioned workaround created by spinning the mandala, which would have made Buddhism more attractive to the masses, especially the illiterate. While on the Temple grounds I was further impressed by the signatures of previous pilgrims seen in the prayer house dating back to the early 1800′s, and the well-worn statue of Binzuru (a physician and follower of the Buddha) within the interior of the temple, cluing me in to the fact that this site has been an important center for pilgrimage and Buddhism in Japan for a significant amount of time. In this way Buddhism further remains a part of traditional Japan which has survived to modern day.

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In Tokyo we visited Yasukuni Shrine, which is a currently controversial Shinto shrine dedicated to Japan’s war dead and has acted as a center for Japanese nationalism in the past. On the grounds is the Yasukan museum, which tells the story of Japan’s involvement in conflict from the Sino-Japanese war through World War II --also know as The Greater East Asia War in Japan. As a history major, I found it fascinating to see how the Japanese tell the story of World War II from their perspective. The narrative portrayed here focused on the idea that Japan was fighting against the encroaching Western colonial powers in Asia, as well as focusing on the sacrifice Japan’s soldiers made to defend their homeland, especially those in the special attack corps. To the latter a very large and eye opening exhibit was dedicated, picturing all the men who died in kamikaze attacks. I had no idea that there were so many. Notably however, some sections of the narrative of World War II were left out, especially the conversation regarding war crimes like those committed in China. This museum was an important place for me to reflect on how different groups and nations tell a story, as I was exposed to a perspective which was actively seeking to find meaning and justify the actions during this period in the aftermath of defeat.       

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The Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and the Former British Consulate of Hakodate both speak of the Western influence which was present in Japan and Hakodate in specific. Looking at the Old Public Hall first, I observed how its construction was very western in nature, and in fact, was designed with this concept in mind. The building was constructed in the Meiji period, where western culture was deemed modern and impressionable, so it makes sense that the designers would use this style to convey this message, especially to foreign visitors and government officials. The British consulate is also emblematic of Western influence and speaks about the “international atmosphere” of Hakodate during the time of its use. In both venues it was possible to identify how this influence effected Japanese culture. Notably, in many exhibits I was presented with several instances of western clothing, but clearly the architecture of both these buildings speaks volumes on how western was seen and both stylish and modern.   

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Hakodate’s Magistrate’s Office is a reconstruction of the administrative center for the Ezo region and Shogunate’s central government building for northern policy. In particular this site has been related to the center of of several key turning points and influences in Japanese history and culture. First off, the grounds themselves take the shape of a star-pointed fortification, which is highly characteristic of European designs, and utilizes traditional Japanese earthen and stone works to construct the ramparts. The star shape design the Japanese would have picked up on through their interactions with the Dutch, and the fact that such a design would take shape this far away from the centers of Dutch Learning impresses me! The fort itself was commissioned by the Shogunate as a way to keep control of the region, especially after Hakodate was opened up to the West in the Japan-US Treaty of Peace and Amity. However, as the Shogunate would weaken and collapse during the Meiji Restoration, the site would become the focus of the final battle between Shogunate Loyalists and those who supported the Restoration in the Boshin War. What strikes me the most however is the architecture of the building itself. It is constructed using the traditional Japanese style of woodworking, using highly intricate joints without the use of metal fasteners, yet is placed in what would have been considered a modern European design and philosophy of fort construction. This along with the Japanese style ramparts creates a perfect analogy of how the Japanese blended their concepts of the modern and traditional.

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A nice break from the cold weather we had in Hakodate, the Hakodate Tropical Botanical Garden was a beautiful and pleasantly warm place to visit, as the garden and monkey enclosure were notably heated using geothermal sources. As an island nation, volcanic activity is prevalent in Japan, which is made evident in the hot springs which both the wildlife and people make use of. For example, we made use of the hot spring foot bath, which traces its beginnings over 400 years ago in a story of how the hot springs healing properties healed the child of a daimyo. It is fascinating to see how such natural forces contribute to Japanese culture in this way!   

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The Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples provided a fascinating look at the indigenous Ainu people of Hokkaido. Here I observed how the Ainu had developed several tools and practices well attributed to their northern climate and lifestyle. There were several depictions of the Ainu by the Japanese in this museum, such as they tapestries which depicted the twelve months of Ainu life in a year, and I noticed how many were depicted as very hairy. On this note I learned the Ainu were also called the “Hairy Ainu” as it was a characteristic which set them apart. While here I recalled that the Japanese over the centuries had been uprooting and pushing the Ainu further and further north. It is important to realize that the Japanese islands were and continue not to be homogeneous, and that different groups of people in different parts of the world and county can have many different ways of life.

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The first stop on our trip was the city of Hakodate, which is a port city on the northern island of Hokkaido. One of my favorite cities we visited, Hakodate has had a history of contact with the West due to its distance from the Shogunate government in Edo, in addition to its official “opening up” to the west after the arrival of Commodore Perry.  

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Hello!

During this 2017 D-Term at North Central College I have had the opportunity to travel to and explore Japan--and what an experience it has been! I have discovered that reading and studying about a place and culture can only impart so much information, while direct interaction can open up new avenues of questioning and understanding. In the following posts I seek to contemplate and reflect upon my experiences in Japan and connect them to Japan’s dual nature of traditional and modern.