caminaconcarmen-blog - Tumblr blog

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

They say...

some people come into your life for a reason, a season or a lifetime. Not sure who to credit, but its author captured something so meaningful when it comes to the relationships in our lives.

On Tuesday, May 28th, at approximately 17:00 European time, this Cuban-American abuela arrived to “Santiago de Compostela” carrying only a small yellow sports-bag containing a rain jacket, a passport, a few vitamin C packs, a tin travel mug, some band-aids, a small coin purse and my cell phone.

Tightly gripped to my right hand was a makeshift walking stick that Scottish Jamie made me out of a tree branch earlier that day. I should also note that reaching Santiago meant that at some point I had arrived at “Monte del Gozo”. This is where hikers gets their first glimpse of the cathedral and was the moment where I screamed YES and pumped my fist in the air similar to the way it’s done at EDM music festivals.

Meanwhile however, what I didn't think of at that moment was that in order to actually reach the cathedral (and the “camino office” where I was to receive the “compostela certificate” I’d first have to make it down this monstrous hill and hike several kilometers more…. It took me another 2 hours from this point.

Mainly because the day before, I noticed some swelling on my right foot and unbeknownst to me, I had suffered some kind of injury, a stress fracture of sorts. Nonetheless, according to my plan, I had only 41 kilometers to reach my end goal and already had reserved a Hotel near the cathedral to celebrate my victory in my own private bathroom with a blow dryer.

The thought of completion made me so happy that I was not about to allow a little swollen foot issue to stand in my way. For this reason, I decided to lighten my load and shipped my backpack along with all of my belongings to the Hotel that morning. This way, I would give my foot a rest from any excess weight and assure a swift arrival.

What I didn't know was that 10K into my last day of walking the idea of chopping my foot off with a Swiss Army knife would cross my mind as a good solution to my foot problem. Luckily I had shipped off the knife and will be forever grateful for my pal Jamie, who not only patiently listened to my complaints, but also offered me many reasons why I should keep both of my feet. Moreover he frequently (and silently) extended his arm offering me a balanced support. Jamie also didn't shame me, my silent tears, nor the foot-butcher thoughts that preoccupied my mind.

By this time, I had become proficient in Scottish English and being one of the few people on the Camino that was, I daydreamed that perhaps I would also receive some kind of “Camino Interpreter” award along with the official “Compostela Certificate” that one gets when reaching the cathedral down below.

For those of you not familiar with this pilgrimage, the way it works is that in order to be awarded the “Compostela Certificate” one must walk at least 100 kilometers on one of the “The Ways of Saint James” routes. The Santiago Cathedral is your your finish line and upon arrival you must show proof which are “stamps” on a Camino Passport that hikers obtain by visiting camino sites such as churches, hostels, some restaurants, giftshops, etc.

There are several camino routes to choose from, but the “Camino Frances” also known as “The French Way” was the most popular and the one I had chosen. This route is advertised as a total of 799 kilometers (as the crow flies). But, there are mountains and you are bound to walk the wrong way at some point (in my case several miles), therefore you end up doing much more than what’s endorsed on your certificate. This is something I’d like to touch upon and frankly one of the reasons I held off from writing on this blog until today 🤬

As I approached the last week of my camino, I entered the town of Sarria. Approximately 112 kilometers from Santiago, this mid-sized city offers a variety of transport options and lends as a perfect starting point for pilgrims wishing to hike 100 kilometers, which is the minimum required to obtain the “Compostela Certification”. I hated Sarria!!!! Mostly because I felt it really discredited my achievement and that of the many others whom had started their hike back in France. In other words, it meant that hikers starting in Sarria would earn the same Compostela certification that I was getting. Really folks!!!!🧐😝

Boy, did it piss me off to see so many smiley, chirpy, photo-taking backpackers lining the Camino path with their polished outfits and nice clean hair. Not to mention the fact that now the route was crowded and me and my club-foot would have to hop out of the way for the Mr. Cleans & Speedy Gonzaleses whom had no idea what it really felt like to have trekked 700 kilometers before they came along. Ohh and if that wasn't bad enough, the remaining route would leave little poor me with no peaceful nature to enjoy or cows and flowers to talk privately to. This was awful and not what I had expected my victorious welcome to Santiago would be like.

It was not until I reached Santiago that it finally all made sense….. my Camino was finished and that's what I really hated.

From the bottom of my heart I would like to extend a warm THANK YOU to my Camino Fam: Scottish madman, Luba & Sofia, Rebecca, Ole, and Max. Also to Esra, Elin, Michelle, Sergio, Caresse, Michelle, Alan, Jana, Tania, Bobbie & Mike, Eugenio, Agustin, Ramon, Miguel, Jorge y Jose Antonio, Road Runner, the Aussie sisters, the Irish violinist, and all of the other wonderful people whom I never learned their name......THANK YOU for getting in “My Way”. A special thanks to my very own “Saint Jamie” for sticking by my side and not letting me take a taxi on my last day and THANK YOU all for having an open heart and offering me your genuine friendship. Most of all.... THANK YOU for accepting this crazy Cuban Lady to chat your ear off and in some cases even boss you around.

Thanks to all for sharing in a good laugh and also some tears. THANK YOU for the impromptu picnics, for the “almost there” beer stops and for the delicious tapas & pinchos gatherings. Thank you to those who shared your supplies (especially that awesome german foot cream and the Spanish ‘no manchas” sunscreen). And THANK YOU all for the wonderful moments and memories that affirm that kindness and unconditional friendship does exist in this often confusing and unpleasant world.

I want to also thank all of my DUTCHIES, Desi the family priest, and my wonderful family for their unconditional love & support.

They say some people come into your life for a reason, a season or a lifetime.

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

Am I there yet???

After several days of walking long stretches of paved roads, I finally reached Cruz Ferró. Here stands a tall wooden pole topped off with an iron cross believed to be an ancient monument possibly erected by the celts. The tradition at this point is to drop off a stone that one either brings from home, or picks up along your Camino. This stone is to represent a burden that you are now leaving behind allowing you, the pilgrim, to lighten your load for the journey ahead.

According to my guidebook, this was to be the highest point of the Camino. However, I continued onto new paths, and 50+ kilometers later, after passing beautiful rose bushes and blossoming cherry trees, I faced yet another steep hill leading to La Faba. It was tough but worth it... the amazing views of green pastures and the misty mountains of Galicia welcomed me home!

I cannot lie.... the last several days have been somewhat emotional. There’s a unique feeling one gets after spending long days walking in nature and talking to trees, cows, and the occasional butterfly. It makes one think a lot and sometimes of nothing too. Once in while, I plug in my headphones and turn on my tunes for some inspiration. I even FaceTimed my daughters and grandchild, which later made me cry uncontrollably for no reason.

Last night I entered the last region of my journey called Galicia. My body somehow seemed to recognize this land as it is quite possible that my ancestors may have walked the very same paths im walking into now.

I stayed at the largest Albergue I’ve been to so far. With well over 60+ guests spread into 3 rooms, I was surprised of how well the place was managed. But after meeting our hospitalera, Angela, it became clear that this amazing Gallega had something to do with it. She was not only a great chef, but also a lively social director who runs the place with as much love as she does laughter.

Our community meal served Germans, Italians, a few Americans, a polish couple, some Spaniards, one very tall Irishman and of course me (the Cuban from Florida) and my Scotish camino-brother you already know as Jamie. Also in the crowd was another Cuban-American from Hialeah, Florida 😬 Upon learning of this...Angela, who layer dicikhed that she was divorced from a Cuban man, topped off our meals by performing the Galician Ritual called “queimada”. It consist of pouring a gallon of brandy along with several coffee into a flaming pan all while conjuring up witches and demons in efforts to chase away all bad spirits.

Afterwards, Angela pumped up the Cuban salsa music and for just a moment, we all seemed to forget about our aches & blisters as we spent the following hour dancing until we could move no more. The morning came soon after and now the reality is sinking in.... I am now on 150km away from Santiago and in a few days my Camino will be over.

Overcome with emotion, I am also feeling that the achievement is not just to reach Santiago nor is to walk the 800 kilometers. The goal is to also expose a new beginning in my life. One that offers me a chance to refresh my thoughts and continue my trek to new places with a renewed sense of pride, perspective and purpose.

Tonight it is raining and I have decided to stop and rest in the small village of San Mamede which sits a few kilometers short of Sarria, a major staring point for those wishing to do the minimum 100k required to receive the Compostela. By this time tomorrow, I will be on only a few days away from santiago and less than 100 kilometers to go.

Nevertheless, the 700 kilometers that got me here will not be forgotten. I will specially remember what I dropped off at the cross in Ferró and along the cherry trees, the bushels of roses and the lonely wishing tree..... back where I left behind my silly insecurities, any hidden angers, doubts and conditioned expectations. Instead I now carry on with me new goals and dreams... Not just for me, but also for those whom I have encountered throughout this journey. May they too feel the renewed sense of happiness, gratitude, humility and unconditional love they have provided me along “the way”

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

El Tesin...

Is the name of my Albergue tonight. It accommodates 36 people (12 in each room) all bunks laid closely together. It’s a packed house and the snoring is coming from all directions like an orchestra of snorting pigs. The peregrino life has now settled in reminding me that in order to reach goals in life, there are elements of discomfort and even misery.

I’ve been back on foot for 2 days now and although we have covered some good ground, my partner in crime,Jamie and I have both managed to earn several new Camino scars (blisters). Today I have decided to cut down my trek from 40k to about 17k in hopes to give my feet and back a rest.

The past few miles were flat but difficult. Tough in the sense that the scenery was dull and in many cases dreadful. It was hot and lonely...everyone pretty much spread out and I was alone for many hours, often plugging in my ear phones to listen to some salsa music to keep me inspired. I’ve talked to butterflies, birds, some snails, and a few horses and cows. They make great listeners to those of us on the Camino.

Meet Ramon, a 78 year old man i ran into during high noon. I asked him if he wasn’t tired and hit and he responded, “joven, el que quiere algo, lo hace” (young one... when you want something done, you do it).

This phrase stuck with me all day and I referred to it many times later on specially as I walked though the rocky route to my resting town of Rabanal del Camino.

With less than 250 kilometers to go from here, i will now sip my cafecito & reflect on all I have accomplished and once agaian ask myself for the millionth time....what the hell inspired me to come here??? The answer is becoming clearer with each step...

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

From Peregrino to Bicigrino😛🚲

So yesterday I turned in my backpack for saddlebags and decided that I would cycle from Burgos to Leon (180 kilometers) in 3 days to allow my body some healing time.

Unfortunately this has caused our Camino family to spread out, with the exception of the mad Scottish man(Jamie) whose almost as insane as I am and decided to join me.

Jamie and I have now completed day 2 of our cycle goals (approx 120 kilometers) and we decided to take a rest tonight in the town of Sahagún. It is not as picturesque as some of the other towns I’ve crossed. Yet it is said that at one time, this city thrived under the rule of King Alfonso VI who was educated here among its diverse population that also included Muslims and Jews. Evidence of such can be seen spread out across the village with remains of Romanesque-Mudéjar architecture that incorporates Islamic motifs among & neoclassic structures.

As for me, the spirit of the Camino continues to grow stronger each day. Besides the achievement of reaching my half way point of 400 kilometers in 14 days, I am happy to share that I have also....

Pet a horse that just happened to roam the neighborhood, I’ve held lengthy conversations using a translator App, I’ve washed my laundry by hand & outdoors, I’ve become a master packer, I’ve worn the same clothes at least 3 days in row, I have gone days without any makeup (not even mascara), I’ve met amazing people whose energy and spirit continues to amaze me, I have slept on top bunks and also on floors, I have endulged in amazing food & wine with less than 5$, I’ve had unlimited dinners with strangers and have even participated in prayer in an attic of a 400 year old church with Franciscan priests 🧐😱 I know right !!!!

All this and much more and though I am excited to announce that I’ve reached half of of my Camino goals, I am also saddened by the fact that I am half way finished.

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

Roncesvalles ~> Pamplona

I’m now on day 3 of my Camino and have met few Americans, (mostly female by the way). Neverless, there is no shortage of peregrinos. I learned that each year, approximately 60k people of all ages, sizes and religious backgrounds walk the Camino from around the globe. So far I haven’t met another 🇨🇺 Cuban tho 🤪

My Camino buddies so far are 2 American girls(Kelly from Nashville & Caresse from N.Hampshire) and 1 mad Scotsman named Jamie which talks a lot, but keeps us all laughing with his accent we barely understand.

The views have been spectacular but the hike has been tougher than I anticipated. Yesterday Jamie and I were so pumped up that we continued on to complete 2 stages(50K). I do not recommend anyone try this! Apparently, a Scot and a Cuban may not be a good mix 🤪

It’s hard to express how beautiful this region is. From valleys to Forrest, the visuals are as stunning as the food and people who live here. It also lends one time to absorb nature at its finest with many babies and plants blooming this spring season.

Temperatures have been in the teens and in some cases even below. Yet, the fresh crisp air and inspiring scenery pushes us to continue forward, as does the idea of reaching our next destination to indulge in the local chorizo, cheese & wine.

Today, I am in Pamplona. Best known for their “Fiesta de San Martin” which runs every summer in July and is when they release 6 bulls to run a course from the city center to the downtown plaza. There are no bulls here now, but the town is still lively filled with restaurants, bars, and plenty of shopping options.

I’m staying in an albergue near the ancient Cathedral which dates back to 1st century. This area was previously ruled by Muslims until 718 when Charlemagne was said to have destroyed the city walls in 778. By 799 the local basques had taken over and maintain strong until today.

The area is rich in culture and today I will give my knees and feet a chance to recover while I explore their fine gothic architecture and of course have some cerveza & pinchos!

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

Go ahead, talk to strangers...

I departed Amsterdam yesterday morning and regardless of train stikes and construction , I managed to take 4 trains, 2 metro rides, and find my hotel thanks to the help of people I may never see again.

I arrived in Lourdes around 9PM, My trip here was short but full of energy. This is a major destination for faithful Christians and there was no shortage of picturesque landmarks & souvenir shops.

Most establishments were closed by the time I arrived except for a small pizzeria where I submissed to carbload on pizza and wine 🍕 🍷 Here I met a new friend from Barcelona and as we chatted and exchanged Social media contacts, we even shared our pizza and it dawned on me how seldom these random acts of friendship happened to me back home. Perhaps one of the many aspects of this pilgrimage I find so fascinating.

I’m back on the train again and by this afternoon aim to reach St Jean Pied de Port where I I will take one final rest before setting off on foot 👣

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

So I decided to get some rest In Amsterdam before my trek. Really, what was I thinking 🤔 it’s Kingsday today and the city is in full bloom. Great music and amazing friendships ❤️🇳🇱🎉

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

So it begins....

This morning I asked myself when/where is the official moment this pilgrimage is supposed to begin? Perhaps, the most reasonable answer should be “the moment you arrive at your first walking stage”, which in my case will be St Jean, France.

However, as the reality sets in that I am actually heading towards that destination, I am overcome with emotion and decided to begin documenting my travels from this point onward. I should mention that it entails driving from Florida to New York, where I will take my flight to Europe. However, it’s not just any drive...It’s something more personal and consists of approximately 20 hours in a small car with my senior companions (my mom and her husband) and a very cute little chihuahua named Lucky.

The seniors will drive during daytime and my chauffeur duties kick in at night since they can’t see well in the dark 🤦🏽‍♀️

So for now, I rest in the backseat, plan my train details, type this blog, and smile 😃

Trip is planned as follows:

🚙 West Palm Beach -> New York

✈️ New York -> Amsterdam

🚆 Amsterdam -> Paris

🚉 Paris -> Lourdes

🚆 Lourdes -> St. Jean Pied de Port

🚶🏽‍♀️St. Jean Pied de Port -> Santiago

*Goal is to complete the trip in 45 days or less

Day 1: April 22, 2018

[caminaconcarmen-blog]

Come with me on an 800 kilometer journey from St Jean Pied-de-Port (France) to Santiago de Compostela (Spain)...

This blog will share my daily experiences, local people, food, and unique sights of this ancient pilgrimage. Besides the goal of completing the trek safely, I aim to also encourage others to explore the world around us and perhaps starting a new project or accomplishing something never imagined possible.

🏠 ✈️ 🚉🎒🚶🏽‍♀️👣🙏🏽📍📓