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References
Admin | (n.d.). Teddy Boys. [online] Discover. Available at: https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/discover/2015/02/26/teddy-boys/#:~:text=Teddy%20Boys%20or%20.
Britannica (2019). grunge | Music & Bands. In: Encyclopædia Britannica. [online] Available at: https://www.britannica.com/art/grunge-music.
Fashion Journal. (2021). Caroline Reznik makes garments that align risk with possibility. [online] Available at: https://fashionjournal.com.au/fashion/caroline-reznik-subversize-garments/ [Accessed 26 Jun. 2022].
FEIAM, A. (2021). How to Rock Y2K Fashion in 2021. [online] The Trend Spotter. Available at: https://www.thetrendspotter.net/y2k-fashion/.
investopedia (2020). Trickle-Down Effect. [online] Investopedia. Available at: https://www.investopedia.com/terms/t/trickle-down-effect.asp.
Interview Magazine. (2019). All About Alexa Demie. [online] Available at: https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/alexa-demie-euphoria-waves-trey-edward-shult [Accessed 26 Jun. 2022].
Jaded London. (n.d.). Jaded LDN X Sydney Carlson. [online] Available at: https://jadedldn.com/pages/jaded-ldn-x-sydney-carlson.
Lookiero Blog. (n.d.). What is grunge style? [online] Available at: https://lookiero.co.uk/blog/what-is-grunge-style/.
Muggleton, D. (n.d.). Subcultures. [online] LoveToKnow. Available at: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/subcultures#:~:text=If%20fashion%20is%20cultural%20then
Nast, C. (2018). Say Yes to Nφdress—Designer Luqi Yu Is Our Latest Instagram Obsession. [online] Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/nodress-luqi-yu-90s-street-style
Raymond, M. (2019). Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. Laurence King Publishing.
Waite, M. (2012). Paperback Oxford English dictionary. 7th ed. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Wightman-Stone, D. (2019). Jaded London co-founder chats streetwear success. [online] FashionUnited. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/jaded-london-co-founder-chatsstreetwear-success/2019070244011.
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Evaluation
I am happy with what I have produced given the time I had to complete this module, I am aware that it could be significantly better but I am always open to improving and doing better which I am excited to do in the future.
I think my indesign skills are a lot stronger than my photoshop skills which is definitely a downfall of my lookbook, I do find it quite difficult to navigate but I know these things do take time and work. I’m glad I went with the trend I selected as it genuinely did interest me and I thoroughly enjoyed researching it and finding brands to explore it deeper.
In the future I hope I only improve and build on everything I have learned, apply myself to every opportunity I am given and continue to succeed.
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Alexa Demie
Alex Demie is a an American Actress, most well known for her role as Maddy Perez in Euphoria. I wanted to include her in my research as not only as Maddy but also her original image is very fitting to Grunge Romance - her style, aesthetic and makeup. I think she blends high fashion, classical and streetwear all into one which creates a completely personal look but so effortlessly.
In an interview with Ernesto Macias, Demie went into her childhood and how she became so invested in her fashion sense and why she’s so in love with it. She explained “I grew up in a house that was literally flooded with fashion magazines...I remember being a little girl, sitting on the floor, going through all the magazines, and just sketching out, trying to copy the gowns that were in there and making them my own“ (Macias, 2019) showing that her own personal style started blooming as a youngster.
Alexa Demie has done a lot of different shoots for magazines but I wanted to include some that complimented the grunge romance trend I have chosen.
(Interview Magazine, 2019)
(Office Magazine, 2019)
(Vogue, 2021)
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Final Composition
For my final composition I decided I wanted to stick with the original front page and proceed to incorporate the colour palette forecast in the Grunge Romance trend. Throughout my blog I have researched brands that inspired me through my journey which explains the use of the garments in my piece - including Jaded London, I am Gia and No Dress 67.
My material forecast was chosen through the research I did and what garments I saw that matched the trend, but also what I thought personally would compliment Grunge Romance Pieces.
I am happy with the final composition but I think with more Photoshop experience I would definitely have produced a better outcome - especially with regards to key tools on the software.
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Photoshop Composition
The main tools I used on photoshop were background fill, quick selection tool and text tool for my illustrations.
I used the background fill to decipher which colours and gradient I was going to select for my front and back pages, I found this tool really helpful as it allowed me to explore colours and different background effects which would best fit the composition of my lookbook.
Additionally, I used the quick selection tool to remove the background of the images I had found of garments, images and inspired makeup looks in order to transfer them to Indesign to place into my lookbook, Without this tool I believe my images would have looked too structured to collage or place.
Finally, I used the text tool to decipher which font was suitable for my look book as I had to use the same font throughout the whole piece or it would have looked odd and created a sense of discontinuity.
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What is grunge?
In order to fully understand the trend and each element of it I wanted to research what grunge actually was - not just in terms of fashion but it’s real origins. grunge, genre of rock music that flourished in the late 1980s and early ’90s and, secondarily, its attendant fashion. The term grunge was first used to describe the murky-guitar bands (most notably Nirvana and Pearl Jam) that emerged from Seattle in the late 1980s as a bridge between mainstream 1980s heavy metal–hard rock and postpunk alternative rock (Britannica, 2019). Proving that it’s origins predominantly came from music before the fashion came along to pair with it.
(Nirvana)
(Pearl Jam)
Onto grunge fashion, I found some do’s and don’t when it comes to basic grunge fashion:
DOs
Checked shirts
Torn trousers
Sleeveless shirts
Military boots
Bikers
Denim jackets
DON’Ts
Feminine looking clothes
Sparkles
Heels
Trench coats
Tailored garments
(lookiero, 2021)
The history behind grunge fashion is very interesting as it suggests a hint of rebellion from the younger and more woke generations at that time. Grunge fashion was developed by Generation X and is a reflection of their frustration with the side effects of the eighties economical upswing. This explains why grunge is mainly fashionable in first world countries. Many were beginning to see the effects of capitalism and didn't support it. They refused to believe in societal classes and were annoyed by the idea of human value being defined by money and property (Davis, 2014).
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No Dress 67
No Dress 67 is a brand I used for inspiration throughout my look book and in relation to my trend forecast. The brand was created by LuQi Yu who is a textiles graduate from Central Saint Martins, the inspiration for the brand she said was that there was always one item of clothing lacking from any girls wardrobe (Bobb, 2018). The brand consists of collections of renaissance influence, creating mini dresses and party wear, but there is no deeply complex messaging behind Nφdress other than to give her friends, and their friends, exactly what they feel they’ve been missing in their wardrobes (Bobb, 2018).
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Garment types
The garment types I am including in my look book are mainly under the party wear category, as they included midi/mini skirts, mini dresses and crop tops.
Mini Dress (I AM GIA, 2022)
Mini skirt and crop top, (Danielle Guizo, 2022)
Midi skirt, (Urban Outfitters, 2022)
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Front Page
For my title page I wanted to incorporate colours from the trends colour palette but without using a single block colour. I think due to the trend being relatively quirky and playing against the tide, I decided to play around with gradients and noise levels on photoshop to create my desired effect. It took me a while to come to a decision about my title page, as I had decided on my font but the colours were just not working. For a while I stook with the increased noise background but further into my research I realised the garment types I was going with did not match that aesthetic.
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Caroline Reznik
Caroline Reznik is known for being an unconventional designer, her pieces have been worn by people such as Doja Cat, Bella Thorne and Tkay Maidza. In conversation with Amy Focic, Caroline Reznik spoke about her background and how she began her label. I was formally a classical ballet dancer and I spent many of my years in admiration of my mother who was a costume maker and bead detailer. I was always sewing a pair of pointe shoes, making myself garments from old clothes or dancewear fabrics, and beading for therapeutic enjoyment (Focic, 2021).
Reznik described her brand as “Empowering, detail-oriented, handcrafted, streamlined and movement conscious” (Focic, 2021). Expressing that her brand stands for a lot and has a strong ethos.
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Jaded London
As part of my research I wanted to include the streetwear brand Jaded London. I deemed it relevant to the trend I have chosen as they create collections very similar to the trend forecast. Jaded London is a brand becoming increasingly popular among celebrities and influencers, with it’s collections also being stocked in high street stores like Urban Outfitters.
Founded in 2013 by sibling duo Jade and Grant Goulden, their innovative designs and cutting-edge trends have earned them an army of dedicated social media followers and a worldwide customer base as they are not “afraid to break boundaries” with their bold, unique and colourful prints that are seen across hoodies, joggers, crop tops, T-shirts, shorts, and dresses (Wightman-Stone, 2019). Which is exactly why i wanted to use this brand at the forefront of my lookbook as I believe their ethos is very matched to the trend.
The siblings started as fashion buyers, meaning that they were aware of demand in the industry when it came to starting up their own brand - aiming for their consumers to be between the ages of 18-35, both male and female. Which is a large audience with a broad range, especially with the inclusion of both genders.
Two collections I wanted to hone in one with regards to grunge romance were the Dusk Affair collection and the Jaded London x Sydney Carlson collection.
Jaded’s collection with Sydney Carlson - Inspired by the virtual world, the prints in the collection translate into all thing’s science lab. The drop includes thermal heatmap jeans and chemical inspired prints on some of Jaded’s iconic pieces. The pieces we have curated together feels authentic to Sydney's style and her love for bright vintage prints (Jaded London, 2021).
The other collection is the Dusk Affair Collection. This one is a little bit different to the Sydney Carlson collection but I still believe it fits and compliments the grunge romance trend. Feminine rebellion is the overall theme of the collection, which includes denim washes and flirtatious lace trims from the early 2000s...The collection features asymmetric silhouettes, playful mini skirts, and short-shorts inspired by western cultures, keeping with the brand’s bold silhouettes and prints (AlTauqi, 2022).
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colour palette
Bitter Lemon - Hex Color Code:#CAE00D
RGB Color Code:RGB(202, 224, 13)
Alpine Frost - Hex : #dfddd1
Rgb : rgb(223,221,209)
Italian clay - Hex : #d79979Rgb : rgb(215,153,121)
dark cherry
luscious red - Hex #e12121 rgb(225,33,33)
luminous pink - Hex : #fe019aRgb : rgb(254,1,154)
black
circular grey
violet light - Hex Code#7A5299
RGB Values(122, 82, 153)
midnight blue - HEX COLOR: #13294B;
RGB: (100,71,0,66)
Marine teal - Hex : #008384Rgb : rgb(0,131,132)
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Womenswear Forecast A/W 23/24: Creative Reset - Grunge Romance
The trend I have decided to go with for my lookbook is the grunge romance forecast within creative reset. The trend forecaster Sara Maggioni, described creative reset with - Creative Reset champions design ingenuity as a force for positive change, resulting in expressive styles made from deadstock materials and recycling, and thoughtful pieces rooted in innovation and versatility (Maggioni, 2022). Grunge Romance definitely communicates expressive styles, it is unconventional but still sexy.
The concept of Grunge Romance is tapping into the emotional rollercoaster and chaos collectively experienced in recent times, this story fuses emo, noir and grunge with romanticism. It builds on the success of the bodycon silhouettes, cutouts and skin-revealing styles (Maggioni, 2022). The key words of the trend being chaos, nior, subversive and sexy.
Within this trend I want to focus on garments within the party wear subsection, with silhouettes such as body-con dresses, midi skirts and co ords.
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Womenswear Forecast A/W 22/23: Awestruck
Awestruck is based upon incorporating digital and physical worlds to come together and create every-day and party wear. In the trend forecast it is explained - expect more experimental and extreme expressions of personal identity in this direction, taking in cyborg aesthetics and Surrealist styling, as well as a more prominent role for friendly tech, ranging from helpful robots and AI assistants to softer, more tactile devices that are engineered for understanding (www.wgsn.com, 2022).
This trend aims to redefine what we mean by everyday wear and allow us to put more effort into casual wear, reinventing it and embrace the digital world. Looking at the colour palette of this trend incorporates darker colours and more vibrant colours, I think the palette successfully communicates the aim of the trend as it brings physicality but with the bright colours shows the digital elements.
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