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decorumdogwalk · 4 years ago

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10 skills I never knew I needed until I adopted my dog

Our dogs, our constant companions, they make us laugh and brighten our day with their antics, I discovered 10 skills that I had, but never knew I needed, until I adopted my dog!

Acrobat

Don’t believe me, try manoeuvring around a sleeping dog, as you reach and stretch, bend and arabesque on one leg trying to keep your balance, all that’s missing as you forward roll is the stick with the twizzle ribbon.

Hurdler

As above but they are laid across the doorway and you have to launch yourself over or risk stepping on them, and let’s face it, we cannot live with the guilt of that. Recognise this, step on the dog “Oh my poor baby, oh I am so sorry, oh how can I make it better, will a treat make it better, yes a treaty??” Step on your partner “Get in the way much?!?”

Fridge Ninja

The joys of attempting to get literally anything from the fridge without alerting your dog, not happening, if you even make the sneak to the kitchen as you carefully open the door, look down, there they are, with their puppy dog eyes, giving you the “haven’t been fed for a week” look.

Spelling Bee contestant

The art of holding a conversation where whole words are not used, “I was thinking about taking the D-O-G for a W-A-L-K” of course, with a canine brain it does not take long to associate W-A-L-K and walk, especially if someone says “Why don’t you just say walk?”, cue your dog having a complete meltdown and you thinking you live with an idiot, human not canine!

Mime Artist

The having the conversation without having the conversation skill, now needed so the mistake of saying or spelling the words does not occur. Desperately trying to let your partner know where you are going without using the words to alert the dog, recreating the moves of the famous French mime artiste, Marcel Marceau.

Game Show Host

Your dog spots something, gorgeously smelly, and like the magnificent sound of Mr Babbage from Family Fortunes you shout “UH UH” now under the starter for 10, you race across “leave it” still going for it “What’s this” still going for it and lastly the heart wrenching “Noooooooooooo”.

Bi-Linguist

Suddenly you not only speak in your own language, but you also speak dog, holding whole conversations with a bemused dog as you work your way through a selection of barks, woofs, whimpers and yaps. So cute, as they look at you, turning their heads from side to side, thinking you have gone completely barking (excuse the pun!)

Meteorologist

“Looks like rain, does it look like rain to you” and as you open the door, you loo down at the dog that would normally race up the garden, off the grid like Lewis Hamilton in a Formula One race, who now suddenly thinks the garden is lava, definitely raining!

Contortionist

Sleeping with your furry friend means you have to learn how to sleep in probably THE most uncomfortable positions ever, because, as we all know, there is an unwritten rule when it comes to a sleeping pet, and that is that you do not, under any circumstances, move them. You do, however, look at them adoringly, make various type of cooing noises and take 697 photos and/or videos of them to share on social media.

Finally

Pet Parent

Now this phrase, and pawrent, I know make lots of people cringe, people accuse those that use the phrase as anthropomorphism, but I do not, I believe that it is the simplest word or phrase to let people know exactly how much of a responsibility taking a companion animal into our home is. You are responsible for every aspect of that living, breathing, feeling animal’s life and should take that responsibility extremely seriously, their health, welfare and happiness is reliant upon you.

Taking a companion animal into our home is a commitment to caring and providing the best life we can.

#national pet month #dogs #npm21 #nationalpetmonth

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decorumdogwalk · 4 years ago

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Dog owners of the World unite (and usually over the strangest things)

How many people recognise this situation? Mid-morning in a meeting, you reach into your pocket and as you pull your hand out a poop bag gently floats to the table. Embarrassed you reach to grab it back without drawing too much attention to yourself, but, too late – everyone has seen this slight mishap but the response is not what you would expect. The strangest things unite us as dog owners, and as you look round the table at your assembled colleagues and peers you note a softening of features, a nod of recognition, as you all head off for your well-earned coffee break you find yourself surrounded, ‘So you have a dog? What breed? Here, this is a picture of my pupstar’. And just like that the ice is broken, people are chatting and laughing, exchanging stories and anecdotes. Wallets and mobile phones are produced, and where once there may have been pictures of smiling spouses and tousle haired children, there are Dalmatians, Dachshunds and French Bulldogs. The proud pawrent who cannot wait to swap recommendations for local favourite walks or dog friendly holidays. Pets are very much a part of our family, whom we dote on, take great pride in, and cannot wait to share.

Social media has given us amazing opportunities to share our pawed and clawed family with a huge audience, we give our pets their own accounts and create whole personas, sharing tales and photos of their daily lives across multiple platforms and developing networks and bonds with a multitude of families across the World, doing exactly the same thing. We love to see how other people and their dogs live, with urbanites fascinated by the rural ramblings of their friends. While the villager is framing picturesque images of their Spaniel in stunning scenery, the townie is sharing shots of their pug in a designer jumper, pawsing at a local café for refreshment.

As well as sharing our lifestyles, we also cannot wait to share our hints and tips, valuable insights we have learned, as self-styled trainers and coaches, especially when it comes to some of the behaviours and skills we are working on with our dogs, that friends may not have quite got to grips with. Very early on, my own personal experience with trying to establish recall with our Battersea Rescue dog taught me a great lesson! While walking with a friendly, chatty chap and his dog, he shared with me his tip for instant recall, a squeaky ball – his dog could not resist the sound and would come running from wherever and whatever he was doing. The next day, duly inspired, I bought a selection and began using what I now call the sneaky squeaky tip. However, one thing I learned with this wonderful new tool in my training arsenal, there is a time and a place for everything – and the dog park is neither. With my happy dog off playing with 9 other off lead dogs, recall was proving a challenge, so I deployed the sneaky squeaky, and watched as the other owners, who obviously knew what was about to happen, united in what I can only describe as expectant amusement – at the sound of the squeak, the thunderous advance of paws from 9 very excited dogs was impressive, if a little daunting, the sneaky squeaky had worked wonderfully on every single dog, except my own! While she was still happily off amusing herself with the sights and smells of the park, I was surrounded by the over excited leaping of her new muddy footed pals and then their owners, trying to convince their dogs to ‘get down, or get off or leave’. Note to self, when sharing sneaky squeaky tip advise caution!

It’s not just our experiences we cannot wait to share, it is the toys we have bought, the accessories we use, the equipment we have bought and the successes and failures we have had with each. In the last ten years our relationship with our dogs has changed quite dramatically, as we have easy access to the plethora of information about the ways we build a bond with our dogs, and the incredible developments in training and behaviour, the amazing advances in recognising how dogs learn and how we need to learn not only how to read them and their body language, but how they read us, and the effect that can have on their own behaviour. Canine enrichment and the benefits for your dogs and their general well-being is now one of the fastest growing sources of sharing on social media, people posting and vlogging free and cheap ideas that they have successfully used with their dogs, often modifying and reproducing expensive products currently on the market, for pennies rather than pounds. A shoe box, some treats and toys, your dog’s favourite such as a tennis ball, some scrunched up paper, whether or not you wrap the box and have a game of doggy pass the parcel or just present it as a challenge to open, your dog is mentally challenged and gets to revel in the goodies inside. Quick, easy and fun. Even a handful of your dog’s kibble in a cardboard tube with the ends folded shut can provide a simple way to challenge their mind at breakfast or dinner time.

But it is ultimately in our day to day lives with our dogs, that we truly unite, there is nothing quite like that bonding moment, as you make your way round the park with a happy pooch battling a force 10 gale and lashing rain, in your wellies and your dog walking coat, nodding solemnly at a stranger doing exactly the same thing, occasionally exchanging pleasantries or with a wry smile make a statement, ‘Great weather for ducks, and dogs evidently’. Or, as responsible dog parents, with that pocket poop bag in hand, clearing up after your furry friend and uniting in that moment of the joys of responsible dog ownership.

Or that ultimate final bonding moment, the one that unites us all, the one true thing that unites us as dog owners the most, we all think we have the best dog in the World, and the thing with that is, we are all right!

#dogs #dogs of tumblr #dogblog #pet parent #pawrent

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decorumdogwalk · 4 years ago

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Travelling in the EU with our companion animals (Dogs, cats and ferrets)

Are you dreaming of the adventures you will be able to have, travelling with your companion animal? What great adventures do you have planned? Are you aware of the travel restrictions and requirements to make sure your dreams of adventure can go ahead without a hitch?

From the 1st January 2021, pet passports issued in Great Britain are no longer valid for travel in an EU country or Northern Ireland.

When travelling to an EU country or Northern Ireland, your companion animal needs to be microchipped, they must have a valid rabies vaccination, and, unless you have a pet passport issued in an EU country or Northern Ireland, they will now need an Animal Health Certificate. You need to check the rules of the country you are travelling to for any additional restrictions or requirements in plenty of time before you travel, for instance did you know if you travel directly to Norway you need a tapeworm treatment for your dog, and treatment needs to be administered between 1 and 5 days before travel.

Companion animals must be over 12 weeks to be vaccinated and vaccinations must be given at least 21 days before the first day of travel.

Is it important to note that these requirements also apply to assistance dogs.

You will need a new Animal Health Certificate EVERY time you travel, if you are a regular traveller keep rabies vaccinations up to date, if you do not travel regularly these will have to be administered for any additional trips.

Your companion animal’s Animal Health Certificate must be signed and issued by a vet no more than 10 days before you travel. If you’ve just moved to a new practice, you’ll need to show proof of microchipping and previous vaccinations, so that your vet can fill out the relevant paperwork properly.

Your Animal Health Certificate is valid for 10 days after the issue date for entry into the EU and Northern Ireland, for 4 months for onward travel within the EU and for four months for re-entry into Great Britain. You’ll need to obtain a new certificate each time you want to re-enter the EU and Northern Ireland.

You do not need an animal health certificate if you have a pet passport issued in an EU country or Northern Ireland.

When you arrive in the EU and Northern Ireland, you’ll need to pass through a special area known as a Traveller’s Point of Entry (TPE). This will be clearly signposted at all airports, ports and Eurotunnel terminals.

You cannot take more than 5 pets to an EU country or Northern Ireland unless you’re attending or training for a show, sporting event or competition. You’ll need written evidence of registration for the event when you travel.

All your pets must be attending the event or training, should be over 6 months old and meet all the other requirements for pet travel to that country.

For further advice, if you are travelling to the EU or Northern Ireland.

Pet Travel Scheme helpline [email protected] Telephone: 0370 241 1710 Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 5pm (closed on bank holidays) Call charges apply

For further advice, if you are travelling to a non EU country.

You can also contact APHA if you need more information about pet travel to a non-EU country.

Animal and Plant Health Agency [email protected] Telephone: 03000 200 301 Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 5pm Call charges apply

*Correct at time of being published 13/1/2021*

**Information provided is not intended as a substitute for veterinary help or advice**

***Always check individual requirements and restrictions for the country you are travelling to***

#travel #travelwithpets #dogs #dogs of tumblr

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decorumdogwalk · 10 years ago

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Bringing your new dog home

So you have arrived to collect your puppy/dog, you have arranged a secured, safe way for them to travel (as required by law in the UK) to your home.

Teaching your puppy/dog starts now, how are you travelling? Have lots of treats to start that positive association of being with you, in an alien environment - offer your puppy/dog lots of encouragement - big smiles, happy voice and for every positive action - reward, reward, reward .. you got in the car *yayy* you got in the crate or got secured in your harness *yayy* ... we started the car *yayy* ... while travelling talk to your puppy/dog, they need to hear you so they learn your voice, and to comfort them.

Travelling with another family member will help build bonds and mean that there is always someone to keep the positive associations going and provide comfort for a frightened puppy/dog.

You are home, now what ...

Toilet Training

Toilet Training starts now, as soon as you are home, take your puppy/dog straight to where you want them to toilet - if it is in the garden take them to the right spot, if you live in a flat or apartment take them to where they will be toileting - if you are taking them outside of your home environment be very careful, your puppy/dog will not have completed their vaccination programme, it is your job to make sure they do not come in to contact with an unvaccinated dog. It is also your job to make sure they are safe, you want every meeting with new dogs to be social friendly, positive experiences to prevent any problems later on.

Your puppy/dog views your home as what is their den and what is not theirs, especially if they are crated or restricted access - if they have spent the right amount of time with their mother, they know toileting in the den area is a no-no, everywhere else is fair game! Vigilance is your friend, learn the signs that your puppy needs to ‘go’ and get them as quickly as you can to their toileting area. When they pee or poo we are going to partyyyy ... Big smile while they do the right thing, quiet but happy voice so as not to interrupt the process and when they finish *yayyy* yes yes yes good dog, good girl/boy we are having a party and you are invited, here is your reward! Why the happy voice? In a recent study it has been proved that just by viewing the top half of a person’s face, a dog is so in tune to humans, that they know if you are happy or angry so your expression when they do anything good should always be open, bright and happy.

Their space and routine

Once they have toileted we are going to let them explore their environment, where their bed is, where they will be eating, their new toys, their new family, with enough space to investigate but supervised in case there is anything we have missed or to be aware of a need to toilet - up to 3 months your puppy may need to toilet every 30 - 45 minutes, this can be extended by 5 minutes after 3 months to help them control their bladder and bowel.

Introduce their routines gradually, personally I do not believe in free feeding, having a regular routine for feeding means you know straight away if you have a poorly dog who is off their food, it is also a good time to have a mini teaching/bonding session and you know how much your puppy/dog is eating. Routine does not mean regimented, in fact, I would suggest a fairly flexible attitude around time, due to the changes with the clocks, nothing worse than a dog who is used to being fed at 5 who every year spends a week getting used to being fed at 6. Routine can be breakfast when we get up, dinner after we have been for our walk and settled down, and for puppies lunch after we have been out for a middle of the day toilet and play. Health and welfare routines, such as teeth cleaning, grooming, etc should be introduced gradually over the first week - again with BIG smiles, happy voices and lots and lots of praise and rewards. However you should start with touching your puppy/dog’s ears, feet, nails, eyes, looking at their teeth and gums immediately so we have a dog who can be handled quite happily by vet and groomer again, smiles, happy voices, treats ...

The lessons you teach in the next year, will help to shape the dog that you have with you for the rest of their life, breed and individual personality decide who your puppy/dog is and how they learn, but you shape the social well behaved community member they become. The adult dog you want in your life requires 4 things from you: Time, Patience, Consistency and Love.

Name

The first lesson - teaching your puppy/dog their name. Call their name, reward, when they look at you say their name, reward ... in my experience within 48 hours you should be able to say your puppy/dog’s name and they will turn, as soon as they do - reward - and give a little *yayy* you have started teaching your puppy/dog.

Sit

The first behaviour we teach our dogs, mine know you want something- you sit, anything you want - food, toys, treats, fuss, the pre-requisite is a bottom on the floor, it’s just good manners.

Down

Down - laying down, whether on your bed, in your crate or generally, quietly laying down is a good basis for many other calm behaviours, as well as starting points for skills, such as camouflage crawl (which I will explain in another blog post)

Stay

Stay is an important behaviour to learn, it is also a great way to teach your puppy/dog to be still when you are moving away, a step at a time to begin with but eventually to being out of sight - briefly to begin with, another room, round a corner and a starter for great learning games such as hide ‘n seek. This will also help with preventing separation anxiety developing.

Wait/Stop

Wait is not stay, wait could be a life saver (or stop if you prefer) it is a great game to play with your puppy/dog in a safe environment such as your garden to begin with, running and then stopping suddenly and getting them to do the same - which also builds their attention and focus on you.

Focus

Different ways of gaining and keeping your puppy/dog’s attention on you. We want you to be the centre of your puppy/dog’s world and for them to be looking to you for everything. Focus is an instant request for them to look at you - build in duration to create a longer lasting behaviour, which we can use to keep the attention of our puppy/dog when we need to.

Recall

Recall with your new puppy is easy, you are all they know in the beginning, so you are their focal point and a BIG smile with wide open arms and a happy ‘Come’ or ‘Here’ will work with minimum effort, however as they gain confidence there are so many distractions, it can become a competiton that you have to win, therefore the foundations you start here are what you will build on to ensure you have a reliable recall.

Off

Puppies are curious - everything is interesting, they have an unquenchable zest for life, and if there is nothing threatening, they will get into everything and onto everything. You need to have clear ideas of where your puppy is allowed and where they are not, using Off not Down (an easy mistake people make and then can’t understand why their puppy/dog will not lay down when asked) as your behaviour cue to stop your puppy/dog from getting into/onto something you don’t want them to.

Four feet on the floor

Important lesson to learn for any dog, because your puppy is going to grow, and depending on the breed, he/she could grow to be big. He/she could grow to be dangerously big for vulnerable people, and a dog that jumps could get you into serious problems if someone feels threatened and they report your puppy/dog under the Dangerous Dog Act (remember someone only has to feel under threat of being bitten to make a complaint) so as gorgeous, and cute, and lovely, it is to be met by a high jumping exuberant bundle of fur - we want four feet on the floor before we make a fuss and say ‘Hi’, they will settle down if you go about your business, taking off coats, putting keys in their spot, whatever and as soon as there are 4 feet on the floor, greet your puppy. This will also help with preventing separation anxiety, calm entrances and exits mean it is no big deal you are leaving, you will be back - the World still turned while you were gone.

Walking on a loose lead

You want your walks to be a pleasant experience for everyone, walking at your side on a loose lead is a very important skill to learn. Loose lead walking prevents potential damage to their trachea if using lead/collar or bones/joints if using lead/harness. Keep their focus on you, rewarding for a nice, calm trot at your side, a good pace will help to keep your dog’s focus on you, throwing in plenty of turns and twists, changes of direction will help keep their attention on you.

Socialisation

Seeing other dogs/people is VITAL in your puppy/dogs development, you want a well rounded, social adult - and this can be achieved by making sure you see lots of different dogs/people in all sorts of safe, social situations. It is not necessary to meet everyone, we want our puppies/dogs to focus on us and want to spend time with us, so we will meet people and dogs but we want to keep these interactions under control, meet a dog, say hello for a count of 3 and move on. Always ask other pawrents if your puppy/dog can safely interact with theirs, between 8 and 16 weeks every experience is going into the bank of memories, shaping your future adult dog - be responsible, be safe.

Go see

For me, this is an essential behaviour for your puppy/dog to learn - you want your puppy/dog to look to you to know if this situation is safe for them and that they can go and interact with this person/dog/body of water, knowing that if you say Go see means they can and they will be safe and have a positive experience it takes a lot of trust, getting this right is key in responsible ownership and the development of your puppy/dog into adulthood, in my opinion.

Finally ...

Being alone

I have touched on different life behaviours and skills that will help your puppy/dog develop a healthy attitude to you being out of their sight and preventing separation anxiety, learning through play, having fun while going in and out of your sight is important and being settled with something yummy and long lasting so they don’t even know you are out of their sight is a great tool to use.

I hope you enjoy your new puppy/dog, some final tips

* Time - learning something new takes time, if you are having problems teaching a new behaviour or skill ask yourself - are they physically capable of doing what you are asking? I had a pawrent who was frustrated his puppy could not learn paw - until I suggested that they were too small to lift their massive feet at the moment, they cracked paw at 10 months old. Are you and they clear on what it is you want them to do? One word = one action, clear and concise.

You have a 3-4 second window from the action to the reward so your puppy/dog knows what they have got it right, mark the action with a clicker or marker word such as ‘Yes’, make a fuss of them - pet them and that buys you enough time -even if the reward is in your pocket, you have acknowledged the behaviour or skill. It also gives you a basis for later phasing out regular treat rewarding.

*Patience - learning something new is frustrating, keep sessions short and positive, always start and end with something you know your puppy/dog can achieve. Never get angry, and remember you can say anything you like in your happy voice with a smile - even if its OMG I am going bonkers, why can’t I teach you this??! :)

*Consistency - everyone learns the same word for each action, everyone makes sure they take part in teaching your dog, everyone understands and sticks to the house rules for your puppy/dog. Always use the same word for the same action. Reward often, in the beginning for everything, then every 2, then 5, then 10, then through out their lives - randomly. A dog who doesn’t know when the reward is coming is still engaged.

*Love - I left love until last but it is not because it is any less important, in fact in a recent study it was shown that a dog who is loved - learns! In my opinion, a dog that is loved, who feels safe and comfortable, in a positive, safe, stable environment can only be encouraged to learn.

Good luck ;)

#puppy #puppytraining #dog #dogs of tumblr #dog training

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decorumdogwalk · 10 years ago

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(via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpecvb9Q7QY)

#dogs #dog training #pet care #puppy #puppytraining #dogs of tumblr

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decorumdogwalk · 10 years ago

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Bringing your new dog home

It’s very exciting you have chosen your new dog and you are now getting ready to bring them home, what are the things you need:

Puppy proofing - puppies are excitable and curious, absolutely everything is NEW and WOW ... although they are born with the flight or flight reflex of survival, they do not understand things like choking and electric shock. Take a puppy eye view of your home, and where they are going to be allowed to wander - make sure it is safe for them.

Somewhere to sleep - first decision, what room do you want your puppy/dog to sleep in and do you want your pup to sleep in a bed or a crate?

Where do you want your new dog to sleep? Until toilet training has been successfully and completely achieved this decision could be a vital component in becoming a happy home, the type of bed you are using could also be a contributing factor in this decision:

Crates can be a controversial choice and EVERYONE will have an opinion, the only opinion that matters is your’s and your new dog’s. The benefits of having a crate - dogs like their own quiet space where they can go to relax and nap, a crate can be used to create a den like environment perfectly, it can give a puppy or dog a sense of security, it is a useful place for your dog/puppy to feel safe when new visitors are round and to protect your puppy until a reliable stay has been taught when opening the front door and it is a safe place to leave your puppy/dog while you are out. I cannot stress enough here the importance of positive association crate training, it needs to be a good, safe, happy place for your dog - somewhere they want to go - a puppy/dog who has separation issues can do some serious self harm if they have not received the right association. Make sure the crate is big enough to house your fully grown adult dog, giving room to stretch out when laying down and comfortably stand up - you can create a smaller space inside for your puppy with bedding. Also make sure your puppy cannot hurt themselves on the wire. Never leave your puppy unattended in a crate wearing a collar or collar and lead. Containment in a crate should NEVER be used as punishment.

Bed - whether you use a doughnut bed, a mat type, a pillow type, swaddles of blankets, a bean bag, a plastic/material dog bed ... the list is endless ... this type of bed gives comfort but it also gives free access to your home. If you decide to use this type of bed you may want to consider purchasing a baby gate, (I did - it was invaluable) you can find them very cheaply in charity shops, online or in supermarkets. Using a baby gate gives your puppy/dog space to explore and play, with control over how much of the home they have access to.

Something to eat - Whether you choose to adopt or shop for your puppy/dog their previous carer will be able to tell you what they are currently eating. For a smooth transition for your new family member this should be continued in the immediate future.

Your choices once your dog has made themselves at home are: All meat, all dry/biscuit/kibble, mixed feeding or raw feeding. There are health problems associated with an all meat or all kibble diet, and this is a good subject to discuss with your vet at your dog’s first health check. Raw feeding - this is growing in popularity, I am not able to give an informed opinion at this time, but I am taking a course on raw feeding so hope to be able to share my thoughts later. Personally, I feed my dogs a mixed diet - half grain free high quality meat and half grain free high quality biscuit, the reason I use grain free is that, quite by accident, (reading a q&a in a popular dog magazine I subscribe to) I discovered that my **EBT had a sensitive bowel issue - solved by going grain free.

Something to eat/drink from - Bowls, scatter or slow feeding - more options, more opinions on what is best abound. I have two dogs and they eat differently - my *SBT X has 2 ceramic bowls - one for biscuit and one for meat, my **EBT has a non slip metal bowl in which I combine the two (meat and biscuit). To start with I would suggest 2 bowls - one for food, one for clean, fresh water which should always be available to your dog, make sure this is topped up regularly during the day and changed at least every morning. As your puppy grows or your new dog settles, you may find that you need to change their feeding bowl to suit their needs, especially if they eat too quickly or if they have problems through health or age. Every meal time I give my dogs part of their meal in a Kong - I love Kongs! They have a bottom layer of fresh meat - ie chicken, lamb, beef, sausage, etc which is basically a couple of pinches diced to the size of my smallest finger nail. Then I fill the Kong with their biscuit and seal the hole with their meat. It slows down their eating and stimulates them mentally and physically, making their meal time more enjoyable!

Treats - an essential part of your teaching routine, there are lots of puppy specific treats on the market as well as treats for special diets, etc. I combine home made and shop bought. You can use daily meal biscuit in your teaching later, but when you first start teaching your puppy/dog new behaviours and skills we want to optimise their receptiveness to learning and make their experiences really positive.

Something to play with - Toys are crucial in your puppy/dog’s development and your relationship, play is a great way to learn and bond. Age appropriate toys are available online and in store. Make sure they have something to cuddle, something to chew, something to chase and something to stuff with gooey loveliness. Tug of war is a great game to relax your puppy/dog also to teach take it and leave it/drop it, however caution should be used with young puppies making sure that the game is gentle so as not to cause problems with developing jaws and loose puppy teeth/growing adult teeth.

Something for walkies - A collar with an id tag, an id tag is essential by law in the UK. A lead - a normal walking lead is essential equipment.

A training lead is a very handy tool for learning recall in a safe way, but is not an essential when your dog first comes home.

An extendable lead - controversy again, they have their supporters because it gives your dog freedom with safety, but too long a lead reduces your control and an extendable lead can give terrible burns if it catches your skin, or theirs.

Harness - Harnesses are great for walking your dog as using a collar and lead can cause serious problems for your dog’s trachea, however for your puppy, whose bones are not fully formed until at least a year old, extreme caution should be used not to exert any weight or pressure. You may wish to start with collar and lead to teach good lead etiquette, such as loose lead walking, but it would be useful if you intend to use a harness to get your pup used to it by letting them wear their harness around the home for regular intervals.

Travelling - Safety is vital when transporting your puppy/dog, crates can be used as long as they are secure and your puppy/dog is not being thrown about inside. Safety car harnesses or universal seat belts can be purchased which use existing seat belt system to ‘plug’ in to. Dog guards can be purchased to prevent your puppy/dog from being able to jump into the car from the rear of the vehicle or into the front from the rear seat.

Grooming - A brush, suitable shampoo, towel and, if you intend to groom them yourself - scissors and nail clippers. Handle your puppy/dog regularly touching their ears, feet and check their teeth every day, this helps get them ready for trips to the vet and/or groomers, it means they are comfortable being handled and will help prevent lots of fear issues. Scissors and nail clippers should be left around in non threatening ways, and when you handle your dog, just touch their nails with the clippers at first and reward, reward, reward - positive association is vital.

Teeth cleaning should be started as soon as possible to get your puppy/dog used to having this done. You will need a toothbrush and dog toothpaste. Dental care is vital in your dog’s health regime.

Poo Bags - Essential for cleaning up after your puppy/dog, to keep your environment and your communities clean and pleasant and also if you don’t want to be fined for not cleaning up after your puppy/dog. When walking your dog always carry poo bags, it demonstrates that you are happy and willing to clean up after your dog. Options at home include bagging and binning (double bagged for everyone’s protection) but there are other options you may want to explore such as dog poo worm bins - an example on the link below:

http://www.earth-essentials.co.uk/prod_details_dogwormeryNEWEE.htm

You have been to collect your puppy/dog and they are ready to investigate their new home ... now, the next step ....

*SBT X is Staffordshire Bull Terrier Cross (No we don’t know with what)

**EBT is English Bull Terrier

#dogs #puppies #pet care #puppy care #dog #dogs of tumblr #puppy

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decorumdogwalk · 10 years ago

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So you want to get a dog ...

After much discussion, you have decided you want to get a dog - but where do you go from there ........... the key to choosing your dog lies in the three R’s - research, research, research!

Be honest with yourself as a family, what breed of dog is going to fit in with your lifestyle - do you run 5 miles a day, do you snuggle up on the couch and watch tv, do you like being out in the fresh air or are you a bit of a home body? Research the breeds that suit ... there are lots of ways you can do this, the links below may be helpful:

http://www.dogadvisorycouncil.com/puppy/

http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/findabreed/

Adopt or shop - rescue centres are struggling to keep up with the amount of dogs being abandoned, through no fault of their own, puppies and adults. Adopting a dog is a very rewarding experience, and you save two lives - the dog you take home and the dog that takes the space. Support will be provided from the rescue centre and your new furry friend will be neutered, micro-chipped and up to date on all their worm/flea treatments. Be warned, once you visit a rescue centre, meet the staff and the animals in their care, find your match, talk through the adoption process and take your new family member home the rewards can be immeasurable (I am biased) and if you can save two lives, well maybe you can save four ... take a visit to your local centre, follow them on facebook and/or twitter and see how you can help, even if you decide not to rescue - there are other ways you can support them and still make a difference, still save lives - even if you share a post for a foster/permanent home being needed, you have contributed to changing that life.

If rescue is not the route for you, what next ... the first thing is to find a reputable breeder. The horror stories of puppy farming are everywhere on social media, two of the organisations I follow are Pupaid and Cariad, and they are fighting to make a difference.

https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/whats-happening/issues-campaigns/puppy-smuggling/advice-on-getting-a-puppy

It is vital that you see your puppy with his/her mum. Puppies who have been with their mum until the right time to be homed have been given the very best start in life, learning the important lessons that being with their family can provide. Many KC registered breeders have committed to the puppy plan, and this is being used by The Dogs Trust in Malta with huge success.

http://www.thepuppyplan.com/

Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions, such as health checks, a good breeder will ask you lots too to make sure their puppy is going to a good home. Never doubt your instincts and don’t let your heart rule your head, if something doesn’t feel right - walk away.

http://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/dogs/puppy/getpuppysmart

Take your time and find the right dog for you and your family, this is a lifelong commitment of which the first year will be incredibly challenging, especially for the first time you become a pawrent.

Decision made, dog/puppy chosen, collection arranged ... now, the next step

#dogs #puppies #buying a puppy #puppy advice #pet care #dog #dogs of tumblr #puppy care

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