I'm the "transman" who apparently doesn't suffer under cis perpetuated transphobia along with being an evil "lg" who apparently doesn't suffer from homophobia
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We get it. You hate aces because you, a true lgbtâ˘, hate to share your spotlight and God forbid you share your precious resources. Do you need a reminder the full acronym is LGBTQIA? Itâs a fucking community and it caters to other orientations. That includes aces. Get over it.
You people act like nothing has gotten better for gays and are still at square one when society has given you representation, not even low-key representation, churches allow gay people, and itâs a fairly normal notion not to be bigoted towards your gay children anymore and to be accepting in general as most educated people understand itâs not a choice. For businesses thereâs more incentive. Hell, you even have the legal right to marry in America. The times have changed, okay?
Does it just.. threaten you aphobes somehow that there /may/ be a minority group in more dire need of help than you? That you wonât be everyoneâs favorite anymore? You do realize gays outnumber aces 10 fold and make up the largest percent of the community. Between bisexuals, asexuals and trans people, youâre actually the most âprivilegedâ out of the bunch by your sheer numbers and awareness. You should be using your power to lend a voice to your ace brothers and sistersâ queer or otherwise. ACES ARE ACE. First and foremost. Not cishet.
There are ace kids out there feeling broken; alienated having nowhere to turn not knowing what they are or where they belong and then you spew some crap like this. They are seeing this. It is hurtful. They do not need this. No one needs this. They need support, dammit. And so, so much of it.
If you would allow in straight transmen for example, they are men first trans second, no? Or is this also transphobia at work which treats a trans individual differently from biological men or women? Iâm sure any given trans person would want to be seen as a man/woman rather than be excluded by the trans label. Your logic doesnât hold up. Cis pansexuals or bisexuals experience hetero-romantic feelings and can even stay in a straight relationship the rest of their lives. Are they then, excluded? Are we just going to ignore that aspect of them now in favor of your baseless rhetoric? *Banging pots and pans* đŤIF YOU WOULDNâT DO IT TO THEM, DONâT DO IT TO ACES.đŤ Period.
You just want soo badly to be oppressed so you can stay the most sympathetic and play the victim card at every turn when people donât coddle you. Itâs pathetic how entitled and spoiled you people are. âCishetâ aces canât oppress you. Neither can they invade your community and destroy it because well, itâs their community, too. Thereâs not even enough of them out there to do something so drastic.
Youâre a majority over them. If anything, youâre the ones oppressing THEM with this continuous trend of gatekeeping, erasure, and hatred. Itâs all so hypocritical because y'all literally flip shit when a straight person does it to you. But, I guess -phobes will keep reusing the same worn material. âťđ *cough* recycled biphobia *cough* The oppression olympics and mental gymnastics needs to stop. Itâs such a disturbed and warped way to validate your views.
But, you wonât.
So, you continue making up bullshit quotas and an imaginary standard of gayness to excuse your abhorrent behavior while simultaneously splitting apart the community you claim youâre trying to protect so dearly by making enemies out of air, so much so that it makes no difference whether one is in it or not as theyâll still face many of the same problems within a supposed âsafe spaceâ. Not realizing that cishets arenât the toxic ones. Itâs all of YOU. đđđ Good job! Seriously canât believe weâre still having this conversation.
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Menâs hairstyles, ca. 1830
Massive post today, as usual for my fashion posts.
Talking about menâs hair is funny, because when I just line up a bunch of portraits of guys from this period, it inevitably becomes a bit of a collection of hot period pin-ups. Â Who says women donât objectify men, I guess.
In my post on ladiesâ hats, I said that hats are designed to suit hair. Â Now, the more I think about it, the more this only seems to apply to ladies, whose hairstyles and hat styles are in fairly frequent flux. Â For gentlemen, whose hairstyles and hat styles change more slowly over time, it seems that it may be the hair that must suit itself to the hat and not vice versa. Â Chicken or egg question.
Now menâs hats ca. 1830 were of two basic varieties: the brimmed cap (for working-class men, young boys, and occasionally hunting/riding), and the top hat (for pretty much all well-dressed guys).  Just as with women, there was other âshit men could put on their heads,â but these were the two basic hats, as in, âshit men could wear outdoors and not look weird.â
^^^Riding cap ca. 1830.
^^^Top hat, ca. 1830.
Letâs ignore the cap for the moment, because weâre talking about fashion, and the cap sadly has little place in fashion ca. 1830. Â The top hat was what fashionable men had to contend with, and it was what they had to suit their hair to.
Men had basically two strategies for getting their hair and their hats to work together.  The first strategy I will call âvertical,â the second, âhorizontal.â  The vertical solution is to pile all your hair on top of your head, or else comb it in that direction for us sad straight-haired people (who were surely resigned in this period to being plain).  This allowed for the hair to mostly sit beneath the hat.  The horizontal solution was to pile/comb the hair to the sides of the head, leaving the top of the head pretty much smooth.  This allowed for the hair to sit outside the hat (or rather, for the hat to kind of sit on the piles of hair).  Both of these methods worked, since neither allowed the hat to crush the hair.  And when a dandy takes so long to get his hair just so, nothing is worse than getting hat hair.
^^^The vertical solution.
^^^The horizontal solution.
Just like their female counterparts, fashionable men were meticulous with their hair. Â They used many of the same products and methods of grooming that the ladies did, including pomade for smoothing and holding the hair in place and curling tongs, papers, and cloths for curling it. Â The hair could be parted pretty much anywhere, though in the earlier years of this period (ca. 1825-1827) they were still favoring the no-part, Napoleonic-type combed-forward or piled-on-top styles, while throughout the rest of the period (ca. 1827-1835) most men favored a side part. Â Side parts could even be extreme, as in, just over one ear. Â The hair was often brushed forward over the temples, but expansive, unblemished foreheads were thought to be a mark of masculine beauty, and so the hair was usually brushed up and away from the forehead to leave it bare. Â In describing Enjolrasâ beauty in Les MisĂŠrables, Victor Hugo wrote appreciatively:
âMuch forehead in a face is like much sky in a horizon.â
(He may have been a little biased.)
Curls and waves were all the rage throughout the 1820s and 1830s, and these guys had them in abundance (or made sure they obtained them in abundance). Â Really, thatâs all you need to know about menâs hair ca. 1830: curls, curls, CURLS. Â Itâs all about the curls.
^^^Gotta say, this guyâs got nice hair, but he looks like a total douchebro. Â One day Iâll post the whole painting, and then maybe youâll see what I mean (body language speaks volumes), but really, if this guy was standing at the other end of the bar, giving you this look, Iâll bet you wouldnât give him your number, would you.
^^^Even Louis-Philippe is stylinâ.
^^^Ohhh, I dunno, Charles X is pushing it a little.  Those curls arenât too curlyâŚwalking on the edge of uncool.
Because letâs face it, anybody born with stick-straight, uncurlable hair was simply screwed and should have just sat out the 1820s-1830s, because they were never going to be hot and popular. Â However, they did try to make do with some sad, sore-loser comb-overs.
Or they could try to coax it to flip upâŚ
âŚor forwardâŚ
âŚor backâŚ
âŚorâŚwhatever the hell this is:
(Also, extra points for extra skeezy facial hair on that last one.)
Sometimes they just gave up and cropped their hair:
^^^I assume this is Blanquiâs âprison chicâ look, ca. 1835.
Textured hair also makes for great 1820s-1830s hair.  Itâs all about the shaping: you can rock it upâŚ
âŚor downâŚ
âŚor Dumas, which is always the sexy choice:
In a society that values huge piles of luscious curls, the bald or balding probably had an even rougher time of it than the straight-haired guys.  Victor Hugo implicitly acknowledges how unfortunate male baldness is: being bald at twenty-five comes first in a litany of unlucky things in Laigleâs life.  Unlike for ladies, there werenât too many opportunities for guys to cover their hair constantly with caps and kerchiefs, so a few false curls tied on in front werenât going to go very far for them.  Of course, being that high foreheads were cool, a balding guy could always live in denial for a few years, but eventually fate would catch up to him.  Now, he could age gracefully, as Iâm sure many didâŚ
âŚbut there were of course full and partial wigs available too for menâs use.  I havenât yet found an extant example of such a thing, but if I ever come across one, Iâll be sure to share.  I canât begin to imagine how they would have held these wigs securely on their heads, but there you have it.
Unlike the ladies, of course, men also had facial hair to contend with.  Facial hair was extremely popular ca. 1825-1835, even more so than in earlier decades.  Of course typical sideburns, mutton chops, and mustaches were common, but the most striking and unusual style of facial hair of this period is what I can only call the âunder-the-chin beard.â  I have no idea if there is a more concise name for this odd thing, but I just call it like I see it.  This beard sits, well, under the chin and extends along the jawline, all the way up to the hairline.  Like so:
Sometimes, for the extra ick factor, it can be paired with a mustache, thusly:
This beard is extremely (extremely!) common in fashion plates ca. 1830. Â It is less common in portraits of the period, but by no means absent. Â Yes, guys did have these proto-Abe-Lincoln beards, and they rocked them, I must say.
^^^Work it, Champollion! Â He cracked the Rosetta Stone code with the sheer force of his bushy whiskers!
As anyone who has had elaborate facial hair knows, it requires a good deal of maintenance: not only cleaning and grooming the hair itself, but shaping it and shaving the areas around it. Â Just as there were professional hairdressers for ladies, there were professional barbers for gentlemen. Â (And no, they didnât all slit your throat and make you into meat pies.)
Iâm sure gentlemen who could afford it either visited âtonsorial parlorsâ or else had barbers come to their homes, but seeing as stubble is constantly requiring attention, I think lots of men dealt with their whiskers themselves, to the best of their ability.  With straight razors, of course.  What could go wrong?
The result is some pretty fantastic facial hair.
The artist Franz Xaver Winterhalterâs self-portraits from this period show a perfect progression from 1820s to 1830s facial hair:
^^^Young Winterhalter in the mid-1820s. Â Abundant curls, no facial hair.
^^^Not-quite-as-young Winterhalter ca. 1830. Â Abundant curls, side-whiskers, and the beginnings of a little mustache.
^^^Mid-1830s Winterhalter. Â Abundant curls (seeing a pattern here?), and full-blown under-the-chin beard with thick mustache.
And among all these perfect little Beau Brummell types who pet and cherish and maintain their hair daily, there are a number of 1830s guys who plainly donât give a shit. Â To those guys: cheers, itâs all good.
Of course, in the Romantic period just as in todayâs bedhead fashion, itâs hard to tell if guys just donât give a shit about their hair, or if they are taking, like, an absurd amount of time and effort to make it look like they donât give a shit.  HmmmâŚ
Among guys not giving a shit, I should also file the long-haired dudes. Â Long hair, i.e., hair down to your shoulders, no matter what youâve been told by a million Les Mis fanarts (including my own past stuff), is not a thing in this period. Â Repeat: long hair on men is not a thing. Â It is the kind of hair worn by a few eccentrics, but it is by no means a thing.
^^^Audobon. Â An eccentric.
^^^Paganini.  An eccentric.  (It suffices to say âartist,â right?)
^^^Liszt. Â Artist.
No matter what the Japanese want you to think, Enjolras, that stern, severe âsoldier of democracyâ and âpriest of the ideal,â would not have had a gorgeous, flowing waist-length pony. Â
Sorry, itâs just not true. Â Itâs a little white lie, like the Tooth Fairy: harmless in the moment, but creates an atmosphere of distrust for the long run. Â Consider this my PSA for the fandom: stop the long-hair madness!
Long hair looks strange and bohemian, but the award for absolute weirdest male hair I have come across in this period (aside from runner-up âprison chicâ Blanqui) goes to famous caricaturist HonorĂŠ Daumier in a ca. 1829 portrait:
âŚUm, okay.  A straight-haired comb-over.  A kinda under-the-chin-beard.  But with, like, totally shameless panache.  Like, âWhat, so my hair is straight?  Fuck it, I will rock this straight hair!  I will draw further attention to it with this over-the-top flip and uncomfortably long length!  I will also make my under-the-chin beard as off-putting as possible!  I will confuse you by growing out the goatee part of it but refuse to style it sensibly!  I also will not pair it with a mustache, that is too mainstream!â  I love his confidence, but then, I guess if youâre going to spend your life mooning the government without fear of repercussions and generally being the South Park of the mid-19th century, why worry about âfashionableâ peopleâs dumb opinions?  Instead, you should go draw a caricature of fashionable peopleâs dumb fashions.
After shaming movie hair design last time, I feel like I ought to go out on a positive note:
^^^Yeah, I like. Â And itâs funny, too, because thereâs a montage in which Pip is transforming from poor kid to fashionable gentleman, and he does suddenly go from straight-haired bedhead to 1830s dandy curls, which I really thought rang true to (1830s) life. Â Sadly, the ladiesâ hair didnât live up to the example set by the gentlemen. Â BBC Great Expectations (2011).
^^^His hairâs okay, but itâs really his overall look thatâs so perfect. Â His features are really sensual, and he has that strange 1830s dandy je-ne-sais-quoi. Â To me, this is Courfeyrac, right here. Â Une vieille maĂŽtresse (2007).
^^^Slightly later period, but still pretty admirable hair design. Â The Young Victoria (2009).
^^^For those of you who have spent the last two years bitching about this wig, I have a message for you, straight from the 1830s: Stop.  Just stop.  Youâre wrong, and youâre making a fool of yourself.  Itâs glorious.  Itâs full of curls.  Itâs side-parted.  It doesnât have a ponytail.  Itâs BLOND.  Itâs everything that historically-accurate Enjolras hair ought to be but never has been in a movie version before.  Itâs probably the best thing in this movie, and thatâs saying a lot.  The first time I saw a photo of Tveit in this wig, thatâs the moment I knew they were serious about this adaptation.  Musical!Enjolras has come a long way from the 1980s fro with rat-tail look:
(Itâs okay, I still love the hell out of your Enjolras, Anthony Warlow!)
Mariusâ hair design in the 2012 Les Mis movie is also goodâsuitably goofy, but still totally period:
^^^Horizontal and vertical hair strategies, you see?
I approve.  Now if you boys could just convince Fantine and Cosette to put their hair upâŚ
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