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How To install Ductless AC & Heating System

what's up guys and welcome back to the workshop so anybody knows that if you work in a garage or some kind of building or whatever it gets pretty hot in there and depending on where you went it does get pretty cold and I did wanted to do this for a very long time it just hadn't got around to it I was actually looking and researching which system should I go with but one of the big thing is I wanted to go with a system that I could do completely different start to finish on my own so before I committed to this system I did a ton of research and this was the only system that I was able to find that I can do from start to finish without bringing in an HVAC guy the system I'm installing is by mr. cool and I'll link the model that I'm using for my garage I reached out to them the first quarter of this year they got back to me and it got me a unit and they're today's sponsor so big thank you to them for that so this is their DIY kit I have the 12,000 BTU one so I'll link that down in the video description basically this one comes pre-charged already the only thing you're gonna need is an electrician if you're not comfortable with that part of it but I'm gonna go through the entire installation and you see how I did and maybe can help you you'll get the concept once I'm done there's so much to do let's get to work let me show you how I did it oh by the way row the intro [Music] once I settled on a location for the indoor unit I then need to find a location for the outdoor unit our main goal was to get it over here under existing air conditioner pad the condenser is not too heavy so if you need to mount it on a wall that shouldn't be an issue the unit for the indoors is really light but the harness on it does make it a challenge to handle this unit does come with a mounting template but I believe I must have threw it away or something not sure what happened to it so I'm gonna have to install mine the hard way to get this unit installed the first thing I need to do is hold it up to the wall and trace it so I haven't I be on alert to mounting now I really wanted to Center this over the door and it was driving me crazy that I couldn't you do have to respect the drain line and in this case the drain line need to go straight outside and down so the way I plan to install this is the drain line is gonna go straight outside and the harness is gonna go up over and down so one of the main reason for sending the harness up into the attic is one I didn't want to have all this harness outside coiled up you have to leave it that way you cannot cut it the other reason my house is CB s construction and this is a solid poured wall right here I do not have the tools nor do I want to hire someone to come in and do the three-and-a-half inch hole after cutting out the drywall have then cut out the framing strips so I can then get to the Attic so anytime you need to drill a concrete want to start off using a smaller masonry bit first then increase the size if I was drilling from outside to inside that kind of goes away it's mainly went a bit exit the concrete when the blowout occurs so now that I know where my hole is I can now draw from the outside back to the inside if you have a wood friend and it should be simple to drill through however if you have a solid poured wall you'll want to drill with a hammer feature on it a little tape up drain line and then push that through the hole that I just drilled the next thing I did was install the bracket and unfortunately I didn't line up with any stud and with the unit being so light I was able to install a cup of walling kurz and mount it that way if you're researching units and you want to do it yourself just think about this 25 foot hose does need to go somewhere as I said before mine is gonna pass through the attic so some of that is gonna be left up there and the harness you have the two copper lines and you also have the electrical wire I'll take the ends and then I pushed it up to the attic tonight it's easy you'll need somebody in the attic that's pulling and also somebody's pushing from below within the harness you have the two copper line going to the condenser and also the electrical wire it's really important to keep by on the entire harness and do not put any sharp bends in it after feeding the entire harness up I'm going to rest the unit on the bracket and then connect the drain line. I'm out at my bracket a little higher than it should have been so I came back later and fixed it and now I can address the outdoor unit the first thing I did was drilled up through the soffit and the location I pick I made sure that I had clearance going from the soffit all the way down and with the hole being fully cut out now I need to push up a pull wire or cable so I can then tie it onto the harness and pull it back down and doing something like this you definitely gonna need extra hand I ended up doing this on my own so I was exhausted from the minute trips to the Attic just to pull a couple of inches at a time as a way to hide the harness that's coming down about a separate cover kit from Amazon and this came with a bunch of pieces I just used what I needed the kid actually worked out great help me hide the area where I cut through the Safi plus the debris clean and look rather than to have the harness just coming down and seeing straps I drew it my own holes in a cover kit I thought this made things a little easier [Music] all throughout this installation I kept dropping the screws and then I remembered I had this magnetic tilt for the screws these things are super handy and I used it where I could. so this part is pretty much done I'm gonna put the cover kit on and close that up and now the next thing is I'm gonna jump over to the condenser beside lining it to the pattern the only thing I have to do is now hook up the electrical and also tie in the refrigerant lines but a cleanness hookup you want to use some kind of liquid tight it's flexible and it's easy to maneuver and route wherever you need it to go now you'll need to remove the two knockouts that's in the cover the unit I have runs off 120 volts and it's recommended to have its own breaker whether it's 15 amps or 20 amps the liquid tight conduit it's great for what it's used for but it's really tough to push wire through so it's easier if you use a fish tape or just stretch it out as straight as you can and then you can possibly push the wire through the kit comes with two screw on connectors I'm gonna put the 91 at the unit and the other one I'm gonna leave off since this is a temporary connection a while back I added a sub panel in the garage which was also sized for this unit at a later point I run wires from the sub panel to this unit but luckily I do have some local power here that's used for my sprinkler system which I absolutely don't use this is good enough to get my unit up and running so I no longer have to be sweating in the heat the power cord that comes with the unit already have a connector on it and I don't want to leave this big hole just there so I'm gonna use a push on connector as a way to feel this and then I'll come back with some silicone or some kind of sealant to close that up after stripping all the wires I then crimp down Spade terminals and now I'm ready to connect to the unit now it doesn't matter which order you choose to go I first connected the ground wire for the indoor unit then I just connect the connectors and this part is done at this moment the unit is not plugged into any circuit since this unit is 120 volts I need to connect the green wire to the ground next I'll connect the black wire to the line and last but not least I'll connect the white wire to the Nutri terminal  I would recommend anchoring down the unit first before connecting a refrigerant line but for the purpose of this tutorial I just want to make sure that I'm getting a good view for you guys now it's also important that you leave the caps on until you're ready to connect these lines they are color-coded and you'll know exactly which one needs to go where to avoid stripping the thread I do recommend that you tighten these on by hand first and you should be able to get around 50% or more of it on before using a tool but a final tightening I'm gonna recommend using a wrench or a couple wrench or a couple adjustable wrench but never use a pair of pliers on the end that turn this is self material and you can ease this strip it so I'm now going to anchor your unit down and I'm gonna use these rubber feets that came with the unit the drill four holes in the slab and then I installed tap cons to hold a unit down so I need to make one more trip to the Attic and I'm going to use these PVC clamps to lift the harness off of the insulation before firing this up I got one more thing to do and that's opening up the lines the system already come pre charged so all you have to do is loosen up your caps turn the valve all the way counterclockwise until it stops now put the caps back on and then get some soapy water spray it on all the connection just to make sure you don't have any leaks and a good indication that you have leaks is you'll see bubbles showing up once you've opened up the refrigerant valve you cannot loosen the lines again otherwise you're gonna have to have an HVAC guy come out of service the system everything looks to be fine so I'm going to put the cover on and plug it in it just so happened that I have a few power options at my disposal to the left I have a regular 15 amp breaker there and the one I'm going to now is a 20 amp breaker that's for my sprinkler system and just above that to the right I have a junction box with a 220 circuit in it that one's gonna be used for my irrigation pump and with the addition of my electrical sub panel we're gonna bring a separate circuit here with a cut-off switch outside for the time being I'm gonna plug the hole with some putty but I'll come back with some pest block phone so insect can't get inside in most cases the harness is going to come out of the same hole as the drain line because my situation is a little unique things went in different direction so the clamps I'm using they're not included you'd have to pick those up separately and I have a link to that in a written version once you've wrote the drain line to where you needed to go it's pretty simple to cut to prevent Lee grime from building up next to the AC unit I install this drain line to direct that away so this is the remote for the system we're now going to see this thing turn on together so it does come with the batteries just snap the batteries and put the cover on and then we can fire up the system this system come with a Wi-Fi dongle that you would plug into the unit and this will enable the system to have the Wi-Fi feature which you can then connect to it with your phone now all you have to do is lift the lid and plug in the USB stick next you'll need to go to your app market and then look for the mr. cool app if you're not really into the smart features there no worries you can still get the same control with the remote that comes with the system this system can not only keep you cool but it can also warm you up overall I'm pretty happy about this install I finally get it working a space that is cool down now now one of the biggest downfall with this system it does come with this attached 25 foot harness so you can't cut it you have to work with it so in your case you may have to just go straight out the wall and then build some kind of box that you can call that up in and leave it there so that's the only suggestion I got for you so I've never owned a mini split before so I don't know how common this is but I do like that this has a schedule built in it I can have this operate and turn on a couple hours before I come in the shop on top of that there is an app so I can control this remotely if I'm coming home or from out of town I can change the schedule on it so that is pretty dope about this system I do want to thank mr. cool for hearing me out and definitely get me one of their units out here so I can get it in my place and be able to work in a cool environment now I hope you guys enjoyed this video don't forget to Like comment hit subscribe I have links down in the video description so check that out and I'll see you guys in the next one

https://youtu.be/kI2aLKvMHyo

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How Does a Central Air Conditioner Work?

although central air conditioners differ from model to model they operate on similar principles in this video we will address how central air conditioners work as well as potential problems you may encounter included among the components that make up a central air system is a condensing unit which is located outside the home the condensing unit contains the air conditioner condenser coils the compressor and the condenser fan motor the evaporator coils or cooling coils are located inside the home and are mounted on top of a furnace or air handler the furnace or air handler uses a circulation blower fan to draw air through the returned vent blow it past the evaporator coils and force the air through the homes venting the room air is then drawn back through the returned and the airflow cycle continues once the room air has cooled sufficiently the wall thermostat signals the circulation blower fan and condensing unit to turn off until the room temperature increases this process can be broken down into three main factors temperature control cooling and air circulation the temperature in the home is regulated by the wall thermostat the thermostat can be powered by the furnace control board or by batteries the thermostat must be in a central location in the home positioned at eye level and away from direct sunlight for proper temperature regulation when the thermostat detects an increase in temperature it closes the cooling circuit allowing voltage to travel to the control board the control board uses a time sequence to send 120 volts of alternating current to the circulation blower fan motor in the furnace and 24 volts to the condensing unit contactor when the condensing unit contactor is energized it allows 240 volts to flow through a nearby disconnect box to the compressor and condenser fan motor the disconnect box which provides a way to turn off power to the condensing unit outside includes a cartridge which may contain fuses if the compressor and condenser fan motor failed to work the disconnect box fuses can be tested for continuity to determine if a continuous electrical path is present the compressor acts as a pump compressing refrigerant in gas form into the condenser coils where the gas is condensed into a hot liquid the condenser coils dissipate the heat as the liquid travels through them and a fan is used to assist the coils in this process once the refrigerant has passed through the condenser coils it travels to the evaporator coils located on the furnace or air handler as the refrigerant liquid enters the coils it expands into a gas which makes the coils cold the gas flows through the coils to a suction line attached to the compressor the compressor converts the gas back into a liquid and the cooling cycle continues the humidity in the air condenses on the cold evaporator coils and drips down into a set of collection trays the trays are attached to either a condensate pump or a floor drain it's important to keep the condenser clean if leaves or other debris clog the coils the heat will not be dissipated properly and the system will not function efficiently you can use a garden hose to clean the condenser by spraying the coils from the inside out the most important factor in efficient operation is air flow to ensure proper air flow the air filter should be checked monthly and replaced as needed there are several types of filters available and range from 1 to 5 inches thick the filter can be installed into the slot in the return or in an air cleaner some homes will have an electronic air filter which is powered by the furnace or air handler control board when the circulation blower fan turns on the blower fan motor can run at multiple speeds to improve efficiency lower speeds are used when the furnace is heating and higher speeds are used for air conditioning if the circulation blower fan becomes noisy during use the set screw on the blower wheel may have loosened causing the wheel to wobble on the motor shaft you can fix this problem by tightening or replacing the screw or replacing the blower wheel altogether repair clinic has a solution for many of the problems you may be experiencing with your central air system to find a complete list of compatible parts you should enter the appropriate model number in our website search engine keep in mind that the condensing unit and furnace will have separate model numbers to find parts such as the circulation blower fan motor or control board you will need to enter the furnace model number to find a contactor or condenser fan motor the model number found on the condensing unit will be required our site also has an extensive selection of instructional videos to assist you covering topics like part testing disassembly and part replacement at repair clinic we make fixing things easy

https://youtu.be/uElUCGNb6SY

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HB McClure Company

Since 1914, HB McClure has served homes and businesses in Central Pennsylvania by providing premier residential, commercial, and design/build mechanical services, including heating, cooling, plumbing, electrical, and fuel oil delivery. Our expert technicians evaluate each job, recommend the best solutions, and allow the client to choose the right option for their needs. That’s our “We Recommend. You Decide.™” promise. HB McClure is an ESOP (employee stock ownership plan), so our employees are also owners. This means we never pressure our clients to purchase a product or service because we are not commissioned sales people. Our organization and work ethic are guided by an ownership culture and by the core values of People, Trust, Team Spirit, Growth, Grit, Excellence, and Respect. With over 500 employees and 300 service vehicles, we have the experience and resources to meet all of our clients’ mechanical service and installation needs and exceed their expectations. HB McClure Services include: Heating/Cooling: Oil/Gas Furnaces/Boilers Geothermal Ductless Mini Splits Duct Cleaning Indoor Air Quality Air Filtration Carbon Monoxide Detectors Humidification Programmable Wi-Fi Stats Plumbing: Water Heaters Water Softeners Well Pumps/Tanks Underground Water/Sewer Lines Drain Cleaning/Root Removal Bathroom Fixtures Bathroom Remodeling Electrical: Back-Up Generators Circuit Repairs Panel Upgrades Fuel Delivery: Heating Oil Propane Oil Tank Replacement

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My Plumber Heating and Cooling

My Plumber Heating and Cooling is primarily focused on the repair and replacement of plumbing, heating and cooling systems in private homes and businesses. A few of the services we offer include faucet repairs and replacements, leak detection and repair, shut-off valve installation and repairs, stoppages, jetting, using a sewer camera to detect and evaluate problems in the main drain line, jammed garbage disposals, clogged pipes, toilet repairs and replacements, HVAC repairs; we work on all systems, including Carrier, Trane, York, Lennox, American Standard, Payne and Rheem, Duct cleaning is a specialty as well as indoor air quality, heat pumps and central air conditioning systems, both residential and commercial systems. Our service area is vast and varied from Maryland’s dockside communities to the Blue Ridge mountain range in Virginia; chances are we service your portion of Northern Virginia or Suburban Maryland. Some of the communities that we serve are Stafford, Spotsylvania, Fauquier, Clarke Counties, Loudoun, Fairfax, Arlington, Alexandria, Anne Arundel, Frederick, Prince George’s, and Montgomery County. My Plumber takes pride in providing well prepared technicians capable of delivering quality service. We take every precaution to hire the finest technicians possible. When we send a technician or a helper into your home, you can know that we have checked his credentials, run a background check for criminal activity and before he ever sits behind the wheel of one of our vehicles his driving record has been approved and he has been tested for evidence of drug use. The plumbing and HVAC systems in your home or business are critically important to your health, safety and general comfort. We take great pride in the maintenance of those systems and that is reflected in our guarantee; one of the best in the nation.

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BeaconMedaes

BeaconMedæs is a leading specialist in the design, supply and installation of piped medical gas distribution systems. We proudly play a vital role in hospitals around the world in sustaining patients when they are at their most vulnerable. Our product portfolio includes medical gas equipment, including medical air plants, medical vacuum plants, WAGD plants, manifolds and pipeline components to NFPA 99 standards and HTM 02-01 / ISO standards. Medical gas service and support is central to everything we offer our customers. We maintain one of the world's largest service force dedicated exclusively to medical gas. Our main corporate offices and centers of expertise are in Rock Hill, South Carolina, U.S. and Staveley, near Chesterfield, England. We operate through local and regional distributors in over 40 countries and through Atlas Copco customer centers in 140 more.

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