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Leaking Toilet
This topic covers the most common reason why water appears around the base of a toilet, or why water damage occurs on a ceiling under a toilet, why it is a serious problem and how to fix it yourself.
Why does a toilet leak around the base? Almost always it will be a broken seal, but you will also want to check the water supply hose, the tank connection to the toilet and for cracks or damage to the toilet and tank.
A bad seal is either old, worn, poorly installed or otherwise damaged. Every time you flush, a bit of water escapes through cracks or gaps in the seal, onto the floor under the toilet and then out from the base of the toilet.
Implications This water is contaminated toilet water, which on its own is a health hazard, but additionally the water may get into the flooring causing damage to the floor, walls, ceiling (of low levels) and may lead to mold, rot, and bad smells.
Costs This may seem like a major project to repair, but it is actually incredibly easy and very cheap to do yourself. A new wax ring is about $3-5, you will most likely also need new anchor bolts which are about $5-10, you may also want new caps for about $3-7 and if your toilet is old (15+ years) you will probably want to upgrade which will be about $120-150 for standard toilets or $140-$200 for dual flush toilets.
If you are replacing the toilet, first measure the rough in, this is the distance from the wall (not the molding) to the anchor bolts, the most common rough in is 12 inches, finding toilets with a smaller rough in may be a challenge.
Repairing
1. Remove the lid from the tank, then use the toilet water shut off valve to turn the water off to the toilet. Flush the toilet holding the handle / button down until as much water in the tank is drained as possible. Use a sponge or towel to absorb the remaining water in the bowl and tank.
2. Place a towel under the tank, below the supply hose and disconnect it from the tank, if the supply line drips a little just leave the towel there to absorb the water, if it leaks heavily you can use a bucket to catch the water or shut the water off to the house (in that case replacing the shut off valve is also recommended, but that's a different project).
3. Remove the anchor caps from both sides of the toilet, then remove the nuts. These bolts will often just spin because they are not locked in to anything, so you will likely need a pair of pliers to hold the bolt as you loosen the nut. Most of the time the bolt will be permanently damaged during removal. If the nut and bolt are badly rusted you will need to use a hack saw to cut through the bolt, slide the saw blade under the nut, it only takes a minute of sawing to cut through the bolt.
4. With the nuts removed, the toilet is ready to be moved, you can place a towel on the floor to put the toilet on, then just lift the toilet straight up and set it on the towel. If the weight of the toilet is a challenge for you, you can remove the tank to make the rest of the job easier. The tank is secured using two bolts from inside the tank to nuts on the underside of the toilet, remove the nuts and lift the tank off.
5. Now you will be removing the old seal, while there are different types, the most common is a wax ring with a rubber flange attached. Put on some disposable gloves and reach into the drain, about two inches down there will be a little edge, that is the bottom of the old flange of the seal, pull up on it to remove the flange and some of the wax seal. Use a scrapper to remove the remaining wax around the floor flange, then wipe away as much of the wax as you can. You can use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to thoroughly clean the old wax.
6. If the old anchor bolts were damaged during the removal of the toilet, put the new ones in now.
7. If you are not replacing the toilet, you will need to clean the wax from the underside of the toilet around the outlet, you may need to use mineral spirits to get all the wax off. Install the new wax ring to the underside of the toilet around the outlet, push it on firmly enough to hold it in place effectively without it falling off.
8. Line up the toilet with the anchor bolts and carefully lower in place so that the wax ring flange is properly in the center of the drain. The best way to do this is having a spotter with a flash light watch as one person lowers the toilet straight down, but if you’re by yourself, you can have the toilet with one side on the ground, and from the other side, slowly lower the toilet watching to be sure it is properly lined up with the drain.
9. With the toilet resting on the floor, put your weight onto the toilet to squish the wax seal down a bit, then put both cap bases, washers and nuts on the anchor bolts and tighten. They do not need to be excessively tightened, just enough to hold the toilet to the floor without the toilet moving, then put the anchor caps on.
10. If you removed the tank, or are installing a new toilet, attach the tank now, be sure the gasket is properly attached to the tank and then line the bolts up with the toilet and lower the tank into place. Put the washers and nuts on the bolts from under the toilet and tighten until the tank rests firmly on the toilet, make sure you do not over tighten as you may cause irreversible damage to the toilet or tank.
11. Connect the water supply line to the tank and then turn on the shut off valve. Once the tank is full, give it a test flush and the put the tank cover on.
Your toilet is repaired / replaced!
Note This does not cover all the implications and repairs of damage caused to the floor, walls or ceilings from a leaking toilet. This topic is strictly intended to deal with replacing a wax seal.
Disclaimer There is no single right answer to all situations. There are many factors and conditions relating to this issue that can be considered for better solutions. The opinions here are based on a very broad and general approach to the common problem discussed in this topic. Other professionals may have a different opinion. Without being inspected it can not be assumed that the approaches here are right for your situation.
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Disconnected Dryer Duct
This topic covers why you need to ensure your dryer duct is intact and why it is a problem.
Why does the dryer duct disconnect? The dryer duct is used to vent out the warm, moist air that is generated through drying laundry. The hot air combined with the movement of the dryer and the flow of air through the duct can very easily disconnect or damage the duct or connections.
Implications The warm moist air can damage drywall, finishes (paint, trim, etc.) and the lint in the air is a pollutant that can cause irritation for people with breathing problems.
Maintenance Every 3 months or so, just look behind the dryer and check that the duct is intact. If there is even a small gap there will be the presence of lint, if you see any lint, pull the dryer out to fully inspect the duct, patching or re-attaching the duct.
Disclaimer There is no single right answer to all situations. There are many factors and conditions relating to this issue that can be considered for better solutions. The opinions here are based on a very broad and general approach to the common problem discussed in this topic. Other professionals may have a different opinion. Without being inspected it can not be assumed that the approaches here are right for your situation.
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Roof Leaks
This topic covers the most common reasons why a roof leaks, how to prevent it from occurring and what to do if the roof is leaking.
Why does a roof leak? Most roofs do not have a waterproof sealing (membrane), they instead work like an umbrella, shedding water using gravity.
The most common reason roofs leak is because the roof is old. But that is not the only reason why roofs leak, they are also prone to leaking due to damage, vulnerable areas (changes in direction due to design) and improperly installed materials or flashing.
Also, almost all skylights will leak at some point.
Implications Water entering the building can go unnoticed for quite some time, it also rarely shows up directly below where the roof leaks. Even a small leak can cause considerable damage before the leak is noticed.
Structural components of the home are much more resistant to water damage than drywall, insulation and finishing materials (trim, hard wood flooring, etc.). So when a roof does leak, most of the damage is not structural, fixing the leak will allow the structural components to dry and the interior can be repaired.
Preventing leaks You should maintain your roof and inspect it for damage, missing or loose pieces every spring, fall and after extreme weather. Look from both the exterior and the attic. If there is damage, have it patched immediately. Once your roof begins to age, don’t wait for your roof to leak to replace it.
You wouldn’t drive around on bald tires in the winter, because you are almost certain to get into an accident causing thousands of dollars damage to your car, buying new tires every few years is just common sense, the same as replacing your roof, only every decade or more.
Disclaimer There is no single right answer to all situations. There are many factors and conditions relating to this issue that can be considered for better solutions. The opinions here are based on a very broad and general approach to the common problem discussed in this topic. Other professionals may have a different opinion. Without being inspected it can not be assumed that the approaches here are right for your situation.
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Window Mold
This topic covers the most common reason why mold grows around windows, how to prevent it from occurring and how to clean it up if the problem already exists.
Why does mold grow around windows? Mold is everywhere, the spores are invisible to the naked eye and no matter how much you clean, there will always be mold spores in the air of your home.
If something gets wet for a short period of time, the mold spores may land and begin to grow, if the surface or material dries, the mold will be unable to continue to grow. But if the surface or material is continually wet, the mold will flourish and spread.
Windows are typically a cool surface, especially during winter, where indoor humidity is drawn to the window and condenses. Think of an ice cold drink on a warm day and all the condensation on the outside of the drink. The condensation settles, due to gravity, into the window sill and window tracks. This is where mold is most likely going to grow.
Implications Mold can cause health issues, especially for people who suffer from asthma or other breathing related illnesses.
If a surface or material is constantly wet enough for mold to thrive, it is likely that the material will become permanently damaged. Often the damage is hidden within the wall.
In extreme cases mold clean and up and removal costs can come with a very high cost, as the job will be considered ‘hazardous’ and special procedures must be followed.
How do you prevent mold? If you have mold around your windows your indoor humidity is most likely too high. Control indoor humidity by always using the bathroom fan when bathing or showering, use your range hood fan when cooking and occasionally check that your dryer duct is connected to the dryer and no air or lint is escaping into the house.
If you have a humidifier installed with your furnace, be sure to have it set lower for the winter than you do in the summer. If you are using plug in humidifiers inside the home, such as a bedrooms, you should stop using them.
If you live in a newer home you will have a house ventilation fan. The primary purpose of this switch is to cycle out polluted indoor air with fresh outdoor air. Though it also helps to remove access indoor humidity. Run this fan a minimum of twice a day for at least 30 minutes each time.
How to clean mold? The simplest and most effective method is mixing 1/4 cup of bleach with 1 liter of water in a spray bottle, spray the effected area and wipe clean.
Alternatively you can use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water, though this method may not be as effective at killing all the mold.
For more extreme cases removal of drywall, insulation, etc., may be necessary.
Disclaimer There is no single right answer to all situations. There are many factors and conditions relating to this issue that can be considered for better solutions. The opinions here are based on a very broad and general approach to the common problem discussed in this topic. Other professionals may have a different opinion. Without being inspected it can not be assumed that the approaches here are right for your situation.
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Common Concrete Cracks
This topic covers common / minor cracks, more serve cracking should be properly inspected.
Why does concrete crack? As concrete cures, it hardens and dries which causes it to shrink slightly, this causes small cracks. This is the most common type of crack and occurs in almost all concrete.
As buildings or slabs settle, the weight of the building or slab can cause shifting of the earth which can cause the concrete to crack, this is known as a settlement crack. These types of cracks are also quite common and tend to be larger than cracks caused by curing.
Implications Most foundation and basement floor cracks are very small and there is only a small risk of water penetration through these cracks.
Visible cracks exposed to the elements may become worse as they may suffer deterioration from freeze-thaw cycles.
Cracks where vehicles drive across or park on are more likely to become worse, due to the added weight of the vehicle.
What should you do? Cracks exposed to the elements, or where vehicles drive / park, should be sealed to prevent further damage.
There is no harm in sealing visible cracks in an unfinished basement, but often it is not necessary. If you are finishing a basement the best practice is to properly seal all cracks.
If the crack is large enough to fit a key into the crack you should have the crack(s) inspected and properly fixed.
Other information Often with finished basements there will be cracks behind the walls and under the flooring that are not sealed and no problems occur.
Disclaimer There is no single right answer to all situations. There are many factors and conditions relating to this issue that can be considered for better solutions. The opinions here are based on a very broad and general approach to the common problem discussed in this topic. Other professionals may have a different opinion. Without being inspected it can not be assumed that the approaches here are right for your situation.
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