cnfhumss12a-blog

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Nĭ Hăo Binondo!

By Stephanie Dela Cruz

Kung maghahanap ka lang ng gwapong chinito, huwag ka nang pumunta sa Binondo– marami naman dyan sa tabi-tabi. Ngunit, kung nais mong makaranas ng kakaibang eksena, bumiyahe na papuntang Binondo! Sorry, hindi ko alam kung papaano mag-commute papunta dito dahil hinatid lang ako ni Papa (ayaw niya raw kasi akong mapagod– sosyal!). Kahit na ilang beses na akong nakapunta dito, naging masaya ang biyahe dahil nakasama ko ang aking kaibigang si Ram na first time pumunta dito. Mukhang natuwa rin si Papa dahil inalok niya pa kaming i-tour sa lugar na kinalakihan niya– syempre pumayag nalang kami para iwas sermon at pagod.

           Nagsimula ang kalakalan sa pagitan ng Tsina at ng Pilipinas noong 982 AD at kadalasan, pumupuntang Pilipinas ang mga Instik na mangangalakal upang makipagpalitan ng mga kalakal. Dahil dito, noong Sung Dynasty, sumikat ang mga intermarriages kaya naman napakaraming Tsinoy na katulad ko ngayon. Kaway kaway sa mga kapwa kong mahilig sa chinito dyan! Una naming napuntahan ang Lucky Chinatown Mall at dito lang ako nakaihi na parang isang karakter sa teleseryeng Meteor Garden– kahit sa CR ay may tumutugtog na Chinese OST! Ang sarap tuloy mag-emote. Maganda rin ang lighting kaya ayos mag-mirror selfie. Tambayan ito ng mga gustong mamili sa mga kilalang brands. Kapag gusto mong magpalamig pagkatapos ng sangkatutak na paglalakad, ang LCM rin ang tatakbuhan mo. Tuwing bumibisita kami ng pamilya ko dito sa Binondo, sa LCM lang ako tumatambay para hindi mainitan at mag-amoy araw (maarte na kung maarte). Ang mall ay matatagpuan sa Reina Regente at De La Reina St. malapit sa Divisoria. Mababait naman ang karamihan ng tao dito kaya hindi mahirap magtanong ng mga direksyon sa mga locals na makakasalubong mo. Ang kagandahan dito, kahit na isa sa pinakamodernong gusali sa Binondo, hindi pa rin nawawala ang mayamang kultura ng Tsina. Aakalain mong Chinese New Year sa tuwing pumupunta dito dahil sa mga dekorasyon at tugtog.

           Mula sa LCM, sinamahan kami ni Papa papunta sa Seng Guan Temple na matatagpuan sa Narra St., humigit-kumulang limang minuto ang lakad papunta dito mula sa LCM. Pwede rin naman kayong mag-tricycle o kaya sumakay ng kalesa (oo, may kalesa dito!) kapag ayaw niyong mainitan. Pero para sa amin, okay lang mag-amoy araw para sa ultimate Binondo experience! Ang Seng Guan Temple ay itinayo noong 1949 at mula noon ay patuloy nang inayos ang arkitektura. Sa pagpunta namin dito, pinagdasal na rin namin ni Papa ang kaluluwa ng pumanaw kong lolo. Mayroon kasing mga pangalan ng mga pumanaw na Buddhists sa loob ng temple para mabasbasan. Bukas sa lahat ang temple na ito at wala pang entrance fee kaya kapag napadpad ka sa Binondo, isama mo ito sa mga pupuntahan para makaranas ng ibang kultura. Pagkarating sa pangalawang palapag ng temple, binanggit ng tatay ko na dito nakalagay ang pinakamalaking Buddhist shrine sa buong Pilipinas. May isang shrine na sasalubong sa iyo pagtungtong sa pangalawang palapag at inakala kong iyon na ang tinutukoy ni Papa. “Ah, ito iyon?” hindi ko naiwasang itanong dahil umasa akong mas malaki pa ang makikita. “Hindi, andito.” Paglingon sa kaliwa ng silid, napanganga ako sa gandang aking nakita– malaki nga.

           Iba ang pakiramdam nang tumungtong ako sa espasyo kung saan nakalagay ang shrine. Gumaan ang loob at para bang nawala ang lahat ng problema. Pareho kami ni Ram na nakanganga habang tinitignan ang shrine habang ang tatay ko naman ay dali-dali kaming pinatayo sa harap upang makuhanan ng litrato habang wala pang ibang tao. Ang shrine na ito ay binubuo ng anim na iba’t ibang Bodhisattva– ang mga malapit na maging Buddha, at si Medicine Buddha naman ang nakaupo sa gitna na dinadasalan ng mga taong may sakit o mahinang kalusugan. Sa pagbisita ko dito, nakita ko harap-harapan ang ilan sa aking napag-aralan sa klase naming World Religions (kunyari naaalala ko pa). Dahil sa ganda ng shrine at ang kawili-wiling kuwento ng mga Buddha at Bodhisattva, dumaan sa isipan kong maging Buddhist– Buddhist na naman ang lola ko kaya hindi ako mahihirapan kung sakali; pero siyempre, si Jesus Christ pa rin ang nasa puso ko! Amen.

           Pagkatapos bumisita sa Seng Guan Temple, laking tuwa ko nang iwan ako ni Papa kasama ang aking ibang mga kaklase. Siguro naglakad-lakad din siya at nag-gunita ng mga alaala sa lugar ng kabataan niya– hindi rin naman kasi kami madalas bumista dito. Minsan niya lang akong payagang maglakwatsa nang hindi siya kasama kaya naman sinulit ko na. Naisipan naming kumain muna at agad-agad kong inimungkahi ang paborito kong kainan– Tasty Dumplings! Ang kainan na ito ay makikita sa tabi ng Binondo Church o ang Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz na agad-agad mong makikita pagdating sa Binondo, medyo tago nga lang kaya kailangang talasan ang mga mata sa maliit na signage ng restawran. May pagkasikip sa loob ng kainan pero hindi sa puntong ramdam mo ang pag-vibrate ng cellphone ng katabi mo– ang O.A. nun. May espasyo pa naman kahit papaano para sa privacy. Kilala sila sa kanilang dumplings ngunit hindi iyon ang palagi kong ino-order para maiba. Sa halagang 125 pesos, sulit na sulit ang putaheng nilang porkchop rice dahil sa laki at kakaibang lasa nito– may pagka-tamis at takam mo ang soy sauce sa bawat kagat. Samahan pa ng malamig na Wintermelon juice na halagang 60 pesos lang para takam na takam ang malambot na porkchop at ang malutong na balat nito.

           Dahil lumaki ako sa isang pamilyang mahilig sa hopia (sila lang, ayoko sa hopia), hindi na bago sa akin ang tatak na Eng Bee Tin. Imbis na nasa isang stall lang, isang malaking gusali ang tindahan dito sa Binondo at ang nakakagulat pa, mayroong coffee shop at souvenir store sa ikalawang palapag. Ang Eng Bee Tin ay unang itinatag noong 1912 ni Chua Chiu Hong, isang migrante mula sa Tsina, sa Ongpin Street, Binondo. Ang ilang sa mga produktong binebenta nila ay hopia, tikoy, mooncakes, at iba pang putaheng Chinese. Dahil sa patuloy na pag-asenso ng negosyo, ngayon ay mayroon na silang binebenta na milktea, mochi, at mga t-shirt. Isipin mo, dati nagbebenta ka lang ng hopia, ngayon yung binebenta mong hopia nasa t-shirt na! Ang gusaling ito ay makikita sa Ongpin St. at malalaman mong malapit ka na kapag naririnig mo na ang walang tigil na pag-endorso ni Korina Sanchez kasabay ng kanilang nakakarindi pero catchy na jingle–“hindi ka mabibitin, sa Eng Bee Tin!”

           Pagkatapos libutin ang Eng Bee Tin, naglakad-lakad pa kami hanggang sa napadpad kami sa iba’t ibang mga tindahan na nagbebenta ng lucky charms at mga murang alahas at relo (tunay ang mga produkto!). Sa kalalakad ay hindi namin namalayan na napunta na kami sa banda ng Santa Cruz Church. Napalayo na kami sa Binondo. Masyado ata kaming nalibang sa paglalakad kaya naman bumalik na kami sa aming pinanggalingan para hindi na mapalayo pa. Bago umuwi ay naisipan naming kumain ulit sa isa pang kilalang kainan sa Ongpin Street, Binondo– Café Mezzanine! Ang unang palapag ng kainan ay karaniwang punong-puno ng mga tao at mukhang isang diner habang ang pangalawang palapag naman ay naka air-condition at may dim lighting– syempre sa pangalawang palapag kami kumain para mas sosyal at tahimik; sa baba kasi, matatabunan ang boses ng kausap mo sa paghigop ng iba’t ibang tao.  Sa mga madadaldal katulad ko, isa iyong ekis! Umorder lang kami ng dalawang Xiao Long Bao at pinaghatian nalang. Buti nalang ay nakasama namin ang tatay ng isa kong kaklase kaya naman napalibre pa kami (salamat tito!). Maliban sa masasarap na pagkain, ang Café Mezzanine ay mayroong kawili-wiling kuwento. Ito ay tinatawag na ‘The Fireman’s Coffee Shop’ dahil lahat ng kinikita ay ibinibigay sa Binondo at Paco Fire Volunteer at ang mga volunteers ay makakakuha ng 20% discount kapag kumain dito. Kahit na café ang tawag sa kainan, mayroon silang binebenta na mga putahe katulad ng Asado Pork Egg, Lechon Kawali, Pancit Canton, Lomi, at iba pa kaya mabubusog ka na dito, hindi pa nakakaiyak sa wallet (290 pesos na ang pinakamahal na putahe, Norweigan salmon pa iyon!). Upang makaiwas sa traffic, pag-tapat ng alas kwatro, umuwi na ako. Zài jiàn (paalam) Binondo!

           Ang Binondo ay kilala sa Divisoria kung saan maraming nabibiling kagamitan sa murang presyo, kaya naman kadalasan ay napakaraming tao dito. Ang tip ko, pumunta nang maaga para makaiwas sa traffic at rami ng tao. Para sa mga mahilig mag-foodtrip, isama niyo ang Binondo sa inyong checklist dahil napakaraming makakainan dito. Para naman sa mga mahilig mamili ng damit, alahas, at furniture, marami rin dito sa Binondo– mura na, maayos pa ang kalidad (ng iba)! Sa dami ng tindahan, karamihan dito ay pagmamay-ari ng Instik kaya naman magsasawa kang marinig ang “ito mura, maganda pa!” pero huwag palaging magpapadala sa sales talk– lahat na ng magagandang salita sasabihin nila para kumita. Huwag din naman maging masyadong kuripot, pumapayag ang iba na tawaran ang presyo pero alalahanin mong ito ang kanilang hanap-buhay. Kapag gusto mo ng talagang murang kagamitan na pwedeng tawaran hanggang kalahati ng presyo, pumunta sa 168 o 999 mall na makikita banda St. Elena at Soler Street, huwag sa mga tindahang madadaanan sa kalye– kadalasan kasi original ang mga binebenta dito kaya medyo mahal.

           Ang kapaligiran ng Binondo ay ibang-iba kung ikukumpara sa mga kadalasan kong pinupuntahan tulad ng Ayala Malls at Bonifacio Global City kaya naman tuwing pumupunta dito ay nag-iiba ang aking pagkilos at pag-uugali. Pagkatapos mag-picture, itatago agad ang cellphone. Bago tumawid sa kabilang kalye, mabilis na magdadasal na sana hindi masagasaan. Ngunit, hindi naman totoo na sa bawat kalye ng Binondo ay may magnanakaw– huwag matakot, pero wala namang masama sa pagiging maingat. Hindi rin kagandahan ang mga kalye ng Binondo at dahil sa maruming Estero De Binondo at sandamakmak na sasakyang dumadaan sa masisikip na kalye, paminsan ay mapanghi ang simoy ng hangin at kahit anong pagtakip ang gawin mo, sinusundan ka ng amoy. Gayunpaman, kung nais mong magkaroon ng one of a kind adventure, tipong maiinggit ang mga tao pag kinuwento mo, hindi ka bibiguin ng Binondo.

 Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Steph

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Kasiyahang Hindi Inaasahan sa Binondo

By Aaron Capacite

   Bago pa man pumunta sa Binondo, Manila, kaba ang unang naramdaman ko sapagkat hindi ako madalas pumunta sa mga lugar na hindi ko masyadong alam. Ang Binondo ay isang bagong lugar para sa akin. Sa Parañaque ako tumitira simula noong bata pa ako at hindi rin ako masyadong dinadala ng aking mga magulang sa mga lugar sa Manila, Makati, Quezon, at sa iba pang lugar sa bandang itaas ng National Capital Region o NCR. Dalawa ang naging dahilan ng aking pagkakaba: una dahil ako’y natatakot sa mga posibleng mangyaring masama sa akin, at ikalawa ay dahil gusto kong makapag-explore sa bagong lugar na ito para sa akin.

           Sa araw na pinlano kong pumunta sa Binondo, hindi ko pa alam kung paano makarating doon. Dahil unang beses pa lang akong makakapunta sa lugar na iyon, naghanap ako ng mga kaklase at kaibigan ko na makakasabay ko papunta roon. Nakahanap ako ng tatlong makakasama ko: sina Abe, Char, at Kiana. Naghanap din muna kami ng tulong sa Google kung ano ang dapat naming sakyan at kung saan kami dapat bumaba. Mula sa Taft Avenue, Manila, tatlong paraan ang nahanap namin.

           Una, ang pinakakumportableng paraan ay ang pagsakay ng LRT 1. Para sa akin, mas kaunti ang panganib sa transportasyong ito. Bukod dito, naka-aircon pa ang ito at mabilis ang andar lalo nang hindi makakaranas ng matinding trapiko. Subalit, maglalakad pa ng kaunti pagkatapos bumaba sa istasyon ng Carriedo. Sa init ng Pilipinas, karaniwan lang na ito ang sasakyan ng mga estudyanteng katulad ko na hindi masyadong gumagala.

           Ikalawa ay ang FX na naka-aircon din, at ang babaan pa ay sa tapat na mismo ng Binondo Church. Kaso, naisip kong maraming tao na ang nabiktima ng holdap na nakikita ko sa mga balita sa dyaryo, telebisyon, o kaya sa Facebook. May mga taong papasok lang para gumawa ng krimen sabay alis agad. Nakakatakot.

           Ang huling paraan naman ay ang pagsakay sa jeep. Wala itong aircon pero katulad ng FX, ang babaan namin ay sa tapat na mismo ng Binondo Church. Kahit na ito ay malayo sa maginhawang paraan papuntang Binondo, ito ang aming ginawa. Kaunting minuto lang an gaming inantay para sa jeep na papuntang Divisoria at nakasakay na kami. Dahil sa pagsakay ng jeep, mas napadali para sa akin madama ang biyahe papunta sa lugar dahil magagamit halos lahat ng pandama ng tao, hindi ko lang alam sa panlasa.

           Mga dalawampung minuto lang at nakarating na kami sa Jones Bridge at nakita ang Binondo Chinatown arch. Nakamura pa kami sa pamasahe. Nang nakita ang Binondo Church, nagpababa kami sa Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz na nasa tapat ng simbahan. Tinignan ko mula taas hangga’t baba ang simbahan at napahanga dahil sa kakaibang itsura nito sa mga modernong simbahan. Ngunit, napansin ko sa harap ng simbahan ang mga taong hindi maganda ang palagay na naka-upo o kaya nakahiga lang doon. Wala naman kaming magawa sa plaza kaya pumasok kami sa simbahan.

           Pagpasok sa mga pintuan ng simbahan, ang unang napansin ko ay isang tindahan ng mga relihiyosong gamit tulad ng mga rosaryo at mga kandila. Sa kanan, may mga taong nagsisindi ng kandila at iniiwan doon. Nag-aalay sila ng mga ganito para yata mapakinggan ang hiling nila sa Diyos. Hindi ko inaasahang malawak pala ang loob ng simbahan, tahimik din. Sina Abe, lumuhod upang magdasal habang ako’y nakatayo lang sa bandang likod ng simbahan. Tinignan ko ang mga taong nagdarasal, hindi pa ‘ata lalampas ng sampu ang mga tao roon. Lahat pa sila nasa mga upuang nasa bandang likod. Hindi naman ako nanghuhusga sa mga taong andoon, pero habang tinitignan, naisip ko kung sila ba talaga’y andoon para makipag-usap sa Diyos o para manghini lang ng kung ano-ano. Hindi ba dapat kung gusto nila kausapin ang Diyos ay nasa harap sila kung saan mas malapit ito sa katawan ni Kristo.

           Natapos sina Abe magdasal, at lumabas na kami. Napansin ko na naman sa harap ng simbahan ang mga taong nakita ko kanina bago pumasok, subalit may dumagdag. May isang taong, mas malinis ang suot at itsura, na kumakausap sa isang batang nakaupo. Nakipag-picture pa siya. Hindi ko alam kung nagbigay siya ng pagkain o kung ano man, pero ang alam ko ay napasaya niya ang bata sa simpleng paraan na iyon. Ang gaan sa pakiramdam na malamang may mga ganoong tao.

           Naglakad na kami papunta sa Ongpin street, at nadaanan ang isang bridge kung saan may malaking arch na naman na nagsasabing nasa Chinatown kami. Ang sumalubong sa amin sa Chinatown ay ang iba’t-ibang tindahang nagbebenta ng mga prutas at gulay, pati na rin ang mga supermarket. Puro negosyo talaga. Tanghali na noong pumunta kami roon, kaya nananghalian muna kami.

           Hindi Chowking ang kinainan namin, sa Estero Fast Food kami kumain. Sa loob, marami pang mga lugar na maaaring pagbilihan ng authentic Chinese food. Puwedeng kumain sa labas lang kung saan mararamdaman ang sariwang hangin na buga ng mundo, at dinagdagan din ng electric fan para sa mga nakukulangan sa hangin. O kaya naman, sa loob ng isang kuwartong air-conditioned. Pinili namin ang kuwarto sapagkat mapapasarap ang pagkain namin (kasama na rin sa dahilan ay mainit na tuwing tanghali). Nag-order kami ng apat na plato na medium ang laki, tatlo para sa ulam namin at isa para sa kanin. Fried spare ribs, beef with broccoli, at garlic shrimp ang mga ulam namin, habang ang kanin ay yang chow. Sa halagang 780 pesos lahat-lahat na, hindi lang kami nabusog, nasarapan pa kami.

           Para mawala ang bigat sa tiyan, naglakad-lakad na kami sa Chinatown. Tinuloy namin ang paglalakad sa Ongpin street at nakakita ng mga tindahan ng Feng Shui charms pati na rin mga Chinese drug store. Sa paglakbay lang na ‘yon ang nakakita ng mga tindahan ng Feng Shui na pampasuwerte. Dahil sa pagtataka namin kung ano ang mga pampasuwerteng ito, pumasok kami sa isang tindahan nangangalang Dragon Phoenix Enterprises na nasa Ongpin street din.Karamihan sa loob ay mga modelo siguro ng mga sikat na diyos at diyosa ng mga Tsino. Ang iba naman ay puro pampasuwerte na lang. Bago kami lumabas, may isang taong kakabili lang ng gamit sa tindahn at ang kahero ay may ginawang ritwal siguro upang basbasan ang gamit parang gawain ng ibang mga Katoliko. Dahil ngayon ko lang ‘yon nakita, namangha ako.

           Maliban sa mga tindahan ng Feng Shui, pumasok din kami sa mga Chinese drug store na makikita kahit saan sa Ongpin street, o sa buong Chinatown. Sa unang drug store na aming pinuntahan, mainit at masikip kaya lumabas agad kami. Nakahanap pa kami ng mas malamig at malawak na drug store kung saan doon kami tumingin-tingin. Kakaiba ang mga gamot na mayroon sila, hindi ko alam ang mga ito. Isa lang ‘ata ang pamilyar sa akin doon sa loob: ang sikat na white flower oil na “nakakapaggaling” ng kahit anong sakit, na ibinibigay ng nars sa mga paaralan. Sa pagtitingin-tingin pa, napansin ko ang bawat gamot o pampalakas na mayroon doon ay para sa mga organ ng katawan. Ayun, puwede para sa akin ‘to lalo na’t hindi ako kumakain ng gulay.

           Natapos ang pagtingin namin sa mga drug store, at nag-ikot muli sa Chinatown hangga’t napalapit kami sa isang kilalang mall doon. Ang pangalan ng kilalang mall na ito ay “Lucky Chinatown,” at doon na rin kami nagpahinga. Mga alas-dos na ng hapon iyon, kaya nagpalamig muna kami. Tinigilan muna namin ang paglalakad, at nakakita ng isang tindahang pangalan ay “Ogawa” na nagbebenta ng iba’t-ibang upuang pangmasahe. Sina Abe, Char, at Kiana ay sumubok ng mga upuang pangmasahe; habang ako naman, dahil sa hiya kong hindi naman kami bibili, ay sinubukan lang ang isa pang kagamitan nila na pangbawas ng timbang siguro. Kumain na rin kami ng ice cream sa “G9 Molecular Ice Cream” upang magpalamig pagkatapos magpahinga sa Ogawa. Habang andoon, pinag-isipan na rin namin ang lugar na sunod naming pupuntahan sa Chinatown.

           Napagdesisyunan naming pumunta sa isang lumang restawran sa Ongpin street ulit. Malayo ang kalye kapag galing sa mall, kaya sinubukan naming sumakay ng tricycle papunta roon. Medyo mas mahal ang mga tricycle doon, isang daan nga ang kabuuan ng aming babayarin pero pumayag na lang kami kaysa mapagod ulit sa paglalakad. Nang papunta na sa restawran, kinausap namin ang drayber ng sasakyan. Tinanong ni Abe kung ano pa ang magandang gawin sa Binondo. Ang sagot lang ni kuya ay kain na ikinagulat ko. ‘Yon nga lang halos lahat ng ginawa namin maliban sa paglalakad.  

           Nakarating kami sa “Sa Lido” restawran na nasa 2nd floor ng isang gusali. Bumili lang kami ng mango sago bawat isa, dahil ang totoong pakay namin ay makakausap ng residente sa Binondo na naroon sa restawran. Laking gulat namin noong tinanong namin ang isang nagtatrabaho roon kung sino puwedeng makausap, ang sagot niya ay ang may-ari ng restawran na nasa isang mesa roon. Habang nag-aantay sa in-order namin, kinausap namin ang may-aring si Arthur King. Tsinoy siya kaya inaasahan kong may pagka-Chinese ang pangalan niya, pero pang-Western pala. Lumaki siya sa Binondo, at ang restawran ay pagmamay-ari talaga ng kanyang lolo nang ginawa iyon noong taong 1945. Ipinasa lang sa kanya. Nabanggit niya ang mga loyal customers doon na ang isa pa nga ay siyamnapu’t dalawa na ang edad. Napansin nga namin na kami lang ang kabataan doon noong oras na iyon. Maliban doon, halos lahat ng customers ay magkakakilala. Tuwing aalis ang isa magpapaalam pa siya sa mga tao sa ibang lamesa. Kami lang ang walang nakakakilala. Pinag-usapan pa ‘ata nila kami habang pinag-uusapan din namin sila. Biro lang naman. Pagkatapos makipag-usap bumalik na kami sa aming lamesa para kainin ang mango sago.

           Natapos ang food trip namin at bumalik na kami sa plaza kung saan kami bumaba noong kakapunta pa lang namin doon. Doon na rin kami nag-antay ng jeep pabalik sa Taft avenue. Pagkarating sa Binondo, kumain kami. Bago naman umalis, kumain ulit kami. Kaya ‘ata kain ang sagot sa amin ng drayber ng tricycle dahil dito madalas nag-uusap ang mga tao, pati na rin sa kanilang mga negosyo. Sa pamamagitan ng pag-usap kay Arthur, mas naintindihan pa namin ang halaga ng pagkain doon. Hindi lang pagkain ang pinupuntahan ng mga tao sa restawran, kundi pati na rin ang mga taong makakasama at makakausap nila doon.

           Bago pumunta sa Binondo, kaba ang aking naramdaman. Kaba dahil sa takot, pati na rin sa tuwa dahil sa paglakwatsa sa bagong lugar para sa akin. Hindi ko inasahang ang mangingibabaw ay katuwaan. Magulo man ang lugar para sa akin, pero ang mga taong aktibo doon ang nagpapabuhay at nagpapaganda sa lugar. Doon nagtapos ang aming paglakbay.

           Sa susunod muli, Binondo.

Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Aaron

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Unang Tapak sa Binondo

 By Ram Bustamante        

Binondo, ang lugar sa Pilipinas na kung saan mas nakahihigit pa ang bilang ng mga Intsik kaysa sa mga Pilipino. Ito nga ang sinasabing Oldest China Town in the World at ito ang patuloy na ipinagmamalaki ng turismo para sa lugar. Hindi ba’t nakapagtataka na kung sino pa ang siyang nais magkamkam ng ating lupain ay ang atin namang pinapahalagahan? Nakakatawa lang isipin na sa kabila ng katagang “Oldest China Town” ay ipinapahiwatig na matagal na rin nating ipinapamahagi ang sariling atin. Ito ang mga kaisipang bumabagabag sa akin tuwing nababanggit ang lugar na ito lalo na’t napapanahon ang pulitikal na bangayan ng dalawang bansa. Ngunit sa kabila ng lahat ng ito, nananatili pa rin akong interesado at namamangha sa kulturang pinanghahawakan ng China. Noong bata pa ako, kapag naririnig ko ang Chinatown, naiisip ko agad ang Great Wall of China at inakalang napapalibutan ang Binondo ng mga naglalakihang pader na prinoprotektahan ang buong lugar. Naipipinta ko rin sa aking isipan ang mga naggagandahang pulang palasyo at ang mga natatanging arkitektura na tanyag lamang sa China. Bilang isang estudyanteng mahilig mag-aral ng iba’t-ibang kultura, isang kasiyahan at interes ang makapunta dito. At sa aking unang pagkakataon, nabisita ko ang Binondo kasama ng aking mga kaibigan na sina Stephanie, Renee, Faith, Ingrid at Angelo at nasaksihan ko ang kalagayan ng buong lugar at ng mga taong namumuhay rito.

Ang Binondo ay hindi tulad ng ibang mga pook pasyalan sa Pilipinas. Hindi naman siya ganoong ka-moderno tulad ng Bonifacio Global City o BGC. Hindi naman kasing ganda ng mga arkitektura ng Intramuros ang mga naglulumang gusali rito. At halos wala namang iconic na landmark na pwedeng balik-balikan mo araw-araw. Mistulang patay na lungsod ang buong lugar na sa unang tingin pa lang ay hindi na siya karaniwang madadayuhan ng isang turista. Para siyang nakakalbo nang puno at dinesenyuhan lang ng mga banderitas at mga lanterns para magmukhang buhay. Tila resulta ng isang desisyon na hindi makonklusyonan at pinili na lang kung ano ang mas madali. Ito ay isang lugar na napagiwanan na ng makabagong urbanisasyon ngunit naka-ankla at naipit pa rin sa matagal nang kasaysayan. Ngunit, bilang isang first timer sa Binondo, masasabi ko na ang mga katangiang ito ang siyang mas nagpapaganda pa sa Binondo.

  Hatid ng sasakyan ng Daddy ni Steph, sabay kaming pumunta sa Binondo. Sa katunayan, sobrang na-excite ako dahil masasaksihan ko na rin sa wakas ang mga lugar na nakikita ko lamang sa mga imahe sa loob ng mga text books ko sa Araling Panlipunan. Tuwang-tuwa ako na nakadaan ako sa napakasikat na Jones Bridge na ang siyang tulay na dumudugtong sa dalawang Maynila na ibang-iba ang kultura. Ito ang tulay na dinadaanan ng karosa ng Mahal na Nazareno at sa TV ko lang siya nakikita. Habang dumadaan kami rito, naiisip ko rin ang mga mitong bumabalot sa paggawa ng Jones Bridge kung saan, ayon sa sabi-sabi, ginawa raw sa halo ng semento at dugo ng mga batang pinaslang noon pa upang maipagtibay at gawing mas matatag. Pagtawid ng Jones Bridge, masasaksihan na ang napakalaking arko na maikukumpara sa isang napakalaking entrance sa mga pantasya. Ito ang tinaguriang World’s Largest Chinatown Arch sa buong mundo at nagsisilbing atraksyon o popular na landmark sa lugar. Nang makadaan na kami sa arko, mas lalong nabuhayan at na-excite ako at pakiramdam ko na nagtransport na kami papuntang China. Ngunit ilang minuto lang ang makalipas, huminto at tumigil ang umaandar na kotse. May trapik. Na-realize ko agad na nasa Pilipinas pa rin talaga kami.

Ngunit may silbi rin pala ang traffic. Dahil dito, nakapagmasid-masid ako sa mga building sa kalye ng Quintin Paredes Road. Mapapansin mo ang mga naglulumang gusali na may disenyo ng mga antigong Chinese na arkitektura na inabandona katabi ng mga bangko at mga branded na shops. Halos pantay-pantay ang tangkad ng mga buildings ngunit hindi sila magkakamukha; magkahalo ang luma at mga moderno. Tulad ng ibang lugar sa Maynila, kapansin-pansin ang mga cable lines sa itaas na buhol-buhol na nakalambitin sa mga poste. Ngunit namumukod tangi ang mga linyang ito kumpara sa ibang mga linya sa Kamaynilaan. Mayroon itong designs! Kahilera ng mga cable at electrical lines ay ang mga pulang Chinese lanterns na mistulang nagpapakulay sa buhol-buhol at magulong mga linya. Pagtingin ko naman sa baba may kasabay pala kaming kalesang naipit din sa gitna ng traffic na nakikisabay sa mga jeep. Sa nasaksihan kong iyon nakita ko ang ebolusyon ng teknolohiya mula sa isang kalesa, sa mga jeep at sa mga makabagong mga kotse. Nang makarating kami sa dulo ng kalye, bubungad sa'yo ang napakalaking pulang simbahan na kung tawagin ay Binondo Church na ang totoong pangalan pala ay Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. Tinuro ng tatay ni Steph ang simbahan at sinabing, “Dito kami nagpakasal ng mama mo Shobe” (shobe ang tawag sa bunsong kapatid na babae). Naisip ko kaagad na, kapag Chinese na Katoliko kailangan bang ipakasal sa Binondo Church? Pero hindi ko na naitanong iyon. Nilagpasan lang namin ang simbahan at dumiretso sa Lucky Chinatown Mall para mag-park ng kotse. Pagpasok sa loob ng mall, unang maririnig ay ang mga upbeat na Chinese songs na pinapatugtog sa bawat sulok ng palapag. Nag-CR muna kami sa bago tumungo sa aming pupuntahan. Maging sa CR abot ang Chinese na kanta at napasayaw pa ako ng kaunti habang umiihi. Hindi na kami nanatali sa loob ng mall sapagkat hindi ito ang aming pakay na puntahan.

 Una sa aming listahan ay ang Seng Guan Temple na walking distance lamang mula sa Lucky Chinatown Mall. Dinaan kami ng daddy ni Steph sa isang shortcut na dadaan sa isang napakalaking storage o ang kanilang tawag ay “ang bodega”. Mas mahaba raw ang lalakarin kapag sinundan mo ang kalye ng Reina Regente. Pagpasok dito, para siyang lugar na pwedeng eksena sa pelikula na pwedeng maganap ang mga barilan o madudugong eksena. Hindi ako mapakali dahil may awra ng panganib na ibinibigay ang lugar na iyon. May mga kargador na nakatambay lang at tinititigan kami habang dumadaan na para bang alam nilang dayuhan kami sa bodegang iyon. Paglabas sa bodega, matatanaw ang Tutuban Center sa bandang kaliwa at nakapaligid dito ang mga naglulumang Chinese na bahay na napakaganda ngunit hindi na naaalagaan. Tinawid namin ang Recto Avenue at dumaan sa kalye ng Narra kung saan dulo pa lang ng kalye ay matatanaw na ang dilaw at patulis na tower ng templo. Sakop ng templo ang magkabilaang building na ang pumapagitan ay ang kalye. Dinudugtong ng dalawang building na ito ay isang bridge na kung saan dinesenyuhan ng one way window ang mga bintana nito. Ang isang building ay isang pribadong commercialized building at ang isa naman ay ang mismong dilaw at malaking templo. Pagpasok sa Seng Guan Temple, maihahalintulad mo siya sa isang Katolikong simbahan ngunit si Buddha ang nasa may altar at hindi mga upuan ang makikita mo kundi ang mga luhuran na agad. Puro matatandang Intsik ang mga pumapasok at pinagtinginan pa kami dahil alam agad nila na hindi kami tiga-doon. Daliang kumuha ng insenso si Steph at ang kanyang daddy upang sumamba. Nataranta ako dahil hindi ko alam kung ano ang gagawin ko. Magdadasal rin ba ako o tatayo na lang sa gilid? Baka kasi makabastos pa ako sa kanilang kultura. Pero nagulat ako nang niyaya ako ni tito na maginsenso rin at magsamba. Kaya't kumuha ako ng dalawang stick, sinindihan at lumuhod para magdasal. Sinabi ko, “Lord, sana makapasa ako sa UP”. At pagtapos ng dasal, namalayan kong hindi na maririnig ang aking panalangin. Sa medicine buddha pala ako nagdasal at natawag ko pa siyang Lord. Hindi ko naman alam na may iba’t ibang buddha pala ang aalayan ng dasal. Kahit na nagkamali ako nang pamamaraan sa pagsamba, hindi ko ito pinaglaruan at binastos ‘pagkat pananampalataya nila ito.

 Matapos magpunta sa templo, bumalik na kami sa Lucky Chinatown upang kitain sina Renee at Faith na sabay ring pumunta sa Binondo. Hindi na kami sinamahan ng tatay ni Steph pamuhat nito. Bago magtungo sa susunod na destinasyon, nagpahinga at kumain muna kami ng pananghalian. Sa kalye ng Norberto Ty, katabi ng Binondo Church, pinuntahan namin ang maliit na restawran na Tasty Dumplings. Sabi ni Steph sulit ang porkchop at syempre ang dumplings nila kaya’t dito kami nagtungo. Maliit at kaunti lamang ang mga mesa para sa customers. Swerte raw kami dahil kadalasan, lalo na tuwing oras ng pananghalian, napupuno ito. Ang kanilang Porkchop Rice ay nasa 160 pesos at ang Original Dumplings at Kuchay Dumplings (may gulay sa loob ng dumplings) ay nasa 120 pesos na kung saan anim na pirasong dumplings ang ihahain kad order. Nakatutuwang makita na ang presyo ng pagkain ay umaayon sa servings. Malalaki ang kanilang ulam at masarap pa. Nang maihain na ang pagkain, hindi ko na mapigilan ang lumapang. Sa katunayan ‘di ko na napansin ang kaibahan ng dalawang dumplings na inorder namin ‘pagkat ‘di ko mapigilan ang kumain sa gutom. Tila halos parehong pork lang ang laman. Pinaghatian namin ang mga pagkain para hindi kami mabusog agad. Naramdaman naming walang awatang paggastos sa pagkain ang mangyayari sa buong trip.

 Pagtapos naman nito, pinuntahan na namin ang tanyag na Ongpin kung saan naroon ang karaniwang go-to place ng mga dumadayo sa Binondo, ang Eng Bee Tin. Napakamoderno at tila high class ang buong building. Makikitang ito ang pinakamataas na building sa hilera ng kalye ng Ongpin. Ito ay may hightech na sliding door at pagpasok bubungad ang dalawang dragon na nakalambitin sa itaas ng entrance. Ang isa ay kulay lila at ang isa naman ay dilaw. Punong-puno ng ilaw ang bawat sulok ng mistulang grocery ng Eng Bee Tin. Moderno ang arkitektura sa loob at dinesenyuhan ng mga salamin ang mga pader. Napakaraming tao ang tumitingin sa mga paninda, mapa-Chinese man o Pilipino. Nariyan ang mga iba’t-ibang klase ng hopia, tikoy, mochi at iba pang Chinese desserts. Bumili ako ng Ube Hopia na 54 pesos pagkat ito ang paborito ng aking nanay. Habang tinitingnan ang mga binebenta, hindi ko na namalayang kinakanta ko na ang “Di ka mabibitin sa Eeeng Bee Tin!”, ang kanilang jingle na siyang paulit-ulit na pinapatugtog sa loob ng building. Bumili rin kami ng Milk Tea sa katabing tindahan ng Eng Bee Tin. Masarap ang kanilang Red Thai Milk Tea at nasa 90 pesos lang ang large nito.

 Nakipagkita kami kay Ingrid na kasama ang tatay niya matapos ang pagtitigin sa bentahan sa Eng Bee Tin. Sinamahan namin siyang pumunta sa Lido, isang restawran (ulit) na kung saan tatay niya ang nagsusuplay ng mga karne rito. Tago ang restawran na ito dahil kailangan pang umakyat sa ikalawang palapag ng isang Chandelier store para makita at makapunta rito. Hindi agad ito kapansin-pansin. Pagpasok sa restawran halos lahat ng customer ay matatanda na at grupo-grupo silang nagpapahinga rito. Maging sina Erap at Lim ay dumadayo rito ‘pagkat nakapaskil sa kanilang pader ang picture na nakaframe na may kasama pang signature nila bungad ng restawran. Nagmasid lang kami sa interior ng kainan habang kinakausap ng tatay ni Ingrid ang mga waiter at chef ng Lido. Para akong nakatingin sa nakaraan at pinagmamasdan ang mga alaaala ng mga customer doon. Naramdaman ko na siguro’y noong kabataan pa nilang kaugalian ang pumunta at kumain rito sa Lido. Maging ang interior ng restawran ay hindi nagbago, may kakintalan pa rin siyang maka-60s dahil sa tiles nitong disenyo. O siguro naman sadyang napakakomportable lang tumambay at magpahinga rito dahil na rin payapa at malayo sa ingay ng mga tao sa ibaba ng kalye ng Ongpin. Nais sana naming kumain at tikman ang pagkain rito ngunit medyo busog pa kami.

 Habang naglalakad sa kahabaan ng Ongpin, napadaan kami sa isang Chinese Mall. Napansin naming may ikalawang palapag ito at inakala naming parte pa rin siya ng grocery. Para maiba naman ang aming nakikita bukod sa mga feng shui, relo, alahas at mga lampara, naisipan naming pumasok rito. Ito ang In Time Supermarket. Pag-akyat namin sa 2nd floor, mukha siyang sosyal na ukay-ukay dahil samu’t sari ang mga paninda rito. Mukha siyang mall pero mukha rin siyang hotel lobby dahil sa mga Chandelier na nakalambitin Pumasok kami sa isang tindahan ng mga damit. Tulad ng sinabi ko, para siyang ukay-ukay ngunit sobrang hindi halata ang pagiging “low quality” ng mga damit dito. Tuwang-tuwa kaming makita ang mga naggagandahang damit na dinaig pa ang damitan sa K-Pop. May mga sweaters, hoodies, crop-tops, skirt, leather boots at madami pa. Hinawak-hawakan na namin at ipinatong sa aming dibdib ang mga shirt kung maganda ba at kung bagay ang mga damit. Nang magtanong na kami kung magkano ang mga ito, “Ahh 4k po sir.” Gawa pa ata sa ginto mula sa Tsina ang mga ito. Nagtinginan kaming magkakaibigan at ibinalik nang maayos ang mga damit at umalis nang mabagal sa store at sinabing “Babalikan na lang po namin.”

 Pamuhat ng paglalakad namin sa Ongpin, hindi matapos-tapos ang aming food trip at pumunta naman sa panibagong restawran na tinatawag na Cafe Mezzanine. Dito sikat ang kanilang Xiao Long Bao na kung saan ito ay mga dumplings na maliban sa pork, may sabaw pa sa loob na sumasabog sa bibig pagkinagat at nginuya na. Nakipagkita sa amin si Angelo rito at humabol pa para makakain ng dimsum na ito. Ang Cafe Mezzanine ay matatagpuan sa Ongpin malapit sa Eng Bee Tin. Sa ibaba nito ang kainan mismo na mistulang karinderia dahil walang aircon at open area lang ito. Kulay dilaw ang interior at tulad ng Lido, may tiles ang disenyo niyo. Dahil wala na kaming maupuan, umakyat kami sa ikalawang palapag nito. Nakapagtataka sapagkat ang 2nd floor ay naka-aircon at mas moderno ang disenyo. Ito naman ay pinaiilawan ng lila na ilaw at halos nasa Cafe talaga kami. Nag-order kami ng dalawang serving ng Xiao Long Bao na may sampung piraso kada order at pinaghati-hatian namin ito. Ang isang order ay nasa 180 pesos at masasabi kong napaka-sulit ang kumain rito.  

 Habang nakaupo at kumakain kasama ng aking mga kaibigan, napahinto ako at napatulala sa isipan na, napakasaya maranasan ang mga bagong pangyayari na ito kasama ang mga kaibigan ko. Baka ito nga ang kakintalang matatagpuan sa bawat lugar na mapupuntahan mo. Ang makabuo ng mga bagong memorya ay ang mas makakapagbigay ng magandang kwento sa lugar na iyon. Nang maubos na namin ang mga dimsum, sabay-sabay na kaming nagsi-alisan at namaalam. Iyon na pala ang ikahuling destinasyon namin sa pag-iikot sa Binondo. Nang makasakay na ako sa LRT, hindi ko mapigilang lingunin ang Binondo at dayuhin pa nang mas detalyado ang mga eskinita roon. Tumatak sa aking isipan ang malaking kaibahan ng Binondo sa ibang lugar sa Maynila. Siguro dala na rin ng hilig ko sa kultura ng iba, nag-iwan ng marka sa akin ang distrito. Pakiramdam ko na nanggaling ako sa ibang bansa ngunit nasa loob pa rin ng Pilipinas. Sa naghahalong makabago at naglulumang arkitektura ng Chinese at ng modernong mundo, maging sa mga taong bumubuo sa kulturang ito. Masasabi ko na halos patay ang buong arkitektura ng distrito ngunit ang mga taong naghahanapbuhay sa mga kalye ang siyang nagbibigay kulay rito. Ang pagtagpo ng kakaibang pamumuhay ng mga Chinese at Pilipino ang siyang nagbigay kahalagahan at kakintalan sa lugar na ito. Ang dalawang bansang halos hindi nakakaintindihan sa usaping pulitkal ay dito nagkakatagpo’t napapayapa. Ngunit kung uusisain at kung bubuksan natin ang ating mga mata, hindi lahat ng buhay rito ay nabibigyan ng pantay-pantay na halaga. Kadalasan sa aking na-obserbahan, ang mga Chinese ay ang mga may-ari ng mga tindahan at ang mga Pilipino naman ang mga manggagawa, kargador at mga nagtitinda’t naglalako. Kung hindi naman nagtitinda, naglilimos. Tila isang naging salamin na ang mga dayuhan ay nananatiling mayaman at tayong mga Pilipino ang nasa ibaba. Punong-puno ng kontras ang buong Binondo at sabay ng unang mga pagtapak ko rito ay ang pagsabong ng mga madaming emosyong nararamadaman ko para sa buhay ng mga tao rito at sa kasiyahang nadama ko kasama ang mga kaibigan ko.

 Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Ram

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Liminal: The Binondo Phenomenon

By Charlene Enriquez

There’s always that weird in-between period in your life; like being a teenager, when you’re transitioning from child to adult. You realize that you don’t quite fit in your local playground, the swings are a bit too small or the seesaw too close to the ground -- but you also can’t enjoy recreational adult spaces like bars because you don’t quite fit in that scene also. It seems like the strings that guided you to act a certain way was abruptly cut off, and you must re-learn how to act again. This limbo is called a “liminal space”, a concept of “crossing over”, creating the feeling of having left something behind but you are not fully in something else. If you convert that phenomenon into a place, it would definitely be Ongpin, Binondo. It’s a confused mishmash of distinctly Chinese memorabilia shadowed by a flurry of Filipino conceptions.

Chinese red lanterns are strung all over the place, Chinese characters are present in signs and logos of establishments, and shops sell unique products of herbal medicine with inscrutable Chinese instructions. This is undercut by a huge Catholic cathedral where hundreds of Filipinos attend mass weekly, a number of eateries which sell Filipino viands and desserts, and vendors who sell fruits from our islands. The population is composed of Filipino-Chinese citizens -- Chinese-looking with accented Filipino tongues yet still know the ins and outs of Manila like the back of their hand. Of course, not everyone in the area is Fil-Chi; the people in the community have a huge number of Filipinos who aren’t distinctly mixed with Chinese blood. The whole place looked like a collision of two worlds -- like it doesn’t really know what it wants to be and it just happened to evolve into this creature of coalescing cultures.

We travelled to Ongpin on a jeep in a group of four. It was midday when we went down in front of Binondo Church, also known as the Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. The area near its entrance was occupied by people in poverty: an old man with welts on his face asking for alms and a mother coaxing her three small kids playing with coins and sticks. The inside of the church was a stark contrast to the outside. Inside was a huge cavern, with a high ceiling supported by tall posts, creating wide arches. Images of heavenly glory covered the ceilings, atop the multi-colored metal chandeliers. A different kind of poverty permeated the people inside -- young and old men and women kneeling in fervent prayer by the pews, some standing by the Nazareno icon, others in line at the candle-lighting area to pray for their intentions. After saying our prayers, we took our exit to finally embark on our Binondo adventure. On the left and right of the Church were streets snaking into Chinatown behind it. Unsuspecting vehicles zipped past the Church, unaware of the hidden world behind it. We started our journey by entering the street at the Church’s right side, Ongpin St.

 Our first stop was the Dragon Phoenix Enterprise, a shop selling an assortment of charms, gemstones, and golden statues of army generals, gods, and dragons. The pathway to the entrance was cluttered by figurines, Feng Shui books, and charms dangling by the doorway. The inside was even more stocked: with shelves after shelves of these goods. On the walls were calendars listing the different years of the Chinese Zodiac, with information on how one’s animal sign affects the wealth, relationships, and overall luck this 2019 Year of the Pig. Beside the glass case of gemstone jewelry were paragraphs explaining the “powers” of the gemstones -- bracelets that give good luck when gambling, enhance fertility or protect the wearer from danger. All in all, the shop was swarming with these items, leaving frustratingly narrow aisles in between shelves. We had to line up and enter the aisles one by one to get a proper look around. We also had to be very mindful of the space we take up, with figurines one elbow nudge away from tipping over the entire store. This shop aiming to sell Feng Shui-approved items was ironically cluttered, had dim lighting, and generally left no space for good luck to roam in -- an affront to Feng Shui principles. Maybe that’s the appeal of the place; that it doesn’t pretend to be the paragon of spiritual enlightenment, but still does enough to show it knows some things. A perfect in-between of the temporal and spiritual world. It doesn’t know whether it’s a treasure chest of good luck and prosperity or a stockpile of make-believe magical items. (Or maybe it knows but doesn’t really care.)  

 Exiting the shop, we were hit by the blazing noon sun, signalling the height of lunchtime. Relieved to finally be free from that cramped shop, we roamed around the dizzying streets of Ongpin that had restaurants everywhere. After being paralyzed by the amount of choices, we finally settled with Estero Fast Food, a karinderya right next to -- you guessed it -- an estero or canal. A short stairway led into a sort-of tunnel which housed a few eateries. Despite the dull concrete floors and, frankly, disgusting environment (I mean, it was right next to a canal…), it was surprisingly not unappetizing. A chain-link fence separated the canal from the area, and strung on the fence were potted plants. There was no smell either and the store booths obscured the view of the canal. The Estero booth displayed assorted raw meat on bowls: chicken, pork, beef, even salmon. The menu was expansive and more importantly, the prices were student-friendly! We ended up ordering salt and pepper chicken, beef with broccoli, shrimp with oyster sauce, and yang chow rice. The four of us only spent a little less than 200 pesos each for all that! The servings were huge enough for all of us (there were even leftovers), the meat soft and bursting with flavor. It was a hearty meal straddling the line between Filipino and Chinese karinderya cuisine, eliciting a full and cozy stomach.

 A meal is not complete without dessert, and so we went on the hunt for Ongpin’s trademark mango sago. We asked two restaurants if they had it, only to be disappointed that there was none. We trudged on under the heat until we finally saw the famous Salido Restaurant! We excitedly hurried to the second floor where it was nestled and encountered creaky wooden steps and dim overhead lighting as if we were entering an abandoned place. The interior was quite old-looking. A tiled bar counter straight from the 80s, a supposedly white floor that’s now yellow due to age, and chipped wooden round tables taking up majority of the spacious restaurant. The aircon was broken, plus the TV and speakers seemed like they’ve been unused for a long time. At first glance, everything seemed drab because the slight yellowish tint in the lighting covered the place with a nostalgic sepia glow. The windows were tiny and few, so it was hard to tell what time of the day it was. It felt like a place your grandparents would describe as their hangout spot; like it was stuck in the past, withering away but still alive.

 Interestingly, the store was filled with balding old men with their wives and a few adults (perhaps their children); we were the only young people in the shop. Most tables were exclusively old men. They were eating light meals with tea or coffee, conversing with each other. Maybe they were talking about their businesses or their grandchildren or the old days. (Old people love talking about that.) In contrast, the waiters and staff were pretty young and had smiles on their faces. Once our mango sago arrived, we asked the lady waiting on us about the history of Salido and she pointed us to the corner of the restaurant where an adult man was sitting alone, his framed eyes keenly trained on his phone. He apparently owned the place. He looked a bit intimidating, seemingly busy with his brows knit together. The lady just laughed and told us he’s kind. We gulped down the mango juice and sago. Truthfully, it was less sweet than I expected but that was probably because a lot of customers are old people. Afterwards, we approached the owner and introduced ourselves. He made us sit at his table and he was pretty warm towards us, letting go of his iPhone X once we joined him. His name was Arthur King, and he gave each of us his calling card as an introduction. He spoke to us in Filipino, with a lightly noticeable Chinese accent. He wasn’t that old; probably in his fifties. Once we’ve settled down, he jokingly asked if we were from the BIR asking about sales. We assured him we weren’t and proceeded to ask about his store and the history surrounding it. He launched the story of how his lolo set up Salido, originally a small turo-turo karinderya which eventually expanded into a restaurant. After World War 2 damaged his karinderya, it was rebuilt in the place where it stands now and continued to flourish, staying strong until today. Once we asked about his customers, he leaned forward and started to excitedly point at different people in the shop. “Ayan, may-ari siya ng Ace Hardware at ka-batch ko dati sa school. ‘Yung nandoon sa likod na natutulog? Jusko, lagi ‘yang nandito noong bata yan! Tumatambay at naglalasing dito hanggang gabi at may dala-dalang mga girlfriend!” He knew almost everyone and excitedly recounted each one’s story to us. He even bragged about Erap and Atienza being regulars as well, advising us to come by every Sunday if we wished to see them. Salido was indeed a place of the past stuck in the present. Arthur King and his friends (his knights at Salido’s round tables) willfully stuck around in the limbo of Salido, enjoying the last reminders of their young days with their old friends.

We left the store and saw that it was almost 4 in the afternoon. Time goes by faster when you’re in Binondo, I guess. We found our way through the labyrinth of streets, and finally found ourselves back at Binondo Church; this time, emerging from the opposite side of where we entered, the left-side Norberto Ty St. We went full circle and now we were back to the regular view of zipping jeepneys and fast-paced walkers, consumed by concerns of the present. Binondo gave us a needed break as we explored the mysterious behemoth of in-betweens. The in-betweens of Filipino and Chinese cuisine, of the spiritual and temporal world, and of the past and present. Different places with different purposes, but all under the same Binondo phenomenon. Visiting the places, it is evident that it doesn’t quite fit in both Filipino and Chinese cultures -- it’s like you left Manila but you’re not fully in China. Lost souls are sure to find a place amidst the dysphoric Binondo (and only for a few bucks).

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Recollections of a Warm Day in Binondo

By Abraham Diaz

Under the sweltering heat of the midday sun; wearing a thick bright yellow pull-over sweater in Binondo might not have been the best decision to make. After all, with the hustle and bustle of street merchants along with old Chinese men wearing nothing but white Sandos, prove that even the local residents of Binondo notice the warmth of the urban jungle they dwell in.

More than the humid air that permeated all throughout the vicinity, there was a sense of warmth that entered my heart as I walked the hallowed streets of Ongpin. Growing up, my parents would frequently go to Binondo. I’d either accompany my mother for business related activities, or we’d visit my father’s Chinese relatives. Regardless, the outcome was the same; I would get to explore the labyrinth of China town, and feast on scrumptious Chinese food.

For me, walking around these streets is like walking back in time; I see old buildings, and familiar stores we’d frequent long ago, juxtaposed by a skyline filed with the progression of unfamiliar new developments such as high-rise condominiums and strip malls. As cliché as it might sound, Binondo truly is a melting pot of culture — a hodgepodge of relics from a nostalgic past, and new surprises presented by a  progressive future. Like my trips here during my younger years, I’m eager to get into the heat of the action.  

My friends and I started our journey by looking for the best way to reach Binondo. We asked a security guard working in a condo around Taft for directions, and he told us that the best way to reach China town was via Jeepney. While we considered taking the LRT or UV vans, given the tropic afternoon heat, we went with riding the Jeepney, One, because it was one straight ride to Binondo. Two, it was the cheapest commute. Being broke-ass senior high school students, we already knew we were going to burn a hole through our wallets with our China town adventure, so we chose the most efficient form of transportation.    

Cruising down Jones’ bridge after a short Jeepney commute through Manila, we were greeted by the iconic Filipino-Chinese friendship arc that welcomes you to Binondo. Immediately we noticed the Chinese letterings that garnished the façade of establishments and institutions. Food stalls, medicine shops, and fruit vendors were sporadically seen all throughout the area. Despite the seemingly topsy-turvy state of disarray that was evident in China town, there was a chaotic order to things. Where seemingly foreign concepts coexist with one another; A Catholic church meters away from a Buddhist temple, a traditional Chinese medicine shop that sold herbs, and crystals as cures to debilitating disease right beside Mercury drug store, and a vegetarian restaurant adjacent to a Peking duck stall that slaughtered fowls daily. For the average reasonable person, Binondo might be jarring and overwhelming, but these quirks lead to warm encounters that are truly memorable.

We definitely didn’t expect to find mouthwatering food right beside a river of sewage and garbage. Running on a limited budget, we asked around where we could find authentic Chinese food at good prices. People pointed us towards a place called Estero, an alley filled with Chinese food stalls and restaurants right beside a creek. The stench from the murky waters of the Pasig River didn’t aid in selling the idea that this was a place that sold appetizing meals. Regardless, we were persistent to try what these hole-in-the-wall food stalls had to offer despite the unorthodox ambiance.

           The waitress of Estero fast food ushered us to their air-conditioned dining room that shielded us from the elements of the creek. The room was small and covered in bright pink linoleum; they had sparse décor, and we ordered from a laminated menu. We decided to get Spicy chili prawns, Yang chow rice, beef broccoli, and fried spareribs. While we were waiting for our food, they gave us complimentary tea; it was hot and soothing, but it lacked flavor. One of my friends commented how it tasted like warm tap water.

           When the food arrived, we were surprised by the large portions, considering how we ordered medium platters for all the dishes. We expected that it would suffice for four people; evidently the food could have fed six people easily. The food tasted alright, it wasn’t anything mind blowing, but it was enough for our group to lick the plates clean. My favorite dish was the Chili prawn, given how it was sweet and savory with the right amount of spice. The shells were soft and easy to take off, and the meat was well cooked. The spareribs were a close contender, with how soft and crunchy they were, it had massive portions, so much so that we had a bunch left over, even after gorging ourselves full.  My least favorite was the beef broccoli. It was bland and chewy, and I didn’t go for a second portion after tasting it. Overall, the food in Estero was acceptable, what they lacked in overall taste was offset by their huge portions, considering that the four of us each spent less than 180 Pesos , the amount of food we got was ridiculous.

           We continued our adventure through Binondo by exploring the various streets that encompass the district. We passed by a shop called Dragon Phoenix enterprise, a store that sold Chinese trinkets and knick-knacks that helped promote good fortune. Large Jade crystals and Statues of Buddha stood throughout the store, some costing hundreds to thousands of Pesos. A store clerk told us about the Bagua, a Feng Shui symbol in the shape of an octagon with a mirror in the middle; it represented the eight fundamental principles of Taoist – Cosmology, and was a source of good fortune. Looking into the beautiful Baguas we asked the clerk if staring into the mirror caused death like in Kris Aquino’s block buster film Feng Shui. Much to our relief, he reassured us that only good fortune comes from their products.

As we got deeper and deeper into the belly of China town, we noticed the various shops spread all throughout: stores that sold stationaries, shops that stocked Hello kitty toys, and hardware stores ran by old Chinese men. The heat of the mid-day sun forced us to loiter in shops with air-conditioning. With that, we decided to look for refreshments, we settled on some Mango Sago from the famous Salido restaurant. Salido was back in Ongpin while we were already on the opposite side of the district near Reina Regente Street; exhausted, we decided to hail a Pedicab to take us there. The drivers offered to take us for 200 pesos, I haggled with him, and eventually he agreed to take us for half the amount. The Pedicab ride was long and traffic laden, the tight streets of Binondo favored legs over wheels, eventually we arrived at Salido’s and realized that we had already passed the restaurant when we arrived at Binondo earlier that day.

Salido’s had an unassuming façade that you wouldn’t find unless you were actively searching for it. Its small entrance led to a diner-esque café on the second floor that felt like taking back a step in time. Right from the get go, you could see that not only was the building itself vintage, but the majority of its patrons could pass off as terracotta warriors if you didn’t know better.  

We were served warm tea as we were waiting for our mango sago, and we asked the waitress if we could get an interview with a local resident. The waitress pointed towards the very corner of the restaurant, where her boss sat and read his newspaper. At first we were intimidated by his appearance, because he looked like a brooding Dragon who didn’t want to get bothered, but she assured us that he was a big softie more akin to a Panda bear. The owner’s name was King Arthur, a name fitting for a man who owned a restaurant filled with round tables. King Arthur grew up in Binondo, managing Salido’s as it was passed down from his grandfather, the original owner of the restaurant. He recounted how their restaurant started as a karinderya or a turo-turo, before it was destroyed during the bombing of Manila in the course of World War II. Despite the adversities faced by Arthur’s family, they continued to persevere and as Binondo prospered so did their eatery; transitioning from a wooden structure to a one made of cement. King Arthur told us about his various patrons— Manila Mayor’s such as Erap and Atienza would frequent the shop every Sunday; the old Terracotta warrior-esque men on the other side of the room were his childhood friends, He told us that the bald 92 year old Chinese man adjacent to us was a drunkard and a ladies' man, but was also the owner of Ace Hardware in the Philippines.

As the warm rays of the dusk strike my neck as I ride a Jeepney back to Taft the lingering heat of Chinatown, leaves a mark not only on my skin, bit on my soul. Much like the hot tea and weather in Binondo, there is layer of warmth for the history and culture that is present in the area. The tinge of red lanterns, the smell of oriental spices, and the various hidden gems spread all throughout the area, add character to a place that has been the focal point for various lifestyles. Only in Manila’s Chinatown can you see Spanish architecture, Chinese traditions, and Filipino people seamlessly intermingling with one another. When worlds collide, you expect there to be friction. However, the friction and heat present in Binondo creates a cultural energy unlike any other. Although I regret wearing my thick bright yellow pull-over sweater during our China town adventures, I will never forget the warmth of Binondo, and the heat it has kindled in my heart.

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Receipts of Binondo

By Ingrid Deldgado

When I was a child, I used to spend my nights helping my father in his home office just a floor below our family bedroom. Night after night, I would pull out handwritten receipts, all crumpled and stained with blood, from his old Seiko wallet and read it aloud to him. These receipts were from the meat supply business my family that has been passing on since my great grandfather started the business almost a hundred years ago. I would always goggle at these tiny scraps of paper, trying to decipher my father’s unique handwriting, as they lay carelessly scattered around the house. It didn’t take too long for me to recognize each scrawled word and memorize certain institutions that regularly appeared in the address line. The names Ha Yuan, Toho, and Sa Lido in particular remained stuck in my head because I always found them funny when reading out loud. It wasn’t until recently did I found out that Ha Yuan, Toho, and Sa Lido were not just names of old Chinese businessmen. It was, as a matter of fact, Chinese restaurants named after the old Chinese businessmen (close enough, though) along the business districts of Binondo.

 As someone born and raised in Manila, the Binondo district wasn’t a stranger in my stream of consciousness. For one, I’ve known it as the birthplace of my former school’s Mother Foundress (Venerable Ignacia of the Religious of the Virgin Mary, potentially the first Filipina saint if her canonization pushes through). It was also my parents’ go-to place for furniture needs (a nice Chandelier? Soler Street has tons; new sofa? T. Pinpin has an array; plumbing needs? Sta. Elena has a gallery of toilets). And of course, I have always known it as a delivery hotspot for my father’s pork and meat supply.

When the task of finally visiting Binondo personally came at hand, my father was naturally the first person that came into my mind. It seemed that he was just as enthused at the idea as I was because he didn’t just allow me to be dropped off but also had an itinerary in mind. The day was going to be our date as we both explored the hidden charms of the old business district.

Amidst the blinding sun of high noon, my father and I rode a single motorcycle to – in his words – give me an “immersive experience” of the bustling city. Scooped up in my father’s back, I was not protected from the stench of the esteros nor from the deafening shrieks of cars parading along Ongpin Street. Of the things I wasn’t shielded from was also the pulse of the streets’ energy as people hurriedly cross from one street to the next and sidewalk vendors call out for their next customers. Binondo’s streets boast of colors against the polluted Manila skylines, with red lanterns and Feng Shui hangings hovering overhead the idle traffic and tiny shops selling colorful treats tucked in narrow eskenitas. Though Chinese New Year had well passed, traces of the celebration still loomed in the side streets. Piles of Tikoy were still on display, as were the lucky charms and crystals that blessed the streets of Binondo.

First in my Dad’s agenda was lunch at the old Toho restaurant. Toho is the home of my favorite Spicy Squid, a dish unique to Toho as it was adapted from visiting an Indonesian local’s recipe that was shared to the family owner. It married the rich taste of ginger with 3 types of bell peppers and large squids, breaded and spiced with their “secret recipe”, and sautéed in garlic, butter, and atsuete oil. There wasn’t anything grand about the restaurant aside from the fact that it was one of the oldest restaurants still standing in Binondo. As a matter of fact, it looked more like an eatery than a proper restaurant per se with its scratched walls, worn out light fixtures, and darkened tiles. Of course, I was too polite to say these while the restaurant’s current owner, Mr. Al Wong, was with us during our visit. Surprisingly, however, he shared the same sentiments as mine. He spoke of his disappointments on the gradual decline of the restaurant that he had been with his family for more than seven decades. He lamented on the fact that every day, he only sa the same faces eating at his diner. He referred to the group behind our table as the same construction workers and laborers who routinely spend their hour-long breaks drinking cheap beer and eating warm Asado as pulutan. I listened closely as he talked to my father about renovating the space, saying that he was in talks with the architect of Mary Grace Cafes in hopes of modernizing the restaurant into something millennials could enjoy and rave about, maybe even get it trending online.

           After a hearty lunch, he allowed me to take a look at the exclusive kitchen where the magic happens. The place itself wasn’t as magical since it looked even older from the inside. What – or who, rather – left me enchanted were the people working inside. I met Mang Ben, an elderly cook of the kitchen, who specializes in their trademark Pork Asado. I was fortunate to catch him in his element as he was just tossing ingredients inside a dark, large pan when I walked in. One couldn’t immediately tell that he was a chef in charge of the kitchen. He wasn’t in uniform unlike the employees visible to the customers. Instead, he was dressed in an oversized t-shirt and paint-stained shorts. He has been working in the restaurant for almost three decades, and was able to work with my now passed Lolo who used to manage the meat shop when it was still a small stall in Quiapo.

           My little tour of the kitchen ended with me watching how my favorite Spicy Squid was cooked. I also brought home some takeaway for me to munch on for dinner later. I took one last look at the gloomy restaurant, knowing that it might be the last time I see it in its original architecture from seventy years ago.

           I rode my father’s scooter once again, still fully fueled from our stopover in Toho. We decided to roam around Ongpin for a while and visit small stores selling all sorts of minerals and stones that promise calm and peace and prosperity. It’s funny how their staff must have been already immune to the charms’ effects, seeing how they can be unnecessarily rude to the street children who happen to wander carelessly into their store.

           The distasteful trip to the old charm store was followed by a stopover at Lord Stow’s which I am most excited about. I had my first Lord Stow’s egg tarts in a quick trip to Macau and since then, I would always be on the lookout for branches here in Manila. The bakery is internationally famed for its luscious, melt-in-your-mouth egg tarts. Fortunately, their small bakery in Ongpin St. was accessible and just as tasty as the ones I found abroad. The egg tarts were just as smooth and fluffy, with sweetness and saltiness waging a war as the cream filling melted in my mouth. I ordered a box of four for takeout as I made a mental note to save it for a movie I have to watch later that night.

           The final box in our itinerary list is one of Dad’s customers, hidden away at the second floor of a commercial building hosting a jewelry shop at the ground floor. With signs barely visible, I unknowingly climbed the crusty stairs of the time-worn Sa Lido restaurant. We were welcomed by the shocking sight of old Chinese men sleeping on their own tables, one with his mouth open and others asleep above a newspaper they were supposed to be reading. My dad was greeted by the gracious staff. They knew Dad by his name as he was often there to deliver rations or to collect payment. “Panganay ko” he introduced me as I was curiously smiled at by baristas manning the old drip coffee machines. We were still full from our lunch earlier which was why we just opted to take a few pictures of the restaurant. With one look, the place is easily recognizable as an authentic Chinese restaurant due to its antique furniture and Feng Shui marks around. One of the staff whose name I cannot recall (sorry, Ate!) but who Dad knew well pointed out that it is their authentic brewed coffee that garnered such a loyal following from the Chinese residents of Binondo. These patrons come back so often that they have their own mugs stored at the cafe. She showed us samples of these mugs to show how some of these even have pictures of their owners. We didn’t stay too long as not to disturbed the few but loyal clients they have at the moment and once again rode the scooter to head home.

           As I settled on the back of my father’s scooter, I began recounting the day’s events, trying to relish every detail of the day’s trip. I finally saw Toho and Sa Lido in real life. They were no longer funny names in the receipts that I gathered from my father’s worn wallet. I met the owners and the staff that allowed to have a glimpse of the life my father has been leading. I saw the friendships he had to build in order to build us a life of satisfaction – a life where I couldn’t ask for more.

Beads of sweat formed in my temples as we rode away under the scorching sun. I hadn’t realized how tired I was until I got home and fell asleep almost immediately while my father drove away to supply more of his rations. I was so tired after a day’s worth of roaming under the sun, and I began to imagine what it must have been like to do just the same for longer than I have lived, and do so always with much joy. This was his life and I am glad that I got to see this part of him through the streets of Binondo.

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A Country Inside a Country

By Faith Dela Vega

When going to Binondo, one should bring a towel, some cash, and an umbrella. All of which I forgot to bring when I went there with my friends the first time around. Binondo was a place I’ve never been to since it seemed like there was nothing to do there. It was near Divisoria, a big commercial center famous for its low-prices. At first I thought that was where the crowd was because it was well-known, so I was surprised at the many people in Binondo.

           Binondo is a busy city known best as the Chinatown of Manila. Built over 424 years ago as the oldest Chinatown in the world, it is home to different commercial places and of cultures as well. It is a prime location for businesses since it is located near the harbours where containers and ships are docked. Before, it was considered as the main business district in the Philippines since it was the first stop of the earliest Chinese immigrants. With its busy streets and tangled electric wires, at first glance it doesn’t seem any special at all. The glinting asphalts lined up with the bright red lanterns greeted passersby and locals. Walking from the Lucky Chinatown Mall as our first stop on our destination, we crossed the bridge on Regina Regente Street to the famous Binondo Church. There, locals and foreigners alike flock the place. Some, stopping over to offer prayers for whatever they may need and others just admiring the beauty of the architecture. Many looking around and taking pictures of the stone walls and stained-glass windows of the old church. The Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz was built over 423 years ago, only a year after the Chinatown it resides in was built. With its grey stone walls that were hardened with age and bleak red outline that gleams under the sun, one might consider it to be the heart of Binondo. A towering figure that still stands amidst the irony of its construction.

Placed on the center of the plaza, it is surrounded by different-sized commercial buildings and restaurants in the streets of Binondo. All of which, can be visited on a walking distance.

They say that food is the main tourist attraction in every place you go and Binondo says no doubt! The Eng Bee Tin store is where we went to next, conveniently a few meters away from the church. There are a lot of branches in Binondo, we saw three while we were walking but the biggest is located on the left side of the Minor Basilica. The store has two floors, the lower for the products like their famous hopia in different flavors, mooncakes, tikoy, and other Chinese sweets. On the upper floor, there is a restaurant where you can buy local Chinese food staples like dumplings and viands of different variants. There is also a small store where we browsed around different merchandise like keychains, fans, refrigerator magnets, t-shirts and chopsticks made in the Philippines, some with the store’s logo on them and others styled in traditional Chinese prints and Filipino. The store’s elements a blatant fusion of the two cultures.

We started our journey around lunchtime, and at 2 o’clock in the afternoon, you would think that people would take their “siesta time” but the streets were still full of vendors and travellers, a manifestation the never-ending energy of the people there. Directly beside the big Eng Bee Tin store was a milk tea shop that also sells ube tarts. We bought some cool drinks to energize ourselves as we went on with the day. Towards the left is another popular destination for both tourists and locals which was Chuan Kee, a critically-acclaimed Filipino and Chinese restaurant best known for its cheap but delicious food. Upstairs in the same building, is Cafe Mezzanine. A cafe known as the Volunteer Fireman’s Coffeeshop. When you enter the restaurant, you are greeted by various trophies and newspaper articles that hung on the wall. The indigo-colored lights and red orange walls give off a cool yet welcoming vibe. One would think that the place is run by firemen because of the signs and articles but actually, the profit of the cafe is donated to the local fire station, Binondo Paco Fire Search and Rescue Brigade. For our afternoon snack, we ordered their Xiao Long Bao— Chinese dumplings with soup inside. The long wait was unnoticeable as we were all occupied by the company shared. Xiao Long Bao enjoyed with different interpretations of our not yet done journey.

After dining, we explored the streets of Ongpin and Yuchengco. Ongpin is famous for the medicinal herbs and drugstores with different unusual plants and animals they sell like ginseng and tortoises. On the corner of Ongpin and Yuchengco is a small flower stand with bright bouquets lined up the stalls. There was no vendor when we got there so we waited. While looking around the streets, we saw school children start to come out of their building. The white polos and black skirts and pants were what welcomed us on the street. Elementary school kids with their well-kept hair and heavy school bags came crowding the streets. Small children greeted by their parents and fetchers waiting by the entrance of the school came into view. You could hear different languages, Tagalog spoken by the Filipino vendors and Mandarin by the Chinese children and adults. When the vendor came (probably from lunch), we asked how much the flowers were. They were relatively cheaper than the ones they sell in the malls but we didn’t get to buy because we had no money left and it was time to go home. The streets were filled with fruit stands and nearby restaurants and drugstores. Some jewelry stores also filled the place. Binondo smelled like fruits on a summer day mixed with herbs and medicine and something else I can’t quite place. Hong Kong had the same smell. I thought about how it was weird that it seemed like a whole new country. The cultures of both the Philippines and China had mixed but it seemed predominantly Chinese. The old gray stone buildings housed families of different generations, Chinese and Filipino. The languages you heard was a mix of English, Mandarin and Tagalog. But wherever you look, the people were mostly Chinese. The owners of the stores were Chinese but their workers were Filipino. There seemed like a hierarchy in that Chinatown. I didn’t know if it was because it was the oldest in the world, or the fact that they have made this district in Manila as their home, and the citizens as their workers. The Chinese owned Binondo, its culture and roads influenced by the people that walked on it. Its colonizers now inhabitants, and natives as the foreigners.

The last stop of the journey was the flowershop and the school. Walking to the LRT Station while the sun was going down was a bit bittersweet. There were still a lot of people milling around, each doing their daily tasks. Some like us, were heading home while others were just about to start their day, lugging around equipment of different kinds, eager to get to their own destinations.

The buildings seemed to time with the sky that was getting darker by each minute. And I was slowly noticing how everything was also beginning to darken. The asphalt streets that were glinting in the sun a few hours ago were showing our shadows and wet spots made by dropped liquids and water from the shops. The black spaghetti electric chords tangled up in the street posts were blocking the street signs and the sky. Some streets we passed smelled like sewers and sweat, all with the same distinct smell of every Chinatown I’ve been to. It seemed like a different world away from mine but in reality, only a few train stops. My friend exclaimed while he was on the train towards south, “Goodbye Binondo, Hello Philippines!” The idea was amusing at first but after realizing the heavy truth it held, it no longer brought a smile on my face. The whole trip did feel like I was a tourist going around a different country. Maybe every Chinatown in the world holds the same magic.

 Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Faith

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Back to Benavides

By Andrea Dee

When I properly returned to Binondo – to the world’s oldest Chinatown which happens to be in Manila  – after approximately ten years, the first place I walked by was a mami and siopao (although I always remembered it for the siomai) restaurant called Masuki, magnetically dragging me to its front step, as charming as always. It struck a familiar chord in me, with regular Sunday breakfast trips to Masuki in my childhood coming up to the front of my mind. Walking around in Binondo just looked different, but maybe that’s because I always used to go to Binondo with my family before. I’ve never really been there alone, so maybe, that’s why I saw the place that way. Maybe it’s because I’ve grown, as well.

Chinatown has grown a lot as well, since its foundation in 1594 and with the establishment of multiple schools and business and with the immigration of many Chinese-Filipinos. Despite the ways Chinatown has grown, though, I’ve heard that Masuki remains exactly the same since its establishment in the 1930s. And to me, it definitely felt like it didn’t change one bit.

See, Masuki and the taste of their chicken mami with its sweet asado sauce never changed over the years and the giant siomai that's as big as my fist reminds me so much of my childhood. The chicken mami, priced at PHP150 for a regular and a PHP160 for a large, had clear soup and plain-tasting noodles with chopped boiled chicken on top, a side of green onions, and a small cup of its signature sauce. You could either pour some sauce over every bite of noodles, or not make use of the sauce in any way - it depends on the person’s preference - but I always liked eating the noodles with the sauce. I think that the sauce is what gives the mami its flavor. However, despite how much I personally liked the mami, I’ve heard people say that they really hate it because the soup supposedly smells bad, but I’ve always had a terrible sense of smell, so it was always just amazing.

Masuki, in all its home-y hole in the wall glory, can be found on the quiet street of Benavides. Benavides is a smaller street one turn away from the busier streets of Ongpin and Salazar, with barely any cars or traffic passing through it, making the street much quieter and more peaceful. Unlike Ongpin street, it is very easy to just walk on Benavides without having to worry about getting hit by a car or running into a tricycle.

Just meters away from Masuki is a Chinese bakery called Wan Kee Bakery Inc. While Wan Kee Bakery isn’t necessarily as big a part of my childhood as Masuki was, it’s part of my life because of its giant siopao. Since I was young, I always liked eating siopao for some unknown reason, and my mom would sometimes bring home siopao – especially the giant siopao – from her trips to Binondo.

The giant siopao first entered my life a few years back when I was twelve or thirteen. My mom brought it home, put it on a plate and compared the size of it to my face for the laughs. I remember even measuring the siopao’s diameter once with a ruler, and if my memory serves me right, the siopao has an approximate eight inch diameter. When you lift the siopao, it feels as heavy as a rock, and it’s filled with pork filling, some veggies and a giant century egg in the middle. It was definitely big enough for four people to share, and even so, it was still extremely filling that it could pass for a whole meal with its thick fluffy bread and the meat inside that was just the right mix of salty and sweet.

So of course, before going back to Binondo, I asked my mom where that giant siopao came from. She told me about the location, what it was called, and that’s how exactly I ended up at Wan Kee Bakery.

It was my first time to ever actually step into Wan Kee Bakery, and some part of me expected it to be a bigger store. (It’s probably because of the size of the siopao.) The entrance didn’t look fancy and honestly, it looked sort of dingy from the outside. If you don’t look around while walking or if you’re not specifically looking for Wan Kee Bakery, you probably won’t be able to spot it. Lucky for me, I was both looking for it and looking around as I walked, so I was about to find it on my first try. But yeah, it didn’t look like how I expected it to look like. In my head I had this image of Wan Kee Bakery having bright yellow lights and even LED lights on top of the entrance, a bigger signage, and a larger space inside. So when I went in the bakery, I was internally surprised and maybe sort of disappointed to see how small and cluttered it was. But it did feel just as homey and smelled just as warm as your typical bakery. One of the workers there was still baking fresh goods in front of their dirty glass window, that anyone passing by could peek in and see the goods being baked in the morning.

The bakery had one corner cluttered with bread boxes and barely enough space for buyers to walk around in. But right when you enter the shop, just less than two meters from the entrance, the first thing you see are freezers where their siopaos are stored. In one freezer are the smaller siopao – bola-bola, monggo, asado, they'll have it. Beside it, in a bigger freezer, are the bigger siopaos. Heh, seeing the giant siopao made me laugh to myself. I even wanted to buy some, but I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to finish it.

Moving on from the siopao, the bakery also has different breads such as rolls of various flavors, cheese breads, donuts, pies, cake, and yes, hopia. And take note, they have five different types of hopia - baboy special, ube, yellow monggo, black monggo, and monggo with peanut. I've never been the biggest fan of hopia, but surely, this may be the store with one of the most varied options of hopia flavors to choose from. However as a fan of donuts and pies and siopao, the egg pies, donuts and smaller siopaos did look especially appetizing. The asado and bola-bola siopaos were fresh out of the steamer and smelled savory and flavorsome. The egg pies looked soft and sweet, and the sugar coating the donuts made it look extremely inviting to my childlike taste buds. Though I unfortunately left the store empty handed because it was a bit crowded when I went in, and I never really liked buying things when the store was still so full. Also, I hadn’t even eaten lunch, and I didn’t want to buy bread and pastries when I haven’t eaten yet.

When I left Wan Kee Bakery with empty hands and walked a little more, I was almost at the end of the road. It was a dead end where you would turn left and go on to the larger and busier streets of Ongpin and Salazar, and already being in Binondo, of course I had to check out Ongpin Street and Salazar Street as well.

But while there’s more life, more hotels, more drugstores, more Chinese restaurants, more merchandise stores and probably much more culture and history on the streets of Ongpin and Salazar, they don’t and didn’t trigger any warmth in me as I walked on those streets. I didn’t spend much time walking around in Ongpin. I only took in the busy crowds, the honking cars and the bad traffic, with my mind unintentionally comparing Ongpin’s hustle and bustle to the stillness and calmness of Benavides.

See, I like the tranquility and sentimental value in the places I go to - which may be why I’m always drawn to Masuki, and always drawn to that giant siopao in Wan Kee. And as far as I know, there is only one Masuki, and only one Wan Kee Bakery in Binondo. That, I feel, is the reason why no other street can really bring back the same warm and fuzzy childhood memories that Benavides Street does, in all its familiarity.

Until now, I can remember how on those Sunday mornings from my childhood, my mom used to give me and my older sister money. She would tell us to go to the small hair salon right across the street to get our hair cut before we would go to Divisoria. These days, my sister and I don't go there as often as before because of our schedules. My mom does occasionally go, though. Sometimes, I have to go with her because the dermatology clinic I go to is in Bambang, near Binondo, and afterwards, she would bring me with her to a Chinese restaurant so she could buy takeout for our lunch. More often than not, she would just leave the house while we're asleep and bring home the food herself.

When I returned to the Binondo area on my own, around ten years after our regular Sunday mornings in Binondo, it was my first time to actually go to Wan Kee Bakery, to Ongpin Street, to Salazar Street - it was the first time for me to actually experience and walk through Binondo alone, without my dad or my mom or my sister. I like to think that it’s different seeing it when you’re a little kid compared to when you’re seeing it now, when you’re old enough to think for yourself and not get lost on the streets all that easily anymore.

Ah, it’s time for lunch.

From Ongpin and Salazar, from the front of the big Chinese drugstore across the dead end where you turn left, I slowly returned to Benavides. Walking back, I took longer looks at the signs over the stores, walking and avoiding the few passing cars until I stopped where a large red-orange gate was open. I walked down the two tiny steps leading into the restaurant and sat at a corner table, smiling to myself upon spotting the exact same table where my family and I used to sit at for our Sunday breakfasts.

Even from a different view, Masuki still looked the same after so many years, with its wooden chairs and tables and checkerboard patterned flooring. The same cashier, the same kitchen, the same bathroom, the same menus. I don’t know if the workers were still the same people from before, but it sure felt so familiar. Staying close to familiarity, I ordered one regular mami, and I ate it the exact same way - picking up a bit of the noodles with my chopsticks and spooning up some sauce and slathering it all over the noodles before eating it. I can still recall how my mom and I would share one large bowl of mami because I was still small, and looking back on it now, it's really heartwarming. These days, I can finish a whole bowl of mami all on my own but the the warmth that comes from eating it is still there.

Despite how Masuki looked exactly the same, the area right outside it was different. Yeah, the bakeries, the trading stores, the other restaurants were still there, but the hair salon we used to go to when we were younger had closed down and was replaced with a garage that seemingly looks like one for a factory.

Ten years really do seem to bring a lot of change to a once-familiar place, huh? But at least, you know in yourself that the feelings that those once-familiar places, such as the warmth Benavides has me feel every time I go there, brought you will never change.

 Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Andrea

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Binondo: Experiencing the Unexperienced Culture

By Paula Cualteros           

The Chinese culture has been evident in a country like the Philippines. With Filipinos who widely embrace the Chinese traditions and lifestyles, there is an unending bond that somehow make the two worlds collide. This makes the Filipino and Chinese cultures function in unison. Binondo is a great example for this connection between these two worlds that allow anyone, whether local or international visitors, to see the harmonious relationship of these traditions. In other words, both cultures find balance in one another, just like how Yin Yang functions in connection with one another.

Fact: I was never really been exposed to the Chinese culture until I moved into the Philippines in the year 2012. Then and there, I became enthused with the Chinese culture and food that  an Asian country such as the Philippines had abundantly.

 It all started back when I was twelve years old where my curiosity grew for the culture. I had many Chinese-Filipino friends and I noticed something they had in common— they were all rich! Everywhere I went, I would see that Chinoys (Chinese Pinoy) were wealthy, all having businesses related to agriculture, furniture, or restaurants. For years, I was clueless about the local Chinese and their traditions, until I found out that I was half Chinese as well (Shocking, isn’t it?). With the exposure to the other half of my identity, I was able to understand the culture I once never knew about. Meeting my pure Chinese piao (cousins) and guama/guakong (grandparents) was difficult as a Westernized Filipino who grew around the values of both Filipinos and Americans; but this made me open a whole new door for adventure. This gave me the opportunity to participate in different events such as traditional Chinese weddings, birthdays, and other celebrations.

 The Truth About Chinatown

Let’s face it, every country has a wide range of Chinese communities that resulted to one great location: Chinatown. These communities are where you can find  men and women, both young and old, who devote themselves into their respective fields of business. The Philippines has its very own Chinatown, the infamous Binondo City in Manila. In fact, it is the oldest Chinatown in the entire world! However, there was one issue— I have never been to Binondo. As I rode the Divisoria jeepney in front of my school along Taft Avenue, my curiosity was as wide as when I had just been exposed to the Chinese culture. I was thirsty to learn and see what this historical place had to offer. I got off the jeep in front of Binondo church and whiffed the ‘fresh’ polluted air of the city.

For some reason, when I stepped into the boundaries of Binondo, it was like I re-experienced the traditions of my Chinese family; as if  I was entering a whole world I have never been to. Red lanterns filled the sky view; the vibrant color of red was lighting up the sky every time I looked up. Signages with Chinese translations were everywhere from banks, restaurants, and public transportations. The city of Binondo was like a country within a country wherein it embraced the likeness of the Chinese culture.

Why visit Binondo?

           Walking through the narrow streets of Ongpin and Salazar, I would see a lot of fruit stands selling locally grown fruits and agriculturally important products for healing and remedy such as burdock root. The city stretches from here where restaurants can be located. Restaurants with roasted duck hanging by the window silsl and steam coming out of the door entrances from the intense frying of noodles nearby. Binondo is a hard place to get lost in because for some reason, as I was walking in circles around the neighborhood, I never seemed to have gotten lost. It was as if I managed to return at a place I recognized. For a first timer, I thought that was pretty impressive!

As a timeless destination, I was enamoured with the unique beauty of Binondo. It was as if I was going back into time when I saw the worn out signages on the streets, the faded posters of Chinese whitening beauty products, and the simple restaurant designs of dimsum houses. The loud and busy streets of Binondo was chaotic, yet for some reason, it was all in harmony. It was as if there was a pattern of activities being done within the vicinity of the Binondo. Delivery trucks came to and fro the narrow streets, men carried out boxes of fruits and motor parts, tinderas yelled distantly in the background, and car horns echoed. In a place like this, there was no doubt that an individual will not experience something new. The aroma was appetizing, the environment was welcoming, and the people were nurturing.  In many ways, Binondo is like a home away from home for both local Filipinos and Chinoys.

 What’s interesting about Binondo?

There are so many things to look forward to when you’re in Binondo. The people, the food, and the experience. The restaurants in the area were very simple, not too old and not too modern, just the right touch of old and new for customers of the old and new generations. I myself was enthused with the food experience. I passed by different restaurants to try a dish or two and for some reason, the same food can taste so different based on the styles of each restaurant. I did not expect that there can be something so unique in the same cultural frame. There were restaurants lined up against a long road that specialized in different dishes such as dimsum, noodles, and chicken; it’s like an endless option for anyone to satisfy their food needs.

I even stopped at different stalls and stores where I talked to some of the sellers. Never would I expect that some of them would respond. As a person without a clue of the environment of Binondo, everything was unclear. With curiosity and interests in the lives of the locals, I decided to talk to a woman, a tender of one of the fruit stalls. I approached her with a smile and a greeting of gratitude in request of a interview for school only to be shunned with yelling of disinterest and complaint as she told me to leave in Fukien Chinese.

 Lesson learned: Do not ask for an interview, converse and go with the flow!

 It was so embarrassing, I did not expect to be told to leave for something as innocent as a school activity. Maybe she thought I would put her in a hot seat about her business. Despite that, I brushed it off my shoulder and continued my journey on Benavidez street.

Passing by more restaurants and roasted chickens or ducks by the window sills, I came across a man in a merchandising shop. This time, I greeted him with a smile as I asked for recommendations on what places to visit. (Not, an interview.) We conversed and I told him it was my first time there. He told me to sit at his booth and we talked.  He was an average height Chinoy, probably around 5’7 ft in height, wore simple clothes such as khaki shorts and a t-shirt with a pair of slippers. A man in his mid-40’s with spiky hair and a very contagious smile; his name was Richard Sing from the Sing Merchandising Shop, and he was born and raised in Binondo. In other words, he knew everything about the place. He told me the original restaurants in the area and how it would help me understand the difference of commercialized Chinese food from the authentic.

The conversation went on for almost an hour to the point where it got serious and he told me his frustrations as an old generation Chinoy. Throughout the conversation, I gave him hints on how I’ll be writing about the experiences and people and he seemed to not mind about him being “interviewed” for it.  My mind was in awe when I found out the truth about the Chinoys in the Philippines that were labeled based on society’s stereotypical views. “Just because Chinese kami, ‘di ibig sabihen taga Chiang Kai Shek kami.” Many Chinoys are assumed to have come from the same school, from the same city, with the same values. Other stereotypes circulated on physical appearance where every Chinoy man is fat, white, and nerdy while women are skinny, white, and needy. Talk about borderline racism.

Richard seemed to have had a lot of experience in both the environment of Binondo and the societal conflicts of Chinoys. My time with him made me understand the culture of the Chinese yet understand what it is like to be Chinoy. In many ways, I learned years worth of information in a span of an hour. I’m a Chinoy, I should know these things too.

Rest assured, the wonders of the place and the food aren’t just the things to experience, it’s the interaction with people as well.

 What is different about the Chinese culture?

           A lot had changed through the decades that have passed but the thing is, it is both a negative and positive outlook. Let’s tackle it this way, starting off with the concept of love. We all know about the arranged marriages that was and still is a tradition of China. But the difference is, many Chinese families are more open to the belief of “what one’s heart is set on, then follow it” (or in this case, their partner). According to Richard, in his generation, many families were still strict about marriages but the younger generations better known as the generation of the 1990’s and onwards have openly accepted independence in terms of marriages.

           One tradition I never knew was as serious as marriage was the taking home of food. In Chinese events, there are always big servings of food from appetizers of egg soup, to main courses of peking duck and wrap, and to dessert of mango sago with milk. At the end of the event, there are always heaping amount of leftovers thus every Chinese family would request for a take out of the food. Here’s the difference though, the newer generation of Chinoys don’t take home the leftovers, only leaving the food to waste. This act is unacceptable for the older generation like Richard but is common in the young Chinoys of today. The way I understood it is that Chinoys nowadays think more about convenience rather than practicality. In other words, the new generation Chinese are more privileged than the older generation. Well, this can just be an opinion of his, or a starting point of a new stereotype for new generation Chinoys.

 Is Binondo worth visiting?

           I’ll keep this short and simple, the answer is yes! In a span four hours of my stay in Binondo, I was able to try authentic Chinese food, get yelled at by a Chinese woman, talked to Richard who knew everything about this place, and better yet, I was able to experience the unexperienced culture. It was the culture I was searching for, the culture I wanted to further understand. Talk about adventure, right? The city is filled with flavors and sights that give an overall joyous feeling. As I walked back and forth along the streets of Binondo, I felt like I was a child playing in a playground. Everything seemed to be interesting, as if I needed to try everything around me. Philippines’ Chinatown gives you best of both worlds, the heat of the Philippines with a taste of China; what a combination!

           To get the most of your visit, it is best to have an open mind and to not be afraid of trying something new. Everything I did was something that got me out of my comfort zone and I think that’s what made going to Binondo a more memorable experience, allowing yourself to see the location in a broader perspective. The old city of Binondo is not only a destination but a journey within the narrow streets of Chinatown. Binondo may be a small city but it has enough activities to keep you occupied. I believe that everyone’s experience may be different but one thing is for sure, Philippines’ Chinatown unifies Chinoys both young and old, that will forever be a medium of passed down tradition for the future generations. Binondo is unique and historical and I can’t wait to visit it again.

Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Paula

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Down the Rabbit Hole

By Tamara Cloa

Down the rabbit hole, Alice fell into Wonderland - a surreal land full of the peculiar and the unexplored.

I was feeling a bit tired from all the requirements I had to do and the preparations I had to make for my organization’s concert. I almost dozed off in an air-conditioned SUV over the chatter of my friends as my white noise. We were on our way to Binondo - a part of Manila that upto that day still foreign to me. All I heard is that everyone who lives there is Chinese. The good thing though was that I went with my friends - Dana, Keegan, Trisha, Lianne, and Emiliane. And the best part? Trisha’s mom - whom I call “Tita” - offered to be the White Rabbit to our Alice. Otherwise, we would have taken the LRT - which could’ve brought us there earlier by a few minutes. The downside was that taking the LRT did not give the luxury of privacy and convenience as compared to a private car.

I snapped from my daze as I felt the SUV come to a halt. I checked my surroundings to find a BDO Teller Machine, a street sign that said “Paredes”, and an alleyway. Tita said that she wanted us to try a local favourite: Quik Snack. It was at the middle point of the alleyway called Carvajal. This alleyway became the rabbit hole we fell into. Its sides are lined with carts that had towers of fruits like oranges, apples, dragon fruit, watermelons - you name it. Sometimes, there would be a Chinese drug store or two popping up between the fruit carriages. I held on to my belongings. My parents told me that Binondo is a sketchy place full of sketchy characters. Especially at this point, I didn’t want to lose my phone - considering that my mom accidentally paid for my bill ‘til October.

The White Rabbit led us to a cavern of delicious, affordable, and authentic Chinese delicacies - Quik-Snack. We were not met by a birthday tea party where the Mad Hatter and Hare were in attendance. Instead, we were welcomed by a local eatery filled with local diners: women wearing pearls sipping on iced coffee with coffee jelly and ice cream on top; police in uniform awaiting their ordered lunch; elderly men enjoying their solitude with a newspaper at hand, and families sharing a delicious meal together. The aroma of freshly steamed buns and the distinct peanut smell of sate sauce lend a comforting feel to an otherwise hectic ambiance. After a few minutes, I was served a hot plate of mami noodles with beef and sate sauce along with a glass of iced coffee. Soon after, more dishes such as oyster cake, soup noodles, and meat buns followed. I’d say the food was reasonably priced; most of the menu items were priced below 200 pesos.

The amazing food did not distract me from the bits of history that ordained Quik-Snack’s interior. Old Chinese comics and rough sketches filled the posts, while a mural of the establishment’s past decked the walls. The charm that this restaurant has and the warmth it exudes makes one big on Chinese food. I felt like I was back in time - maybe around the 1940s. Filipinos and Chinese people in their Americanos and the like would share the home-like space Quik-Snack had. Probably.

We stepped outside their door and ended up on Ongpin Street.

We felt small compared to the buildings that surrounded us. The hustling and bustling of vehicles and the people did not help at all. The small tend to look up. There was a noticeable contrast between the the style of the then-new metropolitan to the latest high-rise condominiums. Black and white like the opposing sides of a game of chess. Yet unlike chess, there was the presence of a gray area that helps tie both sides together. The traditional-yet-modern feel that the lanterns give to its surrounding area was stunning. It helped remind one that this is Chinatown, and in Chinatown, there are a lot of Chinese drug stores. I’m not entirely sure what to feel about these traditional types of medication, but I guess that’s because I’ve never seen one up close.

One particular store caught my eye. It had a grand facade without even comparing it to the other Chinese pharmas. The outside was reminiscent of either a temple or a traditional royal building. Being someone who never been at a Chinese drug store before, we decided to take a little sneak peek at some of their wares. It was as if we were in the presence of a caterpillar riddler that smokes. There were trays of ingredients that we could not recognize. That was how exotic - or possibly illegal - the herbs/goods were. My parents weren’t joking when they said that Binondo has some sketchy characters. We stayed there long enough to figure out their system.  Once a customer tells them of their illness, they crush and mix ingredients into an powder for consumption. Maybe they could put “DRINK ME” or “EAT ME” labels on them.

While talking to the lady-pharmacist, we found out that this was actually a family-run business. She said that they’ve been putting up the shop since the year 1938. During those 81 years of being in business, you’d think that people might have forgotten all about them - considering the presence of modern medicine- yet they haven’t. They still have a steady stream of customers coming to them. Talking to the people there helped to bring the feel of the store back down to earth, but there was still this uneasiness I was feeling just being in there. Was it the smell? Maybe. Did some powder get into the air and messed with my brain? No, hopefully.

We went off to continue our venture, leaving the putrid scent of the store behind.

A block away, we reached a street that was lined with traditional shops. Most had lovely red lanterns hanging outside their storefronts. One shop had endless rows and columns of shelves filled with jars of Chinese treats - none of which I’m familiar with. Tita bought each of us a jar with a label that was in Chinese. It looked like sweet tamarind, but I can’t be too sure. I think my mom bought something similar from Taiwan during one of her trips. I didn’t like the candied-somethings she brought, but I guess I’m willing to give whatever-this-is a try.

Across the street, there was a store that was too cramped for its own good. The goods being sold seemed random too: thick blankets, tea sets, incense, and more. Tita saw the confusion on my face and said, “This is a traditional Chinese wedding shop. I bought my wedding materials here”. I had too many questions in the my head: why do traditional Chinese weddings need these? What do they symbolize? How long has this shop been here? Tita was looking for something, so I had to asked Google instead. Even Google couldn’t fully grasp what they meant.

Around the corner, I noticed a white-walled store that didn’t seem to belong. On its shelves weren’t exotic ingredients, but bottles of medicine from some of the biggest pharmaceutical companies. It was just like any other pharmacy I could find outside of Binondo, but this shows that while tradition is important for the Chinese, they are willing to see things in a modern context. I felt more at ease after seeing this. Maybe not all of the things I hear about Binondo are true. Maybe I could grow to love it.

Beside the pharmacy, there was a shop that sold symbols of luck, fortune, and the like. They had different types of precious stones, statues, and even gourds. When asked, the saleslady explained that the vegetable was used as a charm to keep diseases away. This is one of the things I’ve always wondered about Chinese culture. Why do they rely on stones and charms to help them? I wonder where they got their beliefs from. I could ask Trisha or the saleslady, but that would seem extremely rude. I rather keep those kinds of questions to myself.

We walked a bit more to a bakery along Salazar Street. The place was filled with stacks of siopao, cuapao, hopia, tikoy, bread and other Chinese delicacies. The best part? They made them in-house, which made them special. The smell of freshly-baked goods wafted the air. If they’re trying to get me to buy something using smell, it was working. Being the Filipino, I bought my dad some ube-filled hopia which is his favourite. I got it for around 80 pesos. And as with most Filipino adventures, buying pasalubong signified the end of our journey.

I sat in the rather empty LRT carriage in a daze - as if waking from a dream. Being in Binondo, I kind of forgot that I was still in Manila. I found things I’ve never seen, heard, or known of. Ironically, I was a tourist in my own country. At first, I felt scared and out of touch with Binondo’s ambiance. Maybe one day, I could gather up the courage to  gothere alone and explore more what Binondo had to offer, waking from my dream of rumours and growing up to delve deeper - just like Alice. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Tamara

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The Little Red District

By Allyssa Sabelle Chua

Found within the busy streets of Manila is the Philippines Lucky Chinatown, it is known as one of the oldest in the world. This place is actually a setting in one of Jose Rizal’s famous novels which goes to show how involve this place is in Filipino history. This is due to the reason that the Chinese people have been trading with the Filipinos and the Kastillas (known as the Spanish) during their time of colonization. Yes, Lucky Chinatown is a place of many events and happenings. This is where I will start the story of how I, a Chinese-Filipino myself, explored this historical place.

Let me first give a brief background about my ethnicity, my Chinese family did not immigrate during the time of the Spaniards but during the Japanese occupation of China wherein they had to escape communism. Those two relatives of mine, my great grandfathers, went to the Philippines to escape not only the Japanese but communism. This will all be another story, but as you can see, they escaped to the Philippines without knowing how to speak in Spanish or Tagalog. Simply coming here with what they only have made them miss home, but they had to work. Luckily, there was Chinatown, which is mostly referred to as Ongpin. I’ll set this straight, Ongpin is just a district of Chinatown. Here in the Philippines, Chinatown is known as Binondo, so it’s a pretty big place from what you can see.

Ongpin is a famous Chinese-Filipino, commonly known as Tsinoy or Chinoy, so what did he do to earn himself a street? He is not only a businessman but he aided in the revolutionaries against the Spanish and American colonization. Pretty interesting isn’t it? Now, you know what’s even more interesting besides the history of Binondo? My own family history. I decided not to search in the internet or whatsoever, instead I kept on asking and calling up my Ama (Grandmother) of what is there to see in Chinatown. What she did to help me is send me stories of her and her family going to Chinatown to spend leisure time, and her father is also a part of the Ang’s association. I am not sure if that association still exists today since my Ama was still a young maiden during that time.

Okay, so let me guide you first of how I explored back to Ongpin, retracing the steps of my Ama, well at least trying to. I first met up with my aunt at Taft so that both of us can have a fun trip at Binondo, she did a bit of her research but we really didn’t use it as much. We first rode from Vito Cruz station and got off at Carriedo station. Once we arrived in Binondo, we were seeing stalls and vendors almost everywhere, saying various things from food to clothes to knick knacks. My Aunt and I were really lost, I didn’t call up my Ama yet because I thought of ‘Why not explore it first by getting lost? It’s a new kind of narrative’. So my Aunt and I did it, and we were really lost and going almost everywhere but reaching nowhere.

I’m telling you we don’t know what street we were at, or if we were really at Chinatown but we were walking while trying to look for one thing that can help us find it, the red lantern. Thankfully we found it and walked right towards it and decided to walk by the busy districts. We eventually found this small shop that sold many lucky charms, my aunt and I exhaled in joy that we were finally here in Chinatown… sort of. Since I did not know what Binondo was since my Ama referred to it as Ongpin, I did not know it was actually a district. So here I was, thinking I was exploring all there was to Binondo but it was only a district. Don’t be fooled though, Ongpin is an interesting place and so is the history of my family.

From there we asked the shop vendor if where Ongpin is, they pointed to a street and gave vague directions, but we were able to find one thing, which was Ongpin’s commercial district. My aunt and I were searching for something that makes Chinatown unique, like a tourist spot and so on. She led the way with the little knowledge she had from her short research last night. We continued to walk, looking for the tourist spots, but nothing’s to be really found in the commercial center. It is mostly shops for people to do negotiations or to commercialize their products, well if you’re interested in business perhaps you can ask the people in those establishments on how they manage and run it.

Then on we started to walk, we still haven’t found the tourist spots my Aunt searched for last night. Then we started to see red sidewalks and more lanterns, we continued to walk and at least found this gateway. I sighed with relief thinking to myself that this has to be Ongpin, the real Ongpin that my Aunt saw in the internet and was glamourized by the pictures of famous photographers. Well, it wasn’t exactly as beautiful as the photographs but let me tell you why I find this gateway interesting. The gate itself is an entrance for goodluck, which is why it is in the color red; the meaning of happiness. It invites the three gods: health, wealth, and prosperity and the dragons are a common symbol of luck and all other good omens.

Once my aunt and I walked to the side of the gate, we saw the temple dogs. These temple dogs look ferocious yet happy, they’re usually the color red. The reason for the color red being such a happy color is because a Chinese monster fears the color red and fireworks or loud noises. This Chinese mythical monster eats children and is the reason for Chinese New Year or the reason why red is such a lucky color. As far as I remember how this story was told, a grandmother approached the beast in the color red, the beast backed away in fear. She then had a cart of fireworks with her which she set a light, and from then the beast never came back to eat nor disturb the children. This is why noises are a good sign of a happy dinner, red is a lucky color, and why the temple dogs are of that color. Another thing of the temple dogs is their facial structure, they look monstrous so as to scare the evil away, yet they smile and seem festive so as to invite good luck. Another fact is that they always come in pairs, which may be the reason why my great grandfather always told me to have a buddy along. It’s safer to be with someone you can trust, just as how there will always be a pair of temple dogs trusting each other in their duties.

My aunt and I crossed the street because we saw this beautiful fountain. It may not be historical but it is definitely worth a picture. From the fountain, you can read what the gate says. The gate has the words on top written The Arch of Goodwill. See what I mean? The arch is a place that invites goodluck and prosperity especially the Ongpin commercial center is just behind it.

Afterwards, my aunt and I crossed back looking for the signs that point to Ongpin, and without knowing once again, we were actually at Ongpin. I was shocked with disbelief since I remembered Binondo to be bigger, and yes, it is actually bigger I was just exploring the main famous district. We both started to walk in the sweltering heat of Manila trying to find what else is there to see. My Aunt told me there is still some places to see, so she got her phone and asked the people around us on where we can find the place that held many red lanterns.

While walking in search of the red lanterns, we passed by a lot of rescue trucks such as the fire trucks and so on. My Aunt told me a little trivia about these rescue vehicles, they’re actually not a government service but a service made out of charity by many generous people. They’re also known for being the number one in rescue and so on, this goes to show that there are a lot of good people anywhere we go. People who sacrifice their safety and time in order to help and protect others, it was pretty amazing seeing real life vehicles of heroes. It feels like seeing the Bat mobile.

My Aunt and I continued to walk, our feet’s slowly start to ache. We asked around again of where we can find the place that had many red lanterns, the guard keeping watch of the shop on the sidewalk told us that it’s just straight ahead. Again, we were relieved that we were near…right? Along the way, my Aunt suddenly made an abrupt stop. She said “Buffy! Look, it’s the fried Siopao Shop! They said that it’s really good.” I tilted my head and thought “Fried Siopao? Well, it’s Chinese food and it always has a chance to be yummy so let’s buy.” Apparently, this shop can’t really be seen well since it’s small, especially its sign. I asked for the shop’s owner for two siopaos, they costed me forty-four pesos. I was happy that it’s pretty cheap and small. I took a bite out of it then my thoughts go “Woah, this is just good.”. You know that a bit of crispy layer outside of the bread and the softness of the bread in the inside? Yes, this siopao has it. Do you know the broth that can be felt when you bite it? Yeah, you can really taste it. In short, this siopao is just really good.

We still had the mission to go find the place of the many red lanterns, so we continued to walk. There was something that caught my eye though, and it was actually the combination of two religions: Buddhism and Catholicism. There was a nearby altar and it has a golden cross, but a reddish background and the people pray to it using incense and not the sign of the cross. It gave me the vibe of my home back in Antipolo wherein my Ama would pray to many gods, the half of Chinese gods and the Filipino Catholic gods. It really shows the cross-cultural impact of both the Spaniards and the Chinese to this country, even if it’s just along a small district. Being a Chinoy, I couldn’t resist the urge to go up and pray as a sign of respect. I went ahead, asked my Aunt to take my picture, and prayed. This is how you pray with the incense, you firstly get three or odd numbers of incense sticks and light them up. Once smoke starts to rise from the sticks and shorten, that is when you give a short prayer of thanks, luck, and blessing for all of us. As you pray, you have to shake the stick and bow atleast three times as well, afterwards you will place the stick in the ash pot and it has to be upright.

Afterwards, we continued our journey to the place of many red lanterns. With our aching feet, we eventually found it and went ‘Yippe’, in our minds. We started to take photos and all, then we saw this big Eng Bee Tin Hopia building by the side. It was a shop of commercialized Siopao, my Auntie asked if we would like to buy from there. I shook my head, remember my Ama giving me her story of Ongpin? Well, Eng Bee Tin wasn’t famous before. The famous hopia of her day were Salazaar and DEC. I smiled and told my Aunt “I think we should retrace my Ama’s foot steps when she was still a young maiden.” My Aunt nodded, it was a different way of exploring after all. We took our pic with the red lanterns and set off to find other tourist spots, potential tourist spots, and Salazaar.

Our feet were now really aching, but we continued to walk and somehow, we found our way to Binondo Church. It was hard to take a full picture of it which we had to cross the street in order to do so. It’s a grey old church with reds in its structure. I decided to take a picture of it from the outside only since I didn’t want to picture people praying since it was their privacy. I believe this is where most of the Chinese people are baptized to become Catholic.

Now, we were walking around in circles and I was really tired. It isn’t easy to explore a place in a lost manner. I always had a map or did research the night before since I’m an avid and usual traveler across many countries. This really was a bit different for me, but I hope that you will be able to cherish it. Well, me and my Aunt getting lost that is. We walked about again, and we found Salazaar while we were on the way. And from beyond that gate was actually mostly buildings and nothing historical. Well in terms of monuments that is. At least we were able to find the famous Salazzar that my Ama boasted about while we were there, I exhaled and in my mind: I went ‘Hopia!’. My Aunt and I bought some mongo hopia since that’s what my Ama recommended, and just as we were outside of the shop, I called her up. Because in all honesty, I wanted to know more about Ongpin, there has to be more to see. She picked her phone and we had this conversation, and she told me that that’s all there really was to see in the district. I sighed and went ‘Really? That’s it?’, Don’t get me wrong, I really remembered this place to be somehow bigger than before.

Then my Ama told me that this is where she used to have fun with her dad and siblings, that they would be here almost all the time to be happy. They would go watch movies in King’s Theater (now demolished), and then would go eat food in restaurants. This is where my Ama had her engagement party at the restaurant (demolished as well) and rode the kalesa or horse carriage (now prohibited due to animal cruelty). As I inhaled the smoke of Ongpin, I felt a bit sad for my Ama. That she has to witness all these changes in a place that involved her childhood. How things no longer really remain the same, and that change will always be constant. I realized that Ongpin may not look like it a big tourist spot compared to that of the Shinto Shrines of Japan, but it had one unique tourist spot: the stories of the people.

As we stood there, I pretty much gave up on exploring since we almost went everywhere and nearly all the places my Ama went to as a kid was demolished. Except for the Salazaar hopia establishment that was still standing tall. My Aunt and I walked and found Hap Chan, and indeed the saints that I prayed to earlier gave us luck because we found a restaurant easily. As in ordinary Chinese restaurants, there will be service tea, my type of tea. My Aunt and I sat, ordered some dumplings and Halo-Halo. I opened up my bag and started to eat the Hopia, feeling a bit sad that I couldn’t see the Chinatown she saw. Well, perhaps I can see it in her albums, but hey, they only exist now in pictures. So what are you all waiting for reading my travel post? Go there and take those pictures before progress comes in and Ongpin won’t really be the same again. Go, get lost, have some fun, and make some memories. I had a pretty sentimental time here in Ongpin, I hope you guys will have the best time there exploring the stories of the people, and walking on a sidewalk that itself is historical.

Well, here’s a picture of my Aunt and me in the aftermath. Yes, I was busy eating so please, I wasn’t smiling cause of the food. But surely enough, the look on my Aunt’s face goes to show how much we had fun together. Getting lost, asking around, me walking like a penguin, and yeah. Well, till next time. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Allyssa

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Róng Qià ( 融洽)

By Daphne L. Ching             Being a Chinese myself, there is one place I could freely use my language and heritage to bond with the other people, whether Chinese or Filipino. The word I can think of to describe such place is róng qià ( 融洽). This is Chinese for being in good terms, harmonious, and friendly with one another, where we live in perfect accord in each other. But how come róng qià, you may wonder. Let me explain through a simple trip I had one day in the very heart of the Philippines, Binondo.

As I stepped down from my first tricycle ride, I felt the hot air of the Chinatown. Sweat was already dripping down my face but I never let it bother me since that’s normal in this place. My mom and I walked down Binondo, its busy streets filled with transportations. I thought, people would smell the heavy smoke. Some may even smell the body odor from the sweats of the workers walking by on their day to day routines. But for me, that is not the case. The power of the scent that comes from the tiny noodle shop across the street overwhelmed me instead with the aroma of their la mian (hand-pulled noodles) and the spice of their mapo doufu (mapo tofu).

In a black shirt and loose shorts, I placed my small blue sling bag in front of my body and crossed the continuous traffic with my mom, delivery trucks stopping on their way to let us pass. Once we reached the other side, I can’t help but notice the big sign that said “Noodles Everyday” and posters over the glass swinging door that attracted the passersby of cheap, yet amazing la mian. A big window on the side gave people a view of the kitchen where one can watch chefs twist and pull noodles with practiced rhythms and skills.

The noise of dish plates clanging unto each other, the indistinct conversations of customers, and the common greetings of huan ying guang lin (Welcome!) floods my ears as I stepped inside. We were led by the courteous waiters to a table with red plastic chairs, where the Chinese traditional table setting of white porcelain bowl, chopstick, and tea cup are given to the hungry customers to use. Their menu presented a variety of dim sums such as siomai and xiao long bao that are cooked in round wooden dim sum steamers, bowls of soup such as misua and maki (Filipino-Chinese Pork Tenderloin), fresh seafoods such as shrimps and fish that are cooked in garlic or ginger, and vegetables such as bok choy (Chinese cabbage) that is greener than ever in oyster sauce.   With just P165, one can already get their bestselling la mian called the “Special Everyday Ramen”. Pulled thinly and cooked to perfection, the noodles glistened under the clear broth where the white puffy wantons and fat juicy beef sat lightly on top. The colors in the bowl contrasted each other as a single bite of the beef and the saltiness of the soup also complemented one another. Because it was made from raw ingredients and is hand-pulled, the noodles was designed to be connected to one another, making it possible to slurp them until my mouth was full. Aside from that, their mapo doufuI satisfied my taste buds as well. The minced meat that’s marinated with the sweet and spicy sauce was combined with soft tofu and garnished with chopped green onions. Put these two dishes together and pair it their free cold soy milk and that gave me one of the best lunch experiences that you can only find in Binondo.

As we stepped outside full and satisfied, we joined the flow of the crowd, hoping to catch our second tricycle ride. We walked along people who were carrying things, pushing carts to make deliveries, and going along shops to make up their day. A few steps down the road, I felt it was as if I was in the setting of a Chinese movie. Every time I'd set foot in Binondo, my attention would always divert towards beautiful sceneries with unique structures. Lanterns hung along the lamp posts, creating what seems like a floating road that is made out of big and circular red balloons. Each bridge was artistically designed in the shade of red and arced to mimic the traditional style. Shops held up huge signboards that filled the sides of the road, big names in English and Chinese symbols plastered on top. The buildings were mostly made of concrete, as it was quite obvious that these building were here for a lot of years based on the worn out effect. Additionally, continuous walking resulted to us passing under a lot of arches that served as labels. One of which stood tall and strong in a shade of gray with a label of “Ongpin North Bridge” in a gold bold letters along with its Chinese translation. The place was very rich in their history that this culture, architecture, and designs still carried on throughout the years and generations.

We finally found a tricycle, its green cart was able to accommodate my mom and I. The driver, on the black bike, was very friendly as well since the ride was considerably cheap. Instead of giving us a fixed price, he asked us how much we would want to offer, and P40 each was all that was needed for him to agree to take us from Ongpin street to Soler street, the area of the shopping malls. The bike engine roared as he made a U-turn on the tight street of Ongpin. Along the bumpy roads, he skillfully dodged the traffic and maneuvered through cars, taking us to the final destination that was faster than expected. We descended the tricycle and with a crooked smile, he warmly said “Ingat! (Take care!)” before driving away to find other passengers.

At that moment, we were standing on the middle of a load full of malls. The Chinese gives so much value for money and luck that they have malls that are named after lucky numbers such as 168, 888, 999. As we visited them, endless rows of colorful stalls lined up in front of me. Chiang ge or Divisoria, as they called it, is a place filled with vendors selling a variety of goods that are different from one another. And oh, don’t get me started about the shopping. The biggest reason why we always go here is because it is a shopping haven for me where I can buy them cheap. Because of their low wholesale prices, we always buy in bulk for occasions such as Christmas gift shopping. Lines of gems and gold-plated jewelries shine under the light, appliances and devices such as lamps and signboards operate to attract buyers, and colorful stationaries and toys fill up the vision to make people stop by and interested Racks of clothes was presented in so much options, from denim to cotton. All are available in reasonable prices, perfect as a gift or for my own use. Shopping was also available on the streets as we stepped outside of the mall. Huge colored umbrellas marked the posts of different stalls and stands along the side of the street. Like a market, they sell a variety of fresh fruits and vegetable wherein my mom always had a friendly competition or bargain with the seller of lowering the price as much as possible, a term we call tawad. They spoke in a very familiar Fukien, a dialect that both my family and some of the sellers are very fluent in. All I can say is that it was definitely a complete source of anything one can think of and a shopping haven available for all.

The best part of Binondo, however, was present in every aspect of the experience - its people. From waiters who showed much courtesy in their service and welcoming, to tricycle drivers and friendly vendors, the people in Binondo make you feel the warmth and homeliness of the place. There was no discrimination but only harmony of two cultures or races, Filipino and Chinese, interacting and living together to create the amazing experience possible right here in Binondo. A third tricycle ride was just enough to give a perfect ending to the entire trip as I passed by and had a last glimpse of the shopping malls, the street vendors, the red Chinese plump lanterns along the lamp posts, the North Ongpin bridge that was still filled with people, and the big poster from the Noodles Everyday restaurant where I can still catch the smell la mian before I went home.

There is a reason why this place is given the name of Chinatown. Binondo proves its ability to give visitors to feel like they traveled to another country in its easiest ways. With just around P1000, one can experience China right here at the heart of the Philippines. Who needs a plane when you can just use three tricycle rides, right? Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Daphne

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A Taste of Binondo (With The Blend of Various Cultures)

By Renee Nicole M. Calingo

Upon crossing the familiar Jones Bridge, one usually drives down Quintin Paredes Road and continues on with their journey; whether it is to turn right or turn left, driving straight ahead or choosing to park nearby and ride a ferry. Usually, I’d turn right after passing the old BPI building and head towards Escolta to spend time with my Tita Carla at her salon, Maria Carla. It was either there or the route headed towards Divisoria. Growing up, we would only pass Binondo and I would only hear stories about it from my Lola who’d walk around the area and buy food while we were getting our hair done or shopping around the aforementioned district. She would tell us about the places my Lolo used to take her on dates, talking about the things they would do and the food they got to taste.

If one were to take the conventional route, they could continue down Paredes Road and pass through the Binondo Chinatown arch, one of the most famous landmarks within the area.

Binondo dates back to the 1580s, wherein the Spanish had created a settlement for the Chinese to stay. It was there that they forced the inhabitants to convert to Catholicism, or else they’d be executed. During the American occupation, it served as the center of business and commerce; housing old movie theatres and office buildings.

My adventure started when I got dropped off at Lucky Chinatown Mall, along with a friend. Exploring the said mall would leave little space for adventure. With that in mind, my friend and I headed towards the famed Binondo Church.

Binondo Church is easily one of the oldest landmarks in the area, having been founded by Dominican priests in 1596. For more than 400 years, the church has witnessed events such as earthquakes, wars, and invasions; having been destroyed or bombed before being rebuilt to its current state.

The landmark served as a meeting point for our small group to meet. We entered the church to offer quick prayers despite the ongoing mass before us. Afterwards, we left the inside to head meet with the others; standing next to a store filled with religious items and artifacts. It was there that our pair turned into a group of four. We decided to tour the area together, excitement in our hearts despite the sweltering heat that the afternoon sun brought.

Given that we were at Binondo at around 11 in the afternoon, we decided to eat lunch nearby before exploring it further. We chose to eat at Tasty Dumpling, as per recommendation of our friend. We entered the small restaurant that was a street away from the church, with the intention of tasting the dumplings they served. Despite its name, they only had two types of dumplings (kuchay and regular dumplings); which only differed when steamed or fried. Personally, I’d recommend the kuchay dumplings rather than the original ones; to which my friends would agree with. Kuchay dumplings differ from restaurant to restaurant, but is composed of a main ingredient of vegetables.

After eating, we decided to explore the area and find materials to use for our essay. We started with walking through Ongpin Street, eyes wide with fascination for the old city. We had no idea of where to go except for places filled with food. When asking one another if we read about any places to visit, we would list down names of restaurants or food that we had read on the internet the evening before. With that being the circumstance, we’ve decided to simply walk around a bit aimlessly. Maybe we’d find an adventure along the way?

We decided to head to Eng Bee Tin to grab sweets that we could bring home. That, and we knew of a milk tea store near it. With that as our goal, we stepped out of Tasty Dumpling and began to walk towards Ongpin Street, where the big Eng Bee Tin branch was supposed to be around.

We walked by the back of the church, heading toward the aforementioned street. As we turned a corner, we noticed a sole small stall that sold flowers of various kinds; baby’s breath, variations of carnations and much more. Although, the prices weren’t relatively cheap, ranging from 200 to 250 Philippine Pesos compared to the bundles sold at Dangwa; they were all very beautiful and fresh, a good and simple gift one can give to people.

After passing the little flower stall, we continued to walk down Ongpin Street. Decorating the streets were lanterns of red. We walked much further, passing by creeks and various stores that sold charms, jades and much more. We reached Eng Bee Tin with the sun high in the sky, shining down brightly to all those below it. It was my first time within the place, the Chinese designed exterior and interior blowing me away. The aroma of the baked goods wafted through the air, beckoning people to buy the products. I grew hungry despite having eaten just minutes ago, the smell of the various food from both floors causing my mouth to water. However, I was told that there would be much cheaper products around Binondo with almost the same products, so I resisted the urge to buy. Besides, Eng Bee Tin has numerous branches over the country from where I could buy.

We moved to the second floor of the place where they sold local products, such as rattan bags, jeepney toys and little wallets, to name a few things. I remember my friend mentioning how strange it was. They sold local products made by Filipinos, alongside Chinese food and delicacies. It made us think about Binondo, a Chinatown within the Philippines. Wasn’t it that way as well? Chinese cultures and traditions, co - existing with Filipinos and their lives?

It was after that, that we decided to leave the place and go buy milk tea at the store next to Eng Bee Tin, named Tea Brothers. We have the opportunity to buy four flavours, one for each in the group. With that, we decided to taste as much as we could get our hands on. For someone who loves milk tea, I’d recommend the Red Thai Milk Tea. If you prefer something with a taste of Matcha, then Matcha Thai Milk Tea would be a better option.

After buying, we had no where else to go. All we knew were restaurants and food shops, but we no longer wanted to eat. We began to walk down the long street of Ongpin for a place we could explore and see. As we walked, we found shops that sold charm bracelets and jaded statues, in front of MetroBank. Growing up, I was told that jades were supposedly for good health. My friend told us a story of her grandmother who had a jade bracelet and never took it off, even when she slept or took a bath. Apparently, there is a belief that jades protected an individual from disasters or evil, and can also bring good luck.

We attempted to converse with the person selling the charms and bracelets about the shop, asking what the different items were and what they were for. She would answer in simple short sentences, saying the prices and what they were in general. We spotted a bowl that seemed to be part of a ritual ( of which we could not take pictures of because the seller told us not to ), and asked her what it was. She told us it was to bless the charms. But because we were curious, we attempted to pry more answers from her; did doing so ward away the spirits? Was it like blessing the items? But she could no longer answer us, since she herself did not seem to know as well.

We left the shop to head towards the one next to it that sold ampao and incense, along with other red items colored items. I knew ampao as the little red envelopes that were to be given to a person once it contained money. My friend told us that incense is what they would burn and use, as part of a prayer to Buddha.

We would ask the sellers what an item within their shop meant or what its purpose was. Despite being Filipinos and being able to understand what we were saying, they had no clue. Were they only vendors, selling products they did not know about? People whom, didn’t seem to be familiar with the cultures or traditions that their items held? And yet, it  seemed that it was solely a source of income for them; not that we minded. We just wanted to understand this place further; how a place filled with Chinese cultures and traditions had co-existed and blended harmoniously into the lives of the Filipinos living here.

It was during those moments of walking in and out of open shops, that another of our friend decided to join us; bringing along with her, her dad who was familiar with the place.

They led us towards the first Lido restaurant, to which we weren’t able to eat in. We simply took pictures and talked to a few people working within the store before leaving and continuing on our little trip. Along the way, we were lead to stores that sold authentic and real watches such as those of Casio and the like. Other stores that we’d pass sold stones of different types, along with more good luck charms and what not.

We ended up walking towards Carvajal; wherein the usually crowded area was a little less crowded, most likely because it was around 2PM and what we’d normally call as siesta time. Siesta is a Spanish term that refers to afternoon naps, especially in countries wherein the climate is warm.

We walked down the narrow area, finding different vegetables and eateries on both our sides. There were also shops of clothes and electronic devices, along with the famous Quik Snack that I grew up tasting, every time my Lola would bring us take outs.

It was after walking down the street that our group of five became four again. We did not want to go home yet as the sun was still high up and we did not yet feel the tiredness from walking around all day. To pass the time, we decided to continue exploring the town aimlessly; finding ourselves entering clothing shops that ranged from 1, 500 pesos to 3, 000 pesos! It came as a surprise to us to find such expensive items within the area, but we were told they were imported from another country. We also almost entered a casino, following the signs to a place that said, “Binondo Arcade”. We thought it was going to be like one of those arcade places that not a lot of people use these days. So the moment we went up to the receptionist, I remember her looking at us with confusion as to why a bunch of teenagers would want to enter the casino. We quickly thanked her, and left a bit mortified at what we almost did.

With no where else to go, we decided to head back to the part of Ongpin street that we left behind; where Chuan Kee was. They sold 10 pieces of Xiao Long Baos for 180 pesos, which were relatively well - priced given that a lot of Xiao Long Baos I knew were a lot more expensive. Finding no place to seat at Chuan Kee, we headed upstairs to Cafe Mezzanine; what they call, “A Fireman’s Coffeeshop”. As soon as we entered the place, we were greeted with trophies and clippings of old newspapers; along with different hats of firemen. There, we were able to order our long awaited Xiao Long Baos (which were more expensive than those at Chuan Kee). Xiao Long Baos were a kind of steamed Chinese dimsum that contained broth, along with its meat. It was traditionally served in a bamboo steaming basket called Xiao Long, wherein it got its name from. As we sat down, there was a collective sigh from the entire group as we finally felt the soreness of our feet from having walked around nearly the entire area.

I got picked up from Cafe Mezzanine to head back home, feet tired from walking around nearly all afternoon. While lulling myself to rest, I was reminded of the few conversations I had in between with my friends; of how Binondo made us feel as if we were in another country. It was strange thinking about it that way, given how we should’ve no longer felt as if we were a stranger to somewhere we inhabited. Not only that, but to see how centuries of Chinese cultures were able to co-exist and weave it’s way into Filipino culture and traditions, and vice versa.

I like to believe that Binondo is a beautiful place to explore. If you’re looking for somewhere to spend your food trip on certain Chinese cuisine in, this may be a good place since the food ranges from dimsums to Hainanese chicken to Sweet & Sour Pork and so much more. If you’re looking for historical landmarks or beautiful places of scenery, this may not be the place for you. Even for us who were looking for places such as those, were at first left unfulfilled of not finding any except the Binondo Church. However, Binondo has its own magic of sorts. Despite not having the places we expected them to have, we ended up finding how culture and traditions shape places. We ended up finding, that maybe a lot of beautiful things aren’t in how it looks externally, but from the presence and aura that surrounds you as you explore the place; one that makes you feel as if there is always an avenue for adventure and excitement in a place that can also be your home. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Renee

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BinondHoe

By Alfred Keegan S. Bernardo                  

   It’s really ironic that I was born without an ounce of Chinese blood but all the things I prefer are Chinese. The food, history and of course, the guys. And when I heard that we were tasked to go to Binondo for a writing activity, you bet that my little chinito loving heart was internally screaming in excitement.

    Our expedition for hot chinito guys, I mean for an authentic chinese experience rather started along the busy sidewalks of Vito Cruz on one Tuesday afternoon as me and my friends Dana, Emiliane, Lianne, and Trisha waited for our ride which was provided by our opulent friend Trisha. As the big black SUV arrived we quickly hopped in and much to our surprise Tita Jasmine (Trisha’s mom) was by the passenger seat and cheerfully said that she would be accompanying us all throughout our whole Binondo Escapade as our tour guide which I was very grateful to her for.  The trip took about 30 minutes with the usual Manila Traffic. Our vehicle passed through different eskenitas and shortcuts to expedite our trip and save time which actually worked because we arrived at Binondo sooner than we expected.

   Binondo is the oldest Chinatown in the world and has been standing for 425 years strong. From far away it almost seems like a mixture of modern high rise condominiums and old baroque style buildings that reminded me of the buildings in old Europe There were also oriental style buildings with red roofs that resembled Buddhist temples. This urban sprawl was teeming with Chinese owned businesses, authentic Hokkien restaurants, and various kinds of vendors selling all kinds of goods and produce. But I’ve heard that there are also Traditional Chinese Drugstores selling illegal animal parts, shops that sell all types of charms and bracelets, and of course, cute chinito guys that you can take home to your parents.

  The driver dropped us off at Quentin Paredes street and which I’ve noticed had banks scattered all around throughout the area. BDO, EastWest, BPI, you name it and they’re all here literally a few meters from each other. But then I remembered that Binondo was once the Financial and Banking district before Makati and Ortigas we’re even established and so that explains the prevalence of banks and different financial institutions along Quentin Paredes.

Our ride dropped us off at the entrance of one tiny street. Carvajal was definitely a street that had a lot of stories to tell. With its orange-tiled pathway with specs of white and diversity of the vendors, you’d think that it was a wet market on the street.

    As we walked along Carvajal, there were different scents and sights all around but the most overpowering came from one particular fruit, the durian. The smell was obnoxious as it wafted all around and to our noses which I wasn’t really happy about. Aside from Durian, the fruit stalls also had pineapples, papayas, bananas, mangoes and other varieties of fruits. The vibrant colors of the fruits almost created a sort of a mural of tropical colors of yellow, green and red. The street also had vendors that sold all kinds of seafood in baby blue buckets with cardboard squares where their prices were written on. Snails, eels, sea cucumbers and different types of fishes were being sold all along Carvajal. It was hard to not be impressed by the variety and selection of produce and products sold along one measly narrow street.

    Among the stalls and vendors was a wooden door with glass windows that offered you a sneak peak inside one of  Binondo’s hidden gems which was Quik-Snack.  

    As we opened the door we were greeted with the aroma of spices and different scents that we could not quite distinguish. Quik- Snack is the restaurant if you want to be served with the most authentic and tastiest Hokkien food in all of Manila. But surprisingly the design and decor of the restaurant was not quite, er Chinese per sé. It had plain white tiled floors that were squeaky clean and the wall on the upper half was a cream colored white while the bottom half was made of exposed brick. It almost seemed like one of those restaurants from the spanish colonial era that was misplaced in the middle of Chinatown.

     The restaurant had a variety of dishes to offer us. From noodles to soups and appetizers you can see that there’s a wide array of ingredients that they use and they even had vegetarian options!  There were some recognizable dishes such as Lumpiang Shanghai, Chopsuey and Leche Flan but there were also some Hokkien Dishes such as Kuchay-ah, Stir-Fried Mi Noodles and Oyster Cakes. The prices ranged from 150 to 300 pesos depending on what the main ingredient is. Tita Jasmine suggested that we try the Iced Coffee with Ice cream since it is one of their best sellers so I opted to order one for myself and Dana decided to get one too since we both love and adore coffee. It took us quite a bit of time to choose what to order but eventually after some questions I’ve decided to get the Stir Fried Mi Noodles that had Pork and Shrimp. My friends decided to order noodles as well but in different variants with different ingredients.

    While waiting for our food to be served I was curious to know about the history of Quik-Snack so I asked the cashier who was a middle aged guy with a receding hairline and he told me about the owners of the restaurant which was actually from Cebu and and they moved to Manila in the 60’s where they established Quik-Snack and it was passed on from the owner’s grandson in the 80’s and he was still managing it up till today which was quite fascinating since the restaurant had different generations of management.

     After about 10 minutes our dishes were served to us and surprisingly they all looked quite appetizing and unique. The first one to be served was Emiliane’s dish which were long thin white noodles served on a bowl with a broth that was almost clear and hers had different toppings such as spring onions, leeks and parsley which was quite an attractive garnish. Me, Dana and Trisha ordered the same dish but with different ingredients. Trisha’s noodles had chicken and Dana’s had Beef Sate Sauce. But I’d like to think that my order looked the most sumptuous with the different colored toppings that were on top of the noodles. The pink juicy shrimp, crunchy green cabbage, perfectly sautéd pork and crispy bits of garlic.

    As i took my first bite of the dish, I was greeted with a strong savory taste that instantly impressed me. The combination of the different textures and tastes of the toppings with the well-cooked noodles and savory sauce created this symphony of flavors and textures in my mouth that was almost too good to be true. I did not hesitate to tell the whole table on how good the noodles were and everybody seemed to agree with me. The oyster cakes that Tita Jasmine ordered were also good. The contrast of the eggs and oysters with a bit of ketchup was just the bomb dot com and it paired well with everyone’s noodles. As we were in the middle of our feast our Iced Coffees arrived and boy did they look good. Two of my favorite things in one? And as we expected it was the perfect dessert/drink that complimented all the dishes we ate perfectly.

    The best part of the lunch? Tita Jasmine paid for everything and I wanted to protest and tell her that we’ll pay but she told us that it was her treat and we just could not argue with her because who doesn’t want a free meal right? After Tita Jasmine paid for our meal, we left Quik-Snack with full bellies and satisfied cravings for a full on authentic Hokkien meal.

     We turned left to the other end of Carvajal towards Ongpin which was the main artery or passageway of Binondo. We went to check out the flagship store of Eng Bee Tin one of the most popular brands of Chinese treats and delicacies. As we approached the facade of the building you can already tell that it’s gonna be an explosion of yellow, red and purple and boy I was not wrong. Everything in the store was either yellow and red. The red pineapples hanging by the ceiling, red dragon statues by the entrance the shiny foiled yellow walls that were almost blinding. As we were checking the stuff up in the second floor we came across a barrel man. If you don’t know what the barrel man is, it’s a wooden carving of a man inside a barrel. Sounds innocent right? But what you don’t know is that you can remove the barrel and a surprise will be springing into life. Let’s just say that it’s big, long and hard as wood .

    We traversed through Ongpin and we specifically stopped at this one store that was selling different types of Chinese snacks and drinks that I could not recognize since all the labels were in Mandarin. The store also had keychains and bracelets made up of different colored stones. There were also these weird paper like stacks that had white paper and red chinese characters drawn on them. Trisha told me that these were sort of offered to your dead ancestors and when you burn them, it serves as their money in the afterlife which was quite an interesting story and showed how much the Chinese respected their ancestors. As I glanced over at the counter I saw Tita Jasmine buying several circular containers that had dark wrinkly circles in them which I guess was dried fruit and to our surprise she handed one to each of us which shookt me to the core because she’s just so nice and generous.

  As we left the store stepped back into Ongpin something caught my eye. On the opposite side of the road was a tall Chinese guy that seemed to be in the middle of a phone call. He was definitely taller than 6 feet and had a good physique (yikes!). He had small thin eyes, an average sized nose and lips that looked so juicy. He didn’t have the sharpest features but whatever he had going on with his face was working. All of his features were sort of symmetrical and balanced everything out. He was neither too thin nor too fat he was in-between with a lil bit of muscle definition. I literally can’t even remember how I memorized his looks but I did. But well, I couldn’t really do anything about it so I just mustered all my willpower and moved on along to our next destination.

  Walking along the streets of Binondo didn’t really scare or bother me since I was with a group but also since the locals are not really sketchy so I didn’t have to worry about snatchers and holdapers which were usually present all around Manila. As we traversed through Ongpin, we arrived at an intersection where we transferred to another street named Sabino Padilla Street. It was lined with stores on both the sides of the street selling various things from charms to traditional Chinese medicine that were sold in strange looking pharmacies.

    On the way back to Trisha’s place, we passed by this Noodle and Siopao restaurant named Ling nam where they serve the freshest and tastiest siopaos in the whole of Manila. Tita Jasmine got about 8 pieces of Siopao and no doubt that she’ll probably give each one of us a piece. The inside of the restaurant was quite steamy and humid probably because of the steamer that’s used to cook the siopao and other dumplings. The steamy atmosphere created this veil of mystery that have the restaurant an almost ethereal feel which was cool to be honest.

    Trisha’s place was just by the end of Ongpin near the Carriedo LRT Station. It was almost sunset as we were walking along Ongpin towards Trisha’s place. The dwindling orange light shone all throughout and Ongpin and to the rest of Binondo giving the area a timeless glow. It was an eventful day indeed. We had class and headed to Binondo for a one-of-a-kind experience and boy did we get one (for free). From the diverse and authentic food to the cute chinitos just waiting to be discovered, and to those hidden charm shops and traditional pharmacies it was like any other ordinary day in Binondo but for us it was a feast for the eyes, ears and mouth (literally). We didn’t get a Chinito boyfriend but that’s okay because we got a wholesome experience in BinondHoe. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Keegan

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The Oxymoron of Ongpin

By Dana Gabrielle R. Benedicto

In the center of a bustling district lies a thriving street that meshes the past and the present of this nation. The dusty, stagnant highways of Manila could lead you to tourist spots and enshrouded treasures, each with their own charm and culture. Sometimes, it could lead you to a gate that holds a stark contrast to the gray urbanization that is Manila; to a brighter and more vibrant area, another culture on its own. It could lead you, as it has led me, to the world’s oldest Chinatown -- Binondo.

This enclave of traditional Chinese commerce, distinctly inhabited by Tsinoys or Filipino-Chinese, encompasses four Manila districts -- Quiapo, Santa Cruz, San Nicolas, and Tondo. Its large scope however, is not a deterrent for its streets to be heavily flocked; and for Ongpin Street, being one of the most renowned, attracting tourists and investors is an easy game.

From Taft, five of my friends, one of their mothers, and I drove to Binondo marveling at the shift of language in street signs and corporation signage. It was a subtle transition as most buildings were still structured similarly with those in other cities of Manila — grayscale and blocky. It was only when we entered the lane scattered with banks like UCPB and BDO with Chinese signs, and hopia stores like Polland, did it dawn that we truly are in Chinatown.

Just as the thought settled in, the driver stopped the car. This was our stop. I went down confused, immediately unsure of our itinerary and why we were stopping in the middle of the lane. For a moment I thought, is this Ongpin already? Good thing tita swooped in and answered my worries. “We’re going to walk from here!” she explained, as it seemed Ongpin’s heavy flock brings with them heavy traffic. A tingling of excitement surged through me. Walking for me, compared to driving, gives more room for adventure; a more personal feel of the place and its atmosphere.

“We walk through here,” she said, pointing in front.

Ahead from where the car dropped us, lies an eskinita. This is Carvajal Street. It is immediately distinct from the buildings outside with its vivid colors and heady aroma of fruits. Multiple wooden stalls line the sides of the buildings they intersected, and sunlight streams down through their multicolored awnings. Stalls of fruits, such as oranges, atis, lemons, and watermelons were arrayed across the alley; intermingling with nuts, dried mushrooms, and vegetables. Aside from the wet market, Carvajal also hosts eateries; a mix of Filipino and Chinese cuisine could be seen, with a few showcasing siopao, siomai, and noodles, while some with fried fish and menudo. Among the options, we tried a local favorite that features Chinese meals, Quik-Snack. One of the things I noticed at first glance upon the menu was the variety and the number of options in terms of noodles. They had three sections that only contained noodles -- Guisado, or stir-fried noodles, Noodle Soup, and Vegetarian Noodles. The second thing I noticed was that it didn’t offer fried chicken; or at least, did not name their meal as such. I find it rare for a fast-food joint, or any eatery to be frank, in this country not to offer it. My friends and I each ordered various noodles, their prices ranging from Php140 to Php 200, alongside their recommended iced coffee which is a tall glass of brewed coffee with lots of coffee jelly and a large scoop of ice cream. We also shared an order of kuchay ah or vegetable pie, which could be likened to empanadas stuffed with vegetables; a large fresh lumpia, oyster cakes, and finished with white fungus which felt quite stringy and tasted like black gulaman. Heading out of the restaurant full and fulfilled, we continued our walk along Carvajal. Multiple shops sprawled across that street, shifting from supplies stores like the Merriam Webster Bookstore, to those that feature charms and medicines. But Carvajal was not our main adventure that day. Swerving to the left at the end of this colorful alley led us to Yuchengco Street; and walking ahead, we finally saw the stretch that is Ongpin Street.

Before it was known as Ongpin, the street was called Calle Sacristia. This was mentioned in Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere itself, one of his books that sparked our countrymen to fight against the Spaniards. Interestingly, the man Ongpin was named after – Roman Ongpin, held a legacy quite similar to that of Rizal and Noli Me Tangere. He risked his reputation and safety in being a great businessman by tangibly aiding the revolutionaries who opposed the Spanish and American colonizers; by providing them finance, food, and a safe place to meet, even when he got detained. Today, Ongpin Street’s beauty could be compared to its eponym – that beyond their renown for business and commerce, are their richer history and culture.

At first glance, this busy area of Binondo had clearly manifested the traditional Chinatown I pictured in my mind. Scarlet Chinese lanterns with yellow knots hung around every store, and piles of bright red hóng bāo’s or money envelopes engraved with shiny golden calligraphy or symbols were displayed across storefronts. The prevalence of red and gold in the atmosphere was definitely observed.  

We stopped by a small grocery along the lane. A basket of century eggs alongside large packs of dry, brown, stringy objects which I found out to be meat floss would welcome you to the store. Charms and lanterns were once again displayed throughout the store, and jars of various candied fruits lined up the glass shelves. A wide selection of milks, sodas, and biscuits colorfully filled up a section of the place as well. As we were roaming around the store, looking in awe and wariness upon the products, tita suddenly bought each of us a jar of tsampoy. It seemed that none of us had tasted one before with the looks of astonishment and gratefulness from our faces.

After the grocery, we continued upon the lane and in the corner, we witnessed the oldest fast food chain in Chinatown -- Chuan Kee. The branch we saw was kept clean and fresh, and had customers here and there; I found it notable that though it is a truly old restaurant, the people behind it did not let it become run down. The continuous renovations and menu updates could be seen as the manifestation of the care and esteem the owners have for it.

Parallel to this fast food, just across the street, is the Blessed Lorenzo Ruiz Crusader’s Academy. With only a six-year difference in their time of establishment — the Academy in 1946 and Chuan Kee in 1940, it is humbling to witness the two renowned places still standing and functioning through time. This Filipino-Chinese school may not have been the oldest of its kind in Chinatown unlike Chuan Kee, yet both of them remaining in the service they uphold throughout the decades is commendable. Also, juxtaposed to the Academy was the famous Binondo Church whose facade took my breath away. Its iconic bell tower and the dome-shaped roofs across the skyline caught my eye. The Church’s slightly patched up, and rusty red and gray stone walls would remind you of its age; that this beauty has been standing since 1596.

Continuing the walk along Ongpin would then put you in between the Binondo Church and the two-storey Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli. I have heard of this Chinese delicacy shop for years, and even went to a few branches; but never have I beheld a hopia store as large as this one. But its size is not the only eye-catching factor with its violet exterior already a stark contrast to the redness of the stores and lanterns around. Upon entering its sliding glass doors, I got to walk on a miniature, artificial bridge that would lead me to the rest of the store. Then, I was welcomed by two floating Chinese dragons colored yellow and violet. Eng Bee Tin, since its establishment in 1912, became known for their traditional Chinese pastries; but aside from that, they personally take pride in being the innovators of the different hopia flavors. With this, my friends and I roamed around the first floor, checking out the wide variety of hopias, tikoys, and glutinous peanut balls; and taking advantage of their free tastes for custard hopia variants, such as buko and ube. Afterwards, we rode the escalator to check out the second floor which was a vast space with a section dedicated souvenirs, another to tables and chairs for eating and relaxing. The tokens they sell were a mixture of Filipino and Chinese products. For instance, jeepney-shaped keychains and the Barrel Man were arrayed alongside porcelain tea sets and small, golden lucky charms. The other section filled with tables and chairs were meant to be the dining area because not only is this an Eng Bee Tin store, but also a Hopia King Bakery one. In the center of this section is a large golden Buddha with whom customers take pictures with. I also found its ceiling beautiful to gaze upon as its lights, shaped like mooncakes, cast a warm yellow glow to the room.

Exiting Eng Bee Tin, we crossed the street towards the Crusader’s Academy and continued our Ongpin walk from there. It was in this direction that I saw an arc with a “Welcome to Manila Chinatown” banner hung in the center of the road.

Passing through the arc and a creek, we headed to another grocery whose name is too similar with Eng Bee Tin that it was hard to forget. A large red sign with a yellow bumblebee on one side welcomed us to “Bee Tin Grocery Inc.” Peanuts in a large barrel were being scooped and measured in front of me, and as I stepped down to go further into the shop, a startling smell of cartons and stored food greeted me. I headed to the nearest section which offered various candies, such as chocolate coins and White Rabbit. This was highly different from the other section of Bee Tin which consisted of packs of dried mushrooms and fruits, bundles of spices, and plastic bags of white and black fungus among others.

We continued our Ongpin walk from Bee Tin, noticing multiple stores selling lanterns, and statues of gods or animals for luck. Then we found and went inside a boutique with lucky charms of their own, because clothes’ shopping gives a feeling that it is an adventure in itself. There were plenty of designer clothes with designs that were either simple garments, or borderline avant-garde. Though shopping and trying out clothes is fun, the price like in this case is often unkind, and so we left empty-handed.

From the boutique, we noticed Chinese drug stores on the other side of the street. We decided to visit one next since we were fascinated by their names and by what they could offer. We went to the “Hong Kong Chinese Drug House.” Entering it gave me a new sight to behold -- bones of dead, flying lizards, horns, and shells among others were arrayed inside their glass drawers. Herbs I am not familiar with were being crushed and given to customers. I also noticed an encased golden herb cutter, which was used in 1938; that was also the year this drug house was established according to one of the counters. Not only did this place pass through approximately eight decades, but it also passed on as a business generation to generation within their family. A few steps from the HK Drug House, on the other street, was another medicinal store called the “Friendship Drug Store” which we stopped at for a bit.

Returning to the lane of the HK Drug House, we then passed by three elderlies seemingly managing the publication “New Southern Press.” Then we continued our walk to Salazar, a Chinese delicacy shop established in 1947, to buy each of our parents’ pasalubong such as hopias for Php 44 per 5 pieces, and almond gulaman for Php 40 each.

Afterwards, we went to a store that was filled with magic gourds and bracelets that claim to heal your illnesses, or to increase your wealth. This store even had a wishing bowl with instructions wherein you follow the chant, drop some coins, make a wish, close your eyes while you get a crystal. Each crystal has a color that represents what you have gained; for instance, if it is yellow then it says you would have money and happiness. After each of us tried the wishing well, we left the store and headed to a nearby eatery. This was one of those restaurants that lets the audience see how they prepare and cook their meals. That is why I was able to witness the steaming of their siomai and siopao, and how they roll out and cook their noodles. Tita treated us with a siopao each, and then we decided to walk to our friend’s home; this signaled the end of our Ongpin trip.

But it did not mark the end of my Ongpin adventure. Throughout our walk, Ongpin seemed to place me in another timeline, as if I was simply in ancient Chinatown. It was manifested in the red lanterns, the golden charms and statues, even in the sight and smell of dried fungus and fruit. But I could not help but notice how there were several contradictions or at least, contrasts, from the timeline Ongpin revealed to me. And as we retraced some of our steps, this revelation became more founded.

When I looked upon our last stop, the authentic siopao and noodle shop, it dawned on me that it was surrounded by new buildings instead of traditional shops. It was squeezed between stores of lighting fixtures and bathroom furniture; and a new high-rise building is being constructed in front of it. All of which did not fit the whole atmosphere of Chinatown. Going further to the store filled with sickness-preventing charms and chants, it was baffling to see large bottles of western medicines atop the shelf of the wishing well. Witnessing pills such as Garlic Oil and Uric Acid Control displayed beside golden dog and horse statues made me rethink about how much the owners trust their own statues and lucky bracelets.

Walking back Ongpin, I also found myself in the “Friendship Drug Store,” just a few meters from the Hong Kong Drug House. Their similar name and proximity however, did not equate to a similarity in their products. Where the latter sold dried up animal parts and herbs, the former presented Paracetamol and Neozep products. When I asked one of their counters why they sold western medicine unlike the other stores, she merely answered “Eh para kagaya ng Mercury.” From there it seemed that not only are they retailers of Mercury Drug Store, but also an intentionally close namesake.

The boutique along the way was revisited by my thoughts. In the midst of its glamorous clothes were lucky charms in forms of baskets filled with coins, and a tower of rolled up money. The sight of these in Chinatown did not surprise me; rather, it was the Sto. Niño juxtaposed by the charms. It held great contrast in the beliefs concerning such objects.  

A bit further down the Ongpin lane and I return to Bee Tin, a place which I hold with eager curiosity. How it mingled its variety of traditional spices, herbs, and mushrooms, with several Western brands such as Fritolay and Heinz. A short stroll further back would lead me to the locally loved Eng Bee Tin. This would immediately remind me of the air-conditioned building with sliding glass doors and escalators. How did this initially traditional and authentic business get to become something so physically western? It was not a degradation, but it seemed unfit among the local favorites and sites of Ongpin.  

Having my mind along that area compelled me to point out that in the midst of this highly traditional Chinese enclave, lies in contrast two distinctly Catholic infrastructures -- a church building and a school that shares the same faith. The Binondo Church and the Crusader’s Academy led me to think about how the religious beliefs and practices of the people there go together.

Nearing the end of my retracing, I am back in the small grocery we first entered. The first official Ongpin stop to which I owe the credit of making me notice the blatant contrast of the place I am in. Along the display of drinks were several sodas of Chinese brands; but I recognized a few cans of Coca-Cola which had both its Chinese and English names etched. It was a minute observation, but it struck a chord on how westernization starts, and sticks, with the little things.

Witnessing this traditionally Filipino-Chinese enclave get seeped in by the Western culture was surely fascinating. But it made me rethink if Ongpin’s authentic culture could still be preserved, or would it continuously intersperse with, or even shift to others.

Bidding goodbye to Ongpin, I returned to the vivid Carvajal which was a place of contrast in itself. Old Chinatown hole-in-the-wall eateries and lines of pickled fruits were juxtaposed with luminescent optical shops and drug stores. Then finally, I’m back in the entrance of the flocked and brightly-colored street; where facades of western infrastructures block the blurs of color that is Ongpin. Whether as a form of protecting the magic behind its walls, or as a form of subtly seizing it. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/Dana

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Luck at Every Turn

By Christine Emiliane C. Baylosis 

It wasn’t the Chinese New Year or the Mooncake Festival, and yet, stepping into Binondo felt like a Chinese spectacle in itself. Deli stores, bakeries, restaurants, drug stores, noodle parlors, I thought I already knew what was to be expected as I stepped into these establishments, but no, they threw me into a loop! Each glance in every direction would reward you a glimpse of red oval-shaped hanging lanterns and worn stone lion statues guarding the entrance of various shops. I had to pause, and shake my brain for any bit of info, any bit of stock knowledge I had from reading tabloids and watching reality shows, to remember what these red lanterns and golden charms that adorned the entirety of Binondo meant. Suddenly, in the corner of my eye, I caught the golden glint bouncing off from a shiny maneki neko. With its chubby plastic paw waving at me, I already had a hint that I’d be remembering a bit of feng shui that day.

I went to Binondo with a few of my friends. At first, the plan was Dana, Keegan, Tams and I would go and explore the place by ourselves. However, the fear of getting lost or getting hold-upped got the best of us, and we had to let Lianne and Trisha, our beloved Chinese friends, tag along with our adventure to the world’s oldest Chinatown. We also had Trisha’s mom, Auntie Jasmine, accompany us. With that, we were able to save a few pesos since we got to hitch a ride with her. After passing through Jones Bridge, Manong Driver stated that we were already near our destination. A couple of minutes passed, I looked out the window, and I could already see the stark difference of Binondo from the rest of the districts of Manila. Chinese characters stood out from commercial establishments, red hanging lanterns lined the streets, people where bustling in and out of shops, carrying goods that I didn’t recognize at the time.

We made our stop at the intersection of Quintin Paredes Road lined with commercial banks and loaning companies and the narrow tarp-covered Carvajal Street. After leaving most of our things in the car, in fear of being victims of pickpockets, our group stepped into the colorful Carvajal Street with an eating destination in mind. The first thing that came into my mind was, this place looked like a market alley. It was like a portion of a wet market was plucked and put in the middle of this street, but at least the floor was paved with floor tiles and was dry, so it’s a plus that it wasn’t really a wet market situation! Vendors called out as they laid their merchandise in their shabby stalls that lined the street. The citrus smell of fruits clashed with the reeking smell of fish as we passed customers picking fruits from piles of fresh oranges, apples, melons, and bananas. After a few steps, I now knew where the stench was coming from. Plastic trays of black shiny eels, dried spiny sea cucumbers, gasping fish of every size and color sat on tables guarded by vendors eating their lunch from plastic plates. Another couple of steps and there we were, in front of a restaurant called Quik-Snack which was recommended by Lianne and Trisha.

At first glance, Quik-Snack was an unassuming establishment, with its sign nowhere to be seen unless you look up and ignore the various colored tarps that were covering the street. But after pushing the small glass door and going inside, the restaurant had a sort of calming ambiance as its patrons filled the tables and chattered about as they waited for their meals. The restaurant had some sort of modern vintage design, dark brown tables and black metal seats along with walls covered in either black and white designs or sepia colored paintings and pictures. Only a few seconds passed by, and Lianne had already found and greeted relatives who were eating at the place.

We then took a table in front of the counter. I looked around the cashier and saw a glass display of packed chilled desserts beside a golden cat that seemed to be waving me a hello, stuck in a never-ending cycle of greeting. A quick recollection came over me, it was called a maneki neko or a Lucky Cat. Although it is of Japanese origins, it was still popular in the Chinese culture. If it weren’t, I sure wouldn’t be seeing so much around here. They say that it beckoned good luck, and if its right paw was raised, it invited fortune and money. However in this case, its left paw was raised, and I think the maneki neko has done its job, because the left paw signified the attraction of customers. A waitress then popped in to take our orders. After a few moments, Lianne returned from her short talk with her relatives, took a seat and gave the waitress her order, and later on remarked, “I swear, we’re going to meet more relatives later.”  

Chatters in a mix of Chinese and Filipino droned in the air as we waited for our orders. I looked around and noticed that most of the restaurant’s patrons were adults, engaging in their own seemingly serious conversations. Where were the kids, I wondered. Their taste buds probably still doesn’t appreciate the food, and had their own picky preference, just like I did when I was a kid; preferring fast-food giants like McDo or Jollibee over other restaurants.

Within a few minutes, we got to enjoy our food. For an affordable price, we got to taste such flavor and umami from what we ordered. With the help of Auntie and her expert comments on which food was which, I was able to order a bowl of prawn and pork noodle soup… and boy, did it really hit the spot with its light hearty broth and firm noodles! I also got to taste the orders of my classmates, since we kind of agreed to taste every food that was laid out unto the table before us. I can’t really be a good judge for the rest of the food we ordered since it is the first time I got to taste authentic Chinese cooking, but I found the savory miki bihon guisado with spicy sate sauce, flavorful beef stir-fried noodles, crunchy kangkong with garlic, well-seasoned special oyster cake, and the fully-stuffed pastry called kuchay ah to be very delectable. The Chinese flavoring and seasoning weren’t entirely foreign to me, since some of them kind of reminded me of the pansit and lomi I usually get to eat back at home, and I truly found this to be a terrific eating experience! For an affordable price, I was content and happy, and our appetites have been wonderfully satisfied. We were ready to go explore!

From there, we went to Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz. I got to see a glimpse of the centuries-old Binondo Church also known as the Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz, as it stood at the intersection of Quintin Paredes road and Ongpin Street. With this historic stop, it somehow signified the start of our journey along the famed Ongpin Street. The church was accented with a burnt red color scheme that stood against the dark granite, and had an angular structure and straight lines dominate the church’s design. It had a bell tower from the 16th century, and it was still standing high and tall, seemingly keeping in reach with the heavens above. This church gave a glimpse of Binondo’s rich history. The story of Binondo started way back before the Spaniards came, this place was already considered as a hub for Chinese merchants to barter and trade with Filipino natives. However, it was only established during 1594 by Spanish Governor Dasmarinas as a settlement for Chinese immigrants who converted to Catholicism. This probably explains why churches were present in Binondo. From there, it continued to thrive until the 19th century. Binondo was considered to be the country’s prime economic hub under the American occupation. All types of businesses run by the Filipino-Chinese flourished during these times, however, many of Binondo’s establishments were decimated after World War II. However, not all is lost, as this church stands as a testament that Binondo continues to stand strong and be a home of the Filipino-Chinese culture that has been honed for centuries.

Later on, Auntie then told us a tidbit of information to our clueless group of wannabe tourists, excluding our Chinese friends of course! She said that if Binondo Church was the starting point, the Santa Cruz Church marked the end. Also known as the Archdiocesan Shrine of the Blessed Sacrament, the 17th century mission-style church was located at Carriedo, near the end of Ongpin Street. As it housed the statue of Our Lady of the Pillar with its baroque ornamentation, it was a sight to see.

Auntie also then shared that during her time, there were kalesas in this place. It was a shame that now, only a few existed, and that we had to walk under the scorching heat of the summer sun, moving away from Binondo Church’s soothing shade and straight into what Ongpin Street had in store for us.

Looking back at the hulking granite frame of the church, a simple thought couldn’t escape me. It was such a thought to ponder on, that despite all the Chinese trinkets here and there, despite the lucky charms and statues, despite the stark difference of the atmosphere the place exuded from what I am used to, there was still a sight that was familiar to me. A lot of people still went to Church, be it a quick stop to pray or wait for the scheduled Mass, they still had time to spend in reverence with God. Despite the telltale red and gold ornaments of luck and fortune, the wooden cross was still as important. Centuries have passed and Catholic faith still permeates the otherwise steadfast stronghold of Chinese culture in Binondo.

A few steps ahead and a famed Chinese deli store was just around the corner, and let me tell you, I was honestly surprised to see the store itself. You’re in for a treat! Eng Bee Tin’s modern design was unexpected, it looked like a store you would see in a mall with air conditioning and bright displays. A pair of huge dragons hung inside near the glass entrance doors. One was a plum violet dragon with an accent of silver accessories here and there and a golden yellow one with its own flashy red adornments. Their multi colored eyes looked like something you would see in a character who’ve bumped their head into something in children’s shows during the 90’s. They also had these fluffy eyebrows that scrunched together and their mouths were also wide open, ready to protect and ward off any evil wandering spirits and draw as much good luck as it can to bestow upon the establishment. We spent a few minutes looking through the rows of hopia, tikoy, mooncake, and other Chinese delicacies displayed on white polished counters that were really cold to touch! Later on, I felt the eyes of the dragons on my back as we pushed the glass doors open and left the store.

After setting our sights on various stores along the street, we stopped and went inside Hong Kong Chinese Drug Store, one of the oldest drug stores in the place. Keegan and I looked in the eyes, and my expression of excitement and curiosity was mirrored into his. This drug store wasn’t the usual drug store you would usually see anywhere in the country! At the right side of the entrance was a huge glass cabinet that encased a stuffed pangolin, along with engraved tusks and gold coins. A golden elephant was present in the collection. With its huge golden sturdy body and its trunk raised high, it served as a guardian that brought good luck, protection, and victory. Next to the collection was a long glass display of the drug store’s merchandise. Some looked like nilagang mani and some looked like tuyo, but at closer inspection, they clearly weren’t. There was a pile of dried flying lizards with their appendages tied in a barbecue stick here, dried and rigidly straight seahorses there. A woman who was wearing dozens of lucky birthstone jewelries on her neck and wrists kept pointing at the rows of jars of unknown herbs and dried animals. The jars’ bulbous bodies showed dried and shriveled black mushrooms, yellow spongy-like fungi, stacked bird’s nest, tiny dried crabs along with a white piece of paper with incomprehensible words written Chinese placed in the middle of the jar.  Who would have thought that these things could actually cure diseases? I’d like to see these fascinating Chinese medicine and drugs in action! The woman’s white camisole top was unable to keep up with her movements and it failed to hide the red splotches of the telltale ventosa suctioning cups on the skin of her back, as she kept pointing at the jars containing various Chinese medicinal substances. After getting what the woman wanted, Dana got a chance to speak with the shopkeeper by the counter. The rest of the group then got to ask the shopkeeper some questions and she shared that this was a family owned drug store, and was since established during 1938, which is a pretty long time. The number of shoppers there was already a testament of how this drug store built its trust over the years.

Right beside the drug store were a trio of stores that Auntie quickly recognized. The stores Hong Hwi Trading, New Victory Trading and New Southern Press stood side by side. Patrons visited them in hopes of finding small gifts and trinkets to give away during famed Chinese weddings and engagement parties. Tea sets, blankets, table cloths, and every known traditional Chinese gifts, these stores were sure to have. They even had their own guardian that faced their establishments, a huge three-legged toad made of jade. This toad was known as a charm to bring on wealth, and it had this huge Chinese coin in its mouth so that it could probably attract its fellow coins and fortune. I can’t help but notice that it looked so regal, despite its worn edges and dusty corners, as it stood by the stores it was guarding.

Opposite the stores was another drug store, but this time around, it was a bit different with the previous drug store that was full of dried herbs and animals and faintly smelt of incense. A quick word with the shopkeeper was all it took, and we kind of understood why it was a bit different. She shared that they were trying to copy Mercury Drug Store. That would explain why the store was full of boxes of pills and medicine labeled in Chinese characters. On top of the counter sat a golden statue of a Laughing Buddha, believed to grant people material wealth, with all the happiness and spiritual wealth the Buddha showed with its widespread laugh and its bulging belly. It could also probably serve as a reminder for people on how to take life easy and joyfully, if diabetes didn’t get them first.

We would walk upon another store, this time it specialized in lucky plants. Soothing music emanated from the establishment, and the smell of burning incense wafted in the air. There were a lot of plants I didn’t recognize, but some stood out as I recalled my mother buying them whenever Chinese New Year was around. There was the Money Tree that had round leaves that resemble the shape of coins, that of course, was for attracting wealth to the household. There was also the Lucky Bamboo where the number of stalks it had in the arrangement determined the good luck you would have. Seeing these cute potted plants with bright red ribbons wrapped in its base, I should probably buy Mommy some of these the next time I visit here. She would love them!

Our next stop was the famed Salazar Bakery, built since 1947. It had this homey atmosphere and you can smell the fresh baked pastries and bread the moment you enter the bakery. People were filling their shopping baskets with dozens of siopao, cuapao, and mongo bread wrapped in plastic, as well as hopia of different flavors. This place was a perfect for destination for some freshly baked pasalubong! Suddenly, I remembered I had to buy my own pasalubong, so I bought two packs of hopia, one was ube flavored for my Dad and one mongo flavored for my Mom. Tams and Dana followed suit, and a little while later we fell in line by the counter. As I gave my purchase to the cashier to scan and bag the items, a white porcelain maneki neko greeted me this time around. While the golden Lucky Cat symbolized wealth and prosperity, this little white cat symbolized purity and happiness. It also had its both paws raised, meaning that it was beckoning both customers and money and the protection of the business. I might even say that this cheeky white cat looked extra happy when my classmates and I left the store with our own bags of delicious hopia.

We traversed more shops and establishments along the way. We visited more drug stores, restaurants, and such. But one shop stood out from the rest, it had Chinese instrumental music blasting through its speakers. The shop was the motherlode, well, one of the motherlodes of all the lucky charms and feng shui trinkets I found all over my visit in Binondo. White lion statues stood guard at the entrance. These white Chinese guardian lions were also called Foo Dogs, and they were known to stop anyone with malicious intent from entering the household they were guarding and served as protectors that keep all the negative energy away. While these statues’ endeavor were to be praised, my jaw dropped when I saw the price tag that was taped behind them. You want protection from robbers and bad luck? Well, too bad, you had to fork out 30,000 pesos. I didn’t know that they were that expensive. My gaze shifted to the huge amethyst rock that stood as high as my shoulder. It looked like a tall kinder egg, just with a dark and a rather rough layer outside and a bunch of shining purple crystals that coated the inside of the geode. It didn’t have any price tag, but it must have cost a fortune. Talismans gongs, astrological forecasts, incense, lanterns, and buddhas were all over the place. There were various posters of the Chinese zodiac sign, and based on what year you were born, you could have a dragon, a snake, a pig, a rat and such to serve as your guardian animal.

There was a cute golden pig statue that symbolized wealth and abundance for the would-be owner, and it was worth only 3,850 pesos. As I read the descriptions of the various charms for sale, I couldn’t help but overhear a conversation near the counter. There was a Filipino couple. The woman was looking for three lucky objects, saying that she found a post on Facebook, and based from what she saw, she kept on insisting that she must have them. Despite her varying descriptions of the objects she wanted to have, the shopkeeper still couldn’t understand what she wanted. So this woman whipped out her phone and quickly searched the pictures on Google to tell the shopkeeper, “Yung isa, ito yun. Yung pink na babae na madaming kamay.”

Seeing the image, the shopkeeper nodded in recognition, “Ahhh ayan, sige titingnan ko.”

With the shopkeeper rummaging through a box of trinkets, the woman then asked, “Ano nga ba ulit yung ibig sabihin nun?”

The shopkeeper just shrugged and flashed a quick smile, “parang santo ata nila yan, yung madaming kamay.” It was such a contrast to the other shopkeeper at the opposite end of the shop, who seemed to be of Chinese descent. With the uncertain answer accompanied by a shy but well-meaning smile of the Filipina shopkeeper, came the difference of the stoic and serious answer of the Chinese shopkeeper when regarded with a customer’s question. In the end, however, the woman only got to buy a single trinket. A black onyx disk said to support economic success and reduce fear.

Not wanting her visit to be in vain, and after hearing her husband mutter, “ayan lang?” She asked the saleslady if she had a lucky pendant or bracelet for sale. The shopkeeper nodded and said, “Meron, meron kami. Pili ka lang dito”, she gestured to a box on the side of the glass display.

“Ay sige,” the woman said as she picked from various bracelets of different colors and held one that caught her eye. “Magkano?”

“3,800. Natural stone kasi yung pendant at bracelet.”

“Mmm,” was the only response the shopkeeper got from the woman. “Sige, ayun lang. Thank you,” the woman said after hooking her arm into her husband’s and dragged him towards the exit. I would have probably done the same thing too.

In a short while, it was also time for us to go back home. We’ve managed to walk along the whole length of Ongpin Street and visit different kinds of shops and stalls. We’ve said our goodbyes with each other, and I headed towards LRT Line 2 Recto station while the others went to the nearer LRT Line 1 Carriedo Station. As I walked further away from Binondo, buildings and signs written in Chinese characters were slowly dwindling with each step I took. Further along the way, I finally hear people speaking in full Filipino, and gone are the somehow incomprehensible conversations in half Chinese and half Filipino.  Looking up, the red hanging lanterns were all gone, and the never-ending traffic at Ongpin Street was left behind too.

Taking my seat in the cool carriage of the LRT 2, I still couldn’t shake off the feeling of amazement. It was such an eye-opening experience, and getting to see the epitome of the Chinese and Filipino culture that has been honed for centuries is something else entirely! I won’t forget how the buildings always had a shade of red and gold, how the establishments always had this peculiar scent of incense, how shops always had a guardian statue of some kind. Speaking of, it was so strange and amazing of how I kept seeing lucky charms and statues everywhere I went in Binondo. Be it a symbol of protection and wealth, a ward against evil spirits, these charms always had one thing in common. They bring in good luck. Those maneki nekos I keep seeing at the counters of shops did their job pretty well. They kept bringing customers in, every single shop I went to always had a patron milling around. Was it possible that it was probably their doing that I was able to get a chance and look around their shop? That these lucky charms somehow influenced fate and brought us to Binondo and travel through Ongpin Street safely? Did these charms also work two-way, perhaps? Because I can’t help but feel that the good luck has rubbed unto me. It was good luck for me that I got to experience eating authentic Chinese food, seeing historic places, visiting herbal drug stores, buying from Chinese bakeries and deli stores, and so much more, all the while enjoying the amazing experience with friends! Those charms did bring in good luck and brought in customers, and as a customer, I can’t help but feel that I’ve also been given good luck with the opportunity that has been given to me to enjoyably explore Binondo. Did those charms have a hand on how fun and smooth our travel went? Or was it really just our luck? I may never not know the answer, and it’s probably bad to pit all of these things to superstitions and charms. However, as I looked around and noticed the lucky jade bracelet wrapped around the wrist of a woman sitting across me, I can’t help that some things can’t just really stay at Binondo. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/emiliane

[cnfhumss12a-blog]

Binondo in Colors

By Zanela Bajarias

        The large archway gaped at me with an upturned smile, on it resting the words: ARKO NG PAGKAKAIBIGANG PILIPINO-TSINO. Each letter wrote itself in my head like the nativity of a new chant, weaving itself as the imposing arch it was, the words on it blurred by years of withdrawal and just acceptance of the reality that rang all throughout the oldest Chinatown in the world.

        With my dad in front and my mom trailing behind me, I snaked my way around the streets of Carriedo, thankful I had feet to bring me through Binondo’s golden-hour traffic. The sun was ready to fall into the somber atmosphere, its rays hovering above cars, orange hues bouncing off the metallic blaze. In the midst of the hustle and bustle, there stood—in its 423 year-old glory—the Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz. It boasted ruddy bricks. All aged. Immemorial.

Years of circumstance hoisted the church straight, I knew. It seemed all-too familiar with the cacophony that embraced Binondo.

Or of the cacophony that Binondo embraced.  

        The church’s interior, as its silent and knowing façade, contained me calm. Light hardly passed through the windows, but the waves that did painted the basilica in shades of red, green, and yellow through colored glass. The ceiling was a different world all together; smeared with talent, holiness, and paint. On it pictures of Jesus Christ, Mother Mary, and the apostles were plastered for all to see.

I was the last to leave the church. As I did, I saw, in my mom’s hand, a bundle of colored candles. According to the woman behind the counter, each colored candle depicted a type of blessing and the wax that burned with most haste was the blessing one would receive most in return. The idea of placing my faith on the fire that the candles would exhaust thrilled me. So, without so much of a pause, my parents and I lit the flames.

As we waited in silent sanctity, in the colors of the melting wax, I saw euphoria. I realized that there’s nothing about Binondo that can be described in a new light.

But everything about it can be painted in new colors. Sometimes, without having to mention the colors themselves.

RED

The whisper of a hue that coated Chinese culture. On Binondo’s skies hung lanterns with a color that mirrored the world’s sleepy sky by a few shades darker. It was beauty; a power that seemed to place itself between business and humankind. The tint that covered standing poles reeking of days-old urine and the odd parallel of fruit that walked the distance of more than a kilometer across Binondo. Stores that took the color into its gallantry aged it hazy, yet the color held on tight. It was the color that had itself ingrained into the elderly history of Binondo and the tint that still understands its lasting promise. It teased me into a store that prided itself as Binondo’s Oldest Fast Food, Chuan Kee. My parents and I ate there.

It’s also the color of a new friend—a boy not more than eight who crawled his way into our first stop—the church—towards my parents and I, asking for cash to strap. It was the color of the secret hidden behind my dad’s magic trick, a deceitful hue that took the boy’s attention and interest.

ORANGE

The color of change. It was the light from a million miles away that caressed my face in kind heat before I entered the Binondo Church. Warm and lovingly welcoming. Supper that, in it, hid the slightest sliver of crimson, seeping its way into the basilica, altering colors as it touched stained glass. A color that saw its way through the flame that danced fiercely above candle wax, a testament to the hopes of the seekers of blessings. It’s the color that basked the entirety of Binondo in its toasty, 4:00 P.M. brilliance, the light that hit the door that framed the words: PHILTRUST Bank. (The words felt like the whisper of the Filipino-Chinese friendship.) It was the color that covered the beads of lucky bracelets that devoured the length of Binondo’s streetsides, the faces that smiled with eyes unseen when you spoke a language they could not understand.

It’s the enticing light of Binondo’s parallels. Of buildings that stood erect in defiance of changing times. It was the rusting color of old shops that placed itself, quite courageously, beside new rubble. The light that belonged within the newer buildings, its dimness screaming elegance.

YELLOW

Potatoes that lay exposed on wooden carts along the streets prided themselves in the color that the sky seemed to have embraced so much of by close to 5-in-the-afternoon. It was a dull gold that the savory noodles of Chuan Kee (the oldest fast food chain in Binondo) had, peppered with flakes of chili and calamansi seeds. It’s the vinegar salted with lemongrass that I placed inside a bowl to consume with dumplings in the same restaurant. This is the color of difference, of ignorance. I saw it when my dad tried to lift the dumpling tray in hopes of finding soup underneath only to realize that the soup was inside the dumplings themselves.

It’s the reflective glory of the golden dragons I found a personal fondness of. The color of flawless Davao-plucked bananas all lying plump on wooden push carts. This is, as brought to a more personal degree, the color of skin. Human beings sliding past each other, some strangers colliding with others, stumbling by the sidewalk, looking back in brewing anger only to realize that the person that hit them has walked too far to fight. It’s the color of flight.

GREEN

By a great degree, this tint described what Binondo lacked most: trees.

This was also the color of penetration: the stringent odor of the lake—mossy like corroded grass—on its stagnant surface floating dead leaves of sorts. It entered my nose screaming bloody murder; a lingering scent that made a part of Binondo.

BLUE

The cold touch of doors left ajar—just enough to let chilly air out for a few seconds. It’s the work simmering into an end as the day exhales its last tiresome sigh. It’s the smell of sweaty clothes and the rubbery texture of the humid weather as it settles within Binondo’s belly. Lights that exhibited jewelry of all types, waiting in anxious silence for hands to pick it up. The color of the reflective silver on the necklace I bought before stepping out of the Binondo Church for safe travels.

VIOLET

The unexpected sibling. The color provided in surprise, understood only by catching glimpses of it around the aged Chinatown: on the shirts of workers, and as paint on towering buildings with the letters EngBeeTin suspended on thin air. It’s the adrenaline of picturing Binondo and its festivities at night. It’s the slow, sinking eyes that the sky seemed to lull itself into every night.

This was the last color I saw before exiting Binondo into Quiapo. I saw it placed on a billboard that boasted of having tasty Ube pastries. The collateral sedative that the color provided as an unexpected guest was calming in some way. What I expected to see only on the dying night sky was the color I saw so much of in Binondo.

COLORS, INVERTED

Stained as it is, Binondo serves as an ode to the relations between the Filipinos and the Chinese. I realized, quite a while after my travel, that Binondo’s cacophony fulfils a purpose greater than itself. It serves, albeit paradoxically, as the living, breathing mechanism of tranquility. The noise that surrounds Binondo proves that peace goes beyond political and territorial turmoil. Where color isn’t a passport for divisive madness but an entrance for subdued acceptance: one that’s accepted just because it is. And within the murky streets of Binondo lies a mantra that has knocked on the doors of nations since the beginning of time.

Peace begins with us. Gallery: https://cnfhumss12a.tumblr.com/tagged/zanela