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Final update

Have added some photos into existing blog dates. This is a group of Home island ones that didn’t fit!.

The Cocos sailing club,a non paved road on Home Island but no issue with using buggy on it. Saw these trees with a definite lean which says to me the wind can be pretty strong and persistent to cause that!

A memorial (read it), the beach as you come off the jetty to go down road to Oceania house, Some information posted on boards at cultural site.

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I will be posting photos over the next week or so. Have lots to go through because I couldn’t always post them as I went so hang in there😂

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Conclusion and comments

This trip to these 2 very different and unique islands has been on my bucket list for a long time and the realisation exceeded expectations.

The islands are so different in many ways from size, population, topography and highlights. They do have things in common eg significant Asian populations especially Malay, very friendly, very proud of their island, very socially connected and resilient. Living on these islands poses significant challenges from weather, transportation within and to and from the islands and access to just about any of the things we take for granted. Eg food and any other item you may want like clothes,white goods,tools,electronics etc have to be bought in by barge/boat generally every couple weeks and some fresh food by plane maybe once a week. This differs between islands but suffice to say if the weather is bad then you don’t get these things so resilience is definitely required. Even fuel is brought in by barge/boat. As a consequence of the challenges prices for everything are eye wateringly high and as a result most people work more than one job to afford the basics. That doesn’t mean they are living with poverty and deprivation, they aren’t. They have accepted the inconveniences of living on the islands and are willing to accept them for the unique advantages of living on the islands.

From a tourist perspective you need to be aware of these restrictions and lean into them. No good going to such unique and outstanding places and moan about the costs or the other things that may challenge you. Eg the possibility of flight disruptions, road conditions,poor to no mobile or internet even though they have NBN it is satellite based so subject to weather etc. Figure them into your holiday budget and enjoy the privilege of being on these islands. Having said that the majority of visitors tend to be in the older age groups because of the costs but they also host a reasonable number of young people especially on Cocos looking for kite and sail boarding, diving and snorkelling,fishing all of which are world class. Both islands have eateries that give a reasonable range of choices with a definite Asian leaning.

I would advise if you want to go book early and if you want car hire, certain tours or accommodation etc book them early. Often because of the small numbers of options things can book out quickly. Definitely not a destination to do last minute bookings for these unless willing to miss out. Depends how much of a gambler you are😂. I would suggest at least initially consulting a travel agent who is very familiar with the islands to get yourself started. I used a very professional agent whose owner and some staff live on Christmas Island and they have one agent in Perth who goes to the islands as well. The group I used was Indian Ocean Experiences. My agent was Claire who is the off island agent and she was the best travel agent I have ever used!

These islands both have the feel of a bygone age when holidays weren’t spent in modern hotels, beaches weren’t overcrowded and life is a quiet steady pace responding to and enjoying the environment and living a very different pace. The islands are incredibly safe. On Cocos all cars have the keys left in them and never locked. In fact the hire car owners ask you never to remove the keys as lost keys are hard to replace and the car is safe with them left in.

Definitely an unique holiday in an unfortunately reducing number of such options.

Proof cost food (this is on Cocos but much same Christmas) which is the same price the locals pay so not scamming the tourists,

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Wednesday 23rd August

Well I was supposed to be home but still on Cocos! As usual my good fortune stayed with me and I have a lovely room and verandah overlooking the sea. Directly opposite airport and the places we can get food so ideal! Had vouchers for food so had a really good hot breakfast and should also get a good lunch. I didn’t sleep well as I had had a big coffee a few hours before bed to keep me going☹️. However I was happy to enjoy the bed and nice accommodation. Funny how your perspective changes with the circumstances 😂

We have just been advised of our return flight which leaves 1525 from here and arrives Perth 2120. The arrival time is much more civilised than the original flight which was midnight!

Also my good fortune and good planning meant I had paid for a gig of wifi in hotspots on the island so I had some away from my accommodation. It can only be used on one device so I chose I pad. In my accommodation the wifi worked on both devices so could use my phone on wifi calling which I have with my provider Telstra. Doesn’t work on hotspot wifi because it only works on I pad. As a result of my hotspot wifi I can use it at the Club and the airport and because my current accommodation is so close to both it works here. Definitely have fallen on my feet with the food I packed yesterday, the wifi I decided to get on arrival and last nights accommodation. Made the disruption a lot less disruptive than it has been for others.

Miracles of miracles I am now sitting on the plane waiting for refuelling to finish and then we are off. We had a good breakfast and lunch at Virgin’s expense so not worried about eating and am aiming for a sleep or a nap.

The original plane is still on the tarmac being gone over by engineers with the hope they can fly it crew only back to Perth. Fortunately today’s flight is not full so there is plenty of room for most people to have a spare seat in their row unless they choose not too eg families.

Meant to leave 1525 and we are on take off 1540 so pretty good.

Good flight and only about 15mins late. Good to be home😁

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Wednesday 23rd August

Well I was supposed to be home but still on Cocos! As usual my good fortune stayed with me and I have a lovely room and verandah overlooking the sea. Directly opposite airport and the places we can get food so ideal! Had vouchers for food so had a really good hot breakfast and should also get a good lunch. I didn’t sleep well as I had had a big coffee a few hours before bed to keep me going☹️. However I was happy to enjoy the bed and nice accommodation. Funny how your perspective changes with the circumstances 😂

We have just been advised of our return flight which leaves 1525 from here and arrives Perth 2120. The arrival time is much more civilised than the original flight which was midnight!

Also my good fortune and good planning meant I had paid for a gig of wifi in hotspots on the island so I had some away from my accommodation. It can only be used on one device so I chose I pad. In my accommodation the wifi worked on both devices so could use my phone on wifi calling which I have with my provider Telstra. Doesn’t work on hotspot wifi because it only works on I pad. As a result of my hotspot wifi I can use it at the Club and the airport and because my current accommodation is so close to both it works here. Definitely have fallen on my feet with the food I packed yesterday, the wifi I decided to get on arrival and last nights accommodation. Made the disruption a lot less disruptive than it has been for others.

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Tuesday 22nd August (part 2)

1320and fuel done. Am now at Trannies but assumed the hotspot that is supposed to be here was but no so another plan😁.

Well what a night! Plan to the bit where we got into departures worked well then the whole thing went spectacularly to mush😏. The plane was only 15 mins late but when they inspected it they discovered that one engine had a bird strike and resulted in damage. So an hour for the engineers here to look at it and turns out worse than thought so escalated to the makers. Who several hours later said it couldn’t fly! So we are all milling around getting $8 vouchers for snacks/non alcoholic drinks while waiting for this good news! This around 2030ishAnd really only the pub with chips and chocolates and the pizza place that was basically closing when we got the vouchers. The next thing they issued was a meal voucher which because nothing is open and late anyway we can’t use tonight. Thank heavens I had used leftover food and made 2 cheese rolls so I had lunch and dinner! Then they unloaded our luggage and we collected it except mine and some other wasn’t on the trolley. After a bit of chasing they found it on the tarmac. I assume it didn’t all fit on the trolley and in the kerfuffle they forgot to go back and get those bags🤣🤣. I wasn’t worried as it certainly hadn’t left the island🤣.Next was finding accomodation for 80 souls in a place that is pretty booked out. They were pretty slick and canvassed the community to see if they could put people up and tried to match them up. Obviously a bit time consuming but they have had to do it before! They also set up the

cyclone shelter which is attached to the pub as it has cots and mattresses etc in readiness for cyclone use for people they couldn’t find places for. They really worked hard and did a great job in stressful conditions. Only a handful had to sleep in the cyclone shelter.Anyway a couple I had been hanging out with from Kangaroo Island were offered a unit in the same accommodation they had been staying all week in . It is directly opposite the airport and a place I think has breakfast and it had 2 double rooms in the unit. So I got the other room 👏. So I have my own room with shared bathroom and living area with the other couple and as no one coming in until Friday if we get further delayed I have a place to lay my head😁. There was a group of us that had been hanging out and we all kept each other going and let’s face it not much you can do so make the best of it. Part of the adventure of travel😁. Anyway seems we may get away tomorrow but we may not,no promises. There are also the flight crew stranded! Felt so sorry for a couple with a couple of primary school aged kids and a very pregnant woman. Not a real biggy for me on my own but huge for them!

Apparently they can’t remember the last time they had a plane go US after arriving. More common they never leave Perth😁. That means there is no competition for the accommodation you were staying in so you can just go back there.

Tomorrow is another day😁

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Tuesday 22nd August

Today is departure day. Mixed feelings in that I have loved my holiday but ready for home😁. I have to vacate unit at 1pm but can’t check in until 3pm. I can leave my suitcase on the verandah and pick it up after dropped off car and walk it back to airport (5min walk). It is actually easier, if hotter, to do that rather than load it into my car then out when drop off car and still have to walk the same distance pushing it as from unit verandah.In the mean time I need to refuel my hire car(fuel bowser & only one on the island) is right at the tip of the island. On way back I pass the turn off for Trannies beach so if time might pop in for one last look. Then drop car off and go and collect my suitcase and walk to the airport. The Cocos club (pub) which is basically on airport land and 10metres from check in line🤣 opens at 3pm and once checked in you can sit at the club until boarding😁. I am in shorts and thongs until I have checked in my baggage and then will avail myself of the club toilets and change into my travel clothes. I will have to post this now but will do up dates if I score any wifi once I leave my unit😁.

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Monday 21st August

Woke to bit more wind and some showers in the very early morning. Fortunately it didn’t cause a problem with my Turtle tour as cleared. Wind did make it choppy coming back but getting wet wasn’t an issue.! Got lucky again as 2 didn’t show and the other 2 had gone out early so they could fit in another tour so was just Kylie and I. We went out in the motorised canoe again and hunted for turtles. Clear and relatively shallow so very easy to spot and there are plenty of them. Had option to snorkel but didn’t need too to see them. They just seem pretty ok with canoe and swim close. Every now and again one with suddenly pop it’s head up to check you out😁. As I said yesterday dredging activity has destroyed the sea grass and that is about 80% of green turtles food so their numbers have halved. We went to an island that you can get on if the tide is low enough which was used as a crematorium in the old days if workers died as there was no refrigeration to store bodies. Sadly it also is where the turtles seem to go to die. There are dozens of shells and broken down shells. The crabs eat the bodies but the shells have to break up. Walking across the island from where we dropped anchor to the other side was 50 metres! The other end was about 100mtres. On the other side is ankle deep and at one end the sand is like quick sand because that is where the dredged stuff was dropped. This island gets a bit of rubbish from SE Asia so we picked up about half a bag while we were there. We then came and looked at the very small trial of sea grass regeneration. They are planting the rhizomes and have them in cages to protect them from the turtles who would eat them before they grew!

We then headed back and saw lots more turtles, fish and even a small reef shark. As we came toward where we anchor there are 2 areas on the beach that are used for board surfing training and there are dozens of them with their brightly coloured kites in the air. Pretty spectacular. Along with them are the windsurfers also with bright sails. While the wind can be a challenge in the canoes it is definitely much desired by these groups😂.

Once we got back in we went for a bit of a swim and the went to talk to a couple of the locals who were windsurfing and watched the set up and off. The can get across to Home Island and back in a flash. They just seem to disappear 😁.

That was my last tour and nice to finish on a high. Have to go into leaving mode now. There is so much hanging around essentially twiddling you thumbs between the time you vacate accommodation and actual check in(as is with any holiday.) My plan is to put my travel clothes in my carryon and spend spare time in island clothes of shorts and thongs. I can then change at the club (read pub) which is across the pavement from where you queue to get into the tiny airport and check in. Once checked hold luggage in you can go back into the club until flight time apparently. Not sure 2 or more hours drinking on my own is a good idea though 🤣🤣. I am hoping to get a Pizza from Saltys pre flight so can have had dinner at least! It is a 4.5hr flight to Perth with stop at Christmas to unload people who are going from Cocos to Christmas as part of their holidays. We don’t arrive in Perth until midnight and that assumes no delays ( which always seem to happen😏).

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Sunday 20th August

Take 2 of Motorised Canoe trip! Up again 0445 . This time the wind is not mad and no rain so🤞. Must say was a bit harder to get up this morning😁.

Have just got back and it was magic! Weather perfect. Where you go is to 4 separate islands but all in a protected area(by islands and reef). Area is used a lot for kite surfing as apparently international standard. We went at the peak of high tide and it is not deep at all as you can easily see the bottom. It is another picture perfect environment . The group was 20 and all couples except me. Big advantage was as the canoes are 2 person I got to go with Kylie one of the guides. So thankfully didn’t have to start the motors or steer. I just sat in the bow and my only job was to drop the anchor when told😁. So I was able to look around and enjoy the trip with no responsibilities 😁.

The canoes are motorised outrigger canoes. The motor looks a bit like a glorified lawn mower engine😂.We got a very quick introduction on how to start the motors and when, how to turn them off quickly and when and how to steer. Also what to do if we got in trouble. Kylie’s husband Ash comes with a motor boat and Kylie leads and he brings up the rear. Some of the men knew boats but some were pretty challenged as I was but by the end everyone was looking pretty confident. We only had trouble with one engine and that was my boat and as Kylie the driver not a drama. It is Ash’s job to fix the mechanical/motor issues as they arise on the hop so to speak.

The first trip in the canoes was the longest and most challenging as a bit of swell and chop so got soaking wet but was going to be anyway! They do loan you wet bags for your gear to protect them from getting wet. In the chop the canoes can take on water and they have a handy thing to bail water that gets in If needed. Some is ok but to much isn’t! You are told you will get wet in the canoes!.

Our first stop was an island that they had set up tables and there looked to be a bit of a structure on it though not sure what is for. Kylie put some food scraps out for the 1 remaining chook on the island and it also brings lots hermit crabs. We then were served cheeses,ham some salmon with sourdough bread, biscuits and dips. With that was choice cool drinks,beer or Champagne. Very civilised as we all stood on the beach and chatted. Ash then told us we were going to have a Hermit crab race. He drew a big circle and then another one just inside it and a small one in the middle. We all got ourselves a crab put them in the inner circle and we stood on the outer one. The first crab to reach the circle before the one we were standing on won. My crab came equal 3rd after a slow start. He came up from behind 🤣🤣.

We then went over to an island that has a colony of endangered skinks and did a count of what we saw in 3 designated areas. This is done for parks and wildlife to help keep tabs on them. Sort of citizen science. The next island we stopped and walked through a path across the island(about 10mins max) saw a huge frangipani tree the size of a coconut palm and popped out in an area that apparently at low tide you can walk from tiny island to the next on and there are lots! This area apparently is a big one for bird lovers as a type of bird that does get to Australia ones in migrations at certain time year. Sorry don’t remember all the specifics as not into birds😁.

This island is also the one the locals come and spend the day or camp (not legal but the locals ignore it😂) Johnny Clunies Ross who lives on West Island camps there a lot apparently 😁. Beautiful place if you have a little dingy to come across as a family even for the day which they do. Saw lots families enjoying it, cooking little gas fired burners I assume they bring themselves. Lots shade, very safe for kids, couple hammock s set up, pretty perfect! Ash also did a coconut husking demonstration and we tried the flesh of the ripe coconut and of one that was not fully mature so the white bit filled the whole nut and was soft rather than just the edges of the harder coconut meat. Some people tried to husk one themselves as we had the option. As the husk uses a star picket sticking about 30-40 cm out of the ground it is a bit risky but none got hurt trying.

We then went to the island from which we did snorkelling. I have developed a problem keeping my face down when snorkelling, partly due to be concerned I would end up off course and separated from my group and partly because my claustrophobia seems to kick in. So it was with some trepidation I decided to at least try. The idea was to snorkel around the island and pop out the other side directly opposite where our canoes were and walk to them. As it turns out the walk was about 2 mins😁. Kylie led us and Ash stood on a headland with a life buoy in case anyone got into trouble. Have to say pretty hard to do so given it is quite shallow and you can stand but have to be careful to stand on sand bits and not on the corals,but as you turn the headland there is a strong current. Fortunately it just pulls you to the sandbar near where we were to get out. However to see some really good bits you need to swim against it to get there and I am obviously not a strong enough swimmer as I couldn’t quite make it. However I bobbed up a few times when saw sand and then snorkelled so did see heaps. Saw lots fish with some swimming so close they would almost touch your goggles, Corals, sea cucumbers, reef sharks babies, and 4 turtles! It was well worth braving it even if I did pop up a few times😂😂.

We then helped put the canoes up and got driven home. It was a magic day and if tomorrow is the same weather my Turtle tour should be the same.🤞.

Comment

They advertise for kids and any age group . The website actually says you have to be able to get in and out of a canoes and moderate fitness.However we had an obese man and his elderly father who uses a walking stick turn up. They ended up not coming when they realised that some physical stuff was needed. They were offered a ride with Ash in the boat but the elderly man would not have been able to get into it. You have to be able to at the very least get into the canoes backside first, no step ins, obviously you have to be able to get out and sling an anchor, walk in water and on a track that whilst flat is strewn with dead coconut fronds and fallen coconut trees you have to step over. You don’t have to snorkel so that is fine. They also provide snorkelling gear if you don’t have it and they have a few reef shoes and Crocs you can use assuming they fit😁.

Although told to bring bathers(in fact you need to wear them as no place to change and anyway you get wet as soon as you head out on the first leg😂.) some people just wore shorts and top or those Kathmandu long travel trousers. I assume because they didn’t intend to snorkel they assumed they wouldn’t need bathers😏.

I would definitely recommend this tour, well worth it.

We were also told that Cocos is suffering with affects climate change. The seas are rising, sea temps increasing and tides changing. There has also been a loss of their sea grass due to the dredging done to created and build the Ferry Jetty which took years longer than predicted . This is what killed off the sea grass and with it the food for Green Turtles who have had to compete with the other type for the centre of corals.Plus loss of some fish.

Also there is the work on the runway that is being done by RAAF and apparently they expect to have a RAAF base here in a few years. So this little idyllic island will change.☹️

A few photos of the motorised canoe trip. Don’t do it justice ! I used the canoe again next day when did the Turtle Tour again with Kylie working the motor 😁. Also couple of the crab race😁

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Saturday 19th August

Woke to clear skies, no rain and less wind. Not exactly a breeze but still down. Bodes well for my water based activities in the next 2 days.🤞No specific plans today but might go to Trannies Beach for a swim later. After having the pleasure for 2 weeks, I am going to miss sitting on my verandah having breakfast looking at the sea every morning. Another thing I have noticed is the noise. Not man made noise, natures noise. The sound of the waves rolling and crashing is relentless day and night as is the sound of the wind in the coconut palms and the calls of birds and especially roosters! The overriding sound however is that of the sea! None of it is really background noise it is an in your face dominating presence.

Discovered yesterday that in my unit with the wifi working I can use wifi calling which means if I want to use my mobile for calls or txts I can from here only. Tested the txt and works! Who knew😁.

Have discovered that the first John Clunies Ross was born on the island of Shetland in the Scottish Hebrides. Might explain why he didn’t seem too fazed by the isolation of Cocos. Shetland is likewise a very isolated place. Mind you weather wise they are chalk and cheese. You are isolated and cold on one and on the other isolated and hot 🤣.

Am currently at Trannies beach a lovely 6km drive from my place. I did see a couple of couples riding bikes here on my way which I thought was brave😁.Got here about 10ish on with the rashie top and reef shoes(only needed if you plan to walk on the reef bit but worth wearing also as stairs to beach a bit hard on the feet and walking along the beach plenty of shells😁). This place is my idea of beach heaven. Easy to get to, quiet, beautiful clear water, reefs for those who fancy a snorkel,shade and beautiful surroundings,beach and toilet and kids playground. Also the beach is littered with shells that if you look start to walk! There are a surprising number of hermit crabs running around if you look in all sizes of shells. Also what I think are called spider crabs scamper. The rocks and shells are so varied and haven’t been crushed by peoples feet! As I was standing out in the water less than waist deep 2 fish about 20-30cm long just casually swam by. I didn’t see anymore but apparently according to a couple who were here snorkelling there are all sorts of fish and even a ray hiding here today. I am going to go walking on a bit of the reef to see what I can find. Truely this would be a perfect spot for kids and parents and all protected by the reef.

I have walked all over bits reef near the shore and there are so many fish etc to see just looking down! I saw small silvery ones, an eel looking thing with a frill in its back the length of its body darting from under one rock to the other. A few little striped and coloured fish and one black fish about 20-30cm long with tail that has a vertical orange strip on it and seem to be diving ?for food a bit like a sea bird,what I think were sea cucumbers(big fat things) and all by standing on a reef area ankle deep and standing still. I also walked around part of the beach and there are lots of secluded bits with shade. I have learned that knowing the tides means getting the best time to swim. Now I know why they leave a tide chart in the unit! Of course I didn’t consult it so it was just my usual good fortune kicking in that I timed it perfectly. Seems I was there as it was going from high to low. High was about 0630 and low 1300. As I was there about 1000hrs and stayed until 1230 I did well. At low tide it is so shallow you can’t snorkel. Walking out it was chest height when I arrived and same distance when I left was about bit above knee height. At high tide there is not much beach and can be a bit more swell.

The temp at at 8am 25 with feels like as 20 and 1330 it is 26 with feels like 24 and humidity consistent in very low 60%. Breeze now light. This was the weather I was hoping for or expecting 😁.

I am very happy that I finally got a swim and what a beautiful swim and place. Worth the wait😁

COMMENT

Just out of town I saw what looked like it is or was a RAAF facility. Couple red brick buildings typical RAAF design and only brick buildings I have seen! Also what looks like typical RAAF house but no obvious signs of action.All in good condition but gates open no people I can see and all the signs have just worn or faded so can’t see what it is.

Photos Trannies Beach. Including one of the hundreds of hermit crabs. The boat you may notice the other side reef in one photo is the Border Force boat

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Friday 18th August

Up at 0545 for my 4 hour motorised canoe tour/trip. As recently I have been waking very early it wasn’t as big an ask as you would think. Well walked down 2 houses to meet group and guide says big swells, wind and rain so the weather strikes again!! That is the second tour cancelled because of weather. Good news is that I have rebooked to this Sunday. Apparently the weather Sunday and Monday is going to be much improved with calmer seas and less wind so 🤞. I have a Turtle tour with the same company on Monday and Mondays weather is also forecast as being like Sunday. When your plans involve nature you can’t get too rigid about timetables (heavens I am definitely getting laid back😁. )

As I leave Tuesday those 2 days are my last chance. Looks like the glass bottom trip with my landlord Peter won’t happen as I am already booked for the last 2 days decent weather. The locals say this is the worst run of bad weather at this time of year for ages. Mind you their definition of bad weather is different to mine! To put the “bad weather “ in context I am sitting on my veranda at 0630 in a light cotton dress and thongs writing this with the wind some rain and overcast skies listening and watching the waves crash and very comfortable. Although water based activities are affected particularly by strong wind and the associated big swells the temp is still mid 20’s and humidity not a problem because of the wind. When it rains it is a bit of a dodgem but it doesn’t last long. For me sometimes being forced to change my plans leads me to new and better opportunities. Eg because I couldn’t do Peters trip Wednesday which I chose to be a way to see Home and Direction Island in the absence of the ferry. When that was cancelled I planned and executed my independent trip to Home Island for the Thursday and it exceeded expectations and was a wonderful day. I was also blessed with one of the best weather days (bar strong winds which didn’t worry me) I have had since I got here. The Wednesday the day of the cancelled trip was also a bonus as it allowed me a bit of down time and slower pace after the drama of getting here and to orientate my self to the island and have a bit of a drive around. As ever I am always fortunate and may it continue 😁.

I ordered some olive sourdough on Wednesday to be picked up today so really looking forward to that. If the weather continues like this all day sitting reading, eating lots of that bread with lashings of butter on it will be a pleasure 😂. There are a couple of what I would call cottage bakeries as they do a bit of baking couple times week and it is first in best dressed. They don’t seem to sell bread as we know it here,or at least I haven’t seen it. Tonight is fish and chips night and am looking forward to that. Do you notice the theme of food😂. Must have put on at least a couple of kilos due to my poor food choices and the limited options for food on both islands. However to be fair the weighting is more to my poor choices🤣🤣. Never mind once back in my normal routine all will sort itself out.

COMMENT

Chooks seem to be a recurring theme on both Cocos and Christmas Islands. They are wild and everywhere. I was told many don’t buy eggs they just find the ones the chooks lay around and as chooks often in peoples yards not that hard. There is also a lot of chicken on menus so maybe more than the eggs are collected🤣🤣. I was told that the Clunies Ross family bought chooks to Home Island so I wonder if that is where the chook invasion happened. The Clunies Ross’s also bought goats and pigs at least to Home island but they have died out (thankfully ).

As fate would have it Peter just came over to say I could have a place on the tour with him that was cancelled either Sunday or Monday and of course I am already booked. Pity but that’s how the cookie crumbles😁. If all goes to plan I will only have missed Direction Island so no biggy.

Sky seems to be clearing so maybe we might get some Ok weather today. Has been raining on and off and overcast but things change quickly!

Yep 30 mins later it was pouring! Thinking the hotspot data I had would take trying to add photos to blog I just drove there to avoid being rained on and it’s WIFI can’t handle the photos at present anyway probably because of the cloud cover. Neither can Birds nest so photos look like having to wait until home. Did check on my sourdough but not ready for another hour so went and took photos of the golf course and club. So something ticked off! Maybe today is a stay at home and read day?

When I do get to post photos it is going to be a big one so will try to label and sort between Christmas and Cocos.

It’s 1330 and finally clearer sky’s wind down a bit and warmer. I wanted to got to the shop to buy more treats (need to be sure I indulge now cos back to normal when get home.🤣🤣) I was going to walk but for the second time today I used the car. This morning I drove to check on my olive and cheese sourdough cos raining but I did walk back later to collect it. Very hot but even cooled although tastes nice it seems a bit stodgy and undercooked or poorly mixed. They have a huge day Friday because they also do takeaway pizza for those flying out to Perth and do fancy toasted sandwiches on sourdough for breakfast.I think they were turning the bread threw a bit fast. Having said all that I have cut it up to toast/ sandwich size so should be ok for eating and given no food on flight home I might freeze some and make sandwiches for the flight😁.

Almost like a normal Friday night at home with fish and chips,a red and a treat while watching a movie😁. Spent a very lazy day and even the weather improved.

The Cocos Island golf club😂😂. Didn’t play but unique opportunity😁. Commercial flights only happen Tuesday and Friday but Border force plane uses it!

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The cemetery majority Muslim and there are 4 Clunies Ross graves at the top away from the sea. The cemetery is right on a headland.

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The front Oceana house , the dovecote in the house yard and a handy banner with a bit of history 😁

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The Clunies Ross/ Oceania House Tour

Oceania House is a 5 min walk from the ferry on Home Island. You can book a tour for $25 and it is well worth it! It was designed and built by the I think second Clunies Ross who was an architect and an engineer so he knew what he was doing and that probably explains why it has survived for so long.

At this juncture I should say that the family had a liking for using John for every male with one exception, George. I was going to try to remember everything but Wikipedia seems to cover the dates etc well so I will stick to my impressions or the extras from the locals.

The young woman who took me on the tour was the caretaker,manager whatever of the place and lives on site. Apparently they have 12_18month contracts for the caretaker but she negotiated a 3 month contract. Her story is in itself interesting. She is of Pakistani heritage, born in Australia and from the Eastern States. She is an ICU physician (or might have been Emergency) but a physician who got burned out after Covid and desperately felt she needed a circuit breaker. Turns out Oceania is owned at present by an Ophthalmologist who is a friend of hers. She negotiated the shorter contract as she was not sure she would handle the isolation for too long. She has obviously boned up on the house, the family and the history so she is knowledgeable and enthusiastic. She has also made contact with the locals on Home island and talked to them about their stories about living under Clunies Ross rule. It was “rule”. They completely owned the locals. In fact when the first Clunies Ross came he brought with him over 120 indentured workers who were a mix of different races. Despite their seeming indifference to the non white population they all seemed to have married (yes not just made mistresses out of) the local Malay women. Hence all the Clunies Ross descendants are mixed race with the more recent being 3/4 Malay. The boys at least seem to have been sent to school and University in England but apparently were subject to a lot of racist abuse. The wives also spent time living in UK, even the Malay wives but whilst most suffered a similar treatment one of them was not intimidated and stood her ground apparently even better than one of the white wives of one son who was the daughter of a wealthy Canadian. Both wives mentioned are buried on Home Island.

Apparently the first John had a vision that Cocos would be a stopping off for ships on trade routes but there was no real reason why they should. Then he realised there were a lot of Coconuts so decided to set up a copra business with local island labour. This made them rich but WWW 1 and then the depression really got them wiped out as the business failed. They even invested in the Phosphate mines on Christmas Island as a source of income.

It was the one with the engineering degree who built Oceania House. It was built in the fairly protected bay lagoon area right on a corner of the island. The house was built quite close to the water and the foundation were designed to be anchored deep into the bedrock and water proofed so have stood the test of time. The building is brick brought over from Glasgow and the outside of the bricks are glazed to protect them from salt and wind damage. It makes the house look a bright shiny white. Wood is a huge theme with full height panelling on walls and wooden ceilings every where. Originally there was a tower in the centre of the house designed to help direct breezes and cool the house. However after a very big cyclone it collapsed and it was removed and some redesign done so that the stair case up stairs was moved and re designed. It is also wood, and sweeping and impressive. The windows are all deep and surrounded in wood. There is also a mogul style wooden arch in one part. All the wood is Christmas Island teak. Never heard of it but none now grows on Christmas Island. Probably all used on the house😂.

There is a beautiful library and a ballroom and dining room. I was shown a picture of a big round beautifully decorated dining table and told it has mysteriously gone missing when the family moved out. No one knows or admits to knowing where it went! If it is ever found it would be worth a kings ransom! Most of the furniture currently in the house belongs to an antique dealer of repute from ? WA but definitely Aust who owned the house before the current owner. He apparently spent a lot on restoration and though not owner has loaned quite a bit of furniture and trappings to the house. Mind you they rattle around in such a huge place.

Another thing that if you find from the era and worth a fortune is the currency tokens the family used to “pay” the workers. They could only be spent at the family store.

There was a nursery at one end of the house which was destroyed in a cyclone and not rebuilt and large glass doors were installed. Another piece of adaptive work on the building was where a veranda facing the sea was given a new roof and windows to enclose it to make it less exposed to reach some of the bedrooms. This I believe is ruined by the type of windows put in even though the rest is in context. I don’t know the years of these adaptions.

There are 6 bedrooms upstairs which are used as bed and breakfast. 2 share a bathroom and the rest have ensuite. I was shown the Queen Elizabeth II suite and called so as the legend goes that she slept there on a visit in 1954. However although the locals continue to believe there is a strong belief she actually slept on Britannia. If you ever go there book that suite. It is huge and whilst doesn’t overlook the sea it does look over the gardens. They are currently trying to get the garden back as it was.

The land was originally 6 acres but the Aust government took 3 and left 3 with the house. On the land is a couple of old buildings one of which is the old school. It was set up to teach the kids some English and the locals weren’t enamoured until they got teachers who spoke English and Malay. Schooling was until about 8yrs although I can’t quite remember so don’t quote me.

Like much of the Cocos islands which are low lying erosion is a big issue. Huge sandbag sea walls can be seen quite commonly. As erosions occurred a sea wall was built in front of the house. Since then there has been a lot of land reclaimed and now there is a reasonable buffer between the house and the sea. In the waters in front of the house you can see a bit of a sand bar and this causes a calm pond like area and this were the family kept their turtles. Ye s they had a big turtle pond which was for entertainment and eating! Now turtles lay their eggs there every year still despite not being confined anymore as they have it in their DNA!

There are some huge trees in front of the house which have a pod in which is a long nut. They are called ……..Almond tree. Can’t remember the name but think it might have been the name of an Asian country!

The trees are the size of a Morton Bay fig so impressive. In the yard other than the school house is a grave of one of the children and a wife but hard to read. Have a photo of headstone so will check who. Also a dovecote I think it is. There is also a quite long stone wall crumbling in many places which would have surrounded the property.

While the family ruled the locals lived in huts made of palm fronds, were controlled by the family in every way. In the late 60’s maybe early 70’s (worth checking a more reliable historical source here as I am a bit vague on this) there was a big hearing at the UN on the future of Cocos and the family was obviously pushing to keep things as they were. The local Malay population obviously wanted change but had no way of getting to these hearings. However they cunningly engaged fellow Malays in Asia and Australians to help fund them going and giving their side of the story. They did go and one of the most well known participants representing the local residents is still a resident on Home Island. He is very low key about it apparently as my guide went to talk to him and he was just talking about the effect on his community and in passing mentioned he was given some award. When chased he hunted around and found It was an Order of Australia😂.

The Clunies Ross moved off in late 70’s and after a referendum in 1983 the population opted to become Australian. They then started to run the island as they wanted. In just 40 years they have made huge improvements and it is no wonder they are so proud of the island. The only historical things left are the house and some of the Copra business buildings and a museum is housed in one of those buildings.

The hour tour was nowhere long enough to get alll the information although I am sure the specific historical data could be accessed with research but the local gossip and stories and the local perspective is hard to get unless here. It is such a fascinating piece of history and social history is my passion so could spend forever disappearing down research rabbit holes!

Another tidbit regarding the effect of WW2. Whilst Christmas was occupied by the Japanese the Cocos incl Home was not. It was bombed and they aimed for the house but got the Kampong with some loss of life. Nearby (relatively and part of Cocos)Direction Island was a cable station and so was bombed by the Japanese and the station managed to survive but caused enough of a show so that the Japanese believed the station was destroyed. However it continued to report until the end of the war.

[christmascocos2023]

Thursday 17th August

Another overcast and windy start with quite heavy showers overnight. I had a good night except for waking about 3am and dozing. However don’t feel tired. Must say the lack of bright sunshine, even in tropical climate seems to change the feel of the holiday spirit. I am definitely solar powered🤣. I was up at 0530 and writing this at 0630. Today is the day I am going to do my best and get to Home Island. Hope the plan works😁. Have finally got onto the Birdsnest wifi. Seems there are 2 Birdsnest options and I used the wrong one😏. Either way it is not really coping with posting so will use the hotspot wifi I purchased at one of the hotspot sites it can be used. Apparently it has a bit more grunt than the one at Birdsnest 🤞.

Well I got so over prepared that I got to the ferry jetty in time for the 0730 ferry🤣🤣. Oh well not a terrible place to waste some time looking out over the sea. Thought about catching the 0730 but would still have to sit around on Home Island so will stick with plan A!

I changed my mind again! Took the 0730 ferry and got to Home Island just before 0800. My buggy won’t be delivered until the 0830 ferry arrives here at 0900. I am glad now I opted for the early ferry as as we left the clouds cleared and the sun shone. It was a lovely ride. The boat being used as the substitute ferry looks like a good sized fishing boat(although it may in fact be used as a secondary or back up for the main ferry,and is called the R J Hawke. No prizes for where the owners political affiliation might lie😁. I sat outside and although bumpy because of the 2-4 metre swell and the speed plus all the rips and strong currents I believe are out here. Also lots spray and I took advice of local and sat at the cabin end of the bench seats(fortunately padded!)and had no probs with spray although there was lots water coming up the covered sides and cabin. It is also very noisy because of what I assume are very big powerful diesel engines. Despite all that being on the water finally and the sun shining was wonderful. As I had an hour to fill in I have just been wandering around the foreshore area. Have taken lots photos. However am now sheltered in a lovely gazebo with extras (see photo) as the sky is black again, wind has picked up and random light showers. Yet another advantage of having taken the earlier ferry as the 0830 will have a less pleasant ride I suspect. There was only 3 of us on the 0730 and as the 0830 is the last morning ferry I am keen to see how full it is given the weather.

There seems to be no cars except shire mini truck things and motorised transport is all by buggy. Makes it a very pedestrian friendly place. It is definitely a little Malaya with all street signs being Malay names and all signs mostly English and Malay although some like a memorial on the foreshore which is only in Malay. As far as I have seen it is a very laid back little place and I can even see a cute little beach to the right of where I am sitting.

As it happened there was only about 5 people on the 0830 so I prepared for nothing. Although now it has arrived my buggy has not! Fortunately the woman from the visitor centre who booked it for me happened to be meeting the ferry to collect something as she works on Home Island today. She is going to call the buggy man and find out where he is for me. I yet again fall on my feet’s 😁. Good thing I came early or would have lost some touristing time😁. Things do rather move at island time especially as most people seem to have more than one job. The buggy man came about 20mins later than he should have and in his defence the tourist place had me down as an overnight hire starting yesterday🤷‍♀️. Anyway he went through everything and it was his wife who told me about the pop up food. I have taken a photo of my bright blue buggy and will post. Being short the distance from the seat to the steering wheel meant I had to have arm extending and reaching or sit on the edge of the seat to reach more easily. He forgot to show me reverse but figured it out. Got going a bit shakily with the accelerator but soon buzzing along😁. Certainly can’t speed as max any where on that island is 30km/hr and parts of residential area are 8km/hr. The man also warned me that the locals don’t even notice Give Way signs to keep eyes peeled! Seems the local kids might be a traffic hazard as he also said that I was lucky I was only driving around in school hours🤷‍♀️. In case you think the kids can use the buggies every driver has to have a drivers licence and all the buggies are register just like cars. I did keep an eye on the battery light thing but was fine but another couple told me on the ferry home that theirs had just gone flat fortunately in town and they had to abandon it and return the key. I suspect the fact they went flat is the weight their buggy was carrying compared to mine. Both husband and wife were morbidly obese.

Good news is the sun is out, lots blue sky and wind dropped so looking good. Having said that the weather does turn quickly!

Well the buggy arrived,the sun came out, clouds pretty well cleared and a beautiful day. Still some seriously strong winds on and off and depending on the side of the island you are. Good thing as golf buggy not equipped for rain😁. Once I had the buggy and a map I was off. Even with my famous sense of direction or lack there of you can’t get lost on Home Island as very small. As only buggy’s or quad bike type things allowed the roads in the main area are lovely small paving squares and a dream to drive on. Very well thought out and neat tidy homes with everyone it seems having one or more boats😁. Once you get a bit further especially along the coastlines the roads become dirt or limestone but as all people have is these little buggy’s even these roads are well maintained. It seems everyone who lives here takes great pride in the place and it shows. The beaches on what they call the lagoon side are pristine and safe as well as photogenic. Even the ones that aren’t on the lagoon side look wonderful. If they were in WA they would be alive with people even with the strong wind as the temp is in the mid to high 20’s and you can’t feel the humidity because of the wind. Apparently it doesn’t blow this hard normally at this time of the year but they do normally get lovely breezes during this period . The whole place is just picture perfect and like being in Malaysia with a western twist. Unfortunately at present no reliably open places to buy a snack or lunch and all a bit random re opening. However there was a pop up doing Malay takeaways outside the Supermarket. It was busy and I wanted to keep going so didn’t bother. Never got lunch and forgot to bring the snacks I usually carry for such occasions (blame the early start). I also realised on the way home that other than my water bottle I hadn��t even drunk enough water. There was just so much to cover and I got caught up😁. There was a restaurant but it has been closed for renovations and it looks like it is going to be sizeable. They have a shop which is pretty good but to stay here you would have to cook or go back and forward to West Island on the ferry.

I did a tour of Oceania House the home of the Clunies Ross dynasty until 1983. The tour was an hour and I had the guide on my own and it was fantastic as is the house. Because she gave me so much information I am going to do a separate section about that tour and what I learned. As there was so much it might take a while for me to remember and be sure I have got as much as I can down. There is a book apparently you can buy here about the dynasty but it is written by a CluniesRoss and as such should be read in context😏.

I did among many things go out to the cemetery where I got photographs of 4 Clunies Ross grave and also one that is in the grounds of the house. They seemed to be the only Christian graves amongst the rest who are Malay and I assume Islamic faith. The cemetery is still being used. Before you get too high expectations I was so entranced with what I was being told during the tour I didn’t take photos inside the house. Anyway a photo wouldn’t do it justice. To soften the blow I will tell you that there is a Clunies Ross living on West Island but none on Home island☹️.

I have taken lots photos of my buggy tour but they won’t give you the reality. It is a real piece of paradise albeit a very isolated piece and I am not sure if any one who is not Malay or was or has links even lives on the island. It seems a very Malay enclave although over the years the locals have developed a few quirks to their ancestry that are quintessentially Home Islanders quirks. It is basically a Kampong.

I am just writing this and chilling out after a busy day and have eaten a bit and drunk lots water so back on track. I seem to have mastered my car’s oddities but still very careful and am not going to get cocky.

I am off on a motorised canoe tour tomorrow. Bit of a worry me and canoe skills😂😏. According to my paperwork we meet outside the guides house(about 3 down from me) at 0550hrs . However whether that still holds not sure. I have learned to expect the unexpected and roll with the dice🤣. The weather remains sunny and dry so I am hoping for good things over the weekend. Might actually get wet other than from the rain🤣🤣.

Home Island photos:

The lovely gazebo type structure on the island with it unique centre and looking out to the ferry jetty.

My buggy,a typical street on Home Island,

[christmascocos2023]

Wednesday 16th August

Before I get to today,as promised a bit more detail on yesterday.

As I said the flight was delayed by an hour because the incoming from Perth was an hour late.(I have been told by locals this is not an unusual occurrence). Yesterday was late because they had to redistribute the hold load so better balanced. Apparently it was carrying freight as well. As what they were putting into the hold was known in advance have no idea why they hadn’t sorted this in advance. I think they need a good loadmaster😂. By, the time we got to Cocos it was dark,windy and showers of rain. Not an auspicious start! However I was saved by the lovely Jill who was standing there with a sign held up for my accomodation. She just took over and helped me find my car,move my luggage and give me the gen re getting some food. Unlike the flight from Perth I came on this flight was just snacks and no food. Poor passengers going on to Perth! However at the airport is a place called Saltys which does pizzas fast for the transit passengers (you have to know that but people cotton on quick). The same place then does them and delivers across the lawn from them to the Cocos club(read local pub and bottle shop😁). I preordered then and walked back 40mins later after dropping stuff at my accommodation (I will just use its name Birdsnest from now on). Jill had me follow her to Birdsnest, settled me in and was generally extremely helpful and things just seemed under control again! She actually manages the place and the owner Peter lives next door. I walked the 3mins back and as my pizza wasn’t quite ready popped into the club and bought a bottle of red.

COMMENT

The management of transit and other passengers and the staying people’s luggage is very unique at least in my experience. They do the usual directing groups down different routes but those staying end up corralled in a pen area with a barrier like in the airport queues lines. Then an either border force or police person tells us to watch a screen which tells us about the road rules. Fastest is 50km and mainly 30km/hr. They also have these sites set up with a radio that you can call police or ambulance on as there is no mobile service on the island at all. In the same place is free first aid items you can use for free but tell police what you used so they can replace. Very innovative people here😁.

We then stood about and the tug carrying our luggage pulls in in Front of us and undercover and the barrier is removed and we are told to collect our baggage😁. Talk about a free for all😂. As you can imagine I was tired, hungry and over it so Jill’s friendly face was a godsend.

NOW TO TODAY

Woke after a restless night so not refreshed. I think I may be back in a run of restless nights☹️. Certainly my back is sore so that probably wakes me. Still Panadol and a red should sort for tonight😁. It was however very quiet except for the wind and the pounding of the wave both of which were very relaxing (but seemingly not enough to keep me asleep). Still if you are awake it is a lovely sound to hear. I will post photos but I am literally a narrow roads width from the ocean and can sit on my veranda or in my lounge and see the ocean. Unfortunately you can’t swim in this bit as has massive rips ,drop offs and is dangerous. However there is a little pool area I am told very close you can have a dip in. The weather has remained overcast, windy and sporadic showers so swim isn’t so inviting today although not cold at all. I am still in shorts and thongs😁.

Due to the weather my 4 hr boat tour which was my way of dealing with the severe reduction of the ferry service to Home and Direction Island (for ferry maintenance and was aware in advance hence the tour booking) was cancelled. The man who runs it is Peter who lives next door and owns the Birdsnest. He is a lovely man and says he will see once the weather improves if he can fit me in somewhere around my other tours.

Given my sudden free morning I decided to walk down to the visitors and community resource centre to see what i could do around my other tours that would at least get me to Home Island. The big fly in the ointment is the limited ferry service and fact that only takes 15 people each time and it is a 30min trip. It is first in best dressed so not exactly reliable. However after talking with the lady at the visitors who lives on Home Island and works here on West Island and hence reliant on the ferry for work we hatched a plan that is as risk proof as we can. I have booked a self drive buggy on Home island which will meet me off the ferry. I am getting the 0830 ferry tomorrow and will get there at 8 if not earlier to be at the head of the cue which should increase my chances! If I miss that ferry the whole plan collapses.

I have also booked a tour of the Clunies Ross house and hopefully will get back on the 4pm ferry🤞.

Having done that I set up my wifi hotspot for use outside of my unit(whose wifi I am still not able to connect too!). I am hoping at some stage to use the hotspot connection at the resource centre to try getting the blog out.

Found the shop and where my other 2 tours leave from and none more than 5 mins walk from Birdsnest incl the Cocos club,Saltys, other eateries, visitors and resources centre etc. The beaches best to swim at and the ferry are about 4-6km away hence the car advantage. There is a bus that runs to the ferry which cost 50c for bus and $2.50 ferry one way and cash small denomination only as limited change😁.

My car is a story in itself. I will post a photo but it is a huge red Nissan 4 x4 and a proper one if a bit worse for wear. I need a ladder to get into it and feel ridiculous driving it😂. It also has one idiosyncrasy. It has an immobiliser that if you don’t press a button on the key ring you can’t start the engine.. why it has this given everybody is told to leave the keys in the car as no crime so safe🤷‍♀️. Anyway my immobiliser button is broken and awaiting a replacement. So I was left instructions to touch the 2 wires together to turn it off So I could start the car😬. As it was pitch black, raining and I didn’t have my reading glasses on I couldn’t read that but must have accidentally touched them while I was trying to figure out how to start it and off we went. Didn’t find out the whole deal until this morning🤣. Nearly got caught out locking myself out of the car this morning when I must have done something to this finely tuned set wires and couldn’t open the door. Fortunately I had left the driver window down and managed to reach in and jiggle the thing to get the door open..I am going to have to get much better at managing that idiosyncratic system as paranoid now I will lock myself out again. Am seriously considering breaking the rules and taking the keys with me but equally paranoid I will lose them or further damage the system! Rental cars are all booked up so I was just the lucky punter😏.

Found out that they are building something for the RAAF here which I assume is something attached to the airport but no idea. Do know that as a result there are workers,many with their families living here for 18mths to 2yrs which puts pressure on accommodation.

Despite my best efforts till no WIFI working in accommodation so will have to catch Peter to ask why.

Did a drive around after lunch to all the beaches and tourist areas that are out of walking distance incl a dummy run to where the ferry leaves tomorrow. I am paranoid about not getting on and as the visitors centre is telling everyone get there at 8 for the 8.30 ferry t be sure am going to try to get there at 0730. So much is hanging on getting on this ferry so am going to everything to maximise my chances😁.

I took a few photos but hard to capture. It looks like Hawaii as in films with narrow roads weaving through coconut palms and tropical trees with about 50mtres of cleared ground between the road and the palms. Looks like the road is going through a lawn area with garden behind. Very impressive. There is a coconut farm here. They do a tour but only one day a week and I missed it! Many of the beaches are signed not to swim due to severe rips and very strong currents. There is a couple of beautiful beaches where you can swim and I plan to try to get some swimming in on the weekend when I hope the wind will die down and weather improves. However despite the weather have managed well seeing stuff so happy. However big day and early start to so having dinner in my unit. I really never feel much like eating out after a big day as a tourist anyway but making an exception Friday as is fish and chips night at Saltys 😁.

Photos: my enormous car is seen in the view from my unit verandah, view from car back to the unit, and the road to the ferry and that is typical of all the roads,so pretty!

[christmascocos2023]

Part 2 Tuesday 15 August

Well true to form Virgin at 1230 for a 1400 check in just txt to say flight delay to 1650 from 1605😖. No wonder I am not a fan of flying anywhere. Give me a train or bus anytime! I am a skeptic and anticipate there will be further delays 😏.

Fortunately I didn’t rush out and left at 1200 (my check out time). I refueled, handed in the EPIRB and the went to check out the Old European Cemetery. Another Island road but at least a turn around. Took lots snaps of headstones as didn’t want to be too long reading them. Hopefully I can decipher from my photos!

Then to the cafe at the recreation centre for lunch. Seems I can take my time over lunch now😏.

Got to the airport just before 1400 and could check in hold luggage but the door to take us through customs and the departure won’t be open until 1530 so hour and half to fill in. Not exactly opportunities for walk and not keen to take my car out again so am sitting on a veranda at the front entrance of the airport making the most of the fresh air. Breeze is cool and temp seems to have dropped a bit. Looking increasingly threatening sky so rain here looks certain so will be at Cocos.

Glad I didn’t take my car out as at exactly 1400 (the original checkin time) the Kiat people came and collected the cars.

Well as predicted the flight was so late it was dark. Cocos seems to be about 25mins behind Christmas it turns out and even then it was after 8pm before I got to my accommodation. Will write all that up tomorrow at present feeling a bit overwhelmed. No comms at all as overcast and internet access Is satellite based so may go the whole time with nothing! Have been too over it to unpack so just got the basics, had some dinner and a shower and in bed but still 2225 Cocos time. I did get a pizza for dinner and a bottle of red so not too bad. I think my mood is flat because I have spent since 2pm hanging around in airport and on planes. Takes the edge off the adventure ☹️. Hopefully a good nights sleep will improve things. Wind is very strong and I can hear the sea pounding so nice sounds to sleep too. It has also rained tonight and predicted cloud, rain and swell most of the time I am here !

Some photos of the old European Cemetery I checked out on Christmas before I left. Such a lonely place but quite a range of time for the headstones and also nationalities.