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Comme Des Garcons

The Met Gala marks the opening of the Costume Institute's annual fashion exhibit in the Met. Every year there is an established theme that celebrates the exhibition. This theme sets the mood for what everyone wears in attendance. Comme des Garcons is the definition of avant garde fashion. Those that chose to dawn a Comme des Garcons piece were part of a daring minority. Rihanna, Caroline Kennedy, and Tracee Ellis Ross are some of those who strutted down the red carpet in the pieces of art. A big topic of discussion lately is whether Comme des Garcons is fashion or art. When reading through the exhibition pamphlet I read, “Fashion is not art. You sell art to one person. Fashion comes in a series and it is a more social phenomenon,” said Rei Kawakubo. This couldn’t be more true. A social phenomenon is exactly what her collections and exhibit is doing. Everyone is talking about it. Rei Kawakubo believes her pieces are Zen koans which are riddles. They bewilder those who seek. Either way the pieces are inspirational. Like any other couture label it inspires the trickle down effect. This is what most red carpet glam represented. Her designs inspired other designers to create unexpected pieces that challenged their traditional norm. Actress Priyanka Chopra wore a classic Ralph Lauren trench coat dress. However attached was a flowing train which was a nod to the exaggerated Comme des Garcons. This Ralph Lauren piece may then go on to inspire other brands such as J Crew in a continuation of the trickle down effect.

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer and founder of Comme des Garcons. Not only did she found Comme des Garcons in 1969, but she also founded Dover Street Market in New York City.  The translation of Comme des Garcons is “likes some boys”. The exhibit was given the name Art of the In-Between. There were nine different collections presented in the exhibit. Absence of Presence, Design/Not Design, Fashion/Antifashion, Model/Multiple, High/Low, Then/Now, Self/Other, Object/Subject, and Clothes/Not Clothes were the represented collections. Her designs push boundaries where she relates koan mu (emptiness) and ma (space) with an in between concept.

My favorite garments from the exhibit were from the Abstract of Excellence collection. These were from Comme des Garcons Spring/Summer 2004 line. The white skirts were made out of cotton twill topped with a black interfacing. This collections falls under the theme Model/Multiple. When designing Rei Kawakubo mentioned that she did not take into consideration the body. She wanted a shapeless, abstract, intangible form. The entire Abstract of Excellence collections features 34 skirts. There seemed to be uniformity and standardization among the skirts, however small details, colors, and fabrics were changed. Rei Kawakubo was trying to convey a powerful message between unique artwork and mass production. I liked these pieces because of the femininity they portrayed. The silhouette reminded me of my ballet tutu from my senior dance recital. I also was found of the unfinished trims that gave them an edgy look.

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WGSN

WGSN was founded in 1998 in London by two brothers Julian and Marc Worth. It is an online service that delivers subscriptions to companies in five different categories. Insight, Fashion, Lifestyle & Interiors, Instock, Styletrial, and Bespoke are the different categories. Trend Forecasting helps show companies what is the newest innovation in apparel, color, beauty, retail, and marketing. This service is used among companies in over 86 countries. There are offices in North America, Europe, The Middle East, Africa, Asia Pacific, and Latin America. The company forecasts 2 years in advance. For fashion uses there are over 14 different product categories that are covered. There are over 22million images and thousands of royalty free prints, graphics, and CADS. 1,300 runway shows and 150 runway analysis reports are uploaded per season instantly.

I always think of WGSN as fashion forecasting. I have used it for all of my projects throughout school. It was a nice refresher that they also work with other companies and other products that aren’t fashion related. I really wish I knew about their city highlight section when I was studying abroad. It would have provided us with trendy places to eat and see. These were two things were constantly searching for.

Sean’s job is in sales and one of his clients is Kent State University. His background was in theater and had no prior fashion industry. He keeps in contact with Kent State University to keep the membership subscription and to also give tours like ours. I asked him at the very end if he considered Doneger to be a competitor. He said they don’t consider them a competitor at all. This is surprising to me because I use Doneger maybe more than WGSN when working on homework. However he is right because of WGSN’s extensive website.

Sara is an editor for the company. She has a very strong background. She mentioned how she likes to crrp on linkedin and I actually found her. She previously worked at Doneger before coming to WGSN. She showed us one of her articles. Sara talked about how yes writing an article is creative and fun. However there is a lot of research and analyzing that takes place. She gave advice that to pursue a position similar to hers that having a portfolio of writing is a good place to start. Creating a blog is where she started, and there are many more resources. An example would be college fashionista. After hearing her advice I am thinking of applying to college fashionista so that I can add something else to my resume. Hearing that there are employees whose jobs are to travel and experience new things then write about them sounds so appealing and is so inspiring.

 At times I find myself comfortable with my sales job. However listening to Sara talk made me realize that I can offer so much more. I find myself drawn to a career that is more creative. It helps challenge myself instead of being routine. I will keep this in mind when applying to jobs after graduation.

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Burlington

Burlington started as a coat wholesaler in 1924. Thus, landing the name Burlington Coat Factory. The first store opened in New Jersey which is where their headquarters is located. However, they do have an office in New York City. Over the years the concept of the store evolved into a one stop shop. Now stores feature coats, apparel, shoes, and accessories for the entire family, plus baby clothing, furniture, travel gear, toys, home decor items, and gifts. The company recently dropped Coat Factory from their name because they don’t want to limit themselves. They want customers to know that they have much more in store than just coats. They offer designer merchandise up to 65% off other retailer’s prices.

My internship is a vendor who has Burlington as an account. I am constantly going to their floor to drop off samples. It was interesting to hear their side of the business. I am interning in the sales department but we have design and product development in house. So when Lisa and Jessica were talking I was able to connect the dots. They explained how they try to get the cheapest price for the best quality. I am always hearing my bosses go over prices with the buyers. They also talked about having a best selling style and updating it. Our company is constantly updating our samples. Design will sometimes sit in on the meeting to go over changes with the sales rep and buyer. I like the challenge of trying to reinvent something that’s already been done. They mentioned that the off price retailer business is really growing. This is comforting knowing that there is a potential chance I will end up back at my company after graduation. They talked about how fast pace their business model is compared to others. They are moving merchandise fast. The work you do matters because if you take off work then your product is at a standstill.

 I liked how Lisa described her passion for what she does. She talked about how yes it was cool to work at Lord and Taylor and attend fashion shows. However it is fulfilling to her to find pieces for her customer at Walmart who can’t afford much but still wants to look nice. It makes the job more of a challenge. A customer at Walmart is shopping at Walmart because she has to due to money. So creating something for this customer is rewarding. I do hope that one day I can also experience the side of the industry where I get to attend fashion shows and work with high end pieces. I love my internship and there has been much talk about coming back after graduation. Hearing that off price retail is booming is very exciting since there is possibility those are the companies I would be working with. When I asked, Jessica told me that she works with one the VP of sales Jonathan at my company. I sit next to Jonathan at work and help him extensively. Right there was a great networking opportunity.

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FIT

The FIT museum was founded in 1969 but installed in it’s current building in 1974. In 1975 exhibitions began to be presented. The museum has been curated by Dr. Valerie Steele since 1997. He has also served as a director on the museum board since 2003. More than 100,000 people visit the museum each year. Admission is free to the public. There are three different exhibitions. The permanent collection contains over 50,000 pieces ranging from the 18th century to the present. Designers such as Dior, Chanel, and Balenciaga are represented. The special exhibition gallery is changed every six months. However it always covers 250 years worth of fashion history. The third gallery is devoted to exhibiting student and faculty and designs.

The FIT museum also has the Couture Council. This is a membership that supports the museum’s exhibits and programs. The first Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion in 2006 was given to Ralph Rucci in 2006. There is an advisory committee that selects the award winner. The committee consisted of curators, editors, and retailers. Past award winners are Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, and Manolo Blahnik.

The current special exhibit is Black Fashion Designers. The exhibit expresses the challenges faced by black designers. You can visualize how their experiences have changed over time through their designs. Black designers began to gain recognition in the late 1940s even though there was still segregation. In the 1970s, designer Willi Smith recalled,” There was this tremendous exposure given to designers based on their blackness.” The garments ranged from streetwear to couture. Not only were the garments designed by black designers but some were also worn by black influencers. One fun aspect of the museum was a screen playing James Corden Late show with Michelle Obama. Then the dress she wore in the interview was displayed next to the screen.

The dress that caught my eye the most was designed by Eric Gaskins in 2014. He trained and apprenticed with Givenchy before establishing his own company in 1987. His design was inspired by the brushwork of his favorite artist Franz Kline. Franz Kline is an American artist. His paintings are associated with the Abstract Expressionist movement of the 1940s and 1950s. Franz Kline is most famous for his black and white abstractions. They are inspired by the New York skyline,, the landscape of his childhood home in rural Pennsylvania, and Japanese calligraphy.

What looks like a brushstroke is made up of beading. From afar, the dress looks like it had a brush stroke printed on. However when you got closer you could see the detail and the millions of beads. You could tell a lot of time was put into this piece. The detail is what and inspiration set this garment apart from any other black and white dress. Eric Gaskins is a New York designer. He launched his own label in 1987. “To create clothes that are essential, without artifice or contrivance,” is the philosophy he follows when designing. His garments have been featured in Cosmopolitan, Spy, Bazaar, Glamour, Vanity Fair, and Palm Beach Illustrated. He has dressed celebrities such as Vanessa Williams, Mariah Carey, Jada Pinkett Smith, Jennifer Lopez. All these women are also influential women of color.

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MET

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, also known as the MET, was founded on April 13, 1870. Inside is over 5,000 years worth of art from all around the world. These pieces are placed in 17 different departments. The current director of the museum is Thomas Campbell who took position in 2008.

"To be located in the City of New York, for the purpose of establishing and maintaining in said city a Museum and library of art, of encouraging and developing the study of the fine arts, and the application of arts to manufacture and practical life, of advancing the general knowledge of kindred subjects, and, to that end, of furnishing popular instruction," This mission statement has guided the Museum for over 140 years.

I have walked through majority of all the main MET exhibitions before briefly. There is one exhibit that I could spend all day in and that is the 19th and early 20th century European paintings and sculptures exhibit. I grew up in a dance studio with walls covered in Degas posters. Most recently while studying abroad, I visited the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. My best friends and I waited in a hail storm to get tickets and then spent what felt like hours in this museum. This experience is one of my favorite memories from studying abroad. As a whole this exhibit is filled with neo-Classicism and post-Impressionism. The paintings are mostly oil painted.

I have two favorite paintings in the impressionist section of this exhibit. My first favorite painting is Cypresses by Vincent Van Gogh. This is an oil painting that was finished in June of 1889. Van Gogh said he found the subject, “beautiful as regards lines and proportions, like Egyptian obelisk.” This painting is a close up to the Van Gogh painting, Wheat Field with Cypresses. I like this painting because it reminds me of my memory from Amsterdam. I am also fond of the color palette. The dark green of the tree contrasted on top of the light blue and white sky. I think the composition of how the painting was created is also what catches my eye. I enjoy the swirling brush strokes of the paint. I have a postcard picture of this painting on my wall in my bedroom.

The painting also reminds me of my study abroad home. Across the Arno river in Florence where you can see the best view of the city are Cypresses trees. These are the only trees we saw in Florence besides the one in our backyard. We called them Van Gogh trees.

My second favorite painting is Claude Monet, by Giverny. I like this painting because it also reminds me of a memory from abroad. The painting was inspired by a view from the Normandy coast in France, but reminds me of Capri, Italy. I was on what was supposed to be a booze cruise around the island. It began to storm as we boarded the boat. Waves crashed the boat from all angles while the tip of the boat was near capsizing. What was planned was to be able to swim around in the sun turned into a quick drive around the island back to the dock. Normally the boat would drive through the hole in the rock Faraglione di Mezzo, but it was too dangerous to do so. This painting reminds me of Faraglione di Mezzo.

When these paintings remind me of my past travels I feel reminded of how grateful I am to have been able to experience a small part of our world. This inspires me to continue traveling.

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WTS

World Textile Sourcing provides design and product development in knits to various clients in the United States. What sets this company apart from others is that it sources from Peru. They are known for using Alpaca fibers in their product which makes them known for their quality. Rag & Bone, Theory, and Tory Burch are some of their big name clients of World Textile Sourcing. Other clients include stores such as Barneys, Costco, Saks Fifth Av., and Lord & Taylor. Even though sourcing is in Peru the showroom is located in the garment district of New York. The Show Room Director and Kent State Alumna is Alexis Stuart. She has worked for DKNY, Michael Kors, Joseph Abboud, Elie Tahari, and Liz Claiborne as the Director of Merchandising. 

The company that I intern with has a similar showroom. We specialize in knits, sweaters, and wovens but World Textile Sourcing specializes in just knits. For a client they provide samples which cuts out a lot of the work for the client. The client does not have to worry about the initial design, product development, finding the sources, or finding a production factory. This work is all done prior through WTS. The client will find that the quality will always be consistent. Also it looks good for a client when WTS practices sustainability. This means they can market that a product is sustainable or that it was sourced from an Alpaca in Peru. It makes a garment special.  

It was a nice change to hear advice from an experienced alum of Kent. I have always thought about that it would be like having a career in the fashion industry while also having a family. She reassured us that if it is your passion it is doable. This was something that no one ever gives advice on because most people I talk to are right out of college. Before entering college I talked with two family members who studied fashion merchandising. They both had fashion industry jobs right out of college. However once they met their spouse and had kids they  moved back to ohio and became stay at home moms. This made me very nervous because those are two things I don’t want happening to me. Everyone is also always talking about how networking is so important. She touched on how our classmates are our best networks. This is something that I had never thought about. When I think of networking I always think of meeting someone new. I never think of people I already know. These past years at Kent I have came across some amazing designs, work ethics, and entrepreneur idea from my classmates. I have realized how amazing my classmates are and hope to keep my relationships throughout the years. Maybe one day we will be working together! She assured us that it is okay to move around from one department to another. Having experience in multiple departments such as sales to product development is helpful to a company because you have a bigger understanding as an employee.

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Coterie

Coterie is a french word meaning a group of people who share a common exclusive interest/taste. Last semester I was able to attend Premiere Vision in Paris. PV is the world’s largest textile trade show. After watching the video I am very excited about attending the Coterie trade show. The difference between the two trade shows is that PV is textile and Coterie is garments. Meaning that what I was in PV was fabric and textile samples. Coterie has the full finished garment.

The speaker we sat in on was discussing how amazon wants to break into and take over ecommerce in the fashion industry. Even though personally I do not shop online, I think they will achieve this well very soon.

I like the openness of the trade show. The big space is so fascinating. The concept is to show others everything about your brand in hopes that your small space will catch someone’s eye who is passing by. Collectively brands are showing others the trends that their company is producing.

Paper Crown

There was hardwood floor and a white tiles wall. Mannequins were utilized and placed next to a chair and side table with flowers and decorations.  The visual merchandising was very cohesive and successful. There were pink, orange, white, black, and slate grey solids. Stripes and plaids were mixed in as well by color. I chose this brand because the showroom looked like a little boutique.

 Current Elliot

The floor was covered with large rugs and the wall were metal. The front of the showroom had a chair and bookcase filled with decorations. The showroom was filled with flowers hanging on the wall with lights strung. It almost felt like a living room. The visual merchandising was placed heavily in the front of the showroom to pull people in and it works. The clothing colors were dark and rustic which fit with their metallic walls. I chose this brand because of the visual merchandising.

Kooples

There was a minimalism effect with a black floor and white walls. The clothes did the talking in their showroom.  The visual merchandising gave off an edgy vibe. I was drawn to their showroom because of the contrast of the colorful clothes against the white walls. There were mostly black and white pieces. This was offset with the color pop of red. Red was everywhere in this showroom along with suede and embroidery. I chose this brand because I just recently discovered them while I was in Europe.

 La Vie Rebecca Taylor                                                                                                                                   There was a light pastel floral wallpaper. The clothes were hung on a long iron bar that extended across the wallpapered wall. The color of the clothes pulled out the colors in the wallpaper. There were pastel solids such as light pink, light blue, and white. There were also military green and floral patterned pieces. I chose this brand because of the colors. They were light and reminded me of the Coterie print.

Overall I noticed a trend of florals. Which is cohesive to the 70s fashion that is coming back to light. I noticed a lot of 70s prints at PV in the fall.

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Bergdorf Goodman

I have always known about Bergdorf Goodman, and have even watched the documentary. I loved the segment in the movie which went over the visual merchandising in the window displays. Watching the movie doesn’t do the department store enough justice after you walk through the different floors yourself. The company was started in 1899 and the first store as opened in 1928.

Moncler was founded in 1952 and is named after an Alpine town near Grenoble, France called Monestier-de-Clermon. Now the headquarters are located in Milan, Italy. The brand is most known for their down jackets and sportswear. The company ran into counterfeit problems so now when you decide to purchase online there is a verification code which shows authenticity.   

It was nice to hear from a recent alumna from the fashion school. Her story showed us that it pays off to network and that you never can predict the future. She got the job from talking to one of the company’s she visited while on study tour. This shows that this class and in general just studying at the NYC studio is so beneficial. She also only found out she got the job a week in advance from graduation. Heading into graduation without a job is a scary thought. My parents were concerned when I didn’t have an internship a month in advance before moving here to NYC. It just shows how quickly this industry moves. I learned that I must establish more connections and follow up with them when heading towards graduation. However, it seemed like she look the first job that was thrown her way. I have never been one to settle for something. Of course I would way my options when offered my first job. I’ve learned here at my internship that I must really enjoy what I do and who I do it with to end the day happy. If the first job I was offered not something I would be interested in, I might try and find something else that would truly start my career in an enjoyable path.

It was definitely very cool that she is able to work with celebrities but even as a brand representative she still does sales floor work. After working in retail for 5 long years, I don’t think I would ever be able to graduate then go back to selling on the floor. I’ve found that I am much better in a corporate setting.

The brand I visited was Oscar de la Renta. When I think of Oscar de la Renta I think of celebrities in gowns down the red carpet. I found gowns in a room with along with other designer gowns however they had their own showroom. Their showroom was filled with fashion week RTW. After walking through every floor in Bergdorf’s I noticed that their showroom was smaller and more intimate. It was as if you were walking into a personal walk in closet. The garments were placed together in groups based on a color story. The colors of the wall and the other decorations were very simple. There was nothing flashy like the the other designers. There was a desk in the middle of the room for the sales clerk with two chairs for customers. The setup was like an office. There were minimal mannequins along with the minimal decor. I would describe everything as an intimate experience because of the small simple setting. I would say this is more of an unsuccessful approach. I am very interested in visual merchandising and I tend to be drawn into stores that utilize visuals. I believe that they would rather bring customers into their store with the name on the wall… Oscar de la Renta.

The product presentation in Bergdorf Goodman did maintain Oscar de la Renta’s identity and integrity. The brand was presented as sophisticated and upscale. The ideal target customer for Bergdorf Goodman and Oscar de la Renta was represented in the product selection. There were clean lines, monochromatic (mostly solid) colors with monochromatic prints/forals, and timeless fabrics.

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Aden + Anais

Aden + Anais was started by Australian Raegan Moya-Jones. The idea for her company started when she couldn’t find muslin swaddle blankets for babies like in her home country. Raegan introduced the first muslin swaddle blanket to the United States in 2006. She believes that the muslin material provides breathability, natural give, softness, and durability. Her company brings simplicity into parents. Many products can are versatile and have multiple purposes. Safety is important to the company. Everything follows multiple tests procedures including being tested by Raegan’s four daughters. Lastly, AA provides expression. There is a story behind each pattern with a modern aesthetic, and iconic prints.

 Aden + Anais is now available in 65 countries. Raegan believes that what their company produces is important however she has created a relaxed and comfortable work environment. “We’re not curing cancer, folks. We’re just making baby blankets, so we might as well have some fun while we do it” says Raegan.

 It was very insightful being able to talk with multiple departments. Sarah from HR discussed what she looks for in a potential employee. She said that resumes with experience and extra circular activities are what stand out the most. This advice was helpful and reassuring. “Investment into employees is an investment into a company,” said Sarah. This quote was really nice to hear. I’m learning with my internship that I must really love the company that I am with because I will be with them majority of the week. I will keep this quote in mind when I start my career search after college.

 Hearing Jo talking about who, what, and how being key factors in marketing was something I have heard before in my marketing class. Sometimes in class you start to wonder if any of the basics will actually apply to real world experience. This is the perfect example that everything we learn is truly preparing us.

Nicole touched on the safety aspect of the company. There are tests run on everything, including a 15 pound pull force. This was very similar to Osh Kosh B’Gosh and their tests. Nicole also talked about how she started as in intern. Stay positive, be friendly with everyone, be eager to find a new project, and always help with something even if it doesn’t apply to your position were her key tips for being a good intern. This advice came at the perfect time. During this week at my sales internship I was asked if I could sew, and I really only know how a little bit. I was then asked to hand sew in our labels into a whole rack of clothing. It was very frustrating and time consuming. I was also very confused as to why they didn’t ask the design intern. After 3 hours worth of sewing I wanted to call it quits when 6pm rolled around, but I remembered what Nicole said. I ended up staying later and finishing the task. They were very appreciative for my help and I realize now the importance of always saying yes!

Being a successful entrepreneur can seem very glamorous. However, Raegan touched on the hardships that you don’t always hear about. She mentioned that it can be very hard to access capitol, and you must teach yourself a lot. In the beginning you must do it all yourself. The advice she gave with this is to always ask for help. This advice not only applies to work, but also in general life.

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Create A Marker

Paul Cavazza is very passionate about the fashion industry. He grew up in his grandmother and mother’s sewing factories. He then wanted to pursue his passion at F.I.T to further his education in the industry. He is very proactive and helped start “SAVE THE GARMENT CENTER” campaign. This is where production is wanted to be brought back into the United States, specifically the garment district. Rag & Bone left a friendly testimonial on the Create A Marker website. They let others know that their business started with help from Create A Maker and over the past 13 years have provided only professional first class service. Paul said that when he first started this company it was the third or fourth in the city. Now Create A Marker is the largest grading/marking company in the greater New York City area.

I learned more about the grading/marking industry while in field experience than I have in class. Create A Marker has 150 clients. It doesn’t matter the price point of the garment, designer garments to Walmart garments can be graded and marked at this company. Paul works directly with the production manager or pattern maker from the client company. Create A Marker produces around 40 patterns a day, with a 2-3 day turnaround. It takes about 2-3 years to learn how to grade and mark. You must love math Paul said. There is a lot of adding and subtracting fractions and decimals. When I asked about the backgrounds of his employees he said that majority of them specialized in accounting or architecture. This is a great reminder that there are more jobs in the industry than just fashion merchandising and design.

Paul also touched on vanity sizing. Even though 99% of the time there is a 2” difference between sizes in the US, it is up to the designer as to what and where they want their grading to start. Paul brought out a mannequin to show how vanity sizing has progressed over the years. The mannequin was a size 10 from 1998. In current times, that same mannequin is considered a size 4.

Paul said that fit is the most important thing when it comes to the fashion industry. I agree with that statement. If a garment doesn’t fit then I don’t buy it. I also find a lot of garments that don’t fit more than do fit. So when I find that garment/brand that fits perfectly I become a loyal customer. Create A Marker’s main job is to make sure the garment they are working on fits correctly throughout all sizes. Paul said there is a balance that one must understand in the garment. When the jean pant is graded up a size, the back pocket must also be graded up a size. The basic description of grading is taking a sample size then adjusting it smaller or larger on a set inch scale. If the company is given a medium, most likely create a market will grade the garment 2” down and up to fulfill an extra small, small, medium, large, and extra large size run.

Marking is completely different than grading. Being a marker is like working a puzzle piece. A marker has the pattern pieces digitally on the computer along with the size of the fabric. They must then place the pattern pieces in the fabric like a puzzle to minimize fabric waste. The fabric use must be over 50% but 75-85% is the goal. If a 50% can not be reached then it is brought up to the designer. For example, one designer decided to make scarves out of leftover fabric to build their fabric usage over 50% so there was no loss of money.

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Osh Kosh B’Gosh

The first I wanted to know about Oshkosh B’Gosh before going was what the origin of the company name. The name sounded like it was European. I ended up finding that it was created in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. I also learned that the famous bibbed overalls were first made for adults and not children. The overalls were functional work wear for those working on the railroad and farming. OshKosh eventually left the adult market and switched to only children’s wear. Then merging with Carter’s in 2005, creating the largest retailers for children’s wear.

Simon mentioned that when you ask the public, 97% knows the OshKosh B’Gosh name. This speaks highly of the brand. Everyone in the company stressed the importance of heritage. They want the clothes to have an authentic yet modern feel. To achieve this goal, during the design process Simon enforces the designers to hand paint everything. This is then turned digital.

The company also supports girl empowerment. They don’t stereotype the girls clothing. In the graphic tee area we saw many examples. There were graphic tees with dinosaurs and space related graphics because girls like these subjects too! The graphic tee designer should us how one sample will evolve into something a little different each year. I asked what happens to the sample that changed and not developed. She said that the samples not developed will go into a sample sale in the office where employees can purchase them for a few dollars. Then the money collected will go to a charity which benefits children.

Understanding the design process is very important. All of the designers talked about their relationship with their merchant. It’s important to get along and understand each other's work. The merchants have to understand that the designers are creative and they are passionate about their ideas. The designers have to understand that the merchants are coming from a business standpoint and need the clothing to sell. This is great advice to keep in mind as one day I will have to work alongside a designer. One way that the company develops new ideas and to compete with other brands is shopping trips. OshKosh sends employees all over the world to find new inspirations. They find samples and try to reinvent them. Simon left our meeting with saying, “Do what you love.” I find this very important because this industry is very time consuming and is important that you are passionate about the work you do.

When working in children’s fashion compared to adult fashion, the structure is the exact same. Everything translates from the beginning steps to the very end steps. They even watch adult trends. Even though the structure is the same there are some differences. Adult trends take time to trickle down into children’s wear. There is also the additional step of safety checks. Every piece of the garment is placed in a choking device. This is important for small findings such as buttons, and pompoms etc. There is also a pull test where 22lbs will pull on a piece of the garment to test is it can rip off. If the garment does not pass these tests then it can not be developed. The importance of safety is very high for OshKosh because no child should be harmed because of one of their pieces of clothing. This would hurt the brand name. Even though the clothing is made for children to wear, the clothing is not targeted to the children. The mother and grandmother are the ones being targeted because they are the ones purchasing the clothing.

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AEO

Whenever I want to research a company or a professional the first place I go to find information is LinkedIn.I wasn’t surprised by how much experience Chad has, but where is prior experience took place. I was happy to see that he first started in retail management then worked his way over and up the corporate chain. I was also pleased that he first started in Columbus, Ohio. It is comforting to know that if you get a fashion industry job in Ohio you don’t always get sucked into living in Ohio for the rest of your life. Both Chad, Kimberly, and my professor Ann are all great examples that you can start in your home state and then still end up in New York City. I was surprised by the mix of companies Chad has worked for. AEO, Abercrombie, and Hollister are all very similar with the same target market. However, he also spent time with Coach and URBAN. I spent many years as a customer of AEO. For awhile it was the only store I purchased my clothes from. I do not tend to walk into the store that much anymore. Not because I do not like their clothing but more so that my style has changed. I still believe in the store and what they stand for!

I learned that networking is very important in this industry. Both Kimberly (SVP/GMM Women’s Merchandising) and Robin (Don’t Ask Why) had worked with Chad Kessler previously at other companies. This helped with their transition to AEO. They knew that they worked well with each other. No matter who I come in contact with during my internship or in future jobs I must always keep good relationships with my coworkers. They may know of another opportunity and pass it along to you or they could follow you to a new company. I think this idea applies to any industry in general. I learned that being global president, Chad Kessler, is involved across the board throughout the company. He oversees international affairs, merchandising, customer relations/service, marketing, creativity, and so much more. However, his leadership style is down to earth and he is involved into the depth of the company. He doesn’t just care about if the company does well, he also cares about the internal affairs of the company. He will personally meet with merchandising assistants and discuss what is going on currently.

        Our meeting and tour sparked my interest and I will be applying to their internship program for summer 2017 among other companies. Besides the point of AEO being a good company, they way the employees can express themselves shows that it’s a good company to work for. They love who they are working with, the space they are working in, the products they are producing, and the values/message the company is conveying. They encourage each other and allow everyone to have a voice. I was also amazed with store set up in the basement for the visual merchandising team. I believe that I want to go into visual merchandising and so seeing this space was very exciting.

AEO takes pride in their penetration on the jean market. Chad Kessler said their jeans provide the tools for everyday life. This is very true. Even though not many of my friends still shop at AEO, they still do for jeans. They provide extended sizes as well as different lengths. Their jeans are durable and comfortable. This aspect of their company gives them a competitive edge.

AEO has been going on one year without a prominent brand logo on their apparel. They are not the only company that has undergone this change. All competitors have gone through a rebranding issue. This is because no one wants to represent a brand that loudly. However, customers do want to represent and be represented by positive messages. AEO has implemented two large campaigns to stay relevant to their customers. The campaigns are called Don’t Ask Why and #ican. These two campaigns show their customers that when you express yourself, real life happens. I believe that the company saw how well customers were reacting to Arie and their strategy of promoting that everyone and every size is beautiful.

The logo served as one of the biggest marketing tools. When you wore a shirt with the giant eagle across the chest you were a walking billboard. Therefore, the  way AEO markets to their customer is being is changing. Chad mentioned that there is 50% less mall traffic within the past six years, which was another large marketing tool. The company is staying relevant to its target market (15-25 years old) through going digital. AEO is using social media such as instagram, twitter, and their app. Another tactic is focusing on out of home marketing such as billboards, advertisements in subway stations, etc. especially in larger cities. To keep loyal customers they are relaunching their loyalty program.

This weekend my roommates and I explored the SoHo area. While in SoHo we visited the Arie Pop-up shop!! It was the biggest Arie store I’ve been in. The best part of the store the visual merchandising displays!

[cranfordnyc-blog]

Week 1

I have visited New York many times before as a tourist. Of course I visited the main historic sites such as the 9/11 Memorial, Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty, Times Square etc. I also have spent plenty of time shopping around 5th and Madison avenues. I always thought these avenues of shopping were the garment district. I thought the large selection and variety of stores in this city is what makes New York City one of the fashion capitols of the world.

I have learned now that what really makes New York City one of the biggest fashion capitols of the world is the amount of fashion headquarters, show rooms, and design studios based in New York City.  I now realize that the garment district is made up mostly corporate buildings not stores. My internship with NYC Alliance is located on 38th and 7th. So between school and work I am in the fashion district everyday of the week. When work asks me to drop off samples in the area I now feel more acclimated with where I am going because of the sites I found during this scavenger hunt. For example I dropped some samples off and was told the building was near Bryant Park. I then knew exactly which location I needed to walk towards.

Three things that are memorable to me after this class are the fashion walk of fame, the large button, and mood. When I get out of the 42nd street subway station I walk the fashion walk of fame to my work. I did not realize what the gold plates stood for at first because when walking to working the plates are upside down. Right now I am just in the beginning stages of my career in fashion. It is nice to look done and see the names of influential people who once started where I am now. Then on my walk home to the subway station after a long day at work I can read the names and inspiration. I also walk by the large button everyday on my way to work. The fun fact of 5 buttonholes spelling out F for fashion is something I’ll be able to inform others off of the top of my head. When my family and friends when they visit and I show them around the garment district to see school and work I can explain the number of buttonholes to them. I had such a fun experience in mood. The workers were all so welcoming. There was an elementary school field trip happening in the store. The children had zip lock bags full of fabric swatches and were running around touching everything. It was like watching a children version of project runway. At the end of their visit they all yelled, “Thank you mood.” I also learned that you can sign up for sewing classes on the bottom floor of the store which I am very interested in learning more about. I know how to hand sew but I do not know how to use a machine. I wish that the merchandise majors were offered a beginners class to sewing. While I am here in the city there is a possibility that when I can find free time I may check out the class.