coopdesignplans

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Walk-in Chicken Coops: 3 Top-rated Coop Kits and Plans for 2021

Walk-in chicken coops offer large, open spaces for your chickens and make it easy to clean and maintain the coop. Owners that want the best for their hens will find that a tall chicken coop offers:

Added safety

Durability

Weather resistance

If you’re just starting to keep your own chickens or want to upgrade your current setup, there are a lot of benefits to these walk-in models.

Benefits of Walk-in Chicken Coops

If you’re looking for a way to give your chickens the best life possible, then it’s time to consider building a walk-in chicken coop. Walk-in coops are designed to provide your chickens with a safe and secure environment. 

These coops offer numerous benefits, including:

Easier to Clean

Chickens take a lot of work to raise. The coop requires a lot of attention to keep your chickens happy. Cleaning is one of the most time-consuming tasks, even if you cover the floor with straw and install dropping boards.

Entering a small coop means you have to hunch over or even crawl to enter the space.

Walk-in models are tall with large openings that make it easy to enter the space. You’ll still need to clean:

Nesting material

Droppings

Etc.

But you won’t have to contort your body and struggle to move in the coop to clean it. You’ll spend less time cleaning, and your chickens will be happier, too.

Easier Maintenance

If you have to make repairs or want to add accessories inside of the coop, it’s much easier with a coop that you can walk in rather than crawl in. You won’t have to dread making repairs, nor will you find yourself pushing off maintenance tasks because they’re a hassle to perform.

Safety from Predators

Larger coops require better building practices to keep the coop structurally sound. Better building practices means that the chickens will be safer from predators. Coyotes and wolves can smell chickens from far away, and if your coop isn’t well-built, your chickens will be easy prey.

Due to their better building style, the larger coops will offer more protection.

But some predators can still get into coops, so it’s important to take the utmost precautions to keep your chickens safe.

Better Health for Your Chickens

Cramped spaces are not good for your chickens. If your coop requires the chickens to crouch down to enter or exit the coop, it’s not offering your birds the best health options. Crammed spaces can lead to:

Unsanitary conditions

Heat stroke

Larger coops provide the freedom to roam around and enjoy the health benefits of an open space.

Keeping the space cool for your birds can be difficult with larger coops that are 10’ x 12’ or larger in size. Some owners will put in cooling fans or air conditioning to keep their birds more comfortable in these environments.

We’ve listed a variety of walk-in options for you to consider:

Walk-in chicken coop kits

Walk-in chicken coop plans

Walk-in chicken runs

Reviews of the Top 3 Walk-in Chicken Coop Kits

Kits provide everything you need to put together a coop that is perfect for your birds. We’ve reviewed three of the best kits available so that you can find one perfect for your needs.

1. Petmate, Superior Construction Chicken Coop

Image Source: PetMate @ Tractor Supply

Dimensions

Foraging Area: 3.5′ L x 6′ W

Roosting Area:  40” L x 21.5” W

Nesting Box Area: 40” W x 12” H (3 boxes)

Door Height: 5′ 11″ Feet Tall

Find it on Tractor Supply

Petmate’s chicken coop is made with wood panels that are twice as thick as competing models to offer superior construction and durability. The roof is made from durable plastic, and all wood components are unstained to make it fully customizable for your chickens.

This model features:

Extra tall cleaning tray that makes it easy to clean and allows for a deep layer of bedding

Durable plastic wood; remaining material is solid wood

Three nesting boxes included

Rear box door to make collecting eggs easy

Two internal, one external roosting bar

Rear ventilation

The door height is 59”, and the overall weight of the coop is 158 pounds. Run area length is 72” and 42.25” wide. The unit is two levels high with four doors and a 12” nesting area.

A ramp makes it easier for hens to enter.

Depending on the breed, you can fit 6 to 10 chickens in the coop.

2. Little Cottage Company’s Walk in Chicken Coop with Nesting Box for Up to 24 Chickens

Image Source: Little Cottage Company @ Wayfair

Dimensions

Total Area: 8.1′ Long by 7.25′ Wide

Roosting Length: 6 feet

Nesting Boxes: 6

1 Window & 1 Door

Chicken Ramp & Door

Find it on Wayfair

Little Cottage’s model looks more like a barn than it does a chicken coop, which is perfect for a farm setting. This kit is massive, with a weight of 1,150 pounds and 59 square feet of space for chickens to run.

From side-to-side, the nesting bar is 72”. This kit offers the following features:

Six nesting boxes are included

All wall sections are panelized

Full pine wood design

Ramp included

One-level

Customers must purchase shingles and a drip edge. The kit also doesn’t include paint. All materials are weather-resistant, and the coop is well ventilated. When purchasing, step-by-step instructions are provided.

Depending on the type of chickens you’re keeping, you can fit 14 to 24 birds in the coop.

3. Amish Heritage 8′ x 12′ Coop

Dimensions

Total Area: 8′ x 12′

Double Door: 5 Feet Tall

4’ paneled wall sections

3 nesting boxes 18” from the floor

Find it on GreenGardenChicken.com

Amish Heritage’s coop is a lot larger than the previous two models, with a size of 8’ x 12’. Solid wood and real glass windows help make the coop extremely predator-proof. Key features include:

Decorative hinges

Roof sheathing and rafters

Walls are 6’6”

Standard, 60” doors

An electrical package can be purchased to include pre-wiring, 15-amp fuse, lighting and even a wall outlet.

Want to keep even more chickens? This kit offers the most capacity, with the coop confidently fitting 24 standard size chickens or 40-50 bantams.

Reviews of the Top 3 Walk-in Chicken Coop Plans

If you would rather not purchase a kit, you can purchase plans that allow you to source your own materials and build a coop. The following plans are among the best that we’ve found:

1. The Garden Coop Walk-In Chicken Coop Plan eBook (PDF)

Image Source: TheGardenCoop @ Etsy

Dimensions

Total Area: 10′ Wide x 6′ Deep

Height: 8 Feet Tall

Interior Henhouse: 15 sqft

Run Area: 50 sqft

2 Nest Boxes

Find it on Etsy

Found on Etsy, this plan has rave reviews. The plan offers excellent protection against predators and rodents, options for a full-sized door.

The design is suitable for 4 to 8 hens in the coop, depending on the breed. You can customize the coop to hold more chickens by extending exterior walls and run.

This eBook features:

45 detailed pages

Photos and diagrams

Hardware quick kit

Open roof design (optional)

Tips on construction

Support from the designer

Customers tend to love these plans and claim that they’re simple and easy to adjust to add in your own customizations.

2. Shed Chicken Coop and Run

Photo Credit: Ana-White.com

Dimensions

Shed: 4′ L x 8′ W x 8′ H

Run: 12′ L x 8′ W x 6′ H

Window: 1.8′ W x 3′ H

Door: 5.8′ W x 2.5′ H

Find it on Ana-White.com

The Shed Chicken Coop and Run is easy to build, but there are a few things that you should know:

Raise the coop a foot or so off the ground

Estimated costs to build are $800

Build time is 20 hours or more, depending on skill

Run offers ample room for chickens to roam

Concerns with these plans is that there’s no ventilation. The plans are free, and you can hold six to eight chickens inside, depending on the type of chicken.

3. The “Mod” Coop

Photo Source: Feathermaid @ BackyardChickens.com

Dimensions

Interior: 3’ W x 6’ L x 4’ T

Total:  3’ W x 18’ L by 6’ T

Find it on BackyardChickens.com

The “Mod” Coop is a great plan that is designed to be modular. You can easily take the coop apart and move it, and there are options to isolate and raise chickens. The unit is designed to be lightweight, so 2×2 beams are used to reduce weight but also make it less durable.

In an effort to avoid needing a permit, the building height is under 6 feet, which may or may not be tall enough for you to stand inside easily.

Photo Source: feathermaid @ backyardchickens.com

The coop is divided into three, six-foot sections. Length is a little over 18 feet which offers more than enough space for your chickens to roam. While the plan is complex, you’ll be able to build the coop using the materials you choose.

In total, the unit can confidently house 3 to 6 chickens and has a ramp, large doors and a metal roof design.

Walk in Chicken Runs

Even if you have a smaller coop, you may want to make a walk-in chicken run that keeps your chickens safe and can be added to your existing coop. A good example is this chicken run from Omlet.

When using this chicken run, you’ll be able to choose from multiple pre-configuration models to find a size that matches your needs.

The smallest model has dimensions of 7’3” W x 3’9” H x 7’3.” The largest model has dimensions of 10’3” W x 6’8” H x 13’3.”

A built-in lock system and the run fitting flush on the ground with additional material in the front of the run to keep predators out keeps chickens safe from even the most intelligent predators.

Stable-style doors are included to allow for easy access, and you can customize the inside with swings, perches and other fun additions for your birds.

Final Thoughts

Walk-in chicken coops are a great option for anyone that wants to raise their chickens with a tall chicken coop that is easy to enter, clean and durable. Your chickens will be happier with a larger space that’s roomy, well-ventilated, and safe.

The post Walk-in Chicken Coops: 3 Top-rated Coop Kits and Plans for 2021 appeared first on Chicken Coop Designs.

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5 Chicken Coop Plans for 6 to 8 Chickens

Building a chicken coop is a rewarding project, and if you’re an inexperienced builder, there are plenty of helpful plans to guide you. If you’re planning for 6-8 chickens, a small to medium-sized coop should offer plenty of space for your girls to roam.

Here are five chicken coop plans for 6 to 8 chickens to help you get started. Plus, we’ll compare these with Tractor Supply’s most popular coop.

Small Chicken Coop Plans for 6 to 8 Chickens

The following plans are perfect for up to eight chickens depending on their size.

1. Chicken Coop Plans – CoopExpert (Etsy)

The Chicken Coop Plans from Etsy’s CoopExpert is a best-seller, and it’s easy to see why. The design is simple but functional and beautiful. It’s just the right size for 6 to 8 chickens, and it won’t take up too much space in your yard.

Here’s a quick rundown of this plan’s specs and the coop’s features.

Image Source: TheCoopExpert @ Etsy

Find it on Etsy

Coop Specs

Dimensions: 5’ W x 6’ D x 6’11” H

Interior Height: 5’ at peak

Interior Space: 24 square feet

Coop Features

5 large nesting boxes

3 roost rails

Hinged lid for egg gathering

Large front door for easy access

2 Window

What Does the Plan Include?

30 pages

CAD drawings with 3D diagrams

Step-by-step instructions

Materials & Tools list

Printer-friendly design

CoopExpert estimates the build cost to be $900-$1200 on average. There’s also a 30-day money-back guarantee with this plan, so if you’re not happy with the outcome, you can request a refund.

CoopExpert offers free email support, so if you’re confused about the plans or having trouble following them, you can get free guidance and support.

2. The Garden Coop – TheGardenCoop (Etsy)

TheGardenCoop’s plan of the same name features a walk-in design and a spacious run. The plans are designed to serve as a solid foundation, so you can make adjustments and add features quickly and easily.

Image source: TheGardenCoop @ Etsy

Find it on Esty

Coop Specs

Dimensions: 10’ W x 6’ D x 8’ H

Henhouse: 15 square feet

Run: 50 square feet

Coop Features

Double nest box

A couple roosts

Walk-in design with a full-size door

Spacious run

360-degree protection from predators

“Open” roof design

The coop is made primarily from:

Lumber

Polycarbonate roofing

Hardware cloth

Siding of your choice

TheGardenCoop estimates that the materials should cost $900-$1,050, depending on your location. It should take about 2-3 weekends to build this coop if you’re working alone.

What Does the Plan Include?

45 pages with step-by-step instructions

Diagrams

Measurements & Cut lists

Materials & Tools list

Construction tips

The seller offers email support, so if you’re having trouble at any point during your build, you can reach out for help. The coop uses simple tools that you probably have on hand or can borrow from a friend.

3. Shed Chicken Coop – Ana White

Looking for a free chicken coop plan? Look no further than Ana White’s Shed Chicken Coop. With its sloping roof and full-size door, this coop will look great in your backyard.

It comes together quickly, too, especially if you have some friends to help out.

Image Source: Ana-White.com

Find it on Ana-White.com

Coop Specs

Dimensions: 98 ¾” W x 51” D x 96” H

Approximately 34 square feet.

Coop Features

Nest box

Window for ventilation

Full-size front door

Sloping roof design

The Shed Chicken Coop only requires simple tools to build. While the plans call for 2x4s, you can get away with using 2x3s to cut back on costs a little without affecting the coop’s structural integrity.

At approximately 4 feet wide by 8 feet, the design will house 8 laying hens comfortably.

These plans are relatively easy to follow, but they may be challenging if you’re a beginner.

4. My Mid Life Crisis Coop

This chicken coop is a bit different from the other plans on our list. There are no formal plans, per say, but the creator of this coop, Todd, goes through his process to explain how he built this oh-so-fancy home for his chickens.

Image Source: BackyardChickens.com

Find it on BackyardChickens.com

Coop Specs and Features

Dimensions: 6′ x 8′

Height of roof tower peaks: 14’

Run: 8’W x 14’L x 7’H

Vinyl siding

Nest box

Several roosting poles

Affectionately called the “Taj-Mahal” chicken coops by the builder and his friends, it was a labor of love. The plan was created to house 8 to 12 Silkies. Since the Batam breed is smaller, they used a guideline of 2 square feet per bird, instead of four.

Todd goes over his list of materials and cost. In 2010, it cost him about $550 to bring this project to life. The cost today will likely be much higher.

5. Easy Chicken Coop Plans

This Easy Chicken Coop plan truly is easy, and this is another free plan that offers step-by-step instructions. There is also a premium version of the plan that is incredibly affordable (less than $8), but it includes a plan for a connecting chicken run.

Image Source: MyOutdoorPlans.com

Find it on MyOutdoorPlans.com

Coop Specs and Features

4×8 Chicken Coop

Gable Roof

Large Access Door

Plenty of Ventilation

Room for Nesting Boxes

The free version is still a great option though. The plans include a detailed shopping list of everything you’ll need to build this coop. You’ll also find a helpful tools list. You don’t need anything out of the ordinary to bring these plans to life.

The plans include 3D diagrams with measurements and written instructions. The free version of the plan has only four steps, sufficient for an experienced builder. The premium version includes additional step-by-step instructions, with 3D diagrams and is printer-friendly.

MyOutdoorPlans.com says that it takes about a day to build this coop. If you’re experienced or have some help, it may come together that quickly. However, you can expect to spend more time if you’re inexperienced or building this alone.

Tractor Supply’s Best-Selling Coop for 6-8 Hens

Tractor Supply’s best-selling coop – the Superior Construction Chicken Coop – features:

Image Source: Petmate @ Tractor Supply

Find it on Tractor Supply

Coop Specs and Features

Run Dimensions: 72” L x 42.25” W

Solid wood construction

Three internal nesting boxes; a rear nesting box door

2 internal and 1 external roosting bar

Ventilation in the rear

This coop has a durable plastic roof and a tall cleaning tray for easy cleaning and a deeper bedding layer.

The Superior Construction Chicken Coop has a simple but attractive design. The wood comes unstained, so you can paint it or stain it as you please.

Pros of This Coop

Everything you need is included in the building kit – no guesswork

Plenty of nesting boxes and roosting bars

Ventilation is built-in

Easy to clean

Cons of This Coop

The henhouse is smaller than other plans on our list and will hold about 6 chickens. We’d suggest an added run or to free range the chickens during the day.

Overall, the cost of this coop is likely lower than other plans on this list, but if you want a more unique coop or a bigger henhouse, you may be better off using one of the plans above. For convenience and ease of building, this coop can’t be beat.

Summary

Choosing a chicken coop plan is a personal decision. As long as there’s enough room for your chickens to live comfortably (with plenty of ventilation), you’re free to get as creative as you want with your designs. These five plans can help you get started, or you can choose the coop kit from Tractor Supply if you want a simpler solution.

The post 5 Chicken Coop Plans for 6 to 8 Chickens appeared first on Chicken Coop Designs.

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Nesting Boxes For Hens: How Big, How Many and Where to Put Them

Learn how to choose the best nesting boxes for your chickens to maximize egg production and keep your chickens happy.   

The design of your hens’ nesting boxes is important to keep the eggs clean, safe, and easy for you to find. Some hens are not particular where they will lay eggs. They will lay them in any location they feel relatively safe, which could be anywhere in the chicken coop. You don’t want to go on an egg hunt each morning or run the risk of the eggs getting trampled on or damaged. 

We’ll walk through all the essential points to consider when choosing the perfect nesting boxes for your hens. 

Chicken Nesting Box Size

The standard size of a chicken nesting box is twelve inches long by twelve inches wide. This is a good size for most laying chickens. The height of the nesting box can range from twelve to sixteen inches tall based on the size of your chickens.

When determining the correct chicken nesting box dimensions, the important factor is that they should be small enough that the chicken feels safe but still big enough for them to turn around and stand up. So for larger birds, it is more important that the box be taller rather than wider. 

A good size for a larger laying hen like the Jersey Giants or Brahmas would be 12x12x14 or 12x12x16. You can also leave the top open. Many chickens like to stand up as they release the egg. 

You can increase the size to 14 inches for these bigger ladies, but most hens prefer a snugger fit for laying. The one exception is the girls who like to lay together. In this case, you can add one or larger boxes to accommodate them. 

If your hens are on the petite side, you can reduce the size. But they should be no smaller than ten inches wide.

How Many Nesting Boxes Per Chicken?

The number of nesting boxes for chickens depends on the size of the flock. The ideal ratio is one nesting box for every four hens. 

The 4:1 ratio is a slightly sliding scale based on the size of your flock. You can provide fewer boxes for larger flocks (up to 5 hens per box). But if you only have four hens, then provide at least two nesting boxes. 

If you have a lot of young chickens or occasionally add new chickens to your flock, you may choose to provide a few extra boxes. This ensures everyone has enough room to be comfortable and reduces the chance the newer birds are intimidated, but typically everyone gets along just fine after a short transition period. 

Therefore, you need to encourage them and ensure that the nesting box is secured and a comfortable place to lay their eggs.

Are All Chicken Nesting Boxes Square?

A nesting box is not necessarily square in shape. In fact, the shape doesn’t matter as long as it has enough space to contain and secure the eggs and the hen.

It’s also better if the nesting box is not that complicated, as it will be difficult for you to clean it – the easier and simpler the type, the better.

Nesting Box Placement

Position your nesting boxes in a sheltered, quiet location, away from foot traffic and the main roosting area. 

Inside the coop, the boxes should be in a quiet corner away from the entrance when the chickens can relax and feel safe. A slightly shaded or darker corner is preferred. You can add curtains for additional privacy if you choose.

Outside the chicken coop, make sure the nesting boxes are protected from direct sunlight, wind, and rain. Sudden changes in temperature, such as highs during the day or sudden low temperatures at night, can affect the eggs. Locate them on the quietest side of the coop, away from the hustle and bustle of the farm. 

Nesting Box Height

The nesting box should at least 18 inches from the ground. You can place them higher. Many chicken owners like to put the boxes at an accessible height to retrieve the eggs without bending over. Just don’t make them so high they fly up to seek protection.

The height of the roosting area should always be higher than the nesting area. Chickens seem to want to find the highest place to sleep, and you’ll want to discourage the hens from sleeping in or near the boxes. This keeps the boxes cleaner and prevents your eggs from getting contaminated. Locating the roosts on the opposite end of the coop from the nesting area is good practice if you have the room.

 What If The Chickens Are Sleeping On The Nesting Boxes?

Occasionally, your chickens will start roosting on top of the nesting box. This should always be discouraged. Here are a few ways to prevent your chickens from sleeping on the boxes. 

If you are still in the design phase of your project, create a slanted roof on top of the nesting area. If the design is complete, you can mount a board at a steep angle along the back wall. That should do the trick. 

You can also try adding a slippery surface to the top, making it hard for the chickens to perch. Plexiglass can work well here. 

Add additional roosting options away from the nesting area. The chickens may not have enough roosting perches.

What Materials Should Be Put Inside Chicken Nesting Boxes?

When choosing a nesting material, keep in mind the purpose of the nesting box; to protect the eggs from any damage or harm that might occur. You want a comforting material that won’t harm the eggs. 

The most popular chicken nesting box material is hay or straw. The benefits for using this type of bedding are: 

Fluffy and has lots of airspaces

Gentle on the eggs

Easy to Clean

Relatively Cheap

Cost-efficient

However, there are a few potential problems to look out for

Your hens may brush the straw to the side and create a hole in the center, causing the eggs to be damaged. The solution is to put a rubber or soft mat or soft material like fabric on the bottom of the nesting box. 

Some hens love to kick all the materials out of the box. In this case, try making the lip to the nesting box taller. Increasing the height of 1-2 inches usually does the trick. 

Other options for nesting material include shavings of pine or cedar. You can also try to put dry leaves, shredded paper, or you can buy a nesting pad. These will make the nesting box look more inviting to the chickens. 

Common Problems With Nesting Boxes

How do you get the chickens to lay their eggs in the boxes?

Younger chickens that are just learning how to use a nesting box can be a problem. Here are a few tips to help encourage the hens to lay eggs inside the box. 

Keep the nesting material fresh. Clean it every day after you collect the eggs. 

Double-check the size and location of the boxes. You could try a quieter location, adding a little curtain for privacy, using a larger (or smaller size) or different height. Try out some of the DIY boxes below to experiment with different sizes and locations before making any big changes. 

Place an egg in each nesting box. Chickens have a natural instinct to want to sit on eggs when they see one. 

For this to work, first, mark the egg with a pencil, so you know which one it is. The following day when you collect the eggs, take out the marked ones & any fresh eggs. Leave one egg inside the box, mark it again with a pencil, and repeat the process, so you take out the older eggs first.

After a week or two, your hens will get the idea and start laying eggs inside the boxes on their own. 

What if your chickens are eating the eggs?

Don’t leave the eggs in the boxes too long. Not only will this keep the eggs clean, but it can prevent accidentally cracking with too many eggs are in the box. 

This happens because the chicken sees something on the egg like a small bug or dirt spec they think is food. By keeping the nesting box clean, this is less likely to happen. 

Also, provide enough access to feed. An automatic feeder can be placed inside the coop. If they are hungry & can’t find anything to eat, they might go to the eggs for a meal.

Transparent or Thin Eggs

This is probably due to the quality of the feed or the age of the chicken. 

Get a good feed with enough calcium in it. You can supplement with crushed limestone or oyster shells if you are making your feed mix. Some young chickens that have just started laying eggs can have this problem. Look for feeds with an “egg-layer” mix with a limestone or calcium product. 

DIY Nesting Boxes – Some Easy Cheap Options To Get Started

If you are just starting out or are handy and want to make your own homemade nesting boxes, there are plenty of options to choose from. Here are some simple tips for creating DIY boxes:

Milkcrates

Plastic milkcrates make a great inexpensive nesting box. The size is just about right, they are inexpensive and easy to clean. With a few minor modifaction, they can last a long time.

You’ll need something on the bottom to act as a floor to keep the hay inside. Floor tiles, a folded piece of burlap, or a square piece of plywood all work fine. Then attach a board to the front of the box so the eggs don’t roll out.

Used Cardboard Boxes

This is only for temporary purposes, as it might be easily destroyed, but can work in a pinch. If there are unused boxes inside your house that are large enough to accommodate the size of your chickens, they make a great short-term solution. Just make sure that the bottom of the box is sturdy enough to handle the chicken and for the eggs not to come out. 

Wood Nesting Boxes

If you can operating a saw and hammer a few nails, you can make your own wooden nesting boxes from plywood or pallets. A lot of owners choose this as it is sturdy. You can also hire a local handyman to make a few nesting boxes made of wood. Small wooden crates, craft boxes, or even a narrow drawer are good options if your building skills are limited.

Large Plastic Bowls or Containers 

You can use any large plastic bowl or containers as long as the size can contain the chicken. That way, you won’t need to spend any money, and at the same time, you can re-use those bowls or containers. 

Barrel, Bucket, or Gallon Containers

If you have an empty bucket or barrel, you can turn those into nesting boxes. You can simply put their body down and use it as the chicken’s entrance. A round bucket or gallon made of plastic can be slippery and unstable.

You can use heavy objects (such as rocks) to anchor them in place and prevent them from rolling. You can also cut the body in half, especially if the barrel or gallon is tall. 

Using simple recycled items like this for a nesting box is a great way to try out different locations and sizes for your hens. Especially if you have a few that like to lay their eggs on the floor of the chicken coop.

Once you decided what you will use as a nesting box, you can set it up inside the chicken’s coop/house and put the necessary materials inside it to make it comfortable for your chickens. 

Ready-Made Boxes

If you prefer a store-bought solution, there are plenty of options. Tractor supply is our go-to store for chicken-keeping supplies. Choose from plastic, metal or wooden boxes.

If you want that personal touch, but don’t like to build, Etsy has some beautiful nesting boxes made by local craftsman.

Summary

The design, size, and location of your chickens’ nesting boxes are an essential part of keeping your chickens happy and productive. 

When you give them a comforting, clean nesting area, they will produce plenty of eggs to feed your whole family & maybe even enough to share them with your neighbors! 

The post Nesting Boxes For Hens: How Big, How Many and Where to Put Them appeared first on Chicken Coop Designs.

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How To Heat A Chicken Coop Without Electricity

Raising chickens and warming up their coop isn’t as challenging as you think, even without electricity during the cold winter. However, before we get to all the ways to keep your chickens warm during winter, we should first review how chickens stay warm on their own.

How Chickens Keep Themselves Warm

Our chickens are important to us, so of course we worry about them in the colder months. However, when providing help, we don’t want to interfere with mother nature.

Chickens can regulate their body temperature, especially cold-tolerant breeds.

Their feathers act as a protective layer, trapping the heat to keep them warm. For an adult chicken, the ideal temperature is about 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they can still withstand lower temperatures and self-regulate their internal temperatures during the colder months.

The use of a heat lamp may do more harm than good. 

As mentioned, chickens use their feathers to regulate their body heat and keep stay warm. They also huddle together both for security and to share in the warmth of each other.

Using a heat lamp can sometimes make them dependent on it. Chickens are even healthier without it, relying on the tools mother nature gave them to stay warm.

The same is true of the use of the popular chicken sweater. Chickens fluff their wings to trap heat, so wearing them a sweater prevents them from doing the activities to stay warm on their own. 

Observe your chicken regularly and look for the signs they give off when they are cold. 

When you see your chicken huddling in one corner or fluffing up their wings, then that’s your cue to take action. You may also see them standing on one foot while the other one is tucked up as close as possible on their stomach for heat.

Considering these facts, does this mean that heating the chicken coop is unnecessary? The answer is No. Although chickens can do quite a bit to stay warm on their own, as responsible owners, it is our job to give them a helping hand when needed. This is particularly important when the temperature drops to an unbearable level to ensure their health. 

But it is good to remember these facts, so you don’t worry too much about having electricity running in your chicken coop.

9 Ways to Keep Your Chickens Warm in Winter When You Don’t Have Electricity Running To The Coop

Many chicken coops are located away from our main residences, so more often than not we don’t have an easy access to electricity. Not to worry, there are several easy ways to keep your chickens warm and cozy all winter long.

1. Relocate The Chicken Coop

Relocation doesn’t apply to stationary chicken coops, but there are many options if you have a mobile coop. Move or relocate the chicken coop in a place protected from the winter’s harsh and bitter wind. It would also be better to choose a location that receives a fair amount of sun to help warm the coop during the day.

2. Add Insulation

If you plan to build or renovate your chicken coop, especially as a preparation for winter, a well-insulated chicken coop is essential. It is beneficial not only for winter as this helps keep them warm but also in summer to keep them cool. 

Below are some cheap materials you can use to insulate your chicken coop. 

Styrofoam: Place Styrofoam between the studs on the ceiling of the chicken house. Most people choose this material because it is very suitable for trapping heat and blocking cold wind. Only use this method if your chickens cannot reach the ceiling as the chicken may peck on it and get destroyed eventually. Besides, swallowing it can also affect their health. 

Cardboard or Carton Box: This is effective to block crosswinds, especially if there are drafts in your chicken coop at the same time keeping the heat inside. Cardboard is cheap and readily available. Tape it on the walls of your chicken coop or ceiling, but monitor it as much as possible because these can get wet and also flammable.

Straw.  Most chicken owners spread straw on the chicken coop floor to use as insulation from the cold ground. You can also stack bales and place them outside near the entrance to block any drafts from getting in through the coop walls. 

Fabric. Choose a thick, insulating material and attach it to the walls. Old clothes or towels can work in a pinch if you are on a budget. You can combine fabric with cardboard for better insulation.

Curtains. You can use some of your old curtains and put them in the chicken coop wall to block the bitter wind or use it to minimize the drafts on the chicken coop. 

3. Minimize Drafts

Regularly check and monitor the chicken coop for holes or gaps where chilling breezes can get through. Block any holes with plywood, cardboard, or other sturdy materials to prevent the wind from entering the coop. Insulation will not be as effective in a drafty coop. 

As you reinforced the coop walls, make sure the coop still has adequate ventilation to allow moist air to escape. Ventilation holes should be placed near the top of the chicken coop where cold air cannot flow directly to the chicken. 

4. Cover Their Pathway 

The ground is cold, and when it snows it’s both cold and wet. This may prevent your chickens from wanting to venture outside to get fresh air and exercise. Both are important to your chicken’s overall health. To solve this problem, provide your chickens with a covered walkway, especially in areas with frequent snowfalls.

Create the path by scattering hay, straw, or woodchips. Wooden planks or other material can also be used, just try to choose something that won’t easily get damp. This will help your chicken to engage outside more and adjust their body to the cold temperature and prevent their feet from getting cold and wet.

5. Deep Litter Method

A deep and loose litter can also add additional insulation inside the chicken coop. Choose a heavier first layer, about 3-4 inches. It can be straw, or wood shavings are a popular choice and provide excellent insulation. Continue to add an additional layer each week throughout the winter, cleaning it out in the spring.  

6. Trap Sun Heat With Windows

Well-insulated windows are an excellent way to bring a natural source of heat throughout the day. The key to this is to keep the heat in the coop. Stone and concrete floors will absorb the heat then slowly release it throughout the day.

If you have a wood floor, you can use the Deep Litter Method since compost will also hold onto the warmth of sunlight.  

7. Check Your Chicken Roosts

Chickens (just like people) like to keep their feet warm at night. Check your chicken coop at night to see how your chickens sleep – on the floor or in their roosts. Chickens naturally huddle together and fluff up their feathers to keep them warm.  

If your chickens sleep on their roosts, make sure they are wide enough so they can cover their feet with their feathers. 2 inches is a good minimum so they can keep their feet flat and protected from the cold air.

In even colder temperatures, the chickens may huddle together on the floor. In this case, make sure there is enough room for all your chickens.  

8. Keep Your Chickens Active

Just as your body warms up when you are exercising, the same goes for your chickens. So encourage your chickens to go out during the day by adding treats in the yard.

If the weather is too cold outside, you can also add fun activities inside. Watch this video on hanging a cabbage on a string to see how much the chickens enjoy it. This could easily be setup inside the coop.

9. Offer Additional Food and Water

Offer your chickens additional food and water during the winter months. Eating and digestion generate body warmth, so you should feed them at least a few times a day. Your chickens also need the extra calories since staying warm taking energy. An automatic feeder and waterers can be placed inside the coop to ensure food is available at night. 

How to Keep Young Chicks and Eggs Warm

As mentioned above, chickens can withstand the cold temperature in winter, but young chicks cannot because they are more sensitive to cold, and their feathers are still small and soft. 

As a rule of thumb, 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for the chicks for their first few days. They will not be able to withstand temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit until the fifth week. So using a heat lamp and a brooder is recommended when raising chicks. 

Prevent Eggs From Freezing

Not only can cold temperatures affect your chickens, but they can also freeze their eggs. Place an extra thick layer of straw in the nesting boxes to insulate and keep the eggs warm. If your nesting box faces the outside, you can also add curtains to prevent excess cold air from getting inside.

Summary

Although chickens can withstand cold temperatures, you still need to provide a little help to keep them warm and healthy. In fact, there are many ways to keep chickens warm in the cold winter, even when electricity is not an option. Adequate insulation, increased food, activity, and smart coop design, just to name a few. 

The most effective method is, of course, to plan and prepare before winter arrives. Then come up with a way to stay healthy during the winter. It is also essential to regularly monitor and observe the chickens’ condition and behavior to make changes as required.  

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How to Keep Wild Birds Out of the Chicken Coop

Are wild birds invading your chicken coop? Chasing away the wild birds and preventing them from entering your chickens’ coop can be an exhausting task. So what can you do? This article will help keep your chickens safe from birds of prey and stop smaller birds from stealing their feed. 

Why Is It Important to Keep Wild Birds Away From Your Chickens? 

Prevent the Spread of Avian Diseases

Wild birds may carry diseases that can infect your chickens. Wild birds carry the avian flu, which can be spread to your flocks through contact with their feed and surrounding structures. 

If wild birds are invading your chicken coop, they may also leave their droppings inside next to eating, drinking and bedding areas. This exposure can spread diseases throughout the enclosure affecting the health of your chickens.

You may not notice right away if your chickens are infected. A small infection may cause a mild illness that presents with lowered egg production. But if the birds carry a stronger form of the virus, such as HPAI (a highly pathogenic avian influenza), the impact can be devastating. This form of the disease can quickly spread to the entire flock cause severe illness or death. 

Keep Chickens Safe From Birds of Prey

Hawks, Owls, and Falcons are especially dangerous to an unprotected flock. They will perch high in the trees and swoop down on your unsuspecting chickens. These birds may kill your chicken right in the pen or carry them away to feed their own offspring. 

Magpies and crows are also a problem for the chicken coop. They are known to kill young chicks or eat and steal your chicken eggs. 

Keep Smaller Birds From Stealing the Chicken Feed

Smaller wild birds such as sparrows and doves are a nuisance to many chicken owners since they steal your chicken feed. This can become very expensive quickly. No one wants to keep on refilling your chicken feeder, only to have a swarm of wild birds swoop in and clean it out. 

Build or Update Your Chicken Coop Enclosure to Keep Wild Birds Out

Determine The Type of Wild Birds in Your Area

Before building a new chicken coop or making modifications to an existing one, first take notes on the type of wild birds in the area. Do you have sparrows and doves munching on your chicken feed? Or are there birds of prey, such as owls and hawks circling above? 

Observing the chickens’ activity and the wild birds in your area will help you determine what type of structure you need to keep the birds out. 

Modify Your Chicken Run to Protect Your Chickens from Birds of Prey

Keeping your chickens safe is always a priority. If you have hungry birds preying on your chickens, it is better to build an enclosed chicken coop to secure your chickens. A covered run can provide a safe way for your chickens to forage. A mobile chicken run is another option to safeguard your birds while giving them to different areas of your farm.

But, don’t restrict your chickens too severely. You still want the chickens to have plenty of access to open ground and fresh air. Finding a balance is key. 

Here are a few ways to secure your chickens from airborne predators.

The chicken coop should have a secure door that can be closed and locked.

If you free-range your birds, consider adding an enclosed run to give them a safe place to forage.

If you already have an open chicken run, add additional roofs or screens on top to deny these wild birds’ access. Chicken wire can work well here. 

If you cannot add a roof, then install reflective surfaces or mirrors in strategic areas on top of your chicken coop and around the side of the runs. Many retailers carry scare tape in rolls that are easily applied to these surfaces. 

Update Your Enclosure to Prevent Small Birds From Stealing Chicken Feed

Sparrows are the most troublesome wild birds we find around the chicken coop. Doves, starlings, house martins, and even seagulls can also be a problem in some areas. All of these birds will make a feast out of your chicken feeders if they are left unprotected. 

Use bird netting to block the entry of small birds from stealing and eating your chicken feed. Attach the netting from the sides of your chicken run to the chicken coop, so no birds can fly in. In addition to the netting, here are a few other ways to keep smaller birds away from the feeding area. 

Install a vent cover to keep sparrows and other small birds from nesting inside your chicken coop vents.

Remove perches from the chicken coop roof, such as long roof overhangs or eaves. 

Relocate any wild bird feeders to a location far away from your chicken feeders.

Additional Steps You Can Take To Keep Wild Birds Away From Your Chicken Coop

Monitor Your Chicken Coop Regularly

Inspect for Damage. Routinely inspect the structure of your chicken coop. Is there any damaged or broken material that allows wild birds to enter your chicken coop? Check fencing, doors, and netting for any holes or weakened sections.  

Check for Nearby Bird Nests. Walk around your chicken coop to determine if there are any wild birds nesting on top of your chicken coop or in the surrounding areas. Remove the nests and discourage new nest-building activity. If there are hidden nests, this could be why the wild birds keep on coming back. 

Never Leave Excess Amount of Chicken Feed on their Feeding Stations

Only give your chickens enough feed for the day. If they are fed outside, you can also remove the feeder once your chickens have enjoyed their meal. Excess chicken feed attracts the small birds, especially when the feed is left out in the open. 

All birds are routinely on the lookout for easy sources of food, water, and shelter. Leaving a large amount of food and water is just an open invitation for all the birds in your neighborhood to come over and enjoy the feast. You should also try to keep both food and water inside the chicken coop where wild birds do not have access to them. 

Replace Any Open Feeders With A Wild Bird Proof Chicken Feeder

Several designs can work well here. Lever-operated feeders work very well where a small lever needs to be pressed to dispense the seed. Small birds are too light to activate the feeder. Other good choices are raised hanging feeders or enclosed poultry feeders with an access port designed for chickens. 

Scare the Wild Birds With Ornaments and Decoys

Add Shiny Objects.  Some owners use shiny objects such as CDs, aluminum foil, or wind chimes to scare the wild birds away from their chickens’ coop. Hang these items from the ceiling, so they swing gently back and forth. The reflected light scares the birds, so they won’t enter the area. 

Mount a Decoy. You can also use a decoy or any objects that look like a predator such as cats, owls, or larger prey of birds to scare them away. It can be made of wood, metal, or any material as long as it seems real.

Put the decoy in an area that wild birds can easily see, but make sure to change the location frequently, so it seems more realistic. Otherwise, the birds can eventually get accustomed to it and will lose its effectiveness. Also, watch your chickens’ behavior to make sure the decoy is not upsetting them. 

Summary

There are many ways to keep wild birds out of your chicken coop, but the most effective way is to regularly monitor your chicken coop and block all their possible access. 

Wild birds are a problem on many farms, but with a little persistence, you should be able to keep them away from your coops and chickens. 

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The Best Chicken Breeds for a Small Backyard Coop

If you are new to raising chickens, you have started your flock with the chicken breeds that were easily available in your local area. But if you are keen on a little research first, there is a whole world of chicken breeds to choose from.

In this article, we’ll review ten of the best chicken breeds for a small backyard coop. We’ve sorted our selections according to category – egg laying, meat chickens, decorative and family-friendly hens.

The first thing to do is to decide your ultimate goal for raising chickens – do you want eggs for the family or a unique pet for the kids to teach them about homesteading?

It’s always good to branch out and try a few other breeds. Not only will you have poultry for every purpose, but your enjoyment of the hobby will also increase when you see how unique these birds are.

Best Chickens For Laying Eggs

1. ISA Brown

The ISA Brown is a favorite chicken breed to raise if you want a low-maintenance bird that is a very proficient in laying eggs. They are very resilient and gentle, making them the perfect addition to any backyard coop.

They have light brown chestnut feathers and are well-suited to a variety of climates and chicken coop styles. The ISA Brown is a hybrid breed so should be purchased from a reputable breeder. They were created specifically for their egg production abilities and weigh in at about 5 pounds each.

2. Rhode Island Red

The Rhode Island Red is also known for laying many eggs. However, these hens are also good for those who wish to raise chickens for meat, making them the perfect backyard bird. In fact, one hen may lay up to 250 brown eggs a year. Add one hen for each member of the family and there will be no need to buy eggs again.

3. White Leghorns

Some families prefer white eggs, and White Leghorns are excellent at producing. One hen of this type lays up to 300 eggs per year.

The key to successfully raising these chickens is to ensure they have the right amount of heat, food, and water at all times. Furthermore, they aren’t as concerned about having room to move, so those who don’t have space to allow their chickens to free-range will appreciate this breed.

Raising Hens for Meat

4. Cornish Cross

Cornish Cross chickens are an excellent choice for individuals raising birds for meat. In only seven to eight weeks, this bird reaches a weight of four pounds, perfect for broiling.

The breasts are broad, the thighs and legs are large, and the skin is rich and yellow. The entire family will enjoy dining on this bird any day of the year.

5. Faverolles

Don’t hesitate to pick up a few Faverolles for the flock if you are breeding birds for meat. They can withstand any climate and are very calm and docile.

When space is at a premium, this is the bird to get, as they withstand confinement with ease. The salmon favorolles are the most common color, but they are also available in white or mahogany.

6. Brahmas

Considered fancy birds, Brahmas are known for their meat, although they also lay a decent number of eggs. These animals are quiet and tame, making them perfect for owners with families.

Furthermore, they don’t mind being hugged, which is what everyone who sees them will want to do thanks to their fluffy feathers and general appearance.

Decorative and Fun Breeds

7. Austrolops

Consider adding some Austrolops to your flock if you love birds with brilliant plumage. They have black feathers with a green and purple sheen with white or grey feet.

These animals are very proficient egg layers, and they have a pleasant personality. The Austrolop chickens are also known to be very hardy and can survive colder winters.

8. Silkies

Silkie chickens are known for their style. Think of flamboyant celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Elton John. The Silkie serves as their chicken counterparts, and these creatures are small, docile, and broody. Take time to pet them on a regular basis, as they truly enjoy it when they get the extra attention.

9. Araucana

Imagine blue eggs on the dining room table. This dream can become a reality when you add Araucana chickens to your flock. Their distinct markings allow them to stand out the first time you lay eyes on them, and their blue eggs will have you remembering them for some time to come.

10. Plymouth Rock

For those who like pink, Plymouth Rocks chickens are the breed to buy. These hens lay brown eggs with a touch of pink, and the eggs are large. In addition, this type of bird is known for its meat, so owners can benefit from the addition of these creatures to their flock in more ways.

Which Chicken Breeds Are Good With Kids?

Children love chickens too, so be sure to pick up some docile birds that won’t mind being snuggled by the littlest members of the family. Breeds suitable for this purpose include Silkies, Australorps, and ISA Browns, as mentioned above, along with Sussex and Orpingtons chickens.

Which is Your Favorite Chicken Breed?

Don’t settle for one breed when raising chickens in your backyard. With so many breeds to select from, every family can find the right combination for their needs.

Be sure to provide plenty of room for the birds to mingle while still having their own space. Doing so ensures the flock stays happy and healthy at all times.

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How to Set Up a Chicken Brooder for Mail-Order Hatchery Chicks

Congratulations! You’ve placed an order for hatchery chicks, and you can’t wait until your box of peeping fluffballs arrive at the post office.

Shipping Day-Old Hatchlings

It’s hard not to worry when you are waiting for your new chicks to arrive. But don’t fret, the hatcheries take great care to ensure your chicks arrive in good condition.

Newly-hatched chicks can go without food or water for about 72 hours, enough time for expedited mail order delivery. During this time, the yolks baby chicks absorb into their bodies before they emerge from their shells continue to nourish them, and they stay warm thanks to the company of their carton mates during shipping.

This explains why hatcheries require a minimum quantity for shipping day-old chicks and ducklings, and why they don’t ship out poultry until early spring when there’s less chance that weather conditions will delay delivery. Your hatchery will likely alert you when they’ve shipped your order so you can be ready to pick up your hatchlings from your local post office as soon as they call to announce their arrival. 

Long before their delivery date, you’ll want to make sure you’re equipped to care for your baby chicks. Here’s how to set up and maintain your brooding equipment from arrival to their graduation to the outside coop.

Choose a Location For Your Chicken Brooder

First, you’ll need to decide where to set up your brooder. You’ll need an electrical source and a sheltered area protected by the elements. Ideal housing for your brooder may include your enclosed garage, barn, shop or walk-in empty chicken coop. 

Tip: Insulated, draft-free rooms or buildings help maintain consistent brooder temperatures, reducing the risk of overheated or chilled chicks. 

Be sure the area is safe from rodents and larger predators, as well as from unsupervised children. 

Select a Brooder Enclosure

The best enclosures for brooding hatchlings on a backyard or homestead scale, hands-down, are round or oval galvanized steel water troughs. Here’s why: 

No corners in which chicks can “pile up” and suffocate 

Steep, smooth walls keep rodents out and chicks in

Drain plugs allow for easier cleaning in between batches

Non-porous galvanized metal is easier to disinfect

Portable, durable, relatively lightweight, and multi-purpose, offsetting investment costs

For most chicken breeds, allow for at least a half square foot floor space per bird the first four weeks and a full square foot from age one-month-old until the time the birds have most of their adult feathers and are ready to move to their permanent coop. 

Taller-sided galvanized water troughs accommodate taller, older chicks and birds that are starting to flutter up to perches, but you’ll still want to fashion a simple screened top made from wire mesh stapled to a lightweight wooden frame to contain more adventurous birds. 

Heat Lamp Placement – Keeping Your Chicks Warm

Set up your brooder where you can suspend a heat lamp or two over the top. You should be able to raise and lower the lamp according to ambient temperatures and the birds’ comfort levels. As a guideline, if the chicks are clustered in a tight bunch at the center of the lit area, you need to lower the lamp; if they’re as far away from the illuminated bedding, it’s far too hot. Happy chicks will rest in a loose circle at the edge of the ring of light. 

Your brooder should be large enough to offer different temperature zones, and enough “sweet spot” warming for all of your chicks. 

Again, it’s important that the building or room in which you’ve set up your brooder doesn’t experience drastic shifts in ambient temperature, which will affect your heat lamp’s ability to create the right zones. 

For more temperature-specific recommendations, check out the below chart.

AgeBrooder Temperature0 to 1 week93°-95° F (33.9°-35°C)1 to 2 weeks88°-90°F (31.1°-32.2°C)2 to 3 weeks83°-85°F (28.3°-29.4°C)3 to 4 weeks78°-80° F (25.6′ -26.7°C)4 to 5 weeks75°F (23.9°C)5 to 6 weeks70°F (21.1°C)6 weeks and olderComfort Zone 50°-70°F (10 -29.4°C)

Data provided by the University of Colorado Extension Office.

Bedding/Substrate Types

You’ll need an absorbent substrate to soak up droppings, help retain and regulate ambient temperatures, and reduce odors. It also helps your birds keep their footing. Slick, bare surfaces cause foot sores (bumblefoot) as well as splayed legs.

Replace damp and heavily soiled areas of bedding each day, and be careful to clean up any areas where waterers have soaked the substrate. 

Pine shavings are absorbent and inexpensive. Try to find a source of pine shavings packaged for animal bedding to ensure they haven’t been treated with harmful chemicals. In between replacement, use a gardening fork to stir shavings to help dry them out and increase its insulating abilities. 

Pelleted paper pulp is a great substrate for growing chicks, with the added bonus of reduced dust. Better yet, they don’t tend to get tracked into feeders and waterers as easily, and they’re less messy than shavings. These are often dark grey in color and help absorb and distribute heat in your brooder. Used pulp paper products compost easily. 

Chemical-free wood pellets are another popular alternative to pine shavings, but as they break down they become dusty and muddy. 

Chick Waterers and Feeders

Chick-size waterers and feeders are better suited to young birds than adult-sized equipment, and if they lose their water seal, don’t cause catastrophic flooding. The warm, wet conditions ideal for brooding are also ideal for bacterial growth, so be sure to clean waterers and feeders daily. 

Speaking of feeders, growing poultry have age-specific dietary needs. Be sure to have the right food for the right growth stage available before you need it. 

Acclimating Pullets to Outdoor Housing

As your chicks mature and their pinfeathers give way to adult plumage (6-8 weeks), you can move them into their permanent chicken coop. Provide a heat lamp for them there so they can seek warmth as needed, especially if temperatures drop below 50°F. 

It’s so gratifying to raise your own chickens, especially when they surprise you with their very first egg. Brooding your own birds is fun, entertaining and educational, and a great way to learn about each individual chicken’s own personality. 

Before you know it, you’ll be ready for the next challenge: Incubating and hatching.

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The Cost of Raising Backyard Chickens – Will You Save Money?

People often wonder if purchasing chickens to raise in the backyard is worth the time and money they will invest. This is a personal decision everyone considering this step will need to make. However, having an idea of how much it costs to raise the chickens will be of help. Following are some ballpark figures to assist in this process.

The Chickens

The price per chicken will vary with the breed selected. You can expect to pay anywhere from $3 to $30 per chicken, depending on the age and breed of the chicken. For our example, we will use the Rhode Island Reds, a popular breed for many backyard flocks. Baby chicks cost just a few dollars each, but they require special care when first hatched. Add at least $100 to the budget if you are raising baby chicks. Common expenses include a brooder box for chicks (about $70 on Amazon), a heat lamp and bulb (about $30) to keep them warm.

New chicken owners may prefer to buy started chickens that are at least 4 weeks old, since they require less special care and equipment in their new home. Juvinile chickens can be purchased from local hatcheries as well as online. For example, four week old Rhode Island Reds at the McMurray Hatchery cost about $17 each.

Video: Rhode Island Red Chickens

Here is a great video where you can see the changes from a young chick to a mature hen. It’s amazing how fast your chickens will grow.

Consider both the cost and time it will take to raise your new chickens to an age where they start to producing eggs. The Reds will lay their first eggs at about 18 to 20 weeks.

The Coop

The Mobile Chicken Coop available from the Urban Chicken Coop

Chickens truly don’t have much preference when it comes to their shelter. If they have room to move, a place to roost and a nesting area for hens, they tend to be happy. For this reason, a person can spend as little or as much as they want on providing this shelter. The amount of money spent on the chicken coop is normally more dependent on the owner’s preference and style.

If you purchase a brand new chicken coop, this will likely be your biggest expense. Consider these two options from the Urban Coop Company. The first is a mobile coop which can house two to four chickens. The price for this chicken coop is about $500.

A second option from the same company is tall enough walk-in and check on your chickens. This design can hold up to six chickens, so is just slightly larger however the price is about a thousand dollars higher at $1650.

The Standup Chicken Coop available from the Urban Coop Company

As you can see you can spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars for a fancy coop that is brand new. Keep in mind this is not necessary, and the average person will spend around $500 on a coop for four birds. But when sizing your chicken coop, the general consensus is to go bigger than you think you will need. Somehow we always end up buying more chickens.

Since this can be a major cost for many families, you can also go the DIY route and build your own. You can even use mostly recycled materials and keep the costs way down. If you decide to build a coop from a set of design plans, you will have a wide range of materials to choose from based on your budget.

Feed and Other Materials Needed

Chickens must be fed regularly. Plan on a minimum budget of about $15 per month per chicken for feed. Free range chickens may need slightly less, and organic and or medicated feed will cost more. There are many brands to choose from.

When actively laying eggs a hen needs more food, and chickens eat less when the temperatures start to rise. Be sure to take these factors into account when budgeting for food.

General Care

Miscellaneous supplies will be required to take care of your flock. Here are a few common expenses you can expect.

Bedding material such as wood shavings, straw or shredded newspaper will need to be replaced on a regular basis in the hen house. Budget $10 a month for the bedding.

Chickens need to see the vet at times and may require medication. This adds to the cost of raising them. An average vet vist will run you about $75.

Cost of repairs to the coop and or chicken fencing can be expected, especially if you have predators such as racoons or fox nearby.

Pest control and removal can add to the chicken owners expense. Snakes and mice are commonly found in the hen house and should be taken care of quickly.

Daily supplies such as egg cartons, tools and cleaning supplies should all be factored into the overall budget.

Food Rewards

As a person goes to determine if raising chickens is a viable option, they look at the cost of eggs in a store as well as how much they pay to purchase chicken for lunch or dinner. While prices vary by the area, we’ll use some averages to compute the overall price point. Eggs cost about $3 a dozen; $4 for organic or free-range.

Cost of Raising 4 Chickens for 1 Year

OK, now it’s time to sum it all up. We will base our estimate on 1 year using some ballpark figures. We’ll assume our family built their own chicken coop from one of the design plans on our site. They used all new materials from the hardware store.

4 Chickens @ $20 each: $80

Chicken Coop Buildout: $200

Cost of Chicken Feed: $60

Vet Bills: $100

Miscellanous Supplies: $50

Total Cost: $490 (Year 1)

In Year 2, you won’t have the initial investment cost, so your costs become much more affordable.

Cost of Chicken Feed: $60

Vet Bills: $100

Miscellanous Supplies: $50

Total Cost: $210 (Year 2)

The Verdict: Will You Save Money?

Now – Let’s estimate the savings from having farm fresh eggs. We’ll assume a family of 4 that eats eggs 3x a week. This makes the math nice and easy.  That’s 1 dozen eggs a week and just about what 4 chickens will produce.  Total Savings: $4 x 36 weeks = $144 saved in grocery store egg costs. We estimated 36 weeks of egg production based on based on the purchase of 4 week old chickens that are ready to produce at 20 weeks.

In year one, a flock of four hens will actually cost you money. Based on our example, you would have spent an extra $346. In year two however, you won’t have the extra cost of building the hen house or the wait time for your chickens to mature. The year 2 savings will be the full 52 weeks @ $4 each, which is 208. This means by the second year, you will break even.

Year2 Cost: $210 with a savings of $208; so by the second year, you will break even.

However, what people also need to consider is the quality of the food when they purchase chicken or eggs in a grocery store. Can one truly know if the food contains chemicals or hormones? These are only two concerns that many people have when it comes to their groceries. Some people choose to buy organic products to avoid these issues. However, this increases the cost even more. As a result, many people will find raising chickens for eggs and meat is a smart move.

What many people fail to consider when determining whether raising chickens is worth the expense is the entertainment they provide. Many families opt to purchase breeds that love to be petted and held, making them a great outdoor pet for kids. Furthermore, they don’t make messes in the house, and they can be very entertaining to watch as they run around the backyard. Children learn how to care for animals and discover a great deal about life in the process. They get firsthand knowledge of what it takes to keep the animals safe, comfortable and happy. There is no price that can be put on this.

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How to Prepare Chickens for Cold Weather

Did you know that chickens can handle cold weather better than extreme heat? Regardless, they do appreciate some help from their owners in the winter time. Here are a few things to consider that help your flock deal with colder weather.

How Chickens Keep Warm

To stay comfortable, chickens have a few built–in behaviors to stay comfortable in colder temperatures.

They create air pockets to trap warm air near their bodies by puffing up their feathers.

They also stand on one foot and keep the other nestled in their plumage.

To protect their combs from frostbite, they tuck their heads beneath their wing.

Since chickens have these built-in mechanisms for staving off cold, heating the coop is usually not necessary. Heat sources are more dangerous than the cold because they can create fires.

The chill of winter does not bother chickens nearly as much as very hot weather.

1. Offer Extra Food

Chickens need extra food in the winter to keep their natural defenses in top shape. This especially applies to birds that free-range in normal weather conditions, but have to stay in a coop when it’s cold.

Make the food available all day long, but put it away at night to keep unwanted critters away.

Offer extra fat as part of a high-protein diet.

It’s a good idea to supplement the feed with dried insects because they offer these nutrients.

If you follow the deep-litter method, add some scratch grains into the bedding about half an hour before bedtime. These carbohydrates will help the chickens stay warm. Since the chickens scratch around to find these grains, they will also turn over their bedding.

2. Provide Edible Amusement

Everyone gets bored when cooped up, and chickens are no exception. To keep them entertained, hang up edible garlands that include chicken-friendly vegetables and fruit.

Chickens love fresh fruits and vegetables as a treat.

These include berries, radishes, carrots, squash, beets, and cabbage. Not only do these encourage exercise they also make a fresh addition to their winter diet.

3. Keep Water from Freezing

While chickens consume more water in the summer than they do in the winter, they require it all year long. That’s why you need to ensure that fresh water is available at all times and that it doesn’t freeze.

Chickens need water to generate heat, maintain their functions and grow feathers. If you don’t have electricity in the coops, check the water sources throughout the day and replace them as needed.

4. Use Proper Ventilation

Since chickens don’t sweat, they exhale lots of vapors when breathing. The resulting ammonia and humidity collect as condensation in enclosed spaces.

In cold temperatures, this can cause respiratory problems and frostbite. That’s why ventilation is important.

Ideally, vents should be situated high above the roosting platform. Cover the open parts with hardware cloth so that pests and predators can’t get in.

5. Provide Suitable Roosts

Since chickens huddle together for warmth, they need a large enough roosting area that can hold them. It needs to be big enough to allow all the chickens to sit together. Snuggling together lets them use the body heat from each other.

Chickens will huddle together to stay warm in winter months.

Once you understand how chickens deal with cold weather, you can easily help them stay comfortable. All it takes is proper coop management. Fresh water, good food, suitable ventilation, and adequate roosting space will keep them happy through cold spells.

The post How to Prepare Chickens for Cold Weather appeared first on Chicken Coop Designs.

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Baby Chicks By Mail? You Bet! – Fun Chicken Videos

Ever wondered what it would be like to have your chicks delivered by mail? Watch as these 2-day old chicks arrive fresh from the post office.

The Knight Family Farm introduces over 200 new baby chicks to their new home. They have an awesome setup & the chicks look very happy to be home.

Notice how they dip the chick’s beak in the waterer so they know where to find a drink. What a fun day!!!

Video: The Baby Chickens Are Here!

200 New Chicks Arrive from the Post Office!

The post Baby Chicks By Mail? You Bet! – Fun Chicken Videos appeared first on Chicken Coop Designs.

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How To Build A Chicken Coop How To Build A Chicken Coop From Scratch review

Building a Chicken Coop

Building a chicken coop does not have to be tricky nor does it have to set you back a ton of scratch.

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I understand that building a chicken coop can seem like a hard project. Working out dimensions, materials, insulation, ventilation, lighting, positioning, nesting, perches, waste collection and protection from the elements and other predators can seem complicated, but it doesn’t have to be.

Use My Proven Experience When Building a Chicken Coop For Lasting Results

Luckily, for you, I use my vast experience of the Poultry industry, to develop, create, and construct utterly amazing and extremely affordable chicken coops, based from easy to follow guides and chicken coop plans.

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First published here: How To Build A Chicken Coop How To Build A Chicken Coop From Scratch review